To complete the rear suspension the top camber links need assembling. These are relatively small diameter Hudy spring steel items - but should take all the abuse you can throw at them. The adjustment area is off-set to one side and this is supposed to be put to the outside of the car in every instance to allow easier adjustment. This does mean one side of the car will need adjusting in a different direction to the other - no big deal though.
The manual suggest creating the rear links with a gap of 46mm between the rod ends - but I found it to be closer to 36mm. It turned out to be a misprint in the manual that is rectified on the supplimental instruction sheet - as with any kit, it's always wise to check all the paperwork first - even the mighty Xray aren't perfect!
To finish the rear end off for now, a chunky wing mount needs assembling. This comes in 6 parts and is made from a tough plastic.
The bracing 'tubes' between the two main halves aren't keyed so need holding with the supplied spanner whist tightening which is just a little fiddly. The tops of the wing mount are adjustable, with various holes to move the wing up or down, fore or aft.
The wing mount comes in six main parts - Assembly isn't as straight forward as it looks - the bridging posts between the two halves aren't keyed so need holding with the supplied spanner.
Steel nyloc nuts are inserted to give the wing a secure mounting.
The front suspension assembles in a similar way to that on the rear. The front most hinge pin block gains a thin steel brace which is pressed into the plastic pivot-block before assembling onto the gearbox - this should help deal with any heavy frontal impacts.
A thin steel support plate is used in the front hinge pin block.
Hudy spring steel bushings push into the castor block
The steering blocks have moulded-in metal inserts to ensure a strong long-lasting build
The front steering blocks on the 808 are huge and the spring steel CVD's assemble into these just as they did on the rear. The steering block pivots inside the 10degree castor block on some spring steel inserts which make things very free but very sturdy. These castor blocks themselves also pivot on the suspension arms using similar steel inserts that push into the ends of the front suspension arms to allow the chunky M4 screws to secure the block in place and pivot freely.
