How to end up with an X5

[DaveG28]

Hi all,

Which is the best donor car for the X5, XX4 or XXX4 and which editions etc?

Also, couple of quick questions:

1. Is it easy to still get Losi parts for the bits which stay original?
2. Am I right in thinking cells is 4+2?
3. Other than the xx4/xxx4 etc donor car and the conversion, what is needed to get the X5 working top notch?

Cheers all,

Dave

[Cockerill]

The best donor car is the XX4, what edition depends on what spec X5 you want, but I would say go for a XX4WE.

As far as I am aware every spare is still available that you will need.

Yup it is 4+2 cells.

I would get the shock tower strengtheners, a one-way (personal preference) and upgrade the standard xx4 front drive shafts to CVD's.

Hope this helps

[bigred5765]

just to echo what tom said, xx4we was are choice of donor car,make sure you use the double pulley tensioner it's a big improvement on std single one, and we prefer to run the xx4 layshaft pulley. personnel pref on the last one,not had any real probs on losi bits.and the shock braces are worth there weight in gold imho,

[DaveG28]

Can the XX4's be found anywhere to get as a donor car?

If not how much difference does it make going for the XXX4?

Reason I ask is I know where I can get a XXX4 for £160 in the states, but only seen an XX4 in one place, @£250ish!

[Cockerill]

Yeh a XXX4 can be used, but you will need the XXX4 - X5 conversion kit which is an extra £110 at DMS Racing. The XX4 is normally used as it has the same suspension, steering, shocks, diffs, etc as the X5. Whereas the XXX4 shares less parts with the X5.

You don't necessarily need a new kit to convert, and XX4's can usually be picked up quite cheap second hand. XX4's are quite hard to come by new as I *think* Losi has stopped making a kit, but still sell all the parts.

[DaveG28]

Cheers guys, some stuff to mull over there, its the squared kit which is newer yeah?

Quite tempted if the parts are available still!

[Cockerill]

Yeh the squared kit is the newer one. I don't think Losi has discontinued any XX4 parts so they should still all be available.

[Darren Boyle]

Definately agree with Tom there, the XX4 has so much more in commom with the X5 so the "XX4 conversion" (XFK012) is £110 less (as Tom said) at £129.95, add that to a reasonable condition used XX4 (£120/150) and you are looking at a resonable price, PLUS a lot of unused XX4 parts with a re-sale value for you to recover some money too.

[Cockerill]

Darren, can you confirm that all the XX4 parts needed are still available from Losi/Horizon?

[bigred5765]

i have a almost new xx4we if your interested pm me

[Darren Boyle]

Darren, can you confirm that all the XX4 parts needed are still available from Losi/Horizon?

They are indeed mate, in ample supply at the moment too.....no shortages on anything (touch wood)

[Paul_Sinclair]

Everything said above is pretty much spot on, just thought I could add some insight.

When we first conceptualized the X - 5 back in mid-2003, XX4's were easily available for pretty cheap. So that's what the X - 5 was really designed to use. We only made the "XXX4" conversion kits because customers asked us to. To make the kit, we just took the cost of the regular "XX4" conversion kit and added our cost on all the extra parts we had to include.

The "squared" kits are the newer ones, and improved over the original versions. All X - 5 kits sold now are "squared."

As for how to make the car "top notch"... SHY put together a great comprehensive listing of nearly everything you could do to the car here: http://www.ymr.no/X5tuning.htm (http://www.ymr.no/X5tuning.htm).
The things I would recommend:
Suspension stuff
The Associated B2 front brace on the bulkhead and the X Factory caster block screws make the front end close to bomb-proof. Carbon fiber shocktower braces (I only run one on the front; rear towers seem to hold up well for me).
Driveline stuff
The DDP machined gears are nice, but I actually run all three stock pulleys and they're holding up fine. The double-idler pulley kit is no longer available because Losi discontinued the larger H.D. tensioner pulleys the kit was based off of. However, you can acheive much the same effect by just purchasing a second (regular) idler pulley and the longer XXX4 yellow belt (part number A3213; the stock kit uses the XXXS belt A3209). The final driveline thing is to build/install a roller bearing on the front of the drive pulley; its easy to do but hard to explain. See one of the team guys to see what I mean; does anyone have a picture they could post?

That's a lot of information there, I hope it all makes sense? Please, post away if you have more questions or comments!

[YoungChazz]

I'll try not to arouse Jimmy's ire by making this too much of an advert. I simply don't know why anyone with a xx-4 would fail to convert, just from the ease of working on the car.

Chris, Dan, Tom all were immediately one main higher when they switched.

Ellis has won now on two completely different tracks, the Indoor Finals and OzFest, with consistant high National finishes last year and another Indoor Finals win.

OK, enough. Sorry Jimmy...

[Big E]

just to echo what tom said, xx4we was are choice of donor car,make sure you use the double pulley tensioner it's a big improvement on std single one, and we prefer to run the xx4 layshaft pulley. personnel pref on the last one,not had any real probs on losi bits.and the shock braces are worth there weight in gold imho,

I just run the stock single tensioner, works fine. The most work is actually to bullet proof the losi parts such as the towers and front arms. X Factory will have our own strenghteners soon as well to help out.

I run a DDP rear pulley, xx4 drive gear and stock front pulley but I would advise the bearing roller on the drive pulley, that is the only thing you need to stop the belt skipping.

E.

[super__dan]

See this excellent article written by some sort of god like genius...................

http://www.one-ten-rcforums.com/4wdrc/viewtopic.php?id=1540

[bigred5765]

I just run the stock single tensioner, works fine. The most work is actually to bullet proof the losi parts such as the towers and front arms. X Factory will have our own strengtheners soon as well to help out.

I run a DDP rear pulley, xx4 drive gear and stock front pulley but I would advise the bearing roller on the drive pulley, that is the only thing you need to stop the belt skipping.

E.

does the DDP rear pulley help stop belt skip Ellis, and are they much better than the std ones.?? haven't tried them yet, we found that with the wider belt and the double pulley it stopped 90% of the belt skip under hard brakes.never had any probs under acceleration,we did try the roller but left it of when we ran the double pulley, the belt tensioner Dan posted is a god send ,

[YoungChazz]

The length of that post is something to behold. But God-like???

[super__dan]

note my small g Chazz ;)

[SHY]

You're never bored on your spare time when you're hooked on RC...

Here's some "how to's" if you wanna go all the way!

http://www.ymr.no/10ortips.htm

XX4s are easy to find on ebay, no problem!

Btw. if you're thinking X-5. Check out the X-6 as well! The X-5 is very good, fast & easy to maintain. You still can do good with most cars these days. The X-6 is WAY better than all those rear motor cars!!! I've seen the light!!! I don't believe too much in God, but boy do I believe in those Sinclair guys! :D

The best guys in the world will win with any equipment. But us mere mortals really need all the help we can get! :D

[Lee]

I think that thread is just what we have come to expect from Super_dan.

Good stuff though Dan, its a great source of info for anyone who is thinking about or building an x5

[Big E]

does the DDP rear pulley help stop belt skip Ellis, and are they much better than the std ones.?? haven't tried them yet, we found that with the wider belt and the double pulley it stopped 90% of the belt skip under hard brakes.never had any probs under acceleration,we did try the roller but left it of when we ran the double pulley, the belt tensioner Dan posted is a god send ,

Yeah they are better, they also run a little straighter and just last a lot longer.

[SHY]

I run a DDP rear pulley, xx4 drive gear and stock front pulley but I would advise the bearing roller on the drive pulley, that is the only thing you need to stop the belt skipping.

E.

If you then add the dual idler conversion, is that "too much"? Seems like the belt is VERY close to touching itself...

Btw. how about making an "E Speed" kit for that roller? I think people would appreaciate it! (Something that's "bolt on". Maybe with a template/guide as to where to mount it?)

[Lee]

What pulley is it that the belt skips on mostly, surely a bearing that nearly touches the belt whilst the belt is on the pulley would stop the belt from lifting and skipping. Im not sure how easy to do this is though, but it will add zero drag and stop belt skip:)

[Cockerill]

That's exactly what is done Lee. To quote Dan's 'god-like article':

'Belt hold down roller. This too is a really easy mod that’s talked about lots on the forum and I was amazed at how much difference it has made. Basically for the belt to skip on the drive pulley the belt must physically ride up and the teeth become disengaged. By placing a roller bearing in front of the belt, if the belt tries to ride up, the bearing stops it and so the teeth can’t disengage and skip. You set it so that under normal use the bearing isn’t touching the belt causing drag, only when it would skip. I simply made mine by drilling a hole in the chassis ahead of the pulley and mounting a motor bearing on a bolt going into the belt tunnel. I’ve done this mod to a customer’s car in all of about 5 minutes!'

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6161/img3056ui0.jpg

[bigred5765]

Yeah they are better, they also run a little straighter and just last a lot longer.

cheers Ellis will have to give them a try, we had the bearing roller pulley on, i removed it when we fitted the dual pulleys, to see it was or wasn't still needed,will refit and try the rear DDP pulleys,lee it seems to be the drive pulley on the layshaft that skips, but i can make the rear belt skip buy hand,hence why i asked the question on the DDP pulleys.

[DaveG28]

Hi again all,

What's the space for electricals like, ideally I'd be running futaba 2.4 radio. Also does it take normal servo's or just low profiles?

[bigred5765]

plenty of romm for std sized everything on the car, theres some pics on 4wdrc.com heres the link clicky (http://4wdrc.com/tech.htm) check out the gtb installed in x5 theres more than one link

[Paul_Sinclair]

The car is built for standard servo's; to get any real advantage with a low-profile one you'd have to dremel down the mounts for the servo to lower it down, otherwise you'd just create space underneath the servo.

[footey]

when i run the x5 i had a low profile servo in and i run spectrum recivers the really small 1 which fitted under the servo

[super__dan]

when i run the x5 i had a low profile servo in and i run spectrum recivers the really small 1 which fitted under the servo

Which was wired in with god like precision by somebody amazing I assume? ;)

[footey]

thats right dan and u must admit it was really neat and tidy;):D

[Cockerill]

Who did it for you then Shane? :confused:

[super__dan]

It was indeed. I think though if I had a low profile servo I'd cut the mounts and do it low so the steering turnbuckle then mounted off the top of the servo horn and the CoG of the car was lower. I'd prefer to mount the receiver at the back for weight dist, especially when Lipo becomes the norm and we run a stick pack down the RHS of the car!

[super__dan]

Who did it for you then Shane? :confused:

Cough, cough :blush:

[Paul_Sinclair]

Here's a quick pic of how I did the belt roller. The roller's shaft is actually a XX4 CVD front axle, with the round part cut off. The axle is the perfect diameter for a drive bearing, of course, and the little lip holds it on. The two "hat" spacers are just rear axle spacers (That go between the bearings and the drive pin). I just drilled the hole in the chassis by eye and adjusted it (file in or out as needed) as needed. The large "hat" spacers cover up the slightly-oblong hole, and clamp the whole thing tight on the chassis with a regular wheel nut on the end. Probably the hardest thing about doing this is you have to shave down one of the flanges on the drive pulley - just take your time with this and it'll come out fine.

http://www.xfactoryrc.com/paul/PaulS_X5_Lipo_10.jpg

[DaveG28]

With things like the B2 brace, where would be stocking them?

Other than the bearing to stop the belt skipping, how much does it require "DIY" as a car for the extra's, as opposed to stuff that just bolts on?

I am a lazy Fekker, hence the question!!

[grindog]

whats the difference between a standard X5 and the squared?

[Darren Boyle]

Even Chazz and Paul would admit that the X5 is more of a "fiddlers" car than the X6 is, by that I mean you do have to cut, file and dremel a few parts to convert and several mods are pasrt that you adapt or play with to fit, but none of the mods are too stressful and all are easy to implement and the advantages of each are easy to see and understand when you apply them. The main things you probably refer to will be the actual build of the car which will need the use of a dremel or file or similiar (see Jimmys original X5 build review), fitting the front "B2/XXX" front brace, fitting the "Modified Wishbone Kingpins" and adding the belt bearing roller to prevent skip, but that is about all that requires "work" in order to fit. B2 braces BTW are in stock at just £1.55


Differences between the old X5 and the Squared are as follows;

New body with larger space for fitting brushless speedos etc and more cooling holes
Chassis updated/improved/strengthened in 15 places plus a new material. Several minor updates too
New Belt idler bar
"Pro Proto" white lower chassis cover, top "gear cover" and rear diff cover
New mutlicolour X5 Squared logo decals

Thats it........

You can upgrade an older X5 to the latest "squared" with the following upgrade kit - K014 "Higher Power Upgrade" - which includes all of the parts. We currently have these in priced at £49.95 (parts are just over £62 bought seperately)

[DaveG28]

Do you have stock in on the XX4 conversion kit?

[Darren Boyle]

We do indeed..... priced ar £129.95

[Lee]

Will a xx4 one way fit the x5, does it require work or will it not fit at all?

[SHY]

Will a xx4 one way fit the x5, does it require work or will it not fit at all?

The pulley is different, so it won't fit

[DaveG28]

Cheers for the info guys,

I'm happy with dremeling/filing, the only thing I'mworried about is drilling new holes as I don't have a good way of measuring distance etc to get it right! I can handle the belt tensioners (I can use Tamiya eccentric ones to get it right!) but do the other mods require much drilling?

[Cockerill]

The pulley is different, so it won't fit

Depends which one it is. The Losi one fits straight in with the XFactory Pulley. The Apex/Lesro/DC Racing one needs to be modified.

[SHY]

Cheers for the info guys,

I'm happy with dremeling/filing, the only thing I'mworried about is drilling new holes as I don't have a good way of measuring distance etc to get it right! I can handle the belt tensioners (I can use Tamiya eccentric ones to get it right!) but do the other mods require much drilling?

You can download the manual from www.4wdrc.com (http://www.4wdrc.com) - and yes, you only need a hole for the belt tensioner. Other that that it's just dremelling.

See also http://www.ymr.no/10orTips.htm (http://www.ymr.no/10or.htm) for some tech tips

[Lee]

I don't have a good way of measuring distance

I always find a rule or a vernier is handy:confused:

[bigred5765]

Depends which one it is. The Losi one fits straight in with the XFactory Pulley. The Apex/Lesro/DC Racing one needs to be modified.

i just ordered mine from lesro for the x5 direct fit no worries

[Cockerill]

i just ordered mine from lesro for the x5 direct fit no worries

Was that an X5 specific one? My understanding was if you had the XX4 Specific one it would require some modifying to fit the X5 pulley, I could be wrong tho.

[SHY]

i just ordered mine from lesro for the x5 direct fit no worries

I think he meant if you already have a oneway with a XX4 pulley on it. The teeth are different (finer mesh on the XX4) and also the number of teeth.

You must do a very small mod also when installing the Lesro btw http://www.one-ten-rcforums.com/4wdrc/viewtopic.php?id=1328 and Paul's bulkhead mod http://www.4wdrc.com/tech/bulkhead.htm

[SHY]

Was that an X5 specific one? My understanding was if you had the XX4 Specific one it would require some modifying to fit the X5 pulley, I could be wrong tho.

You're right. I've done it, but I'd rather buy a complete one made specifically for the X-5.

[DaveG28]

Right,

Think I am going to take the plunge on one!

Are the "DPP" or is it "DDP" pulleys the ones with Xfactory part numbers?

Ideally the bits needed as extras I'll order in one go from DMS, so you can expect a call tomorrow guys!!

Dave

[super__dan]

Tom is right that the original 'apex' style alloy XX4 one way needs modifying to fit, the flange is tgoo big for starters.

However Lesro do a one way designed to specifically fit the X5 direct, which is buy and fit directly ;)

[SHY]

"#1 ZX5 fan"??? Que pasa hombre?

[bigred5765]

i started of with a xx4, and i tried to modify it to fit i just gave up and bought the lesro one for the x5 direct fit and forget

[Darren Boyle]

I know Ellis uses the Losi one, pherhaps he will let us know exactly what is involved in fitting it/getting it to fit.......

[trekkerkk]

ive used a losi one-way in an x5 without the need for modifying,
the pulley may need to be redrilled i cant quite remember,
it was a while ago


trekkker

[Cockerill]

I've used the Losi one, it requires no mods, just bolt it together.

[bigred5765]

it was the price of the losi one, and its weakness that put me of useing that one

[DaveG28]

Sorry guys, are Lesro and DDP the same people?

Have got the kit on order and putting together a list of the other "necessary" bits! Wondering if the "DDP" stuff people are talking about and Lesro is the same!

[bigred5765]

ddp is dirt dial parts , lesro is lesro

[Darren Boyle]

DDP is "Dirtz Dialled Partz" all items endorsed and/or designed by Brian Kinwald himself (aka The Dirt). DDP is just a part of X-Factory, comes out of the same place, just the same as the E-Speed items (Ellis's bits) do too. They are nothing to do directly with Lesro who are an independant shop here in the UK who sell X parts too.

We have the full range of DDP gears coming back into stock soon at a VASTLY reduced price (they currently were sourced here in the UK, made in very small numbers, then "sold" to a shop, the shop "sold" them then to Chazz, who then "sold" them to us to "sell" them to you, the racers. Four people got to "sell" them and four lots of postage and packaging meant a very high reatil price. Now Chazz has them made himslef direct, he buys a far larger quantity and passes them straight through to us, which will make them a LOT cheaper then ever before with a better manufacturer price and less people taking a "cut")

We also have on the way real soon the X-Factory optional one way assembly too (just as soon as Chazz recieves stock of them back in)

Hope that helps clear any confusion as to who, what and where DDP are...

(Edit - beat me too it bigred!!)

[DaveG28]

Cheers for the DDP info guys!

Ok, now I’ve bitten the bullet and got a kit sorted. I’m planning to start with the B2 front brace/front LCD’s/bearing belt tensioner thing, plus carbon shock tower braces, but other than that start with stock, sound sensible?

Is anyone running with a front diff or all one ways? I usually start with a diff and move to a one way if I’m lacking turn in.

So, questions before I order the wrong stuff:

Does the kit still use Losi wishbones/shocktowers, and is anyone running the crashback arms on “The Tuning Shop” page?

Does the kit come with a single tensioner? Also what motor clamp does it come with, do I need a separate aluminium one?

What dp/type is the spur? I like to carry plenty of spares for when I spoon up the mesh!

What are the modified wishbone kingpins?

And finally….what tends to break, eg what parts are worth having spare in a box??

Sorry for all the Q’s…

[ashleyb4]

Dave personally i wouldnt bother with the front brace as it just increases the chance of breaking wishbones. Leave it without another thing i would advise is maybe getting some xxx-cr or xxx rear inner pivot pins to stop your rear brace flapping about or falling off.

A

[Doomanic]

Ok, now I’ve bitten the bullet and got a kit sorted. I’m planning to start with the B2 front brace/front LCD’s/bearing belt tensioner thing, plus carbon shock tower braces, but other than that start with stock, sound sensible?
B2 Brace. Yes
LCD's. Only a necessity if you are running a one way diff, I use Losi Aluminium CVD's on my X-5
Belt roller bearing. Yes
Carbon Shock Tower Braces. Definitely Yes!

Is anyone running with a front diff or all one ways? I usually start with a diff and move to a one way if I’m lacking turn in.

I run a DCRacing/Lesro one way in my x-5

Does the kit still use Losi wishbones/shocktowers, and is anyone running the crashback arms on “The Tuning Shop” page?


Front and Rear towers and wishbones are XX-4, the rear tower has to be modified to clear the belt cover.
I use the X-Factory kingpins and haven't broken a wishbone since fitting them (although saying that has probably cursed them!) I also have the B2 brace on the front wishbones.

Does the kit come with a single tensioner? Also what motor clamp does it come with, do I need a separate aluminium one?

Do you mean tensioner or idler?
The kit is supplied with a single idler, unfortunately Losi have discontinued the parts used in the X-Factory Dual Idler Conversion, if Lesro have any left I suggest you get one from them.

I was advised by a couple of Team Drivers not to use the XXX-S aluminium motor clamp as it damages the chassis (they were right:thumbdown:)

What dp/type is the spur? I like to carry plenty of spares for when I spoon up the mesh!

The Spur is 48dp and is an X-Factory part.

What are the modified wishbone kingpins?

An X-Factory mod, highly recommended.:thumbsup:

And finally….what tends to break, eg what parts are worth having spare in a box??

The worst culprits are Losi parts, so should be easily available.
Front wishbones.
Front spindles and carriers
Front and rear shock towers.
It never hurts to carry a CVD rebuild kit as well.

Sorry for all the Q’s…

No problem, happy to help.

DCRacing now has an excellent stock of X-Factory parts and many of the other mods mentioned.:thumbsup:

[bigred5765]

ash its easier to change a wishbone than a bulkhead
always run front one way, have tried the diff many times always end up back at the one way,rear wishbone hinge pins can be made from old shock shafts you use the piston e clip to hole the rear brace in place

[Paul_Sinclair]

Cheers for the DDP info guys!

Ok, now I’ve bitten the bullet and got a kit sorted. I’m planning to start with the B2 front brace/front LCD’s/bearing belt tensioner thing, plus carbon shock tower braces, but other than that start with stock, sound sensible?

What are the modified wishbone kingpins?


Two quick comments:
My personal experience with LCD's has been terrible... no matter how I built them, what tricks I used, whatever, they just kept falling apart. I know some people who have had good luck with them, but not me. So I would recommend the CVD's.

Information/Explaination of the Caster Block Screws can be found here: http://www.xfactoryrc.com/news_09_27_06.htm

[DaveG28]

Sorry forgot to put I will also get the castor block screws/hinge pins etc!

Don't like the sound of plastic outdrives either, assuming I run 2 duffs what's the part numbers for the metal outdrives, and actually also for the cvd's?

Is it only the front that needs new driveshafts by the way?

[Doomanic]

Plastic outdrives are fine as long as you have the newer type with saver rings.
If not, or you really want to run metal outdrives you need 2 * A3073 and 1* A3072.
The CVD part number is A9967

If you are running a one way in the front then you must run either the CVDs or LCDs as the plastic yoke on the stock drivshafts is not up to the job. It is down to personal prefence on the rear. CVDs alter how the car handles, I prefer them to Losi UJs.

[Lew]

ive got me my x5 and finished building him today :D
wasn't as easy as i expected and there was some manufactoring problems with the car but everythings sorted..
but otherwise all is well and cant wait to run the beast on wednesday!!!

[Lee]

fibrelyte do a brace as well, for the rear tower i think, do people use this as well

[Doomanic]

The rear tower is less prone to breaking than the front as the wing absorbs some of the impact when it all goes a bit Pete Tong. The rear tower brace is a nice security measure but not as important as the front.

[super__dan]

The rear tower is less prone to breaking than the front as the wing absorbs some of the impact when it all goes a bit Pete Tong. The rear tower brace is a nice security measure but not as important as the front.

What he said!

[Lee]

do you run the camber link brace dan?

[DaveG28]

Which coloured Losi springs is it useful to have available for use on the X5?

[Doomanic]

Green and silver fronts, red, pink and white rears.

[Darren Boyle]

Yellow rears are also used a fair bit

[super__dan]

Lee - I assume you mean the one that links the camber link holes on the rear tower? Thing is though it has to be the 0 deg toe in brace off the original (non worlds car) as the 3 deg one doesn't line up with any of the holes.

However if you can wait a little bit longer there should be a nice CF one available ;)

[Lee]

Cheers dan, yes thats the one, i hadnt seen it on anyones car but i saw it on the fibrelyte website and thought it may be a new piece.

i have had enough of 0 degree toe;)

[Spencer Mulcahy]

Sorry forgot to put I will also get the castor block screws/hinge pins etc!

Don't like the sound of plastic outdrives either, assuming I run 2 duffs what's the part numbers for the metal outdrives, and actually also for the cvd's?

Is it only the front that needs new driveshafts by the way?

I have some of the Chris Long outdrive savers, if you want them you can have them they are just sat in my pit box doing nothing. Will you be at tallywain I will give you them their.

[DaveG28]

I have some of the Chris Long outdrive savers, if you want them you can have them they are just sat in my pit box doing nothing. Will you be at tallywain I will give you them their.

Cheers Spencer!

Well, I have an XX4WE sat in front of me and the X5 conversion on order from DMS, plus a :cry: inducing order from Losipartshouse for various bits and bobs, so a very expensive start to the week!! Looking forward to getting started on it though!

[DaveG28]

2 more questions guys:

1. Is anyone running a none standard motor plate, worried about heat disipation?

2. What size are the diff balls? I want to run carbide ones and have 3mm ad also 3/32 in my pit box?

Cheers,

Dave

[Darren Boyle]

Dave,
If you are starting out with a XX4 WE then it will already be equipped with tungsten carbide balls, they are 3/32 size.

Standard motor plate in the car is fine

Your X5 should be with you this morning, was successfully despatched yesterday along with the parts you ordered.

[Lee]

Do any of my x5 brothers have any of the long threaded inserts? (the ones that hold the motor in)

I didnt get any in my kit. I will call DMS tomorrow and see if they have any but if they dont will anyone have any for the NE regional?

The car is pretty much done now i just need to build shocks and set it up. Right now i cant even run it in because the motor will move:eh?:

[Darren Boyle]

Lee, we doo have some in stock I believe, PLUS a large X_factory order tommorow too.

If they were missing from your kit we will get some sorted out for you via Chazz

[Lee]

Cheers Darren,

I`ll give you a call tomorrow, i have another order for you:D

[DaveG28]

Dave,
If you are starting out with a XX4 WE then it will already be equipped with tungsten carbide balls, they are 3/32 size.

Standard motor plate in the car is fine

Your X5 should be with you this morning, was successfully despatched yesterday along with the parts you ordered.

Great thanks Darren, got my slip, its at my post office for me to pick up!

[Darren Boyle]

Lee, cool mate, no problem look forward to your call then

Dave, get down and collect it mate and get it all built........then go and kick some ass with it at the weekend!!!!!

[Darren Boyle]

Lee, I spoke with Chazz regarding your missing chassis inserts and told him we had sent you some FOC.

The reason the kit did not have any according to Chazz, is because you dont use the X-Factory ones!!!

The kit is supposed to use the original ones from the XX4 donor car made by Losi, hope that makes sense

[YoungChazz]

Darren is correct: the X - 5 Squared (All X - 5s, really.) uses the inserts found in the donor car.

When we build these Kits we use as many parts as possible from the donor car. No sense to not use them. as you'd otherwise throw them away, and it helps keep the Kit price as low as possible.

In the case of the motor screw inserts, the length of the inset is critical, and the chassis is built so they just snuggle up against the top of their holes. This prevents wobble which leads to cracked chassies. We didn't have this exactly correct in the original chassis, and it's one of the improvements in the Squared.

The X Factory inserts made for The New Math (Which are better, we think, because of the knurling.) are a bit shorter than Losi's motor inserts, and so do not work as well. The X - 5 chassis is made for the Losi insert.

In a pinch I think you can use an X - 6 insert in an X - 5 but we have never tried it and I think the knurling may screw up the chassis so that the Losi insert no longer fits properly. Therefore, I suggest you search for the correct Losi part #4224, which any well-stocked model shop should carry.

[Paul_Sinclair]

The X Factory inserts made for The New Math (Which are better, we think, because of the knurling.)


Chazz thinks the knurling makes them better; I think it simply makes them extra hard to put in and remove. Kind of off topic, but comments on this appreciated.