x2c breakages, what spares to stock?

[Conrad]

I've just picked up a cheap x2c, what are the most common parts that break on them? I'm aware of the front kick up/chassis plate but what else should I look to keep in the box?

[Lee24h]

Front top and bottom kick up plates
C hubs (get the 30deg alloy ones)
Front shock towers (get a carbon one)
And get two pom idler gears the standard ones are rubbish

[SamRCRacing]

Front c hubs just get a longer ball stud and put a nut on the other side, wont break. only ever broken 1 front chassis plate and that was full speed into the end of the strait( luckly there was a bit of padding) front top plate and spur gears i would keep a couple of. Not much else needed.

Sam

[VintageRacer]

My son has got through a couple of sets of wishbones but as they aren't left/right handed they're not too difficult to have the correct one.

No-one has mentioned the rear shock tower either, he's broken a couple of those too.

[Lee24h]

My son has got through a couple of sets of wishbones but as they aren't left/right handed they're not too difficult to have the correct one.

No-one has mentioned the rear shock tower either, he's broken a couple of those too.

Really i have had a 1/8th go full pelt into mine at the end of a straight
And i haven't broken one

[Conrad]

Thanks for the info gents. I assume the wishbones are fairly sturdy then, no bent hingepins etc... I remember reading the X pro was bad on rear hubs, some of them were breakages but other were just stripped ballstud holes, is this still the case on the X2C?

[RoyalCBR]

The X2c is a pretty sound car, in the season I owned one the only replacement items were the kick-up plate etc. I did upgrade my front hubs to alloy ones and after a while the idler gears but all in all put it together well and it will run and run - have fun!

[SamRCRacing]

Yes but if you put the nut on like how I said for the fronts, you will be fine.

[danny the elfman]

Does anyone know where i can get a gearbox housing from? I managed to break mine. I defy anyone else to manage that though lol.

[Lee24h]

Selections rc or seller: mellian w (both on ebay)

[VintageRacer]

Maybe we had a bad batch but he managed to break one or other corner every heat at one meeting last year. Was in the coider months which probably didn't help.


Really i have had a 1/8th go full pelt into mine at the end of a straight
And i haven't broken one

[nicVEGAchildJR]

60x chassis plates

[Mad-Wolfie]

Thanks for the info gents. I assume the wishbones are fairly sturdy then, no bent hingepins etc... I remember reading the X pro was bad on rear hubs, some of them were breakages but other were just stripped ballstud holes, is this still the case on the X2C?

if you are going to be hammering the car or are just a beginner, can i suggest instead of buying X2c wishbones, buy the mad-rat/monkey wishbones. they are a softer plastic so don't break so easy but are generally just the same performance wise, although the harder plastic ones do generate a little more grip as there is less grounding flex, but unless you are a regular contender pushing for a-finals you may never notice the difference.

The parts between the 2 are interchangeable, but if you download the monkey / x2c manual you will see some part numbers are different even though the parts look identical (excluding the chassis, battery strap & shell which are different as the car has a different battery configuration, but the chassis will fit if you want a stick pack chassis) the rat/monkey parts are softer plastic, the X car ones are the same but firmer.

[Smartalec]

60x chassis plates

Especially the way you drive :woot:

[Chalkie]

In six months running i've broke a servo horn, and cracked a kick up plate and front shock tower although both stayed in one piece allowing me to finish the race. I've also bent one rear shock shaft. All in all a pretty tough car.

[JBL]

After racing my X2c for 11 months, I bloke 1 front C hub, 1 Front bulkhead brace, 1 rear shock tower, 1 chassis. The car is generally very strong and can take quite a bit of punishment. I raced up to 3 times a week using the same buggy.

[adon30]

Front c hubs just get a longer ball stud and put a nut on the other side, wont break.

With the C hubs it is worth running a tap through the hole before fitting the ball stud. I fitted one and as soon as it went tight a split mark appeared on the top above the hole so already stressed. This has happened on a pair I had so may just be a tighter fitment but worth doing to prevent the stress occuring.

I'm using the longer ball stud and nut mod on my X-Pro and have had no problems with it. But will be upgrading on the Akula based TC02C.


After racing my X2c for 11 months, I bloke 1 front C hub, 1 Front bulkhead brace, 1 rear shock tower, 1 chassis.

Well done on the chassis :thumbsup:

[Conrad]

if you are going to be hammering the car or are just a beginner, can i suggest instead of buying X2c wishbones, buy the mad-rat/monkey wishbones. they are a softer plastic so don't break so easy but are generally just the same performance wise, although the harder plastic ones do generate a little more grip as there is less grounding flex, but unless you are a regular contender pushing for a-finals you may never notice the difference.

The parts between the 2 are interchangeable, but if you download the monkey / x2c manual you will see some part numbers are different even though the parts look identical (excluding the chassis, battery strap & shell which are different as the car has a different battery configuration, but the chassis will fit if you want a stick pack chassis) the rat/monkey parts are softer plastic, the X car ones are the same but firmer.

Well seasoned racer, but I haven't raced properly with a buggy in ten years, hell the last buggys I bought were a XX-CR and an original CAT2K :D Thanks for all of the feedback guys, it's turned in to an essential read for any X2C owners.

2nd the chassis comment, that's dedication for you :)