B44.2.....

[Dudders]

Oh yes! :D

[coleman758]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/664682-ae-factory-team-b44-2-thread.html

[jonathan may]

Nice I wonder when they will be available ?

[Big G]

AE have said October

[DeMogoobra]

Loose screw in the motor mount pic ;)

[Jamie B4]

Whats the verdict on the big bores was under the illusion that they were good abroad but not so good over here? Has this new car been developed for astro or clay?

[RobW]

Doh. I was thinking about selling my B44.1 as I don't really use it - guess its value has just taken another dip - made my decision for me though - keep it!!

Car does look good although I wonder how many will stick with small bores - guess it is another tuning option.

Rob

[Big G]

don't forget that AE's big bores aren't the same size as Schu/TD/Kyosho's.

The change experienced between 10mm and 13mm was such that some racers decided to return to 10mm shocks. as AE ones are 12mm the change may not be the same and could work effectively

[RogerM]

Kyosho & Losi big bores are 12mm ID too ... not sure on the dingo but thought they were slightly under 12mm ID.

IMHO the main reason people have prefered the small bores to big in this country is that our tracks are NOTHING like the ones in the USA / Japan so there is plenty of work to be done with pistons to get the correct "feel" on UK tracks.
I, along with a few others, have done A LOT of work with the Kyosho big bores and now find them quicker than the small bores ... interestingly we all arrived at the same piston combination independantly ... and it has far more than 2 holes ;)

[noreargrip]

was hoping for a gear diff option

[discothesnake]

Not enough changes to make me want to upgrade. The slipper looks interesting and the lipo holder looks good. That's about it tho.

[DeMogoobra]

Don't forget it is +8mm also :).

I agree. A gear diff option would be nice.

[jasonrcb]

That does look a very nice piece of kit i must say.
The plus point with big bores from associated will be,in this country with tom,cragg and bradders there going to find a good setup pretty quickly,so all being well that will help out other racers instead of the hit and hope setup others have been doing on big bores,having top drivers here in the uk can only benefit all who run the brand:)

[KennyClark]

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/616113_441784649196707_1734516271_o.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/201125_441784779196694_724170730_o.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/277205_441784952530010_960213487_o.jpg

[Honeybadger]

One more.

http://www.teamassociated.com/pictures/news/articles/993/supporting_photos/B44.2-FT-fullsheet-PR_lg.jpg

[Rob_B]

Is that new shell on the car with it being 8mm longer. Or will the bulldog shells fit

[Col]

not just 8mm longer. Also 3mm narrower

[/tobys]

Yes:

JConcepts Finnisher +8mm body (clear) and Factory Team protective chassis tape included

From AE website.

[Moose]

any list prices jet for the european market?
370 USD should be around 310 € than. Same price the B44.1 is sold at the moment.

[danny the elfman]

how does the +8mm chassis help the car on uk tracks? Ive heard the extended 2wd chassis' arent needed on our track so is it the same story for 4wd?

[raymondkerr]

Not being familiar with this car but does the B44.1 and .2 come with gear diffs or are they ball diffs ?

[SamRCRacing]

ball diffs

[tisher]

I can not see what difference this car will make in this country big bore and 8+ big deal:yawn:

[Big G]

I can not see what difference this car will make in this country big bore and 8+ big deal:yawn:

wait and see. until they are on UK tracks we'll never know. :woot:

[gazhillAE]

wait and see. until they are on UK tracks we'll never know. :woot:

8mm chassis and slipper big differences

[Dudders]

Slipper looks nice, big bores yummy, 8mm yes please!

Thank you AE!

[Col]

I like the slipper. Other than that I think I'll stick with my original 44.

does anyone know if the slipper will fit the 44/44.1?

[Richard Lowe]

I like the slipper. Other than that I think I'll stick with my original 44.

does anyone know if the slipper will fit the 44/44.1?
I don't know for sure, but judging by the spur gear cover the gap between the two centre bulkheads looks wider than on the 44/.1 :(

[Hpi_guy]

Do I sense some demmel time coming along..........

[tisher]

whats up with the 44.1 slipper never had a problem with mine they would have been better getting the drive gear metal and get rid of the ball diff

[gazhillAE]

I don't know for sure, but judging by the spur gear cover the gap between the two centre bulkheads looks wider than on the 44/.1 :(

They've had to extend the chassis due to the slipper I believe

[Freakypen]

Surely they'd just shorten the centre shaft to allow the clearance for the slipper??

[discothesnake]

They've had to extend the chassis due to the slipper I believe

Can you not buy the new slipper already? If so, that would tell me that it will fit in the B44.1.

[Big G]

you can buy the new slipper yes, AS91175, but it won't fit on the B44.1 or B44. It does fit the B4/4.1, C4.1, X6 range of cars and goes under the spur cover without modification.

[Jamie B4]

Car looks good.

Think there is a little more to it than a few changes reckon this car will drive and feel completely different to previous B44's

Chassis +8mm are the top plates longer aswell or is this swallowed up with the new slipper

Big bores - associated

Should be quite stable

Looking forward to seeing how they go! are there any in the country yet

[gazhillAE]

you can buy the new slipper yes, AS91175, but it won't fit on the B44.1 or B44. It does fit the B4/4.1, C4.1, X6 range of cars and goes under the spur cover without modification.

No it doesn't !
You need to space the gear cover out 1mm
Gaz

[Big G]

well I didn't need to do anything on my C4.1 to fit the cover over it...

[neiloliver]

on Pre-order :)

[Freakypen]

well I didn't need to do anything on my C4.1 to fit the cover over it...
Nor me

[gazhillAE]

well I didn't need to do anything on my C4.1 to fit the cover over it...

With the optional black harder plastic AE cover I've had to space mine out as it rubs ;0(

Noticeably miles better !

[hampti]

Looks really nice but what we want is a new B4.1..... Hopefully they bring out a new 2WD in the next few months.

[Adyb]

So question is are the UK Team using this car winter/next year or sticking with B44.1?

Thanks.

[Col]

No... the REAL question is will a +8mm chassis make everyone from Craggy, Bradders, and BJ all the way down to me quicker? Possibly (although I doubt it) but I'm not willing to spend the best part of £300 to find out

[gazhillAE]

No... the REAL question is will a +8mm chassis make everyone from Craggy, Bradders, and BJ all the way down to me quicker? Possibly (although I doubt it) but I'm not willing to spend the best part of £300 to find out

Il confirm when mine arrives shortly! ;0)

[Adyb]

No... the REAL question is will a +8mm chassis make everyone from Craggy, Bradders, and BJ all the way down to me quicker? Possibly (although I doubt it) but I'm not willing to spend the best part of £300 to find out

Please read my question again, I did not ask if it would make them quicker I asked if the UK Team are going to be using this car?

Thanks.

[gazhillAE]

Please read my question again, I did not ask if it would make them quicker I asked if the UK Team are going to be using this car?

Thanks.

I would be surprised if any of them don't use it as the longer chassis and other additions will help it on the high grip national tracks

[discothesnake]

I would be surprised if any of them don't use it as the longer chassis and other additions will help it on the high grip national tracks

Will it tho? I thought the idea of a longer chassis was for tracks with less grip? Is'nt that why the longer chassis' were brought out for the worlds etc?

Also, having tried both i am not yet convinced with big bores. Certainly not on our tracks.

[Big G]

Fitted the big bores to my B44.1 last night. Haven't run it yet, but they feel really nice on the bench. The V2 shocks I removed which I thought were spot on felt horrible lol.

Probably new toys syndrome though :D

[Jamie B4]

Guys

This happens with all new cars - why slag it off before we see what it can do.

Under no illusion that there will be issues but thats what optional parts are for.

Dont need to analyse the price either buy it or dont

But think most of the top guys will run it so setups etc will be available where as the older versions you will have to sort out yourselves

:D

[James Pritchard]

I wont be selling my B44.1 just yet till i know how good the new car is.
I've ordered a B44.2. I feel some back to back testing coming on!

[gazhillAE]

Will it tho? I thought the idea of a longer chassis was for tracks with less grip? Is'nt that why the longer chassis' were brought out for the worlds etc?

Also, having tried both i am not yet convinced with big bores. Certainly not on our tracks.

Disagree

Lwb means:-
More rear traction
More stability in high speed corners
Slower turn in
Better stability in corners
Better over jumps
And so on!

[Chrislong]

.... and stretched Limo parties :woot:

[neiloliver]

.... and stretched Limo parties :woot:

LOL.. I am fitting a hot tub and mini bar in my b44.2....

[Howler]

Pre-ordered :)

[Howler]

Anyone running a 44.2 yet? Any setup or build tips? mine's halfway built on the ktichen table at home.

[feniks]

mijne is at the shop sinds wendsday , diddent collect it yet as my 44.1 still dous the job great . will collect next week and maybe build it dont now yet

[gazhillAE]

I've got one and will stick pics up later
There's a few bits to check on build and be careful with the two screws In the front brace mine hadnt been tapped properly.
Gaz

[jason-l]

There's a few bits to check on build

Could you share more details/build tips on the things to check please, Gaz?

[gazhillAE]

Could you share more details/build tips on the things to check please, Gaz?

Will do later !
At work still

[bigred5765]

just finished building one for someone, shocks are ace, but there are a few instructions that are well lets say not to clear, but not really a problem, went together quiet well really,

[gazhillAE]

Don't think I looked at the instructions !!!
Can build these with my eyes closed now!

Teaser here ;0)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v188/hillgm/67B88DBA-0951-4B64-8F00-E4B12EC2BF79-704-0000005FA2C0CCF5.jpg

[Howler]

I've got one and will stick pics up later
There's a few bits to check on build and be careful with the two screws In the front brace mine hadnt been tapped properly.
Gaz

Mine too, the pin retainers wouldnt quite go home. In far enough that they should stay put with threadlock though.

Also one of the big silver pivot balls for the battery tray has no hex in it, completely smooth as if they've forgot to tool it.:cry:

[Howler]

Took it out today for a practice, cold day, but still no excuse for four ball cups shattering in one and a half packs. One shattered as i put the car down, dropped it from about a foot.

FT ballcups on this seem to be super brittle, i replaced them as i went with the standard softer ones and none of those broke. I never even had a really big crash at any point.

[dMITIj]

were to buy rpm ball cups for the 44.2? ore other better than AE ball cups?

best Regards.

[gazhillAE]

were to buy rpm ball cups for the 44.2? ore other better than AE ball cups?

best Regards.

Jconcepts
Mb models

[dMITIj]

Thanks.

[Howler]

Had the 44.2 out on Sunday for another practice day, with the Jconcepts ball cups. None broke, and i drove much harder this time. In fact nothing broke, pretty happy with that as i wasn't holding back.

[gazhillAE]

Thanks.

If your in Denmark USA may be a better option?
:woot:

[Ron Burgundy]

So....ran the new car last night.. broke 7 of 12 ballcups... i dont just mean popped off, i mean on landing they disintegrated, no ballcup left only a bare turnbuckle.

My next point is, i am running on carpet, mid grip with slicks and traction compound. Someone could please help me with a setup that would be great.

Standard box setup, longer front camber link, 30wt rear, 35 front, stock springs. Jc hihg clearance wing. The car was super super sensitive on steering, tendency to spin on initial turn in and very unstable down the straight.

Im trying to settle down the steering a bit, but any help either end is much appreciated!!! :)

How bout weight? I added about 50grams centre weight and batteries forward

Cheers!!

[Steven Forster]

So....ran the new car last night.. broke 7 of 12 ballcups... i dont just mean popped off, i mean on landing they disintegrated, no ballcup left only a bare turnbuckle.

My next point is, i am running on carpet, mid grip with slicks and traction compound. Someone could please help me with a setup that would be great.

Standard box setup, longer front camber link, 30wt rear, 35 front, stock springs. Jc hihg clearance wing. The car was super super sensitive on steering, tendency to spin on initial turn in and very unstable down the straight.

Im trying to settle down the steering a bit, but any help either end is much appreciated!!! :)

How bout weight? I added about 50grams centre weight and batteries forward

Cheers!!


could always try your old V1/V2 shocks for a comparison.........???

[Ron Burgundy]

I could, as right now I am scratching my head as to how to tame it down a bit. Try a sway bar in the front maybe. Anybody have any ideas? Normally you can do a lot with tires but as we are running a control slick, its a little difficult!

What does anyone think of 3deg toe in on the rear?

[Fatal1ty]

The kit ballcups are cr*p, replace them with the RPMs and you are out of problems.

A front swaybar could be the solution for your problems. It calms down the steering all around the corner, and makes it more "round" to drive. On carpet and astro tracks are the swaybars in the front a must have IMO on nearly every car.

What do you mean with very unstable down the straight? Are there some bumps? Try a wing with a higher lip. Gives you more traction, and also slows down the initial turn in.

Cheers

[Ron Burgundy]

hey, yes super "wandery" down the straight if you know what i mean.

Yes I heard the AE cups are rubbish and was waiting for my RPM Cups but only got them today! Let me say it is 100% confirmed do not even bother using them. I wonder if AE know this?

Sway bars im gonna try for sure cheers! :)

[Chrislong]

What amount of rear toe-in are you running?

[Ron Burgundy]

0deg standard Chris

[Richard Lowe]

If you have too much initial steering on carpet try tightening the front diff, going up on the front oil and/or smaller hole front piston and adding washers under the rear inner camber link ballstud in that order :)

Adding any weight between the lipo's will give you more entry steering and less exit steering. It also makes the car land from jumps worse and makes it rotate much more mid-corner.

[450kid]

What does adding washers under the ball stud do?

[Ron Burgundy]

Richard, legend cheers and all the guys here, thank you very much :)

[Ron Burgundy]

What does adding washers under the ball stud do?

Lengthens the link. Makes the rear end roll a little more and what I found, gives you more entry and mid corner grip. One washer makes a huge difference.

[Ron Burgundy]

I am sure I have seen it mentioned somewhere but I wanted to get talk about the new B44.2 front arms compared to the older non webbing style.

I recently ordered some front arms and obviously got the old style. Has anyone discussed discovered the material to be any different. So far the only discernible difference is the small "2" stamped on the new ones with webbing, as opposed to the older "1" stamped on the one without the webbing on the inner.

How do we go about getting the new ones, do we specify we want the new ones, as they are the same part number. Obviously shops have old stock I am guessing, just something for others to look out for!!

[Big G]

the new revised arms have webbing at the rear where that little lump is the hinge pin goes into. Initially I thought the plastic was slightly different. perhaps more carbon (b4 style) ish than the original ones. I'm not 100% on this theory now though.

the 1 and 2 on the arms have been there for as long as I can remember and isn't related to the revision.

[Jamie B4]

Have you built yours yet gaz just building up to mine

Any build issues or pretty much same as B44.1

Any hotups required

J

[Big G]

yeah I built mine on the 26th of October :blush:

I fitted a spare vented slipper plate to the VTS as I had one in my box. Otherwise it's standard. Probably the usual '44 options we're use to at a guess.

The only option bits I have on the .1 are the vented plates and the alloy front tower support :)

[Ron Burgundy]

guess the issue is, when you order new arms, be sure to mention that you want the gen2 arms with webbing, as like I found, you will receive the old style. Even shops dont know about it and were not told. It was news to the AE Distributor here he said... quite strange :)

[KRob]

AE mentions the update in the features for the car ;)

The problem you might find is that the front w/bones have kept the same part number as it is a rolling change. This happens quite often with a variety of manufacturers so unfortunately the only way to differentiate is to physically look at them.

[neiloliver]

Has anyone had issues with the small o-rings under the small screws in the shock cap? These seem far too soft to me and tend to stretch as the screw is rotated and try to squirm their way out from under the screw head. I think the o-rings should be harder or maybe replaced by a fibre gasket type of washer?

Other than that I had a 3/8 CS screw missing, one hinge pin supplied too long (I had to dremmel it down to the right length) and the instructions have a couple of errors (i) the 2mm gap for the slipper nut on page 10 and the lack of explanation on page 17 to show how the battery tray mounts are fixed. Nothing major but it looks like no-one sanity checked the instructions.

it is Weird having Hexes on the rear of an Associated car. Just wish all my wheels has hexes!

I just need a set-up now!

[Freakypen]

Hi - yeah I had the same issues with the shock cap o rings and the suggested slipper setting- but all my hinge pins etc were fine. If you download the B44.2 instruction manual from the Team Associated site- there are revisions like telling you how to fit the battery straps etc.

[Richard Lowe]

The little bleed screw o-rings are... fun :drool:

I've found you only just have to nip the screws up to the point of the o-rings squirting out of the hole, the shocks won't leak and they won't come loose. No need to crank them down as tight as they will go ;)

[Fatal1ty]

No need for the o-rings at the bleeding screw. Only use the screw with a bit loctit, and you got no problems with sealing. No problems so far with leaking, or to much air!

[Howler]

I seem to be suffering front spring retainers snapping. Done two in two meetings now. They're snapping at the bottom of the lightened bit. Are there any other spring retainers that will fit the big bores?

Other than that, the car is flying, got 3rd yesterday against a strong field.

[Steven Forster]

I seem to be suffering front spring retainers snapping. Done two in two meetings now. They're snapping at the bottom of the lightened bit. Are there any other spring retainers that will fit the big bores?

Other than that, the car is flying, got 3rd yesterday against a strong field.

Have you raced a B44/B44.1............if so how does they compare to the 44.2 ???

cheers :)

[gazhillAE]

The little bleed screw o-rings are... fun :drool:

I've found you only just have to nip the screws up to the point of the o-rings squirting out of the hole, the shocks won't leak and they won't come loose. No need to crank them down as tight as they will go ;)

Ditto

[Howler]

Have you raced a B44/B44.1............if so how does they compare to the 44.2 ???

cheers :)

Nope, all i can say is none of them have beaten my 44.2 yet :p

[Gazzabruv105]

Hi all, finally got some time to start my B44.2 build. This is my first ever build and got the diffs built tonight. All pretty straight forward and instructions pretty straight forward so far. When putting the bevel diff gear and drive pinion in the gearbox casing, the manual states to put a drop of diff lube on them. Instead I have put a generous fingernail sized lump of CV Lith-Moly grease as this is what I use in my Ten-SCTE when I maintain it.

Can anyone clarify that this will be ok with the B44.2 as my only concern is that the diff gear and pinion are plastic whereas the gears in my Ten-SCTE are metal.

I am pretty sure that it will be ok but if anyone has any thoughts, then please put me right. Cheers. :)

[Howler]

Yeah, i's think that would be fine. Check for wear on your furst diff rebuild, but i doubt that grease would cause any. Lithium based greases are normally safe to use on plastics.

[Gazzabruv105]

Cheers for the super fast response. Gonna do a bit more tonight when I get home and 5he kids are asleep.

[discostu]

Molly grease can contaiminat the diff and cause the diff to wear quicker that is why diff lube is recomened

I would suggest you build the car as per kit using the specified lubes in the correct place thread lock where recomened then there will be no tears.

Half the problem you read on these threads is due to people thinking they know best but the reality is the manufactures have designed these parts in this way for a good reason.

And just for the record the gearboxes on the 44.2 are the same as the original tc3 that was releasesd in the late 90 and they are build the same now as they were then.

Stu

[steveproracing]

100% agree with stu on this one! inside a ball diff gearbox the only lube that can be used has to be identical with that used on the diff its self as contamination can cause diff failure as quick as 1 run!!!! I've seen it happen!

[Gazzabruv105]

OK I will strip it down and start all over again. Are you sure the manual instructions of one drop of diff lube is enough tho. It doesn't seem enough.

[discostu]

yeah as the manual says i tend to lightly smear the crown wheel (diif gear) and never had a problem diff stay sweet for a while.

stu

[Richard Lowe]

Also with the design of the crown gear some of the grease on the balls/plates will get thrown out onto the teeth with use. You'll find after you've run it a bit the grease finds it's way onto the teeth anyway :)

[Gazzabruv105]

Right. Kids are now in bed. Just got to wrap up some final pressies for the big day then I should have a couple of hours free. Has anyone got some advice for bits I will come across further down the line with the build. Did I make a decent choice with the B44.2 or should I have got something else. I mean, it looks decent enough to me but then again this is a bit new to me 1/10 buggies.

[discostu]

you will not be disapointed in the slightest

the only thing i would take care with is the small rubber o rings for the shock caps i found if i used a driver it would pop out too easily so i use the supplied allen keys i found it a little easier to seat it snug like the manual says.

other than that enjoy.

stu

[Howler]

Also, seems like some of the front hingepin holders werent threaded properly from the factory. The retaining screws wouldnt go fully home on mine, but close enough, with threadlock of course.

[Gazzabruv105]

What servo's are you guys running in your b44.2, I have a savox 1258tg and I have had to install it without the spacers and yet the ball cup is still rubbing on the top of the servo. People on rctech were having the same problem with the savox servo and most have taken adremel to the top of the servo which I am a bit rreluctant to do. May keep the savox for another car in the future.

Any help would be great.

[gazhillAE]

What servo's are you guys running in your b44.2, I have a savox 1258tg and I have had to install it without the spacers and yet the ball cup is still rubbing on the top of the servo. People on rctech were having the same problem with the savox servo and most have taken adremel to the top of the servo which I am a bit rreluctant to do. May keep the savox for another car in the future.

Any help would be great.

Associated xp1015

[steveproracing]

Futaba bls551

[KRob]

What servo's are you guys running in your b44.2, I have a savox 1258tg and I have had to install it without the spacers and yet the ball cup is still rubbing on the top of the servo. People on rctech were having the same problem with the savox servo and most have taken adremel to the top of the servo which I am a bit rreluctant to do. May keep the savox for another car in the future.

Any help would be great.

Is it the bellcrank that's rubbing? Could you not take something off that instead?

[Richard Lowe]

Last time I fitted a Savox in a 44 I needed to take a small amount off the end of the steering bellcrank, only a couple of mm's from the bottom edge and it fitted fine after that.

I currently run an AE XP1015 in mine and it goes in with no fettling.

[Gazzabruv105]

Thanks for the replies. Dont fancy taking a dremel to a new savox servo so may keep it to one side for another rc. Can anyone recommend the cheapest place to get the ae xp1015. Cheers.

[gazhillAE]

What servo's are you guys running in your b44.2, I have a savox 1258tg and I have had to install it without the spacers and yet the ball cup is still rubbing on the top of the servo. People on rctech were having the same problem with the savox servo and most have taken adremel to the top of the servo which I am a bit rreluctant to do. May keep the savox for another car in the future.

Any help would be great.

The savox servo rubs yes!
You will need to Dremel down the section where the sticker is
Refit and retry.
Or trim down the bellcrank that mr Lowe has advised you to do or both!
Or buy another servo!
Cml have the associated one I mentioned and it works fine.
Not sure on other servos sorry
Gaz

[Gazzabruv105]

Just had a quick look and it looks like I could get away with dremelling the smallest amount off the bellcrank arm and run the servo with no spacers, so all is not lost. Should have read up before choosing a servo that is a problem to fit. Oh well. You live and learn. Thanks for all your help guys.

[Gazzabruv105]

Been reading up on rctech thread for the B44.2 and some of the guys are running a capacitor direct to the rx as they say that the savox servos are a bit power hungry. Does this sound right.

Also gonna get some tyres on order. Been told schumacher mini spikes silver for wet and yellow for dry with answer rc blue medium inserts with low profile cut staggers for front silver and yellow. Does this sound correct. Sticking with schumacher as they are the control tyre for racing.

Motor and esc I can't make my mind up between the orion vortex with rs10 esc or the tekin gen2 motor and r10 pro esc. So any help there would also be appreciated. Sorry for all of the questions. I hate being a noobie at this. Lol.

[Gazzabruv105]

Yet more questions. Lol. What spares should I carry in my box for car and where do you guys get your screws. Is there somewhere to order them cheaply in bulk or do you all order direct associated replacements. Imperial seems harder to find.

[gazhillAE]

Yet more questions. Lol. What spares should I carry in my box for car and where do you guys get your screws. Is there somewhere to order them cheaply in bulk or do you all order direct associated replacements. Imperial seems harder to find.

Never ran a power cap for a savox servo.
Staggers are for 2wd front not 4wd
Stick to mini spikes
Green normally in wet depending on surface
Silvers do work though try Both
Yellow for dry yes or greens depending on surface again
Schumacher arnt a controller tyre unless your doing certain meetings!
If your a club or regional driver you should be able to use any!
Speedo and motor wise...Lrp flow and a reedy sonic motor will be good!
Spares wise...how good are you at driving?
If your a beginner a spare car haha
Only joking!
Spares wise you need ideally are below!
Screws wise there are lots if options but I normally order packets of originals!
You will only need the countersunk ones potentially that are mainly used throughout the car!

Spares-
Front arms
Rear arms
Front and rear tower
Steering rack
Diff gears
Ball cups
Shock rod ends
Front shock shafts

Anymore help?
Ordering wise cml distribution have have a very good shop online!
Gaz

[Danny Harrison]

Yet more questions. Lol. What spares should I carry in my box for car and where do you guys get your screws. Is there somewhere to order them cheaply in bulk or do you all order direct associated replacements. Imperial seems harder to find.

Ebay b44 screw and you csn buy a stainless steel set with plenty different ones in for under a tenner.

Get some front A arms, front bulkhead, front castor blocks and front steering knuckles. Pretty much the only things I've ever broken on my 44.1 so I imagine it will be the same. :)

Edit, I did brake a shock shaft other week but first time in 8 months I have.

[Rayzerp]

Ebay b44 screw and you csn buy a stainless steel set with plenty different ones in for under a tenner.

Get some front A arms, front bulkhead, front castor blocks and front steering knuckles. Pretty much the only things I've ever broken on my 44.1 so I imagine it will be the same. :)

Edit, I did brake a shock shaft other week but first time in 8 months I have.

Only thing i have broken on B44 is front shock shafts....3 of them!

[Gazzabruv105]

Thanks for all your help guys. One last question (for now anyway, lol). Can anyone recommend a pinion set or what pinions to get in what sizes ie 48dp or 64dp and is it worth buying a set etc. Thanks again.

[Rayzerp]

48dp and I have used a 25 with a 10.5 motor and currently 23 with a 7.5 so that could be a guide for you....but it will really ultimately depend on the track

[Danny Harrison]

Thanks for all your help guys. One last question (for now anyway, lol). Can anyone recommend a pinion set or what pinions to get in what sizes ie 48dp or 64dp and is it worth buying a set etc. Thanks again.

For me biggest Ive used is a 23t pinion with a 6.5t motor.

Im usually using between 17t and 21t depending on the size/speed of the track.

[Gazzabruv105]

GazhillAE or anyone else. What size servo horn works on the xp1015. One site (rctech) reckons its a 23t and two other threads I found reckon its a 25t horn. Only reason is that I already have an aluminium servo horn which I ordered for the savox so hoping its a 25t.

Also when I order my tyres, mini spikes, been told so far that medium blue answer rc inserts but do I order front and rear or are they not ordered for rear only.

[Steven Forster]

GazhillAE or anyone else. What size servo horn works on the xp1015. One site (rctech) reckons its a 23t and two other threads I found reckon its a 25t horn. Only reason is that I already have an aluminium servo horn which I ordered for the savox so hoping its a 25t.

Also when I order my tyres, mini spikes, been told so far that medium blue answer rc inserts but do I order front and rear or are they not ordered for rear only.

Not sure on what tooth horn you need but if you have the kit plastic horn with the letter F on it that will work ;)

[Gazzabruv105]

Y3ah I have the kit horns but just wondered before I decide to buy the xp1015. Trying to j7stify the purchase. Lol.

[KRob]

XP servos are a 25t spline.

[Gazzabruv105]

Cheers mate.

[gazhillAE]

Y3ah I have the kit horns but just wondered before I decide to buy the xp1015. Trying to j7stify the purchase. Lol.

Futaba mate same as what you use with savox
Gaz

[Gazzabruv105]

Ditto

Been reading the B44.2 thread on rctech and alot of guys on there are either not using the o-ring or using part TLR5066 and placing the washer in and it seems to work really well. MBModels do them for about £2.

What springs are most people using. Again read on rctech that greens on the rear seem to work well.

[Richard Lowe]

What springs are most people using. Again read on rctech that greens on the rear seem to work well.

After a little while running the car now I mostly start on Blue (same as kit) fronts and Green (one softer than kit) rear. The rear springs are pretty much always Green, the front springs I change depending on the layout/grip, usually it varies between Green/White/Blue/Yellow.

[matty2]

Hi all, what spur gears would you guys run 44.2 wise?Looking at getting the new vr1 speedo & 7.5 motor combo i know tracksize ect varies
What spur would you class as medium accelleration/ top end wise
Or are you mainly just using the kit spur for 44.1 and 44.2 and just varying pinions to suit?
Apologies if i missed it somewhere, been running sc's and smaller bugs and picked up 44.2 so gearing different

Many thanks

[Richard Lowe]

For a 7.5 start around 81t (kit) spur and 22t pinion and go from there :)

[matty2]

Brill cheers richard :thumbsup:

[bandit]

For a 7.5 start around 81t (kit) spur and 22t pinion and go from there :)

What pinion would be best suited as a starting point on the kit spur with a 5.5 motor?

[tisher]

What pinion would be best suited as a starting point on the kit spur with a 5.5 motor?

5.5 I run 18 or 19:thumbsup:

[gazhillAE]

What pinion would be best suited as a starting point on the kit spur with a 5.5 motor?

19-20
81

[bandit]

Cheers guys.

[Moose]

I built the B44.2 and one thing that makes me worry a bit is that the diff nut touches the driveshafts. Diff nut was compressed before assembly and I even looked for shorter diff springs in my spare parts but it didnt help enough. Diff is closed completly.
It isnt too bad but the last 2 mm when compressing the shocks will touch the diff nut.
The rear is nearly perfect.

[RDG 40]

What shock oils are people using now on astro on b44.2?

I was using rear 27.5 green spring, front 37.5 red spring other day car seemed hard to drive. Dint know whether it was the front being too hard or something else

Looking around comments seem to be the big bores need alot less damping than v2s ??

Im now thinking b4.2 aswell i should drop aswell from 30 rear and 35 front to 25 and 30 ??

[Richard Lowe]

Having not run outdoors with the BB's just yet I'm not 100% sure but I get the feeling from using them indoors that even the largest (2x 1.7mm) pistons have too much pack for our choppy bumps. This weekend at RHR I'm going to be playing about with drilled pistons with 4 holes, will report back with any conclusions I come to :)

[steveproracing]

im having great success with fronts 4 x 55 piston 35wt and yellow spring 2 internal spacers
rear 4 x 54 piston 27.5wt green spring 1 internal spacer
car is really well balanced rest of car is set up as kit except no anti squat washers and using the black rear roll bar.

[gazhillAE]

What shock oils are people using now on astro on b44.2?

I was using rear 27.5 green spring, front 37.5 red spring other day car seemed hard to drive. Dint know whether it was the front being too hard or something else

Looking around comments seem to be the big bores need alot less damping than v2s ??

Im now thinking b4.2 aswell i should drop aswell from 30 rear and 35 front to 25 and 30 ??

Setups on the petite site buddy