coming to a bury meeting near you........

[Gavin Collingwood]

cannot wait to race this bad boy!!!
what you think lads?

[bigred5765]

looks the mutts nutts pal, all u need now is are aircraft alloy front brace

[Gavin Collingwood]

Which brace is that Carl?

[bigred5765]

the front hinge pin brace it bends if you hit something ares doesnt

[losichris]

cannot wait to race this bad boy!!!
what you think lads?

hmm im sure a few weeks ago you were telling me what a fool i was for not buying a 22 :eh?:

[Gavin Collingwood]

And what make is that then?

[Gavin Collingwood]

Yeah was completely wrong. Pile of Shite car.

[bigred5765]

hmm im sure a few weeks ago you were telling me what a fool i was for not buying a 22 :eh?:
and im sure most will not say the same theres no comparison between 22 and the rb6

[losichris]

and im sure most will not say the same theres no comparison between 22 and the rb6

indeed, and they look very tidy!

[Gavin Collingwood]

I Was basically handicapped with the losi. Only realised after driving matt's car how much better other cars were than the 22, and after driving at goshen the other day in the wet, WOW. It's like cheating!

[Gavin Collingwood]

Then again it better bloody had do at the price I had to pay!

[Cremegg]

I Was basically handicapped with the losi. Only realised after driving matt's car how much better other cars were than the 22, and after driving at goshen the other day in the wet, WOW. It's like cheating!

Was that you at goshen a few Sundays ago? When I was bugging you asking question lol

[Gavin Collingwood]

Yeah pal, that was me prating about with my old xxcr kinwald while I was in between cars. Don't mind at all pal we all started somewhere and if you don't ask you don't learn

[Cremegg]

Yeah pal, that was me prating about with my old xxcr kinwald while I was in between cars. Don't mind at all pal we all started somewhere and if you don't ask you don't learn

haha true. Like the RB6, very nice indeed :)

Ive upgraded to brushless now and goes a little bit quicker

where abouts did you get the front wheels from, do the cut starggers fit on any front wheels or do you have to get narrower wheels? and are they 12mm hex?

Cheers

Chris

[Gavin Collingwood]

They're kyosho wheels, as far as I know they only fit the rb5/6 possibly tamiya aswell. They are 12mm hex but have a different sized hole and offset to the 22 wheels which are also 12 mm Hex so be careful just coz it's 12 mm hex doesn't necessarily mean they'll fit.

There are two types of cut stagger, the low profile ones like in the pic (which are most common and you have to cut off the excess wheel from the inside to make the wheels narrower. And there's a higher profile cut stagger (less common in yellow compound more common in green compound for wet) which stretches over the full width of the 2.2 front wheel so there's no need to make them narrower.

[Cremegg]

They're kyosho wheels, as far as I know they only fit the rb5/6 possibly tamiya aswell. They are 12mm hex but have a different sized hole and offset to the 22 wheels which are also 12 mm Hex so be careful just coz it's 12 mm hex doesn't necessarily mean they'll fit.

There are two types of cut stagger, the low profile ones like in the pic (which are most common and you have to cut off the excess wheel from the inside to make the wheels narrower. And there's a higher profile cut stagger (less common in yellow compound more common in green compound for wet) which stretches over the full width of the 2.2 front wheel so there's no need to make them narrower.

Ah ok cheers for that. Ive sorted the wheels and tires for the rear, its just the front ones im struggling on now, ill have a look into that :) do you have a guid to trim the wheel?

Can i ask about you about lipo, esc and motor?

Sorry i am on a massive learning curve with all this at the moment haha

Ive just installed ETRONIX BRUSHLESS MOTOR/ESC COMBO 13T (to start with)

ESC Features;

Input: NiMH 4-8 cells & LiPO 2-3 cells & LiFe 2-3 cells
Output: Max 360 Watt, 54A at 54°C, 45A at 75°C, Peak 240A
Motor support: KV < 4500KV, 1:10 scale car
BEC: 5V / 2A
Net weight: 72g
Dimension: 48x33x29mm
Motor Features;

13.0R 3000KV
Max Amps: 33
Resistance: 0.0255
I0(A): 1.2
Shaft: 3.17mm
Weight: 172g
and ive got a 4000mah 2S 25c (50c burst) lipo

which give 100amps (i think)

would these be sufficient for the above setup?

many thanks again

chris

chris

[bigred5765]

They're kyosho wheels, as far as I know they only fit the rb5/6 possibly tamiya aswell. They are 12mm hex but have a different sized hole and offset to the 22 wheels which are also 12 mm Hex so be careful just coz it's 12 mm hex doesn't necessarily mean they'll fit.

There are two types of cut stagger, the low profile ones like in the pic (which are most common and you have to cut off the excess wheel from the inside to make the wheels narrower. And there's a higher profile cut stagger (less common in yellow compound more common in green compound for wet) which stretches over the full width of the 2.2 front wheel so there's no need to make them narrower.

ansman wheels fit as well gav

[Gavin Collingwood]

Do they?.. Good to know, prob cheaper too I bet Carl?

I run NVision 5500 90C lipos, orion R10 speedo and hpi flux 7.5R motor
Yeah that set up would be fine starting out you don't want to run a car that's too quick for you like so many people do, all you end up doing is crashing more often and usually harder. So you break it more and in the end you just end up with less track time and less practice so you don't improve your driving skills. You're doing the right thing pal, go with that set up until you feel going around the track consistently without making mistakes as fast as you can and only when you feel it's holding you back, get a quicker set up.
End of the day consistency is faster when you're learning, as supposed to a car that's too fast for you and losing 5-10 seconds everytime you crash and need a marshal to turn your car over.

[losichris]

Do they?.. Good to know, prob cheaper too I bet Carl?

I run NVision 5500 90C lipos, orion R10 speedo and hpi flux 7.5R motor
Yeah that set up would be fine starting out you don't want to run a car that's too quick for you like so many people do, all you end up doing is crashing more often and usually harder. So you break it more and in the end you just end up with less track time and less practice so you don't improve your driving skills. You're doing the right thing pal, go with that set up until you feel going around the track consistently without making mistakes as fast as you can and only when you feel it's holding you back, get a quicker set up.
End of the day consistency is faster when you're learning, as supposed to a car that's too fast for you and losing 5-10 seconds everytime you crash and need a marshal to turn your car over.

Exactly, plus when you first go and race dont be fooled by all the drivers having mega fast cars. If your in a lower heat and everyone is panning you down the straight, there more than likely going to crash alot at the end of it,and on other parts of the track cause the cars to quick to slow down.
Most of the top lads have been racing 10-20 years and have got their stuff dialled and their thumbs are very responsive. Best advice you will ever get is, slow the car right down until your getting round each lap without a mistake. Then talk to the fast guys and ask them for advice, you'll find they are a very nice bunch!

[Gavin Collingwood]

I am very nice thanks Chris haha

[Lee1972]

They're kyosho wheels, as far as I know they only fit the rb5/6 possibly tamiya aswell. They are 12mm hex but have a different sized hole and offset to the 22 wheels which are also 12 mm Hex so be careful just coz it's 12 mm hex doesn't necessarily mean they'll fit.

There are two types of cut stagger, the low profile ones like in the pic (which are most common and you have to cut off the excess wheel from the inside to make the wheels narrower. And there's a higher profile cut stagger (less common in yellow compound more common in green compound for wet) which stretches over the full width of the 2.2 front wheel so there's no need to make them narrower.

Gavin,
I thought the cut staggers were only available in the higher profile and as far as I'm aware you can still get the higher profile in yellow compound unless Schumacher have stopped supplying them?
Lee

[Si Coe]

I've got cuts in low and normal profile - both in yellow. However, as Gav says for all the jobs you want cut's for in yellow the lows work better than the normals. I've not tried green cuts in the wet, but I guess the idea is that in those circumstances normals work better than lows.

[Gavin Collingwood]

I may have been Misinformed but as far a I know they're harder to get hold of as they stopped making them? I could be wrong though

[bigred5765]

all still available
clicky (http://www.racing-cars.com/sp/abspage/2/category/Manufacturer/searchbox7/1-10_Buggy_Off_Road_Tyres/subcategory/Schumacher/templateid/12.html)

[rapidrubberwill]

Here is mine coming toooooo

[Gavin Collingwood]

Nice, mine's debut meeting is at southport mince pie meeting on Sunday and then next week at bury (Oldham). Bad a couple of wet runs at goshen and it's unbelievably good already light years better than the 22

[Lee1972]

Nice, mine's debut meeting is at southport mince pie meeting on Sunday and then next week at bury (Oldham). Bad a couple of wet runs at goshen and it's unbelievably good already light years better than the 22

I'll see you there me and my lad are going as he's trying out his B4 Vega :thumbsup:

[Chris Elworthy]

I will be at Southport to claim my free mince pie and give my 22 it's final run. I've ordered myself a new Sv2 but was so impressed with Gav's RB6 in the wet yesterday I'm considering sending the sv2 back and buying the Kyosho!! I just cannot decide!!

Chris

[Gavin Collingwood]

It was frighteningly good in such wet conditions, I've never driven a car in such wet conditions never mind it have so much grip! Cannot wait to try it in the dry

[Si Coe]

I do hope Eric's got a large stock of mince pies because tomorrow is going to be busy.....

[coleman758]

I love the Kyosho gear! The quality of the parts is fantastic.

I have 4 Kyosho's now, Just need an RB6 to finish the collection!

[Gavin Collingwood]

Get one Matt, unbelievable. I've basically been driving handicapped with the 22.

[VillageIdiot]

Nice looking buggy.

[Si Coe]

Gav's RB6 does look awesome on his pit table but so far thats all I've seen it do as he's
bust it!

[Gavin Collingwood]

Car was flying in practice! Stupid thing is si, the car comes with a spare block that I broke but I left it in the box at home thinking it was part of the rear motor build.... Idiot. Watch out next week in Oldham though the car is class!

[Cremegg]

Exactly, plus when you first go and race dont be fooled by all the drivers having mega fast cars. If your in a lower heat and everyone is panning you down the straight, there more than likely going to crash alot at the end of it,and on other parts of the track cause the cars to quick to slow down.
Most of the top lads have been racing 10-20 years and have got their stuff dialled and their thumbs are very responsive. Best advice you will ever get is, slow the car right down until your getting round each lap without a mistake. Then talk to the fast guys and ask them for advice, you'll find they are a very nice bunch!

I'm definitely gonna take it slow to start with, just waiting for some hop up parts and wheels and tyres and then I should be coming to a meet. Which inserts are best too? And can you use minipins for the front indooors?

Also, I have looked high and low on how to install cvds but can find anything? How do you take them out of the transmission? (The ones I have now are plastic telos coping but I've ordered some metal cvds)

Thanks again and I'm not trying to take over your thread haha

[Si Coe]

Most people run cut staggers up front instead of front minipins but you can get them and they do work.
As for the CVD's - I've have to look at the car. Bring it to a meeting and we'll work it out. Plenty of time between races.

Gav - You should know its never good when there are spares in the box. The only reason to do that is if someone knows you are going to need it!

[Cremegg]

Hi Si

Thank you very much for that, the parts should be with me some time in January. Hopefully before Sunday :) if not then it will be the next meet in February. If you show me then I 'll be able to do it myself in future, there's alot to take in but I'm getting there slowly bit surely with the basics haha

I've installed the brushless system with lipos, and it makes a massive difference from NIMH

[Gavin Collingwood]

As it turns out si, id put the wrong rear block on the car that fit but was really flimsy looking. The correct one (which is really thick and chunky is now installed and should be fine. I blame the japs! Why give me a part that fits but doesn't belong to the car? Haha

[coleman758]

Just read the instructions properly?

[Si Coe]

Real men don't read instructions!

[Gavin Collingwood]

All well and good saying that Matt but it's very easily done the parts are almost identical!

[Cremegg]

Sorry to be a pain in the A*** again but can I ask some more advice about charging lipos?

I've read a lot of stuff on the subject and following it to the T

I have just got the GT POWER A606D charger and 2 x 4000mah 2S 25C Lipo (Gens Ace)

When charging the batteries they read at 4.20 and 4.16/7/8 then the 2nd cell fluctuates between these numbers and the charge never completes so I take it off, I'm charging at 2.0A for now (as a few forums have said to try charging at a lower rate as they are new)

It sometimes reaches 4.20 4.20 and when the current drops to 0.1A the 2nd cell as I said keeps fluctuation between 4.16/7/8

Is this normal ? It just never reaches full 4.20 4.20. Could this be a faulty pack? (Bought from giantshark)

Thanks Again

[coleman758]

Most charges have a limit on them, So they never fully charge the cells.
You can remove it, Read the instructions.

But to be honest I wouldent worry.

Charge them on 2s 7.4v 4.0amps, that's the norm.
You could charge a little higher. I charge all my buggy packs at 5.0amps.
Although all my cells are Orion 5500Mah.

[Si Coe]

I've had packs do that - just run it for a bit (but don't completely discharge so say 5 mins running or so) and try again.
Not quite sure why it happens, but that fixed it for me.

Oh, and TBH I only balance charge every 10 or so charges these days. The charger I use at race meetings doesn't actually do balancing, so I need to use my older charger for that which is why its not done often. Even so they are rarely if ever out of balance - probably because in a typical race we use no more than a quarter of the available capacity.

[Cremegg]

Cheers guys for that

I have run the pack I'm talking about down to about 3.8v per cell give or take, charged it back up but still not finishing of the balance.

Is it ok to take them off is there is say a 0.03mv difference?

I've had one occurance that the charger came up CONTROL FAIL which this meant it needs replacing but it still continued to work fine and it's a brand new charger

Is it best just to run the pack a few times? LVC is set at 3.5v per cell (this is the highest it goes)

Cheers again

[Si Coe]

Some packs do seem to improve after a few charges.

My older charger has been flashing up odd error messages for years but it still works and no lipos have exploded on me so I'd say nothing to worry about.

0.03mv is insignificant enough it shouldn't be an issue. In normal use even perfectly balanced cells will likely be that far apart under load anyway.

Set the LVC as high as you can but its not an issue when racing as in a typical race you'll only use about 1000-1500mAh. Its useful for practice, bashing or if you forgot to charge only!
BTW don't forget when you finish to disconnect the battery. LVC only stops the motor, but power is still drawn to the reciever and servo, so leaving the car on can still kill the lipo.

[JonyNitro]

I charge at 7 amps:D your lipo's will be fine they will even out over time, plus 25c for racing not that great

[Cremegg]

I charge at 7 amps:D your lipo's will be fine they will even out over time, plus 25c for racing not that great

Ok ill give them a few runs and see how they pan out.

Im a begginer to this game so i dont want to be to fast at the moment. For me, at the moment, the car is quite rapid but as i get better i'll consider getting better lipos

which is better for racing?

cheers

[JonyNitro]

Ok ill give them a few runs and see how they pan out.

Im a begginer to this game so i dont want to be to fast at the moment. For me, at the moment, the car is quite rapid but as i get better i'll consider getting better lipos

which is better for racing?

cheers

you already have Gens Ace lipo which are very good,just get the higher C rated ones next time like these
this charger is far better
http://www.giantshark.co.uk/icharger-106bplus-250w-balancecharger-p-404527.html

lipo's
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__24308__Turnigy_nano_tech_A_SPEC_5600mah_2S_65_13 0C_Hardcase_Lipo_Saddle_Pack.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17266__Turnigy_nano_tech_5100mah_2S3P_65_135C_Ha rdcase_Lipo_Saddle_Pack.html
even cheaper
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17274__Turnigy_nano_tech_5000mah_2S3P_30_60C_Har dcase_Saddle_Lipo_Pack_ROAR_APPROVED_.html

[Cremegg]

Cheers for that pal

The charger that you mention. Do you have to buy a seperate power supply with it?

[JonyNitro]

Cheers for that pal

The charger that you mention. Do you have to buy a seperate power supply with it?

You do BUT! I have the 208B icharger and I have had it over 3 yrs now,and its still gets used every week, I have a Power supply coming up forsale soon a Muchmore one

buy once and once only the outlay is maybe higher but will last years

[Gavin Collingwood]

I charge at 5.5 amp so you'll be fine

[JonyNitro]

I charge at 5.5 amp so you'll be fine

Not with a 50 watt charger you wont!

[Cremegg]

cheers

the funny thing is, the packs are new, had about 2 runs each of of them, and the 1st time i charged them they balanced fine

im gonna charge/discharge them tonight and see what happens to them, ill do it at 1C and leave it till the charger finishes

[Howler]

Charging rates depend on the specific battery, they usually seem to say "up to 5c", what this means is you can charge a 2000 at 5x2amps, so 10 amps, but if it's a 5000 you can charge at 5x5amps, 25 amps. Check your battery label and any instructions that came with them. Generally, most chargers aren't capable of charging lipos as fast as the batteries can handle.

The 25c on your packs is the discharge rate, the higher the discharge rate the more power a pack can put out when the ESC asks for it. When you get to a really fast motor you'll ant 50c+ but yours should be fine for now. Again, as with the charge rate the c is for capacity, so it basically mean 25x4amps, so you batteries can output 100 amps constant, they should be able to do a little more for short bursts, but often that figure isn't documented.

Ultimately, if you have too low a discharge rates you'll damage the batteries, possibly blow them up. Before that happens you'll notice them getting hot, but it wont happen with a 13t in a 2wd, especially with your Etronix ESC as that would go first as it's only rated at 54 amps.

[JonyNitro]

Here go just a quicky, very good info
https://sites.google.com/site/tjinguytech/charging-how-tos/wattage-for-charging

[Cremegg]

Ive sent an email to Giantshark to see what they say about the charger, see if they will exchange it

it keeps coming up with CONTROL FALURE (thats not a spelling mistake haha) when nearing the

can anyone recommend a decent ac/dc charger?

thanks

[Gavin Collingwood]

The latest core rc charger is brilliant. And at £60 a bargain. Woody is using it too so it can't be bad...

[JonyNitro]

The latest core rc charger is brilliant. And at £60 a bargain. Woody is using it too so it can't be bad...

far cheaper at Modelsport and since je spares has took all our % away why shop and get no discount cheers RY

Core is Schumacher

[Cremegg]

cheers guys

do you have a link for this charger

[Gavin Collingwood]

At what point did I mention JE?... By mentioning woody I was implying that if the core rc charger is good enough for an F1 driver it's good enough for us. Personally I'm not bothered where he buys it from.

[JonyNitro]

cheers guys

do you have a link for this charger

did you read my link?? obviously not

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-uac50-charger-12v-110-240v-6a/rc-car-products/365880

[Gavin Collingwood]

It's the core uac-50 put it in google

[Gavin Collingwood]

But seen as I know you like 10 mins away from JE it makes more sense to buy it from there as supposed to buying from a shop that's bloody miles away

[JonyNitro]

At what point did I mention JE?... By mentioning woody I was implying that if the core rc charger is good enough for an F1 driver it's good enough for us. Personally I'm not bothered where he buys it from.

He is good but K1 though Wo0dy:cry::lol:haha

Can't recall if you did or not mention Je

[JonyNitro]

But seen as I know you like 10 mins away from JE it makes more sense to buy it from there as supposed to buying from a shop that's bloody miles away

They will price match it for you? so same price come on now wakey,wakey,haha

[Si Coe]

Good luck complaining to Giant Shark. The Shark part of the name comes from their dreadful returns policy which actually breaks UK law. Make enough of a fuss and they will eventually refund because as I said UK sales law demands it, but expect a fight first.

Core chargers are pretty decent - they have long been one of the most popular makes for chargers at UK meets.

[Chris Elworthy]

I agree with Gavin (for once!) you may as well get the charger from your local shop that is JE. Jony, I cannot see how you think you can get the charger cheaper at Modelsport, they retail at around £60 quid wherever you buy them then you would have to pay postage costs and wait a few days for it to arrive, seems illogical with such a good shop so close.

Don't get me wrong I have no affiliation with JE Models whatsoever but supporting your local shop is very important. We in this area are very very lucky to have a shop with such a good range of products at competitive prices on our doorstep meaning allowing us up easily get hold of parts and tyres when we need them without having to wait for mail order.
For years I raced having to order from Apex, Modelsport and the like and JE has made it a breeze that nearly all racers across the country would envy such convenience.

Jony appears to have a vendetta against JE for them not honouring club discount anymore, big deal! They are still as cheap as anywhere else.

Support your local shops, we would all miss them if they weren't there.


Over and out

Chris

[JonyNitro]

I agree with Gavin (for once!) you may as well get the charger from your local shop that is JE. Jony, I cannot see how you think you can get the charger cheaper at Modelsport, they retail at around £60 quid wherever you buy them then you would have to pay postage costs and wait a few days for it to arrive, seems illogical with such a good shop so close.

Don't get me wrong I have no affiliation with JE Models whatsoever but supporting your local shop is very important. We in this area are very very lucky to have a shop with such a good range of products at competitive prices on our doorstep meaning allowing us up easily get hold of parts and tyres when we need them without having to wait for mail order.
For years I raced having to order from Apex, Modelsport and the like and JE has made it a breeze that nearly all racers across the country would envy such convenience.

Jony appears to have a vendetta against JE for them not honouring club discount anymore, big deal! They are still as cheap as anywhere else.

Support your local shops, we would all miss them if they weren't there.


Over and out

Chris

I only buy from Je and a recent purchase? and Modelsport have them for £45 or are you blind?Wo0dy/Nic will price match for you So saving cash and still buying from Local. Vendetta not at all just moaning about it.

[Cremegg]

Good luck complaining to Giant Shark. The Shark part of the name comes from their dreadful returns policy which actually breaks UK law. Make enough of a fuss and they will eventually refund because as I said UK sales law demands it, but expect a fight first.

Core chargers are pretty decent - they have long been one of the most popular makes for chargers at UK meets.

Are they that bad? a guy who i work with uses these and says there very good.

Im not looking for a refund for now, just a replacement as it maybe faulty and if that one messes up then ill ask for a refund

JE models are out of stock of them core chargers :(

eventually if they do refund back, ill have a look into that core charger from modelsport

[Chris Elworthy]

Fair enough pal.

[Cremegg]

hi guys

i guess this is bad?

Ive charged and used both batteries tonight and run them through the buggy Both lipos ran down to 3.7v/cell

charged back up and the following has happened (see pictures)

does this look like a charger or battery issue?

cheers

EDIT - sorry there abit small but cell 1 shows 4.22 and cell 2 shows 4.11

[Gavin Collingwood]

Can't read that, also you shouldn't run the lipos down to the low voltage cut off. The LVC is a last resort really like a fail safe and it isn't a great idea to let it cut off very often. What you should do is drive the car and about a lap or two before the LVC kicks in you'll notice the car feel 'soft' (accelerating slower) what to do then is stop the car and take it off the track.

[Cremegg]

Can't read that, also you shouldn't run the lipos down to the low voltage cut off. The LVC is a last resort really like a fail safe and it isn't a great idea to let it cut off very often. What you should do is drive the car and about a lap or two before the LVC kicks in you'll notice the car feel 'soft' (accelerating slower) what to do then is stop the car and take it off the track.

cheers mate

its showing cell 1 at 4.22 and cell 2 at 4.11

im guess thats bad

[Gavin Collingwood]

4.22? Volt I'm presuming? And they won't charge anymore?

[Cremegg]

yer

i think the charger must be broke because from the charge cycles its done its never finished

new charger time me thinks

[Gavin Collingwood]

I never cycle or discharge as they don't need it like nimh do. I just keep charging it and every so often I balance them

[Cremegg]

oh sorry no i mean by charge cycle as in charging the battery back up

i ran it down by bashing it on the street tonight

then charged it back up to see them abnormal voltages

[Gavin Collingwood]

Did you run it flat?? Or low voltage cut off?

[Cremegg]

i ran both packs to 3.7 per cell

balanced charged back up and it showed 4.20 and 4.16 on both packs

i doubt both packs are faulty. seems cell 2 never gets to 4.20

funny thing is the charger when on the status screen shows 8.40v but the voltages shown amounts to 8.34

[Gavin Collingwood]

And know it seems obvious but 4.2V per cell is normal X that by 2 and it's a peak voltage of 8.4V. I don't see a problem? Are they working fine?

[Cremegg]

yer the packs are working fine i just cant understand why they are noy balancing out when it comes to the end of the charge

could they be faulty packs

is 0,10mv quite bad?

i thought lipos balanced out to 4.20 4.20 but this never happens

the packs always show 4.20 and either 4.18/4,17/4.16...i usually just take them off when the charge drops to 0.1a

cheers

[Cremegg]

Does anyone know if this is a good charger?

B6AC 80W Balance Nicad/NIMH, Lipoly Charger

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/b6ac-balance-nicadnimh-lipoly-charger-p-406695.html

thanks

[Gavin Collingwood]

Mate I think you're worrying about nothing, if they work fine there's no problem. I don't think that small amount is a big deal. I'd only worry if they're swollen or on fire

[Cremegg]

i know mate, i do panic about stuff like this incase it goes wrong haha.

finally got some racing dish wheels/tyres and inserts today, got them FOC from a friend whos just build the asmann mad rat, not checked if they fit yet but looks like they will

the tyres on the rear look like minipins too?

cheers

[Cremegg]

Can anyone recommend this charger?

Thinking of getting this one from Preston an its In my price range for now

http://www.overlander.co.uk/batteries-chargers/battery-chargers/overlander-rc-6s-ac-dc-balance-charger-1283.html


Overlander Balance ChargerAC/DC RC-6S 80 watt

Cheers

[Gavin Collingwood]

Didn't you listen to what I said? there's nothin wrong with your charger. And there is nothing wrong with your lipos. If you wanna invest your money in anything it should be good tools and spares as you're probably gonna need both as you're learning

[bigred5765]

i know mate, i do panic about stuff like this incase it goes wrong haha.

finally got some racing dish wheels/tyres and inserts today, got them FOC from a friend who's just build the asmann mad rat, not checked if they fit yet but looks like they will

the tyres on the rear look like minipins too?

cheers
someone on here already said he charges 6-10 times before he then balances, you cant tell if there slightly out in that mode

[losichris]

Come along on sunday and speak to us. I think your over thinking things.
The modern lipos/chargers are very versatile, all you should be doing is plugging it in and pressing charge and wait till it says full.

[danmurphy]

i ran both packs to 3.7 per cell

balanced charged back up and it showed 4.20 and 4.16 on both packs

i doubt both packs are faulty. seems cell 2 never gets to 4.20

funny thing is the charger when on the status screen shows 8.40v but the voltages shown amounts to 8.34

From the screenshots of your charger, looks similar to the Turnigy one I have software/hardware wise. Check if there's a calibration procedure for the charger. I had a similar problem and calibrating the charger with a decent meter solved the problem. Do they peak when balance charging?

[Cremegg]

Didn't you listen to what I said? there's nothin wrong with your charger. And there is nothing wrong with your lipos. If you wanna invest your money in anything it should be good tools and spares as you're probably gonna need both as you're learning

I am mate, sorry I was just abit paranoid about them funny voltages, ive left it now and just go to run them as normal.

I've got a few tools such as drivers and other bits

Cheers

[Cremegg]

From the screenshots of your charger, looks similar to the Turnigy one I have software/hardware wise. Check if there's a calibration procedure for the charger. I had a similar problem and calibrating the charger with a decent meter solved the problem. Do they peak when balance charging?

No the charger never finishes them. One of the cells between 4.18/7/6 and keeps going up an down until the timer cuts the charger off

I've left it for now and just use them as normal

I can live with it haha

[Lee1972]

I use an Imax B6 charger which cost me about £ 28.00 off Ebay works perfectly fine and charges both cells to 4.2v, I once had a battery which had shorted and would only charge one cell to 4.2v and the other to around 4.1v as you're experiencing the same issue with both sets of batteries I'd be inclined to think that there maybe an issue with your charger. However I'm no expert on this and it's probably advisable to contact the supplier and ask them if this is normal with the charger which you've purchased and what if any effect it may have on your batteries and if there is a problem with the charger can it be put right.

[Cremegg]

I use an Imax B6 charger which cost me about £ 28.00 off Ebay works perfectly fine and charges both cells to 4.2v, I once had a battery which had shorted and would only charge one cell to 4.2v and the other to around 4.1v as you're experiencing the same issue with both sets of batteries I'd be inclined to think that there maybe an issue with your charger. However I'm no expert on this and it's probably advisable to contact the supplier and ask them if this is normal with the charger which you've purchased and what if any effect it may have on your batteries and if there is a problem with the charger can it be put right.

I've had a few people say it's the charger and a few saying its the batteries packs, that's from a few people at work too.

I've sent it back for a refund now...trial and error I guess

I've seen this overlander charger so I might get that one, its an 80w and its £35,
I posted a link a few posts ago

[Howler]

I've had a few people say it's the charger and a few saying its the batteries packs, that's from a few people at work too.

I've sent it back for a refund now...trial and error I guess

I've seen this overlander charger so I might get that one, its an 80w and its £35,
I posted a link a few posts ago

The Overlander stuff is usually ok.

[Cremegg]

The Overlander stuff is usually ok.

Cheers howler, I'll give this one a whirl tomorrow and leave it

Thanks again

[danmurphy]

No the charger never finishes them. One of the cells between 4.18/7/6 and keeps going up an down until the timer cuts the charger off

I've left it for now and just use them as normal

I can live with it haha

That's exactly the issue I had. The pack voltage saw 8.4v but one cell would be about 0.04v out and they wouldn't cut off. I calibrated the charger and the problem vanished and now all my cells balance charge and cut-off at 4.2v/cell

[Cremegg]

That's exactly the issue I had. The pack voltage saw 8.4v but one cell would be about 0.04v out and they wouldn't cut off. I calibrated the charger and the problem vanished and now all my cells balance charge and cut-off at 4.2v/cell

I've just got a new charger, with the old charger and stored the batteries, an when connecting to the new charger it shows 4.00 and 3.88???

Think something may of been wrong there possibly?

UPDATE - the new charger has charged them perfectly and balanced them to (charger actually finished)...looks like it was the charger :)

[Cremegg]

Didn't you listen to what I said? there's nothin wrong with your charger. And there is nothing wrong with your lipos. If you wanna invest your money in anything it should be good tools and spares as you're probably gonna need both as you're learning

what basic tools do you recommend?

[Howler]

Allen wrenches, if it uses hex hardware, spanners for any nuts on it, should be enough for now.

[Cremegg]

Allen wrenches, if it uses hex hardware, spanners for any nuts on it, should be enough for now.

Ah ok I've got a set of hex drivers, a screwdriver set and a mini socket set. The buggy i have has mostly Phillips screws on