Bury 2013 Summer Dates

[birdy]

Here's the planned Bury Summer dates :thumbsup:

24th March - Moorside Round 7 (Last of Indoor)
31st March - Goshen track - Fun
14th April - Goshen track R1 Club Championship
28th April - Goshen track - Fun
12th May - Goshen track R2 Club Championship
26th May - Goshen track - Fun
9th June - Goshen track R3 Club Championship
23rd June - Goshen track - Fun
07th July - Goshen track R4 Club Championship
14th July - Bury Regional
28th July - Goshen track R5 Club Championship
11th August - Goshen track - Fun
25th August - Goshen track- Fun
8th September - Goshen track - R6 Club Championship
22nd September - Goshen track R7 Club Championship
6th October - Goshen track - Fun
20th October - Goshen track R8 Club Championship
03rd November - Goshen track - Fun

[danmurphy]

Do the Fun dates involve any timed heats or will it just be open practice?

[Chris Elworthy]

Looks good to me Birdy. The fun days will still be a regular day's racing with heats and finals but there will be no points scored for the day. At the club championship meetings however you will be awarded points towards the championship dependant on where you finish on the day and I'd expect trophies may be awarded at the end of the season- please correct me if I'm wrong Birdy.


Chris

[Darren Wales]

Looks good to me Birdy. The fun days will still be a regular day's racing with heats and finals but there will be no points scored for the day. At the club championship meetings however you will be awarded points towards the championship dependant on where you finish on the day and I'd expect trophies may be awarded at the end of the season- please correct me if I'm wrong Birdy.


Chris

Your not wrong Chris.

The championship will be best 5 of 8 or similar and we will be awarding trophies and potentially prizes too! for overall winners, best young driver, most improved driver etc to keep up the interest and attendance. :thumbsup:

The fun days will have timed races, but as Chris says no points will be awarded or count towards the championship. :)

Darren

[Howler]

Website calendar sorted too.

[Gavin Collingwood]

This is fantastic news, it'll make bury metro seen as more of a racing venue for racers rather than a racing venue with bashers which unfortunately i think this is how we are/were seen by other clubs.
Onwards and upwards for bury metro!

[birdy]

Yes we will change that Gav.

Glad to see that interest has been brought with the championship.

Hold tight for some sponsorship news soon.

[budfish]

It had gone to the bashers over the last 2 years

[Si Coe]

Impossible - you weren't racing :p

[budfish]

Your joking I nearly won 2011 bury summer series but was on holiday for the last round so I think bains won by default !

[Si Coe]

You mean the 4wd class only you and Bains actually took part in more than one race for? The one that never had more than a single heat all series?

The 2wd series was, is and always will be where its at.

[Chris Elworthy]

Should be a good battle in 2wd for top honours....provided Woody doesn't turn up ha!


Chris

[birdy]

4wd is we're its at this season at Bury ;-)

[Darren Wales]

2wd, 4wd and even SC is where it will be at Bury this season if people want it! :thumbsup:

[johnnygibbon]

4wd is we're its at this season at Bury ;-)

gotta agree birdy ,i need an xb4
also iv ordered some templates for the grid so we can repaint em as and when is needed

[birdy]

gotta agree birdy ,i need an xb4
also iv ordered some templates for the grid so we can repaint em as and when is needed

Nice one, Johnny.

[losichris]

Glad we've sorted dates, and a little championship is something the club has been lacking for a few years

[Gavin Collingwood]

2wd or 4.... Got both innit

[losichris]

2wd or 4.... Got both innit

4wd for me :)

[Chris Elworthy]

2 wheels on my wagon! The driver's class ha!

Chris

[rapidrubberwill]

any one got any good setups for bury for a sv2 because after watching the other sv2 go round last time mine is well of being setup right :thumbdown:

[Gavin Collingwood]

4wd for me :)

Chris I'm disappointed in you, you have a 2wd yet you're gonna do only 4? 2wd is the true test of off road. 4wd it's almost too easy, granted the power is fun. I'm gonna try to run both mostly but main priority is 2

[Gavin Collingwood]

any one got any good setups for bury for a sv2 because after watching the other sv2 go round last time mine is well of being setup right :thumbdown:

Either see woody or Chris Elworthy they'll help you

[losichris]

Chris I'm disappointed in you, you have a 2wd yet you're gonna do only 4? 2wd is the true test of off road. 4wd it's almost too easy, granted the power is fun. I'm gonna try to run both mostly but main priority is 2

Having a few niggling issues with my 2wd.
Both times ive raced 4wd since i got it ive had fun.
To be honest outdoors my 2wd did drive very nice despite my hands being frozen! Plan was to concentrate 2wd regionals

[Chris Elworthy]

Will, the kit setup for the sv2 is way off for astro and I found it very pointy and inconsistent. My car is now feeling much more like it but you will need to spend around £40-50 quid to get the car feeling predictable. I will list the parts you need below then you can start fitting them before we get into the setup side.

Most important is the carbon link mount option set, part no U3998. This is a set of 5 different plates in different lengths for tuning with your camber links. You may stick with the same one from the set but unfortunately they only sell these as part of the £18 set.
- also get hold of some 5degree yokes as these will calm the front end down.
- the standard pistons are also no good so get hold of the 3 hole pistons for front and rear.
- your gonna need to get a set of extra long ball studs also, these come in a pack of 4. I will explain later what these are for.
- finally when using the wider front camber plates I mentioned earlier the standard front turnbuckles are too long so you will need shorter ones. I got the 3mm 1 7/8" titanium turnbuckles fromDMS racing which do the trick but to be honest any 3mm turnbuckle between 45-50mm should do the job.

These items are necessary before you can really start dialling the car in. I hated mine after the first few outings but after a bit of modding its probably the best handling 2wd I've driven.


Chris

[Gavin Collingwood]

Most important is the carbon link mount option set, part no U3998. This is a set of 5 different plates in different lengths for tuning with your camber links. You may stick with the same one from the set but unfortunately they only sell these as part of the £18 set.



Chris

Same old schumacher got you by the balls again...

[coleman758]

Kyosho is were its at boys :D

[Gavin Collingwood]

Kyosho is were its at boys :D

I'll second that

[coleman758]

I've got a full Kyosho arsenal now haha!

RB5
RB5 Gen1 Vega
RB5 Gen2 Vega
RB5 MCS (Mid Custom Special)
Rudebits DB1

5 of the best 2WD's money can buy!!

[Gavin Collingwood]

Matt your missing the best one....... Gotta have the RB6

[coleman758]

I'm not convinced yet Gavin.

I need too see some more in action!
The RB5 based gear for me is fantastic. & I have more spares than Il ever need haha! plus everything is interchangeable.

The MCS is the best, I love it! Just don't wanna kill it... Its one of 30 ever made

[Gavin Collingwood]

You see this year they'll be up there. Not seen a bad one going round yet, plus they're so tough as well as being fast... dangerous combination

[losichris]

Will, the kit setup for the sv2 is way off for astro and I found it very pointy and inconsistent. My car is now feeling much more like it but you will need to spend around £40-50 quid to get the car feeling predictable. I will list the parts you need below then you can start fitting them before we get into the setup side.

Most important is the carbon link mount option set, part no U3998. This is a set of 5 different plates in different lengths for tuning with your camber links. You may stick with the same one from the set but unfortunately they only sell these as part of the £18 set.
- also get hold of some 5degree yokes as these will calm the front end down.
- the standard pistons are also no good so get hold of the 3 hole pistons for front and rear.
- your gonna need to get a set of extra long ball studs also, these come in a pack of 4. I will explain later what these are for.
- finally when using the wider front camber plates I mentioned earlier the standard front turnbuckles are too long so you will need shorter ones. I got the 3mm 1 7/8" titanium turnbuckles fromDMS racing which do the trick but to be honest any 3mm turnbuckle between 45-50mm should do the job.

These items are necessary before you can really start dialling the car in. I hated mine after the first few outings but after a bit of modding its probably the best handling 2wd I've driven.


Chris

have to agree with this, very nice car to drive but you really need to listen to advice and get the changes done. car is a little off putting if not setup right.
one biggie for me is adding weight, really settles the car down, trishbits do nice brass or get sticky lead for cheaper option

[Alan Reeves]

And if your really struggling with it like I have been check your chassis is not bent like a banana :blush: the main reason i never got a centro and it must have happened first day out with the sv2 :(

[coleman758]

The DB1 is the best high grip astro car. PERIOD!
Its honestly the best car I have ever driven. That thing is like a missile.

I drove it once at Bury last season, And it was QUICK!

[rapidrubberwill]

cheers chris ill get the bits ordered tonight

[Si Coe]

At the new outdoor track I think 2wd works best. On the old track, and indoors 4wd was preferable but the current track just has SOOO much grip on a good day that I prefer 2wd there.
If you think about it, before I got my 210 I was running my old RC10 at the outdoor meetings in preference to my BMax because it was just too grippy.

That RC10 would be the one non-Kyosho 2wd STILL in Matt's possesion then.........

[Chris Elworthy]

Alan, I've noticed that the car can suffer from chassis tweak but I haven't experienced any actual bent chassis? The sv2 can easily start to suffer from strange characteristics due to the double deck chassis which makes chassis tweak more likely.
When fitting the Lipo's to the chassis only screw the top deck down with the front two screws and leave the rear screws out. The Lipo's will stay in place with only the two screws and will offer a little more rear flex therefore grip. When tightening the screws down on the top deck make sure you gently screw one side in a little, then do the other side before going back to the first screw then repeating the pattern little by little until you've tightened both down.

I know this might sound very anal for just putting your batteries in but if you screw one side tight down first this is a telltale way to induce tweak to the chassis which car make the car steer differently from left to right and not break in a straight line. I went out for a run and the car was all over the place so I took the top deck off and re fitted the screws and the car was miles better so give it a go.

As I said earlier the tolerances of the chassis are very rigid and precise so a tiny bit of tweak can throw everything out.


Chris

[rapidrubberwill]

I dont run any screws just clips i wonder if that may have something to do with it

[losichris]

Alan, I've noticed that the car can suffer from chassis tweak but I haven't experienced any actual bent chassis? The sv2 can easily start to suffer from strange characteristics due to the double deck chassis which makes chassis tweak more likely.
When fitting the Lipo's to the chassis only screw the top deck down with the front two screws and leave the rear screws out. The Lipo's will stay in place with only the two screws and will offer a little more rear flex therefore grip. When tightening the screws down on the top deck make sure you gently screw one side in a little, then do the other side before going back to the first screw then repeating the pattern little by little until you've tightened both down.

I know this might sound very anal for just putting your batteries in but if you screw one side tight down first this is a telltale way to induce tweak to the chassis which car make the car steer differently from left to right and not break in a straight line. I went out for a run and the car was all over the place so I took the top deck off and re fitted the screws and the car was miles better so give it a go.

As I said earlier the tolerances of the chassis are very rigid and precise so a tiny bit of tweak can throw everything out.


Chris

Stu told me to run no screws in , just 2 clips on the front and leave the rears out. Thought this may be a little too much flex? Ill speak to him about it next time

[Chris Elworthy]

I run the screws simply because the top deck bends when I try to push it down to use clips. I prefer to tighten the front two screws down until the deck starts to bend then stop. The gap between the chassis and top deck is a little bit too small for Orion 90c Lipo's I find without the chassis flexing, Woody only suggested the clips for ease of removing the batteries it's nothing to do with handling.


Chris

[Gavin Collingwood]

The DB1 is the best high grip astro car. PERIOD!
Its honestly the best car I have ever driven. That thing is like a missile.

I drove it once at Bury last season, And it was QUICK!

But it'll be crap in the wet.. We live in England

[coleman758]

But it'll be crap in the wet.. We live in England

:woot: -- Maybe....

Although, Then I will break the vega out....


But for that one baking hot sunday.

[Alan Reeves]

Chris it was actually bent nr the very back, only slightly but I believe now that this has been the main reason I have struggled with mine.



Alan, I've noticed that the car can suffer from chassis tweak but I haven't experienced any actual bent chassis? The sv2 can easily start to suffer from strange characteristics due to the double deck chassis which makes chassis tweak more likely.
When fitting the Lipo's to the chassis only screw the top deck down with the front two screws and leave the rear screws out. The Lipo's will stay in place with only the two screws and will offer a little more rear flex therefore grip. When tightening the screws down on the top deck make sure you gently screw one side in a little, then do the other side before going back to the first screw then repeating the pattern little by little until you've tightened both down.

I know this might sound very anal for just putting your batteries in but if you screw one side tight down first this is a telltale way to induce tweak to the chassis which car make the car steer differently from left to right and not break in a straight line. I went out for a run and the car was all over the place so I took the top deck off and re fitted the screws and the car was miles better so give it a go.

As I said earlier the tolerances of the chassis are very rigid and precise so a tiny bit of tweak can throw everything out.


Chris