View Full Version : Original RC10 re-release
jimmy
01-06-2013, 11:17 PM
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/news/rc10classic1x.png
Associated have confirmed a re-release of the original rc10 gold pan car. Using the same photo with prototype parts as they did back in the day - the actual car will likely look a little different to the photo.
Having the pleasure of owning two new build gold tub cars myself, I have to wonder what the price on these will be and how limited the number will be. My last new boxed kit was missing 3 wheels and some turnbuckles but it cost $15. Around 12 years ago someone was selling original boxed rc10's on ebay, loads of them, and they fetched good money at first, for the desperate collectors. In the end they were going for $100-$150usd
These things are surely damn nice to have in your collection if you're a collector - but I have to wonder how big the market is for the car. Still - people are moving back to scale cars in numbers - and a buggy that looks like a buggy is never a bad thing. I'll be saving my pennies for one, that's for sure.
Robby
02-06-2013, 01:04 AM
Confirmed - http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2013/06/01/rcxclusive-associated-brings-back-the-original-rc10/
I can't wait to see people fight trying to get a 6-gear tranny to work, and then find out how miserable these cars were in comparison.
:woot:
mark christopher
02-06-2013, 08:44 AM
Would have preferred a stealth rerelease,
stegger
02-06-2013, 09:01 AM
Would have preferred a stealth rerelease,
The stealth gearbox is coming out later Mark, chassis will be pre-drilled ;-)
jimmy
02-06-2013, 10:23 AM
Any guesses on price? I'd like to say under £200, if it's a lot more then theres a tiny market.
Will it come with wiperboard and croc clips for charging? :lol:
Boxed, well, its new so the value to me is a built shelf queen - unless it's cheap enough to be raced, in which case I think some strictly controlled special class would be great. But spares etc, it could never happen I don't think.
stegger
02-06-2013, 10:37 AM
Rumours are around $250 Jimmy
AfroP
02-06-2013, 12:23 PM
Any guesses on price? I'd like to say under £200, if it's a lot more then theres a tiny market.
Will it come with wiperboard and croc clips for charging? :lol:
Boxed, well, its new so the value to me is a built shelf queen - unless it's cheap enough to be raced, in which case I think some strictly controlled special class would be great. But spares etc, it could never happen I don't think.
be great to have them running in a class of they're own. stock class limited to 13.5t
terry.sc
02-06-2013, 01:10 PM
But spares etc, it could never happen I don't think.Spares have never been much of a problem and Associated have said there will be spares backup. The RC10 Protech and Viper bodies have always been available from Associated and it was only when Thunder Tiger took over that the last original spares finally disappeared.
I suspect JC will have a sudden surge in demand for their 2.2" RC10 wheels that are still in production, as well as the MIP CVDs.
jimmy
02-06-2013, 03:06 PM
Spares have never been much of a problem and Associated have said there will be spares backup. The RC10 Protech and Viper bodies have always been available from Associated and it was only when Thunder Tiger took over that the last original spares finally disappeared.
I suspect JC will have a sudden surge in demand for their 2.2" RC10 wheels that are still in production, as well as the MIP CVDs.
Having done this 13 years ago, order direct, yep it was no problem for plastics. It's all gone afaik.
$250 or £200 and I would be tempted. I already have a lovely original 6gear so a shelf or boxed car really ain't interesting to me. But I'd happily incorporate a strict rc10 class into all our races. None of yer long front arms, mip steering or mip gearboxes or hyperdrives or tekin mid conversions or trailing suspension conversions etc. Box standard with a reasonable motor 17.5 or 13.5.
It would have a very limited appeal as a nostalgic re-re because those that want them, have them.
jimmy
02-06-2013, 03:14 PM
Spares wise, ive looked for 13 years for some gold shock caps for my ce2
:eh?:
mark christopher
02-06-2013, 05:03 PM
The stealth gearbox is coming out later Mark, chassis will be pre-drilled ;-)
Meant the later kit in black
terry.sc
02-06-2013, 05:25 PM
$250 or £200 and I would be tempted.
Tower are listing it at $250 for preorders (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDPNE&P=7):woot:
It would have a very limited appeal as a nostalgic re-re because those that want them, have them.You would think so, I'm the same in that I'm not that interested in one as I already have a couple that get run hard and I still race the CE on the odd occasions I race 2wd buggy.
But there are loads of people who for some reason won't buy an original even though if you look hard enough you can get a runner for £50-60 because they only want an NIB one which means expensive, and they can't order spares easily. These are happy to pay for the rerelease.
andys
02-06-2013, 05:57 PM
Awesome.
Never had one as a kid - could never afford it :(
Hope they are 'reasonable' money this time around.
Dan the Man
02-06-2013, 07:08 PM
I think I'll buy one to race stock class in.....just to be different :woot:
jimmy
02-06-2013, 07:16 PM
Tower are listing it at $250 for preorders (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDPNE&P=7):woot:
You would think so, I'm the same in that I'm not that interested in one as I already have a couple that get run hard and I still race the CE on the odd occasions I race 2wd buggy.
But there are loads of people who for some reason won't buy an original even though if you look hard enough you can get a runner for £50-60 because they only want an NIB one which means expensive, and they can't order spares easily. These are happy to pay for the rerelease.
If that translates to £200 or less it'll be a winner. I must say I have a nib DEX210 but the next newest nib buggy I have is probably something like an intruder addonis.
I'd be well up for integrating a proper rc10 class into our races - keeping it controlled and not too fast (6 gear-box is a bit crap after all) so people can enjoy a bit of old school fun.
AE confirmed there will be full support and parts so it seems like they'd happily see these being raced.
Just need proline to release some 1.5inch (or whatever they are) high profile holeshots :) for the RHR dirt track.
jimmy
02-06-2013, 07:27 PM
If it's supported and if people will stick to a set of rules to make racing properly even - then I'd really like to see an rc10 class. I'd race it.
Twister
02-06-2013, 07:54 PM
Well for an old man with an 40-year crisis i might do the trick ;)
I raced one of these with a reedy stockmotor and sanyo scr:s
Good times :) it must have been around 1984? Looong time ago :woot:
neallewis
02-06-2013, 09:07 PM
If it's supported and if people will stick to a set of rules to make racing properly even - then I'd really like to see an rc10 class. I'd race it.
I want to get one to race, stock 13.5 (or 17.5), blinky mode ESC, one make class. would love that. I'll be ordering one anyway and will run it. not bothered about shelfqueens or nib. its made to be raced.
Had a go of an old one recently in Cullingworth, and it was ace. Really drivable on the slippy floor, with a 27turn stock motor.
Robby
03-06-2013, 12:39 AM
Having done this 13 years ago, order direct, yep it was no problem for plastics. It's all gone afaik.
$250 or £200 and I would be tempted. I already have a lovely original 6gear so a shelf or boxed car really ain't interesting to me. But I'd happily incorporate a strict rc10 class into all our races. None of yer long front arms, mip steering or mip gearboxes or hyperdrives or tekin mid conversions or trailing suspension conversions etc. Box standard with a reasonable motor 17.5 or 13.5.
It would have a very limited appeal as a nostalgic re-re because those that want them, have them.
$250USD -or- £165 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDPNE&P=7
If you're going to make "a class" for them, then how about a 21.5 class - so their speed is more representative to the old reedy blue-labels, and you don't have people blowing up a 6-gear every week.
jimmy
03-06-2013, 02:06 AM
I'm sure it'll be a lot more than £165 for us poor Europeans - but £200 would be nice. Car is supposed to come out late summer in the shops so we'll see. Love to run a class alongside all our races, not just a 'feature' race but some proper heats of spec racing with strict as heck rules :)
I'd be well up for racing such a goldtub class if everyone is the same speed and its some close fun racing.
Aussie Top Force
03-06-2013, 07:39 AM
COOL! Still got my original RC-10 Graphite!
jimmy
03-06-2013, 12:45 PM
Who (in the UK I guess) would be up for racing a tightly controlled re-release original rc10 class? Possibly with some spec motor and esc that are inexpensive to buy. No upgrades or changes to the car?
I'm thinking the oOple Series and Invernational for starters and depending on interest 1 or two full heats of box-standard re-release cars doing battle with no one having an unfair advantage.
I think it could be a lot of fun.
If we discuss some rules now then those interested in racing what essentially would be a 'fun' class, then we can get an idea of numbers.
Speak up my friends :woot:
neallewis
03-06-2013, 12:49 PM
Who (in the UK I guess) would be up for racing a tightly controlled re-release original rc10 class? Possibly with some spec motor and esc that are inexpensive to buy. No upgrades or changes to the car?
I'm thinking the oOple Series and Invernational for starters and depending on interest 1 or two full heats of box-standard re-release cars doing battle with no one having an unfair advantage.
I think it could be a lot of fun.
If we discuss some rules now then those interested in racing what essentially would be a 'fun' class, then we can get an idea of numbers.
Speak up my friends :woot:
I am.
Chris Elworthy
03-06-2013, 01:20 PM
I could be tempted
Chris
peetbee
03-06-2013, 01:33 PM
Would it have to be a re-re or could I just use an original?
jimmy
03-06-2013, 01:58 PM
if it's an original original -short arms, 6 gear, no hopups then for sure. But there can't be many around that unmodified?
Once you get people putting things like mip steering on there it becomes unfair.
poopers
03-06-2013, 02:39 PM
I’ve just pre-ordered mine, now I’ve got to get a BRCA license so, if possible, I can race it. :woot: So excited by this. Keep trying to explain to people outside the hobby how cool it is!! :wub
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Robby
03-06-2013, 02:45 PM
if it's an original original -short arms, 6 gear, no hopups then for sure. But there can't be many around that unmodified?
Once you get people putting things like mip steering on there it becomes unfair.
I hear what you're saying, but - and not sure if you were around 'back in the day' - but the aftermarket steering was all but a necessity..... and I don't think most here have any idea what they'll be facing dealing with those gawd-awful 6-gear trannies. :lol::lol: :woot::lol::lol:
jameswilkinson7
03-06-2013, 03:16 PM
How many are being released? Its a limited edition isn't it?
peetbee
03-06-2013, 03:22 PM
if it's an original original -short arms, 6 gear, no hopups then for sure. But there can't be many around that unmodified?
Once you get people putting things like mip steering on there it becomes unfair.
I have two :blush:
Just noticed the re-re will have oilite bushings, would bearings be outlawed too?
poopers
03-06-2013, 03:34 PM
How many are being released? Its a limited edition isn't it?
<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:AllowPNG/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> According to the chat on RC10Talk only 2000 worldwide are being produced. It would be surprising if they went to the effort of tooling etc. just for such a short run.
Wild speculation, but maybe they’re doing a strictly limited run of the gen 1 car, then releasing something a little more ‘raceable’ later on.
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All we can do is hope :D
Si Coe
03-06-2013, 04:08 PM
When I built my first RC10 up (1987) the short arms and standard steering never made it on to the car. Most people assumed the long arms were stock as every RC10 had them.
So would I like an RC10 class? Yes, but not a box stock one. I'm fine with staying 6 gear even though the Stealth box really improved the car, and I agree with no trailing arms, 4wd etc but long arms and improved steering were basically required back in the day too.
J'MM'N
03-06-2013, 05:16 PM
Would like to see more vintage racing in general, not just a specific class related to one car.
jimmy
03-06-2013, 05:49 PM
You can use zipties - but mip steering? so 1 or 2 people will have it. hmmmm.
Long arms? Nah, didn't the short arms win the worlds? Craig Drescher ran the short arms at the EOS. My original came with short arms and my CE1 and CE2 both came with long arms I believe - but my CE2 now looks like an original rc10 but with a stealth gbox. It's either a limited class or it's not. Bushings - forsure those can be replaced - the 6 gear box doesn't really like bushings.
Just my suggestions - I think if you're gonna race an original rc10 it needs to be original. not a hop-up festival.
neallewis
03-06-2013, 09:24 PM
Mine is pre-ordered. I'll keep it standard, apart from replacing the oillite bushings, not having them at all.
jimmy
03-06-2013, 10:14 PM
I had a used 6 gear box that had been run on bushings - it was a right mess :yawn:
terry.sc
03-06-2013, 11:21 PM
You can use zipties - but mip steering? so 1 or 2 people will have it. hmmmm.
Long arms? Nah, didn't the short arms win the worlds? Craig Drescher ran the short arms at the EOS. My original came with short arms and my CE1 and CE2 both came with long arms I believe - but my CE2 now looks like an original rc10 but with a stealth gbox. It's either a limited class or it's not. Bushings - forsure those can be replaced - the 6 gear box doesn't really like bushings.
Just my suggestions - I think if you're gonna race an original rc10 it needs to be original. not a hop-up festival.
A&L have rereleased and have been selling the steering parts for some time. http://vintageteamaandl.com/steering.htm
A short arm RC10 won the 85 Worlds, it also still had the standard RC10 steering arms as well. You can read about the building of the replica that was shown at RCX here, (http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=24088) but the only competition was Scorpions and Frogs.
Craig Dreschers chassis at the EOS is a Worlds with wide arms, stealth gearbox and a whole load of mods including the A&L steering.http://eos.redrc.net/gallery/?nggpage=6
But I agree, if you are going to race them there's nothing wrong with keeping them box stock and see what we actually used to race with back then. No slipper and Holiday Buggy tyres are bigger problems to deal with than the upgrades. Allowing steering upgrades and wide arms would just end up with everyone buying them and you end up in the same position with everyone having a matching spec again just having now spent more money on it.
racingdwarf
03-06-2013, 11:40 PM
If it's a limited run car you may find it hard to get enough people with the rc10 to run a class, But maybe a class thats pre 1986 or something so the rc10 would be racing against hotshots and optimas, as it was back then with say a control tyre of the tamiya oval block and a 540motor rule...just a thought?
Robby
04-06-2013, 12:07 AM
You can use zipties - but mip steering? so 1 or 2 people will have it. hmmmm.
Long arms? Nah, didn't the short arms win the worlds? Craig Drescher ran the short arms at the EOS. My original came with short arms and my CE1 and CE2 both came with long arms I believe - but my CE2 now looks like an original rc10 but with a stealth gbox. It's either a limited class or it's not. Bushings - forsure those can be replaced - the 6 gear box doesn't really like bushings.
Just my suggestions - I think if you're gonna race an original rc10 it needs to be original. not a hop-up festival.
There were zillions of the aftermarket bellcranks made by a multitude of manufacturers, including: Losi, Hogue, and others (i can't remember off the top of my head.
There's a lot of them out there (just looked on ebay and found about a dozen rather quickly), so it's not like it's rare or unavailable.
And being as this car is coming with CVDs, while the original didn't. Well..... ;)
You want to make it a "limited class," then limit motors to something reasonable for the car like a 21.5
If it's a limited run car you may find it hard to get enough people with the rc10 to run a class, But maybe a class thats pre 1986 or something so the rc10 would be racing against hotshots and optimas, as it was back then with say a control tyre of the tamiya oval block and a 540motor rule...just a thought?
I tend to agree with this, in premise. Over in the States they've been doing the vintage thing pretty actively for about 5 years or so, and I think it's pre-1995 is their cutoff.
jimmy
04-06-2013, 07:22 AM
I'm not sure if it will be a problem, numbers wise. Sorry terry you're right about dresch's car- compared to anything elss the long arms are really short!
Keep it standard and fun.
AfroP
04-06-2013, 09:07 AM
anybody know where to pre-order from?
CML still has no mention on the website
Edit. NVM found some.
estimated £200
Thats a lot of money for a shelf queen
neallewis
04-06-2013, 09:27 AM
anybody know where to pre-order from?
CML still has no mention on the website
Edit. NVM found some.
estimated £200
Thats a lot of money for a shelf queen
MB models @199: http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/race-models/race-off-road-electric/team-associated-cml-centro/as6001-team-associated-rc10-classic-limited-edition-pre-order.html
Other places I've seen are pre-order at £229.
A little bird has told me numbers coming to the UK are low, >50, <100, with 2000 world wide.
I guess pre-ordering is the way to secure one if you want it.
jimmy
04-06-2013, 09:48 AM
Cml told me they had a good chunk of stuff coming. All cars are limited editions as they eventually stop. Both ae and cml have said they will have full spares backup.
2000 sounds feasible, if they sell well then a other batch comes I'm fairly sure. More than enough for us to race them.
If a&l do the steering it could be worth looking at, I'm just proposing a limited class to keep it fun and even, with a speed unlikely to write the car off. The cost to race might well be a £200 classic plus some cheap bearing set under £10 and possibly either a control motor or controlled motor and esc combo for a very keen price.
Racing is too serious generally - come to an oOple race and you'll notice a difference - when it comes to the truck class at the invernational then it's anything goes. I envisage a specific RC10 re-release class to provide some awesome close and fun racing - and CML are interested in making it work.
MHeadling
04-06-2013, 10:36 AM
I agree Jimmy, be an awesome class to race, seeing a grid of these would be great!
As for esc/motor combo the Ezrun 13.5 would be a good cheap option with no way of tinkering to make it quicker
AfroP
04-06-2013, 10:45 AM
I agree Jimmy, be an awesome class to race, seeing a grid of these would be great!
As for esc/motor combo the Ezrun 13.5 would be a good cheap option with no way of tinkering to make it quicker
speed passion citrix stock with a 13.5 would work just as well
jimmy
04-06-2013, 10:46 AM
Do you think 13.5 would be a good motor or too quick? I've no real experience of them. I know people want to go quick but if 13.5 is similar to a 17 turn brushed then I think that would be the max speed you'd want out of one of these cars, just to protect them.
jimmy
04-06-2013, 10:53 AM
Whatever it is, I think they all need to be the same so it's 100% fair. CML sort something or I help sort something and re-label it for the rc10 classic or something then it would be all good.
If we have enough interest from people wanting to race to a set of rules then I'm sure group buys and the like wouldn't be out of the question.
MHeadling
04-06-2013, 10:53 AM
I'd say a 13.5 will be ok I reckon on fixed timing, but 17.5 or 21.5?
But will people use high C rating cells to get the car quicker??
A 13.5 will be about the same as a 27 t in brushed but with better cells prob quicker these days.
Maybe 17.5 would be a better option
ryanlownie
04-06-2013, 11:03 AM
We ran at an endurance race (1/8 off-road), the best method in my eyes is to group buy the electrics (motor, esc, battery) and ensure that all competitors use that specific set.
Raise the entry fee to cover costs (a supplier should be able to offer a good deal) and have some fun!
jimmy
04-06-2013, 11:03 AM
I think the C rating makes the difference with high current draw? When there's a low current draw from a slow motor then I don't think it makes a difference but I could well be wrong on that.
terry.sc
04-06-2013, 11:22 AM
C rating depends on whether the motor can draw the current, if it only pulls 20A max then a 25C or 100C battery isn't going to make much difference.
I would say a 13.5 would be as fast as you want to go with these, probably equivalent to around 13-15 brushed with what you can get out of them these days. Keeping the ESCs to blinky mode means you can use cheap ESCs like the Citrix Stock which have no boost options, but if anyone has a spare high end ESC with blinky mode then they won't have to buy a new ESC for similar performance.
They weren't built around todays speeds, here's the 85 Worlds open class, so modified motors and as fast as they could go. You could likely match them with a 21.5T today.
F2fT9dnDwP4
Might as well pop this in here as well, part 1 of 5.
2kzbE6CTKrQ
jimmy
04-06-2013, 11:27 AM
JAMMIN!
Could do with some testing really - 13.5 does sound a bit rapid to me. I raced my vintage ride with a 15 turn brushed (spec motor) and a lipo and it was very quick. Would people cry if they had to use a 21.5 motor though? not enough power etc? Having said that, if it's wet with those kit tyres, you will be wishing for a mabuchi
AfroP
04-06-2013, 12:31 PM
be great if we could a trinity green machine to whack in
or the old style stock motors
13.5 was my suggestion as thats whats considered stock spec
wouldnt mind a 21.5
footey
04-06-2013, 01:06 PM
why not go old skool brushed and get a saturn 20t motor
oooooooo and jimmy im in
Si Coe
04-06-2013, 03:22 PM
Personally I'd say as a race class vintage 2wd would be perfect. Rules are nice and simple - pre'90 for the original car, no slippers.
As well as RC10's (which could now include Graphites and CE's as well) you could also run Topcats, Cougars (but not Cougar 2's) and Losi JRX2's. I'd even allow Club 10's which are technically post 90 but match the build spec.
For tyres Schumacher still make the old Blue Spikes we used to run around 1990 so there is your control tyre - restrict motors as discussed.
That leaves you a pretty open class but the tyre and motor restrictions mean that doesn't really matter which chassis you go for.
jimmy
04-06-2013, 04:18 PM
Pretty much everything you mentioned would kick in the head of an original rc10 - none of those cars are available and neither are parts. A more general class was run as a special event at last years oOple Invernational - two races for two age periods. You can't have a fair race if all the cars are different and some just have better cars - and then you start going down the road of trying to fit modern tyres to it.
It's simple - keep it stock 100% and race against other identical cars for fun with a lovely looking piece of history. Yeah we all understeer into a corner, yeah we all suffer the narrow suspension etc.
Gibopel
04-06-2013, 04:31 PM
Ordered mine today and well up for some stock racing as long as it is stock kinda like the idea of a speedo motor lipo combo so all the same Andy
jimmy
04-06-2013, 05:11 PM
Gonna see what we can do about that mate, hopefully some news soon. Everything standard - and no little hopups etc - keep it simple basic fun.
Gibopel
04-06-2013, 05:36 PM
Agreed
Robby
04-06-2013, 05:47 PM
Personally I'd say as a race class vintage 2wd would be perfect. Rules are nice and simple - pre'90 for the original car, no slippers.
Team Pitstop was making slippers back in 1988/89. ;)
You can't have a fair race if all the cars are different and some just have better cars - and then you start going down the road of trying to fit modern tyres to it.
We had "modern size" 2.2 rims, at least rear rims, back in the late 80s as well.
neallewis
04-06-2013, 05:55 PM
Gonna see what we can do about that mate, hopefully some news soon. Everything standard - and no little hopups etc - keep it simple basic fun.
Sounds good Jimmy, mine is ordered and I would like to race it.
I think you'd want something akin to the old BRCA legal sealed Yokomo can 27T stock motor of yesteryear.
Kit built standard apart from things like bearings, and maybe a suitable tyre for UK tracks.
Brushless is the way to go, and maybe a 13.5t is a bit too fast, so 17.5t or 21.5t stock spec, with blinky mode (0 advance) timing on the ESC.
I know Schumacher do a core RC Blinky ESC/13.5 SP combo for not much money intended for 1S GT12 racing, but it works for 2S packs as well. That sort of thing would be fine, but say a 17.5 or 21.5. Infact any blinky mode ESC is fine and fair, along with a motor from the existing brca stock spec legal lists.
jimmy
04-06-2013, 06:06 PM
I think my procat was from that time - it din't have 2.2" rims. I am not sure when they appeared but I don't think it was until the 90's from Yokomo - or am I mistaken.
jimmy
04-06-2013, 06:11 PM
ESC's can make a big difference - and for sure it's common to cheat in stock classes. If we can get together something cheap that doesn't even allow timing, that might be good.
I have knobbly spike front rc10 sized tyres - no idea who made them but obviously to race they would have to be readily available. I don't think being glued to the track is all importat - if it's wet then for sure the cars would struggle but on dry astro they won't be too bad even with 20 year old design tyres.:lol:
J'MM'N
04-06-2013, 06:33 PM
2.2" wheels first appeared at the 1989 worlds in Australia.
Before the worlds Masami and Yokomo had been testing at St Ives track in Australia and even returned home with dirt samples from the track. From this they developed the tyres and compound that would work on the track. Problem was IFMAR ruling stated that any tyre used at the worlds had to be commercially available. Tyres were made commercially available by Yokomo directly before the worlds started and Yokomo were even happy to give out the tyres at the worlds.
Cunningly no other manufacturers had anything near a 2.2" wheel, so they had no way of using them. It was a big advantage to Yokomo drivers, although other manufacturers thought it very unfair. Yokomo also released the TH-1 wheel adapters at the same time, so all Associated drivers could use the Yokomo wheels on RC10's.
Robby
04-06-2013, 06:39 PM
2.2" wheels first appeared at the 1989 worlds in Australia.
I thought it was pre-1990.
But I thought the first Schumacher minipins were 2.2", and came out 87???
J'MM'N
04-06-2013, 06:40 PM
The old Schumacher 3x20 & 4x20 spikes are the way to go, introduced around 1986, work almost anywhere and you just cut the spikes off to suit your set up. Still readily available, only problem is you'll need 2.0" wheels.
Robby
04-06-2013, 06:46 PM
This car has those 2-piece (not 3-pc) bolt-together rims.
Were they 2.0 or 2.2?
I thought the 2nd gen wheels were 2.2........
J'MM'N
04-06-2013, 06:46 PM
It was pre 1990 just;)
Mini pins use to be made for the smaller 2.0" wheels, as were all Schumacher tyres. I remember Schumacher weren't in a hurry to redo all there tyres to 2.2". But eventually they had to follow suit with other manufacturers, when they realised how much of a step forward the bigger wheels were.
Robby
04-06-2013, 06:50 PM
It was pre 1990 just;)
Mini pins use to be made for the smaller 2.0" wheels, as were all Schumacher tyres. I remember Schumacher weren't in a hurry to redo all there tyres to 2.2". But eventually they had to follow suit with other manufacturers, when they realised how much of a step forward the bigger wheels were.
Maybe we just stretched them over the JRX2 rims, or something. :lol:
I'm just trying to place things how long pre-1990, from memory (that's foggy), because it was Spring of 1990 when I retired from racing and went back to college.
Losi had their own tyres, and Proline had the "Reds".......... oh, the good ol' days of tyre of the week. :thumbsup:
J'MM'N
04-06-2013, 06:50 PM
This car has those 2-piece (not 3-pc) bolt-together rims.
Were they 2.0 or 2.2?
I thought the 2nd gen wheels were 2.2........
No the wheels are diddy, something like 1.6" or 1.7". The sort of things you get on a modern day Grasshopper:lol: It would be better if it did have 2.0" wheels.
Robby
04-06-2013, 06:52 PM
No the wheels are diddy, something like 1.6" or 1.7". The sort of things you get on a modern day Grasshopper:lol: It would be better if it did have 2.0" wheels.
No, the original RC10 had 1.6" rims --- but I'm talking about the re-release car coming out, I thought its got those 2nd generation rims that were MUCH larger than the original car's.
(I could be wrong, seen too many pictures the last few days :D )
Si Coe
04-06-2013, 07:02 PM
There were slippers before the Stealth box - but they tended to be slipper pinions (more like a nitro clutch bell) and therefore of limited use. Worked fine for protecting you from drivetrain shock but you couldn't really use them for traction control.
Stealth boxes didn't become available in the UK until the start of 1990 - I managed to blag one of the first customer ones into the UK off Ted Longshaw and got mine mid December 1989.
2.2in wheels worked much the same way - towards the start of 1990 Amark released pink 2.2in wheels for most brands. However except the very St Ive's specific Yokomo tyres everything was 2.0in so to use them we used to stretch out Schumacher 6x10 Cut Spikes over the carcass, which can't really have been better than a 2.0in rim.
I raced my standard gold tub RC10 with nothing except longer arms, one piece wheels and improved steering (RPM I think but don't remember) in the late 80's. Frequently my RC10 was alone in a field consisting entirely of Topcats, but it was totally competitive. That shouldn't be surprising as with those minor changes my car was essentially a Graphite but with the gold chassis.
Robby
04-06-2013, 07:08 PM
There were slippers before the Stealth box - but they tended to be slipper pinions (more like a nitro clutch bell) and therefore of limited use. Worked fine for protecting you from drivetrain shock but you couldn't really use them for traction control.
I had a proper slipper, Team Pitstop, for my JRX2 in 87/88-ish.
(they made them for "others" too I seem to remember)
Came complete with a different top shaft, had to knock your brass idler one off the stock topshaft, and press it on the new one.
Used red pegs instead of diffballs in our Kimbrough spur gears. It worked GREAT! :thumbsup:
jimmy
04-06-2013, 07:29 PM
No, the original RC10 had 1.6" rims --- but I'm talking about the re-release car coming out, I thought its got those 2nd generation rims that were MUCH larger than the original car's.
(I could be wrong, seen too many pictures the last few days :D )
I can't see anything pointing toward the larger dished bolt-together rims you're talking about. This is supposed to be an original rc10, so it'll be small wheels.
My first rc10 was the championship edition 1 - with a 6-gear tranny and 2 inch wheels I believe. Really nice car but I was always more into my 4WD buggies.
MY CE2 since it was missing a couple of bits in the kit and I had spares - I built it into a gen1 replica with the short suspension, original tyres and wheels etc. It's just got slightly different shock towers and a stealth tranny.
Robby
04-06-2013, 07:38 PM
I can't see anything pointing toward the larger dished bolt-together rims you're talking about. This is supposed to be an original rc10, so it'll be small wheels.
My first rc10 was the championship edition 1 - with a 6-gear tranny and 2 inch wheels I believe. Really nice car but I was always more into my 4WD buggies.
MY CE2 since it was missing a couple of bits in the kit and I had spares - I built it into a gen1 replica with the short suspension, original tyres and wheels etc. It's just got slightly different shock towers and a stealth tranny.
I just "thought" I saw a picture somewhere, I don't know...... too many pics too many threads, I'm probably getting loopy. :lol:
The original had dogbones, while this one's supposed to have CVDs - so who knows.
It still makes me wonder though, it's not like there's a manufacturer of 1.6" tyres anymore - but we won't know for sure until people start getting their hands on them.
Wonder if I've still got that case of Holiday Buggy tires socked away out in the garage or did the wife toss them? :eh?:
jimmy
04-06-2013, 07:49 PM
I have a few pairs lol
Nah - I think we might see a run of tyres from someone - the moulds might not all be long gone. I hope.
Robby
04-06-2013, 09:01 PM
I have a few pairs lol
Nah - I think we might see a run of tyres from someone - the moulds might not all be long gone. I hope.
Just gave Cliff a ring, it will have the old school 1.6" rims. I stand corrected. :thumbdown:
And I found the case of HB tyres. :thumbsup:
mark christopher
04-06-2013, 09:29 PM
ESC's can make a big difference - and for sure it's common to cheat in stock classes. If we can get together something cheap that doesn't even allow timing, that might be good.
I have knobbly spike front rc10 sized tyres - no idea who made them but obviously to race they would have to be readily available. I don't think being glued to the track is all importat - if it's wet then for sure the cars would struggle but on dry astro they won't be too bad even with 20 year old design tyres.:lol:
Jimmy in blinky there is very little in speedos, full list on EB listings, easy to check, not easy to cheat, 17.5 in a tc is fast enough but not savage, so would work well.
terry.sc
04-06-2013, 10:59 PM
I think my procat was from that time - it din't have 2.2" rims. I am not sure when they appeared but I don't think it was until the 90's from Yokomo - or am I mistaken.Schumacher didn't produce 2.2" wheels until the Procat SE and Bosscat, released in 1992.
ESC's can make a big difference - and for sure it's common to cheat in stock classes. If we can get together something cheap that doesn't even allow timing, that might be good.That's the whole point of blinky and why it is widespread in on road. There is a fixed output setting that the ESC must match when in blinky mode, and whether it's a cheap basic ESC or top of the range model when they are running there is no difference between them. They are called blinky because it is mandated that when in stock mode an led blinks when in neutral so it is easy to check it is legal. The one thing that brushless has done is make sure there can't be any cheating in stock classes like there used to be.
terry.sc
04-06-2013, 11:04 PM
I thought it was pre-1990.
But I thought the first Schumacher minipins were 2.2", and came out 87???
2" minispikes were around 1990, 2.2" minispikes and microspikes around 92, minipins around 94.
Robby
04-06-2013, 11:19 PM
minipins around 94.
Had to of been long before that.
I had "retired" spring of 1990, and I have some from well before that.
MattW
05-06-2013, 11:38 AM
I doubt it. The current mini pin was "modelled on" the Losi IFMAR pin, and I'd have put that at 93 ish.
Robby
05-06-2013, 03:21 PM
Chronographically impossible.
terry.sc
05-06-2013, 03:36 PM
Matts right, the Schumacher minipins were developed from the Proline IFMAR pins from the 93 Worlds. Minispikes were around at the very end of the 80s in 2", and Schumacher never had any 2.2" wheels and tyres until the release of the Bosscat and Cougar 2 in 1992.
Here's a complete list of Schumachers tyre range from the Bosscat manual, released in 1992. http://www.vintage-rc.net/manuals/schumacher/Bosscat/640/10-3.jpg
Robby
05-06-2013, 03:43 PM
Matts right, the Schumacher minipins were developed from the Proline IFMAR pins from the 93 Worlds.
OK, then these ones mounted on my car from the 89 worlds are a figment of my imagination. :thumbsup: You win!
MattW
05-06-2013, 09:44 PM
Robby, maybe you should post a picture - as I still say that the "minipin" was not available in 89.
Lonestar
06-06-2013, 12:17 PM
It's simple - keep it stock 100% and race against other identical cars for fun with a lovely looking piece of history. Yeah we all understeer into a corner, yeah we all suffer the narrow suspension etc.
AMEN!
neallewis
06-06-2013, 12:43 PM
Matts right, the Schumacher minipins were developed from the Proline IFMAR pins from the 93 Worlds. Minispikes were around at the very end of the 80s in 2", and Schumacher never had any 2.2" wheels and tyres until the release of the Bosscat and Cougar 2 in 1992.
Here's a complete list of Schumachers tyre range from the Bosscat manual, released in 1992. http://www.vintage-rc.net/manuals/schumacher/Bosscat/640/10-3.jpg
I've got an unused set of schumacher 2.2 microspikes from ~1992. I'd pretty much stopped racing by the end of 92 or beginning of 93 as I learned to drive a real car, and got a girlfriend. Racing toy cars was not on the agenda.
For a few years before we used to use schumacher soft minispikes (although i can't recall what we used to call them, maybe "minis"), which had an uneven spike pattern i seem to recall, not like the modern ones, with bigger gaps between the spikes. I've got some really worn ones in my old kit which i can dig out and photograph. we used to use them indoors on carpet. They were 2.0", or less than 2.2" anyway.
percymon
06-06-2013, 03:06 PM
I was all for a 13T set-up in mine, but i'm now swayed towards a 17.5T after the recent discussion.
Speed Passion Reventon S / V3.0 17.5T combo from RC Mart for $98 delivered is looking favourable - 2700kV motor coupled to 2S lipo, giving 20,000 rpm, which sounds about right in a vintage runner to me
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