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mr emily
05-07-2013, 12:01 PM
The team C section seem to be TM2 only now!! Is anyone still driving the TC02C?

Does anyone have grass setup for the TC02C?

Keith

adey
05-07-2013, 12:55 PM
I love my tc02c. I usually phone Smd if I can't find a setup. They always are happy to help.

john333
05-07-2013, 01:05 PM
Smartalec is your man for TC02C set ups, he's done more races with one than most.

I'm sure he'll be on here soon with some info :thumbsup:

Smartalec
05-07-2013, 03:24 PM
The team C section seem to be TM2 only now!! Is anyone still driving the TC02C?

Does anyone have grass setup for the TC02C?

Keith

Hi Keith
Try this for your TC02c on the grassy stuff:

Front:
35wt Losi oil, kit pistons drilled to 1.4mm, black kit spring. Longest camber link with 2mm washer under the inner ballstud, 30degree caster blocks.

Rear:
25wt Losi oil, kit pistons drilled to 1.4mm, black kit springs. Longest camber link with 2mm washer under the outer ballstud, 1degree alloy rear hubs. When the grass starts to deteriorate drop rear oil to 20wt.

Short wheelbase

62gram Rudebits weight under lipo and 20grams of lead stuck behind the servo.

This works for me every time, let me know how you get on mate :thumbsup:

adey
05-07-2013, 05:18 PM
Hi smartalec, can you post the position if the shocks and position of rear link on the bulkhead with that setup, many thanks....

Smartalec
06-07-2013, 01:52 PM
Hi smartalec, can you post the position if the shocks and position of rear link on the bulkhead with that setup, many thanks....

Hi, middle on the tower front and rear, inner on the rear wishbone and outer on the front wishbone (if you need a bit more steering, put the shocks on the inner hole on the front wishbone). Inner hole (longest) for the rear camberlink. :thumbsup:

mr emily
22-07-2013, 09:03 PM
Front:
35wt Losi oil, kit pistons drilled to 1.4mm, blue associated spring. Longest camber link with 2mm washer under the inner ballstud, 30degree caster blocks.Mid hole upper and outer on wishbone

Rear:
25wt Losi oil, kit pistons drilled to 1.4mm, black kit springs. Longest camber link with 2mm washer under the outer ballstud, 0 degree plastic rear hubs.Mid hole upper inner hole wishbone

top hole inner camber link and outer top hole plastic hub

Short wheelbase, tried long

83 grams under lipo

Alloy front pivot block with weight

Tried kit black springs not good

With kit spring understeery in the infield, with assoc spring better but still not good, flowing faster corners it was very good predictable and safe, jumped well. What to do to get more low speed steering on grass?

Keith

luniemiester
22-07-2013, 09:12 PM
Double post

luniemiester
22-07-2013, 09:13 PM
Depends on the front tyre. If your using staggers then try Moving the front shocks into the inner hole on the wishbone . If your still struggling then try yellow mini spikes instead

mr emily
25-07-2013, 01:11 PM
Going to buy some alloy rear hubs.

1 degree or 0 degree?

will there be significantlty more understeer with the 1dergee?

Keith

Smartalec
25-07-2013, 02:56 PM
Going to buy some alloy rear hubs.

1 degree or 0 degree?

will there be significantlty more understeer with the 1dergee?

Keith

Hi Keith, I always run the 1 degree alloy hubs (never suffered from understeer), but that will lock in the rear more :thumbsup:

adey
27-07-2013, 12:33 AM
I have set my car up as per this set up and would like to know how best to gain rear traction. I raced the car at Telford and the grass there has totally worn through in places. Most of the corners are dirt now and I am really struggling for rear traction. I have tried Dboots multi bytes and found that they help but even so, its very tricky to get the power down to exit the turn without the car spinning round. I have 80g under lipo. Can anyone give me any suggestions to get better rear traction. Many thanks.

Smartalec
27-07-2013, 07:53 AM
The key to getting the car (any car) to handle well in these conditions is finding the correct diff and slipper balance. Its vital to make sure the diff is perfect when the grass is worn or traction is low in general.

adey
27-07-2013, 08:42 AM
I take your point there. I did loosen the diff and the slipper was set very loose too and it did help alot but I still feel there is more I can do with the car In terms of setup. I was wondering if more rear toe in would help. And possibly more weight toward the rear of the car maybe.

shaungooner
28-07-2013, 05:57 AM
I recently rebuilt the diff on my TC02C and the car was transformed, I hadn't realised the difference this could make to performance

Would the guys who posted this setup for grass be kind enough to share a good starting setup for carpet and astro please?

mr emily
28-07-2013, 08:17 AM
I tend to set the diff, steel plates and ceramic balls, so l can just turn it with fingers. The slipper I have it so it just turns, not loose turns. When it is newly built and like described above the car is very good.

How do other describe their diff/slipper set up?

Chalkie
28-07-2013, 09:41 PM
I have set my car up as per this set up and would like to know how best to gain rear traction. I raced the car at Telford and the grass there has totally worn through in places. Most of the corners are dirt now and I am really struggling for rear traction. I have tried Dboots multi bytes and found that they help but even so, its very tricky to get the power down to exit the turn without the car spinning round. I have 80g under lipo. Can anyone give me any suggestions to get better rear traction. Many thanks.

If you have the alloy rear pivot pin hangers try the 4 deg one, as well as adding toe in it also shortens the wheelbase slightly and adds some driveshaft sweep helping traction. You could also try the 75 tooth spur and go down two teeth on the pinion to keep the gearing the same which allows you to move the motor back quite alot to get more weight over the back wheels.

adey
29-07-2013, 12:51 AM
Ill try those mods. Thanks Chalkie