New B-MAX 4 III

[mekios]

http://www.rcdevil.gr/2013/08/30/yokomo-bmax-4iii/

Link is in Greek. I was informed today by our local distributor.
Looks fine! No upper deck and i wonder what material the chassis is. Also has easier sway bar stays and a nice floating servo mount!

http://www.rcdevil.gr/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/1278479_503047639788860_1306116165_n.jpg

http://www.rcdevil.gr/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/1097347_503047889788835_193650233_n-600x399.jpg

[mes]

US Yokomo distributors A Main Hobbies just released first images on the upcoming B-Max4 III 4WD buggy. The updated kit will feature a topdeck-less aluminium chassis instead of a plastic tub chassis as used on the previous model. The drive train and slipper are also redesigned, the servo mount appears to be of a floating design as seen on electric touring cars these days and the kit will include carbon fibre shock towers, 12mm wheel hex adapters and a reduced amount of fasteners to make for a reduced all-up weight. More details will be released soon.
Source: redrc.net (http://www.redrc.net/2013/08/yokomo-b-max4-iii-first-images/#more-70781)

I like!
:drool:

[discothesnake]

Very nice. I reckon £450 easy!

[dpackster1980]

I reckon around £300, it doesn't have many blingy bits. If it is I'm getting one.

[tinnylad]

I ran that Greek article through a translator and i think it says its to be released 15th October! :thumbsup:

[mes]

Just a few days after my birthday...:D

[discothesnake]

I reckon around £300, it doesn't have many blingy bits. If it is I'm getting one.

No chance! 😀

It'd be great if it was that, but I can't see it.

[mes]

Yokomo's B-Max4 first releases traditionally are not the full bling Version. Expect to see the Factory Team version in 2014. ;)

[AfroP]

looks very similar to an XB4
interesting

[neallewis]

That's xmas (or sooner my Birthday) sorted then ;-)
Was in MB earlier today and it was mentioned that it was due, I can say now its public.
Looks ace.

[mes]

That's why I didn't buy the discounted World Spec kit in spring... ;)

[Bastos]

Thanks to HDC-RC for the photos at the Japan National race in Yatabe Arena.

http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/1972/qryp.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/7/qryp.jpg/)

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2482/y9tn.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/843/y9tn.jpg/)

[Bastos]

Yokomo's B-Max4 first releases traditionally are not the full bling Version. Expect to see the Factory Team version in 2014. ;)

Agree.
The camber link are in Titanium on Naoto's car and the "bellcrank link" is in carbon instead of plastic on the commercial photos.

[discothesnake]

Naoto is always going to have different parts on his car. Turnbuckles, steering linkage, shock caps etc. until the car is released is hard to say way spec the car will be.

Also, I fancy Hara to be back at Yokomo too.

[OneKiwi]

Also, I fancy Hara to be back at Yokomo too.

That would be cool

[Naushad]

Man...that's a quick update on the Bmax..wonder if they'll come up with a conversion kit? Can't justify forking out for big prices.

[skyaflake]

Interesting car, looks pretty solid. Still happy with the B-Max4 II though.

[mes]

Man...that's a quick update on the Bmax..wonder if they'll come up with a conversion kit?

I don't think there would be much left from the original car after the conversion. ;)

[dpackster1980]

Just a few days after my birthday...:D

Me too.

[Bastos]

Some more pics...
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/8666/eopx.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/51/eopx.jpg/)

http://ameblo.jp/yatabe-arena/
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/3333/o2sl.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/835/o2sl.jpg/)

[Naushad]

yeah...maybe with the chassis esp.

I'm guessing there will be less flex...guess that's why they've done away with a top deck...

I don't think there would be much left from the original car after the conversion. ;)

[mes]

Naoto just secured a nice label for the box: 2013 JMRCA National Champion. :thumbsup:

[Bastos]

Some more details pics...from Yokomo :)

http://imageshack.us/a/img542/7395/zx6v.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img845/3738/75dy.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img4/4254/rg9h.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img545/6406/vng6.jpg

[Bastos]

It looks that the motor position ( forward/backward ) and chassis torsion/flex ( screws in line center chassis ) could be set...

[discothesnake]

Quality looks spot on.

[AfroP]

there are a lot of similarities to the XB4

the motor/electric/battery position is the same
the alloy front and rear suspension hangers with the plastic inserts for adjusting roll center and anti squat
geared diff
Alloy chassis plat with chunky plastic side pods

[OneKiwi]

CF under the rear bulkhead maybe for weight later on?
I also like the what looks like a mostely enclosed slipper. Saves debry getting in there and eating the spur/pinion

[OneKiwi]

Naoto just secured a nice label for the box: 2013 JMRCA National Champion. :thumbsup:

Where did you get that info and I hope there are videos later

[mes]

www.yaggy.jp (http://www.yaggy.jp) + Google translator. ;)

4WD TQ and win, 2WD second place. :thumbsup:

[discothesnake]

It's on Team Yokomo Facebook page too.

[neallewis]

It looks ace that. MB have it priced up and on pre-order on their site. I'll be getting one to match my bmax 2 and to compare with my xray.

[dpackster1980]

Definitely getting one. It looks stunning, I hope it's not going to be a dud like the MX4 was.

[mekios]

http://i.qkme.me/3vnvej.jpg

[mes]

:lol:

[dpackster1980]

The shell is hideous it's like the K1 with the cab looking like an after thought then just shoved on the front! I hope JC are planning on making a Finnisher version.

[smokes]

looks extremely well specced as a standard kit. I hope it is not too expensive and bomb proof like a yz-10

[mes]

The shell is hideous it's like the K1 with the cab looking like an after thought then just shoved on the front! I hope JC are planning on making a Finnisher version.

Probably the B44.2 body will fit just like on the previous B-Maxes. I don't mind the kit body's look, similar in style to the MR body, and I actually like the centreline fin in the rear.

[Oops]

http://www.teamyokomo.eu/fotky5486/fotos/_vyrp16_16492V6P8225.jpg
www.teamyokomo.eu (http://www.oople.com/forums/www.teamyokomo.eu)

[badger5]

Looks like you can move the motor position fwd and aft to change weight balance. I wonder how it will do with no top deck, chassis must be over 2mm? Looks quality though and very good to see Yokomo getting some coverage and support back again.

[neallewis]

Love the swept forwards front arms. Overcomes the dig-in problem of the XB4 lower arm mount/front bumper.

[jhammond]

Have to say this looks very well put together.

[mes]

... I wonder how it will do with no top deck, chassis must be over 2mm? ...

I bet the screws along the centreline attach to a longitudinal chassis stiffener. By removing screws, you should be able to increase flex for slippery tracks.

[feniks]

car looks verry fine indeed . aldo I do miss a balldiff in there as that is what I did not like on the XB4 and there fore prefer still my old Bmax

[blue_pinky]

I agree...really hope there is a ball diff option...or the old/previous ball diffs still fit!

Be interested to see how it deals with bending/twisting down the length of the car without a top deck...it must keep the transmission in line somehow!

Does look nice to me though...I want!!! :thumbsup:

[JohnM]

http://imageshack.us/a/img4/4254/rg9h.jpg


If only those gears would fit in a XB4:wub

[discothesnake]

If only those gears would fit in a XB4:wub

Must admit, quality looks top notch.

[dpackster1980]

Put my deposit down. It looks really good and better equipped than I thought. :wub

I hope it's not delayed otherwise I'll have no 4wd for the 2nd round of Worksop.

[Leedsey]

What's others take on this -

Central shaft seems to have a spring in the extra piece near the spur gear Which is presumably allowing for flex during landings, to keep drivetrain together (not dual motor placement?)
Front top brace over steering housing at the front of the chassis seems wide and made out of alloy/metal- presumable to control sideway flex.
Lower center of gravity as Main metal chassis has side plastic add on, rather than over the top like a xb4 and this metal is 'short' to allow the diff housing to be lower at each end:thumbsup:

Considering the above, if I've assumed correctly (and the fact most xb4 have benefited from the full length top plate retro added) do you think the diffs fixed to the metal chassis on just one side combined with no top plate is likely to be problematic?:confused:

[discothesnake]

The only spring I see is for the slipper adjustment.

The car will be spot in. Yokomo don't build a bad car.

[neallewis]

Central shaft seems to have a spring in the extra piece near the spur gear Which is presumably allowing for flex during landings, to keep drivetrain together (not dual motor placement?)

Do you mean the slipper spring underneath the -ve battery lead in this?
http://imageshack.us/a/img542/7395/zx6v.jpg


Front top brace over steering housing at the front of the chassis seems wide and made out of alloy/metal- presumable to control sideway flex.

XB4 brace between posts is made of carbon, and is narrower here. I'd have thought the width would be to do with the Ackerman geometry setup of the steering cranks, giving enough clearance of the front gearbox/diff housing in between, rather than to directly control stiffness/flex at this point of the chassis.



Lower center of gravity as Main metal chassis has side plastic add on, rather than over the top like a xb4 and this metal is 'short' to allow the diff housing to be lower at each end:thumbsup:

Yes lower diffs will help lower overall CoG. The XB4 used the overlayer of plastic tub to control the flex of the chassis. Here the Yok seems to not use the plastic tub to influence flex or stiffness, but the diagonal braces from gear casing down to central spine along the centreline of the alloy chassis. I guess like 1/8th scale.


Considering the above, if I've assumed correctly (and the fact most xb4 have benefited from the full length top plate retro added) do you think the diffs fixed to the metal chassis on just one side combined with no top plate is likely to be problematic?:confused:

The inner camber link mounts are metal and will hold or brace the diff casings. If this is a weak-point, we've yet to see?

I had the XB4 full top deck, but snapped it in between the motor mount and rear slipper bearing mount. I guess the chassis flexed a bit too much on an impact at the oople race last month. A bit of dremmel work allowed me to use the rear brace piece along with the original kit top brace.

[Leedsey]

Thanks Neil, understood now.
(thought the back bulk head braces were for lipo retention as deck is sloping in-wards, didn't know like this in 1:8)

The detailing and build looks very nice indeed, see why you like it.
I would be very interested in your opinion once its out and been driven

[smokes]

look like the are creating an I beam in the spine which much stiffer and stronger shape than a flat top deck

[OneKiwi]

Looks like it could be together with the braces.

[t8rtot]

To me, it looks just like an 1/8 buggy setup. Genius!

[dpackster1980]

Don't know how it goes, never seen one in the flesh and I don't care. Looks like they've put a lot of thought into the design.

I've put my pre order in.

[AfroP]

http://www.neobuggy.net/2013/09/27/under-the-hood-naotos-4wd-b-max-4-iii/

[neallewis]

Looks ace that. Pre-ordered.

[TripleX]

http://petitrc.smugmug.com/Hobbies/2013-Off-Road-WC/Day-6/32152241_57cJnL#!i=2795069794&k=GTNHRcg

[dpackster1980]

Not impressed Yokomo have changed the delivery date on the week it's due. Surely Yokomo Europe knew of the delay beforehand. Gutted it looks like I'm racing a borrowed car for the 2nd round of Worksop because I've just sold my 410 based on the original delivery date. Tut tut :thumbdown:

[mikeyscott]

Not impressed Yokomo have changed the delivery date on the week it's due. Surely Yokomo Europe knew of the delay beforehand. Gutted it looks like I'm racing a borrowed car for the 2nd round of Worksop because I've just sold my 410 based on the original delivery date. Tut tut :thumbdown:

I always heard November, which it's not yet.

[skyaflake]

Date has changed from end October to begin November. Not a problem at all :lol:

[mikeyscott]

Date has changed from end October to begin November. Not a problem at all :lol:

No biggie :)

[discothesnake]

Not impressed Yokomo have changed the delivery date on the week it's due. Surely Yokomo Europe knew of the delay beforehand. Gutted it looks like I'm racing a borrowed car for the 2nd round of Worksop because I've just sold my 410 based on the original delivery date. Tut tut :thumbdown:

You've always got to expect a bit of come and go with a brand new kit. I don't think there was ever a date for the release. End of October they said. If it's a week late then so be it.

[dpackster1980]

I always heard November, which it's not yet.

Yokomo Europe website stated end of October until a few days ago. I've got a borrowed XB4 on standby.

[dMITIj]

So the B-MAX4 III is now on sale in Japan :drool:

http://peecee.dk/uploads/112013/ah02_big_thumb.jpg

can't wait for this bad boy :)

[skyaflake]

People in Europe have to wait another week :yawn:

[dikke hond]

Can't wait to get mine! :D

[dMITIj]

New part list is up:
http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/chassis/b_max43.html

[mekios]

From a quick scan i can see that front hubs are 12mm, unlike the current B44 ones.
Now where do we find wheels...

[mes]

Kyosho, if Yokomo wheels are not available I guess. In case HB Cyclone D4 wheels are still available, that's another option; I used to run them on my ZX-5 SP and they were great.

[discothesnake]

I'd imagine the latest Associated wheels will fit?

[gurnell]

Does anyone know whether the kit comes with ball or gear diffs?

[skyaflake]

Gear. Ball-diff is optional.

[dpackster1980]

Ball diff option too. Very nice indeed. :thumbsup:

[skyaflake]

For the UK people: CML has the car in stock, as just seen on their Facebook account.

Shouldn't take long before stores are having them :thumbsup:

[Big G]

I'd imagine the latest Associated wheels will fit?

The B-Max 4 III uses 12mm hexes throughout compared to the 10mm/12mm setup the B44.2 adopted. Can't confirm if rear wheels will be interchangeable, but can't see why not from a quick look.

[OneKiwi]

Hope its changable to 14mm from either TD or xray.. I have those wheels

[discothesnake]

The B-Max 4 III uses 12mm hexes throughout compared to the 10mm/12mm setup the B44.2 adopted. Can't confirm if rear wheels will be interchangeable, but can't see why not from a quick look.

I was pretty sure all the latest B4.2/B44.2 wheels are all 12mm hex fitment?

Unless the hexes are an upgrade?

[mes]

There should be many options, including the old small front hex version; at least the old hexes are still on the parts list.

[Big G]

I was pretty sure all the latest B4.2/B44.2 wheels are all 12mm hex fitment?

Unless the hexes are an upgrade?

B4.2 has 12mm hex all round yes. B44.2 gained 12mm hex on the rear, but kept the 10mm original hex on the front.

You can fit the B4.2's 12mm front hexes easily enough, but the offset on the B4.2 wheels is different to the B44's front wheels.

[dMITIj]

For the UK people: CML has the car in stock, as just seen on their Facebook account.

Shouldn't take long before stores are having them :thumbsup: :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: can't wait :woot:

[dMITIj]

Yokomo B-MAX4 III Unboxing video on the tuub: :p
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtum80xthis

[skyaflake]

Cool :woot:

[discothesnake]

Gone a bit quiet on the B-max4 III. When i saw that CML had them i thought i was gonna get mine this week but it aint looking that way now.

Anyone in UK got one yet?

Dave

[eb4_boy]

CML have had a first delivery of 12, all these kits are now sold.

[dMITIj]

CML have had a first delivery of 12, all these kits are now sold.

to what shops?
lots of preorder's but none of us have seen one neither got one :cry: and now it's all sold.... id don't get it :confused:

[discothesnake]

12? Brilliant. No use to anyone.

Apart from the 12 that got them obviously.

[skyaflake]

12? Are you serious? :thumbdown:

Probably they are shipped from the (non UK ;)) distributor tomorrow, I will get into touch with them.

[eb4_boy]

to what shops?
lots of preorder's but none of us have seen one neither got one :cry: and now it's all sold.... id don't get it :confused:


And what shop did you pre-order from?

[SHY]

Looks great!

A bit XB4 inspired?

[Belsten]

Just finished my builld, went together lovely :thumbsup:

[discothesnake]

Just finished my builld, went together lovely :thumbsup:

Are you at the wind up? Sheer did you get yours from?

I ain't getting mine til Wednesday.

[badger5]

Just finished my builld, went together lovely :thumbsup:

Are you changing drives Dave, I'll be interested to see your car next time your at Torch.

[johnboy]

The two I'm building are very nice going together very well

[dMITIj]

pictures ore it didten't happen :woot:

were did you get yours from?

[mes]

In stock with Tonisport.

[Jamesy]

MB Models are getting some early next week. It is possible to put a deposit down too. Here is a link:-

http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php/race-models/b-maxiii-b-max4-iii-9785.html

[mikeyscott]

Just finished my builld, went together lovely :thumbsup:

Looks awesome dude

[skyaflake]

I'll be building mine next weekend.. I should receive some kits Tuesday. But I don't have time before to build. Going to build together with a friend, who also bought one. :thumbsup:

[dikke hond]

Oh snap, who is that guy? :D

[dMITIj]

Hello.

i want to buy the Titanium Turn Buckle and Titanium Tie-Rod Turn Buckle for the new B-MAX4 III.

Can anyone tell me witch Titanium Turn Buckle and Titanium Tie-Rod Turn Buckle and how many of each to get?

Best Regards.

[skyaflake]

I dont have the car yet, but I guess they didn't change (according to part numbers) the sizes, so you will need:

4x ZC-TB39, which brings it to a total of 8 and you will need 7. ;-)

Took the old manual, silly me

[dMITIj]

I dont have the car yet, but I guess they didn't change (according to part numbers) the sizes, so you will need:

4x ZC-TB39, which brings it to a total of 8 and you will need 7. ;-)

if u look at this part list for the B-MAX4 III there are 3 difference length http://www.teamyokomo.com/partslist/chassis/b_max43.html

[Big G]

to what shops?
lots of preorder's but none of us have seen one neither got one :cry: and now it's all sold.... id don't get it :confused:

Don't forget that CML distribute to Europe too.

[bally]

Turnbuckles required are *29mm, 42mm and 45mm, we have a limited number of 42mm in stock and lots on order.

Thanks
MB

[dMITIj]

Turnbuckles required are *29mm, 42mm and 45mm, we have a limited number of 42mm in stock and lots on order.

Thanks
MB

got this from a guy on rctech that have the new B-MAX4 II:

you will need:

2x 30mm
2x 45mm
3x 42mm

[Belsten]

It came from CML :D

[dMITIj]

It came from CML :D

Nice :drool:

what springs dos it come with?

[skyaflake]

Nice, how did you like building the car? No, or not much, modification/trimming needed?

[Belsten]

Kit springs are orange fronts and green rears

Went together very well no trimming or modding needed

[Gayo]

Looks great!

A bit XB4 inspired?


http://i.qkme.me/3vnvej.jpg


:lol:

[matdodd]

It came from CML :D

Very nice mate, I'm looking forward to building mine tonight :D

[discothesnake]

It came from CML :D


Very nice.

[dpackster1980]

Can't wait to get mine. It looks stunning. :thumbsup:

[SHY]

:lol:

LOL! C'est magnifique mon ami! :D

[Gayo]

All the credit goes to mekios mais merci quand même !

[dMITIj]

did any of you who have build the kit have problems with the screws fit into the front/rear shaft?

there seems to be a problem as in this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/309285-yokomo-bmax-4-a-65.html

[matdodd]

I had no problems with mine, it went together so well :wub

[Arnefles]

Does it come with 2*1.6 pistons?

[matdodd]

It comes with Yokomo no1, 2 and 3 pistons which are all 4 hole

[Arnefles]

Ok, like the B-max2 v.2...

Thanks! :-)

[Bastos]

Hello,

Here below, at the French Cup last weekend, a Bmax4 III in action...

http://imageshack.us/a/img708/3117/n0ij.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img14/7594/ajv0.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img692/127/rbho.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img809/4586/xntu.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img703/5087/lyaf.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img547/8746/yb2n.jpg

Regards,
;)

[OneKiwi]

Is that your?
if so how did it drive and what did you have before?

[mes]

It is Sylvain's. I saw Björn Prümper's car on Saturday, really nice piece of kit! :thumbsup:

[skyaflake]

With all these pictures coming up I'm really looking forward to build my 4. :D They all look so great.

[OneKiwi]

Can you mount the shocks on the rear of the rear tower?
Alu shock caps optional or included?

[Bastos]

Is that your?
if so how did it drive and what did you have before?

Hi Kimi,

Yes, it's not mine...
From Sylvain, the car is working well and "good enough" to catch the A main without real training & test with the Bmax4 III.
He has built the car "out of the box" with 2 holes pistons F&R ( Rear : Oil 30wd Asso with spring Yok Green - Front : Oil 40? I do not remember with spring Yok Orange ).
Gear diff, at the beginning with 10k Front & Rear and during the race with improvement he sets the oil to 10k Front & 5k Rear ).
Sway bars Front and rear at the beginning and he left the front during the race...
but more than talking, I let you see it in action, on the 2nd final main of the French Cup.( He finish 3rd on that main )

adydWCDj16E

[skyaflake]

Can you mount the shocks on the rear of the rear tower?
Alu shock caps optional or included?
Alu caps are optional and shocks are able to be mounted on the front and rear.

[lewise]

Hi Bastos, we ran ours to for the first time at the weekend in high grip, what did you find by changing the rear diff to 5000 helped with ? also did he remove the rear sway bar but leave the front ?

[mes]

Removing the sway bar and using thinner diff fluid in the rear should increase chassis roll and improve cornering.

[dMITIj]

How do ppl like the Yokomo spring's? do you use them ore use other?

i see some ppl on the rctech are useing the AE once even a Team Yokomo driver use them, so what are you going to use? :)

[mes]

I like them on my B-Max2, afaik they are manufactured for Yokomo by the same company as Kyosho and Avid RC springs. 4WD kit oranges and greens seem to work about everywhere. I tried the BB shocks on my son's standard B-Max4II once with oranges in the front, blues in the rear and the B-Max4II W 6-hole piston set-up, and they were brilliant. At that meeting in Duisburg, he achieved his best result so far. :thumbsup:

[dpackster1980]

did any of you who have build the kit have problems with the screws fit into the front/rear shaft?

there seems to be a problem as in this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/309285-yokomo-bmax-4-a-65.html

Yep, the rear centre shaft didn't have the threads formed deep enough luckily I found a shorter screw. Apart from this issue it's going well but I still haven't finished mine yet. The quality is second to none.

[dMITIj]

Yep, the rear centre shaft didn't have the threads formed deep enough luckily I found a shorter screw. Apart from this issue it's going well but I still haven't finished mine yet. The quality is second to none.


Thanks for the info :)

[dpackster1980]

One thing I will say is I'll be buying white wheels when they're out the kit wheels are horrible. :cry:

[M.Andrews]

I really like the look of bmax III. Looking at the pictures it seems the centre slipper and cvds are not aligned with the drive gearbox outputs. Is this the case and is there a reason for the off centre drive?

[discothesnake]

I'm just putting mine together and they are weird looking. It must be to get the motor as central as possible.

[SHY]

I'm just putting mine together and they are weird looking. It must be to get the motor as central as possible.

Agreed, not sexy that. Might rather have done the Tamiya Leonis solution then...

[OneKiwi]

Is the shell still flimsy as heck?

[discothesnake]

Yeah it's a lightweight shell but it's not too bad. I've never had any issues with a lightweight shell yet.

[skyaflake]

I never had issues with the LW B-Max4 II either.

[dpackster1980]

I really like the look of bmax III. Looking at the pictures it seems the centre slipper and cvds are not aligned with the drive gearbox outputs. Is this the case and is there a reason for the off centre drive?

Moving the motor closer to the centre reduces the torque effect of the drive train affecting the handling. It's something along those lines.

[dMITIj]

Yep, the rear centre shaft didn't have the threads formed deep enough luckily I found a shorter screw. Apart from this issue it's going well but I still haven't finished mine yet. The quality is second to none.

so i got my kit today BUT

for the shaft i had to use the two 2.5 x 6mm Button Head screws form the swaybar/rollbar/Stabilizer setup because the 2.6 x 8mm would not in any circumstances fit the shaft :eh?::eh?:

Apart from this issue and the manual is not that good it's going well but I still haven't finished mine yet.

The quality is second to none and i am very happy with this kit so far :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[M.Andrews]

Moving the motor closer to the centre reduces the torque effect of the drive train affecting the handling. It's something along those lines.

Ok thanks for the explaining it!

[dpackster1980]

For anyone building a new kit take note of the correction with the screw sizes for the servo mount otherwise you'll strip the floating servo mount. The bag also contains the correct washers for the motor mount as well.

[dMITIj]

Any one drove it yet? what do you think?

[dpackster1980]

Any one drove it yet? what do you think?

I was but due to my son getting the Winter bug it's not going to happen. Gutted.

[Brett.w]

Hi Guys can anyone recommend which non Yokomo front wheels will fit this car, I cannot find any Yokomo 12mm hex wheels yet.

Thanks

Brett

[Disco-Panda]

Hi Guys can anyone recommend which non Yokomo front wheels will fit this car, I cannot find any Yokomo 12mm hex wheels yet.

Thanks

Brett

Kyosho & Schumacher will fit

[matdodd]

Like Joe says Kyosho or schumacher wheels are a direct fit or you can replace the front hex with the old B-max 4 front hex and run Losi or AE wheels

[Brett.w]

Thanks guys for your help

[OneKiwi]

Thoughts about the buggy? Who else has driven them? Thoughts?

[matdodd]

I ran it for the first time on Sunday at Chadderton indoors and was impressed with how responsive the car was to setup changes.
It felt like I made good progress during the day finding a setup as I thought the kit one wasn't to suitable for our style of track.

The only problem I had with the car was a broken front inner hinge pin which sheared when I clipped a pipe but I think the hinge pin was probably over hardened as the wishbone was fine.

On a whole I think the cars build quality and finish is awesome and to finish 3rd against some good drivers first time out it has loads of potential.

[dMITIj]

Could some one plz make a Sticky "setup thread" for the B-MAX4 III :)

[dMITIj]

How is the BMAX4 iii to drive compared to the DEX410v3, K1?

[mes]

As the DEX410v4 will adopt the more traditional battery layout of most other cars on the market including the Max, without having tried the III, I'd guess as a typical saddle pack buggy it is easier and more consistent to drive than the DEX. For me, the plastic tub B-Max4 has been the easiest to drive and set-up buggy since I started with the Tamiya Grashopper some time ago, and I can't imagine the new kit will be worse. ;)

[tyreman]

Well it's finished, my first shaft drive car since i had a predator 96 international back in the day.
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv211/brianpreddy/20131123_154754.jpg

[freddie]

Looks good let me know how it goes !

[GRIFF55]

As usual Brian, good looking car!!!
Good choice too ;-)

[dMITIj]

If anyone is interested in a cheap new B-MAX4 III here you go:
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140383

[skyaflake]

I've driven the car yesterday for the first time. It was adopting to 4WD, since I drive 2WD mainly.

I read on several forums that the inner hinge pins were prone to breaking. So I took in some spares from my old B-Max4 II kit - actually I took the whole front assembly with me -.

First heat (after 1 minute): first front inner hinge pin broken. So I swapped it to the old one. Second heat was more a moment for me to adapt to 4WD driving. Car was very smooth and easy to drive. Easier than the previous one. In the third heat I broke the other front hinge pin. So I've swapped that one also. After the swap I changed some things in the default setups to see how the car would react on changes. I kept driving and driving. Really great stuff. Enjoyed it.

And on my last heat I broke (after a slight touch(!)) a rear inner hinge pin. So I swapped out both when I came home.

Hinge pins feel weaker than the old ones. I will try the "new" ones again soon. But at the moment I'll stick to my current setup. People didn't know what car it was :thumbsup:. Some drivers liked to car by it's looks.

Note: I'm a average driver, I don't hit things often. It's no complain about the hinge pins. Just something I've noticed. Jörn Neumann was at the track yesterday and I'm far slower than him so that's where I'm at :lol:

Today I have to build up the 2WD for next weekend, a indoor race. But I will drive the 4WD soon again. It's so much fun.

[mes]

Breaking inner hinge pins? No big issue, probably overhardened in the first series of kits. As I got new diff outdrives for my first series B-Max2 before I even ran the car, I am sure they'll fix it very soon. ;)

[discothesnake]

Breaking inner hinge pins? No big issue, probably overhardened in the first series of kits. As I got new diff outdrives for my first series B-Max2 before I even ran the car, I am sure they'll fix it very soon. ;)


It's a big issue if it ruins your race! I haven't run mine yet but I will be looking out for this. If there is a genuine problem with these he whinge pins hope yokomo do the decent thing and supply us with replacements.

It's something I never broke on the old car is i will make sure I have spares.

[bombman]

Hi Guys,
do you know the exact measurements of these hinge pins?
3x47mm or 3x48mm?
Thanks
Guy

[dpackster1980]

Ran mine for the first time. It had a lot of understeer but by the end of the day it was spot on after a few tweaks. One of the major changes was removing the centre weight and running the cells forward. I used no1 pistons in the back shocks from the beginning of the build as having smaller holes in the rear makes no sense.

So far I'm well impressed. :thumbsup:

[dpackster1980]

Cracked a front shock tower too but that's because of a silly jump (the worst jump in the world).

I was concerned about the hinge pins after hearing about people braking them but after the pounding it took off the jump (again the worst jump ever built in the whole of mankind) I think it could be a bad batch because I should have broken one easily.

[tyreman]

Does anyone know the internal ratio of the car??

[450kid]

First run out today. Car felt good just need more track time struggled with steering a bit. Was on polished wood floor dropped diffs to 7k front 5k rear made a huge difference. Am going to drop front to 6k next time out.

Broke front hinge pin too. My mate did a hinge pin aswell as cracking front shock tower.

Looking forward to next time out with it. Overall car was good just need to sort hinge pins and get more track time to adjust set-up.

[neallewis]

is it possible to double up on the front shock towers?

[450kid]

Yes I would if thought it is possible. Neil do you know anyone that will stock 3mm titanium round bar so I could make some hinge pins?
cheers
Ben

[gainsy]

Anyone got a link to the online manual?

[Jamesy]

Does anyone know the internal ratio of the car??

40/17 = 2.3529

[Arn0]

Anyone got a link to the online manual?
Not yet

Does anyone know the internal ratio of the car??
2.35 as mentioned on the setup sheet
Speaking of setup sheet, a better quality editable was done, available on petit for anyone looking of it.

[skyaflake]

Not yet


2.35 as mentioned on the setup sheet
Speaking of setup sheet, a better quality editable was done, available on petit for anyone looking of it.
Thanks :thumbsup:

is it possible to double up on the front shock towers?
Yes. But, why? The tower is 3.6MM thick if I remember correctly. If there are some durability issues with the towers there will be people stepping up and creating thicker ones :D

[dikke hond]

If there are some durability issues with the towers there will be people stepping up and creating thicker ones :D

Let me guess? :D :thumbsup:

[corkyjohnson75]

Cracked a front shock tower too but that's because of a silly jump (the worst jump in the world).

I was concerned about the hinge pins after hearing about people braking them but after the pounding it took off the jump (again the worst jump ever built in the whole of mankind) I think it could be a bad batch because I should have broken one easily.

It was also the worst track in the world to .

[dpackster1980]

It was also the worst track in the world to .

Car was excellent by the end of the day though. Get one bought. ;)

[dpackster1980]

First run out today. Car felt good just need more track time struggled with steering a bit. Was on polished wood floor dropped diffs to 7k front 5k rear made a huge difference. Am going to drop front to 6k next time out.

Broke front hinge pin too. My mate did a hinge pin aswell as cracking front shock tower.

Looking forward to next time out with it. Overall car was good just need to sort hinge pins and get more track time to adjust set-up.

I ran 7k front and 3k rear. Took the weight out of the back and ran the cells forward which helped improve steering. I moved the linked inboard on the front hub and moved the ball studs forwad on the steering link. The balance was perfect.

You'll always brake a shock tower because of the rigidity of the gearbox casing and the tower. At least it's not a dnf which is worse.

Hinge pins are on my shopping list when they are back in stock.

[dpackster1980]

Breaking inner hinge pins? No big issue, probably overhardened in the first series of kits. As I got new diff outdrives for my first series B-Max2 before I even ran the car, I am sure they'll fix it very soon. ;)

If anyone does break a hinge pin and is stuck then the XB4 front hinge pins look bang on. Luckily I had a fellow racers car in my house he's selling and checked the length against the manual. :thumbsup:

[Steven Forster]

If anyone does break a hinge pin and is stuck then the XB4 front hinge pins look bang on. Luckily I had a fellow racers car in my house he's selling and checked the length against the manual. :thumbsup:

So you have a few spares then pack ;) ha ha

[neallewis]

Picked mine up today, plus a few hop-ups and spares. Not begun the build as yet, but not in a rush. I believe there is a hinge-pin carepack coming from Yokomo to fix the over hardened parts that shipped in kits. Meanwhile the xray parts do fit.

[discothesnake]

I'm pretty sure the pins from the older car also fit.

It's a nice build. It weighs a ton!!!

[OneKiwi]

Looking foward to your comparison with the XB4

[skyaflake]

I'm pretty sure the pins from the older car also fit.

It's a nice build. It weighs a ton!!!
They do fit. I'm using the pins from the II.

@OneKiwi, what do you want to know? I've driven a XB4 before :p

[dMITIj]

They do fit. I'm using the pins from the II.

@OneKiwi, what do you want to know? I've driven a XB4 before :p

so BMAX4 III vs XB4 what do you think? :)

[OneKiwi]

so BMAX4 III vs XB4 what do you think? :)

Yep a little along these lines, I am really happy with my mr2 and also have the xb4 whick I am also really happy with. I have gotten it to a stage that Im pleased with.

As always new stuff looks good and im longing for another build which I love. However I am seriously considering the XB4 2wd because of the parts compatibility 95% is pretty good share rate.

I can justify a new 2wd more than the 4wd, if I was to get something. Saying that we just don't have the tracks and choice here so its a little catch 22.

[skyaflake]

so BMAX4 III vs XB4 what do you think? :)
The XB4 was really nice to build. But to my surprising (compared with the B-Max4 II also), building the III was a pleasure as well. Everything went together smoothly.

I like the shocks on the Yokomo more than I do on the X-Ray. Easier to build and adjust.

Despite the weak hingepins on the III (guess it will be fixed), the car is great. Less initial weak spots on the III than on the XB4.
The slipper on the III, imo, is better than the XB4. Both drivetrains are really smooth.

Both drive really great out of the box. Both cars are top quality and in the end there is not so many difference. Just personal preference.

Compared to the II, there are a lot of improvements on the III. Car is so much better.

[wylie]

Hi, I'm thinking of taking the plunge after 3 1/2 years of Durango, Just got a couple of questions
What hop ups are required? (if any) understand there maybe hinge pin issues, but should be resolved.
Do Losi rims fit?
Heard there are some crosshead screws not all hexes, what size so they can be replaced during build.
Any other info or build tips!!
Thanks.

[dMITIj]

Hi, I'm thinking of taking the plunge after 3 1/2 years of Durango, Just got a couple of questions
What hop ups are required? (if any) understand there maybe hinge pin issues, but should be resolved.
Do Losi rims fit?
Heard there are some crosshead screws not all hexes, what size so they cany be replaced during build.
Any other info or build tips!!
Thanks.

I was told that the new "batch" of yokomo B4 III will not have the problem with the hinge pins, but you should talk to your local dealer if he got the new Batch.

[discothesnake]

No hop ups are needed. Hinge pin problem is apparently being resolved but if in doubt the pins from the older car are a straight fit.

Wheel wise, I have fitted the smaller front hex from the older car and this allows me to fit associated wheels. The newer AE rear wheels are 12mm hex. I think the offset on Schumacher wheels us different. Kyosho front wheels fit perfectly too but the rears need drilled out to 5mm and you need to put a washer behind the nut.

Dave

[dMITIj]

No hop ups are needed. Hinge pin problem is apparently being resolved but if in doubt the pins from the older car are a straight fit.

Wheel wise, I have fitted the smaller front hex from the older car and this allows me to fit associated wheels. The newer AE rear wheels are 12mm hex. I think the offset on Schumacher wheels us different. Kyosho front wheels fit perfectly too but the rears need drilled out to 5mm and you need to put a washer behind the nut.

Dave

so the new Schumacher wheels is a direct fit ore am i wrong? (i like black wheels) :D

[discothesnake]

Yes they go on as hexes are same size but I've been told that the offsets are slightly different which would only cause issues if you are racing at an official meeting I suppose.

[dMITIj]

Yes they go on as hexes are same size but I've been told that the offsets are slightly different which would only cause issues if you are racing at an official meeting I suppose.

okay thanks :)

[dpackster1980]

Hi, I'm thinking of taking the plunge after 3 1/2 years of Durango, Just got a couple of questions
What hop ups are required? (if any) understand there maybe hinge pin issues, but should be resolved.
Do Losi rims fit?
Heard there are some crosshead screws not all hexes, what size so they can be replaced during build.
Any other info or build tips!!
Thanks.

No hot ups required just buy the smaller front hexes so you can run Associated and JConcepts wheels that's it.

I used to run a Durango and the Yokomo pisses all over it . The Durango was stressful to keep it together over a 5min run and it would bite your head off if you pushed too hard it was a quick car if you kept it together. The Yokomo has loads of steering and the balance is amazing. I can push the BMax and it loves it.

If you get one don't use the setup out of the book, put no1 pistons in the rear shocks. Put the piston in the front flat side up, ball stud on the inner hole on the front hub and steering links forward. DO NOT use the additional weight between the cells . The book set up isn't suited to Uk tracks and I found the car lacking steering and turn in. Now I've changed it the car is perfect.

If you're worried about hinge pins the XB4 ones fit.

[neallewis]

No hot ups required just buy the smaller front hexes so you can run Associated and JConcepts wheels that's it.

I used to run a Durango and the Yokomo pisses all over it . The Durango was stressful to keep it together over a 5min run and it would bite your head off if you pushed too hard it was a quick car if you kept it together. The Yokomo has loads of steering and the balance is amazing. I can push the BMax and it loves it.

If you get one don't use the setup out of the book, put no1 pistons in the rear shocks. Put the piston in the front flat side up, ball stud on the inner hole on the front hub and steering links forward. DO NOT use the additional weight between the cells . The book set up isn't suited to Uk tracks and I found the car lacking steering and turn in. Now I've changed it the car is perfect.

If you're worried about hinge pins the XB4 ones fit.

I'm just building mine. interesting what you say about the lipo weight. what tracks have you run it at?
What oils?

are you running the front hubs forward or back?

I picked up the BMAX4 2 front pins. same size as the iii. I've got some xray ones in my box too. There is a care pack on its way from yok I believe to sort it out.

[dpackster1980]

I'm just building mine. interesting what you say about the lipo weight. what tracks have you run it at?
What oils?

are you running the front hubs forward or back?

I picked up the BMAX4 2 front pins. same size as the iii. I've got some xray ones in my box too. There is a care pack on its way from yok I believe to sort it out.

I run on a mix of carpet and vanished cork. I run 7k front oil and 5k rear diff oil. Any higher in the front would probably be too much unless you run on astro outdoor. 27wt shock rear and 35wt front. I run the cells forward as well. I run medium wheelbase as the car is already longer than most.

Leave the weight out as it takes away too much steering again though high bite astro the weight will come in handy.

[dpackster1980]

Whatever the manual says for the front hub spacing. That's one thing I didn't play with.

[dMITIj]

Its gonna be nice when more ppl post there setups for this Yoko :thumbsup:

[dMITIj]

is there any AVID 2+2 for the BMAX4 III? if so were to buy it? :)

[mes]

Do you mean the 2+2 pistons? According to their website the Associated ones are a direct fit. (AE, Losi, Kyo, Yok)
Available e.g. from Avid's shop or amainhobbies.

[Danny Harrison]

is there any AVID 2+2 for the BMAX4 III? if so were to buy it? :)
there is at pdub racing, I use ghea 44.2 pistons in my yokomo shocks. perfect fit.

[rc_penguin]

Are the geared diffs available anywhere as a complete set? So they can be fitted to the older models? Assuming they do fit of course :)

[dMITIj]

Do you mean the 2+2 pistons? According to their website the Associated ones are a direct fit. (AE, Losi, Kyo, Yok)
Available e.g. from Avid's shop or amainhobbies.


sorry yes Pistons.

Thanks ill look aty them ;)

[dMITIj]

there is at pdub racing, I use ghea 44.2 pistons in my yokomo shocks. perfect fit.


Thanks.

what is "ghea"?

[SHY]

Thanks.

what is "ghea"?

http://www.ghea.se/GHEARacing.php

[dMITIj]

http://www.ghea.se/GHEARacing.php

Thanks :)

[SHY]

How does the new Yoke drive & feel compared to the XB4?

[dMITIj]

The XB4 was really nice to build. But to my surprising (compared with the B-Max4 II also), building the III was a pleasure as well. Everything went together smoothly.

I like the shocks on the Yokomo more than I do on the X-Ray. Easier to build and adjust.

Despite the weak hingepins on the III (guess it will be fixed), the car is great. Less initial weak spots on the III than on the XB4.
The slipper on the III, imo, is better than the XB4. Both drivetrains are really smooth.

Both drive really great out of the box. Both cars are top quality and in the end there is not so many difference. Just personal preference.

Compared to the II, there are a lot of improvements on the III. Car is so much better.

How does the new Yoke drive & feel compared to the XB4?

Some thoughts above :)

i don't think many has been running their BMAX4 III that much yet to tell -+ and so on. :)

[SHY]

Thx! :thumbsup:

[Arnefles]

I tryed mine for the first time this weekend at Skien, Norway on carpet and it felt some much smoother and easy to drive than the II!

I qualified for the A and ended up at 6'place.

The car is much quicker arround the corners and it is so out-of-the-box-car:-)

The slipper. is from another world, it is smooooth! The old one was no good at all.

The car is very solid also!

Recomended!

Any idea where to get yellow front rims with 12mm hex for this car?

[mes]

Team Yokomo Europe might be worth a try. ;)

[Arnefles]

No hop ups are needed. Hinge pin problem is apparently being resolved but if in doubt the pins from the older car are a straight fit.

Wheel wise, I have fitted the smaller front hex from the older car and this allows me to fit associated wheels. The newer AE rear wheels are 12mm hex. I think the offset on Schumacher wheels us different. Kyosho front wheels fit perfectly too but the rears need drilled out to 5mm and you need to put a washer behind the nut.

Dave

When using Kyosho wheels front, is it the same offset? I use TLR22 rear...

[skyaflake]

All Yokomo dealers are able to supply you with the new wheels. :thumbsup:

[discothesnake]

When using Kyosho wheels front, is it the same offset? I use TLR22 rear...


Yes they are pretty much spot on. I am changing to the older smaller hex so I can use AE wheels all round.

[cryer-evo]

hi all im looking at getting this car for next year looking at pics of it would aper to me that some people are running the rear shox at the back of the tower and some running them in the front ? y is this ?

[dikke hond]

All Yokomo dealers are able to supply you with the new wheels. :thumbsup:
:thumbsup:

[dMITIj]

I tryed mine for the first time this weekend at Skien, Norway on carpet and it felt some much smoother and easy to drive than the II!

I qualified for the A and ended up at 6'place.

The car is much quicker arround the corners and it is so out-of-the-box-car:-)

The diff. is from another world, it is smooooth! The old one was no good at all.

The car is very solid also!

Recomended!

Any idea where to get yellow front rims with 12mm hex for this car?

what track? all out of the box setup?

[Arnefles]

what track? all out of the box setup?

It was a track just made for a weekend in Skien, Norway. It was a small/midium track on carpet with mid. jumps. I used a 6.5t without timing.

[Arnefles]

All Yokomo dealers are able to supply you with the new wheels. :thumbsup:

I bought the car and some parts from Yokomo.eu, but the shipping for just wheels are to expensive from yokomo.eu. 15 Euros! (Amain 0.59usd!)

Amain and Japan race and drift are out of stock.

Same offset on the Kyoshowheels?

[Arnefles]

Yes they are pretty much spot on. I am changing to the older smaller hex so I can use AE wheels all round.

I have used the 10mm now, but had some problems with the pins this weekend and want to make the move to 12mm ;-)

[dMITIj]

do any ppl have any good setups for astro? :thumbsup: (post them in the setup sticky plz)

[skyaflake]

I'm working on a carpet indoor setup.. Will work on a Astro setup next year when I drive outside.:thumbsup:

[cryer-evo]

hi all im looking at getting this car for next year looking at pics of it would aper to me that some people are running the rear shox at the back of the tower and some running them in the front ? y is this ?

any one got a answer ?

[cryer-evo]

hi all dose any one no if the cat sx3 diff will fit in this car ?

[skyaflake]

any one got a answer ?
Depends on low or high grip tracks.

[cryer-evo]

Ok cool so forword for hi grip and back for low grip yes ?

[raymondkerr]

is there anyway to use shorty lipos in the new Bmax4 III ?

[skyaflake]

Probably, yes, it will take a whole new chassis, the car isn't designed for it. :D

[mes]

For anyone in need of or interested in:

PSM 4mm shock towers (http://www.psm-shop.com/option-parts/yokomo-bmax4-iii/)

http://www.psm-shop.com/media/image/thumbnail/ps01605-en_720x600.jpg
http://www.psm-shop.com/media/image/thumbnail/ps01606-en_720x600.jpg

http://www.psm-shop.com/media/image/thumbnail/ps01605-en_720x600.jpghttp://www.psm-shop.com/media/image/thumbnail/ps01605-en_720x600.jpg

[skyaflake]

They look great !

Besides... there should be some more news about the B-Max4 III soon :thumbsup:

[muratti]

What do you mean exactly?

[nicmo]

those new carbon towers will come in handy, now the bulkheads need a look at.

[GRIFF55]

Borrowed a mates last weekend, very very impressive car straight out of the box!
Cheers belsten

[jokersat]

where can i download the manual???

[eyeayen]

where can i download the manual???

http://www.teamyokomo.com/download/index.html

I'd keep checking here, although currently it isn't uploaded for the new Bmax4 MkIII, the older ones are there.

Or contact MB Models or CML Distribution they might be able to point you in the right direction ?

[Belsten]

naoto's set up is a very good starting point

[contrast]

I've just finished building my new bmax4 and I've put a low profile Savox servo in it, with the kit servo horn but I'm experiencing a problem, I can get full left hand lock, but when I go to get full right hand loc,k the plastic turnbuckle hits the servo body restricting the full lock.
Sorry if I'm being thick but this driving me mad.... Any help would be really appreciated...:(

[discothesnake]

I've just finished building my new bmax4 and I've put a low profile Savox servo in it, with the kit servo horn but I'm experiencing a problem, I can get full left hand lock, but when I go to get full right hand loc,k the plastic turnbuckle hits the servo body restricting the full lock.
Sorry if I'm being thick but this driving me mad.... Any help would be really appreciated...:(

Get a photograph on here showing the problem. You must have something wrong on it. Just checked mine and it's nowhere near the servo on full lock.

Dave

[cpzao]

I've just finished building my new bmax4 and I've put a low profile Savox servo in it, with the kit servo horn but I'm experiencing a problem, I can get full left hand lock, but when I go to get full right hand loc,k the plastic turnbuckle hits the servo body restricting the full lock.
Sorry if I'm being thick but this driving me mad.... Any help would be really appreciated...:(

Hi,

I use a regular savox servo and I faced the same problem. What I did to solve it was to make the steering link longer than what they say on the manual in order for the steering to hit full right lock earlier. With some trimming adjustments on the radio you should be fine. I'm not sure if this somehow affects the handling of the car.

[eyeayen]

I don't own one of these ( although they do interest me so I'm keen to know how you get over this ) but almost all the other cars are designed like this. I have an old Schumacher SX3 and that's designed in the same way.

Can you get a longer servo horn that won't rub the body shell so it clears it easier ?

Are you sure your servo was set dead centre when you did everything up ? Is the travel the same both ways as it seems strange it's only doing it one way ?

Hope it's an easy fix !

[wylie]

I had do do the same as cpzao to try and keep all the right angles, I think the manual is wrong. My link is 27mm long.

[Arnefles]

Hi,

I use a regular savox servo and I faced the same problem. What I did to solve it was to make the steering link longer than what they say on the manual in order for the steering to hit full right lock earlier. With some trimming adjustments on the radio you should be fine. I'm not sure if this somehow affects the handling of the car.

I also made the steeringlink longer than the manual said...

[cpzao]

Hi,

finally I had some time to try my kit, yesterday on carpet.

It was my first time on a 4x4 and I was amazed on how easy it was to drive.

I managed to break one front tower. Normally I see that carbon simply breaks and that's it. On my case and on other cases of this kit, what we see is that the carbon fiber "blades" start to separate from each other. I just glued it, mounted the shocks on the inside hole of the tower and I ran all day long without any issues. Can't wait to try the one from PSM.

I also noticed that the steering link outer ball cups are so close to the rims that they touch them. Has someone noticed this? These ball cups are getting worned out due to rim-scuffing.

A lot of people kept telling me that the car had a lof of front with out-of-the-box setup. I was using blue minipin on the front and yellow on the back and I noticed lack of front. I hope the blue minipins were making all this difference.

Cheers

[contrast]

Hi,

I use a regular savox servo and I faced the same problem. What I did to solve it was to make the steering link longer than what they say on the manual in order for the steering to hit full right lock earlier. With some trimming adjustments on the radio you should be fine. I'm not sure if this somehow affects the handling of the car.

Cheers for the help guys got it sorted now....:thumbsup:

[muratti]

Hey guys, one question: the kit does come with 10mm hexes all round? If you would want to switch to Kyosho 12mm wheels are there some 12mm hexes from Yokomo or would the Kyosho hexes be a direct fit?
I am very tempted to try this car but just don't want to go back from 12mm hexes again.

[neallewis]

Hey guys, one question: the kit does come with 10mm hexes all round? If you would want to switch to Kyosho 12mm wheels are there some 12mm hexes from Yokomo or would the Kyosho hexes be a direct fit?
I am very tempted to try this car but just don't want to go back from 12mm hexes again.

it's got 12mm hexes all round.
the rear offset is different to AE 12mm. you can get an AE 10mm front hex to run regular AE front wheels.

Lee martin was running kyosho fronts and Schumacher rears this weekend. I guess he doesn't like yellow wheels?

[discothesnake]

Kyosho fronts go straight on, rears dont fit great. They need drilled out and a spacer fitted between the nut and wheel.

I have fitted 10mm hexes to front and i am running AE wheels all round.

Not sure how far out the rears are but it's not much.

[muratti]

Thanks this helps a lot! So i assume aka's 12mm hex would also need to be drilled out as they write on their description that they fit to Kyosho 12 mm hexes.
So i guess best is runnning Yokomo wheels or 10mm AE wheels.

[Disco-Panda]

Kyosho fronts go straight on, rears dont fit great. They need drilled out and a spacer fitted between the nut and wheel.

I have fitted 10mm hexes to front and i am running AE wheels all round.

Not sure how far out the rears are but it's not much.

Your correct about the Kyosho wheels on the rear they are a tad tight

Ive also found the new Schumacher wheels will fit straight on and also TLR rear wheels are a straight fit,

[KRob]

B-Max4 III manual now available on the CML site, PDF download on the right of the B-Max4 III page:

B-Max4 III Product page (http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_product.php?productId=0000007725)