Mad Monkey conv' with TC02c evo conversion kit

[Crazy L]

Hi guys

Just a quick one. I have an Ansmann mad monkey. It has a few Team C parts on it, and it goes ok. I'm of the thinking though that its transverse stick pack chassis may be letting it down a little the more I get to grips with 2wd again and the harder I push it.

So, being short of a few bob, And thus not affording a whole kit, I spied the conversion kit in Kev Lees online shop the other day for a meager £75, much better than buying a new car.

I'm after your opinions on whether this would improve my car no end or would I simply be wasting my time?

Many thanks.

[Clive Loynes]

Hi Crazy L,

That is what I have done, although I didn't part with £75.

I bought the chassis, which is something like £14, and put the rear end of my pre-evo car on to it.

That would call for a little work with a file for you or you could buy one of my aluminium T-Plates, (£26) that stiffens the rear of the chassis such that the "waterfall" brace can be left off. You would then need to buy the Evo gearbox casing (£5) and put all of your existing bits into it.

This leaves you with a ball diff, which a lot of people prefer anyway!

You can think about the gear diff as a further upgrade.

Follow the link in my signature to my facebook page and scroll down far enough and you will find a picture of how I have configured the car. I used the battery posts from the Mad Monkey/Lupuz to locate and hold down the battery.

EDIT: Just remembered, you would need the Evo motor plate too.

EDIT 2: Yes, I think it is worth doing.

[Crazy L]

Hi Crazy L,

That is what I have done, although I didn't part with £75.

I bought the chassis, which is something like £14, and put the rear end of my pre-evo car on to it.

That would call for a little work with a file for you or you could buy one of my aluminium T-Plates, (£26) that stiffens the rear of the chassis such that the "waterfall" brace can be left off. You would then need to buy the Evo gearbox casing (£5) and put all of your existing bits into it.

This leaves you with a ball diff, which a lot of people prefer anyway!

You can think about the gear diff as a further upgrade.

Follow the link in my signature to my facebook page and scroll down far enough and you will find a picture of how I have configured the car. I used the battery posts from the Mad Monkey/Lupuz to locate and hold down the battery.

EDIT: Just remembered, you would need the Evo motor plate too.

Thanks Clive

I like your idea so thought I'd tot it all up for the parts I want. Prices from inside line and rounded up/down to nearest quid.

chassis - £15
body - £19
motor plate - £10
gear case - £5

So that's 50 quid and I don't get a gear diff, which I like, or the gearbox support or cell brace. Hmmm. I see your way of thinking, but I like a gear diff and the newer shell. This is before I buy one of your. no doubt quality, pieces of machining.:D

On the face of it, your idea seemed better than mine, but once I'd done the maths according to what I want, it switched, sorry.;)

[Crazy L]

Ha ha ha, just seen your 2nd edit Clive :lol:

[Ashlandchris]

There is a specced up TC02C in sale section at moment I think - noticed it last night. £60 for car so you've get some spares too?

Here t'is

http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171723

[Clive Loynes]

No problem.

I use the Penguin body for the narrow pre-evo car so that I get the gear cover. They are £12.

I don't know if the recent parts have been improved but the original T-Plates were a bit wonky, in that they gave different toe and anti-squat settings on either side.

The current trend with this car is to go for a low C of G gearbox that pushes the motor as far forward as it will go. I'm working on that now and it will fit my T-Plate after a free mod.

Inside Line also do a carbon T-Plate and separate RF hanger if you don't want mine. :-) The kit one should really be avoided.

[madmax]

The advantage of the saddle chassis is it moves the weight balance to a better position in the car. With the stick style chassis the weight is further back making the car harder to drive when you push it. I use to run the x2c

[Clive Loynes]

The advantage of the saddle chassis is it moves the weight balance to a better position in the car. With the stick style chassis the weight is further back making the car harder to drive when you push it. I use to run the x2c


This is true. And the Evo chassis is 8mm longer, which helps as well.

The rear shock tower mount that comes with the conversion kit is a weakness because the lugs that mount the inner end of the camber links has a tendancy to break. There is an aluminium upgrade from Team-C (circa £50) or you could go for my C-Lugs at £20 plus £5 to modify either your present rear brace or the broken rear shock tower mount. :D

Both of these options give the advantage over the pre-evo car of having the ball-studs for the camber links facing upwards, so that you can adjust the mounting position without dismantling half the car.

[Crazy L]

There is an aluminium upgrade from Team-C (circa £50) or you could go for my C-Lugs at £20 plus £5 to modify either your present rear brace or the broken rear shock tower mount.
Both of these options give the advantage of having the ball-studs for the camber links facing upwards, so that you can adjust the mounting position without dismantling half the car.

That's what gets on my wick with my MM. A right pain in the jacksie.