Team Tekin Q&A

[Randy p]

Hey Guys,

Randy Pike from Tekin. I'm here to help answer any technical questions you may have about our products.

As you know we have some of the Predator guys using the Tekin RS Pro and Redline motors in their cars.

If you have any questions, please ask away!

[Lowie]

well, let's start then :)

I do have a Tekin R1 Pro, but it is actually mounted in my onroad Tamiya 416.
In my Predator I have a MambaMax and CC 5700KV motor actually, but I was already considering a switch.

Which motor would do great in the Pred ... for driving on large dust tracks, or on grass?
Would a 6.5 BL-motor be sufficient or suted?

[Randy p]

Great,

On the large dusty track the 6.5 would be my first choice. It's got loads of power and is easy to drive smooth on the bottom end. It can be adjusted to gave a huge top end as well when coupled with the RS. For the Pred and any other 4wd offroad car running mods I recomend the Pro versions either R1 or RS Pro.

If you have the R1 Pro and want to use a sensroless motor my choice would be the 362 or the 448. The 448 being my first choice.

I should be getting a Pred myself to run here soon so I'll have a lot more input for you.

[DCM]

for grass tracks, the 362 is definately the one to go for, the 448 is a little softer, so may not be aggressive enough on the grass.

Hey Randy, welcome to the world of oople!!

[Alfonzo]

Hi Randy,

I haven't done much background research, so apologies if this is a 'dumb' question - but can I hook up the R1 (Pro) speedo to my Mamba Max 5700kv motor (sensorless)? Can I hook the speedo up to my laptop for altering settings etc.?

Great looking products BTW.

Cheers

Al

[jimmy]

Hey Randy, great thread, I will make this a sticky and thanks for your support.

[Lowie]

and if I had the choice ... should I choose a sensored or a sensorless Tekin BL-motor?
(As the R1 Pro can run both and budget being the only argument)

[DCM]

I would go for the 5.5 as you can always turn the power down a little, whereas the 6.5 can, on a big track in 4wd, feel a little lacking. If you turn the limiter down on the ESC, it softens up the power delivery on the 5.5 for dirt, plus you can go to a softer throttle profile too.

Alfonzo, yes, you can hook up any brushless motor to the R1Pro and the RS, the major difference is, the RS can use the Sensor harness. Yes, if you have the hotwire, you can connect the R1 to your laptop, update the firmware, have much finer adjustments to the different adjustments too.

[Alfonzo]

I'm still a little confused. So can the Pro run sensored motors, or just the RS? Is the Pro better spec? (in terms of resistance, etc). I want the option to run both sensored and sensorless if possible.

[DCM]

the RS and R1 can run both sensored and sensorless motors.

The RS has the sensor wire port

The Pro versions of both have lower resistance and can take a much hotter motor, the non-Pro version are good to about a 5.5

[Martin-Barbour]

The R1 Pro will run sensored and sensorless motors, you just don't hook up the sensor wires (on a sensored motor) as there's no where to plug them in because you don't need it.

I run my R1 Pro with a Novak 5.5R with no problems at all once you're running the latest firmware which can be uploaded by anyone with a Hotwire, may already be installed if it was a recent purchase....

Mart

[Lowie]

the previous posts are kinda confusing to me:
The RS has the sensor wire port

doesn't the R1??
I have a R1 and I do hook up a sensored BL motor with the sensor cable.

Also, may I repeat my question?
Is there a reason to choose Sensored over sensorless in terms of performance with the Tekin-esc and -motors?

[Alfonzo]

I'm still a tad confused because I'm being a plank. And how much are these Hotwire things? Do they come with the speedo?

[DCM]

No, the RS has the sensor port, the R1 doesn't.

Sensored gives a little better feel at the lower end with mod motors, and with 'spec' motors, makes them faster.

Sensorless is very good with mod motors.

the RS can run as a sensorless or sensored speedo.

the R1 can only run as sensorless

[niggs98]

Also, may I repeat my question?
Is there a reason to choose Sensored over sensorless in terms of performance with the Tekin-esc and -motors?

i havent personally run the r1 but from my understanding a sensored motor wil be smother from a standing start whilst a sensorless will be smoother and more efficient once up and running, the rs pro uses the best of both by starting as a sensored and switching over to a sensorless once up and running and also will switch totally to sensorless if it finds a problem with the sensor lead or sensors at all so that you will finish your run rather than having the car stop for no reason, im currently using the rs pro and am finding it one of the most drivable speedo's i have used, the hot wire also really helps as you can download software changes easily and have finer adjusment on the speedo as well
:thumbsup:

[niggs98]

I'm still a tad confused because I'm being a plank. And how much are these Hotwire things? Do they come with the speedo?

the hot wires are about 35 quid (ish) or were when i got mine and unfortunatly dont come with the speedo, good thing is that they work with all tekin speedos as they simply connect to the reciever wire so they are a buy once and use with every tekin you buy from now on ;), also if you have a laptop it makes it a lot easier to adjust your speedo track side using the sliders rather than counting lights like on other makes :thumbsup:

[millzy]

The Hot wire is dead easy to use, and really helps you fine tune the Speedo to the track and to get the best out of the motors your chose to run

[Lowie]

well, I do run a sensored BL motor with myTekin ESC so I must be mistaken. It must be a RS then, and not a R1.

[Randy p]

Lowie, DCM and the others are right. If there's a sensored port on the esc it's the RS.

If you have the RS you can run both sensored and sensorless motors. The fact that was also stated corretly was that with the RS you have the ability to choose between Sensored only drive OR Dual mode which is a sensored start and sensorless operation afterwards.

My personal current ride is a BJ4WE with either the Tekin Redline 6.5 or the 5.5 depending on traction. When setup properly I'd put our 6.5 up agains most others 5.5s. The Hotwire gives us an advantage over the others with easy tuning, updating your software, and soon user programable/storable throttle profiles.

When we make an improvement, you only need to download the FREE software, not a new esc.

Jimmy, thanks for making it a sticky it's much appreciated. Hit me up when you get time: [email protected]


Sorry for the delayed response guys I had the wrong email listed.

[caneye]

yup .. a real benefit of the Hotwire (currently unrivalled by any other competitor) is the ability to download new RS software when Tekin releases it (1st by downloading on to your notebook) onto your RS. this means new functions, customisations, etc .. it's like a firmware update, but doing it yourself.

but the ONE big thing i like about my RS is that it allows you to start and complete a race even with a faulty or missing sensor lead! it switches to the hybrid mode. woooo ...

friend of mine had a 5.5 and 6.5 BL motor that couldn't run on either his GTB or Sphere. they were as good as paperweights, really.
tried them in the RS and they were as good as new.

[DCM]

also, no fan or heatsinks, small footprint, small capacitor, easy trackside adjustment....

[Alfonzo]

Yes, I'm loving the lack of fans, heatsinks and all. So I know I could go do this research myself but seeing as this thread is alive and well - Which is the 'better' model? the Pro or the RS?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Randy,

R1 Pro (uncensored) with Orion 7.5BL on LiPo's

problem is from standing start the motor won't spin up/lazy unless I'm real easy on the throttle :confused: When she's up and running all is OK.

Motor has standard timing and is geared 24/81.

Any suggestions?

[DCM]

reduce your neutral width to between 12 and 15 on the hotwire, ramp your brakes to 100% and reduce on the transmitter, dial in about 5-10 of drag brake, this helps the ESC know where the rotor is at all times.

Have you also checked to see if there is a newer firmware with your hotwire?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

reduce your neutral width to between 12 and 15 on the hotwire, ramp your brakes to 100% and reduce on the transmitter, dial in about 5-10 of drag brake, this helps the ESC know where the rotor is at all times.

Have you also checked to see if there is a newer firmware with your hotwire?

Got 180 installed.
HW says no new updates.

I'll try the above

[DCM]

have you tried downloading the software off the website, let me just check what mine shows.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

have you tried downloading the software off the website, let me just check what mine shows.

uninstalled and reinstalled using website zip file

[Lowie]

yup .. a real benefit of the Hotwire (currently unrivalled by any other competitor) ...


erm ... and what about CastleCreations Castle Link?
AFAIK, this does exactly the same:
setting up the ESC through pc or laptop, uploading new functions when available.

anyway, back on Tekin-topic

[Chequered Flag Racing]

RS Pro

got this in 4wd with 5.5bl on 17/87 and NiMH

what settings would you suggest for indoors?

[DCM]

Sensored only
max 30' timing, that includes any advance on the motor and hotwire, 15' is optimal
Limiter 90
TP3
Neatral width, 16
Brake full

[Randy p]

OK, the "soft start" you're reffering to is related to the 180 software. 183 has a much harder launch. The site doesn't have it so shoot me an email and I'll hook you up with it.

For the 5.5 I'd start out something like this:

NW 10
BS 85
TP 3
Timing at 80
Dual Mode
Motor timing around 20(even though it's only there for the start)

The other settings are personal pref.

[Lowie]

've been doing some homework :) : reading on the Tekin-site.

... Because of the differences in magnets a 3 turn sensorless motor will not compare closely with a 3.5 turn sensored. For example, the Tekin Redline 362 sensorless is a 3 turn that rates at 6200 kV, while the Tekin Redline 3.5 sensored is a 3.5 turn that rates at 8000kV...
a higher kV means more rpms, so a Tekin sensored 3.5 is much more powerfull then the sensorless 3?
Do I understand this correctly?

[Lowie]

also another question:
On this info-page (http://www.teamtekin.com/blmotors.html#redlines) I could see data about the kV-performance of the Sensorless motors ... but not these same kV-data about the sensored motors.
Why is that?
Shouldn't it be much easier to compare the perfomance when these data from all motors are available?

[DCM]

it isn't as simple as what turn it is, there is the material of the magnets, the diamter of the rotor and the airgap, these all go along at define the RPM of the motor, but might not actualy show the 'power' of the motor, it is never as simple as that.

The sensorless motors can be geared pretty high, whereas the sensored motors need a much smaller pinion to achieve the same 'performance'. If that makes sense.

[Lowie]

ok, but then, if a sensored BL motor can be run sensored AND sensorless, when driving with the RS Pro-ESC, having the advantages of both in the Dual mode ... why should one choose a sensorless motor where you can not have these advantages?

[DCM]

the sensored and sensorless motors from Tekin are, two different motors, and have totally different characteristics, so that makes them uncomparable, if that makes sense.

On the RS, if you are running a sensored motor, with the harness plugged in, you can run in dual mode, senored and sensorless. If you are running a sensorless motor, you can only run in sensorless mode.

[glypo]

it isn't as simple as what turn it is, there is the material of the magnets, the diamter of the rotor and the airgap, these all go along at define the RPM of the motor, but might not actualy show the 'power' of the motor, it is never as simple as that.

The sensorless motors can be geared pretty high, whereas the sensored motors need a much smaller pinion to achieve the same 'performance'. If that makes sense.

Wow a sensible post about practical application of brushless motors. Nicely written response :thumbsup:

As for sensorless off-road I agree with what's said above. The 448 is perfect for indoors.

[Lowie]

the sensored and sensorless motors from Tekin are, two different motors, and have totally different characteristics, so that makes them uncomparable, if that makes sense.
... ok then but you are not making it any easier for me if I want to choose between a sensored and a sensorless combo

On the RS, if you are running a sensored motor, with the harness plugged in, you can run in dual mode, senored and sensorless. If you are running a sensorless motor, you can only run in sensorless mode.must be me, but this seems to have a very high DUH-factor to it :)


Maybe it must be my lack of english-understanding but I still haven't understood when I should choose a sensored and when a sensorless solution.
I'll study some more on the net tomorrow.

[DCM]

it really isn't a simple answer, as what you need is down to how you like your power.

If you like it soft at the bottom end, senorless, if you like it full of punch, get sensored.

As for ESC, if you are not sure, get the RS Pro, as then you can use ALL the motors.

[caneye]

erm ... and what about CastleCreations Castle Link?
AFAIK, this does exactly the same:
setting up the ESC through pc or laptop, uploading new functions when available.

anyway, back on Tekin-topic

i stand corrected :)

[Lowie]

...
If you like it soft at the bottom end, senorless, if you like it full of punch, get sensored.

As for ESC, if you are not sure, get the RS Pro, as then you can use ALL the motors.

Well, the RS Pro, I allready have so that's sorted.
about the motor-choice: as I still have a high noob-degree, I would need "soft at bottom end" I guess, so I'll choose ...
sensored anyway and tune up the softness of the throtle with the setup of my transmitter :)
This way I can still choose :)

thx for the explanation!

[DCM]

6.5 is a nice all round motor in 4wd, use it indoors and out... 5.5 is a lot more fun though

[Randy p]

I agree with DCM on the 6.5

The sensorless motors we have are not comparable wind to wind due to the fact that our sensorless motors are Delta wound where as the sensored motor are Wye wound.

Differences being so large where as a 448 is a 4 T 4800kv motor but a 4T or 4.5t sensored motor's kv is much higher say almost double. The gearing won't be very close and the power that's made is different. I prefer running all my mods in dual mode. The motor is more efficient this way as is the esc.

In offroad especially dual mode seems to be the ticket as spool up is far more controllable(for me).

One of the amazing things about our esc's is that you can strech a single motor into a few different personalities to make it fit your need and driving style. Heck, maybe we shouldn't make it so nice, you'd have to buy more motors! LOL:)

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Sensored only
max 30' timing, that includes any advance on the motor and hotwire, 15' is optimal
Limiter 90
TP3
Neatral width, 16
Brake full


For the 5.5 I'd start out something like this:

NW 10
BS 85
TP 3
Timing at 80
Dual Mode
Motor timing around 20(even though it's only there for the start)

The other settings are personal pref.


Ran last night to check out the above settings.

After 5 min heat the ESC was @ 167f (75c), motor was @ 122c (50c)

Those temps OK or do I need to adjust something?

5.5bl motor geared on 18/84 using 4600 NiMH

[DCM]

how many lights were on the ESC? Thermal indicator. And did the motor feel too hot to touch?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

how many lights were on the ESC? Thermal indicator. And did the motor feel too hot to touch?

Don't know :blush:

used a temp gun

motor was OK to touch on a scale 1-10 I'd say 4

solder posts on esc were an OUCH, that's what made me check the temps

can I back check last temp of esc if I switch it on today?

[DCM]

unfortunately, no, but when you finish a run, if you pop the shell off, the led will flash from showing the neatral position to flashing a certain amount of LED's, as long as it is below 5, things are good. On the RS, short track with a 6.5, I will generaly show up 3-4 led's on the thermal temp.

[Cooper]

If you have the RS you can run both sensored and sensorless motors. The fact that was also stated corretly was that with the RS you have the ability to choose between Sensored only drive OR Dual mode which is a sensored start and sensorless operation afterwards.


is this dual mode something from the newest software versions?

I have an R1 pro and a RS and I haven't found that dual mode in my RS

[DCM]

not sure if it is called 'hybrid' mode on the hotwire?

[Cooper]

will check tonight :) (and update my ESC's, ain't sure if they have the lastest version or not)

thanks !

[DCM]

I would check, but got nothing to hand right at the mo, sorry.

[Alfonzo]

Seems to me all these 'ratings' for BL motors are confusing. Is there are standard that could be adopted to allow direct comparisons across all types, Howabout using Kv figures, would that work?

[KevLee]

will check tonight :) (and update my ESC's, ain't sure if they have the lastest version or not)

thanks !

The RS defaults to dual mode (hybrid mode) unless you tick the box on the hotwire for sensored only. Without that box ticked it will always start the motor sensored then switch to sensorless once its moving.

Since the RS was released it has always had dual mode so you've probably been running it like that without realising

If the sensor comes unplugged, or damaged it will automatically run in sensorless just like the R1 (whether or not that sensored only box is ticked)

I run mine in dual mode all the time, i find its much smoother and runs cooler that way.

[Randy p]

Kevins right, the Rs is in dual mode as a default. Look towards the right side of the Hotwire interface in the middle and you should see a box that says "Sensored only." If you want to run sensored only you must click this box.

If you had 122F as a motor temp that's more than fine. I'd say you could gear up if you wanted to.

DCM is spot on though as far as esc temps are. The solders posts are our "heatsinks" so don't touch! LOL

Check the internal temps just like DCM said, that's all I care about. In wheeler on high bite you should see around 5 or 6 led's in an RS Pro running anything hotter than a 6.5.

If you are getting to 7 led's you are either overgeared or need to get some air into your shell. If this can't be done well use a 2nd cap.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Power Caps for the RS #TT3520

who stocks them in the UK?

non on muchmore uk site

[samd]

Speed passion do one with 4 caps on a circuit board from demon products. I have one and RS Pro runs 2 lights cooler and the faster mod motors seem to be a bit smoother, about £18. Hope this helps.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Speed passion do one with 4 caps on a circuit board from demon products. I have one and RS Pro runs 2 lights cooler and the faster mod motors seem to be a bit smoother, about £18. Hope this helps.

which one?

SP98801 or SPAMSSC3M

[Northy]

If you can find some specs for what you need I can source some.

G

[DCM]

P871F
330
16V

Thats what it says on top dude!

[samd]

SP98801-C01

[Northy]

P871F
330
16V

Thats what it says on top dude!

I think i've found some ;)

G

[Cassp0nk]

yup .. a real benefit of the Hotwire (currently unrivalled by any other competitor) is the ability to download new RS software when Tekin releases it (1st by downloading on to your notebook) onto your RS. this means new functions, customisations, etc .. it's like a firmware update, but doing it yourself.


Well thats not true as the losi xcelorin systems have pc connectivity for firmware update, customisable throttle/brake curves (tekin don't have this yet right?) in fact eveything you are mentioning and more, but they include the cale with the package, a motor and it costs less than an RS Pro for the whole lot.

The only bummer is that the firmware seems rubbish because mine won't reverse which is why I'm looking at whether I want a tekin. Not impressed that tekin are marketing the ability to flash the firmware as an upsell feature to buy an expensive cable though.

Most importantly though, does reverse work properly on a tekin? :D

[DCM]

I think i've found some ;)

G

I will have your babies dude.... price?

[DCM]

Well thats not true as the losi xcelorin systems have pc connectivity for firmware update, customisable throttle/brake curves (tekin don't have this yet right?) in fact eveything you are mentioning and more, but they include the cale with the package, a motor and it costs less than an RS Pro for the whole lot.

The only bummer is that the firmware seems rubbish because mine won't reverse which is why I'm looking at whether I want a tekin. Not impressed that tekin are marketing the ability to flash the firmware as an upsell feature to buy an expensive cable though.

Most importantly though, does reverse work properly on a tekin? :D

This has already been pointed out dude, but when the R1 was released, the only one that could, was the Castle Creations. As it is, the Novak, LRP/Nosram can't.

And, yes, it does reverse....

[Cassp0nk]

This has already been pointed out dude, but when the R1 was released, the only one that could, was the Castle Creations. As it is, the Novak, LRP/Nosram can't.

And, yes, it does reverse....

Do you know if anyone carries these as stock items? Fusion hobbies says 2 weeks lead time for the RS Pro.

[DCM]

Demon show that they have an RS but not a Pro, otherwise, you may want to get in touch with either Team Extreme or Much More UK, if all else fails, then look at America, stormer hobbies, tower hobbies etc

[Cassp0nk]

Demon show that they have an RS but not a Pro, otherwise, you may want to get in touch with either Team Extreme or Much More UK, if all else fails, then look at America, stormer hobbies, tower hobbies etc

Thanks :)

[samd]

Does anyone know if using the current limiter on RS/R1 makes the esc temps higher or lower?

[DCM]

Does anyone know if using the current limiter on RS/R1 makes the esc temps higher or lower?

it should make them lower

[Chequered Flag Racing]

reduce your neutral width to between 12 and 15 on the hotwire, ramp your brakes to 100% and reduce on the transmitter, dial in about 5-10 of drag brake, this helps the ESC know where the rotor is at all times.



100% better with the above done.

OK, the "soft start" you're reffering to is related to the 180 software. 183 has a much harder launch. The site doesn't have it so shoot me an email and I'll hook you up with it.



thanks Randy, got it

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Ran last night to check out the above settings.

After 5 min heat the ESC was @ 167f (75c), motor was @ 122c (50c)

Those temps OK or do I need to adjust something?

5.5bl motor geared on 18/84 using 4600 NiMH

how many lights were on the ESC? Thermal indicator. And did the motor feel too hot to touch?

4 came on @ the Petit RC event @ the weekend. No time for temp gun this time. ESC solder posts still hot and motor running warmer as it got a good work out on the higher grip carpet

[Chequered Flag Racing]

OK, the "soft start" you're reffering to is related to the 180 software. 183 has a much harder launch. The site doesn't have it so shoot me an email and I'll hook you up with it.

For the 5.5 I'd start out something like this:

NW 10
BS 85
TP 3
Timing at 80
Dual Mode
Motor timing around 20(even though it's only there for the start)

The other settings are personal pref.

Ran these settings @ Petit RC. Update TP to 4 via Nathans HW.

Plugged into my hot wire @ home and I'm getting the following with an error message when HW fires up

TA @ 68
CL @ LIM

CL now says off as I tried to see if adjustment would save to esc.

[Randy p]

Did you update your esc to 189 yet? Did you open both windows on your own?

[glypo]

Hotwire on my laptop is giving me error messages which is a pain.

My R1 Pro with 4.5 turn was running quite cool at the Petit race.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Did you update your esc to 189 yet? Did you open both windows on your own?


Just reinstalled software and I now have 189 and no errors :)

After install ran it from right click & admin 1st time. Opened it second time from short cut and no errors :D

[Chequered Flag Racing]

For the 5.5 I'd start out something like this:

NW 10
BS 85
TP 3
Timing at 80
Dual Mode
Motor timing around 20(even though it's only there for the start)


I'm :confused: Randy. Please explain.

Which 1 or both of the above in red is set on the HW? I can only see TA on the HW. Does it want setting to 80 or 20?

[DCM]

in dual mode, run timming set to 80 on the hotwire

in sensored only mode, run timing at 20 on the hotwire, with the motor timing (physical) at 0'

[Chequered Flag Racing]

in dual mode, run timming set to 80 on the hotwire

in sensored only mode, run timing at 20 on the hotwire, with the motor timing (physical) at 0'

http://www.oople.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

[DCM]

glad I could help there!!

[KeithA]

Power Caps for the RS #TT3520

who stocks them in the UK?

non on muchmore uk site

Apologies, they never went up on the site but we have always stocked them along with all the other Tekin products and they are in the trade price list that goes out to UK model shops -
#TT3520 Power Cap for Fx or R1/S series
#TT3518 Power Cap for B1 or B1R series

Thank you.

[Fabs]

Well thats not true as the losi xcelorin systems have pc connectivity for firmware update, customisable throttle/brake curves (tekin don't have this yet right?) in fact eveything you are mentioning and more, but they include the cale with the package, a motor and it costs less than an RS Pro for the whole lot.

The only bummer is that the firmware seems rubbish because mine won't reverse which is why I'm looking at whether I want a tekin. Not impressed that tekin are marketing the ability to flash the firmware as an upsell feature to buy an expensive cable though.

Most importantly though, does reverse work properly on a tekin? :D

I'm not here to bash the Losi system, but you cannot compare it to the Tekin. The losi is NOT a competition system and is certainly not as reliable as the Tekin. Funny thing, the Losi CAN reverse as my mate found out one day, putting his car down for the start of a run and his car went backwards... It went forwards the round before... There are also a lot of issues with the lead free solder, issues that have been solved by Tekin and are one of the reasons the RS is a quality product.

[Fabs]

Ran these settings @ Petit RC. Update TP to 4 via Nathans HW.

Plugged into my hot wire @ home and I'm getting the following with an error message when HW fires up

TA @ 68
CL @ LIM

CL now says off as I tried to see if adjustment would save to esc.

hey you should have asked me I was there. I've been running 189 in fully sensored and 5° of boost, redline 5.5 on box timing and it was ballistic, 18.4s lap in 4WD final...

[Fabs]

in dual mode, run timming set to 80 on the hotwire

in sensored only mode, run timing at 20 on the hotwire, with the motor timing (physical) at 0'

I believe randy meant to run in dual mode set at 80 and hae the motor's physical timing at 20°.

[Randy p]

Check: DCM is right.

I run my 5.5 in a Bj4we using 80 on the TA, dual mode. I set the motor timing at 20 on the endbell as I feel it works better there. It has NO timing effect at all once the esc is in dual mode which is in the first few inches of travel.

[Lowie]

I have now a Tekin RS Pro but also bought a R1.
Will the R1 be able to handle a Castle Creations 5700kV-motor (which also is sensorless) that I still have lying around?

I should think not, as the R1 has a motor limit of 5T brushless
and the Tekin 5T sensorless motors are rated only at 3700 kV ... but then I have some doubts as you Tekin-guys already told earlier that motors can not always be compared by their kV-rate.

[DCM]

it depends on it's turn rating (which CC don't provide), you could try, and just keep checking the temps. What were you thinking of running it in dude?

[Lowie]

in a Pred X11

[DCM]

I think you could possibly be pushing it's limits. No harm in trying a couple of laps at a time, and seeing what the temps are like?

[Lowie]

well, I guess I could, ... but I am considering workable solutions ... not something where I have to be causious all the time.
SO I learn from this that this combination "could possibly work" ... but there is a big chance the Tekin R1 will not be able to handle the basic, most used CC motor.

[DCM]

well, it all depends on the turn rating of the motor, as Kv is a mix of how many turns and rotor diameter. The Tekins have lower KV rating as the rotor diameter is significantly bigger on the Redline Sensorless to the Redline.

[Lowie]

well, I guess it's maybe wurth a try. If I ever find the time to test it out, I'll post my findings here.

[DCM]

thanks, thats a great help indeed. Just make sure you keep an eye on the temp ok, and if you can, fit a small fan in there to blow air over the solder posts.

Otherwise, it will make a great 2wd ESC.

[Lowie]

Otherwise, it will make a great 2wd ESC.

yup, I'm now thinking about using it as ESC in my Tamiya M03-Swift.
I actually made a mistake and ordered the R1 where I needed a backup-ESC for my RS Pro and wanted to order the RS.
I must have done something wrong (wrong click + didn't notice my error) because I got the R1.

[Fabs]

Well worst that can happen is that the speedo will thermal.

[Lowie]

Well worst that can happen is that the speedo will thermal.true

so won't harm to try. Good tip

[Randy p]

We shoud be able to handle that load as long as you gear it correctly. I would make sure that it can get some air flow. Run two caps will also help esc temps.

I've run our 448 motor which is a 4T on the R1 in a wheeler. If anything it should thermal on you.

I generally say as soon as you go 4wd and low turn mods like say a 6.5 it's time for a Pro.

[Lowie]

just bought a Hotwire but haven't used it yet.
Is there a location, page on the teamTekin-site where one can download typical setups? Or notes on how to set up under different track-circumstances?

[DCM]

not as yet, but if you need some pointers, just ask.

[Lowie]

ok, great thx :)
Is it ok to ask here or do I better relocate to the Tekin-forum?

[DCM]

well, there are a few Euopean based drivers on here, or you can ask directly at Tekin too.

[Lowie]

well, I will be participating next weekend on the Belgian E.I.R. (Euro Indoor Race), Indoor 1/8 and 1/10 electro off-road.
It will be a track made with all new astroturf (so i guess tons of grip) and huge jumps, whoops, table ...
My car is a Pred and is equipped with an RS Pro and LRP 6.5 BL-motor.
But I'm rather inexperienced so I would like to start with a non-critical car, smooth on the throttle, ... and maybe later put a bit more juice into it if I can handle it better.
I plan to drive on safe at first, as "to win you have to finish first" ... but I will focus more on the finishing part :D

Should i play with lower settings on the Current Limit, Timing Advance, Throttle Profile?

Also, I understand Drag Brake and Push Control are opposite settings. The first applying brake when the throttle is in neutral while the second applies extra throttle. Why and when would you use those ... and by curiosity ... is itpossible to use both at the same time and why would you?

thx in adavance :)

[DCM]

right, a good starting point for general racing on the RS Pro with a 6.5

NW - 10
TP - 3
Lm - 90
Timing - 80
DB - 10
PC - 0

You would use a little drag brake on a sintered mod motor, a lot more on a bonded rotor mod motor. You would use push control on the stock ans super stock motors, to keep the speed up during the corner.

Ask Kev Lee at what he gears his 6.5 in his Pred.

[Cooper]

same question but for a 7.5 in an X6 please ;-)

Thanks !

[DCM]

only thing I would change, would be the limitir and timing, I might drop them both down 5% and go from there. If traction is plenty, go up a little.

[KevLee]

right, a good starting point for general racing on the RS Pro with a 6.5

NW - 10
TP - 3
Lm - 90
Timing - 80
DB - 10
PC - 0

You would use a little drag brake on a sintered mod motor, a lot more on a bonded rotor mod motor. You would use push control on the stock ans super stock motors, to keep the speed up during the corner.

Ask Kev Lee at what he gears his 6.5 in his Pred.

I run 22/72 on a 6.5 in the Pred. My speedo setting are very similar to DCMs just i use TP4 and have LM Off.

[Stu]

Very impressed with the reliability of the Tekin ESC on the EBOR24 car.

Over the 24hr period it was accidentally shorted out across the motor wires on two occasions (smoke & sparks), it just carried on going without problems.

The electrics, like the car, did not miss a beat for the full duration.

[Lowie]

Very impressed with the reliability of the Tekin ESC on the EBOR24 car.

Over the 24hr period it was accidentally shorted out across the motor wires on two occasions (smoke & sparks), it just carried on going without problems.

The electrics, like the car, did not miss a beat for the full duration.
What car and Motor were you running, Stu?

[Randy p]

Ask 'em here , ask 'em there, ask 'em anywhere!

Seriously, posting them here is just fine. Along with DCM I'm confident we can work out any of your problems or questions.

So just ask!:D

[niggs98]

What car and Motor were you running, Stu?

was a pred x11-08 with a tekin rs pro and a tekin redline 10.5. geared on 23/72, with the long run times we were aiming at we had a tp of 1 and a timing of 40. ran the full 24 hours without an issue other than when we shorted it across the prop twice and even then it didnt miss a beat;)

as for setups i will help you with yours at belgium m8 and we will tune it through the meeting to what you want. i have a hot wire and all the software you will need :thumbsup:

[Lowie]

ok, we'll get into the hotwire-setting-upping with a Duvel in our hand then.

[geerno]

I have the RS Pro, just running it without the hotwire.

Is the hotwire software PC only. I have a Mac so most software is not written for Mac. I want to use this hotwire as I will be stepping up my motor soon.

Would look at the Tekin website, but it wont load up right now.

Cheers

[markwilliamson2001]

Get a copy of Parallels mate, for Mac, well worth it.

You can then use any PC-only software.

HTH
Mark

[DCM]

it is written for Windows based systems, as it uses the .Net framework, I believe.

[Lowie]

I'm no expert but I know that the Linux-community is making (or has made) a .net-alike envirement.
And as the latest Mac-OS has been based on UNIX, maybe there could be made a Mac-version of the Tekin-soft .. or made able to run the Tekin-soft on a Mac-os

[geerno]

Get a copy of Parallels mate, for Mac, well worth it.

You can then use any PC-only software.

HTH
Mark

Yeah, someone mentioned parallels for another issue with using non mac software that came with my camcorder. It looks like the only option until apple bring out the iEsc for RC Cars.

Do I need to get a Windows OS as well as the Parallels?

Cheers

[samd]

I hope someone that knows can help me with this.
I want to run a 5.5 in dual mode with a timing advance of 0deg.
On the RS pro I have read that in sensored mode the timing is endell timing + 'secret' 15deg so to keep timing the same when the RS Pro switches to sensorless mode does timing on the hotwire need to be set at 50?
So motor runs 0deg+15deg in sensored then 15deg(50 on hotwire) in sensorless to keep it the same?
Hope this make sense and someone knows! TA

[DCM]

what are you trying to acheive Sam?

[Fabs]

You don't wanna run anything less than 70% anyway mate in dual mode. Mine's set to 100, even though I run in sensored only.

[KevLee]

I hope someone that knows can help me with this.
I want to run a 5.5 in dual mode with a timing advance of 0deg.
On the RS pro I have read that in sensored mode the timing is endell timing + 'secret' 15deg so to keep timing the same when the RS Pro switches to sensorless mode does timing on the hotwire need to be set at 50?
So motor runs 0deg+15deg in sensored then 15deg(50 on hotwire) in sensorless to keep it the same?
Hope this make sense and someone knows! TA

I think i know what you are asking but i'm not sure why you want to do that? Its not a bad thing to have different timing at a different stage in the motors rev range. If you want grunt off the line low timing will help that, but if you want it to rev higher at the end of the straight the high timing on the sensorless mode will help.

I think Randy may be able to confirm your figures above but i think they are right.

As Fabs said you want you dual mode timing up higher than 50%, i run 80% (standard timing on motor) and never change it now.

[samd]

What i want to do is just keep the timing the same but run in dual mode. I am just trying to understand the relationship between the timing setting of the two modes.
Im running a LRP 5.5 X12 with 0deg recommended timing and im happy with the speed and motor temps but want to run dual instead of sensored only. Thanks for the quick response guys!

[DCM]

I have been doing a lot of playing of late with running dual and sensored only, and found the easiest way is to run sensored only, on a 6.5 in 4wd. I leave the motor set to zero timing, this gives the motor grunt out of the corner and at starts, but I then raise or lower the timing boost, depending on the track and straight length. The more boost, the more revs, but keeping the motor timed at a physical zero, gives you plenty out of the corner with low down torque. I have also found ESC temps to be lower too.

[samd]

interesting! So does the timing boost kick in after the motor starts to spin, instead of all the time like physical timing then?

[DCM]

yes, the timming comes in on the upper part of the throttle, so you can zero time the motor and have bags of torque, then the RS will ramp up some timing advance using the boost figure. So if you set boost to be 15', at neutral, you have 0'motor timing, 0' esc timing, at full throttle, your motor is still at 0' but the esc turns up the timming to 15' timing, so you get the best of both really.

[samd]

Nice, thanks!

[samd]

Another question, does the timing boost just turn on a a certain amount of throttle or does it come on progressively from a certain point eg 25% throttle no boost, 50% 5deg 75% 10deg, 100% full boost???

[DCM]

as I have not noticed power coming on like a switch, I assume it is a progressive thing, but don't quote me on that. All I know is, it works big time

[Randy p]

The guys are right. You really shouldn't be in sensored only mode with the 5.5. However if I'm understanding you correctly you'd like to have your timing setup not change between the two modes:

In sensored only mode 0 motor timing + 15(early read) + 0 boost timing= 15 total

In Dual mode you will run ? motor timing(not used) + (no early read) + 50 Timing Advance = 15 degrees.

In dual mode the motors early read is not used since we're not relying on the sensors for timing. The Timing advance bar is a percentage of 30 degrees total. So when set at 50 that is equal to 15 degrees timing.

For the record that is an excellent starting point for a 5.5 motor and the RS Pro!

[Randy p]

Some RX8 video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Dlbl5rtaXs

[glypo]

Looks awesome.

I really can't wait for mine. When are the available? I know the mould kind of set things back.

Hopefully in time for the Neo in Easter? I do hope so :)

[samd]

Thanks Randy, that explains it. Is the 15deg early read a tekin thing or will all sensored esc do the same, so if someone is running motor with 0deg timing on a LRP for example is the timing also 0+15early read? I ask this for comparison with other peoples setups Thanks SAM

[carnage]

I Just thought I'd take this opportunity to congratulate Team Tekin for their fantastic customer service, I whole heartedly recommend Team Tekin purely on the support they gave me when I had a problem with my 17.5 motor and the fact that their products are top performers, that is the icing on the cake,
Throughout my dealings with Team Tekin I felt Trusted, Valued and respected.
I feel that good customer service is something we don't always receive but when we do, it should be applauded.
Once again thank you Ty and everyone at Team Tekin.
Customer for life
Steve

[Randy p]

In general all motos have "early read." They're all going to be a bit different. Either way in general you shouldn't be over 35 degrees or so with a spec type motor between motor timing and boost together. Anything past that tends to only creat excssive motor heat with no performance gain.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

2wd off-road start settings for the RS Pro in the UK please

will be on LiPo and 7.5bl @ Worksop this weekend

[DCM]

NW-10
BS-100
TP-3 or 2
DB - depends on the motor used
LM-85-90

If you like a revvy motor
Sensored only
motor at 0'
boost set from 5-15'
gear down a tooth or two, as the more boost, the better the revs

If you like it torque
Dual Mode
Timing at 80%
gear normally

[Chequered Flag Racing]

If you like it torque
Dual Mode
Timing at 80%
gear normally

I'll start there, thanks

[DCM]

yeah, it is a good setting, but do try the other way too, as it makes the motor feel totally different.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

2wd off-road start settings for the RS Pro in the UK please

will be on LiPo and 7.5bl @ Worksop this weekend

DCM

Got a 10.5 Tekin I would like to try @ the weekend also.

Which settings for that plus what ratio?

[DCM]

what class?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

what class?

2wd off-road

[DCM]

right, use the same basic setting as above.

Run it in SENSORED mode

Depending on the track, run from about 10' timing boost upwards (more if it is a big straight), leave the motor timing at 0' as this will leave the low down torque there. But you need the boost to bring the RPM up at the top end.

[Randy p]

Here's my personal 10.5 2wd buggy setup:

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Here's my personal 10.5 2wd buggy setup:

cheers Randy

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Tekin, I have a problem

esc ran fine for qualifying but not the final.

Leading the C final and it kept cutting out. Not just the esc but a total shut down :confused:

Looked over all connections etc and nothing is showing up.

[DCM]

first of all, check the capacitor connections. Did it shut down, and come back to life again?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

first of all, check the capacitor connections. Did it shut down, and come back to life again?

cap looks fine and yes

had it out in the garden and it hasn't cut out

onboard temp was no higher than 4 led's

[DCM]

the only time I have had that, is a cap that went bad, changed the cap, never had an issue since.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

the only time I have had that, is a cap that went bad, changed the cap, never had an issue since.

got some new ones on the way,

[Chequered Flag Racing]

the only time I have had that, is a cap that went bad, changed the cap, never had an issue since.

got some new ones on the way, in the meantime I'll swap them over in between speedo's

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Got a 10.5 Tekin I would like to try @ the weekend also.

Which settings for that plus what ratio?

missed this the above bit folks re ratio for 10.5 Tekin

it'll in running on a B4 gearbox, if you quote for other other gearbox quote the internal so I can convert it please

[DCM]

not run one in a 2WD as yet, but I just set Millzy's B4 up with a 7.5 on low boost and stock motor timing, with a 25tooth, so if you run with 20-30' boost, I would say, a 25 is a good place to start.

Post how you find it, and gearing, I know on a 19t I was up to a 28, but the 10.5 just revs a lot more.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

not run one in a 2WD as yet, but I just set Millzy's B4 up with a 7.5 on low boost and stock motor timing, with a 25tooth, so if you run with 20-30' boost, I would say, a 25 is a good place to start.

Post how you find it, and gearing, I know on a 19t I was up to a 28, but the 10.5 just revs a lot more.

ran Nosram 7.5, zero timing @ Worksop on 7.8 with 35c LiPo (RW 78s & 26p)

db off
rs 75
bs 100
nw 10
mt 3
tp 3
vco 2
pc off
tb 5
cl 80

[DCM]

don't forget, the 10.5 will have a little less torque, so you must use the boost to get the rev's. But your settings are pretty good, just ramp up the boost to 20 to try with first.

[millzy]

not run one in a 2WD as yet, but I just set Millzy's B4 up with a 7.5 on low boost and stock motor timing, with a 25tooth, so if you run with 20-30' boost, I would say, a 25 is a good place to start.

Post how you find it, and gearing, I know on a 19t I was up to a 28, but the 10.5 just revs a lot more.

7.5 is set up preffect

[Chequered Flag Racing]

don't forget, the 10.5 will have a little less torque, so you must use the boost to get the rev's. But your settings are pretty good, just ramp up the boost to 20 to try with first.

done it, going in garden to give it a whirl on a 24/78

[DCM]

if you are lacking a little in top end, turn the boost up, don't touch the motor timing. Also, just keep an eye on esc temps and motor temps. If it gets too hot with the boost turned up more, gear up one.

[Randy p]

If the esc is "cutting" out chances are that it's not us(Tekin) but your spektrum or other 2.4ghz receiver dropping out. Run a small cap on the receiver. Spektrum makes one for just this purpose. The receiver is amping out and shutting down and coming back to life.

We will only do what we're told. When the receiver does this it gives us no signal and by the time you get to the car to check it's back on and shows nothing wrong.

For 10.5 offroad try 81/22-24 with a B4 with 20 degrees of motor timing and 10-15 on the boost.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Run a small cap on the receiver. Spektrum makes one for just this purpose. The receiver is amping out and shutting down and coming back to life.

We will only do what we're told. When the receiver does this it gives us no signal and by the time you get to the car to check it's back on and shows nothing wrong.

For 10.5 offroad try 81/22-24 with a B4 with 20 degrees of motor timing and 10-15 on the boost.

got the specky cap

if it plays up tonight I'll pop it in

motors set to 20 boost no motor timing
I'm geared 8.1 against your suggestion @ 9.1

[DCM]

I am erring on the sid of caution for the first run, as I have not run 10.5 in a 2wd as yet... for comparison, if you can do roll out, I run 6,09:1 on 58mm diameter wheels in saloon.

[Randy p]

As requested my 4wd mod setup. I use this with a 6.5 or 5.5.

If the bottom end is too much add a bit of punch control so you don't lose your mid and top end!

[Chequered Flag Racing]

If the esc is "cutting" out chances are that it's not us(Tekin) but your spektrum or other 2.4ghz receiver dropping out.

OK

esc ran OK last night

after final noticed all led's lighting up
light on specky was still on and strong
think I'll re bind it


ALL LEDs FLASHING No radio signal can be found. Check receiver connection and verify that ESC is plugged into correct channel. Verify trans-mitter and receiver are functioning properly.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

I am erring on the sid of caution for the first run, as I have not run 10.5 in a 2wd as yet... for comparison, if you can do roll out, I run 6,09:1 on 58mm diameter wheels in saloon.

used settings as suggested

ran it on 27/78 and had plenty of go, motor got just warm and esc showing two led's for temp

[DCM]

hey, thats cool, will have to try it out when I get my 2WD through!!

[Randy p]

after final noticed all led's lighting up
light on specky


Are you running the little silver cap on the esc? If so what exactly is your setup? RS or RS Pro? What motor and gearing, track surface?

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Are you running the little silver cap on the esc? If so what exactly is your setup? RS or RS Pro? What motor and gearing, track surface?

cap yes, have some replacements on there way

RS Pro

Tekin 10.5 on 27/78 or 7.5:1 last night on indoor sports hall = slippy

when it shut down on Sunday it was a Nosram 7.5 on 26/78 or 7.8:1 rubberised floor medium grip surface

[Randy p]

What was your setting on the Nosram? If you were running boost with that setup you're way overtimed.

You should not be anywhere close to thermalling with a 7.5 I don't care what the grip. Make sure your cap is in good order.

The 7.5 should be run in dual mode with the timing advance bar set around 70-80.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

What was your setting on the Nosram? If you were running boost with that setup you're way overtimed.

You should not be anywhere close to thermalling with a 7.5 I don't care what the grip. Make sure your cap is in good order.

The 7.5 should be run in dual mode with the timing advance bar set around 70-80.

Nosram = zero on the can

ESC didn't thermal, motor was warm to touch. Only ran approx 2 mins in final on Sunday before car was shutting down. Tuesday night was OK, see post 160, all LED's flashing.

[Randy p]

Tuesday night was OK, see post 160, all LED's flashing.

Sorry, missed that bit. Yeah all flashing is no signal for us. Glad to see you got it sorted, again sorry for not reading thoroughly.:thumbsup:

Cheers,

[RickRick]

Randy one of the previous posts says you use the solder posts as heatsinks, i've covered over my solder posts with heatshrink to protect against shorts. Is this a bad move?

[DCM]

Randy one of the previous posts says you use the solder posts as heatsinks, i've covered over my solder posts with heatshrink to protect against shorts. Is this a bad move?

what motor are you running?

What I do on mine, is I heatshrink Phase B, but not all the way down, only enough to cover the soldered connection, and the positive junction, and leave the rest open.

[RickRick]

i''m running a bonded 6.5 at the moment, i've got a 4.5 which might get used with it at some point it's the RS Pro btw

[DCM]

the bonded, should be fine, keep an eye on the thermal indicator, when you go to the 4.5, you will need to uncover the posts but leave the solder joint covered.

[Lowie]

I run a Tekin RS Pro in my offroad 4wd Predator.
By an accident one of the wires/leads of the capacitator broke off.
I re-soldered it this but this isn't very strong.

I do however have some capacitators left on an older ESC which I do not use any more.
it mentiones these details:
10V
+105°C
5600µF
M CE FM

could i use this instead?

[DCM]

they would work, but you might feel a small performance drop, but not as much as if you weren't running one at all.

[Lowie]

in the mean while, I found in the RS manual:
capacitator: TT3520
on the Tekin-website I learn that this capacitator has these data:
TT3520 Power Cap 16V 330uF Fx R1 series


so IMHO the older Capacitator seems to have a higher Capacity then the Tekin one.
5600µF vs 330µF
Or am I wrong? (I'm no expert in electronics)

[Randy p]

You're right that the capacity is lower. However that is a special electrolytic cap as it has superior refresh rate. You can use another cap but make sure it's at least 16v or so and 330uf or better. The old G11 caps were ace also.

[Urzrkymn]

Hi, I'm having difficulties calibrating my Tekin RS with my Futaba 3GR radio. I start the calibration process and the ESC finds neutral, I press full throttle - nothing, full reverse - nothing. If I reverse the throttle on my radio and try to calibrate the ESC finds neutral and full throttle but no reverse. Any ideas?

[DCM]

check your end points?

[caneye]

IIRC, you may need to set the neutral bandwidth to 0 (via the Hotwire).

Check your subtrim too.

i had the exact identical issue with my 3pjs. i couldn't figure out what the issue was. i had 3 different car profiles on the TX, 1 worked with the tekin while the other 2 didn't. i just couldn't calibrate the tekin when using those profiles. i ended up copying the setup profile that worked, as baseline. :confused:

[Urzrkymn]

End points are at 100%, trims are 0. I don't have the hotwire yet unfortunately.

[DCM]

try increasing the EPA and on the ESC, reduce the NW to LED's 1&2

[Urzrkymn]

Right, I've tried the ESC with the NW set to LEDs 1&2, tried the throttle EPA to 120%, still nothing.

EDIT: Got it to calibrate, reversed the throttle on the transmitter and had to pull on the brake quite hard, regardless of the brake EPA. Weird.

Thanks for your help guys.

[millzy]

Hi, I'm having difficulties calibrating my Tekin RS with my Futaba 3GR radio. I start the calibration process and the ESC finds neutral, I press full throttle - nothing, full reverse - nothing. If I reverse the throttle on my radio and try to calibrate the ESC finds neutral and full throttle but no reverse. Any ideas?

Hi Mate

I also Have a 3GR and found that it it took some time to get the Tekin Rs to sink with the 3GR and that the brakes felt odd- its the handset not the Teink as my Sanwa was fine first time.

Have all the hand set Throttle/ brake setting on 0 appart from the End point- set this to MaX FOR Both throttle and reverse- make sure your ABS is on Factory settings

Put the brake settings on 95% = 100% on the speedo
you will need some drag brake i found as well with the 3GR ive got about 20% on thre Rs

once you have sinked the Rs with the handset- turn down the brake Endpoint on the hadset untill the brakes feel right for
you

once you have done this you might want to look at the trottle trim so that there is no low end delay and that the throttle end point isnt pulling full throttle in to soon

[Randy p]

Placing your NW setting to 0 will make it difficult for most radios to find nuetral and allow the system to arm. It can also cause the drag brake to not function. I reccomend a setting no lower than 10 or 1 led's 1 and 2 being lit.

The Futba radios must have the throttle channel reversed. Make sure that ANY abs function is turned off completely. You can turn it back on after you've calibrated.

You also do not need the Hotwire to adjust the NW setting, it's on the interface.

[magnus]

This might have been discussed already but there's so many pages to read. I have a sligth cogging problems around neutral with my losi motor. It seams to work perfectly with my lrp though. Will it go away if I upgrade the ESC?

[DCM]

what software you got on your ESC?

[magnus]

I don't know. Where do I find that? I just bought it but I don't know how long the shop's had it.

[DCM]

right, you will need the hotwire to work out what software it has, chances are, it is old and will need updating. Is it the RS or R1?

[Lowie]

I've noticed that there exists a hotwire-setup-sheet lately.
Is this being used and are there setup-sheets published somewhere?

I hardly touch the basic setup of my RSPro ESC (drive 1/10 offorad myself) but am looking for the setup for a R1 when driving in touring Stock-competition (for a friend)

[DCM]

http://www.teamtekin.com/graphics/setupsheets/Tekin-RS-setup-sheet-v1.pdf for the setup sheet

[magnus]

right, you will need the hotwire to work out what software it has, chances are, it is old and will need updating. Is it the RS or R1?

It's a RS.

[Randy p]

Yeah it would be nice to see how it was setup. Use the sensor checker feature to verify the sensors are all checking in...

[Lowie]

http://www.teamtekin.com/graphics/setupsheets/Tekin-RS-setup-sheet-v1.pdf for the setup sheet
lol, I know

I meant: are there filled in setupsheets somewhere? (Not: where is the blanco one ) :)

[DCM]

lol, I know

I meant: are there filled in setupsheets somewhere? (Not: where is the blanco one ) :)

I shall fill mine in later, for 4wd buggy, and upload it.

[feasty33]

Hi,

New issue to me, but may be covered before...

I have an (ancient, but still good i hope) Tekin BC112A charger that i have from my old nicad days.

Having done some research it seems that it is capable of charging Nimh cells without any troubles, IF it has the correct firmware, H27 or something?

As it goes (this will show the age of my charger!), i only have version E25.

Is it possible and cost effective to get it upgraded in the UK?


Dave

[DCM]

I don't think there is anyone who can do the upgrade in the UK, although if you email support{at}teamtekin{dot}com they may be able to discuss it with you.

[Lowie]

well, a offroad 4WD-setup could always come in handy, but I wonder if there are settings that could be espescially benefital for Touring stock-driving?
It's for a friend of mine who was looking for a good ESC for driving in our local Tamiya-cup.
Next year we will be able to drive with Tamiya Brushless motors and he wanted an ESC that would do great. I convinced him of the Tekin quality so he will buy an RS Pro ... but it would be great if I could also provide him a good setup when driving a BL 17.5- or 13.5 motor in a touring car.

[feasty33]

Many thanks DCM.

Just sent them an email, fingers crossed!


Dave

[DCM]

well, a offroad 4WD-setup could always come in handy, but I wonder if there are settings that could be espescially benefital for Touring stock-driving?
It's for a friend of mine who was looking for a good ESC for driving in our local Tamiya-cup.
Next year we will be able to drive with Tamiya Brushless motors and he wanted an ESC that would do great. I convinced him of the Tekin quality so he will buy an RS Pro ... but it would be great if I could also provide him a good setup when driving a BL 17.5- or 13.5 motor in a touring car.

At a glance.... he will need the latest firmware, but here goes, from memory

Neutral Width LED 1&2 lit
Throttle Profile 3 or 4 depending on track
Limiter 90
SENSORED ONLY
Timing on ESC 30'
Timing on motor 0'

Hope that helps dude

[frogger]

I use delayed reverse on my RS for club racing. Does anyone know if there is a way to alter the delay time? The current delay is too long and so it's difficult to get it into reverse when you need to as you often press reverse too soon which means you need to reactivate the procedure and wait again.

[DCM]

no there isn't, sorry.

[Randy p]

DCM the turbo feature is not public yet. It's coming though. So far the only ones complaining are the LRP users...

My 4wd standard setup:

[magnus]

My RS ( not pro) runs good for about 1 min. Then it starts to lose power and then after about 4 min it tempcuts. I run a Losi 6.5 in a xx4 geared with a 19 gear and it doesn't feel overgeared. What to do? Is it too week for 4wd?

[DCM]

it would be a push, I know it is suppose to go down to a 5.5turn, but that is theoretical.

What firmware you running, do you have a fan?

[magnus]

Well I don't know what firmwere it is since I'm waiting for my hotwire. It's right out the box. I didn't run a fan. Could try that. They should say something about the theoretical 5.5 turn. Then I would have bought the pro version.:cry:

[DCM]

sorry about that, it is usualy a given, that the turn limit, if run close to, you run risk of thermalling, on any ESC. Updating the firmware to the latest, will make it run a lot cooler.

[Lowie]

At a glance.... he will need the latest firmware, but here goes, from memory

Neutral Width LED 1&2 lit
Throttle Profile 3 or 4 depending on track
Limiter 90
SENSORED ONLY
Timing on ESC 30'
Timing on motor 0'

Hope that helps dude
why not running it in dualmode but in sensored only?

[DCM]

with a stock motor type (10.5, 13.5 etc) it gives more RPM at the top end, and it makes the timing more controllable.

[Lowie]

aha I c,

but unfortunatly it would be used for running the Tamiya BL (12T) motors and those are sensorless if I'm not mistaken.

[DCM]

ah, right, I didn't realise.

I would look at running a similar setup to the 4wd buggy then

Dual Mode
Timing 80-90
Limiter 90-100
Throttle profile 2-4 (depends how he likes his throttle delivery)

Hope that helps

[mikeyscott]

Hi,

Ran my RS Pro in my XX-CR Kinwald (yes a XX) today and very nice. However can people recommend settings for a 7.5 LRP X11 brushless on lipos etc. FDR is currently around 9.4 as recommended by the LRP X11 manual.. I am looking at selling the motors I have for a LRP X12 as I have been paid!

Think I need to look at the netural width settings etc.

http://www.michael.scott.btinternet.co.uk/tekin.jpg

This is with a KO Helios EX-10 and soon to be a Savox Servo when it comes back from RMA.

Cheers,

Mike

[DCM]

BS - 100%
NW - 1&2 LED's
TP - 2 or 3
Timing Advance - 70-80
Current Limit - start at 70%, see how traction and punch is out of the corner

You can use Sensored mode, with 10' boost, but you will need to gear down a tooth

[mikeyscott]

Hi

Thanks for the info.

Any reason why to bring the current limit down? Also 100% Brake strength that'll be quite agressive won't it? I'm not a great fan of brake, more gradual brake etc.

I see the timing has gone up since I've just updated the firmware.

Traction at my local track is high as it's astroturf. Titchfield.

[Fabs]

For 2WD braking about 80%.

You really want the timing to 80%

The limiter is to help at the start and from low speed, more controlable punch. If you doubt it, Kev Lee won last 2WD national with his set at, if i'm not mistaken, 90A. If it's good enough for him...

[DCM]

Hi

Thanks for the info.

Any reason why to bring the current limit down? Also 100% Brake strength that'll be quite agressive won't it? I'm not a great fan of brake, more gradual brake etc.

I see the timing has gone up since I've just updated the firmware.

Traction at my local track is high as it's astroturf. Titchfield.

I run the brakes at 100% on the ESC, and then turn them down to suit on the radio.

[mikeyscott]

Hi chaps.

Thanks for the answers. I'll be modifying it futher as recommended :)

What led me to this was I thought the ESC wasn't correctly set due to my 7.5 feeling "slow". After rebuilding one of my laptops to a 32 bit Windows O/S I can get it all set right.. Time to get a cheap laptop for racing ;)

Just got to get used to it. Got an LRP Sphere TC in my B4 with a 10.5, but the XX, 7.5 & Tekin rocks

[DCM]

I got a Redline 10.5 in the X Pro, and it isn't a slouch...

[discostu]

why do you guys use the dual mode i found the sensor mode smoother and faster!

[mikeyscott]

I got a Redline 10.5 in the X Pro, and it isn't a slouch...

True and it may end up back in the Losi.

[Randy p]

Sensored only mode is generally used for spec class racing. Most mods don't need more than 30 degrees of timing overall and Dual mode has that. Dual mode is also more efficient and has smoother power. So if traction is too high and you're needing to keep the wheels down it's nice.

Sensored only mode can be faster if setup right. Often times though people over time their setup and or over gear them which causes too much motor heat...

Both work well. I generally go to dual mode once I get to the 8.5 and lower.

RP

[mikeyscott]

I've set-up mine as per the LRP manual for the FDR of around 9.5

That's on a XXCR 2.19

[magnus]

For 2WD braking about 80%.

You really want the timing to 80%

The limiter is to help at the start and from low speed, more controlable punch. If you doubt it, Kev Lee won last 2WD national with his set at, if i'm not mistaken, 90A. If it's good enough for him...

How much is 90A? Is that the same as value 90?

[Randy p]

90a is 90 amps. Our current limiter is viewed and adjusted in percentage of 100.

[blue_pinky]

Hi,

I've been looking at the Tekin RS Pro and 6.5T redline Sensored motor to go in a B44, I've seen that there is a combo package available but can only find it listed on US shops sites on tinternet.

Although I've bought a lot of stuff from the US and shipped back to the Uk in the past I'm interested to know who in the Uk would the best bet to get one of these sytems from and what the UK price would be?

Any hints gratefully received! Apologies if this question has been asked before and I've not spotted the answer!

[DaSloth]

Only place i've found the 6.5 in stock is dms racing. i think they sell the rs pro, but im not sure if there are any in stock! :)

[DCM]

Hi,

I've been looking at the Tekin RS Pro and 6.5T redline Sensored motor to go in a B44, I've seen that there is a combo package available but can only find it listed on US shops sites on tinternet.

Although I've bought a lot of stuff from the US and shipped back to the Uk in the past I'm interested to know who in the Uk would the best bet to get one of these sytems from and what the UK price would be?

Any hints gratefully received! Apologies if this question has been asked before and I've not spotted the answer!

Try www.fusionhobbies.com if they don't have it in stock, they can get it in pretty fast, and is probably the cheapest in the UK.

[blue_pinky]

Thanks guys, I'll give them a try.

Spotted the ESC on it's own at fusion hobbies and DMS, but not the combo, I'll get in touch directly and see what they can do.

Cheers

[DCM]

most won't hold a combo in stock, as it is such a specific item, but I know they can get them in fast.

[Bungleaio]

The combo isn't improted to the UK, I found this out when I tried to buy one a few months ago.

I ended up getting my esc and motor from apex models as they had them in stock at the pre price rise price.

Any shop that has got a much more account should be able to get you a motor and esc. Don't forget the hotwire, although not essential it makes tuning a lot easier.

[DCM]

if you want to keep up to date with firmware, then you either need to know someone friendly with a hotwire or buy one.

[blue_pinky]

Well I'll see how I get on with finding a combo here, I prefer to keep it uk supplied, but if the ££'s are significantly different, then it's a tough call not to import it really!

I plan to get a hotwire as well if I go this way, it's part of why I like the look of it!

[jrb4]

The Hotwire is definitely the way to go. It has a lot of options on it that you don't get with the on-board programming. Also, you can update your ESC whenever they either fix a glitch or give it more go go :)

[KeithA]

Well I'll see how I get on with finding a combo here, I prefer to keep it uk supplied, but if the ££'s are significantly different, then it's a tough call not to import it really!

I plan to get a hotwire as well if I go this way, it's part of why I like the look of it!

Much-More UK have all the Tekin Redline sensored mod motors in-stock as well as the RS Pro, the RS and the Hotwire so any combination is available. Tekin's US retail list price for a combo is less than 1% cheaper than buying the products separately and you just would not get UK shops/distributor's stocking another 24 combinations as separate part numbers for that saving small saving.

[blue_pinky]

Just looked and your absolutely right! So that's understandable then.

Interesting really...since they only cut the price by that tiny margin ($310 for the combo vs $315 for motor and esc), then you'd think it's not really worth Tekin's effort to do the package at all? All the extra packaging, logistics, etc...seems pretty silly to me! Oh well.

For reference the price at fusion hobbies for the motor and esc is £240, about £47 more than US price at todays exchange rate, but the US price does not include shipping and duty...Uk it is then!

[magnus]

Timing question. I run my xxx on 5 Nimh cells with a 6.5t motor. I set the timing to 80 as I've seen many of you suggest. My car has extreme low end power. It doesn't spin loose even in dirt. Do I increase or decrease timing or is it something else. I have CL off.

[DCM]

Timing question. I run my xxx on 5 Nimh cells with a 6.5t motor. I set the timing to 80 as I've seen many of you suggest. My car has extreme low end power. It doesn't spin loose even in dirt. Do I increase or decrease timing or is it something else. I have CL off.

What are you trying to acheive? and what motor have you got?

[magnus]

I want some more power to clear jumps. The motor is a LRP 6.5 bonded rotor.

[DCM]

put a sintered rotor in there, instant power boost, or turn the timing down on the motor for more bottom end.

[Darren Boyle]

Only place i've found the 6.5 in stock is dms racing. i think they sell the rs pro, but im not sure if there are any in stock! :)

Hi guys, just spotted this thread, I can confirm that we do have the Rs and RS Pro both in stock and the 6.5 Redline motors too.

[Randy p]

What is your gearing in your XXX?

[magnus]

It's 18/82 with that motor. The thing is that with my lrp esc it's no problem. Rather the other way around. It's too powerful.

[Randy p]

For a 6.5 that seems undergeared for a 2wd car. I'd expect something more like 78/22.

[magnus]

Well it's ok for a bonded magnet. Slightly low but it's a rather short track. I mailed Tekin and they told me to reduce timing to 15. Now it's working fine.

For a 6.5 that seems undergeared for a 2wd car. I'd expect something more like 78/22.

[DaveG28]

Guys,

New to this thread, just wondering, if I purchased an RS Pro and 5.5 redline sensored motor, do I needany aftermarket parts to run it safely? THinkin in temrs of extra Caps, if it needs a fan etc?

[DCM]

as long as you either get the hotwire and update it, or know someone with a hotwire, and update it, there is no need for extra caps or a fan, although it may be worth getting a spare cap, just in case.

[HarlowS]

You dont need fans on them but a few of us are running one infront of the posts, especially on a hot day on high grip/grass tracks etc.. Just helps to keep things a bit cooler. Failing that just point the solder posts towards the air vents on the bodyshell and job done. :) Never had a cap go on me but i guess it would never hurt to have one spare.

[DaveG28]

What happens when they overheat, do they permanently die or just switch off until cool?

Doubt I'd fit a fan near the solder posts, and also wouldn't be able to get them near an air hole!

[DCM]

they shut down.

[micksid]

i have a tekin r1 pro, but the case is damaged a bit now, can i get replacements for this? if so where from??

[DCM]

not to sure if MuchMore has any, but you may be better emailing Tekin direct.

[Randy p]

You can get cases from us. $7 plus shipping.