Motor advice

[philipjones01]

Hi. I am new to this game and would like to upgrade my brushed motor in my TR02c. I bought the rtr car and it is currently stock. I would like a motor that will be competitive but controllable. I don't really understand all the figures on motors so have no idea what to look for.
This looks to be good value http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22599__HobbyKing_X_Car_Brushless_Power_System_30 00KV_45A.html
Is it any good?
Thanks

[K-Brewer]

My advice would be spend a little more on electrics an think about the future, it wont be long before u(ll be wanting to upgrade that combo for a esc that can handle a lower turn motor. My suggestion would be something like this

http://www.insidelinemodels.com/inside-line-shop/motors-speedos-brushless/speed-control-esc/reventon-r-esc-2s-comp-v3-0-8-5r-combo-p

Depending on track size, surface an ur ability running a 8.5t motor should suit most tracks

[Ashlandchris]

Hi Phil,

also bought 3 sets of the X-Car combo you show above for my 3 kids. They have used them for ~12 months, but 1 packed in after ~4 months, 1 went after ~8 months and 1 is still running. I have a reventon R in my box for when it does give up the ghost
The 2 that failed I fitted the Speed Passion Reventon R combos with 13.5t motors (don't want kids with anything too fast).
I run reventons in all my cars (sounds like a fleet, but isn't really!) and they have been bomb proof.
They are easy to adjust (although I must admit some of the settings have names that mean nothing to me - i.e. DMTS or DRSS. There is an explanation in the manual, but who knows whether setting it at 2 is better than 4?)
You can get a Reventon S combo for ~£65 or the R combo for ~£75.
If you can stretch to it, the R is better, but also, look on here as you might find a reventon pro 2nd hand for similar money and they are great.

But, on the flip - the X-Car was really easy to set up. Programme card is very simple and has all data printed on it. Drives pretty smoothly.
just as a note though - 45A wont enable you to run a particularly quick motor

Hope cars are running OK and you are nearly ready for a trip to Batley

[philipjones01]

Thanks for the advice guys. I think I will wait and spend the extra and get one if the better quality set ups.
I've been down to the batley club to watch a couple of times with my son. Looks a good set up. You boys are a bit high level for me just yet and the one battery I have at the moment won't see me racing for long! I will get there soon though.

[200sx]

The hobbyking combo would be perfect. An 8.5 is a silly suggestion for someone starting out and will ruin the team c ball diff pretty quickly.

[K-Brewer]

The hobbyking combo would be perfect. An 8.5 is a silly suggestion for someone starting out and will ruin the team c ball diff pretty quickly.

As i say the 8.5 is a suggestion depending on track an ability. To say the team c ball diff would be ruined by an 8.5t motor is almost laughable

[200sx]

There's a well known issue with the team c/ansmann ball diff. The bearing carrier in the outdrives aren't deep enough and the diff rings too thin. Even when fully cranking the diff there is insufficient pressure between the balls and rings, in some cases the bearings make contact and bind the diff action. A milder motor and a properly set slipper avoids issues.

[Ashlandchris]

There's a well known issue with the team c/ansmann ball diff. The bearing carrier in the outdrives aren't deep enough and the diff rings too thin. Even when fully cranking the diff there is insufficient pressure between the balls and rings, in some cases the bearings make contact and bind the diff action. A milder motor and a properly set slipper avoids issues.

Didn't know that - I ran a 9.5t in my team c for approx 6 months without a prob, but I'm quite a steady driver. Maybe I was lucky!
As I said above, I'd advise caution with the x-car combo as I have had repeated failures with the 45a ESC on a 17.5 t motor. One works a treat though (for the moment).

[Clive Loynes]

There's a well known issue with the team c/ansmann ball diff. The bearing carrier in the outdrives aren't deep enough and the diff rings too thin. Even when fully cranking the diff there is insufficient pressure between the balls and rings, in some cases the bearings make contact and bind the diff action. A milder motor and a properly set slipper avoids issues.

Not all of them are like this. I think it was a bad batch that got through. My brother did have one of these diffs, which we modified to make the bearing recess deeper and then all was well.