Ford Focus clicking noise in steering wheel column + idle revs

[Southwell]

Im hoping someone can help me here....

When i turn left or right at any speed there is a clicking noise coming from the steering wheel, it did stop for a bit but is now just persistent. Any ideas from cars folk?

Also another problem. When i put the air con on, or light, or heater the revs drop below idle and it almost stalls, it's done it for as long as ive driven it and it's really annoying. When you have the lights on they dim and then come back and the heater only blows properly when you have the revs above idle.

Please only post if you have any recommendations.

Many Thanks

[Chrislong]

For the revs dropping, it would be either a dieing battery or alternator. Kwik fit tend to do free battery and alternator tests.

As for the clicking, that'll be something different. Mark Christopher would be the best to ask on that one I reckon. ;)

[Southwell]

For the revs dropping, it would be either a dieing battery or alternator. Kwik fit tend to do free battery and alternator tests.

As for the clicking, that'll be something different. Mark Christopher would be the best to ask on that one I reckon. ;)

Cool, i was thinking alternator too but didn't fancy the bill :lol: If it's free tests ill go see them, cheers dude.

[DCM]

at a guess, I would say, more a weak battery than an alternator, unless you got a seak turnover in the morning. You can do a quick test with a multimeter, set to DCV across the battery terminal, not to sure on the ford, but between 13.5 and 14.5 is a good reading, above or below that isn't good.

Clicking noise is for Mr Christopher.

[Southwell]

It's never failed to start quickly and first time though so i didn't think that, but i have a meter i can test it with. I take it i need to do it running to get that kind of voltage, dont wanna blow my meter. :p

[DCM]

yes, running. It could be your alternator, if it is struggling under load, but you can also get a load test done on the 12V too. The revs should drop when you put a heavy electrical drain (lights etc) or mechanical drain (air con) but the ecu should pick up the drop in revs and compensate........

[Col]

does it click when the steering wheel is turning, or when turning a constant corner (ie steering wheel not moving, but not centred)?
Also do the indicators self cancel?

[Northy]

yes, running. It could be your alternator, if it is struggling under load, but you can also get a load test done on the 12V too. The revs should drop when you put a heavy electrical drain (lights etc) or mechanical drain (air con) but the ecu should pick up the drop in revs and compensate........

Agreed, on our old Focus the revs would drop for an instant, then pick up as the car increased them to cope.

G

[Southwell]

does it click when the steering wheel is turning, or when turning a constant corner (ie steering wheel not moving, but not centred)?
Also do the indicators self cancel?

It only clicks when turning the wheel, not during a corner.
Yep, everything else works properly.

[mark christopher]

as col

does the noise occur when stationary and turning the wheel, if it sounds like its behind/in the steering wheel, could well be the clock spring (wheel off and new one) clock spring is actually the air bag connector that lets the wheel turn and keep the connector, if its a clicking noise pulling out of a junction etc could be one of your cv joints

as for low idle could be numerous things

air leak on engine (can you hear any sucking with engine running and bonnet open?
idle valve sticking (though will normally idle undershoot and cut out)
pcm calibration ( early focus had a re cal to fix this, dealer only unless you know somone in ford dealer)

as for voltage check

focus has smart charge and will go up to 15 volts, not a normal alternater and krapfit normally diag them wrong then send em to the dealer or take your money and run.

to do a volt test use the cars dash;)

ignition off, hold the trip reset button in, ignition on and wait for it to sat test, then release button and press/release to change functions one will say BAT thats your bat voltage should be around 11 with ignition on, start key without keying off and should be around 14 with headlamps and heated screen on.
there are other functions in that test, bulbs, lcd, digital rpm etc, even dtc but ignore those there for manufacture/plant.
key off will turn it back to std dash

[Southwell]

Agreed, on our old Focus the revs would drop for an instant, then pick up as the car increased them to cope.

G

I would expect that too, but they drop so low that you can feel it about to stall, although it never does. Ive never had a car which lights dim or blowers go from full to about nothing coming out.

[mark christopher]

It only clicks when turning the wheel, not during a corner.
Yep, everything else works properly.
ok check bottom of colum, make sure there is nothing catching it
take off the top columb cowel and unclip indicater stalk, take it off, if noise still there as my previous post, clock spring

can be changed easy, no need to disconect batt, we never do for air bag repairs, just dont spin it or the wheel when removing or fitting

[mark christopher]

I would expect that too, but they drop so low that you can feel it about to stall, although it never does. Ive never had a car which lights dim or blowers go from full to about nothing coming out.
id go for pcm update at first thoughts, if its ok if you control idle near 1000 rpm
if you goto dealer ask for pcm update check, and kam reset (keep alive memory) as that stores idle values, reset it and it will load base values then relearn.

long time old focus for me now but im 99% sure if you disconect the battery for 10 mins the kam will reset, you will need radio code, if you dont have that and can get radio out i can get the code for you foc, let me know so u can call me if your stuck

[Southwell]

to do a volt test use the cars dash;)

ignition off, hold the trip reset button in, ignition on and wait for it to sat test, then release button and press/release to change functions one will say BAT thats your bat voltage should be around 11 with ignition on, start key without keying off and should be around 14 with headlamps and heated screen on.
there are other functions in that test, bulbs, lcd, digital rpm etc, even dtc but ignore those there for manufacture/plant.
key off will turn it back to std dash

Thanks for that mark, ive just checked but none of the menus had BAT?

I have a 2004, 1.6 Edge.

[Southwell]

id go for pcm update at first thoughts, if its ok if you control idle near 1000 rpm
if you goto dealer ask for pcm update check, and kam reset (keep alive memory) as that stores idle values, reset it and it will load base values then relearn.

long time old focus for me now but im 99% sure if you disconect the battery for 10 mins the kam will reset, you will need radio code, if you dont have that and can get radio out i can get the code for you foc, let me know so u can call me if your stuck

Cheers dude, ill try that tonight if it stops raining.
Ill call the Ford garage and see if they can fit me in.

[mark christopher]

Thanks for that mark, ive just checked but none of the menus had BAT?

I have a 2004, 1.6 Edge.
tis in there retry, but got steady on how fast you press the button

[Southwell]

Ive gone through the menu 3 times now and cant find anything which says BAT. I wrote it all down but it makes no sense, as i would expect being a test mode. :lol:

[mark christopher]

my mistake im thinking of new focus, it will look something like this b11.0 the figures are your bat voltage, look for the b
just had a play in an old shape focus to find out

[Southwell]

Edit

[Southwell]

Ok, i have: 10.7 on ignition and 13.4 running.

EDIT: sorry 13.2 with screen and lights on. This is from cold.
It dipped into the 12's when i turned them on.

[mark christopher]

battery reading is lower than we would expect, how long have you had car? ever had a battery?
be wise to get batt checked out on a free test, make sure they have a good battery tester not just a volt meter

does car get good runs or local stop starts?

[Southwell]

Umm, it was 6 months old when we bought it, never changed the battery though. I know a good garage who should be able to help me.
Normally just has stops and starts but when we were doing 20 mile runs it still did it. Im unsure when it started but it was about a year or two ago that i noticed it, but the mrs never got it fixed before the warrenty ran out as it wasn't my everyday car. Now i drive it everyday it really annoys me.

[mark christopher]

Umm, it was 6 months old when we bought it, never changed the battery though. I know a good garage who should be able to help me.
Normally just has stops and starts but when we were doing 20 mile runs it still did it. Im unsure when it started but it was about a year or two ago that i noticed it, but the mrs never got it fixed before the warrenty ran out as it wasn't my everyday car. Now i drive it everyday it really annoys me.
also ask em to check the earth points under each headlamp

[Southwell]

also ask em to check the earth points under each headlamp

Ok, cheers mate, really appreciate it.

[Southwell]

They said they can do the battery no probs but not the earthing points and i would need to go to the main dealer for that.

[bodgit]

check your bat voltage when everything inc engine is turned off. should be about 12.8-13v start up the engine with fans lights etc off... if the alternator is working the voltage should be about 14.5+v
Have you undone both bat terminals and battery earthing post and given them a clean as they could be just corroded giving you poor output. I had this prob a few years back

[Southwell]

How do you get 14.5v on a 12v with nothing charging it?
Good call on the terminals, ive not checked them myself.

[bodgit]

[quote=Southwell;200083]How do you get 14.5v on a 12v with nothing charging it?
the alternator is charging it if it is working correctly

[DCM]

I think Bodgit meant, that with the engine running and no electrical load, you should see 14.5v at the battery.

[bodgit]

I think Bodgit meant, that with the engine running and no electrical load, you should see 14.5v at the battery.

yep thats what I meant

http://www.super-smileys.com/images/smileys/513.gif

[Southwell]

12.1 off 14.5 on.

[mark christopher]

check your bat voltage when everything inc engine is turned off. should be about 12.8-13v start up the engine with fans lights etc off... if the alternator is working the voltage should be about 14.5+v
Have you undone both bat terminals and battery earthing post and given them a clean as they could be just corroded giving you poor output. I had this prob a few years back

How do you get 14.5v on a 12v with nothing charging it?
Good call on the terminals, ive not checked them myself.

[quote=Southwell;200083]How do you get 14.5v on a 12v with nothing charging it?
the alternator is charging it if it is working correctly


ok
as i said ford have a smart charge system fitted this will supply up to 16 volts to the system, and a low range of 10.6 volts.

sorry bodgit but you will not get 12.8 to 13 volts on a static battery test, unless it has surface charge, if it does then your readings are false any how.
anywhere round 11 to 12 volts is ok, this is confitmed by how our £800 hand held battery tester! they need testing under load as well as at rest

an alternator can still give out say 15 volts but zero amps, that means its duff

if you look on the ford alternators you will see a main battery feed and a plug with three wires, two are pcm control, one is battery.

any lack of voltage/amps the lamp will be illuminated, its a very clever system

it should hold steady at 14/14.5 volts under load and off load with the engine running

much more or less will flag a dtc and may put on the charge lamp


sorry to bang on but as i have said its not a conventional charge system and many do not understand its operation or complexity. been working with the system not since focus was launched, we have odd alternator failure, allways lamp on, or broken wires, again lamp on.


still think this is the older fault which is an issue with pcm calibration as its ok it owner picks up the idle., being pcm controlled the pcm claibration also alters the alternator output to prevent dimming


southwell pm me your reg and i can see if its ever had a pcm update under warranty

[mark christopher]

re pm reg, not had any warranty work done at all!!

[Southwell]

Do they do the PCM update and KAM resets for free? Should i just phone up to book it in?

[Spencer Mulcahy]

Its like Coronation street this cant wait to find out what is wrong with it. Hope you get it sorted Ian.:D

[Southwell]

I was just gonna trade it in for a new car but we're keeping it for the time being so i can't really ignore it anymore :lol:

[mark christopher]

southwell done some digging have a look at this its an oldy and should not apply to yours. also asked out field enginer who thiks its pcm calibration, his suggestion was to check that after checking the battery

unfortunatly they will charge for the update, shame your not nearer me


No.70/1999
22 July 1999http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/img/htmlDocument-25x19.gif (http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/tsb/tsbView.do?regionalNumberYear=1999&regionalNumberSequence=70&language=en&country=US#)[Printable HTML page] (http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/tsb/tsbView.do?regionalNumberYear=1999&regionalNumberSequence=70&language=en&country=US#)
Circulate to:Service ManagerBody Shop ManagerParts ManagerForemenReceptionistsTechnicians (c)1999 Ford Motor Company Limited. Eagle Way, Brentwood, Essex CM13 3BW, United Kingdom.
This bulletin represents technical service information only. Without exception all gratis repairs and replacements are subject to the individual warranty and policy procedures of the supervisory Ford Company. The illustrations, technical information, data and descriptive text in this issue, to the best of our knowledge, were correct at the time of publication.
Subject/Concern: Faulty charging system/amendment to FDS 2000 diagnosis procedureModel:FocusMarkets: AllSection: 414-00 (31)Summary
Should a customer express concern over the vehicle failing to start, or the charging control lamp being illuminated constantly or intermittently, or headlamps and/or instrument panel flickering/dimming (EXCEPT when excessive electrical loading is applied), the probable cause is a faulty alternator. This could be due to either ingress of salt water into the regulator, or torque relaxation of the regulator earth bolt causing ground interference.
Dealers are experiencing some difficulties diagnosing these alternator issues. To rectify this concern, this bulletin contains supplemental test steps to guide a technician in diagnosing a failed/faulty alternator.
These additional steps will be included in the relevant Service Publications at the next update.

Parts RequiredDescriptionFinis CodeQuantityAlternator Assembly (Zetec)1 070 8041Alternator Assembly (Zetec‐SE)1 090 0851Alternator Assembly (Diesel)1 079 3121Cable Tie6 061 9151Wiring LoomParts Microfiche1Labor TimeOperation DescriptionOperation No.TimeAlternator Assembly - Remove and Install-31 414 0Additional Test Procedure, All except Diesel-31 414 0Additional Test Procedure and Wiring Loom adjustment, Diesel only-31 414 0Charging System FDS 2000 Preliminary Checks-31 414 0Charging System FDS 2000 Main Electrical Check-31 414 0Repair/Claim CodingCausal Part:ACES Condition Code:Defect Code:09OASIS203100, 204000, 206000, 603300Service Instruction
See Summary
Test Procedure

1. The following inspections and checks are to be included when carrying out Diagnosis and Testing of the charging system (refer to Focus Manual, Section 4, Electrical, Subsection 414‐00).
All Diesel Variants built up to 10.03.99 inclusive
2. Detach the intercooler air guide and remove the intercooler (refer to Workshop Manual Operation Number 21 134 0).

http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/graphic.do?id=Z9912049

3. Check the 3‐pin connector wire branch for damage (especially in area just below intercooler).
1. If damaged, install a new wiring loom (see Parts Required)
http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/graphic.do?id=Z9912050

4. NOTE: Wire branch should to be positioned to avoid touch contact with intercooler.
Attach 3‐pin connector wire branch to fan shroud.
• NOTE: Wire branch is to be loosely attached to the fan shroud to allow for engine rock.
1. Attach wire branch to fan shroud with cable ties (see Parts Required) as necessary.
All Vehicles
5. Prior to commencing the Charging System Diagnostics program, check condition of the alternator 3‐pin connector and surrounding alternator regulator area. If any damage is apparent, replace the alternator (see Parts Required) and/or the wiring loom (see Parts Required).
6. Carry out the Charging system Diagnostics program. If the alternator fails with an Indictment Code, replace the alternator (see Parts Required) and re‐test the system for function. If the alternator fails without an Indictment Code, go to next step.



7. Voltage comparison test with 3‐pin connector connected.

Run the engine at idle, switch on dipped headlights and heated rear window.
Observe for about 20 seconds, then record the voltage output across the battery terminals (using Voltmeter).
If the output voltage is not betweeen 12.5 - 15.5 V, and/or is unsteady (i.e. varies by ± 0.2 V) replace the alternator (see Parts Required) and re‐test the charging system.
If the output voltage is steady and within range, switch off the headlights, heated rear window and engine, and proceed to next step.
8. Voltage comparison test with 3‐pin connector disconnected.
1. With the ignition off, disconnect the alternator 3‐pin connector and make sure the connector is held in a safe position.
1. Run the engine at idle, switch on dipped headlights and heated rear window.
1. Observe for approx. 20 seconds, that the output voltage is steady (within ± 0.2 V), then record the voltage output across the battery terminals. Switch off engine.
1. If this output voltage is the same as the voltage recorded in the previous test (within ± 0.2 V) the alternator is running on default mode and should be replaced (see Parts Required). Re‐test the charging system.
1. If the output voltage recorded is not the same, go to next step.
9. Ignition off load test.
9. http://etis.warley.fordstar.com/illus/glyph_gif/caution.gifCAUTION: Disconnect the battery ground cable.
• NOTE: All vehicle electrical loads must be switched off and the doors closed before this test is carried out.
1. With the ignition off, reconnect 3‐pin connector.
1. Using a suitable ammeter, measure the vehicle key off current load between the battery ground cable and the battery negative terminal.
1. If the current is below 2.0 Amps, the alternator is OK.
1. If the current exceeds 2.0 Amps, carefully disconnect the alternator battery positive connection and re‐measure the vehicle key‐off load.
1. If the current reduces below 2.0 Amps, replace the alternator (see Parts Required) and re‐test the charging system

[Southwell]

Ah, thats interesting! Would i still be covered for this despite being out of warrenty?

[telboy]

Hey southy, listen to the christophmeister, he knows what he's doing when it comes to fords!! lol


Mine had the 'cutting out at junctions' and 'low revs problem' and he sorted it for me.

Mine just recently (as it started getting cold) was starting die electrically when everything was on- heaters, lights, stereo, windscreen wipers, and more importantly, the windscreen de-mister- I replaced the battery, as I bought the car at 5month old, (1999plate) and it hadn't had a battery replaced.
So i changed it, and it hasn't died since.
It does dip in voltage a little but it no longer dies comlpetely.

I'd change it before it gets worse. I decided to change mine after we went away for a few days and the car actually died and came to a stop in the middle of a busy junction in the pouring rain and wouldn't re-start!...Great.

[mark christopher]

Ah, thats interesting! Would i still be covered for this despite being out of warrenty?
if and if you have had from new and have full dealer history you could ring customer service at ford and ask for help, but dont hold your breath

get your bat checked by a good garage (free if you can)then try update

[Southwell]

Yeah my local place is going to do a free test.

Give me a computer system and im happy as Larry, i hate cars :lol:

[telboy]

We changing ours soon anyway...


...you any good with Citreons Mark?:p

[Southwell]

Well the battery was duff, had a couple of dead cells aparently. Took it out and although it did drop a couple of times it was about as much as i would expect as i turned everything on :woot: It does seem a lot smoother now when the revs come down. :thumbsup: Just gotta find the audio instructions now :lol:

One other problem i have which i forgot to mention. If i change gear quickly i get a screech from what sounds like a pulley. It's as soon as the clutch bites i think, but it doesn't actually seem to slip and hasn't got any worse?

[ben]

Southwell, your an ANIMAL!!

[Northy]

One other problem i have which i forgot to mention. If i change gear quickly i get a screech from what sounds like a pulley. It's as soon as the clutch bites i think, but it doesn't actually seem to slip and hasn't got any worse?

Spigot bearing? :eh?:

G

[westie]

could be the steering rack!

westw00d

[DCM]

you mean the clutch release bearing.... don't think so, might be a drive belt though.

You got nowt on my Garage v Renault Espace saga.... went in at the end of Sept..... might get it back next week....

[Southwell]

Southwell, your an ANIMAL!!

Go hard or go home. :lol:

Nah, all these problems were from when the mrs drove the car.

[Southwell]

you mean the clutch release bearing.... don't think so, might be a drive belt though.

You got nowt on my Garage v Renault Espace saga.... went in at the end of Sept..... might get it back next week....

I was thinking a drive belt too, but not sure which. Gonna have to get it checked at a garage anyway.

Are they rebuilding the Espace from the ground up? :woot: That amount of time is rediculous.

[Southwell]

Spigot bearing? :eh?:

G

Hope not, might as well replace the clutch at the same time.

[DCM]

I was thinking a drive belt too, but not sure which. Gonna have to get it checked at a garage anyway.

Are they rebuilding the Espace from the ground up? :woot: That amount of time is rediculous.

easy enough to just check the drive belt tension, if one feels loose, then you got a good idea....

Espace.... ecu went (again), so non-runner (no fuel to injectors), ecu went off, the electronics technician went on the sick, when the ecu came back, they fitted it, but nobody spotted the brocken connector block in the engine bay. So, two months of them trying to start it, dumping all that unburnt fuel, and a little oil into the cat. The original tech had it, spotted the fault, fixed it in 2 hours.... but now the Cat has disintigrated and all the parts have gone down the exhaust and destroyed it.... so now we argue over who replaces the exhaust..... bloody car mechanics.....

[mark christopher]

could be clutch squawk
normally when the clutch is glazed by light drivers(not opposite off fat, light clutch users)
normally just as the clutch is biting

there is a way to see if its that, but be warned!! too much and you will loose drive alltogether

you neet to deglaze the centre plate, (bit like squealing brakes, few hard stops to deglaze them and there ok again) to do that slipp the clutch hard a few times so it stinks, but dont go mad

if that cures it it may stay away for awhile, if it comes back then new clutch im affraid

aux belts normally slip/squeal on full load (power steering/ac/alternater) or on start up not whan taking up drive train to move off

[mark christopher]

We changing ours soon anyway...


...you any good with Citreons Mark?:p

nope i got one but only do basics, sister in law had a xantia, had a fault and even citroen could not sort it, got here in a nice focus diesel estate ghia now!!

easy enough to just check the drive belt tension, if one feels loose, then you got a good idea....

Espace.... ecu went (again), so non-runner (no fuel to injectors), ecu went off, the electronics technician went on the sick, when the ecu came back, they fitted it, but nobody spotted the brocken connector block in the engine bay. So, two months of them trying to start it, dumping all that unburnt fuel, and a little oil into the cat. The original tech had it, spotted the fault, fixed it in 2 hours.... but now the Cat has disintigrated and all the parts have gone down the exhaust and destroyed it.... so now we argue over who replaces the exhaust..... bloody car mechanics.....
got auto tensioner on it so you can pull on belt and move tensioner

[Southwell]

could be clutch squawk
normally when the clutch is glazed by light drivers(not opposite off fat, light clutch users)
normally just as the clutch is biting

there is a way to see if its that, but be warned!! too much and you will loose drive alltogether

you neet to deglaze the centre plate, (bit like squealing brakes, few hard stops to deglaze them and there ok again) to do that slipp the clutch hard a few times so it stinks, but dont go mad

if that cures it it may stay away for awhile, if it comes back then new clutch im affraid

aux belts normally slip/squeal on full load (power steering/ac/alternater) or on start up not whan taking up drive train to move off

Ok thanks, i might give it a go if im feeling brave. :woot:
I normally give my cars some beans every now and again but Faye drives slow all the time so it could well be that.

[mark christopher]

Ok thanks, i might give it a go if im feeling brave. :woot:
I normally give my cars some beans every now and again but Faye drives slow all the time so it could well be that.
just a couple of good slips

somin like setting off in second or third gear with some revs on

or dive along steady in 3rd hold foot flat on ass and dip clutch a few times, i know this sounds rough but,,,,,,,,,,,, needs must

[Southwell]

just a couple of good slips

somin like setting off in second or third gear with some revs on

or dive along steady in 3rd hold foot flat on ass and dip clutch a few times, i know this sounds rough but,,,,,,,,,,,, needs must

Im going out in a bit so ill give it a go. cheers.

[Southwell]

Ok, well it stopped it for a bit, then came on again on the way home so i think the clutch is knackered. Will i need the pressure plates changed too or is this part of the repair?

Also i noticed a whine noise from cold which goes when warm and makes more noise the more revs you have. Another problem :lol:

[Spencer Mulcahy]

The script righters on this episode or off ther tits the clutch is goosed now.:woot:

[woOdy]

ok check bottom of colum, make sure there is nothing catching it
take off the top columb cowel and unclip indicater stalk, take it off, if noise still there as my previous post, clock spring

can be changed easy, no need to disconect batt, we never do for air bag repairs, just dont spin it or the wheel when removing or fitting

Take it you have never had an air bag go off on you then while working in that area then? I had one go off while working on a radio? Pug 607.

[tjf]

Right the clicking noise is probably the clock spring (airbag contact)

As for the idle problem it could be a couple of things but all cars will have a change in idle speed when extra load is placed on the alternator as it makes the engine work harder.

It may just need the idle speed control valve cleaning out or we have had hego sensors give this kind of problem (lamda sensors)

Does it happen when hot,cold or both?

[Southwell]

Thats pretty much sorted now, does it a tiny bit with stuff on, but it seems the battery was at fault.

How much roughly would the clock spring cost to get fixed? Not sure i wanna play around near the airbag.

[tjf]

Well without looking the part up I would say about £50 plus an hours labour to fit.

They arent that hard to do just have to disconnect the battery for 15 mins before doing it.

[mark christopher]

Take it you have never had an air bag go off on you then while working in that area then? I had one go off while working on a radio? Pug 607.
nope 20 years and not one in all that time, granted they not been out for that long but.......... mind you im talking removal, refit, not probing wires tho some of ours are on AC volts
ohm meters and power probes are a big no no

[mark christopher]

Ok, well it stopped it for a bit, then came on again on the way home so i think the clutch is knackered. Will i need the pressure plates changed too or is this part of the repair?

Also i noticed a whine noise from cold which goes when warm and makes more noise the more revs you have. Another problem :lol:

just to point out that the clutch is not knackered, its just a noise and it wont fail.
complete clutch now consists of pressure plate and center disk, release bearing is extra and part of the slave cylinder

Thats pretty much sorted now, does it a tiny bit with stuff on, but it seems the battery was at fault.

How much roughly would the clock spring cost to get fixed? Not sure i wanna play around near the airbag.


not hard to do if you want to be safe then disconect battery for 1 mins, i can email you the step by step instructions if you drop me your email via pm

Well without looking the part up I would say about £50 plus an hours labour to fit.

They arent that hard to do just have to disconnect the battery for 15 mins before doing it.

i can do em in less than 15 mins from start to finish, though we dont take battery off (ford recomend you do but not many do even field engineers and training colleage)

Part is £45 part number is 1148268
labour time is 33 392 0 (L) Air Bag Sliding Contact(Clock Spring) - Remove And Install All MUA 0.7 of an hour

that includes 1mins disconect and recode battery so TJF must like to lift legs by charging an hour :o:p

and yes its 1 min to allow system to shut down NOT 15mins

"Wait at least one minute after disconnecting the battery ground cable"

[Southwell]

Ive just taken the top cover off the wheel and the noise sounds like it's coming from the footwell? Could it be the UJ connection from the steering column? Is that correct terminology? :p

[mark christopher]

yes i did say check bottom 1st, spray wd on it

[Southwell]

Ah i see that now, did read back through but missed it, thanks.

[PaulRotheram]

tard :p

[Southwell]

Well shes still creaking at the joint after lubing her up.

[Northy]

Well shes still creaking at the joint after lubing her up.

MORE LUBE! :woot:

[Southwell]

MORE LUBE! :woot:

She can't handle much more before she gets too slippy, or sloppy. :woot:

[Southwell]

Well the noise has all but gone now, just needed to penetrate a bit better, car smells like crap now though :lol: Cheers for your advise Mark.