Why flip rear pivot blocks on X-5?

[Fiddybux]

Hi,

I've heard people mention this, and seen setups (e.g. Ellis Stafford), where the rear pivot blocks are flipped over, and out of necessity have been ground away to make room for the outdrives, as the natural left block goes on the right and vice versa. But I wonder what is the point in this? What does it achieve?

I've had a think about it, and as far as I can tell it would raise the chassis in relation to the rear wishbone / suspension arm by about 3mm, or however tall those little lugs are on the pivot blocks are. But what I don't know is what effect this would have on the handling.

Can anyone shed any light on this for me? I'm sure others are wondering the same thing too.

Thanks in advance.

[ashleyb4]

It raises the hingepins and allows the car to go though the bumps better.

A

[bigred5765]

and alters the rear anti squat,

[Lee]

I think Ellis or Elvo will be able to give you a technical answer to this but ill try to do my best.

What you are doing is lowering the wishbone pivot point in relation to the chassis. this means that you are raising the roll centre, the rear of the car will roll a bit more in the corner but it should be better over bumps and just feel that bit more planted.

We used to play about with raising wishbones when i raced on road and moving them up by 0.5mm made a massive difference to the handling of the car.

[ashleyb4]

Surely arent you raising the wishbone pivot point compared to the chassis as you are raising the hinge pin?

A

[elvo]

Inner hinge pin goes UP in relation to the chassis - if everything else stays the same - roll centre goes UP, rear end rolls LESS.

But I think the plantedness comes from having the wishbone and camber link closer together.

BTW, the little lugs should be filed/Dremeled off.

[Fiddybux]

and alters the rear anti squat,

How does it alter the anti squat Carl? We talking more anti-squat, like more than 4 degrees or something?

I don't suppose you can have less than zero anti-squat...'cos this would be pro-squat. He he, anti anti-squat.

Dunno, just rambling now.

[Fiddybux]

Inner hinge pin goes UP in relation to the chassis - if everything else stays the same - roll centre goes UP, rear end rolls LESS.

But I think the plantedness comes from having the wishbone and camber link closer together.

BTW, the little lugs should be filed/Dremeled off.

Oh right...cool advice...and I would have left the little lugs on which would have properly ruined the whole mod!:cry:

Cheers.:D

[elvo]

2° anti-squat block flipped = 2° pro-squat = not what you'd want. To be remedied with lots of spacers under the front 2 screws.

Using the 0° block is probably easier.

[Fiddybux]

2° anti-squat block flipped = 2° pro-squat = not what you'd want. To be remedied with lots of spacers under the front 2 screws.

Using the 0° block is probably easier.

Right okay...that's handy as I've got loads of 0 degree blocks cos I never use them.

Would I need to stick washers under the rear screws to put me back near 2 degress?

[ashleyb4]

Put washers under the front screw to bring you back up to 2 degree.

A

[Fiddybux]

Isn't that only if you use the 2 degree blocks though Ash?

If you use the 0 degree blocks then surely you put the washers under the rear screws?

[bigred5765]

wrong way round russ,under the front gives you anti squat, under the rear gives you pro squat

[GRIFF55]

Any links to pics of this mod please?

[ashleyb4]

an ok picture at the bottom of the page of ellis's mod at the bottom of the page on his xx4.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewxx4/ellisxx4.html

A

[GRIFF55]

got ya. cheers ash

[Fiddybux]

wrong way round russ,under the front gives you anti squat, under the rear gives you pro squat

Cheers Carl.

[Fiddybux]

How many anti squat shims are required under the front to bring it back to 2 degrees?

I have loads of anti squat shims left over from my XXX and they would be ideal to use I guess.

[bigred5765]

we use to use one of the xxx shim for 2%

[Fiddybux]

Cheers Carl.

So tell me, do you have an issue with there being a gap between the bottom of the rear shock tower posts and the pivot blocks?

I'm just wondering if I will make a gap when I file off the little lugs on the pivot blocks when I flip them.

[ashleyb4]

Pleanty of threadleft in the tower just tighten the screws more.

A

[Fiddybux]

It's not that at all....it is because the inside of the tower meets with the top of the rear diff cover and dremeling the inside too much weakens the tower loads. I expect I will have a gap as I can't physically get the tower to sit any lower without removing more material from inside.

[ashleyb4]

put a washer on top of the rear pivot block mine seems to be fine.

A

[Fiddybux]

I'll try it, thanks.

[super__dan]

put a washer on top of the rear pivot block mine seems to be fine.

A


Ash, you don't run an X5 as far as I'm aware though. The tranny tunnel profile is different.

Bux, do you mean at the front? You really want it to sit down as much as possible and all be clamped down properly. If it's not there is chance the toe in block can move up and down and your antisquat will actually change during the run. You can take some material out of the top of the diff cover to gain some more clearance.

Actually have you deliberatly threaded out the toe in blocks? As if not you'll often tighten up in that thread so you can't pull the tower down far enough.

[ashleyb4]

Yea i know the tunnel is diffrent and you have to remove some of the material from the shock tower for it to fit it should clamp down the washers where just a suggestion.

A

[Big E]

Ash, you don't run an X5 as far as I'm aware though. The tranny tunnel profile is different.

Bux, do you mean at the front? You really want it to sit down as much as possible and all be clamped down properly. If it's not there is chance the toe in block can move up and down and your antisquat will actually change during the run. You can take some material out of the top of the diff cover to gain some more clearance.

Actually have you deliberatly threaded out the toe in blocks? As if not you'll often tighten up in that thread so you can't pull the tower down far enough.

I actually drill out the toe block holes so that it only tightens to the tower.

Just dremel more from the tower to get the 2 to meet. You can take some of the housing but may as well do it off the tower.

There is a brace available from X Factory (by some clever E Speed guy :p) that you can put on the front of the tower to beef it up for when it is dremeled.

E.

[Fiddybux]

Thanks Dan and Ellis...that is much clearer. :)

[gps3300]

Do all of you that run upside-down-blocks put washers back undeneath to get 2 deg anti-squat?

I tried the mod with 0 degree blocks and didn't like it because it made the car unpredictable (would dive off sideways over bumps), but now I'm thinking I forgot to add washers :blush:

[Big E]

I just run the 2° and cut of the pimples and stick them on the car, don't really play with the squat too much on it as I never feel I need to and don't have any washers under them.

E.

[Fiddybux]

Do all of you that run upside-down-blocks put washers back undeneath to get 2 deg anti-squat?

I tried the mod with 0 degree blocks and didn't like it because it made the car unpredictable (would dive off sideways over bumps), but now I'm thinking I forgot to add washers :blush:

Well I'll let you know after Sunday! I'm running the 0 degree blocks with XXX Anti-Squat shims under the front screws between the chassis and the blocks. The blocks are visibly angled backwards now (higher at the front).

I had to take a lot of material off the blocks though because they were fouling on my outdrive savers.

I've kept the 2 degree ones to one side and will whip them back on in the event of unpredictability...but at least on the bench the 0 degree flipped ones feel lovely and means I have a greater range of useful movement in the shock, i.e. they're threaded into the middle of the shock now whereas before they were almost fully tightened down.

[Southwell]

I only run 2 deg blocks with a thin washer under the front.

[super__dan]

Personally I'm a 0 deg man, pimples cut off, sometimes with 1 washer under the front if I want some antisquat but often not and so 0deg.

[Southwell]

Personally I'm a 0 deg man, pimples cut off, sometimes with 1 washer under the front if I want some antisquat but often not and so 0deg.

Interesting, might give it a go but im not sure it will have the stability i like. O yeah, i cut the pimples off too.

[YoungChazz]

Remember that if the shock tower is not in the correct location (up and down) you are changing the entire suspension geometry. While this might be advantageous, considering the legendary quality of the xx-4 suspension, that's not likely. I suggest doing what is necessary to maintain the same assembled height as standard.

[Migs]

Hey dudes, ive been reading this thread, and i dont know if im confused or other people are confused, so this is what ive gleaned from my own knowledge of this and whats in this thread, my understanding is that flipping the blocks would not affect anti squat, the 2 deg or 0 deg block refers to the amount of toe-in the block gives the arm (right or wrong?) Ashley brings up a good point and its backed up by young chazz, as soon as you've filed something away on the block, the tower, if screwed all the way down to meet the blocks against the chassis, will then sit lower than it previously would (that could all be very small amount of difference) a spacer in between the block and the tower would restore tower height and should also then avoid the need to dremel more off the tower to get it to fit over the belt tunnel

[super__dan]

Not quite,

We're all talking about the worlds (CR) toe in blocks which are all 3 deg toe in. The 0 or 2 refers to the amount of antisquat the block has when the right way up. Personally becasue of my concern that a 2 deg block reversed should give 2 deg pro squat, for ease I always use the 0 block so it's easier to then washer up the front edge to generate antisquat as required.

The pips you trim off are very small, I wouldn't worry about tower height being effected, however becasue they are amall I wouldn't want them as the low face you clamp down hard against the chassis.

[Migs]

ahh, thanks Dan, now i understand it all, im assuming the result would be the same if using the old blocks also ( as in changing the height of the hingepin), im not an anti squat user either. Did i miss the meeting where everyone decided to run the cr rear blocks?lol are you guys therefore running cr rear arms and hubs. I like the old school setup, but i was going to toy with 0 deg toe-in and 1 or 2 deg toe in at the hubs

[super__dan]

3 deg inboard come on the xx4 WE? It's xx CR not the newer XXX CR.

The 0 deg inboard and toe outboard was from the original XX/XX4, the only person I know that used that was Cree who liked it with the 2 1/2 deg hubs. I have the bits for it but tend to stick with the 'norm'

As it happens though I am now using the XXX CR wishbones and hubs for for different reasons, there is no forced compatability.

[Fiddybux]

Well I'll let you know after Sunday! I'm running the 0 degree blocks with XXX Anti-Squat shims under the front screws between the chassis and the blocks. The blocks are visibly angled backwards now (higher at the front).

I had to take a lot of material off the blocks though because they were fouling on my outdrive savers.

I've kept the 2 degree ones to one side and will whip them back on in the event of unpredictability...but at least on the bench the 0 degree flipped ones feel lovely and means I have a greater range of useful movement in the shock, i.e. they're threaded into the middle of the shock now whereas before they were almost fully tightened down.

Well I said I'd come back on comment on the car with 0 degree blocks and anti-squat shims under the front screws to bring it back to 2 degrees of anti squat.

It was freaking awesome! Never have I felt the X-5 so planted and predicable to drive fast. This was on an indoor circuit at the Southport GP. Two carpet types, jumps, bumps / ripples and slippery tarp. I'm certainly sticking with this mod.

[super__dan]

Excellent!

[Migs]

3 deg inboard come on the xx4 WE? It's xx CR not the newer XXX CR.

The 0 deg inboard and toe outboard was from the original XX/XX4, the only person I know that used that was Cree who liked it with the 2 1/2 deg hubs. I have the bits for it but tend to stick with the 'norm'

As it happens though I am now using the XXX CR wishbones and hubs for for different reasons, there is no forced compatability.

Yep i assumed you were all talking XXX-cr blocks, and yep, i'll be mucking around with some old school XX4 blocks with the 0 deg toe in inboard, i have 1 and 2 deg hubs, the other way to do it as someone pointed out in another thread is to keep the 3 deg inboard, then put the hubs on backwards so they cancel out some of the toe, but i want to try it all out, running stock, toe-in represents tyre scrub which slows the car marginally so the less toe i run, the faster in a straight line it should be, then there will be diminishing returns if the car loses handling with less toe in, on a grippy smooth track it should work out better, and now it seems people are liking the blocks upside down, i'll try that first, then try the toe adjustments. oh and the "no forced compatibilty" comment is awesome, im not a fan of the ea3 cr hubs and arms and all the vla stuff, every time i tried it on the XXX4 i seemed to never be able to get the width right, either the cvds seemed too short or too long, which is why i stick to the standard bits, plus too many options with the hub and u have to run a fair few washers under the ball stud, so the ball cup doesnt hit the hub when the suspension is compressed.. However, now i know i can run the blocks without needing to change anything else, that helps

Thanks for reporting back to us Fiddybux, are u fiddycents cousin or something?:lol:

[super__dan]

With all the Losi cars you must the right combination of wishbones and hubs. I used to run a XXX4, other than the original hubs and wishbones your options were to run the BK2 rear wishbones and hubs, but you HAD to run them both. If you did you could run the long or short VLA with no change to the width of the car so the driveshafts shouldn't mover. Note that the XXX4 rear geometry was not the same as the XXCR.

You can't run the BK2 stuff on the XX4 or X5 becasuse it is based on the XXCR back end. Hence becasue the inner toe in blocks are in right place you CAN put the XXXCR wishbones AND hubs becasue they are based on the same inner toe in points.

To run the XXXCR hubs you 'must' cut the inner set of holes off using a dremel or whatever, that way no ballstub washers are 'needed'. Personally I now run the new hubs in the D hole which is the 2nd outer (1/2 outer?) hole with no washers. That combined with going 1 hole further in (longer) on the tower link position has really helped lock in the rear end for me.

[Fiddybux]

With all the Losi cars you must the right combination of wishbones and hubs. I used to run a XXX4, other than the original hubs and wishbones your options were to run the BK2 rear wishbones and hubs, but you HAD to run them both. If you did you could run the long or short VLA with no change to the width of the car so the driveshafts shouldn't mover. Note that the XXX4 rear geometry was not the same as the XXCR.

You can't run the BK2 stuff on the XX4 or X5 becasuse it is based on the XXCR back end. Hence becasue the inner toe in blocks are in right place you CAN put the XXXCR wishbones AND hubs becasue they are based on the same inner toe in points.

To run the XXXCR hubs you 'must' cut the inner set of holes off using a dremel or whatever, that way no ballstub washers are 'needed'. Personally I now run the new hubs in the D hole which is the 2nd outer (1/2 outer?) hole with no washers. That combined with going 1 hole further in (longer) on the tower link position has really helped lock in the rear end for me.

That's really interesting Dan...but I'm finding it a little difficult to visualise. Can you post a pic of yours for us?

[super__dan]

Just on way out, will try to upload when I get back.

[Fiddybux]

Lovely...look forward to it.

[super__dan]

OK, so this is a pic in order from top to bottom
BK2
XX CR
XXXCR
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture001.jpg
The inner pivots are all aligned, you can see that the inner hole on the BK2 and the outer hole of the XXX CR wishbones all align. And that the BK2 has an wider VLA hole and the XXX CR a narrower VLA hole.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture003-1.jpg

The pic below the original XXX4 hub (the BK2 is the same but extra outer hole for the wider VLA mentioned above) and the XX CR (xx4 WE or X5) hubs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture005-2.jpg

I've not got a spare XXX CR hub to add on to compare but you can see from the above that the bearing faces are different, which is why the width of the car and driveshaft/diff position varies if you start mixing and matching.


OK so this is how I've got my X5, using XXX CR wishbones and hubs, I use the outer VLA position which is same as the original hole on the XX CR (xx4WE) wishbones.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture012.jpg

The one thing to note with the wishbones is that the shock pickups are different. The OUTER hole on the XXX CR wishbones is almost the same as the INNER hole on the old XX CR ones (technically it's between the inner and outer hole of the old arms). This is good for me becasue I virtually never used the outer hole wishbones, but wanted ones further in. We ran softer springs a lot last year, I want to try the inner holes and red springs this year to see how it compares, or even just go further in when tracks rut up.

Lastly you can see the hole I'm using in the hubs and the corner I've cut off so there is no fouling off the turnbuckle end and the corner of the hub.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture013.jpg

[_sleigh_]

Great post Dan, it really hightlights all the options available.


also... I spy with my little eye, something beginning with "L" :D Works well don't it ;)



for those of you that are intrigued by that comment above, have a look here - http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19226

[Fiddybux]

Yes that is truly awesome Dan. You went above and beyond the call of duty there...thank you very much. All very clear.

Love that method of fixing the LIPO in too. I opted for a plate and strap system, but this raises the centre of gravity slightly. Yours keeps the CG as low as it can go. Ace!

[super__dan]

As Phil says some better pics of the strap in other thread. Totally Phils idea, better than the way I originally had it. It's now all very safe/secure/snug.

"We've" been really lucky that Lipo's fit in our car so well/easily with such minimal mods. None of us know what's happening with saddles but even if/what are allowed I think you'll be better off with stick Lipos and any that fit the rules footprint will fit.

[Migs]

awesome post dan, as said, way above the call of duty, just to round it out for me, in the pic with the hubs, if you had a xxxcr hub on there with it running through the outer hole on the hub, would it match up with the xx4/xxcr hub meaning we dont have to change driveshafts at all, if the 0 deg inboard toe in doesnt work, i'll switch to this setup, jesse robbers ran his xx4 like this, so that could be helpful and i have no idea why i didnt think of chopping a bit of that corner to stop it fowling on the ballcup

And your lipo setup rules, i was thinking of doing something like that but i wasnt sure how to attach something to the back of the chassis like that without it coming out the other side and folwing on the battery, so i went for the simpler batt post up the back left of the battery area, which to my annoyance meant the battery doesnt sit perpendicular to the chassis

thanks again super "helpful" dan

[super__dan]

Migs, I assume the CR bearing face is the same else there would be a change in width though I've not checked. I'll have to dig deeper to see if I've any XXX CR hubs somewhere in the box as I can't be arsed to take them off my car.

What I would say is that on the old B2/3 when I used to also run stock, I used to frequently try to run the 2 deg hubs for the same reason you mention i.e. less scrub - more performance.

I always concluded that I couldn't feel any performance gain but the car was always that little bit harder to drive. Maybe it's better in 4wd, in fact it must be at Lee Martin ran the very successful first season with Aero with little/no toe in but I'd now always go for setup over anything else.

[Fiddybux]

Okay, this is all gold!

But excuse my ignorance here chaps, I can understand the point of wanting to use XXXCR bones so that you can stand the rear shock more upright if needed (because the lower shock positions are set inward than the equivalent XX4 bones - as clearly shown above).

What I don't really get is the benefit of all the ball cup options on the top of the hubs. What does angling them back wards away from the body do? Why is it better / different than just standard inner / middle / outer configuration we're all used to? If someone could explain this to me then I'll give this a go.

Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but you can't use the inner VLA without changing to shorter XXXCR CVD's right? I'm not even sure you would want to run it like this anyway - it would probably tip over more easily is my guess. But it would have a smaller turning circle though. Hmmmm.

Finally, can this mod be run along with the flipped block mod and is there any benefit to this? I suppose what I'm asking is are the two mods mutually exclusive from one another? So you can get the benefit of the flipped block mod AND the benefit of this mod (whatever they are) at the same time? I guess you can, and I don't see why not, but my thinking might be flawed.

Cheers guys,

Russ.

[ashleyb4]

I've not got a spare XXX CR hub to add on to compare but you can see from the above that the bearing faces are different, which is why the width of the car and driveshaft/diff position varies if you start mixing and matching.

You mean like this dan...

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/488/dscf1038vf3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/dscf1038vf3.jpg/1/w1024.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img210/dscf1038vf3.jpg/1/)

Left xxxcr middle xxx4 right xxcr sorry for poor quality my camera is going flat must to left it on.

here is my xxx-cr rear end

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/8183/dscf1040yz2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/dscf1040yz2.jpg/1/w800.png (http://g.imageshack.us/img231/dscf1040yz2.jpg/1/)

A

[Paul_Sinclair]

What I don't really get is the benefit of all the ball cup options on the top of the hubs. What does angling them back wards away from the body do? Why is it better / different than just standard inner / middle / outer configuration we're all used to? If someone could explain this to me then I'll give this a go.


There are five options in the XXX 'CR' hub carriers - the three on the 'front' row and the two in the middle row. They're staggered to get them all on the block without a loss of strength. The back row is there so that the hubs are reversible - you flip the hub around to run it on the other side of the car, and the back three holes become the front three. Angling the upper camber link back (going from the front row to the back row, same hole) would change nothing handling wise.

[Body Paint]

Nice one Dan! part numbers would make it perfect :D

[ashleyb4]

Losi xxx-cr rear VLA EA3 wisbones - A2132

Losi xxx-cr rear hub carriers EA3 - A2129

for thumbs

A

[bigred5765]

Okay, this is all gold!




Also, correct me if I'm wrong, but you can't use the inner VLA without changing to shorter XXXCR CVD's right? I'm not even sure you would want to run it like this anyway - it would probably tip over more easily is my guess. But it would have a smaller turning circle though. Hmmmm.

Finally, can this mod be run along with the flipped block mod and is there any benefit to this? I suppose what I'm asking is are the two mods mutually exclusive from one another? So you can get the benefit of the flipped block mod AND the benefit of this mod (whatever they are) at the same time? I guess you can, and I don't see why not, but my thinking might be flawed.

Cheers guys,

Russ.


the vla option is just to shorten the wishbone length,you can run it as is xxxcr wishbone and hubs gives you long or short vla, theres two hole in the hub same as you see on the wishbones, so no cvd or drive shaft changes,and as for flipping the rear hub, the benefits stay the same which ever wishbone and hub you use,

[Fiddybux]

the vla option is just to shorten the wishbone length,you can run it as is xxxcr wishbone and hubs gives you long or short vla, theres two hole in the hub same as you see on the wishbones, so no cvd or drive shaft changes,and as for flipping the rear hub, the benefits stay the same which ever wishbone and hub you use,

Hey Carl,

Yeah okay....so the hub stays where it is, just the pivot point of the hub and wishbone moves in or out depending on the VLA position. Makes sense!

[super__dan]

I'm a bit late onto this tonight but seems everyone has it all covered ;)

Oh and yes the mods are fine together. I run flipped 0deg blocks all the time and not the XXXCR wishbones and hubs all the time.

[Fiddybux]

I'm a bit late onto this tonight but seems everyone has it all covered ;)

Oh and yes the mods are fine together. I run flipped 0deg blocks all the time and not the XXXCR wishbones and hubs all the time.

Yeah cool. So if you're running a track that needs the rear shocks standing more upright you can just slap the CR bones and hubs on - sweet.

[Lee]

Fiddy:

I think most of us now run the CR rear end pretty much everywhere, i think it helps the back end feel a little more planted.

[Fiddybux]

Fiddy:

I think most of us now run the CR rear end pretty much everywhere, i think it helps the back end feel a little more planted.

Blimey....I've fallen behind! ::eh?:

Thanks Lee,

Russ.

[Body Paint]

Losi xxx-cr rear VLA EA3 wisbones - A2132

Losi xxx-cr rear hub carriers EA3 - A2129

for thumbs

A

good skills, cheers Ash ;)

[Kecky]

So just to clarify a few things:

For all these mods i would need.......

XXXCR Rear Wishbones
XXXCR Rear Hubs
?????? 0° or 2° Anti Squat Blocks dependant on choice
?????? CVD's

Anything else?

Cheers

Ryan

[Gayo]

Fiddy:

I think most of us now run the CR rear end pretty much everywhere, i think it helps the back end feel a little more planted.

Is it thanks to the inner shock hole, or do you also use the short VLA setting?

[bigred5765]

xxxcr wishbones are stronger,have the extra vla and its use able,(haven't tried it yet myself)hubs have height adjustable ball studs,no need to run cvd's,just personnel choice,

[super__dan]

Ryan,

To do the XXX CR rear end you ONLY need the wishbones and hubs. The toe in blocks you'll already have 1 set on the car. What I would say though is these do break (I've broken these but never, ever brokena a rear wishbone) so getting some spares would be a wise move. Personally I use 0 deg and washer accordingly, but each to their own.

You should not need any mods to driveshafts, the driveshafts on all Losi's are the same with the exception of the BK2, which have ever fitted an x5/xx4 with any mods. Edit, just realised the possible point of confusion, the cvd's and dogbones are fundamentally the same dimensions, it's purely personal choice as what to run. For me I always run CVD's!

Gayo, I think it's in part becasue the link is a little longer and higher at the outer end, where as on the old CR hubs , the height was not adjustable and got lower towards the outer hole. Of course as with so many things, it might all be in our heads ;)

I've yet to try Short VLA.

[Kecky]

Cheers for clearing that up Dan :D

[gps3300]

I just run the 2° and cut of the pimples and stick them on the car, don't really play with the squat too much on it as I never feel I need to and don't have any washers under them.

E.


This might be a silly question, but is there any advantage to running 2 deg instead of 0 deg when running them flipped?

[bigred5765]

if you flip a 2 degree it will give you pro squat, i may be wrong but I'm pretty sure thats a huge no no,

[Kecky]

Anyone got a part number for 0 degree anti-squat blocks and anti-squat shims?

[stegger]

DMS134 FELLA;)

[Kecky]

There for the X6 not the X5 numpty :p

Although you have made made Darren a few extra pennies with that post :lol:

[Darren Boyle]

There for the X6 not the X5 numpty :p

Although you have made made Darren a few extra pennies with that post :lol:

Thanks :thumbsup: ;)

[Kecky]

Yer.....I'd forgotten all about them, until Stegger reminded me :thumbsup:

[Darren Boyle]

Ryan, just had a quick look and I can see your order on our online system. Just quick, I will add the Losi roll bar as requested at the bottom, but we dont do the piano wire, so you will have to source that elsewhere mate, possibly locally...

Cheers, Darren

[Kecky]

No probs, Cheers Darren :thumbsup:

[Mabuchi_Johnson_Lee]

Hi guy, i know this is a old post but i need to ask what other alu rear upright fit on the cr rear arms? Cause i dun really like to use the Holly XXX-CR rear upright.

Will the B4 rear upright fit onto the xxxcr arms?

[YoungChazz]

I don't know for sure, but I do know that AE uses 7/64" hinge pins while Losi uses 1/8" so you'd have to drill the AE part out to 1/8".

[jaydits]

hi
i use to race with the rear hubs from a xxxcr truck
they have 3 ball stud hole,s and are realy durable
no more snapped ballstuds
joey

[Ferret]

Did anyone try flipping the pivot block on a xxx-cr (or a cr2)?

If so, what effects did it have?

Avner.