My X5 lipo mounting (and couple sneaky X6 ones)

[super__dan]

So I've changed the way I'm mounting the Lipo in my X5, I must admit to totally ripping off Phil Sleigh's design as it was much better than what I came up with initially.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture016.jpg

It's simply a peice of Carbon slotted for a strap, then screwed into the back of the chassis at the right height for the cells you're using.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture014.jpg

Front end is a battery post drilled in the right position

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture015.jpg

Couple of self indulgent photos of cars with new SMC lipos in them (4000mah 28C), they are really good so far though only used them a couple of times.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture008-2.jpg

And a couple of X6 for good measure, they are a perfect fit in the new chassis with the new battery straps

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture010-1.jpg

Wiring not quite up to ideal standards but with still trying various things in the new car and weight positions I'm not too 'worried' ;)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture011.jpg

Just as a disclaimer I should point out I've no idea if these will be BRCA legal this year until the list comes out ;)

[DCM]

will that battery strap on the X6 work with LiPo cells with the corally tubes in them?

[super__dan]

Yup,

I've seen Trackpwer and LRP/Nosram packs in various team cars/trucks. you have to have the connectors on the pinion side though.

[_sleigh_]

Yeppp, I can confirm the new strap fits just fine on LRP/Nosram & Trakpower cells. The connectors just need to be at the "Y" end of the X-Factory wording on the strap.

[Fiddybux]

That's brilliant. Love the way you've fitted that LIPO to the X5 there.

You know, they say mimicking is the highest form of flattery....I feel you've given me some inspiration to get the dremel out.

Can I just ask though, did you need to dremel the chassis much? It looks like you've removed one of the battery post bosses and the half moon at the back, but that's all it seems.

Also, the side section on the strap that reaches back towards the chassis....does this attach anywhere or is it just touching the side of the belt tunnel?

Finally, regarding the small piece of CF that the strap slides into, how is this attached to the chassis. Are there nuts on the other side of those screws or have you just screwed into the chassis directly?

Very nice work! Hope you don't mind me picking your brains.

Thanks.

[_sleigh_]

Ok then...

The chassis will require the following items dremelling;
- Rear half moon
- Both original battery mounts bosses
- The rear aerial mount (depending on the size of your LiPo)

If you intend to run your speedo in the two cell area, then you'll need to take out the battery mount bosses on that side too.

On Dan's strap the 'leg' that sticks out towards to the belt tunnel is simply a hang over from the source part he used (B4/T4 strap) so not entirely required. This might actually depend on the make of LiPo, so I'll let Dan confim if it's needed.

The rear slotted section on mine is screwed with two countersunk 4-40 screws into the lowest section on the chassis. I chose those area as it's the thickest section of the mould and I therefore didn't require any nuts that might have fouled the LiPo.

Make sure you use countersunk screws as any other type will foul the wishbone travel, so just double check things as you start your measuring/dremelling. :)

[Paul_Sinclair]

The chassis will require the following items dremelling;
- Rear half moon
- Both original battery mounts bosses
- The rear aerial mount (depending on the size of your LiPo)


You'll probably also have to touch up the rear part of the servo mount bosses.


Very clean install Dan!

[YoungChazz]

Nice professional job there, Danny boy. Proudaya.

[millzy]

whats an 8.5 doing in that x6. get some man power boy :)

i had a chat with Thumbs Harris on the weekend at the FTX about his x5 and runnig Lipo and i am very tempted

[Fiddybux]

Ok then...

The chassis will require the following items dremelling;
- Rear half moon
- Both original battery mounts bosses
- The rear aerial mount (depending on the size of your LiPo)

If you intend to run your speedo in the two cell area, then you'll need to take out the battery mount bosses on that side too.

On Dan's strap the 'leg' that sticks out towards to the belt tunnel is simply a hang over from the source part he used (B4/T4 strap) so not entirely required. This might actually depend on the make of LiPo, so I'll let Dan confim if it's needed.

The rear slotted section on mine is screwed with two countersunk 4-40 screws into the lowest section on the chassis. I chose those area as it's the thickest section of the mould and I therefore didn't require any nuts that might have fouled the LiPo.

Make sure you use countersunk screws as any other type will foul the wishbone travel, so just double check things as you start your measuring/dremelling. :)

Thank you Phil. Will definitely give this a go.

[Body Paint]

whats an 8.5 doing in that x6. get some man power boy :)

i had a chat with Thumbs Harris on the weekend at the FTX about his x5 and runnig Lipo and i am very tempted

Was a 7.5 in mine Sunday Mills, and the clutch was set well loose to tame it down.

[millzy]

in your x6? yeah i had a 6 sensorless in my b4 and the clutch set "whore" loose keep her tame also

its your x5 i liked- i love my b4 and im 98% stuck with it but 4wd is more open market

[super__dan]

The bit that sticks out is indeed from the T4 battery strap I used to make, however it gives that extra support so left it on there.

Phil have everything covered above really, I just screwed into the chassis with two short 4/40 screws, it is essential you countersink inot the carbon though to clear the front of the wishbone. There is not really much load on this to be honest, so as long as you don't crank those screws down there is enough support for this, worst case though run some glue round the edge to really toughen it up.

Mills - Firstly, I thought you had given up? Are you back? Nationals? Sounds serious if you're afte a 4wd again or do you still have your old X5?

I really like my 8.5, on 25*76, it's perfect for say York indoor. Probably not enough for outdoors though, plan to run a 7.5L then.

[millzy]

im doing the W.R.C.A and having a laugh with racing . might do the f2 and f3 finals ( yeah im an f3 now booo) ive did the odd micro meeting last year the EPR national in 4wd and the W.M.C.S GP in 2wd and 4wd . but no Nationals for 2009 to busy with the Taly track and the Kids :):)

I dont have my own 4wd at the mo, i sold my old x5 to Southwell when i gave up for something like £25quid ( still with that huge hole in the chassis) i am very impressed with the work that’s gone on with the x5 since i last drove one, i spoke to you and Tom last year about the new Ackerman bar and its developed again since then

[Body Paint]

in your x6? yeah i had a 6 sensorless in my b4 and the clutch set "whore" loose keep her tame also

its your x5 i liked- i love my b4 and im 98% stuck with it but 4wd is more open market

7.5 in both cars, had an LRP X11 in the X-6 (which is the same power as a novak 8.5) and an X12 7.5 in the X-5. Both cars were plenty quick enough.

[super__dan]

Yeah I'm currently most often on a 7.5 in my 4wd too indoors but anticipate wanting a 6.5L outdoors. So 7.5L 2wd and 6.5L 4wd I think (maybe not in wet).

[Fiddybux]

Hey Dan,

You know your SMC LIPO you show here, would you mind measuring it for me.

My Trakpower 4900 seems too long to fit in the chassis, even if I dremel out the half-moon, the rear antennae tube etc.

Based on my measurements, my 4900 comes half way across where the battery post is, and as such, is inaccessible.

Thanks,

Russ.

[Big E]

Hey Dan,

You know your SMC LIPO you show here, would you mind measuring it for me.

My Trakpower 4900 seems too long to fit in the chassis, even if I dremel out the half-moon, the rear antennae tube etc.

Based on my measurements, my 4900 comes half way across where the battery post is, and as such, is inaccessible.

Thanks,

Russ.

For the LRP lipo which is fairly long I had to just dremel away a little of the servo mount. I also had to take a bit off the servo post mounts which are not round anyway then mine fitted in, you may need to do the same.

E.

[Kecky]

I've fitted a 3600 trakpower in mine, and the length and width of that is the same as the 4900. The 4900 is 1.2mm taller that is all (according to the trakpower website).
To fit mine, i dremelled the half moon, the rear battery post mount and half of the front mount along with taking a little off the servo mount.
I then re-drilled and conter sunk the chassis to re-locate the battery post. I didn't need to touch the antenna tube location, as i have the battery sitting as close to the outside edge as it will go.
If you want me to post any photo's just let me know.

[Body Paint]

If you look closely at Dans pics you will see that he has cut a small amount off the rear of the servo mount as well as reamoving the half moon from the rear of the chassis. I have fitted Trakpowers in my X-5 in the same way, they are tight, but they do go in.

[super__dan]

Having offered up the TP cells they are a little longer if you have the heatshrink overlapping the ends, you can trim that back to make a little room. The other thing that makes a difference is servo type. The XX4 servo mount is handed for the variations in length of servo. A KO is a long one, where as the Sanwa/Airtronics ones are small (2mm?). This means the airtronics in mine (currently) fits with only the half moon removing. I aim to put another 2123 back in the X5 soon, at that point I suspect I will have to shave down the servo mount some, not ideal perhaps bu do-able.

[bigred5765]

we robbed phills/dans idea, and fitted a trakpower lipo in you do have to remove the back of the servo mounts but it does go in,

[Fiddybux]

I've fitted a 3600 trakpower in mine, and the length and width of that is the same as the 4900. The 4900 is 1.2mm taller that is all (according to the trakpower website).
To fit mine, i dremelled the half moon, the rear battery post mount and half of the front mount along with taking a little off the servo mount.
I then re-drilled and conter sunk the chassis to re-locate the battery post. I didn't need to touch the antenna tube location, as i have the battery sitting as close to the outside edge as it will go.
If you want me to post any photo's just let me know.

Hi Kecky,

I'd be very grateful if you could post a top and bottom photo.

I thought about relocating the battery post mount, but wondered whether it would be too close to the original and therefore weaken the area.

Also, how do peeps go about filling the holes where the NiMH's were sunk? Is it just a case of nasty, but effective, gaffer tape?

Cheers.

[super__dan]

Tape for me but others have filled them. I presonally don't have anything other than Araldite to do that which would be an expensive do! I do run hard cased Lipo though, would want it shielded with soft cased.

[Fiddybux]

Cheers Dan...that's what I do now. But I'd like a tidier job.

Anyone done something tidier than tape?

[sime46]

Mine with Cat sx bits. Seems to work ok...
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f53/sime46/catx5004.jpghttp://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f53/sime46/catx5002.jpg

[Fiddybux]

That's nice....presumably you are using the anti-roll bar links to hold the rear end brace for the battery strap?

Has it never slipped out sideways though....looks a little loose at the rear?

[Kecky]

The below picture shows what i have removed.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w111/xrayryan/DSCI0567.jpg

This picture shows the empty screw hole from the original battery post with the new one located at approx. 3 o'clock to it.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w111/xrayryan/DSCI0570.jpg

This picture shows the lipo fitted.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w111/xrayryan/DSCI0573.jpg

Sorry about the quality of the photos.

[sime46]

No mate. Its as tight as you like. I'm really pleased with it. If you look closely you'll notice its a tad offset and its almost wedged in? It moves more in my Cat tbh.

[Fiddybux]

Thanks for the pics Kecky, but have you got a larger one of the LIPO fitted. Finding it hard to see the detail on that one as it's a bit small. :confused:

From the other pics the new post seems very far back and to the edge. Is this right or am I missing something?

Thanks everyone.

[Kecky]

I'll sort some more pics later :)

[Lee]

Fiddy,

Kecky uses the same style of brace as me, he must be a genius too. :lol:

here is a pic of mine with a 4900 in, it has never come undone, you have to hook the strap on at the back before you put it over the post up front.
5510

5511

5512


Please note the white wheels.

If you need any more pics just give me a shout.

[Kecky]

Well the battery strap from my Mi3 was hanging around doing nothing, so i thought i'd put it to good use :lol:

[Lee]

It's the best use for a TC i have seen yet :thumbsup:

[Fiddybux]

Okay that's much clearer. No need for extra pics Kecky.

Cheers Lee!

[Al3xis007]

It's the best use for a TC i have seen yet :thumbsup:

lol i used a tc5 one!

[Fiddybux]

So how's this fellas? :thumbsup:

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j58/fiddybux/lipoinx5.jpg

Used the X5 belt pulley bar, a screw up from the underneath though the aerial mount into that, and then the aluminium bar screwed to the original X5 strap.

To get it out you just rock all the parts backwards after taking the clip out of the front.

Well pleased with it, but thanks to you guys for the inspiration and advice concerning where to dremel etc.

Russ.

[ScottyP]

Anyone tried Lipo saddles in the X5?

Would balance out pretty good I would have thoughts with the speedy, receiver, cap etc on the RHS of the car. Would probably mount the RHS saddle further forward though, opposite the motor.

Easy to mount I would have thought too with the old skool Schuey saddle straps.

Cheers,
Scotty P.

[bigred5765]

good idea

[Lee]

I tried saddles and i much prefer the car with a stick pack in. With the saddles i just felt the car rotated too fast and felt unpredictable, very skittish on the rear which is not like the x5 at all.

[super__dan]

Yeah I tried mine with some light saddles, I completely agree with Lee, I had to add an old 4200 cell behind the saddle on the servo for balance and the rear still wasn't as I would have liked.

It's do-able but I prefer the stick option.

[ScottyP]

Thx guys. Sounds like stick is the go.

Now just have to find time to build the bloody car!

[super__dan]

Just updating this thread

I've changed over to Vampire Racing Lipo's from the SMC packs, I've not had the chance to run them yet but they look great :)

All the packs I've got were according to my voltmeter perfectly balanced when I got them and so didn't take long to balance charge first time. Being 5200mah 30C, it now means all the team are running the 'big' lipos of their sponsor which all weigh roughly the same, which means setups from the team will be consistent.

Running them next weekend at the Batley Supercup, can't wait!

Just to note, on the X5 the Vampire racing lipo was a fraction longer than the SMC ones I had, so I've ended up having to shave the servo mount down a bit with the dremel. But it all fits in (as you can see ;) )

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture003-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture004-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture001-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture002-1.jpg

[super__dan]

Did some weighing up tonight and thought I'd share

X6

Total weight 1760g inc weight added to balance up the front. As I ran it last week, this was with body wig etc RTR and with Mini Pin tyres. This is deliberately heavy as so far we've found we prefer it this way.

Front - 36%, 638g
Rear - 64%, 1123g

Right - 50.7%, 895g
Lerft - 49.3%, 870g

X5

Total weight 1650g with no weight added at all

Front - 43%, 712g
Rear - 57%, 938g

Right - 50%, 829g
Lerft - 50%, 828g

So this is pretty conclusive that stick Lipo's are the way to go for balance I think. It's really pretty light at 1650 on mini pins (will be closer to limit with mini spikes on), so I might add some weight to the front if as and when I think it needs it..

** Please note I realise some of those figures don't quite add up to the right totals but they way I've done it isn't quite as precise as I'd like but it's pretty close.

[super__dan]

Wraggy, just to point out if you get some lead plate, you can see (kind of see bits off) I've got a square peice of the lead under the speedo and then a peice that totally fits in the servo bay.

The bit in the servo bay is only held in by the servo mounts (longer screws needed) so VERY easy to remove or change for a smaller peice. and is covered in black gaffa tape purely to make it look nicer. The peice under the speedo is not because my servo tape does not like to stick to the tape so it's stuck straight to the lead.

Not sure how thick the lead is but it's normal roofing lead I think, cut up with scissors.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture004-2.jpg

[jono83]

the roofing lead i use is jus under 2mm thick

[Garry Driffill]

Heres my take on fitting LiPo to the X-5, Ive seen how the Team guys are running theirs and looks cool. However i took it on slightly different..

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb274/xx4-nutter/12042009684.jpg

Bolting down 2 of the origional cell posts that have been risen up using 2 of the 4mm high J-Concepts gearbox to top deck spacers under them at the back of the chasis and one just next to the servo for extra support as i didnt fancy drilling into the lip of the chasiss and making a complete hash of it :lol:

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb274/xx4-nutter/12042009676.jpg

I had to take out the secondry Losi servo mount and replace it as seen in the picture which is a 'T' peice from the X-6 kit that holds the wall of the motor plate to the chais, Ideally i want to use an alloy on or an alloy servo mount from a B4, 501X or Yokomo BX. The strap im using is the Losi xxx4 one flipped over with the cell 'Ridges' taken off and finally ive filled in the cell slots in the chasis with resin mixing it with 'Dremal dust' from an old Hyper 7 hub to darken the mix up so it aint clear.

All in all it seems very steady and a normal stick pack sits in it sweet! - Next job, Schumacher CAT SX strap to make it look a tad neater..

:thumbsup:

[Body Paint]

I'm impressed.... I like that a lot.

The filled in chassis is looking good aswell ;)

[Garry Driffill]

Thanks Craig, I used parcel tape on the inderside of the chasis and its come up dead smooth.

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb274/xx4-nutter/13042009686.jpg

I did my dads with the resin too but left out the ground up dust out of it and its dried the same only clear so there isnt any disadvantage of mixing with the dust over not using it. It seems to work both the same if anyone was wondering of doing somthing of the same nature ;)

Next thing i want to do is fill in the irrelevnt countersinks..

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb274/xx4-nutter/12042009685.jpg

:drool: - Roll on Batley next week, Hoping and praying for dry weather!

[Body Paint]

Sweat, good job!

When you do the countersinks do fill them up from the bottom and put the tape on the inside of the chassis, it's really hard to get the resin into the holes the other way around ;)

[Garry Driffill]

LOL, Cool ok Craig ;)

Have you any pics of youres done up mate?

[Body Paint]

Mine are in bits again LOL.... more tweaking :lol:

[Garry Driffill]

:lol: ace!, Im wondering if i should or shouldnt go with the CR end, Also flip over the rear pivot blocks too, is it really worth doing?

[Body Paint]

Flipping the pivot blocks is well worth doing for outdoor tracks, CR rear end is one of the things my car is stripped down ready to do ;)

[Garry Driffill]

Just looking over the car and i 'Think' my pivot blocks could have aldeady have been done by Pedros from when i bought the car from him :)..

[super__dan]

Gary that looks great, you can route the servo wire up the tranny tunnel and tape it to the side, that would then be the ultimate!

I've done my new chassis for this year, I've just used std epoxy so it's 'clear', I've done all the spare countersunk holes too, looks really good. I've managed to get the lipo to fit right up to the tranny wall which I hadn't done on the old (test mule) chassis. Rest of car won't be built up for at least a couple of weeks now though.

[bigred5765]

Dan what is the weight of the all up car, and i know its a bit TC, but what are the weights on the wheels FR FL RR RL etc

[Garry Driffill]

Cheers Dan,

I did wonder about sending the servo lead inside the belt tunnle down to the back of the car actaully, I just may do that now. Was a little cautious to be honest of the belt catching it at any point but if its more or less 'Nailed' down it shouldnt be an issue AND effectivly make it ever neater.

Ive just fitted the Turnbuckle belt tensioner mod and the rear carbon link stregnthener for the shocktower. Then all i need to do is get the CR parts for the back end and im, well i beleive i'll be running somthing 'Like' you lads will be :lol:

Dan, The white 'Upgrade Parts' what are they actually for? :confused:

I notice youre not running them? or are youres dyed black?

[super__dan]

There is no real difference in the white parts, Chazz thinks they look cool and you can dye them. I'd chose to dye them black but have some of the old parts so use those.

I can't see the pics now as in work but I do remember thinking the one thing you need to get as a priority is the carbon fibre front shock tower brace (IMHO) as it strengthens it up so much and you'll need far less towers (I'd still have a couple of spares in the box).

I don't run the tensioner mod anymore, mainly cos it fouls the lipo, but since I've been on the all new pulleys (not that new anymore) I have such little problems with the belts and the window of setting has opened up some that I'm not that bothered.

FYI I'm not currently running the E Speed steering but will have to see when I get some proper outdoor running back in.

[Body Paint]

Cheers Dan,

I did wonder about sending the servo lead inside the belt tunnle down to the back of the car actaully, I just may do that now. Was a little cautious to be honest of the belt catching it at any point but if its more or less 'Nailed' down it shouldnt be an issue AND effectivly make it ever neater.
?

I was planning on making a brass weight that is screwed into the tunnel, if you stick lead into the tunnel you have no way of knowing if it is coming loose as you can't see it without removing the cover.

[YoungChazz]

The original black covers -- all three -- are still active part numbers. We have them in stock and I believe our U.K. stores have them or can get 'em quickly.

It's been a while, so I'll explain. Often when you see a pro driver with a prototype part on his car the part is machined white Delrin. So, we made white covers and call them "pro proto." Some people like them, others prefer black. You pays your money and takes your pick...

[Garry Driffill]

There is no real difference in the white parts, Chazz thinks they look cool and you can dye them. I'd chose to dye them black but have some of the old parts so use those.

I can't see the pics now as in work but I do remember thinking the one thing you need to get as a priority is the carbon fibre front shock tower brace (IMHO) as it strengthens it up so much and you'll need far less towers (I'd still have a couple of spares in the box).

I don't run the tensioner mod anymore, mainly cos it fouls the lipo, but since I've been on the all new pulleys (not that new anymore) I have such little problems with the belts and the window of setting has opened up some that I'm not that bothered.

FYI I'm not currently running the E Speed steering but will have to see when I get some proper outdoor running back in.

I've got front and rear carbon fibre re-enforcement on the front and rear tower, the carbon rear peice is the but that jumps from the links (Below)

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb274/xx4-nutter/Untitled-3.jpg

My lipo wont go flush to the inside chassis wall with or without the turnbuckle belt tensioner mod so either way it doesnt make a great deal of differnce but leaves some base setting if i have to do a quick belt change just makes setting the tension just that tad easier if anything really.

Do you run the extra roller that stops / reduces the belt skip under brakes Dan?

I was planning on making a brass weight that is screwed into the tunnel, if you stick lead into the tunnel you have no way of knowing if it is coming loose as you can't see it without removing the cover.

Hum, its abit touch and go aint it with anything inside the belt tunnel, I wonder if it would be best me running the servo leed down next to the Lipo on the chassis floor towards the back of the car and have it hop over the back near the anti rollbar mount?

:woot:

[Garry Driffill]

The original black covers -- all three -- are still active part numbers. We have them in stock and I believe our U.K. stores have them or can get 'em quickly.

It's been a while, so I'll explain. Often when you see a pro driver with a prototype part on his car the part is machined white Delrin. So, we made white covers and call them "pro proto." Some people like them, others prefer black. You pays your money and takes your pick...

They look cool i guess how ever all black sleek and minimal seems favourable, I just wonderd if there was maybe a differnce in running them, IE weight, size of spur (Obviously centre cover) or maybe for the rear not having to take so much off the rear tower to sit it over the rear diff :)

[super__dan]

Gary - Yes I do. That and the 'new' pulleys are what makes the transmission so much better than it used to be.

That carbon brace above really strengthens the tower up and makes the rear tower almost bulletproof

[Garry Driffill]

Its one thing that always put me off the car was the noise they made under heavy breaking but ive not heard it for a long time, Maybe everyone has been using the new pullys then, either that or they have been animals and not been using brakes! :lol:

Eh hem Tom..:p

[MikePimlott]

and not been using brakes! :lol:

Eh hem Tom..:p

2 speed Tom. Fast and re-charging

:lol::lol:LMAO:lol::lol:

[Garry Driffill]

2 speed Tom. Fast and re-charging

:lol::lol:LMAO:lol::lol:


:lol: Classic!

[super__dan]

Gary, I'd do it as it's a simple mod that's free really and may make a difference. Well it must do mustn't it? From an engineering point of view I like it anyway!

[Garry Driffill]

Cool, Well hopfully i'll be racing at Batley on sunday :thumbsup:

[YoungChazz]

You guys leave poor Tom alone! He's studying hard at Uni!

That's correct, Tom, isn't it???


LOL

[Lee]

He is on easter break now Chazz, i think he has been since january :thumbsup:

Chazz, i'm not sure if Ellis has spoken to you about something i tried last sunday?

If not i will send out an email to everyone and try to get some feedback. :)

[Northy]

Chazz, i'm not sure if Ellis has spoken to you about something i tried last sunday?

If not i will send out an email to everyone and try to get some feedback. :)

What was that then? Not turning up to the biggest race meeting of the year? :woot::woot::woot: That's gonna win ya nothing boyo!

G

[Lee]

I'm sure BJ told you i was away on friday :thumbdown:

I might show you next week if your good. :lol:

[bigred5765]

What was that then? Not turning up to the biggest race meeting of the year? :woot::woot::woot: That's gonna win ya nothing boyo!

G

surely the biggest meeting of the year, is the last national of the year as always,

[Body Paint]

My lipo wont go flush to the inside chassis wall with or without the turnbuckle belt tensioner mod so either way it doesnt make a great deal of differnce but leaves some base setting if i have to do a quick belt change just makes setting the tension just that tad easier if anything really.

Do you run the extra roller that stops / reduces the belt skip under brakes Dan?



Hum, its abit touch and go aint it with anything inside the belt tunnel, I wonder if it would be best me running the servo leed down next to the Lipo on the chassis floor towards the back of the car and have it hop over the back near the anti rollbar mount?

:woot:

First time I ran the X5^2 the belt would skip a tooth or 2 at the end of the straight on hard brakes, I put the roller on after the first time I ran the X5^2 and it stopped the belt skipping completely.

I can't fit the belt tensioners on my car either, but I have an idea about that. As soon as I get around to it I'll show you.

I made a lipo brace similar to yours last night and used a B4 sero mount to attach the servo to the tunnel ;) The servo wire now runs between the lipo and the tunnel to the back of the car and I have cut a hole through the tunnel and passed the servo lead through it. It pops out just in front of the receiver, perfect :).

[Garry Driffill]

First time I ran the X5^2 the belt would skip a tooth or 2 at the end of the straight on hard brakes, I put the roller on after the first time I ran the X5^2 and it stopped the belt skipping completely.

I can't fit the belt tensioners on my car either, but I have an idea about that. As soon as I get around to it I'll show you.

I made a lipo brace similar to yours last night and used a B4 sero mount to attach the servo to the tunnel ;) The servo wire now runs between the lipo and the tunnel to the back of the car and I have cut a hole through the tunnel and passed the servo lead through it. It pops out just in front of the receiver, perfect :).


Cool beans,

I looked at doing that too Craig, I think i'll crack on and get the servo lead done the same as youre way mate down the middle of the car and through the back, Did you send it under the bottom of the belt? Also how have you held it in place on the chassis and through the tunnel aswell mate?

Im going to get my servo mounts bought on Sunday. I also wonderd, Alloy steering nuckles would this be a benifit? Surely they cant be that hard to put together - (Calling Ben!!) ;)

Anouther question, Do the alloy J-Concepts front castor blocks fit on the front arms? Im sure that, well in curtain the spindles will fit obviously cos' they were run on the BJ4WE, S4 ect. Would make the front a little stronger yet?

[super__dan]

Anouther question, Do the alloy J-Concepts front castor blocks fit on the front arms? Im sure that, well in curtain the spindles will fit obviously cos' they were run on the BJ4WE, S4 ect. Would make the front a little stronger yet?

The castor blocks aren't weak anyway, I wouldn't bothed. Rich Lowe runs B44 ones on his BJ4 so there must be a reason he doesn't run them, can't remember what it is though, weight perhaps?

[Garry Driffill]

Thought they would add a cool bling factor if anything :lol:

Thanks for youre help on sunday Dan, aswell as you too Tom. I think my next thing is to buy a 5.5, the 4.5 was just too fast i think, I never got to use full throttle down Batley streight and after the banked corner i was on my back wheels all to the hairpin haha :thumbsup:

2 castor blocks, 1 belt and a fan later im still happy enough with this car :woot:

LiPo X-5² kicks arse!

[rcracer]

I couldnt believe how sweet they was to drive :)

[super__dan]

2 castor blocks, wow! I think you can't run the BJ4 ones because the Losi CVD's have a bigger joint which I don't think fit through the BJ4 ones designed for associated. Maybe wrong there though. Brian Preddy used to run some grey ones though which were nice but expensive.

Oh and Gary, eriously consider trying a 6.5. Even Tom has gone to a 6.5 now and he's an animal!

[tyreman]

2 castor blocks, wow! I think you can't run the BJ4 ones because the Losi CVD's have a bigger joint which I don't think fit through the BJ4 ones designed for associated. Maybe wrong there though. Brian Preddy used to run some grey ones though which were nice but expensive.

Oh and Gary, eriously consider trying a 6.5. Even Tom has gone to a 6.5 now and he's an animal!

Still have them, they were made by a main hobbies.

[Garry Driffill]

LOL - Maybe a 6.5 soon enough :lol:

Im working on my other chassis at the moment dan and ive changed things round a little bit, Which i think you might like. Ive managed to get the LiPo as tight as i can to the inside wall. Also using a clever little 'L Peice' im able to still run the turnbuckle belt ajustment too.

I'll have some photos of the end result in a few days..

;)

[Garry Driffill]

Here is my revised version of my Lipo X-5, Im working on a tensioner peice at the moment which will allow me to use the turnbuckle and still have the Lipo DEAD close to the inside wall..

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb274/xx4-nutter/25042009711.jpg

As you can see the servo has been shifted to the other side, none of the steering has been affected by this. The main reason ive done this is so my Lipo sits in the car easier and the pack doesnt chafe the servo lead..

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb274/xx4-nutter/25042009713.jpg

As for balance shifting the servo over to the other side i plan on sitting the handout Transponder there or maybe some additional weight maybe..

[jono83]

that looks awesome garry nice one

[super__dan]

Gary I'm really impressed, that looks ace!

[Migs]

the only drama will be a weight imbalance left to right caused by the servo but its a neat deal, i'd love to see the adaptation you have for the belt tensioner, i need a way to set up one on mine

[Garry Driffill]

Thanks for the kind words lads, Im going to have some photos up shortly once ive finished off the carbon fibre peice.

I did a short lap of the Deerdale 8th astro track today, I didnt give it full bore or anything just wanted to make sure the steering was 'ok' and it seemed absolutly fine. With regards to the weight balance, I doubt it will be that much of an issue really. Once this tensioner is in place i'll be happy.

[Body Paint]

Gary I'm really impressed, that looks ace!

+1.... that is sweet!

Does the shell fit over the servo ok?

[Garry Driffill]

Cheers mate, Im pretty pleased with it ;)

Yea It's perfect fit inside. Im running the none squared shell and it has plenty of room, the front of it is cemetrical either side until it reaches the intake where the motor lies..

[Al3xis007]

could you move the servo forward?? saves you having to add weight.

i didn't have to move mine and my mate's track power lipo fits

[Garry Driffill]

I looked at that and thought it would be easier to shift it over to the other side TBH. The LiPo im using was a tight fit however it did go in but chafed the servo leed which isnt what you want.

The way its set out now doesnt seem to be all that bad really - I think i'll keep it this way :)

[Fiddybux]

Awesome Gary. That looks really good.