wheel-adapters

[Lowie]

someone ones asked me if it was possible to mount Losi-wheels on the Pred.
He was very interested by the Predator but had lots of wheels from his Losi-car which obviously he wanted to keep.

Now, as we use wheel-disks I'm sure it must be possible to make some new disks which will fit Losi-style rims
But does anyone know about such wheel-adaptor/disks?

[KevLee]

someone ones asked me if it was possible to mount Losi-wheels on the Pred.
He was very interested by the Predator but had lots of wheels from his Losi-car which obviously he wanted to keep.

Now, as we use wheel-disks I'm sure it must be possible to make some new disks which will fit Losi-style rims
But does anyone know about such wheel-adaptor/disks?

I looked into this a while ago and it is possible, but not if you want to keep the same track width. Losi wheels are wider and therefore with the same track the wheel will rub on the upper ball joint on the rear.

[nitrokillah]

Hummm ... :cry:
I guess it won't make that much difference. as you would need to get new wheels & tires anyway ....

Love the Pred though . Tried Lowie's & it felt planted on the track way more then my s44 . :drool: it was a little nose heavy for me....
nothin' too dramatic just something I need to get used to .

need to have another go maybe at arendonk:rolleyes: ....;)

[feniks]

you can tray myne iff you want .

[KevLee]

it was a little nose heavy for me....
nothin' too dramatic just something I need to get used to .


With a stick lipo conversion you can shift the weight around as you please, so its easy to tune it to how you like. I run mine with an extra 35 gramms (20 under the shocks and 15 on the chassis spine). That comes out at about 1620 gramms with plastic chassis and wishbones.

[feniks]

With a stick lipo conversion you can shift the weight around as you please, so its easy to tune it to how you like. I run mine with an extra 35 gramms (20 under the shocks and 15 on the chassis spine). That comes out at about 1620 gramms with plastic chassis and wishbones.

hi kev
i run 30 grams under the chocks and 45 on the chassis spine and 10 on the outside of the chassis and this comes out tho 1650 with grafite chassis.
but my lippo is placed compleetle at the rear so daerfor 30 on the front.
is this a wize disizion

[MRD]

hi kev
i run 30 grams under the chocks and 45 on the chassis spine and 10 on the outside of the chassis and this comes out tho 1650 with grafite chassis.
but my lippo is placed compleetle at the rear so daerfor 30 on the front.
is this a wize disizion


Spelling overload, can... not... compute...... BANG! :lol:

[Lowie]

Spelling overload, can... not... compute...... BANG! :lol:

:mad: DON't!
Feniks is not English-speaking (as you could have seen on his LOCATION!!!)

Most of the time he is just reading because he knows his English is not OK .. but here he just wanted to help.
This kind of remarks might make him decide to not write any more ... and the guys DOES has something to tell.

[KevLee]

hi kev
i run 30 grams under the chocks and 45 on the chassis spine and 10 on the outside of the chassis and this comes out tho 1650 with grafite chassis.
but my lippo is placed compleetle at the rear so daerfor 30 on the front.
is this a wize disizion

Hi Feniks,

As your chassis is lighter you will need to run a bit more weight so thats sounds about right. I have tried the cells forward and back and settled with them as far forward as possible, and now never move them. With the car in stick layout it does pivot more into and mid corner, and thats becuase there is more weight at the rear than the saddle layout. I just found it was too much pivot and it would also give understeer on power with the cells back.

Try the cells forward and take 10 gramms out of the front. Put the rest of the weight on the spine centrally between the front and rear wheels and see what thats like (you can always go back to how you have it now if you don't like it)

What lipo are you running by the way and do you know how heavy?

[MRD]

:mad: DON't!
Feniks is not English-speaking (as you could have seen on his LOCATION!!!)

Most of the time he is just reading because he knows his English is not OK .. but here he just wanted to help.
This kind of remarks might make him decide to not write any more ... and the guys DOES has something to tell.

Sorry, my bad :blush:, I didn't notice the location. Sorry Feniks, no offence intended.

[feniks]

the 3200 20c about 190 grams
in the dirt the steering is great on astro indead somme understeer.
wil trai it this weekend thanks kev

[KevLee]

the 3200 20c about 190 grams
in the dirt the steering is great on astro indead somme understeer.
wil trai it this weekend thanks kev

With a pack of cells that light it might be worth running lead ontop or under the cells. I run Trakpower 4900's which weigh about 280g. I did run the 3600 originally and found a 60g strip of lead directly under the cells worked well. They are more slimline than the 4900's so they end up being roughly the same height with the lead.

I think if you just move the cells forward you will notice a big difference.

[Lowie]

totally off-topic but did you found the Trakpower-lipos compared with Orion-Lipos.
I do have an 4200 Trakpower and also an Orion 3800 and I found the Orion to be more stable, needing almost no balancing (once every 20 runs and then it only took about 10 seconds, as with the trakpower the balancer is always working for several minutes) ... AND the Trakpower loosing some capacity over time

[KevLee]

totally off-topic but did you found the Trakpower-lipos compared with Orion-Lipos.
I do have an 4200 Trakpower and also an Orion 3800 and I found the Orion to be more stable, needing almost no balancing (once every 20 runs and then it only took about 10 seconds, as with the trakpower the balancer is always working for several minutes) ... AND the Trakpower loosing some capacity over time

I've been running my Trakpower 4900's for about 4 months (1 in each car) and they never really come out, i just top them up in there. I top them up between heats on the trakpower charger with the balancer in-line and never really take any notice of what its doing so couldn't tell you how long its balancing for. I do know that my cars have never been slow and i have not noticed any drop in performance since running them. In 2wd i could probably do the entire qualifying runs on one charge.

I've not run orion lipo's so couldn't give you a comparison but can say that i really do not need any more power than i have!! :thumbsup:

[MRD]

We got two of the orion 4800 platinum lipo's when they first came out (probably over two years ago) and when I finaly got a lead that fitted them a few months ago it took seconds to ballance. I've used them in everything from bashing to racing and even had one on charge as a NiMH for 30mins by accident with no loss in performance. They use kokam cells which are apparently one of the best. highly recommended.

[feniks]

a go tho aarendonk tomorrow for a race on sunday so a lot of time than to
pracktis and test with the battery in diferent positions and also the lead .
thanks for the help kev

[HARASHU]

Sorry,My poor English.

I am using Losi Wheel(rear only).
Changed to tamiya TA04 hub,Duruga(TRF501X) rear axle and bone.

And Cut rear lower arm and ball-end to keep track width...

(4/6 Add parts List and photos)

rear wheel axle (BU2) 9804300
rear wheel washer(BP3) 9804305
(http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download/rcmanual/trf501x.pdf)
TA04 rear upright:http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=50869
70mm swing shaft:http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=9805979

lower sus-arm cut width =3mm
ball-end cut width =1mm

[Lowie]

Sorry,My poor English.

I am using Losi Wheel(rear only).
Changed to tamiya TA04 hub,Duruga(TRF501X) rear axle and bone.

And Cut rear lower arm and ball-end to keep track width...

well done, Mr Harashu.
nice mod :):thumbsup: