X6 squared

[ian h]

Guys, I plan on putting in an order on monday for the conversion kit. My donor car is an FT B4. What extra parts should i get? And should I go with LOSI shocks?

[mark christopher]

keep your associated shocks, works good out of the box, if you want to spend, parts id recomend, longer rear cvd axles, e speed hangers losi red pistons and if you want your lipo out quick get the quick release battery kit and 4 thumb screws

[matdodd]

Id say go for which ever shocks you happy working on, I much prefer the Losi ones as do most of the Team but I'm sure the AE ones will be fine. The ES001 camber link mod is the only thing id say you will need but there are a few things which are nice to have like:

ES002 Motor plate support
DMS124 Carbon anti squat shims
DMS133 Carbon motor plate
XF5660 Long rear drive shafts

Mat

[ian h]

Thanks guys, I will get all those bits and see how I go from there. Looking forward to getting this together. Will post a few pics soon.

[stegger]

Matt, when using the carbon fiber motor plate how is it supported ? are there inserts in the plate for the screws to go in too ?

[matdodd]

The screws just screw in to the carbon mate I just put a little ca on them

[stegger]

Cheers fella :)

[ian h]

Build pretty much complete, went quite well, with regard to the carbon anti squat shims, what angle is created by which shim? The set up I have gone with requires 4 deg. which shim is that? ie how many holes in the shim?

[Lee]

4 degrees on the squared is 0 shims.

I'm sure this is correct and someone will correct me if i am wrong

[ian h]

Cool thanks, will try no shims and take it from there.

[jono83]

that is correct. i think the shims have a hole in them to help identify them

ie 1 hole for one degree 2 holes for degree and so on

i could be wrong though as this is jus from memory

[Lee]

that is correct. i think the shims have a hole in them to help identify them

ie 1 hole for one degree 2 holes for degree and so on

i could be wrong though as this is jus from memory

This was the case with the pre-squared car but the rear end is slightly different now so where as 0 shims on the old car was approx 5 deg (i think) it is now 4, so the 4 holed shim would now be 3 and so on.

[jono83]

ah ok i dont have a squared yet so didnt realise the changes to the rear end had been made

[Darren Boyle]

Yep, Lee is correct (:woot:) the new car is slighly different, each shim now is one hole "more" than the anti-squat it delivers on the new "X6 Sq" car, ie 4 holes is now 3 degree, 3 holes is now 2 degree, no shim is in fact now 4 degrees.

We have contemplated changing the markings but that would then cause confusion in whether you have a "new" shim or "old" shim, so we have kept the current batch the same for this reason alone.

[Lee]

Yep, Lee is correct (:woot:)

You sound surprised :lol:

Oh Darren, top gear girl is no more :D

[ian h]

Thanks guys, I get it now. Maybe a set up sheet could be supplied with the shims?

[Darren Boyle]

Oh Darren, top gear girl is no more :D

Why am I not surprised to hear that.......;)

[Darren Boyle]

Thanks guys, I get it now. Maybe a set up sheet could be supplied with the shims?
Maybe be somthing we can look at once the current batch sells out, but we have only recently had a fresh batch done, which are all packaged up and ready to go so it wont be real soon.

[jono83]

The current batch is compatable with the non squared right?

[Mike Hudson]

The current batch is compatable with the non squared right?
they are fine with either car you just have to do the math with the squared ;)

[Darren Boyle]

they are fine with either car you just have to do the math with the squared ;) Very good Mike :lol:

[Lee]

Why am I not surprised to hear that.......;)


Because i couldn't tell the difference when it was dark :lol:

[ian h]

Build finished, all weighted, balanced and good to go. Looks an awesome car, can't wait to get it on the track tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys.

[ian h]

Ran car for first time today. Like it a lot. As a matter of interest what cells are people running?

[Darren Boyle]

Most of our team drivers either use the Vampire Racing 5200 30C (Tom, Dan, Mat and Myself) or some of the others use the LRP 5300 28C (Ellis and Phil), but most popular makes will fit and work well.

[super__dan]

Ran car for first time today. Like it a lot. As a matter of interest what cells are people running?

Hugely recomend the Vampire ones, just ran them repeatedly at Belgium for 4 days without a single problem and **** load of power.

[gnr racer]

Hi, got to the latter part of building my x6 sq earlier & have come across the 'rear drive shaft problem', I have searched on here & have just got my self confused in all honesty. am i right in saying that if i want to run the standard B4 rear shafts without having any shaft popping out issues i need to NOT use any shims under the gearbox, & i would need to run zero droop at the rear, ie- no spaces under.
also i noticed if i hold the both diff out drives, there is quite a bit of side ways movement, is this normal?
thanks for any advice.

[Body Paint]

Our UK setup uses no washers under the Gearbox anyway, so take the washers out ;)

I'll have a look for my Caldicot indoor setup and post it later on.

If you want to be able to use any amount of rear droop then you will need the optional X-6 rear axles, which push the driveshaft further into the Diff outdrives (parts available from Trackside Spares)

If you keep the B4 axles then you either have to use the outer hole on the wishbone, or use internal limiters in the rear shocks to use the middle hole of the wishbones.

Not sure what you mean by sideways movement of the outdrive?? Do you mean the whole diff moves left to right? I have added a couple of shims to mine to reduce this, but as it is only a small amount most people don't bother. You do need a small amount of 'float' or the bearings will bind.

[Body Paint]

Here is my setup for caldicot

[gnr racer]

Here is my setup for caldicot
Thank you for the advice Mr H :D. Suppose i may be being a little paranoid after running a Losi xxx4 (before people jump on & big up the xxx in its defence, im sure i just had a neglected example :eh?:)
yes i did meen the complete diff moves from side to side, but with a fresh head this morning it doesnt seem to be too bad. just hope i havent gone to quick with my choice of 7.5 'ballistic' motor:blush: . . .can i make a request for a gravel trap or two laid out Friday night?? Mr Knights cash till could well be ringing Friday night :cry:

[fastinfastout]

ive got the longer xfactory axle, and it doesnt come with a spacer. I have searched and found that LOSA3016 - Team Losi Axle Spacer (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/15094)
would do the trick, but will order that.

but in the mean time, can I use a b4 front wheel bearing as a spacer?

the bearing seems to be a tight fit with hardly any lateral movement. I'm assuming its nice to have very minimal but some play.

Just in the final stages of the build

[hottuna]

I bought the Losi spacers, but they are to thin (if you don't want to add more shims which i find unnecessary work) I use a third wheel bearing and 2 B4 stock shims on the outside, and it fits perfect.

[jono83]

I bought the Losi spacers, but they are to thin (if you don't want to add more shims which i find unnecessary work) I use a third wheel bearing and 2 B4 stock shims on the outside, and it fits perfect.
Me too and its perfect

[fastinfastout]

perfect!

wheel bearing as a spacer it will remain

[blue_pinky]

The losi spacer onm it's own does the job perfectly for me...but I think the bearings are actually the same width as the spacer, so either should work really!

[fastinfastout]

what limiters are people running?

Ive got too much binding in the cvd from too much droop.



Also, what's a good set up for rutted tracks?

[Lee]

An old skool motor spring has the correct width when you cut off the long bits and slide it over :thumbsup:

[Body Paint]

ive got the longer xfactory axle, and it doesnt come with a spacer. I have searched and found that LOSA3016 - Team Losi Axle Spacer (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/15094)
would do the trick, but will order that.

but in the mean time, can I use a b4 front wheel bearing as a spacer?

the bearing seems to be a tight fit with hardly any lateral movement. I'm assuming its nice to have very minimal but some play.

Just in the final stages of the build

You are still using the B4 blue aluminium spacer between the wheel and the hub bearing aren't you?

I can't quite see how you can use a B4 front wheel bearing and still keep the spacer on the outside?? Surely you have made the car about 5mm narrower???

[Body Paint]

what limiters are people running?

Ive got too much binding in the cvd from too much droop.



Also, what's a good set up for rutted tracks?

If you have the correct length shocks you need no limiters inside the shocks.

Use the generic Ellis Stafford setup just about everywhere.

[fastinfastout]

You are still using the B4 blue aluminium spacer between the wheel and the hub bearing aren't you?

I can't quite see how you can use a B4 front wheel bearing and still keep the spacer on the outside?? Surely you have made the car about 5mm narrower???
yes I am still using the B4 blue aluminium spacer between wheel and hub.

otherwise I would need to put a tonne of washers to shim it correctly!

If you have the correct length shocks you need no limiters inside the shocks.

Use the generic Ellis Stafford setup just about everywhere.
I'm using the short velvet rear shocks off the RB5, which is exactly the same length as the B4's.

I was thinking of using the kyosho's cos they are so smooth.

I will put my CR shocks on to see if its any better.


Is the Stafford set up good for low traction outdoor?

[Body Paint]

Remove the rear roll bar, go to 25 weight rear oil and add a bit of weight under the Lipo and you'll be bang on :thumbsup:

[YoungChazz]

There are lots of low-bite dirt set-ups on the new www.xfactoryrc.com web site. Click on the X - 6 Squared box and go to Tech, then set-up sheets.

Set-ups from U.S. drivers Brian, Dan, Paul, and Nick all work under different conditions. Of course these are all for dirt tracks. Dirt and grass/astro set-ups are far different. The U.K. Boyz are all running weight while the dirt-trackers are running light.

We hope to get up today or tomorrow the new "standard" Kit set-ups which are now included in every Kit. The buggy has two set-ups we strongly reccommend as the starting point no matter where you are. One for grass/astro and one for dirt. The truck has just one, for dirt.

These new standard set-ups will be at the top of the set-up page. 99% of the time, Team drivers are within a washer or two of thse. If the standard set-up is not working for you, it's probably tires.

[fastinfastout]

I'm a little confused about the antisquat on the X6.

Coming from the B4, the shims are added to the 'forward' side of the rear arm mount. (forward side of hinge pin higher)

But the X6, you put shims to the 'rear', on the toe in block. (rear side of hinge pin higher)

Doesnt this create 'pro-squat', the opposite of antisquat?

[Body Paint]

No.

If you remove all the shims on an X6 Sq you will have 4 degrees of anti squat. If you put 4mm of shims in the X6 Sq you will have zero degrees anti squat.

Only if you put more than 4mm of spacers in the X6 Sq will you get pro squat.

[YoungChazz]

The big thing is that you can change it easily & quickly. If you've got the D.M.S. CF shims, you don't even have to pull the two bottom bolts! 60 seconds or less...

[fastinfastout]

No.

If you remove all the shims on an X6 Sq you will have 4 degrees of anti squat. If you put 4mm of shims in the X6 Sq you will have zero degrees anti squat.

Only if you put more than 4mm of spacers in the X6 Sq will you get pro squat.

ahh......

that makes sense now.

I dont recall seeing anything in the conversion manual about that, or I may have skipped it.

So what I thought I had 0 degrees antisquat, I now know I have 4 degrees, which is how I like it at the moment. Turns nicely with 4 degrees, for me!

[Body Paint]

Try experimenting with a little less anti squat, especially on high bite tracks. I find my X6 squared jumps lower and flatter with less anti squat, it also feels faster through the tight turns :thumbsup: I am now running 2 degrees of anti squat.

[fastinfastout]

Yeh I tried less antisquat, but with more antisquat its turning in slightly slower, but holds its line alot tighter mid turn.

[fastinfastout]

Can someone explain to me about the adjustment of transmission height please?

I cannot think of a reason to want to set up the car other then driveshafts running completely horizontal. This is the most efficient method for setting up ride height, is it not?

[jono83]

The adjustment is there to change handling characteristics mainly where the dog bone makes contact withe the outdrive. Raising or lowering the gearbox adjusts the amount of forward drive and the amount of side bite. raisnng it will give more forward drive and less side bite lowering it will give less forward traction and more side bite. well in theory anyway lol

hth

jono

[YoungChazz]

The Team is experimenting more and more with tranny height. It's one of those things where in previous cars we could not play with it easily so when we began with the X Cars it was not a familiar thing to adjust.

As we've gotten more comfortable with the car we're finding out that tranny height can make a big difference in lots of things. Yes, the grass/astro standard set-up is zero, but that's after some experimentation in those special conditions.

The standard set-up for everyplace else is 0.060" and the Kinwald set-up is 0.090". One of the few things Brian changed between Omaha and Hot Rod was tranny height.

[fastinfastout]

whats the antisquat for the US starting set up?

[hottuna]

I raised the tranny in my last race on slippery gravel track, and i got much more forward traction. Didn't notice any less side bite. Definitely a setup to play with!