I just want to say..........

[ashleyb4]

When i first thought about 4wd i dismissed the xx4 as old and slow.....

Well i take it back this car is amazing i have raced it a few times now and it is amazing it handels amazingly its really nice to drive and its easy to find a setup for. And it looks Super Cool i really wanted to do better than i did at the inddor finals as i was troubled with motor problems for round 1 and round 2. But round 3 it was a amazing to drive i had laods of grip and the car was performing amazingly. Then round 4 again it was going really well until i had a meeting with the wall but that was my thumbs.

Well the meaning of this thread is just to say WOW what a fantastic car it is getting old now but it is still very competative and when they designed this car they broke the mold. Also it is to say if anyone is having doubts about a 4wd get a xx4.;)

A:p

[greyfox]

I couldn't agree more with your comments.

After coming back from a eleven year lay-off from racing and a subsequent four years of being in touring cars, I plucked up courage and bought an XX4 from a well-known auction site. Set it up from a sheet I got from elsewhere on this forum and raced it for the first time yesterday at one of our local tracks in their club championship.
It handled superbly, was reliable all day and competitive right from the off. Ended up qualifying 4th in the A final and finished 3rd overall
Can't fault the car in any way, and am looking forward to a rewarding seasons racing this year with what seems like a damned fine car!

[losixxx]

amazing was it ash

[ashleyb4]

Yea when it was going. But the problem was a fault motor at the start and i did ok in the final i think i could have done better if i had had more track time as i only finished one race.

A

[bigred5765]

Remember all u xx4 nuts myself included, dont run the slipper to tight,as tight slipper equals snapped belts, apart from that yeh they are ace

[Fiddybux]

Does anyone else have a problem with turning circle on the XX4 though?

Mine corners badly, usually very wide. I can do a few things to improve it, like lay the front shocks in and the back ones out, but this only makes a slight difference.

I have a one-way clicker installed which is supposed to help steering. Trouble is that it doesn't help me that much (god knows what it's like without it!) and it does really affect my braking which is practically non existent.

Cheers.

[_sleigh_]

What set-up have you got on the steering bellcranks?? i.e which holes are you running, and which link between them??

[Fiddybux]

I'm running on the two outer most positions, the same as illusrtated on the oople review pages.

As for the length of the linkage between, I think its the standard one - kind of a mottled grey/silver colour.

[bigred5765]

we had a problem like that , it was the steering bellcrank fouling on the centre drive belt casing,we put new ball joints in and they were to long

[PaulRotheram]

Russ, your tyres and dodgy set up will have a big effect on your problems! Last time i saw your car you were running orange front spring, yellow rear with standard tyres?

throw a pair of yellow schumy spikes on all round, red rear spring, silver front. blue rear piston, orange front, 30 weight oil rear, 40 weight front and youl be sorted.

Don't cut corners with it if you want it to work, do the above and ill gurantee it'l be spot on.

[Fiddybux]

I noticed some time ago that the ball cup was fouling on the casing at the front, so I've shaved the corners off the ball cup to square it off and this has solved that issue.

Interestingly, and slightly off topic, I noticed that the rear drive shafts were also catching on the outdrive cases when set on the inner most position on the suspension arms...couldn't see a way around this other than to move them out the the farthest point on the suspension arms. This might account for how I ripped one of the rear pivot blocks out at York Finals last Sunday. Had to bail out of the final because of that :(.

Thanks for the tips there Paul mate...I will definitely give that a go...or as close as given the springs and pistons I have right now. But next time I do a big order I'll get in what I don't have as per your suggestions.

[Col]

That set-up Paul mentioned is spot on. That's exactly how mine is set-up and the car turns in superbly. About the clicker, you can get an uprated one which still clicks, but is much stiffer than std (or you can do what I have done and just put 2 std springs in and tighten it until it won't go no more...) Ifound this gives superb braking in both straight lines and turning in, but without making it twitchy like it is without the clicker.

[greyfox]

That set-up Paul mentioned is spot on. That's exactly how mine is set-up and the car turns in superbly. About the clicker, you can get an uprated one which still clicks, but is much stiffer than std (or you can do what I have done and just put 2 std springs in and tighten it until it won't go no more...) Ifound this gives superb braking in both straight lines and turning in, but without making it twitchy like it is without the clicker.

I run the exact same set up, but with 20W oil in the front and 35W in the rear, and it handles perfectly.

Where do you get this up-rated clicker from?

[Col]

It's not in my car, but I think it came from either apex or DC racing. However, it was not in stock and needed to be ordered which is why I tried my 2 spring approch which feels and drives exactly the same as the uprated clicker (and cost less...):)

[Fiddybux]

Hey guys...thanks for chipping in on this.

I've got some 2" silver springs for the front and 2.5" red springs for the rear...but currently I have 2.75" yellow springs on the rear.

Will these 2.5" red rear springs suffice...or do I need 2.75" ones?

What's this difference anyway? Is it just ride height?

I'm sure I can find those blue rear piston and orange front piston somewhere...I seem to have lots of them kicking about.

Thanks.

[ashleyb4]

Yea someof the prings are slighly diffrent sizes but they are the right ones.

A