Ultima RB5 setup discussion

[jimmy]

Sticky thread for RB5 setup discussion - please try to keep the Setup thread for posting setups only :)

[BREEZER]

Hi Jimmy&Woodsy,Thanks for you great reveiw as always,could you please post a set up for racing on grass with one or two jumps plus a very small bit of tarmac.I am just building theRB5 at presant I intend fitting carbon diff &thrust balls any other mods as I build, will have JR8235 servo MRT speedo checkpoint 12\2 or moneypoint depending on track etc, advice needed urgent, keep up the good work,TEAM OOPLEyou are super stars to the likes of me.
:o MARTIN:mad:

[woOdy]

For the guys that ran at Bury today please let me know how your cars where? I would love to know and may be we all might be able to get nearer to that goal we all want. Thanks.

[telboy]

I stood the front shocks up (because I couldn't be arsed to change the oil) and shortened the front arms like you said, and it was much more responsive, yet more forgiving on the faster stuff (like the hill in the middle of the track).:)

[bender]

I'm surprised that there hasn't been much activity on this thread :o

I finally got to race mine on the weekend at my local track and unfortunately the performance of the car wasn't as great as I'd hoped.

It seemed to handle well and had plenty of on-power grip but the car really had a lot of off-power oversteer - basically as soon as you back off the throttle it just pivoted on the front end.

I'm hoping that it was due to having too soft tyres on the front because anything I adjusted only made a minor difference.

I only have 1 set of front rims, hence I couldn't try any other tyres.

This was on a mildly bumpy, low grip loose dirt track.

Hopefully i can get some more rims in time for the next raceday.

[Colinevan]

well, iv ran mine for 2 race meetings now, and to be honest i dont know how to set a car up or indeed what i need to do to make a car behave how i want...

However i have experimented with the shocks, heres what i found....

I originally didnt have any spare springs, so i decided to use 50wt oil and std springs, the car was very safe and jumped ok, however it had no low speed steering and really pushed wide on the slightest hint of power.

I then acquired some genuine Kyosho lime green springs that were 1 grade higher than the stocks, i dropped the weight of oil all around to 35, and the car was immediately better but oversteered on grass and on tarmac, the back end would just snap back off throttle. To reduce the steering i tried losi black springs at the front. These ideally needed cuting down as they were too long, but i thought id give it a go. The car was indeed better, it understeered on power but could quite easily be driven around Southport. The car also jumped really well and went over the rear bumpy part with ease.

I will in future cut the springs down and also try Losi blues.

Hope this helps anyone.

Col.

[Colinevan]

Just to update, for those that dont know ....Southport is an astro track with grass and tarmac, it is also quite bumpy in places :cool: and has a range of small jumps just to catch you out lol.

I also ran full 2wd yellow minispikes all around ( uncut ) , I will also try the Kyosho yellow limey green springs with the outside row of spikes cut off too see if that helps with the cars snap back off power attitude.

Col.

[telboy]

I've been running 35wt front and 30wt rear oil.
first with the kit springs and the car felt planted on grass, tarmac, astro etc.
a slight hint of understeer on tarmac/concrete with the back end kicking out only on dusty sections, but that is mainly down to car control (and a 8x2 motor) more than set up.

Changing to associated blue fronts and silver rear helped get more ride height as the kit springs limit the ride height due to the fact that the threads on the bodies only go half way down the shock. other wise I would've stuck with the kit springs.

I'm still experimenting with the diff and the slipper, so any help from more experienced drivers would be helpful. I cant tel (on track) if its the diff slipping or the slipper. I think at the moment, I may have too much slip on the diff.

other than that i'm finding it a nice car to race with (what i think) a more comfortable feel than the B4.

[woOdy]

Guys, I have been testing today and i think i have found it? my RB5 felt like a B4. WOW. I have been playing with pistons and oils. I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO excited. I still have an issue with the wheel base but WOW. Guys please come over next weekend and have a chat. If anyone is coming. :D :D :D

[pro4nut]

Please tell....

[jim76]

Please tell....

ditto!!

spill the beans!

[woOdy]

ditto!!

spill the beans!


Just wait till this weekend so I can proove it. The all will come clear.;)

[MK999]

He's put a kyosho shell on a B4 :p :D

[woOdy]

He's put a kyosho shell on a B4 :p :D

It was very close to that, but after a few changes it did feel like a B4.

[MK999]

shell AND wing then? :confused: :D

[telboy]

well? any news on what it was?


......ahh, I think I know.

[Colinevan]

Hmmm, well iv stuck with losi balck springs (front) and now that the rear tyres have worn (quite a lot lol) the car is getting there, considering that the rear tyres have worn out , it still generates quite a lot of grip.

I also experimented and used an old zx5 wing that i have which has had the back flap cut right out ( less downforce ) i was surprised by how much this imprroved things.

Col.

[Colinevan]

Aww do tell Stu.

:D

[Stu]

Guys, I have been testing today and i think i have found it? my RB5 felt like a B4. WOW. I have been playing with pistons and oils. I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO excited. I still have an issue with the wheel base but WOW. Guys please come over next weekend and have a chat. If anyone is coming. :D :D :D

Where did you go Stu - we were expecting you at Southport for the GP - you missed a good day.

[woOdy]

Where did you go Stu - we were expecting you at Southport for the GP - you missed a good day.


I have a track in the back garden. I didnt come to Southport due to I have one week left for the Nat and I need to get it perfect so spent the day down there painting.

[Stu]

Painting the red?

Or un-painting the amusing graffiti?

[Northy]

I have a track in the back garden. I didnt come to Southport due to I have one week left for the Nat and I need to get it perfect so spent the day down there painting.

WOW Woody, a track in your back garden :o :o I would love that. I don't even have a track within a sensible distance of me that I can practise on. I'd only be able to make a very little one in our garden, and I don't think Marshal (my rabbit) would really like to share the grass with my Pred! :D :D :D

Got any pics? :confused: :confused:

[telboy]

Haha, thats ironic, a rabbit called MARSHAL! :D

You wouldn't be out of place then if you crashed. just call its name and it'll come hopping along and turn your car back over.:D

[Stu]

Naaaa, he'd be too busy giving Julie's slippers a right good seeing-to, again.

[DaveG28]

Hi all,

not sure if this si the right forum for this but it is kind of set up related!?

I was wondering what are suitbale motors to run in the car. I have been using a revolution jansen edition 9x1, and although its a rocket I am killing the motor through overheating. Do any of you know any tricks for trying to keep the temp down a bit (maybe some suggested gearing? I am using 22 pinion with kit spur), or whether there are any heatsinks that will fit (I have not found any)??

Loving the car though, finished 12th at Southport GP I think, and thanks to some broken shocks that was with traxxas trx3 front dampers on the car!

Cheers,

Dave

[woOdy]

Hi all,

not sure if this si the right forum for this but it is kind of set up related!?

I was wondering what are suitbale motors to run in the car. I have been using a revolution jansen edition 9x1, and although its a rocket I am killing the motor through overheating. Do any of you know any tricks for trying to keep the temp down a bit (maybe some suggested gearing? I am using 22 pinion with kit spur), or whether there are any heatsinks that will fit (I have not found any)??

Loving the car though, finished 12th at Southport GP I think, and thanks to some broken shocks that was with traxxas trx3 front dampers on the car!

Cheers,

Dave


Dood! you are well over geared. you should be running about an 17/18 pinion for that motor.

[telboy]

out of curiosity, what gearing would you reccomend for a 8x2?

you know I'm crazy.:wtf: its what I'v been running, but I'd just like some idea of gearing. just make sure I'm getting it right.:rolleyes:

[jimmy]

8 turn! you nutter!:D

[BREEZER]

Hi STU, YOU are doing wonders with your RB5, could you please give a ball park set up for my car to run on grass. the problem is I race in ABERDEEN and work in LONDON and only have race day to set up car. So your advice is urgently required. Will put ATOMIC CARBON towers on when available thanks MARTIN.

P/S have got a 501X also.

Good luck on beeing a farther.

[BREEZER]

Sorry STU, Could you please tell me what springs to get so I can order them for next sunday. MARTIN

[telboy]

8 turn! you nutter!:D

yep, thats me!!

It's not to bad actually, got things turn down on the tranny though to smooth it out.;)

[woOdy]

Hi STU, YOU are doing wonders with your RB5, could you please give a ball park set up for my car to run on grass. the problem is I race in ABERDEEN and work in LONDON and only have race day to set up car. So your advice is urgently required. Will put ATOMIC CARBON towers on when available thanks MARTIN.

P/S have got a 501X also.

Good luck on beeing a farther.

Hi Martin.just a quick one as there is a full set up coming. Losi pink springs on the rear and Losi blue on the front. If it is flat gras maybe go to red Losi springs on the rear. This is a must but a lot of weight in the front, I have a brass bulk head which is about 75g. You do have to cut the front springs to fit. Please be patient as there is going to be a full report adn set up coming very soon. Keep going dood and hope you enjoy it. Good luck.

[pro4nut]

Got my RB5 working well today using Kyosho springs and kit only parts. Sadly i am not the best of drivers, but the car was tried by a better driver than myself and the feedback from those watching was positive, was actually 13th in round after round 1 and finished 10 places above my last regional 2wd finish and got my best 2wd finish of the year so far. If interested i wil do a proper set up sheet, Jim76 on the forum also ran his car to a 10th in the A finish which was his best result this year in 2wd first time out with the car, with a very similar set up to mine.

[woOdy]

Got my RB5 working well today using Kyosho springs and kit only parts. Sadly i am not the best of drivers, but the car was tried by a better driver than myself and the feedback from those watching was positive, was actually 13th in round after round 1 and finished 10 places above my last regional 2wd finish and got my best 2wd finish of the year so far. If interested i wil do a proper set up sheet, Jim76 on the forum also ran his car to a 10th in the A finish which was his best result this year in 2wd first time out with the car, with a very similar set up to mine.

Well done guys. Keep up the hard work and I hope to have a set up for mine very soon. Trust me it is coming.:D

[jim76]

yeah, had a good day today. First time out with the car. Put 30g lead in the nose, atomic shock towers and ceramic balls. Started on kit springs on the grass track. Had awesome amounts of front end, the car was really quick through the chicane section. Was a bit of a handful to get the power down so went to a softer rear spring which helped a bit but was still a bit power slidey. Wasn't helped by the fact i forgot my rear rims so ran all day on one set of already worn yellows!
Managed to stick it A10 in the last round beating the likes of Nigel Buck and Paul Timberlake so was delighted.

[woOdy]

yeah, had a good day today. First time out with the car. Put 30g lead in the nose, atomic shock towers and ceramic balls. Started on kit springs on the grass track. Had awesome amounts of front end, the car was really quick through the chicane section. Was a bit of a handful to get the power down so went to a softer rear spring which helped a bit but was still a bit power slidey. Wasn't helped by the fact i forgot my rear rims so ran all day on one set of already worn yellows!
Managed to stick it A10 in the last round beating the likes of Nigel Buck and Paul Timberlake so was delighted.

Well done Jim. What do u think of it REALLY?

[telboy]

I didn't get the chance to run the A.C. shock towers this weekend as looked out of the window, saw the rain and fog (and not much else!) I decided to stay warm in bed on sat morning instead of going to race. Wish I hadn't though as they had a pretty good day for weather.:rolleyes:

I'll give 'em a good thrashing at york though.;)

[jim76]

Well done Jim. What do u think of it REALLY?

cheers Woody. What do you mean what i think of it REALLY?! compared to my old B4 i couldn't complain at all. Don't think i would have been quicker with the B4, in fact the front end of the RB5 felt much sharper.

In fairness Waynes (pro4nut) car handled better than mine when we swapped in practice. His rear end was very stable but still responsive up front. I think ultimately mine was quicker round the track as i could get the back end round easier, it was just much harder to keep in line for 5 minutes compared to his.

i did have a front wing on mine that i knocked up quickly because everyone was saying the car has a tendancy to understeer. i didn't actually run with out this for a comparison of it's affect.

[ThePromise]

Hello everyone,

I was just wondering if there are any news about the Atomic Carbon shock mounts?
Are they available yet?

Best regards,
Chris

[Butters]

You can just email atomic and they can make a set for you.

Also im not sure how many know but the Roar Electric Offroad Nationals were over the weekend. Team Kyosho had a very strong showing. In 2wd stock i think it was 4 cars in the a-main. Joe Pillars took the 2wd 19turn title with his new RB5. There were 5 Kyosho cars in that a-main. And finally Ryan Lutz placed 6th in 2wd Mod with his RB5.

[jim76]

Nice. If it starts getting regular A finals around the world it will hopefully become more popular and threaten he Associated/Losi dominance.

I can't see it breaking through in this country in a big way until Kyosho put forward a proper team of drivers. Shame as the car is awesome. Hopefully Woodys efforts will make Kyosho realise that it can compeat on UK tracks and convince them to run a small team next year.

[jimmy]

The ROAR results are good, but I was surprised how small the US Nationals are - only a few heats of drivers, maybe 4 heats, so 40 drivers?. Woody did it against 130 drivers.
I think Stu has shown the car is absolutely competitive. The changes he's made to the setup have really paid off. No matter what we do though, I think without Kyosho pushing the car from their end it will be hard to make a big impact

[woOdy]

Big UP to the guys in the Satates though.:D

[SimonW]

Hi Guys,
Just been lookin' at the thread and having just looked at the reviews for this car in the 'mags' I have noticed something quite odd. The 'mags' reviews both say that they run 2b front and 2c rear pistons, ITS WRONG 2c pistons have smaller holes than the 2b's so the C's should be on the front ask any ZX5 owner, unless of course kyosho swapped the letters round for the rb5 pistons either deliberately or by accident(printing error). If I am right (please god) then put the 2c's in the front and the 2b's in the rear(drill the 2b pistons holes both to 1.5mm and don't touch the fronts) and run 35wt front oil and 30wt rear. Much appreciate it if someone would try it and see cos mine will be here soon

HTH Simon

[woOdy]

Hi Guys,
Just been lookin' at the thread and having just looked at the reviews for this car in the 'mags' I have noticed something quite odd. The 'mags' reviews both say that they run 2b front and 2c rear pistons, ITS WRONG 2c pistons have smaller holes than the 2b's so the C's should be on the front ask any ZX5 owner, unless of course kyosho swapped the letters round for the rb5 pistons either deliberately or by accident(printing error). If I am right (please god) then put the 2c's in the front and the 2b's in the rear(drill the 2b pistons holes both to 1.5mm and don't touch the fronts) and run 35wt front oil and 30wt rear. Much appreciate it if someone would try it and see cos mine will be here soon

HTH Simon

Hi Simon, yes you are right but the set up you have would be too soft and the car will roll too much on the front and this will cause major power understeer. Drilling out pistons has been a good idea on cars that need it like YOK BC but the options available DO work if you find it. We at oOple have spent alot of time playing and we do think ours work as good as anything else.

[jim76]

Am i missing something Woody? Have you actually posted your new found set up on here? Don't remember seeing it!

[RogerM]

Would be very interested to see this set-up also. Looking for a good base set-up.

Any chance somebody with it could post it up either in words or on a sheet?

[jim76]

good luck Roger. i've asked a dozen times! see the other thread for "support the car"

luckily i'm happy with the way mine handles currently.

[RogerM]

So then Jim ...... why not share your base set-up with me ;)

[Arn0]

Would be very interested to see this set-up also. Looking for a good base set-up.

Any chance somebody with it could post it up either in words or on a sheet?
If not already done, look here: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3511, post#9 will give you some ideas!

[RogerM]

Thanks for the link, however I'd already looked at most of the setups on there.

Shame there is no grass / astro set-ups there .... very different characteristics to even the highest traction dirt tracks due to the balance between forward and lateral traction / grip.

[Arn0]

Give a look @ those two setups on the same page as above:
23/09/2007
Arnaud Collet
Julien Pulicari
Regional - Maison Alfort
Carpet

It is mentioned carpet but this an outside track with a bit of pavement, tarmac and some thing close to carpet or astro as seen on a pic once. A frenchman might confirm you the exact composition of the track.

For setup on UK track, there is Stu Wood to ask for!

[caneye]

is there any videos out there on carpet or grass-racing?

interested to see how things are like ..

[RogerM]

thanks for the info Arno ... might well be very usefully.

[dgrobe2112]

ok guys.. i come from 1/8 offroad.. and run kyosho 777 buggy, and STRR.. anyway... got me a RB5 as well.. wondering if you guys can help me out here.. i am running the stock rear setup.. as far as arms and such go.. here is my delima.. i am having trouble getting on the gas.. or power.. not gas.. but.. the rear of the car is looose looooooose.. i tried different tires.. and just seemed i couldnt get on the power as early as the others.. maybe its just me, and wanting to drive like a maniac like i do with my 1/8.. i workin on throttle control.. but in the main.. they wet the track, and the car was pretty hooked.. and i was considerable faster.. used to run 2wd back in the day.. maybe its just me.. but is there something i can do to my setup.. to lock in the rear more.. here it is... hack away at it..

[bender]

Dgrobe2112, from looking at your setup I would say firstly change rear tyres to Proline Holeshots as from your track description they should work better (if not make sure you are using what the fast guys run).

Secondly I'd run the rear shock on the inside hole in the rear arm and maybe a stiffer front spring. Overall though your setup seems ok.

From your track description I'd say you run on a similar surface to me and my current setup seems pretty good so PM me your email address and I'll send it to you (the file size is too big to upload here).

[RogerM]

The way it puts the power down is one of the most positive features of the RB5 so I am unsure why your having a problem. Going from gas to electric (as I have recently) does force you to think hard about your throttle control, especially in 2wd.

The advice about tires above is a good point .... tires are about 85-90% of a good set-up!

[RogerM]

Ok ..... I've looked at your set-up properly now .....

On the front, use the inner hole on the wishbone, inner hole on the front upright, inside on the bulkhead with no washers under the inner ball stud (this will calm the car down a bit ..... you can easily have too much steering on a 2wd car!!!)

On the rear, inner hole on wishbone again and set the rear link to the longest combination, 2mm under out ballstud.

The other thing that jumps out at me is the 3B pistons ..... I found the car worked much better if it is a little more free in it's movement. Based on that I'd say if the above doesn't help then try 2C pistons in the front and 2B pistons in the rear!

Let me know if you need anything else, just be sure you can describe exactly what the car is doing when and also what inputs you as the driver are giving it and the feedback from the track surface too.

[dgrobe2112]

thanks guys.. gonna try some different stuff.. i didnt have a whole lot of time to try to change things, as it was just a club race.. but the car was hooked up in the main, when they wet the track..

there was a dusty surface on top during the heat races.. which i beleive wouild have made it worse with holeshots.. i think.. unless i am wrong in my thinkin..

[bender]

there was a dusty surface on top during the heat races.. which i beleive wouild have made it worse with holeshots.. i think.. unless i am wrong in my thinkin..

As long as it's a fairly hard dirt surface Holeshots will work even if the track is a bit dusty or sandy on top. Otherwise Bowties work well in these conditions but whilst they provide good forward bite, they don't have the side-bite of holeshots.

[RogerM]

I have just got back from a day of experimentation at the Kidderminster track. I just want to share with you all a very hard learned lesson ....... You can't get the RB5 any better balanced on Astro truf than the set-up I have posted up for Coventry.

I tried this, that and every chuffing thing to improve it today and everything I did made the car slower or harder to drive!

Put the now generic Astroturf set-up on the car for the final (we won't discuss which one ... other than to say no the A) and all was well again.

Link to the set-up

http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii250/Roger_Mills/RB5_Cov_Feb08.jpg

Only thing I changed were tires to suit the conditions today

Schumy green slim mini-spikes on the front, full

Ballistic green mini-spikes on the rear, full

I hope this helps somebody else not have as frustrating day as I did today.

As an aside I tried a different motor (swapped bonded rotor for sintered) after the meeting and a couple of different speedo settings (turned up power profile and reduced drag brakes) and I found that the above set-up could stand a lot more abuse than I have been throwing at it with my original motor / speedo. So I guess lesson 2 is don't be frightened to push the car hard.

[pete68]

hi guy's looking to get a rb5
what is the spares parts i need
and comparing to the b4 what r your opinion !!
thanks
pete68

[RogerM]

Pete68,

Spares are easy, arms, front castor blocks /knuckles and rear uprights .... that's about it. The car is near bomb proof.

You should carry a few spares though as the car is a little less popular (yet) than the B4 it's a little more difficult to find somebody trackside to yet stuff off in an emergency. I'll get you part numbers latter.

I would also go for the proline rear axle conversion so you can use B4 / Losi wheels, just makes it easer to get trackside again. The car is really easy on front tires so that is much less of an issue.

The car is a lot more consistent lap to lap than a B4, everybody I know who has switched to the RB5 agrees.
The RB5 is much easier to drive than a B4 too, think of it as having all the best characteristics of the B4 and XXX-CR built in to one car.

Trust me you won't be disappointed.

As far as set-ups are concerned your going to want at least three springs front and rear

front

#65 yellow
#70 silver (ZX5 kit NOT RB5 kit .... which are #35)
#75 light green

rear

#65 yellow
#70 silver (kit)
#75 light green

I would try and get #68 blue and #72 cobalt blue too.

I'm always happy to help and advise on this car (and the ZX5-SP) but please post in the main forums rather than PMs so everybody can see the answers.

Enjoy the RB5 .....

[pete68]

Pete68,

Spares are easy, arms, front castor blocks /knuckles and rear uprights .... that's about it. The car is near bomb proof.

You should carry a few spares though as the car is a little less popular (yet) than the B4 it's a little more difficult to find somebody trackside to yet stuff off in an emergency. I'll get you part numbers latter.

I would also go for the proline rear axle conversion so you can use B4 / Losi wheels, just makes it easer to get trackside again. The car is really easy on front tires so that is much less of an issue.

The car is a lot more consistent lap to lap than a B4, everybody I know who has switched to the RB5 agrees.
The RB5 is much easier to drive than a B4 too, think of it as having all the best characteristics of the B4 and XXX-CR built in to one car.

Trust me you won't be disappointed.

As far as set-ups are concerned your going to want at least three springs front and rear

front

#65 yellow
#70 silver (ZX5 kit NOT RB5 kit .... which are #35)
#75 light green

rear

#65 yellow
#70 silver (kit)
#75 light green

I would try and get #68 blue and #72 cobalt blue too.

I'm always happy to help and advise on this car (and the ZX5-SP) but please post in the main forums rather than PMs so everybody can see the answers.

Enjoy the RB5 .....


THANKS roger for the advice
pete68

[johnnyboy]

http://johnnyboydotca.blogspot.com/

There are posts there that list good spares to have and another of the various hop up parts (with part numbers too) :thumbsup:

[shawn]

Advise please:eh?:

This weekend is my first meeting with my RB5.
The track will be Bumpy grass and I am using 6.5 Brushless.

Can anyboby suggest a good set of springs or are the kit items good enough.
I have seen Losi Pink rear and Blue front recomended but the blues seem to be in short supply at present. Are there any other combo's which I should be looking at?

Normally I race Touring Car so any advise will be greatly received :thumbsup:

[RogerM]

I would suggest #70 (silver) or #72 (purple / cobalt blue) in the rear (Kyosho)

The car can be made to work on Losi red rears but they are a little too short to be able to get a decent rear ride height (try using the JConcpets offset lower spring paltforms ... they help)

On the front I would go for #70 (Silver) springs .... Losi Blues work ok .... in the outer hole on the wishbone.

I will post up a set up tomorrow (too tired to go through the grief of getting it on here tonight).

The car works well on

2C pistons in the front 35-40wt AE oil with #65, #70 or #75 Kyosho springs
2B pistons in the rear 35wt AE oil with #70, #72 or in extreme conditions #75 rear springs.

Shortish angled link on the rear and longish parallel link on the front.

Feel free to PM circuit details to me and I'll help if I can.

I have been running a Novak 6.5L on 22/78 gearing.

[erkan]

Hey Roger.
Do you have any good setup for the rb5 on very loose and bumpy dirt tracks? =)

[bondy]

Muuuuhah hahhahaha I have one of the little buggers now !!! :thumbsup:

[RogerM]

I'd just use my basic set-up and tune from there .... possibly 1 spring down all round (Yellow).

If you PM me an e-mail addy I'll mail you my basic starting setups as they are too big to host here.

[Richard_Griffiths]

HI GUYS PURCHASED AS RB5 a few weeks ago and at last put my motor and esc in.

Motor being run is a GTB/Velociti 5.5R System.

I was wonding what setup you would run at a clay/grass track.

The reason i ask is that i am due to run at ledbury on sunday in a big 10th race and the motor just mfakes the car pull wheelies. Which looks impressive but you cant steer when the wheels are in the air.

I need to make the front wheels more planted.

Cheers

PS anyone else going to ledbuy on sunday

[Pledger]

*double post*

[Pledger]

Hi! I'm new at this with off road, I went from mini-z racing to this! (pretty serious mini-z racing though) :p
Pretty recently I bought a RB5 and have now made my first run at the racetrack. My present setup is basically the original from the manual and it feels like a pretty good basic setup. Now I want to start experimenting with the setup but I have no clue what a harder spring makes, a shock piston with bigger holes, a higher wing angle and so on... Are there any good threads/blogs/sites were I can get some answers about this?


My local race track is a a Astroturf track so I will definitely try your setup Roger! Are there different types of Astroturf or are they all the same?

Pics of my local racetrack:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb236/CallePledger/IMG_2366-f.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb236/CallePledger/IMG_24472.jpg

I also have to ask about this... On my two days at the racetrack i broke two Ball end caps (long) and two of the part i don't now the name of witch comes in "UM501". What do you call this part?
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb236/CallePledger/Untitled-2.jpg
The hole fore the ball stud broked. Don't seems to be common to brake, right?

/Calle Pledger

[DanW]

First thing to do is to remove the kit (silver!) springs from the front, they are way to soft and replace them with the zx-5 (silver!) #70 rate (W5181-09).

At the rear I would recommend the light green spring #75 rate (5181-75).

Pistons should be the largest 2 hole at the back and the smaller 2 hole at the front.

Associated 30wt oil rear, 35wt front.

Outside holes on the wishbone front and rear seems to work best for high grip tracks, but you can customise shock angles and down travel to suit the conditions. Many people are running the atomic carbon rear tower to get the shocks more upright, personally I run the stock tower.

The most important thing i've found in the RB5 is weight distribution, i have always run the batteries in the front poisition and added extra weights to the front end.

As a fine tuning I have removed 1 spacer from under in the front inner camber link ball stud to get the front end to roll in a bit more. Makes the car a bit more aggressive.

I think one set-up will suit most astro-turf tracks, there are different types of astro-turf but normally all that is changed is tyres. So for very high grip astro maybe mini-pin rears and stagger rib front, for less grippy tracks mini-spikes all around.

:thumbsup: By the way your track looks very smart! :thumbsup:

[Pledger]

Big thanks Dan! So the RB5 and the ZX5 springs aren't the same. That was new to me!

What i meant with this was that I would like to learn which adjustments affects what.
Now I want to start experimenting with the setup but I have no clue what a harder spring makes, a shock piston with bigger holes, a higher wing angle and so on... Are there any good threads/blogs/sites were I can get some answers about this?


I use the Kyosho shock oil. Is the kyosho 400cps almost = 40wt? Softer or harder?

[DanW]

Kyosho shock oils don't correspond with AE ones, they are on a different scale... if you search the forums you will find a topic about shock oil comparison.

There are too many things to adjust on a modern buggy to be able to explain all the changes.

I have a general buggy tuning guide somehwere, if i can find it i will send it to you.

The kit RB5 springs are different to the kit ZX-5 spings even though the colour is the same. You will notice a big difference between RB5 silver front and ZX5 silver front.

[jim76]

get some lead weights (the adhesive type used for alloy wheel balancing from a tyre garage) and add 30g to the front of the car. As much around the steering rack as you can squeeze in.
This is a definite must for you Richard if your car is pulling wheelies! But then again the 5.5 is a little agressive for a 2wd! Try fitting a 12.5mm rotor to it that will ease the acceleration a touch.

[Pledger]

Can't find the thread you are talking about :bored:

I meant the basics like springs and stuff like that. If you could find your guide I would be really grateful!

So the ZX-5 spring scale isn't the same as the RB5 either :bored: I made this spring list but if the scale isn't the same I have to make some changes. >>Link<< (http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb236/CallePledger/Kyoshospringlist.jpg?t=1215823016)

Edit: Made some changes on the list: >>New link<< (http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/bb236/CallePledger/?action=view&current=Kyoshospringlist-zx5.jpg)

[DanW]

The spring chart you have is correct and all those springs fit RB5 and ZX5. The only springs that are different are the RB5 kit springs, the fronts are something like #40 rate!

Its shcok oils that are different, Kyosho 400 is not the same as Associiated 40wt. The japanese use a linear grading system for oil, but the americans use a sliding scale. Somewhere here on oople is a discussion about it. Here is the link to shock oil comparison chart... http://www.twf8.ws/php/tip/shock.html

Kyohoso 400wt = 411cts nearest Associated is 35wt = 425 cts

[RogerM]

I have my desk PC up and running again and will get the sheets off to somebody to host in teh next day or two.

Super happy with both Kyosho cars now, certainly wouldn't change. It looks like I'll be doing very limited racing for the rest of the year due partly to work commitments but also due to lack of funds, I'll try to keep the set-ups up to date for the last half of the year though.

[JCJC]

Can't find the thread you are talking about :bored:

I meant the basics like springs and stuff like that. If you could find your guide I would be really grateful!



Thy here: http://users.pandora.be/elvo/

[stevie b]

Hi has anyone had any luck finding stuart woods set up?:thumbsup: and is the front brass bulkhead available to buy or was it a one off?:drool: :)

cheers stevie.

[Supergreg]

Unfortunately it was a one off. Looks like we're one year late, mate :cry:

[woOdy]

Hi has anyone had any luck finding stuart woods set up?:thumbsup: and is the front brass bulkhead available to buy or was it a one off?:drool: :)

cheers stevie.

I am still here to ask questions. I loved driving the car and got a little dis-heartened that Kyosho was not interested in helping me. After selling the car I then find out the car I recieved for the oOple review came from The Race Place and Kyosho gave it them. I built the car on the Thursday night and raced the first National on the Saturday. How comitted is that. Won the C main with a standard car, no practice and 1 set of wheels. No change of springs, no spares. I really enjoyed making the car competative and yes I did make some shock towers and a brass bulk head. I did then make 2 National A mains and a few B's. Lowest result was C 1 and that was the first National out. I did not have it long enough to try the new rear end so I am sorry I cant comment on that. I would LOVE to drive for them as I think the ZX5 needs some work also. I can only dream.

[woOdy]

RB5 set up.

To start off with we have adaptors for AE type wheels on the rear and alloy axles for the front. Atomic Carbon shock towers front and rear and Atomic Carbon dif balls, plates and thrust race. I have also got a BRASS bulk head at the front from Woody’s Wiz Bits(75g).

Front shocks

Number ? pistons with 40 wt AE oil and either blue Losi or green Losi springs. Inner at the bottom and second one from the outer at the top( one extra out from the standard tower). The front camber link I have it in the middle on the inner with no washers and the inner on the outside. I have the height washers on the caster blocks at the top to give more ride height. I also have the bulk head at 30’. To make the Losi springs to fit you have to cut two coils off them so this does make the spring slightly stiffer.

Rear shocks

Number 2C pistons with Losi 25 wt oil and pink springs. I have also put a longer ball end on the end of the shaft to give it more droop(2mm). Inner at the bottom and second from the outer at the top( this is 2 holes out from standard). The camber link I have it on the outer on the hub with about 4 mil washer under ball stud and the inner no washers and on the inner position. The hub height I run it on the highest position and at Bury I ran it long wheel base.

Battery position

I run it forward.

Wing mount.

I run it at the highest setting. I also don’t have any dam on the wing.

Anti-squat

I have played about with this and I have tried to add a washer under the rear block but I don’t think this makes a difference so I started to play with the front block. I have for now just turned the block upside down which does lower the anti-squat about one digree. This makes the car handle the bumps better at fast speed.

Ride height

I have it about wishbones level at the rear and just below level at the front. I try to have the front lower than the rear as this will give more steering.

[woOdy]

RB5 First test at Tiverton National.

We received the car only the Thursday afternoon and we was setting off for the National the following day. Me and Jimmy stayed up till 2am to finish the build and I got up early so I could at least put a pack of batteries through the car. I went to my local track( Bury Metro) and it was dry. I didn’t even have my body shell yet so I was running without it and without the wing. It did feel very fast out of the corners and it did have a lot of grip on the astro. As it wasn’t going over our new jumps very well without the body shell I decided to stop before it broke. Got home and started packing to set off.

Saturday morning we got there a little late and my batteries had not charged so I did practice with John Prices B4 and stick trany.
Second practice I did manage to get a go, it was NOT set up very well. It was too hard still after me thinking the pistons I had fitted would work and the 25 wt oil sufficient. The car didn’t want to turn in and the rear end would not roll.

Round 1, got to the start line and my car with the Brand new Mtroniks brushless system in would not work, so I mist round 1.

Round 2, I only changed the speedo and motor back to brushed and I did change the shock angles to try and get it to roll a little more. I also had changed the springs to a softer one as I am using AE springs as I have no spares as yet. Went to brown on the front and green on the rear. Which also should make the car roll a little more for more grip.

Round 3, I changed wheel base to a longer setting so the rear end would come round a little better, changed the inner rear camber ball stud to a higher setting which should also make the rear pivot more but this was still not quick.

Round 4, I changed wheel base to long, the outer ball stud to a higher setting which does the same as lowering the inner ball stud and stud the front shocks right up to try and get more grip from the front but this still was not on the pace.

At this time I was not in a good mood as I had high expectations for this first outing and when I went to find out what final I had ended up in as I tend not to look at the results all day to keep focused on driving smooth and not worrying about having to make 2 good rounds. I ended up 3rd in the C main. I was not expecting that as I thought it was going worse than that.

C’main, I did change the pistons in the rear to the biggest holes to try and make the rear suspension move going round corners, lowered the inner rear ball stud on the camber link which is ment to give more grip. I also trimed the rear wing down to try and give more steering under power and this was the best the car was all day. I won the final and I was very pleased with how it drove. If the day was on FTD and not round by round the time in the final would of put me middle of the A’main.

All in all, it was NOT a B4 as I have drove for a good 3 or 4 years now but I think with time it will keep up with it if not beat it sometimes. I did find it has a lot of rear end grip and it does take the bumps. It does jump nice and flat and it is easy to work on. The quality is also very good and just to let you all know there is not a positive screw in sight. They are all hex screws.

[woOdy]

RB5 at Southport 29th April 2007.


It was a very nice day and it was dry from the word go. I started practice with half worn yellow minis on just to try. I had AE blue springs on with 2b pistons and 25 wt oil in the front. I had Kyosho silvers and 2a pistons with 25wt oil in the rear. I had the front camber link on the inner point of the outer position and the middle on the inner position. I had no washers under the inner ball stud at the front. The rear was on the inner of the outer position and the middle on the inner with 1 washer under the ball stud. I had it on long wheel base and the rear wing with 2 segments on.
It was not so good in practice but I had all day to try things out.

Round 1.

For this round I changed the shock position on the front from middle at the top to outer and this is ment to give a little more front end but it wasn’t much better. I did manage to get the car air bourne and come down on the rear shock tower on a concrete corner and it obviously broke( find pic in report ).

Round 2.

For this round I changed the front shock position again from the outer hole at the bottom to the inner hole which I am still trying to get some front end under power. This was still not good enough but I did manage to finish.

Round 3.

I put a new set of yellow mini spike on, changed the front top shock position to the middle, went up 5 wt in oil and this was starting to make the car a little more responsive but still not on pace.

Round 4.

For this one I did something I don’t normal do and it was to change a lot of things at once. I went up to 40wt oil in the front and changed the front camber link to long on the outer position which is ment give the tyre more weight on the wheel so more grip. I also went to a shorter link on the rear to try and get rid of some of this MEGA grip from the rear. I also wound down the rear shock ball end to give alittle more droop, changed the front springs to Losi greens (which u do have to cut down 2 coils to fit ), and Losi reds on the rear. I have been struggling with trying to get the car to pivot round the corners and in this round is was like a different car. Yes it was still slightly power under steering but not as much as previously. This put me in 4th place on the A main behind Tricky ( home track ), Danny Magoo ( spent a lot of time down here ) and Stu Mahon ( very quick round here ). I was very happy being behind these guys as they are 2 Losi A’Team drivers and a best friend to 1.

A Main.

For the final all I did was add an extra washer under the rear inner ball stud on the camber link which is ment to take grip off the back. It didn’t start off very well due to some drivers cutting corners at there home track and then kindle took me out. I was then trying to keep it smooth because anything can happen in 5 minutes and it did. The car was almost some where there. It was the best its been so far. It was still slightly power understeering but it was on the pace at last. In the end everybody else kept crashing and I kept it on its wheels and finished up second behind Tricky. Well happy with the result. Really happy with the car heading in the wright direction and now we have now got a good base to start from.

[woOdy]

RB5 at Bury Metro- North West Regional. Sunday 27/5/07.


The day started off really wet. It was raining and I as the chairman of the club was thinking of cancelling the meeting. We decided to wait a little while to see what happened. It did stop and it was time to start racing.

Practice.
I started off the same set up as Kiddy which is Losi green springs on the front and Losi red springs on the rear. I had 40wt in the front with the the middle largest two hole piston in and 35wt and the smallest two hole piston in the rear. I did run the brass bulk head and the Atomic Carbon towers front and back. I started off with the shocks on the second hole from the inner, front and back due to the rain and on the inner at the bottom of the rear but the outer on the front. I had the wheel base on long and the batteries forward. The rear camber link was the shortest it would go and the front camber link on the outer hole on the outside and the middle hole on the inner. I didn’t have any washers under the ball ends front or back to try and give so roll. The tyre choice for the wet was Ballistic Buggy mini spike greens. The car felt pretty bad but it would go round the track.

Round 1.

It was still wet and I left the same tyres on. The only thing I changed for this round was I went to shot wheel base to try and get some more rear end traction and I moved the front axle position from top to bottom as I thought the front end was a bit low. The car was still rubbish but I was the only person not to crash and finished first in round one.

Round 2.

It was still wet but not raining. I left the tyres again but started to play with the new holes that Atomic had put on the new towers so the shock could stand up right more. I also put on Losi blue springs on the front to stop the front end from diving. In this round the car was understeering into the corner and over steering in the middle and under steering coming out. At this stage I am not happy. I wanted my B4 back. I don’t even know where I finished in this round.

Round 3.

This was a bad round for the mechanic(me) as he put the motor in backwards and I didn’t start or finish.

Round 4.

This round was dry and I changed to Schumacher yellow mini spikes. I also dug out the B4 BIBLE and started to read. I shortened the front camber link, lengthened the rear link to the longest setting, put back the wheel base to long and also stud the shocks up even more. I put the front bottom of the shock to the inner position also. This round was very good. I did finish second behind Danny Mcgoo by three seconds which I thought was ACE and I was catching him. The car was the best it has ever been and I still think the rear is too hard and I also think the pistons are wrong. But a, second in the end I couldn’t ask for anything else.

A’ Main.

It was dry and we set off down the straight. I got round the first corner with no problems, got to the second and I was up Dannys bottom and sorry Danny but I caught him. We got out of the tangle near the back of the pack. I settled down very quickly and the car felt really good and I started to push it. I got up to second and Damian Whittle was leading and he was about three or four corners ahead. I knew it was still the beginning of the race and I had a good half of the race left. I pushed harder and after all it is my track caught up to Damian and passed him. Got up to first and stayed there. I then relaxed a little. A lap from the end and my cells started to go soft ???????? I could see Danny in second and he was catching me fast. I was coming off the banked corner to go down the straight and he was about four or five yards behind. I crossed the line and the buzzer went. I didn’t hear Danny’s number called and he caught me and passed me two or three corners from the end. When Danny crossed the line he didn’t get called so he had finished the previous lap. This means I WON.

Conclusion.

At the end of the day, I was very unhappy at first but had a think and due to the changes the Atomic Carbon have made to the towers and my Dad making the bulk head, I think today was a very good result. I also think there is a bit more I could of got out of it as the rear was still a little stiff and it jumped out a few times and it didn’t feel like it was rolling. I do have two weeks till the big day so I need to get testing.

[woOdy]

Hope this helps. Sorry it took so long. The idea was to have like a review thing but never came off.

[SimonW]

For those that are interested i borrowed the drill set (imp, Numbered SWG) and compared pistons that i have laying around. Kyosho 3B = Number 56 = Losi Red, so after working that out i drilled some 3B's to make some 55's. Then i got the K' 3A's out and found that the 55 drill was a little sloppy and the 54 drill would not go through the hole at all, so they must be equivalent to 554 Losi (drilled) which is wot the xxxCR set-ups run. Needless to say i am now running 3 hole pistons B's in the front 35wt and A's in the rear 30wt, ae oils.

Hope that helps.

[Pledger]

Hello! I have been looking at many setups here. What I don't understand is why people often have thicker oil in the front but also complain about bad steering and puts weights in the front. What I have learned is that thicker oil generate less front grip. I'm not a expert(yet;)) in setups so please explain :)

/Calle Pledger

[Martin-Barbour]

SimonW, Are the 3B's you're running in the front your modified (drilled) versions or standard?

Have you had a chance to check this setup out on a track yet?

[Pledger]

Hello! I have been looking at many setups here. What I don't understand is why people often have thicker oil in the front but also complain about bad steering and puts weights in the front. What I have learned is that thicker oil generate less front grip. I'm not a expert(yet;)) in setups so please explain :)

/Calle Pledger

No one? :eh?:

[Matthijs]

thicker oil is to calm down the rebound, don't want your car to get bouncy at the front. At the front you should put softer springs for more steering.

[Fabs]

Right I'm getting my RB5 for Worksop anyone has a good indoors setup ?

[OAP28]

Stu.
On the AC shock tower review, is your car running B4 rear wheels?
If so did you use the proline axles?

[SimonW]

You have to run the proline axle kit to run B4 rims, the kit converts the RB5 so that you can use Losi/AE/Proline wheels on the rear axles only. These wheels are also a few mm wider than the Kyosho wheels, which is nice!

[Fabs]

No one on an indoors setup ??? :o

[RSharpy]

No one on an indoors setup ??? :oHi Fabs, unfortunatly I never ran my RB5 at Worksop. But I will post my set up from the F2's at Eastrax for you. If I was running 2wd there i'd use that as a starting point, with the obvious change of tyres and maybe shorten the wheel base :)

[Fabs]

Thanks matey :thumbsup: A starting point that's all i need:)

[bondy]

All you need ?? :confused:

Some form of skill would be a benefit !:thumbsup:

[woOdy]

Had a great day today with the RB. Made a few changes to the rear anti squat. I turned upside down the front pivot block which will lower the front position about 2.5mm and put a 1mm washer under the rear block. Shortened the front camber link to the middle on the tower and the inner on the caster block. Went really well and TQ'd. Had a bit of a play with the front bulk head block(brass) and I have settled with it being 30'. This gave me more positive turn in and I had more confidence with the car. Even got to push it alittle in the final after a bad start. Really looks like it getting there now. My next thing is to try and make alittle more droop.

[dbizzle5]

Can you post your set up for how you ran your car at worksop and today please Stu?

[woOdy]

Can you post your set up for how you ran your car at worksop and today please Stu?

Today was better than Worksop.

front:- Light green springs
2b pistons
45 wt AE oil
middle on tower
inner on wish bone
30' caster
wish bones just below level

Rear:- Silver springs
2b pistons
35 wt AE oil
inner on tower
inner on wish bone
medium wheel base
cells rear
drive shafts level

13' on rear wing with 2mm on dam

Brass bulk head
Upside down front pivot block on anti squat and 1mm washer under rear.

I am running the Worlds wish bones with drive shafts and hubs but not tower or shocks.

Camber links, front:- middle on tower with 0 washers and inner on caster block.
rear:- middle on tower and outer on hub with 5mm washer on outer ball stud and 0 on inner stud.

[RogerM]

Not far off how I run mine most of the time indoors other than

front shocks 35wt AE oil and 2c pistons (found it smoother than heavier oil and 2b piatons). Lower end of shock outer on wishbone

Rear shock bottom middle on wishbone and middle on tower.

[dbizzle5]

Today was better than Worksop.

front:- Light green springs
2b pistons
45 wt AE oil
middle on tower
inner on wish bone
30' caster
wish bones just below level

Rear:- Silver springs
2b pistons
35 wt AE oil
inner on tower
inner on wish bone
medium wheel base
cells rear
drive shafts level

13' on rear wing with 2mm on dam

Brass bulk head
Upside down front pivot block on anti squat and 1mm washer under rear.

I am running the Worlds wish bones with drive shafts and hubs but not tower or shocks.

Camber links, front:- middle on tower with 0 washers and inner on caster block.
rear:- middle on tower and outer on hub with 5mm washer on outer ball stud and 0 on inner stud.


Cheers!:thumbsup:

Quite different to what I ran at the weekend but gives some food for thought!

Stu, can you confirm to me about the pistons. From all the posts Ive read I gathered that 2Bs were middle and that 2cs were the ones with the smallest holes ie the hardest but when Ive put 2cs in the front the front is much softer. I measured the diameter of the holes and the 2cs are larger than the 2bs! Is that correct with what you know? Its the same with Sharpys aswell. His front end is always so soft. :confused:

[RogerM]

All the info I have states that the 2C is a smaller hole than a 2B. Never measured them though and just trusted the sources (Kyosho USA team drivers). Will try to measure them when I get home.

To be honest I have found the damping with the 2C in the front and circa 35wt AE oil to be about perfect for everywhere.

I NEVER run on the inside hole on the front wishbone as I found that it was impossible to get a stiff enough setting for springing using that, since I went to the outer hole the car has been MUCH improved.

[dbizzle5]

Have just re checked and your right Roger. The 2c,s are smaller than the 2Bs:blush:.

cheers!

[woOdy]

Have just re checked and your right Roger. The 2c,s are smaller than the 2Bs:blush:.

cheers!

yes they are:D

[RSharpy]

Have to say this........ I told you so!!! :p:p:p

You need to get your eyes tested Daniel son :lol:

[dbizzle5]

Have to say this........ I told you so!!! :p:p:p

You need to get your eyes tested Daniel son :lol:

Chump!

ps Thanx for that big box of RB5 spares youve left in my boot!!:p

[froggie]

Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.

[froggie]

Well worked all day on setup. Just not shure what the shim under the front caster block doese and actually changes. I think it is antisquat but not shure? Any thoughts would be nice and a part number for the lime grean springs have orange but too stiff. Just finishing. testing on shocks. But will post finished setup when done.

[woOdy]

Well worked all day on setup. Just not shure what the shim under the front caster block doese and actually changes. I think it is antisquat but not shure? Any thoughts would be nice and a part number for the lime grean springs have orange but too stiff. Just finishing. testing on shocks. But will post finished setup when done.

the shim is for when u change the angle from 25' to 30'. its just a spacer. Doesnt really affect the handling.

[dbizzle5]

Well worked all day on setup. Just not shure what the shim under the front caster block doese and actually changes. I think it is antisquat but not shure? Any thoughts would be nice and a part number for the lime grean springs have orange but too stiff. Just finishing. testing on shocks. But will post finished setup when done.


If orange springs are too stiff then lime greens are 10lbs stiffer I think?!!

[RogerM]

Orange springs (if they are Kyosho springs) are the softest practical spring!!!

Normally find that the RB5 works best on silver (#70) or lime green (#75) front springs outdoors ... sometimes use a set of cut down (1.5 coils off) Losi blacks indoors if the carpet is mega grippy! Those springs are always combined with the outer hole on the wishbone (I find using the inner hole makes the car hook too much for my driving) ..... I have no idea why you would ever want to use Kyosho Orange springs (think they are #55 IIRC)

Rears almost always #68,#70,#72 ..... mostly the #70 silver.

[caneye]

Is that the silver that comes with the kit?

[RogerM]

NOT AT THE FRONTS!!!!!

That one is #35 and WAY too soft for anything!

At the rear yes, kit silvers are #70

[paulj]

Is there a conversion kit for the RB5 Worlds rear? Part number? Is this a big improvement over the standard RB5?

thanks...

[Arn0]

Is there a conversion kit for the RB5 Worlds rear? Part number? Is this a big improvement over the standard RB5?

thanks...
I did post those informations on PetitRC, here are all you need (link) (http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/showpost.php?p=309712&postcount=268). Get rid off the french words and go straight to bolded lines and parts reference!

[paulj]

I did post those informations on PetitRC, here are all you need (link) (http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/showpost.php?p=309712&postcount=268). Get rid off the french words and go straight to bolded lines and parts reference!


Thank you :)

[Fabs]

Stuuuuuuu need help!

It's 3 races I do where there's very little grip and every time the RB5 is pants. Today there wasn't any heating on and I struggled a lot just for grip. I started on the same setup as last time round as it got me two top ten runs, but this time I was 2s off the pace, the car lacked overall grip. So I tried your setup with the flipped rear wishbone mount etc and it was a bit better but still not very good.

You have any suggestions?

[RogerM]

I did post those informations on PetitRC, here are all you need (link) (http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/showpost.php?p=309712&postcount=268). Get rid off the french words and go straight to bolded lines and parts reference!


Arno,

missed off the W5181-75 light green front springs as the hardest

[Fabs]

Right I think I've narrowed the issue to the car's weight. Basically running Lipo and I did choose the heaviest Lipo in the Orion range, but it's still about 100g lighter than my cells. With the car being light to start with, it's now only 1480g and even the 30G i had added were not doing much.

So I'm curious to know how much your cars weights lads.

[caneye]

i am using an orion 3200 which has 80g of weight stuck on it :woot:
i add a further 30g under the front steering rack.

i used to have an additional 30g behind the battery and next to RX but have since removed them.

using a standard Spektrum RX, futaba analog standard-size servo, LRP sphere and novak motor, i have no problem exceeding the weight limit (circa 1700g) :mad:

but i feel i need the additional wait to keep the car planted, seeing that i run in mainly dusty tracks, not high-traction tracks like you folks.

[Fabs]

Wait, you barely have any more weight than I do on your car yet there's 200g difference? Must be something wrong mate. I know that brushless is a lot heavier but not 200g last I checked it was 50g.

[RogerM]

My RB5 is about 1695g - 1705g depending on whose scales it's on!!!!

Equipment used is

Nosram Matrix speedo (heatsink but no fan)
LRP brushless motor
E4500 cells (6cell packs)
Spektrum 3000 reciever
HiTec HS925MG servo
about 35g of lead in the nose, nothing anywhere else.

The RB5 seems a real heavy weight so I am shocked your anywhere near the weight limit!!!

[Fabs]

Well I'm running an orion 5000 lipo which weights 260g so that's a lot lighter than your heavy NiMH (I was only running GP 3700s previously), then I've put whatever electronics I had spare, so short servo which is lighter than a standard size and tekin FX pro which is a lot lighter than the sphere. I do have quite a fair amount of weight on the front, about 45g, and also my PT.

The problem I have is that there is no space for me to put any lead under the Lipo, so I have to find another way. Also I've swapped the steel turnbuckles for titanium ones for strenghtening purposes and I have the SP motor plate whih I wouldn't have got if i'd known...

Lead putty is going to be my best mate :cry:

[dbizzle5]

Fab, I run the core 5000 and Ive got a lead plate under the lipo!;)

All i did was put 2mm washers under the battery posts and now it fits.:thumbsup:

[Fabs]

That is a good idea, see the problem is that not having built the car in the first place, I didn't even think that the posts were just screwed onto the chassis... Either way the carbon battery strap cures that issue and it should be on its way.

[caneye]

you can stick weights under the battery foam.
also .. glue them to the outer sides of the battery compartments . and in the 2 triangles on both sides of the chassis.

the 2mm on the battery posts works very well without replacing the standard battery strap.

i am also using titanium turnbuckles.

[RogerM]

Anybody get the Niggs98 indoor set uphe used to TQ recently?????

[niggs98]

you wont belive me if i tell you, but i tq'd worksop using my petit setup so super thick in the oils etc. car was great to qualify with but i couldnt really fight in the finals with it so have made some changes for the players.

as for weights of the car im running a trackpower 4900, and although was brushed for the last worksop im now tekin'd up

rspro, 6.5 track power ko 2123 servo spectrum reciever.

needed to add about 40 grams to the car to get it above the weight limit. 20g on the servo 20g on the kit batterystrap on top of the square on it. have tried moving weight right forwards and back over the weekend and found it had an adverse effect so have it far enough forward to stop it wheelying but central enough to keep the balance

[hopsing]

My car weighs in at right around 1510-1512g. Orion/KO speedo, Orion brushless motor, Futaba FASST reciever, Orion 1409 servo, Lunsford turnbuckles, 14 grams in nose, 14 grams at rear of car (7 in each rear triangle), Orion 3800 Lipo, and aluminum CVD's.

[shannow95]

Hello,

I've just bought a RB5 (I usually run a b44 ) I've posted a little summay of my story in the electric section :) .

I run at a club wich runs on bare synthetic floor in a gymnasium (vinil plactic stuff) . It is incredibly slipery ... nearly gave up until I tried to change the stock tyre to mini-spikes with the B44 ... But it still is quite wild in the corners and hard accelerations .

I've found a lot of set up charts for grass / dust / astro / carpet / clay etc but none really for that synthetic floor (and as it is a gymnasium it's a bit oily from the sweet of people :bored:).
What kind of settup chart would suit that type of floor as a correct base to start off for the RB5 settings ?

The b44 runs on a X12 6.5t I think it's overpowered I've ordered a SP 10.5T for the RB5 . The track is daily built and usualy very technical for example last monday there was 9 sharp U turns in the same lap with appart from a straight line of about 60ft the longest straights are 10ft max (plus two jumps in wood ).

thank you very much

[RogerM]

I will try to get you a set-up later ... I don't have my set-up folder to hand now but I remember having the car going really well at a track which was mixed carpet and polished floor ... the key to a fast lap there was getting the car to work on the polished and drive as required to manage the higher grip carpet.

(I do remember that I ran the car 1 spring softer than normal so that would be yellow #65 all round)

If you don't hear anything in a couple of days shout again!

[shannow95]

Thank you very much :)

I have received basicaly everything yesterday .I'm assembling the chassis . It is well conceived I like it . The only thing missing is the 10.5t motor which will arrive next week end perhaps or in two weeks . Do you think I can try just to drive the chassis a bit my X12 6.5t in it ? I might put it at 75% max power on my transmitter settings (The X12 6.5t is 400w the equivalent 10.5t is around 300watts a 25% difference top power) bad or good idea for a try out ?

thanks

[RogerM]

If all you are waiting for is the motor then I would suggest setting the speedo up to be very "soft" and run your 6.5 motor to start with.

Set the AMTS to 1 and the DRP to 1 or 2

Basically I'd set the speedo up as follows and start from there for your racing surface.

1 = 1
2 = 1
3 = 1 (NiMh) or 5 (LiPo)
4 = 1 or 2 (punch / smoothness control)
5 = 3
6 = 1
7 = 1
8 = 1
9 = 1 - 4 (experiment with this, motor timing can make a huge difference!!)
10 = 1

Give that a go

As far as the car is concerned I'd try;

longest links all round (except inner hole on the front hub)
2mm spacer under all ballstuds
short wheelbase
invert the forward of the rear hinge pin holders (reduces anti-squat)
shocks mounted in outer holes on the wishbones, mid on towers

oils / pistons / springs
front (30wt / 2C / Yellow #65)
rear (30wt 2B / dark yellow #60)

put about 40g in the front bulkhead

give that a go and let me know how it drives :D

[shannow95]

Thank you very much :) I will try it out as soon as I can .

What is the AMTS and the DRP ?

Should I keep the EPA for the throttle at 100% on vinyl surface?

thanks :)

[RogerM]

Thank you very much :) I will try it out as soon as I can .

What is the AMTS and the DRP ?

Should I keep the EPA for the throttle at 100% on vinyl surface?

thanks :)

Read the manual for the speedo and all will become clear ;)

If you use the settings I have given you then the car will feel very easy to drive ... turn things up as you see fit when you get used to it.

I always keep the EPA on the throttle set to 100% and try to use the EPA connected to my thumb .. not always with sucess but its a great way to build throttle control skills

[shannow95]

Thanks ,

I've jut returned from the training but had some problems :( I'm very new to 2wd world .
Basicaly followed most the settings you gave me , I had mini-pin tyres front (4x4 tyre so quite large ) and rear mini pins as well . The mates over there stiffened the springs so that the car would have more height . But I couldn't stear sharp at all only when I break I would stear a little and usualy the rear went in front ...
The chief advised me to put Mini-spike at the rear and stagger at the front for the tyres . Is it a good start ?

The motor was the 6.5t LRP's X12 with a 17teeth spur gear . The 10.5t is on order but out of stock ... I've ordered the springs you recommended as well.

Just to really point out that even the B44s with mini pin and mini spikes that were on the track have a lot of trouble already on this track surface . It really is the worst type of track surface except ice perhaps and even so i'd put screws through the wheel and then have a better grip than this highly polished vinyl surface we have :(

The car is fine I'm learning an awful lot from it already compared to my b44 but I'm really strugling/fighting a lot more than having any form of fun ...

Edit: How should you drive the 2wd on a slipery surface ? I've been told to never touch the brake or the accelerator in the corners . It sure makes it bearable but slow ... incredibly slow... I think I'm a burden on the track compared with the other 4wd runing fast in corners :(

[shannow95]

Okay

So I've it put on my DIY bed setting ...

Front camber was 4 deg one side 5 the other (i've changed that on the spot at the club going from 0 to whatever i've found toaday didn't change a thing in driving so left it lol)
-> I've set it at 2deg each

Toe at the front was 0deg right and 1deg left in toe in
-> I've set the Front toe out by 1deg each side

Rear was 2deg camber on the left 5deg on the right
->I've set it at 3deg camber for both

Left the rear toe in STD as is a shimmer buisness

Might make the chassis feel a bit more healthy I guess but I doubt it will change anything to my "it goes straight on in the curves" http://image2-0.rcuniverse.com/e1/forum/image/s46.gif

[Anibal Henriques]

Hi
In portugal we are runing in two indoor tracks ,one in astro-turf and the other in carpet ,can any body give me a good setup point for this two type of track ,they are not bumpy ,very smooth they are,lot o jumps they have like table tops,whoops anda about 6 litle ones ,very working tracks .
My car is a RB5SP2 and im wondering if i need some wheight like the Rudebits ones to get a more satble car ?
Im runnig a 12delta GM motor with a GM80R Speedo.
Need a good setup,help me please.:rolleyes:

[arny]

I heard there is a good pilot running kyosho in portugal named Arnaldo Guedes, ask help to him.

cheers
:p

[Dufty07]

Anyone goin 2 maritime on sat. who has a spare rear sp shock tower PLEASE:)

[RudeTony]

Anyone goin 2 maritime on sat. who has a spare rear sp shock tower PLEASE:)

Come and see me first thing tomorrow morning :)

[Neil Skull]

FYI,

I have some (not many ) spares with me from the shop that did Petit.

UM520 is not one though :(

anyone who needs anything give me a shout and we can check what we have!!

[Dufty07]

thanx tony, will c u 2moro:thumbsup:life saver

[Mars]

Hi,
do you have a good starting set up for the RB5 SP2 on grass track with Schumacher minispikes tires.

Thanks

[carlin]

Hi,
do you have a good starting set up for the RB5 SP2 on grass track with Schumacher minispikes tires.

Thanks

Hi Mate,

have look at the link it may help -

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/SetupSheetsKyoshoUltimaRB5.html

TBH I have only ran mine on grass once never changed the setup from Astro to Grass really

[Mars]

Thanks for the info, i thought that astro tracks had more traction than grass one!
You used a heavy front end (add weight) and 30° castor, it s for better steering?

I will try the Southport BRCA set up as a starting point.
Thanks