View Full Version : Rear drive shaft problem!
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 08:05 PM
Ok I noticed this problem last week indoors but it was much more of a problem today outdoor on a bumpy surface. I have the longer rear axels, and ive used 2 bearings, the tube spacer and the little spacer on inside of driveshaft. but my drveshafts are half in half out of the outdrives so if i hit somthing they pop out. after consulting the lads at the club I was told i need to add another bearing. so i did this, i had to remove the small spacer or you couldnt see hole for pin atall, but even with this removed I couldnt get pin in to hold on outside??? so i had to shim it up as best i could.
Does anyone else have this problem? Any better solution?
Chris
TheReferee
14-03-2010, 08:31 PM
you should have bearing, bearing, tube, bearing, shims as required then wheel washer and the pin. if what you mean is the driveshafts are coming out when the wheels are at full droop then you have too much droop, caused by, wrong length shock shafts, unscrewed ball ends, no limiters ans other such things.
Darren Boyle
14-03-2010, 08:32 PM
If the axles are fitted correct with the spacers as they should be, the driveshaft pin should be snugly inside the diff outdrive.
What shocks are you running and what length are they? Sounds very possible that you have too much rear droop, maybe you can measure this on your car and one of our team guys can confirm this for you....
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 08:54 PM
its set up eaxactly same as the ellis stafford set up with losi shocks. 3mm limiter inside.
Chris
Darren Boyle
14-03-2010, 09:07 PM
What length Lois shock bodies and shafts are you using (it should be the 0.9 bodies with 1.0 shafts and NOT the 1.2 bodies or shafts), worth double checking this and pherhaps measure your car at full droop fom the bottom of the chassis to the ground too....
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 09:09 PM
Shock length is 91mm when going from middle of screw to middle of screw!
How do i kno if my shock bodie is 1.2 or watever??
Chris
Darren Boyle
14-03-2010, 09:37 PM
Shock length is 91mm when going from middle of screw to middle of screw!
How do i kno if my shock bodie is 1.2 or watever??
Chris
With that length of shock your bodies and shafts sound about right. My own shocks are coming in at between 89/90mm in length. With that in mind I would check that your shock bottom balljoints are on "all the way", make sure that the top shock mounting screws are not bent and if all else fails add another 1 or 2mm of limiting insdie your shocks to cure your problem......
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 09:40 PM
With that length of shock your bodies and shafts sound about right. My own shocks are coming in at between 89/90mm in length. With that in mind I would check that your shock bottom balljoints are on "all the way", make sure that the top shock mounting screws are not bent and if all else fails add another 1 or 2mm of limiting insdie your shocks to cure your problem......
were my ball joints are, you can see quite a bit of thread but I had to do this to get it the same length as ellis was running??
Chris
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 09:44 PM
Also another thing is I had tons of play in my rear wheels, in and out play.
I seen people put another bearing on the inside but this didnt work for me atall
Darren Boyle
14-03-2010, 09:50 PM
were my ball joints are, you can see quite a bit of thread but I had to do this to get it the same length as ellis was running??
Chris
I "believe" that when Ellis measures shocks he measures the overall length, (but I will let him confirm that). If you think about it, he would not be adding limiters inside the shock to make it shorter and then unwinding the shock bottom to make it longer again, the two counteract each other.....
(I would suggest to get those shock bottoms wound in all the way!!)
Darren Boyle
14-03-2010, 09:51 PM
Also another thing is I had tons of play in my rear wheels, in and out play.
I seen people put another bearing on the inside but this didnt work for me atall
You may need to snap some quick photos of this so we can all see how you have assembled it in case anything is astray..........
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 09:51 PM
I "believe" that when Ellis measures shocks he measures the overall length, (but I will let him confirm that). If you think about it, he would not be adding limiters inside the shock to make it shorter and then unwinding the shock bottom to make it longer again, the two counteract each other.....
(I would suggest to get those shock bottoms wound in all the way!!)
Will do!!!
Chris
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 10:16 PM
http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af13/ChrisGriffiths2010/th_riveshafts001.jpg (http://s989.photobucket.com/albums/af13/ChrisGriffiths2010/?action=view¤t=riveshafts001.jpg)
CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE
heres exactly how i set up driveshaft it was obviously inside the hubs!
http://i989.photobucket.com/albums/af13/ChrisGriffiths2010/th_riveshafts002.jpg (http://s989.photobucket.com/albums/af13/ChrisGriffiths2010/?action=view¤t=riveshafts002.jpg)
CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE
Heres how ive got my ball joints
MikePimlott
14-03-2010, 10:19 PM
The first spacer on the axle is not big enough. i use an old bearing middle to space
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 10:21 PM
The first spacer on the axle is not big enough. i use an old bearing middle to space
Yes as I said this made it impossible for me to put the pin in!!
MikePimlott
14-03-2010, 10:24 PM
Are you using plastic or metal hubs and are the bearings sitting in the hub fully ? Using a bearing on the inside shouldnt stop the pin going through the axle :confused:.
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 10:25 PM
Are you using plastic or metal hubs and are the bearings sitting in the hub fully ? Using a bearing on the inside shouldnt stop the pin going through the axle :confused:.
Plastic ones! im baffled by it, everyone was at the track today!
Chris
_sleigh_
14-03-2010, 10:30 PM
Those axles look like the new revised "mid" length version. Is it possible the Ellis set-up you have is from when he was running the "long" version? If so then it's highly likely the driveshafts would pop out.
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 10:34 PM
The set up sheet and drive shafts came in the Ellis x6 kit.
Chris
Darren Boyle
14-03-2010, 10:36 PM
First, reduce the shock length as mentioned above (which is what I think is your problem for the reason given in post # 10 above - I have also highlighted the reason now too).
Second, are they definatley X-Factory 5661 long axles and not standard AE B4 ones or anything siily. The new X-Factory axle should measure 9.2ish mm from the very inside of the axle to the start of the pin hole (ie how much axle you have to "slide" things on to). The overall length of the axle from one end to another should be 35.9mm
It is worth noting that the newer 5661 axles (supplied with our new C-CVD's), are very slighlty shorter than the previuos 5660 axles (same as Losi BK2) to prevent the plunge issues experienced on some set ups prior. The Ellis conversion kit only included axles (not complete driveshafts - since they were not out at the time of release) The spacer supplied with the newer type axles is slightly thinner to compensate for the marginally shorter length
Chris Griffiths
14-03-2010, 10:50 PM
Ok well ive used standard ones in that case! mine measire around 108mm in length.
Also the set up that come with kit says run rear shocks at 90.9mm so this mean fromt top to bottom not from srew to screw.
Chris.
PS I had seen your reason
Chris Griffiths
15-03-2010, 06:36 PM
Ok ive measured shocks off the car now, there exactly 90.9 same as kit set up says. this is far too much droop tho as the drive shafts come out. When I screw all the way in it measure 89mm. So is the set up in kit wrong?
Im lost with it all now. ive had people tell me too measure the full shock that comes in at 98.8mm when ball joint is fully screwed up so this is miles off.
Darren Boyle
15-03-2010, 08:12 PM
Ok ive measured shocks off the car now, there exactly 90.9 same as kit set up says. this is far too much droop tho as the drive shafts come out. When I screw all the way in it measure 89mm. So is the set up in kit wrong?
Im lost with it all now. ive had people tell me too measure the full shock that comes in at 98.8mm when ball joint is fully screwed up so this is miles off.
Chris, by shortening your overall shock length (ie screwing the ballend end all the way) and then measuring the total shock length (rather than eyelet to eyelet) should not make your shocks 10mm longer......are you sure you have your measurements right? You must of lost a good 2-4mm off the length by screwing the ballend on and from the centre of the holes in both the top and bottom of the shock you wont gain the rest...
Trust me, the correct length will be with the ballend screwed all the way on and to be honest the most important measurement is the ride height at rest and not the overall droop (this is NOT a touring car..... LOL)
Chris Griffiths
15-03-2010, 08:17 PM
OK your totally reading what im saying wrong.
My shock length now with ball conectors totally screwed in is 89mm measuring from middle of screw hole to middle of screw hole. the full shock length is now 98mm measuring from end to end
Chris
Darren Boyle
15-03-2010, 08:21 PM
No, that is what I thoght you meant.....
Anyhow, with the reduced length that will be fine and should cure your troubles as I have said.
Chris Griffiths
15-03-2010, 08:29 PM
No, that is what I thoght you meant.....
Anyhow, with the reduced length that will be fine and should cure your troubles as I have said.
Oh ok you thought id said my shocks were 78mm? no they were 90.9 mm there now 88 so i never gained 10mm.
Cheers for help!
Chris
Spencer Mulcahy
15-03-2010, 09:43 PM
Just a thought is the crush tube the right one. It might be the picture but it does look long to me.
YoungChazz
15-03-2010, 10:39 PM
May I suggest you bring your car to a track where one of the Boyz is racing? Let one of them check it out and I'll bet all will be sorted in a flash. Talking about it here seems to be going nowhere, and we have gone to great expense to put the most knowledgable guys all over the country. Any of them will be most happy to help you.
Richard Lowe
15-03-2010, 11:38 PM
Could you possibly post a picture of the car at full droop looking at it from the back, a bit like Jimmy does in his reviews...
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewx6/rearends.jpg
Except hold the chassis up so the wheel is off the ground and everything is at full droop. My X6 driveshafts are no-where near dropping out, if there's far too much droop we should be able to get a rough idea from a picture :)
Maybe its just me but shouldn't the wider spacer be nearest to the driveshaft and not between the bearings?
Its been a while but i'll be back ;)
Chris Griffiths
20-03-2010, 10:26 AM
Got this all sorted! Id messed up. Thanks for all your advice etc
Chris
Chrislong
20-03-2010, 11:44 AM
Chris, if your ever scratching your head then bring your X-6 to a Nitro meeting when your racing Nitro, as I know a thing or two about the X-6 to help out (PM me to check im going). I should be at NNRC tomorrow and Stoke the week after, if the rain stops. I know you said you've sorted it now but no harm in me checking it over for you.
RS Concept
08-04-2010, 01:31 PM
Hi,
I dont wanna open a new room for this.
Can somebody please tell me the thickness of this dilatation spacer what I need for the 5660 axle ....???....
I know its littlebit long- comparing to the new 5661- Ill put a bumping Oring on the shock shaft to keep the dogbone free from the diffs outdrives.
Thank you.
YoungChazz
10-04-2010, 04:32 PM
The spacer that comes with axle #5661 is 0.060" and that fits the X - 6 Squared perfectly.
#5660 was a replica of the axle designed for the Losi BK2 and was sold with no spacer. Several Family members had found the BK2 axle to work better than the B4 axle, and we could make them quickly with no engineering/design work. They needed a spacer of about 0.100" to work, but that actually spaced the dogbone too far in, resulting in the dogbone bottoming out in the outdrive on rare occasions. The LOSA3016 spacer works as well as anything.
Therefore, instead of making a second production run of #5660, we did the work and produced the proper axle & spacer, #5661. They will be back in stock in a week or two. (Finally!)
Also, we are now producing the complete C-C.V.D. kit, #5800. This does both sides of the car and fits both the Squared and Original. Of course it includes the #5661 axles and spacers.
Hope this helps, Peter.
RS Concept
11-04-2010, 06:16 PM
Hi Chazz,
Thanx for the info.
My supplier- Ruddogshop- of X6sq parts promissed me the 5660 is OK- "this one we use ", so I took it.:thumbdown:
Later I saw that there is a new 5661.....
Because I have milling machine and turnlathe, spacers or other stuff isnt problem for me.
Anyway, service and support X Factory.............. NR.1!!!!!!!!!
XF rules!!!!!
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