Setups

[jimmy]

Use this thread to post your setups :jimmeh

[PaulRotheram]

ill post mine later if any one is interested.. its dialed :D

[Arn0]

Setup for X6 (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xfactory/SetupSheetsXfactoryX6.html)

Setup for X5 (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xfactory/SetupSheetsXfactoryX5.html)

Setup for X60 (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/xfactory/SetupSheetsXfactoryX60.html)

A sum up sheet with documents from X-Factory! Need some diversity to be a useful tool!

[YoungChazz]

Numerous set-up sheets + a blank one for you to use on the Tech page at www.4wdrc.com

We've been so busy with the X - 6 that I've not had time to ask them, but hopefully Dan and/or Chris will send us one or two for indoor and out on your tracks. If you ever do get to race on dirt, Greg's & Paul's set-ups are dialed.

Hmmm -- I mow the grass with a Wheel Horse 14 HP tractor. 42" cut. Wife would be angry if raced on the grass!!! I can hear her now: "You get that stupid little car off there before you have it in the flowers! And stop chasing the dog!"

[Chrislong]

For indoors I have been running:

Front
45wt Losi oil, orange piston, silver spring

rear
45wt Losi oil, blue piston, red spring.

Shocks in the inner holes on wishbones (front and rear) and outer on rear, one in on front.

Wheel base medium

camber links 1 washer under front outer ball stud, middle hole on front tower.
lower outer hole on rear tower and outer hole on hub

2 degree anti squat

No additional weight

X-Factory wing

1 degree camber front, 2 degree camber rear

10x1 geared 18/102

[Chrislong]

For Tiverton I ran:

Same basic setup as above with these changes

rear
35wt Losi oil with orange piston, Pink spring

Front
30wt Losi oil with black piston, Silver spring

1 degree of camber front and rear

driveshafts level front and rear (slightly lower before it got bumpy)

One way apex diff when smooth, and composite diff tightened when bumpy - no setup changes made when swapped.

Oh, and Losi red studs on the front

[Chrislong]

For Kiddy I ran:

Same as my indoor setup but with these changes

40wt oil front and rear, green spring on front with front shock in middle wishbone hole, all shocks moved in one hole on towers.

[Big E]

Current set ups for both cars

E.

[Glenn Atterton]

Front
Blue spring / 2 piston / 40wt oil
yellow mini spike with outer edge cut off
25 degree C hubs / hub spacing in the middle
no toe in or out
0 to 1 degree camber
tie rod inner on car with 1 thin washer and inner on hub
ride height - well below level
shock mount outer on wishbone middle of shock tower
no shims in shocks

Rear
Silver spring / #1 piston / 30wt oil
4 degree toe
2 degree camber
no trans shims
no anti squat shims
shock position outer on wishbone and outer on shock tower
wheel base short on chassis, middle on hub spacing
2 plastic shims in shocks
tie rod inner on car / #2 inner on alloy hub
wing cut to 1st line

[super__dan]

How have I never noticed this thread????

Glenn, looks similair to what I ran mine on when I tried it at Teeside once with the AE shocks. All the Teeside lads seem to like it with the shocks far out on the rear tower, where as I prefer it all the way in, I do run the middle whole on the rear wishbone though which will compensate.

[Glenn Atterton]

Glenn, looks similair to what I ran mine on when I tried it at Teeside once with the AE shocks. All the Teeside lads seem to like it with the shocks far out on the rear tower

Think we're all just following Catch-Fire as he's got his going quick. Ran mine the same @ the regional and Q16th. Played with 3 & 4 toe-in, anti-squat, new rear tyres, stagger ribs. Think it was better on part worns on the front rear in R2 with 4 toe-in and mid anti-squat though

[Big E]

Here's my set ups from the super cup for any one that wants to take a peak:rolleyes:

[jimmy]

Well done by the way Ellis! Awesome 2WD final!

[Chequered Flag Racing]

10x1 geared 18/102
102!!!! :wtf:

more to the point

E, D & C

I now have Losi shocks front & rear for the X6

what's a starting setup for these @ www.trcc.org.uk (http://www.trcc.org.uk) ?

[YoungChazz]

I suspect you'll find that 102 in Chris' X - 5. The New Math goes into imaginary numbers with a 102, as it would hit the outdrive...

[Chrislong]

Glenn, you are looking at the X-5 setup. :D

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Glenn, you are looking at the X-5 setup. :D

:p but it doesn't sya that in your post :wtf:

anyway what about those Losi shock piston & oil settings for my X6 @ TRCC ?

[Big E]

Start out with my Batley set up, that should be in the ball park, or there abouts :)

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Ellis

Batley set-up

is that in your word docs in the above posts?

[Chrislong]

Hi Glenn,
My setup for Batley and Teesside are completely different when it comes to shocks. I tried my Teesside setup at York last week, and it was like a pig on roller blades.... maybe the pins and silver front springs is a bad combination.

So here is what I use at Teesside, and id like to add - the car felt VERY good:

Front:
(With yellow staggered ribs!)
37.5wt Losi oil
Orange piston undrilled
1 of the 0.1' Losi limiters
Silver springs

Mounted outside on wishbone, middle on tower


Rear:
35wt Losi oil
Blue piston undrilled
No internal limiters (or 2 AE 0.03' if not using BK2 axles)
1 of the 0.1' Losi limiter external (only when I use BK2 axles)
Red springs
3 degree rear toe in.

Mounted outside on wishbone, inside on tower.


When I go to Batley/York....
Use Yellow Minipins front and rear.
Change to pink rear springs, and middle hole on rear wishbone
Change to black front springs to tame those pins.
4 degree rear toe in.

[Big E]

Yeah, as in the word document I posted

[Chequered Flag Racing]

see attachment

spoke to Dan and he suggested running the front camber links as E does. Car felt smoother after that.

Ran the green mini pins on the front as they were on the car for the damp start. As the day dried they stayed on as I still had the steering I needed.

Haven't got the alloy inner camber plates that the Team run on the rear though:(

[gav4wd]

Just like to say thanks for the advise and help and the S.E regional
cheers:)

[super__dan]

Attached is my setup from the outdoor regional at NECRC (Durham).

The track was grass though it was very worn in places. The car was really stable and excellent into all the corners, traction zones you had to be carefull picking up the throttle but I think everyone had to. If it was higher grip red springs on the back might be helpfull. For more steering I would have dropped a spring on the front.

Couple of great pics from Tel showing how flat the car looked through the first corner

http://www.telsshells.com/DSCF4072.JPG

http://www.telsshells.com/DSCF4174.JPG

[super__dan]

This was my setup from Tiverton, heavily biased from Ellis setup so due respect there.

Now you may be thinking this is a clay only setup but the same setup works literally everywhere and it's so good.

For grass I intend to run identical except yellow minispikes with the outside and probably insode row off the front tyres. I ran something similiar to this by the end of last year and it was great then. Will be trying the car this Sunday at Batley so will report back any findings from there.

[Stu]

I destroyed the left rear corner of Jimmy's X6 at southport on Sunday (oOops). I replaced the 3deg rear block with a 4deg (cos it's all I had). It felt no different.
I've never run a car with as much rear toe-in.
Should I have expected it to feel different?
If so, in what way?

[PaulRotheram]

I think it should of helped with on power drive correct me if im wrong? after you changed it you car looked to have more rear end coming out of corners than my b4 (round 4 - pretty fricking wet).

[jimmy]

Stu, I found a 3-deg block in my box last night, so remind me next time I see you to pass it on.

[super__dan]

Stu, it's a subtle change but it just helps settle the rear end. As you say, if you feel no difference why not run the 4 for a while see how it goes, then go back to the 3 and see how it feels.

I remember Batley national last year the 4deg really helped in the traction zones when the grass wore away.

In the wet on Sunday (round 4) Graham reconed my car looked ood and I should have driven it harder. It was super stable into the corners, but pretty hairy on the power. In fairness I couldn't be arsed to change setup as I was expecting it to stop, and it did :)

[Northy]

Your car looked to be able to go much quicker than you were driving it Dan, but Jim and I agreed. I could really see the lack of pendulum (sp) effect round the sweeper at the end of the straight where I was marshalling.

G

[Stu]

Stu, it's a subtle change but it just helps settle the rear end. As you say, if you feel no difference why not run the 4 for a while see how it goes, then go back to the 3 and see how it feels.


Maybe I should have tried it at Tivvy, allthough the car feld good with 3deg. To be fair I was more interested in the hairy poo.

[TRF_Tastic]

Hi all, does anyone have an Astro turf setup for the x6.

Many thanks

Leigh

[Chequered Flag Racing]

Hi all, does anyone have an Astro turf setup for the x6.

Many thanks

Leigh

read from post 9 onwards in this thread.

stop when you've reached this 1 :D :D :D

[Big E]

Here's mine from the national at the weekend at Bury.

E

[TRF_Tastic]

Thanks Ellis.

[gramey]

:) Leigh, Surely any setup is dependent on the wheels being in contact with terra firma?
Only kidding big guy, is the X6 a result of seeing Jimbo's go, it was going really well last time I saw it at Coastal and by the sounds of it at Eastrax as well?:)

[TRF_Tastic]

No needed a 2wd, didnt get on with the B4 so plunged for Trev's X6 went well, but I wasnt so had a bad day in all.

[super__dan]

These are my setups from the recent regional and national for both my cars. I must admit to having a little local knowledge but had only been to the track 2 times this year before the national. Both cars were uber dialled, couldn’t be any better. I suggest anyone running on medium/highish grip Euro style tracks to give these a go !

[Gayo]

Thanks Dan, really appreciated.
Are you really using 1/2 for the front shock position ? With those springs, pistons and internal limiting, shouldn't they be on the inside hole on the arms ?

[super__dan]

I most often have the bottom in the outer hole, but the top normally in the middle. By rights I should take 1 or both the limiters out of the shocks but I never tend to bother. It’s not short of droop and was no problem over the bumps so was quite happy to leave it.

In the rear I always run the middle hole on the wishbone and vary between the original inner and the extra drilled hole. I actually ran both of these at the regional and national so didn’t differentiate on the setup sheet.

[Gayo]

Thanks for the explanations. I will try it soon on my club track (astro, tight layout).
Can I call you Super ? ;)

C U in Belgium !

Cheers,
Raphael

[Kusal]

Hi Dan,
Any possibility to get a picture of the X6 rear camber link flipped low?
Thanks

[bigred5765]

======

[Lee]

hope these are of some use to someone
x5 silverstone
x6 silverstone (http://www.hobbytec.co.uk/index.php?ind=downloads&op=section_view&idev=8)

If you ever decide to race on the moon because i dont think silverstone will be used for a while:D

[bigred5765]

lol so true lee, i seen smoother farmers fields lol

[bigred5765]

+++++

[super__dan]

I know Chris is getting an X5, is he considering an X6 too?

[Lee]

Chris was super happy with the way the x6 went, i think he will have one before long.

Here is my setup as promised:

Front:

Silver springs, 35wt ae oil ,losi red piston. 2spacers internal.
camber link inside on hub and shocktower mounting position.
-1 deg camber
0 deg toe in/out
30 deg caster blocks
shock pos. middle hole on tower inside on wishbone
outer row of spikes off front tyres

Rear:

silver spring 30wt ae oil, losi red piston.
camber link outer hole inboard and outside on the hub
0 deg anti squat (2 thick spacers)
.009 shims under gearbox
shock pos. 2nd hole from inside on tower middle on wishbone.
short wheelbase on hub and wishbone
-1 deg camber
wing forward as far as possible

no extra weight added.

Lee

[bigred5765]

+++++

[Doomanic]

Has anyone got a good X-5 set up for Coventry's astro?
Bit short notice I know...:rolleyes:

[jasonrcb]

dom use the same set up as your xx4 shut your eyes and hope for the best :D

[paulo]

HI

I am looking for some advise on what gearing to run my x5 squared on for this weekend at our first regional and also the first time with this car in anger as so far I have only been able to is make sure it works

I'm running a 10x2 peak vantage motor with a Novak GTX speedo
The car has got a 104 tooth spur.

The track is astroturf and is being held at the Eastracks if this helps.

Many thanks in advance.

[bigred5765]

start around 18 and go up to 21-22 may be depending on the track keep a eye on the heat of the speedo

[super__dan]

Actually when I ran brushed I was rarely on anything higher than a 17-18. Defo start at the bottom end of the range and work up.

[SHY]

Ellis, could you be so kind as to post your setups for the X-6 and X-5 from this track?

We have the Nordic Championship there in june...

[Big E]

Here you go Shy, but my set ups are way different now as I have learnt a lot more about the cars since.

I have put them in but also how I have been running the cars recently that to be honest I would be tempted to try first if I was to go there again.

E.

[Arn0]

My bad! Delete!

[SHY]

Ellis, thank you so much for your help! :thumbsup:

[Big E]

No problems;)

[SHY]

Ellis, was this the tires allowed also for the EC?

2WD Modified Rear:


Pro-Line Hole Shot LP (#8184)
Schumacher Mini-Pin (U6602)

4WD Modified Rear:


Pro-Line Hole Shot LP (#8184)
Schumacher Mini-Pin (U6602)

[gordy]

Just looking at Ellis's Bury metro set up, it says he uses red rear pistons drilled. Any body know what they should be drilled out to? And I take it it's all three holes that are drilled?
Cheers

[bigred5765]

what he means is the natural colored piston drill out to the red piston size, it just gives a more accurate hole size,

[Big E]

Ellis, was this the tires allowed also for the EC?

2WD Modified Rear:


Pro-Line Hole Shot LP (#8184)
Schumacher Mini-Pin (U6602)
4WD Modified Rear:


Pro-Line Hole Shot LP (#8184)
Schumacher Mini-Pin (U6602)


Yeah they were the bad boys :)

[Big E]

Just looking at Ellis's Bury metro set up, it says he uses red rear pistons drilled. Any body know what they should be drilled out to? And I take it it's all three holes that are drilled?
Cheers


I just run a straight forward red now, saves hassle which I like to not have :woot:

[Chrislong]

Hey Gordy,
For racing at Bury, look at Ellis's setup he used for Oswestry 2008 (last week). I have been running it all through last week at Bury, and today at Southport, and all I can say is: Wow [Both thumbs up] :thumbsup:

[gordy]

Thanks for the replies guys, I’m actually looking for a set up for ledbury. But as it’s a new track, theres none for it yet.
For those that don’t know, it’s 90% grass, with dirt sections and fairly bumpy. Can anyone suggest an X6 set up similar for these track conditions

[Chrislong]

Hi Mate,
Still, run the setup for Oswestry 2008, it'll be dialled.

[mattym0310]

where is this setup chris?

[super__dan]

The one from post 56, but obviously yellows if it's dry

[mattym0310]

Thanks Dan, I wasn't sure which setup it was, but I got it now :)

Where can I get an anti-rollbar from Ellis?

[Big E]

The parts to fit it are just a Losi roll bar kit but the actual bar you need to make yourself I am afraid.

Must get on to Chazz about doing a kit :thumbsup:

I don't always run it though, didn't use it at Os in the end.

E.

[Chrislong]

Im not running it either.

[mattym0310]

ohright okay, so is the start setup form oswestry the final setup? [minus the roll bar]

[Big E]

No the final set up was all that is there on that set up minus the roll bar, fully short wheelbase and the espeed hangers pointing down.

The roll bar is worth having but it is not used all the time.

E.

[mattym0310]

okay, thanks very much for your help ellis! :D

[njt]

does anyone have picture of the anti rollbar fitted to the x6 ? just to give some idea of how it fits,

[janus_77]

a Starting setup for Kampenhout '08

Its the neutral, easy to drive, setup. Use ride height to adjust for your steering needs

[Gayo]

Cheers Janus! I have a few questions if you don't mind.

What would/do you change (if any) if you use old school 6-cells power?
Could you post a pic of your dremeled staggers ? I have never seen the diagonal cut. More grip, I guess?

Thanks!

[janus_77]

I only got one pic, and its not very good. ( Hé I'm not Jimmy, I'm sorry )

it has an extra cut in the round sidewall of the stagger, to give it an extra rib.

for 6 cell, no lead near motor, only 15 in front, maybe a bit thicker shock oil (i'm talking 2,5 here)

[Gayo]

Thank you :thumbsup:

[janus_77]

2 new pics of the front tires that are...., well less bad than the 1st one anyway :rolleyes:

[super__dan]

They look good, but I hate the small of cutting staggers, how much for a ready made set when I arrive on the Thursday? :)

[janus_77]

They look good, but I hate the small of cutting staggers, how much for a ready made set when I arrive on the Thursday? :)

Just toss a set on "the pile" on Thursday, one set more or less is not going to make a difference ;-)

[Gayo]

How many sets do you need for the race, Janus ?:confused:

[super__dan]

What an absolute legend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

[janus_77]

One set can get you though the day, but most guys in the faster mains (c-main and better) will use new tires for the main's.

But ofcourse there are some exeptions that will only use tires 2 times.

[Lee]

But ofcourse there are some exeptions that will only use tires 2 times.

Dan does crazy stuff like that, he even used new tyres at a regional the other week :thumbdown: :lol::lol::lol:

[Gayo]

One set can get you though the day, but most guys in the faster mains (c-main and better) will use new tires for the main's.

But ofcourse there are some exeptions that will only use tires 2 times.

Oooow...
I always use one set; Bring on the C main :lol::thumbsup:

[elvo]

What an absolute legend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D


Janus is in love with his Dremel. If you leave stuff near him, chances are that he'll have taken his Dremel to it when you get back. A beer for the first person to spot a non-dremeled part on his car!

[janus_77]

A beer for the first person to spot a non-dremeled part on his car!

ehhh..... the wheel nuts, plate that goes over the servo, turnbuckles..... I think the list pretty much ends there......

[elvo]

I think the list pretty much ends there......

OK no beers then.

[super__dan]

Do I win by having a dremelled servo plate? ;)

PS, if these are good I'm going to try leaving 2 pairs ;)

[gps3300]

Can someone describe in words (or post a piccie) of the rear inner camber link hole Ellis uses on the X5 Oswestry setup?

The setup sheet states holes 1 - 8 , but my car has 11 holes :confused:

[super__dan]

It's bttom row, either outer one or last but outer one I think. The numbers refer to what each one was called on the Losi setup sheet on the xx4

[telboy]

I ran the X6 on saturday with the Hot bodies shocks and the biggest holed pistons they do, running 35wt and a orange spring front and 30wt with pink spring rear. The car was awesome and had loads of grip. I got the 78 spur too and lowered the gearbox, this made a huge difference to the way the car turned into the corners. The X6 is getting better all the time. And it resulted in my best Nat result of the 7th in the G too.
It was so easy to drive, and could've been higher up too if I wasn't attacked in the fastest run which resulted in the plastic nut (that holds the shock on) being stripped off, making the shock come off.....boooo!

Good stuff though.:thumbsup:

Without having to go and buy a new set of losi shock (which I don't want to do), I think the HB shocks are as close as you can get.

[rcracer]

2 new pics of the front tires that are...., well less bad than the 1st one anyway :rolleyes:

are you cutting the rims down to make them slimmer so the tyres seat better ?

[super__dan]

Yeah, glue to outer rib as normal but glue the inner part to the inner edge of the 'middle' rib. So nothing is mounted in the inside 1/3 of the rib. You can just leave it on but it looks gash so most cut it off!

[delanobe]

Looking for a setup for a technical "sand" track for the upcoming Belgian championship but didn't found it?

Could somebody point me in the wright direction?

Thanks! :thumbsup:

[janus_77]

Looking for a setup for a technical "sand" track for the upcoming Belgian championship but didn't found it?

Could somebody point me in the wright direction?

Thanks! :thumbsup:

This is the setup I used in Vlijmen's indoor race's, dirt track, very rutted and bumpy (dont mind the tires, you'll never find these anymore :thumbsup:), but ...ehhmmm.... isn't Arendonk 1st ?

[delanobe]

Thanks for the setup and yes Arendonk is first but for astro the car is dialed :thumbsup:

[timmy121]

anybody know the set up that was in the racer mag

[mattym0310]

It's this one timmy.. see attached :)

[mattym0310]

im pretty sure it is anyway because it's what a lot of people use. It's Ellis' oswestry setup

[timmy121]

alright cool cheers

[Arn0]

Ellis,

Jimmy wrote you get some troubles with your X5 and broken belts, could you explain what was the issues and how you fit it?

Also, would you mind providing setup for both cars?

[Big E]

You have a PM

[kikefu]

And, Ellis, coudl you please tell us what changes did you do to your setup for the euro's track?

Thanks in advance!

[Northy]

Ellis,

I'm in need of more 'turn in', I'm not a keen brake user and like to scrub speed with turn in steering.

I asked Tom but he didn't know :lol:

Any suggestions?

G

[Cockerill]

I asked Tom but he didn't know :lol:

Did you? :confused:

[Lee]

This is where i struggled at the euros G.

I remember when i used toms X5 at southport and it just didnt steer for me, when i asked him what he did for more steering he just said he drives it harder :lol: :thumbsup:


I think your Gay G :p

[Northy]

Did you? :confused:

Yes, it was in the 'what does the 4 washers do?' conversation, I gave up in the end..... :lol:

Lee, you're the BIG homo round here....:p

G

[Lee]

And..... :lol:


Do you mean washers on the inside front camber links :confused:

If so, less washers will give more mid corner steering from what i found, your raising the roll centre by lowering the stud.

[delanobe]

WHat do you guys change on your setup on a wet astro track?

I did the same as on my B4 (softer front spring + ballistic pink fr,re) and the X6 had 0 steering and grip???

[sparrow.2]

Ellis,

I'm in need of more 'turn in', I'm not a keen brake user and like to scrub speed with turn in steering.

I asked Tom but he didn't know :lol:

Any suggestions?

G

Have you tried the inline axles? They give you a little more lively front end or running the axle low in the hub carrier. 30° caster blocks will give you a little more high-speed steering and feel less pointy mid-corner and exit.

Obviously that's assuming you're talking about an X6. If it's 4wd with a one-way you need more throttle :lol:

[Big E]

WHat do you guys change on your setup on a wet astro track?

I did the same as on my B4 (softer front spring + ballistic pink fr,re) and the X6 had 0 steering and grip???

Soften the front spring and then go short wheelbase. If you still need more traction then raise the gearbox a bit. Or make the rear link longer on the tower but only if you have enough steering.

Ellis,

I'm in need of more 'turn in', I'm not a keen brake user and like to scrub speed with turn in steering.

I asked Tom but he didn't know :lol:

Any suggestions?

G

Raise the rear a little or try 3° toe in. Raising the inner camber link will make it more twitchy and also give more out of the turn if that is what you want or maybe try 25° castor blocks.

Come over and see me at some point Saturday G and I will give the car a look over. A lot of people tend to run the rear of the car to low to be honest so it might just be that.

But also use the brakes more, the car is so stable on them it is worth learning to use them more as that will gain you a lot.

E.

[Northy]

Cheers Ellis, I'm a bad lad though and don't run your full setup. I didn't like how the rear end felt on your setup :( I also never got round to changing the front.

If I post what I'm running on here tonight maybe you can give me some tips?

Cheers,

G

[Big E]

I can give one now...run the full set up!!!! :thumbsup::p

[kikefu]

And the setup we're talking about is...??? Oz?!?

Or maybe another?

Is the car loaded with any more weight than the front tower?

Thanks!!!!! ;-)

[Big E]

Yeah pretty much the Oz one but I do play with the wheelbase a little, normally I run either medium or short though.

No extra weight in it anywhere.

E.

[YoungChazz]

I think Paul and the Boyz agree we're very close to two base set-ups (US & UK) that work well for most drivers everywhere.

Just a few changes here or there to suit the odd track or driver. I think Paul told me at the Shoot-Out he ran the same basic set-up there as for an outdoor track in Nashville!

And the Boyz seem to swear by the Big E Oz set-up, and tell me they start there all the time. When we next print instructions, that will be the one.

This is good -- we've got things under control now. LOL

[elvo]

a Starting setup for Kampenhout '08

Its the neutral, easy to drive, setup. Use ride height to adjust for your steering needs


WTF, trailing axles? :thumbdown:

[janus_77]

WTF, trailing axles? :thumbdown:

As stated NEUTRAL, EASY TO DRIVE...... you didn't actually think I myself would use such a setup in racing conditions :eh?:.... you silly boy.....

I of course was using GT2 casterblocks and inlines and all the other stuff that makes a car nearly impossible to drive:thumbsup:. Didn't want to bother "normal drivers" with this insanity



( http://www.one-ten-rcforums.com/2wdrc/viewtopic.php?pid=2834#p2834 )

[Lee]

What angle does using the GT2 blocks give, if i could make mine steer like an animal but keep the rear end locked in and went faster than everyone else lap after lap and didnt make a mistake, i might win :lol:

[Gayo]

hey Janus, can you tell us a little more about those GT2 blocks? I always found the X-6 steering a little dead on astro and indoors (gym floor) at low speeds, although it's perfect for dirt tracks.

Edit: Lee-Mag beat me.

[janus_77]

What angle does using the GT2 blocks give, if i could make mine steer like an animal but keep the rear end locked in and went faster than everyone else lap after lap and didnt make a mistake, i might win :lol:

GT2 casterblocks are availible in 25 and 30 deg (just like the normal ones) but you get an extra hole so you can run a 2-C front camberlink

[SHY]

Did anyone try inlines? The X-6 (or S2) being so stable, it might be possible to handle? You can never ever have too much steering! :thumbsup:

How much is the caster normally on a 4WD? And why the f... don't we ever play around with that???

Go Lee-Mag!!! :lol:

[janus_77]

Did anyone try inlines? The X-6 (or S2) being so stable, it might be possible to handle? You can never ever have too much steering! :thumbsup:

How much is the caster normally on a 4WD? And why the f... don't we ever play around with that???

Inlines: http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=144463&postcount=122 -> yes have been tried, I like it, rest of mankind somehow doesn't

4wd dont need much caster because its 4wd. They have, what, somewhere around 12 deg or something. If you did that to a 2wd it would loose all of its reaction speed.

[Lee]

Janus,

What is your full setup?

I have been thinking of playing with inlines, i like a super sharp car but with stability too. I cant do the point and shoot style, i need to carry corner speed. :cry:

[janus_77]

Janus,

What is your full setup?

Well, you asked for it :rolleyes::wtf:

[SHY]

Inlines: http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=144463&postcount=122 -> yes have been tried, I like it, rest of mankind somehow doesn't

4wd dont need much caster because its 4wd. They have, what, somewhere around 12 deg or something. If you did that to a 2wd it would loose all of its reaction speed.

Why don't 4WDs need as much caster?

I feel that when coasting I'd really like to have a lot more steering with my 4WD...

R-O-R piston???

[sparrow.2]

Why don't 4WDs need as much caster?

I feel that when coasting I'd really like to have a lot more steering with my 4WD...

R-O-R piston???

4WD aren't made for coasting. Even with a one-way, you have to hammer it all the way. Stupid as it sounds, drive it harder and it will feel better...

I think he means Red-Orange-Red, so a Red piston with one hole drilled to the size of the orange piston holes.

@ Janus: are you driving in Arendonk?

[Lee]

R O R is just the 566 piston red hole orange hole red hole. :thumbsup:

I think the caster thing is due to them having more weight up front, cars are also built so joe bloggs can drive them and not for the elite few.

[SHY]

Well, I'm a novice in OR, but I have a lot of track racing experience. And you for sure do benefit from caster in 4WD track racing. So I just don't see why it can't be the same for 4WD OR...

And in some corners you HAVE to coast :D

[sparrow.2]

And in some corners you HAVE to coast :D

That's only because you haven't hit the brakes and swung it round hard enough at the beginning of the corner :p

How is married life? Congratulations by the way :thumbsup:

[SHY]

Thx! It's great! :wub

Now you're being oldfashioned! :p These days you don't hit the brakes, you just steer and let tyre friction do the job (not always of course)... it's more consistent and gives better laptimes!

If you brake hard you'll be more or less standing still at some point = slower than always being on the move

[Lee]

SHY, when you watch all the top boys they all use the brakes, a lot will even use a diff up front so they can use the brakes. Granted they still carry a lot of corner speed but it just means they can go faster for longer coming into a corner.

[sparrow.2]

I didn't mean throw an anchor :D
Just unsettle the car enough to swing the back end round and then hit the gas and let the oneway pull you through the corner. Only works with a oneway and mainly on dirt. Modern 4WD's feel as though the back end was just flopping along as an afterthought anyway...

[Lee]

Multiple European A finalist and Xfactory superstar Tom Cockerill was just saying that.:thumbsup:

He said the back end always feels light;)

Thought i should let you know :thumbsup:

[bigred5765]

you like a light rear end lee, or something with a bit of weight in it, ?:)

[Northy]

So, what about getting me more 'turn in'? :confused:

On the X-6 that is......

G

[Lee]

you like a light rear end lee, or something with a bit of weight in it, ?:)

Im not fussed carl as long as it does not break away :lol:

Standing the rear shocks up one hole would do it G or going to a red rear spring:thumbsup:

[sparrow.2]

He said the back end always feels light;)

Is that before or after you've had a go??? :wtf:

[Lee]

We shared a room, that was it, i promise :lol::lol:

[Northy]

I'm already stood up one hole on the rear shocks, also middle on the wishbone - i just find that gives it more side bite and a more predictable slide when it does go.

Front end, that I can remember:

Std Oz shocks, std Oz positions
25 degree blocks
Steering arm trailing - spaced middle in castor block
Link: Outer block - Outer tower
1 washer under inner stud

It was ok at Batley, but I was getting raped in the 180 turns along the back section - and there was a lot of them :cry: I really had to chuck it in, almost a scandy flick was required! :lol:

[Lee]

raise the gearbox a touch, i think that will make it rotate a bit more?

what wheelbase?

what do you find the difference is by moving the castor block forward?

[Northy]

Er....gearbox is already raised a bit, maybe 0.75mm I think.

Wheelbase, short - short.

Castor block? :bored:

G

[Lee]

with the castor block thing, my theory is, your taking the weight off the front end by moving the blocks forwards, less steering and turn in, i may have it totally wrong but thats the way the brain is thinking right now.

Long will give you some more steering too . I think im going to give inlines a go though this weekend in one of the practices. That should liven things up a bit :lol:

[Northy]

I'm poor and don't have any inlines :(

G

[millzy]

could go hard core like i did and stick b3 bits on the front

cut the front blocks down , drill out the holes for the king pin and fit a b3 kingpin ball stud with b4 inline axels


you would need to find the b3 bits mind and it took me ages to get some

ran this at cml one winter snaped the chassis and the car was never run again so never got to test it big time but it felt ok

i allways thought the standing the shocks up gave more grip less stability?

[kikefu]

More turn in? 30º caster blocks. Why are you using 25º? Are there many sweepers?

[bigred5765]

Standing the rear shocks up one hole would do it G or going to a red rear spring:thumbsup:
Sounds painfull,:lol:

[janus_77]

@ Sparrow: Yep Arendonk this weekend, I will be there.

@ Lee: moving the castor block forward (with inline) and running short wheelbase rear, is having a relative long wheelbase with little weight up front so it can still change direction swiftly. Makes the car feel more alive, and it also helps drive comming out of the corners.

@ Kikefu: 25 deg has more steering in the middle and end of the corner, only time I use 30 is if I have trouble getting on the throttle at the end of a corner. Most of the time the higher corner speed you can get by using 25 outweighs the faster reaction you can get from using 30's (even though most of the time the 30's will FEEL faster).

[sparrow.2]

@ Sparrow: Yep Arendonk this weekend, I will be there.

@ Lee: moving the castor block forward (with inline) and running short wheelbase rear, is having a relative long wheelbase with little weight up front so it can still change direction swiftly. Makes the car feel more alive, and it also helps drive comming out of the corners.


Doesn't the steering mess up on the bottom of the arm then?

Just applied for my Belgian federation license :thumbsup: See you at the weekend.

[janus_77]

Doesn't the steering mess up on the bottom of the arm then?

Just applied for my Belgian federation license :thumbsup: See you at the weekend.

Dont use a nut at the bottom of the steering block, and use a bit of droop limiting to stop it hitting the arm when steering.

[langers]

are you running the front shocks lower mount in outer hole have you tried the inner hole as on b4

[JustARcFan]

I'm a bit confused about these trailing axles and inline axles.

I"ve seen several setup's from Ellis and he never uses inline axles and seems like he's driving the X6 pretty well :eh?:

So what is the story here??

[blitzboy]

right whats the difference now guys going to the squared for shock positions and is the oz set up still about right to start from thanks g

[jono83]

right whats the difference now guys going to the squared for shock positions and is the oz set up still about right to start from thanks g


the x6 and x6squared have the same geometry so i would imagine so

[Sebastian]

the x6 and x6squared have the same geometry so i would imagine so

Na, not really. See original X-6 shocktower in the rear and and the X-6 Squared one in front.

[bigred5765]

****

[super__dan]

Sebastian is right the geometry is different but the intention of the revised shock tower was to replicate the same wheel rates on the squared but with using the new flat/reversable wishbones.

As such the rear of my car is setup exactly the same as the old one. My front end has weight and is slightly softer spring and oil wise than before since now running LIPO. I've only ran it once outdoors so far this year (yesterday at Batley) where the car was EXCELLENT.

[ben44]

Dear,

I would like to know, if i use this part.

http://www.xfactoryrc.com/Images/ESBallStudExtenders.jpg

Like what they say i will turn better, but did i loose some grip at the rear?

I don't have any option on my X6², this one was it important?

[pizzaman]

hi, as ne1 got a good starting setup for outdoors at southport for x6 squared,running sphere comp x11 6.5 bonded,have got rear big E rear camber links an bk2 axles,losi shocks also using trakpower 4900 lipo.thanks in advance

[YoungChazz]

Ben44, there is much discussion of the E-Speed Camber Link Extenders on another thread in the X Factory section. They work very well on high-grip tracks, such as are found in U.K. Ellis designed them and has stated on that thread exactly the advantages.

On the rough, dusty outdoor tracks often found here in the U.S. we rarely use them.

Therefore, they are a tuning option you will use on some tracks and not on others. All X Team drivers have them, no matter where they are in the world, and all have found tracks where the extenders work well and other tracks where the extenders are not so good.

We think we have produced the most adjustable car out there so you can make it perfect for your style and your track. For the X Team drivers, that work is half the fun!

[Jony P]

2 new pics of the front tires that are...., well less bad than the 1st one anyway :rolleyes:


This is a question for WELL back in the thread but why do people cut stagger ribs??

What's the theory??

[Jony P]

to use on an X-6^2 obviously lol. (as this is the "X factory bit)

[super__dan]

To get just a little bit more steering out of them.

[Jony P]

lol. cool all good thanks. see you at talywain

[bald eagle]

Anybody got a base set up for astro turf? racing at kiddy on sunday... cheers in advance :thumbsup:

[Lee]

Craig, if you stick Ellis' Oz setup this will be a great start. I would advise this setup for anyone on any of our outdoor tracks, it just works and is 90% there, just fine tuning for you and the conditions on the day. Just a change of spring here or anti squat there and Ellis's thumbs and you should be on for TQ :lol:

[bald eagle]

Cheers Lee. :thumbsup:

[super__dan]

Agreed, it is THE base setup for anything we race on in the uk on mini spikes!

[Jony P]

guys, stupid one

where will i find el's oz base set up??

ta.:thumbsup:

[Big E]

Here :woot:

Just a couple of tweaks from back then for the Squared but this is what I generally start with at all tracks.

E.

[stikkan1]

Why are most of the settup sheets with losi shocks?
Are they better in some track conditions?

(waiting for the mail man.... will an x6,2 fit the mailbox?)

[Lee]

It depends how big your mailbox is :thumbsup:

In the UK most of the testing has been done with losi shocks, i believe they are a slightly "nicer" shock compared to AE. I have used AE shocks too and they were fine but there is no point in working on your own when the rest of the team are running another shock.

I know BK is using kyosho, maybe these could be the way to go in the future :confused:

[Jony P]

Here :woot:

Just a couple of tweaks from back then for the Squared but this is what I generally start with at all tracks.

E.


Top man cheers Ellis :thumbsup:

See you soon

[SHY]

Ellis, do you have revised base set-ups for both cars with LiPo fitted?

(Maybe it's time for a revised set-up sheet with indications of where & how much weight is added?)

Cheers

[Cockerill]

Ellis, do you have revised base set-ups for both cars with LiPo fitted?

(Maybe it's time for a revised set-up sheet with indications of where & how much weight is added?)

Cheers

Ellis has posted a 2wd setup above in post #174. This setup is used by pretty much the whole team now. We aim for a total weight of around 1700g with a 35/65 weight distribution.

I've attached my 4wd setup from this weekend. It's been working well for the last few weeks at several different tracks and is now what I start with at each track.

[SHY]

Thanks a lot! :thumbsup:

So the 4WD is down to a minimum weight. But loads of ballast on the 2WD...

Do you guys also run a heavy car on astro with high grip level? (I guess grass tracks have tons of grip as well?)

Is it the "float" through bumps that make you pros go for a heavy 2WD?

I've heard that Lee Martin ran a very lightweight B4 at the Players (just above min. weight) - is that correct? I'm surprised the X-6 then cannot do even better with a light configuration :confused:

(I'll test your setups and do laptime comparisons)

Sidetrack: I cannot get a gain from a front one-way, so I wonder if my driving style needs to be changed. When coasting with a diff vs. one-way I feel no difference. And if you apply throttle it just pushes out. Whilst a diff makes the car much more stable under acceleration on bumpy and/or uphill parts. (I typically brake, then just coast) Do you guys kinda rally style set up the car before the corner and then "power slide" through the corners with the one-way?

[Lee]

Tom has a very aggressive style of driving, his car never has all the wheels on the ground, some call it "crisis management". On the other hand i have a very smooth style and hardly ever use full throttle and thats probably why im slower :lol: but i feel the one way suits me best as well it just pulls better out of the corner and feels nicer. The only quick way to drive these cars is using the brakes, i have tried over the winter and also rally x is helping me to do this.

One thing i was told by bradders that stuck in my head was, you never see rossi or hamilton coasting up to a corner, they are either on the power or on the brakes. :thumbsup:

[Kopite]

Tom has a very aggressive style of driving, his car never has all the wheels on the ground, some call it "crisis management". On the other hand i have a very smooth style and hardly ever use full throttle and thats probably why im slower :lol: but i feel the one way suits me best as well it just pulls better out of the corner and feels nicer. The only quick way to drive these cars is using the brakes, i have tried over the winter and also rally x is helping me to do this.

One thing i was told by bradders that stuck in my head was, you never see rossi or hamilton coasting up to a corner, they are either on the power or on the brakes. :thumbsup:

Rossi or Hamilton don't have Talywain style bumps and jumps to contend with mate. I'm all for the diff in the front!!!

[SHY]

Thx! I'll try 10x cups of coffee and some RedBulls before I start driving then :D

And where can I get a cool & good LiPo brace for the X-5 now? DMS? A-C? NorTech? (webshop)

Does DMS carry Schumi tyres btw?

[Darren Boyle]

Hi SHY, long time no speak....

We have a LIPO barce on its way for the X5 Sq, should be here any day now...

And yes we dos tock the full range of Schumacher tyres too, just kept supply you the required Red Bull!!

Cheers, Darren

[SHY]

Life's busy :D

Can I pre order it on your webshop?

We ran the first Nats round this weekend and 3x X-6s were in the A final. The two "newbies" to it seemed to like it a lot! :thumbsup:

[Cockerill]

I run a one-way almost exclusively in 4wd, I just can't get the hang of running a normal diff. I'm going to try it again soon though.

Ellis ran a similar setup on Sunday to what I posted, except he was using a normal diff and his car was quick too, so it can work with both.

Regarding the weight. Ellis has done a lot of work with the X6 over winter and found that the car just seems to be better at higher weights. With the added lead, it also allows us to easily change the weight distribution when it rains and the track becomes slick, which is a major advantage for us.

With the X5 I have some weights made that can be added to it to increase the weight, but so far have found it more responsive and generally better without them so I don't use any extra weight.

[SHY]

Yeah, 4WD is really great I think with the lower weight! You can really abuse them without them traction rolling now!

So when slippery you... move weight to the rear of the X-6?

I tested my X-6 at 1860 grams, with the brass bulkhead + lead behind servo, under ESC in the middle, and under the batteries... and I could hardly drive it! It spun around easily, and was hard to get over the jumps. Took away all the weights >> ten times better!

This was on a packed dirt track with some carpet. Med grip. Setup orange springs front, yellow in the back. Red pistons front/rear. Otherwise std. Ellis setup.

This weekend on astro I found the read end to bee a bit to soft. Making it bottom out in the rear after one jump. And generally a bit too lively. Tried with harder rear springs, but it didn't help that much. And the car looks VERY high on the track whilst the B4s are flat as pancakes...

[Cockerill]

Yeh, when it's slippery we move the weight to the back. I personally take 65g out from under the servo and put 65g in under the battery.

That sounds like you had a lot of weight up front. With a Trishbits Brass Bulkhead (43g) I had to run very little other weight to get the correct distribution (35/65). This is probably why it spun so easily.

I think I've always run a pink rear spring, even on dirt, and normally a black front spring on high grip. For lower grip/dirt I'd probably start with Ellis' standard setup but a green front spring and 65-67% rear weight, still at 1700g+.

We also tend to run quite high around 25mm. Again Ellis found that this made the car better over bumps and stopped the car leaning over in corners as much, and without grip rolling.

[Lee]

Tom, have you tried the cells in the X5 like i ran at southport? I gave it a run the other week and it all felt good, i also went to a red spring up front and it was really nice, it didn't snatch like it was with the greens and blues :thumbsup:

[Gayo]

God dag SHY, good to see you back here!

You can find lightweight setups on 2wdrc.com and on RC Tech. I tried to use them on Astro tracks, take a look at this thread :
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20925



Sidetrack: I cannot get a gain from a front one-way, so I wonder if my driving style needs to be changed. When coasting with a diff vs. one-way I feel no difference. And if you apply throttle it just pushes out. Whilst a diff makes the car much more stable under acceleration on bumpy and/or uphill parts. (I typically brake, then just coast) Do you guys kinda rally style set up the car before the corner and then "power slide" through the corners with the one-way?

Regarding one-ways, I have found that one-way diffs are good on grippy tracks but makes my car understeer horribly on slick, dusty tracks when applying throttle out of the corner. The front end acts like a spool and just slides out. You can overcome this by throwing the car on the corner and power slide it like you say, but I can't do it lap after lap, so front diff for me. Center one-ways don't act the same as there is no spool effect coming out of the corner.

Hope this helps :D

[SHY]

@Cockerill: Aha!!! So away with the brass bulkhead then! It all makes sense now :D

@Gayo: Bonjour mon ami! Exactly! I did the same conclusion, especially in the finals it's so much easier to fight for positions with a diff up front. With the one-way I've got enough with keeping my own shit together :D

Thx guys!

[SHY]

When using Ellis' setup the X-6 has bump-in steer and camber change. Is that right?

[grelland]

We ran the first Nats round this weekend and 3x X-6s were in the A final. The two "newbies" to it seemed to like it a lot! :thumbsup:

I am one of the newbies, and I did indeed like the car a lot, I actually ALMOST beat SHY ;)

I have had no time to test the car, and certainly not on astro, but I ended up using Ellis's "base" setup, but with silver springs up front for a litlle bit more steering. I actually ran the car 15g over the minimum weight limit, with some lead under the esc.

Only thing I felt was that the car bottomed out on the heaviest landings.

We also had rain in the last a-main, and it seemed that my car handled the slippery conditions far better than both the B4s and the other X6s, maybe because of the weight??

[super__dan]

I would say that if you're that light you dont have enough lead in the FRONT (hence feeling the need for silver springs), which is what we do in the rain. So you've effectivly set it up perfectly for the rain, that also goes pretty well in the dry.

[Lee]

Where are people getting their lead plates from?

[jono83]

i have got loads pm if you want

[Big E]

I would say that if you're that light you dont have enough lead in the FRONT (hence feeling the need for silver springs), which is what we do in the rain. So you've effectivly set it up perfectly for the rain, that also goes pretty well in the dry.

As Dan says for dirt or a slick track I would run my car with a lot less front weight, I would either move it to the rear or remove it all together.

But for a high bite track load up the front.

Lee you should have lead flashing on your house, just trim some off :woot:

[grelland]

Thanks,

back to SHY's comment, his car looked really high on the track, yes, and mine was a lot lower, but as you mentioned, before the rain came, the grip was good, and I did experience a lot of traction roll, especially in the high speed sweeper...

Looks like I have found a good wet/slippery-setup then :) Just need to work on the high-grip one.

BTW, this forum is really helpful :)

[J_WOODY]

Could someone post Big E's setup, the file wont work on my pc.

thanks, Jay:thumbsup:

[Lee]

Here you go, the document was protected so i couldn't copy and paste :(

Front

Ride Height Arms level 25mm
Camber -1
Toe out 1 deg
Camber link 2B with 2 washers
Caster block 30deg (forward)
2 bump steer spacers 0 inside
Trailing axle (low)
Ackerman (forward)
Servo forward

Losi Shocks

Mounting 2/2

Black spring
35wt/red piston
No limiters

Rear

Transmission height (lowest) 0 spacers
Ride height arms level 25mm
camber -1
4 deg toe
0 anti squat shims. 4 deg
Camber link E speed High / C on hub
Wheelbase Hub forward wishbone back

Shocks

Pink spring
25wt / red piston

Mounting 1/1

[J_WOODY]

thanks Lee, thats a big help :thumbsup:

[Kopite]

can anyone tell me whether they've tried the following on the X6/X6sq (with how they found it went too)...

25 degree castor blocks
inline axles

[Mike Hudson]

25deg blocks come standard, I ran alloy versions of them on the X6 all last year and they suited most places for me, I tried the inline axles which gave me more aggressive steering but less straight line stability and found the car easier to drive with the stardard axles.

[Lee]

can anyone tell me whether they've tried the following on the X6/X6sq (with how they found it went too)...

25 degree castor blocks
inline axles

To be honest i didn't notice a massive difference going from 25 to 30 deg blocks, i think i only went to 30 because i was struggling at the euros. inline axles were something Tom and myself were talking about last summer, we both said we would try it but never did. I know one of the Belgian guys uses inline axles to good effect though :thumbsup:

[Kopite]

I've only ran the 25's once, and took them off cos i thought they were a bit gay, but i do want to try them again, as my car wasn't set up properly then. I really can't remember which way on the castor does what (many differing opinions)

Also, can anyone explain why the inline axles make the steering more aggressive?

[stegger]

The 25° caster blocks are recommended in most cases.
• Use 30° of caster (optional #9593 caster blocks) if you need
increased steering entering corners and less steering exiting corners. It
will also be more stable when accelerating through fast bumpy track
conditions.
• Use 25° of caster (#9580 caster blocks) if you need less
amount of steering entering corners than the 30° blocks, but more
steering in the middle and exiting corners.
• Use 20° of caster (optional #9592 caster blocks) if you need
even less steering entering corners and more steering exiting corners.:thumbsup: All out of my head :lol:

[Kopite]

The 25° caster blocks are recommended in most cases.

• Use 30° of caster (optional #9593 caster blocks) if you need
increased steering entering corners and less steering exiting corners. It
will also be more stable when accelerating through fast bumpy track
conditions.
• Use 25° of caster (#9580 caster blocks) if you need less
amount of steering entering corners than the 30° blocks, but more
steering in the middle and exiting corners.
• Use 20° of caster (optional #9592 caster blocks) if you need
even less steering entering corners and more steering exiting corners.:thumbsup: All out of my head :lol:



lol, you fibber, that's straight out of the b4 setup guide :woot:

[stegger]

lol, you fibber, that's straight out of the b4 setup guide :woot:

:woot: found me out !!!

[Lee]

Scousers will nick anything :lol:

[Mike Hudson]

can anyone explain why the inline axles make the steering more aggressive?

the trailing blocks are favoured on high grip tracks, the inline axles give a more aggesive feeling, steering entering and exiting corners is increased but straight line stability is reduced don't know how else you want it explaining? Not going to go into the math behind it I'll let the Xfactor boys do that :thumbsup:

[Lee]

Not going to go into the math behind it I'll let the Xfactor boys do that :thumbsup:

I doubt even Simon Cowell knows :lol:

[Kopite]

yeah, i was kinda hoping for an explanation as to why inlines are more aggressive. just curious really

[Richard Lowe]

My guess is that with the trailing axles the whole car has to move left and right as the wheels turn, dulling initial turn-in. If anything technically I'd say the trailing axles are less aggressive than the neutral inline's.

Inlines are the future :thumbsup:

[Kopite]

that's got to be worth a go! :thumbsup:

[stegger]

Me again:lol:
Your front axle position affects how your car will steer. The
standard trailing axle is behind (fig. 1) the kingpin and makes for less
aggressive steering. The optional inline axle steering block lines up
with the kingpin and causes the steering to be more aggressive.
When should I change the steering blocks?
The trailing steering blocks (#9581, top of fig. 2) should be used
in most cases. The Team especially recommends the trailing blocks on
high-grip or “blue-groove”.
• Changing to the optional inline steering blocks (#9577, bottom
of fig. 2) will give the car an overall more aggressive steering feeling.
Steering entering and exiting the corners is increased, and straight line
stability is slightly reduced. You’ll also need optional inline axle
#9623.

[SHY]

This is how it works:

The trailing axles are behind the "real" center of the kinpin. And that will force the wheels to turn outwards (left to left, right to right), keeping them very tight & stable. Since they are "pushed against the steering rods". When checking toe-in (or out) you should always roll the car forward a little to see the "tru toe".

With inlines there's no stabilizing effect. It's wobbly wobbly... :D

(Correct me if I'm wrong)

But does it really steer more? Isn't it just quicker steering "reaction"?

[SHY]

Hi SHY, long time no speak....

We have a LIPO barce on its way for the X5 Sq, should be here any day now...

And yes we dos tock the full range of Schumacher tyres too, just kept supply you the required Red Bull!!

Cheers, Darren

ETA LiPo brace?

Pics of it?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture016.jpg
Like this?

[super__dan]

Yeah me too boss???

[mark christopher]

any one got a good starting set up for the x6 square for an outdoor virgin?

[Lee]

Ellis' setup

http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=241115&postcount=200

[mark christopher]

Ellis' setup

http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=241115&postcount=200


Cheers Lee

[Darren Boyle]

ETA LiPo brace?

Pics of it?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/super__dan/Picture016.jpg
Like this?

Similiar to the above picture (not quite the same) but looks much better (IMHO) ETA is approc 3/4 days now..... Price £TBC

Darren

[xavi]

I would like to know through your astroturf experience this questions about X6:

As you know next weekend will be Warm-up Euros at Bilbao.
I am not sure but It will be 80% astro-turf and 20% vegetable ground

The control tyre are Schumacher mini spike 2

For the rear tyres what spike file do you recomend to cut? What's the handling diference?

The front tyres are not slim, are U6557,little wider (too much grip?). What spike file do you recomend to cut? What's the handling difference too?

Thanx

[Lee]

Sometimes i will cut the outer row of spikes off the rear tyres if i am getting grip roll. Are those minispikes fronts quoted in the part number? If so then on a dry astro track i will cut upto the inner and outer rows off to tame the front end. I doubt a stagger rib works very well on grass/vegetable ground so i think you would need a spike :)

[xavi]

The U6557 is the recomended compound.

Now I realize Mini Spike 2 has not slim type tyre :confused:
What Schumacher front tyre do you use at BRCA nationals?

[Darren Boyle]

Similiar to the above picture (not quite the same) but looks much better (IMHO) ETA is approc 3/4 days now..... Price £TBC

Darren

First batch of X5 Sq battery straps have been depsatched from the supplier this morning, shgould reach us now either tommorow or monday, pictures will be posted when they reach us.

Confirmed price is £23.99 and it will be available through oursleves and all good X-Factory UK stockists as from the middle of next week.

[Lee]

The U6557 is the recomended compound.

Now I realize Mini Spike 2 has not slim type tyre :confused:
What Schumacher front tyre do you use at BRCA nationals?

That part number is the yellow minispike, that is what most people would use at the nats. (dry)

I would assume it will be the tyre to use in spain as well, it doesn't rain there does it :lol:

I would start with a full front tyre and maybe take the outside row off if there is too much bite and then the inside row if you need too :)

[xavi]

Thanks Lee I will try that way.

[grelland]

Hi guys, I have a question for you regarding the setup of my X6.

Last Wednesday I ran in a local race in the neighbour club, and this was my first time on a dirt track with the X6. I did experience some understeer, but that is probably because I still have too much rear bias on the weight ditribution.

But to my question:

The track is a LAAAAARGE one designed for 1/8 scale cars, and each lap takse about one minute (...) but the issue I had was that on the straight the surface is quite good, but it has some large bumps (some 1-2 m long), which caused the car to start bouncing and if I was too heavy on the throttle, it basically bounced right off the track... I wetched some of the other cars, and they were a lot more planted, and could maintan a higher speed.

One former X-6 driver suggested going down to 20 wt oil in the rear (I am basically running the Ellis setup with AE shocks, using LOSI red pistons in the rear.)

I also though about the fact that before the last race, I limited the down-travel in the rear shocks with 3mm spacers, since I used the original AE driveshafts. Could it be that the reduced droop is what is causing the problems?

I have the finals of this race (the race is dvided in two: qualifying one week, then finals two weeks later :D ) coming up next week, but I have no chance of getting any practice done, so I thougfh someone in here could point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance.

[grelland]

Oh well, since you guys probably were out racing instead of checking the forum, did I update the setup with 20wt oil in the rear, removed the 3mm down stops (I have the longer axles now) and I also moved the weight forward, so I am currently at 64/36, total weight 1580g

Hope it will be better :D

[YoungChazz]

Grelland, the dirt-track set-up is far different from the U.K grass-astro set-up. Different springs, oil & pistons, camber links, even the amount of weight we are running. Check http://www.2wdrc.com/tech/SetupSheets.htm for at least 5 set-ups from 2009 from Kinwald, Griffin, Sinclair, Sava, and Galan.

The first four are all U.S. dirt track set-ups, I think Eduardo's is for dirt with astro on the jumps.

[grelland]

Thanks, I will look into this, but bare in mind that the US dirt tracks are far from what we have here in Norway, check out these pics from last years Nats round at my local track....

[super__dan]

Is that 2nd picture not the surface of the moon???

[Lee]

I echo Dan's sentiments entirely, i really wouldn't be disappointed if my car bounced around on half buried rocks. The X6 is one of the best balanced cars around but on tracks like that you really are fighting an uphill battle. The cars were not designed to take punishment like that.

[Paul_Sinclair]

Thanks, I will look into this, but bare in mind that the US dirt tracks are far from what we have here in Norway, check out these pics from last years Nats round at my local track....

Not all US tracks are like you see at the Cactus or Shootout; I've definitely raced on my share of blown out, super-loamy outdoor tracks (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giGnDnGwCeY). I have not had to deal with those rocks though. I would strongly recommend starting with either Brian Kinwald's or Dan Griffin's setups from the set-up page Chazz linked to; the team here in the states has been very successful with those set-ups outdoors, and its very similar to what Stefan and Elvo have been running in Belgium on their dirt tracks. Good luck to you!

[grelland]

Thanks guys. I will have a go, and update you next week after the race :)

I also have to say that these pics were for illustration purpose only, it is from my home track, while the race next week is on a different one that is much better maintained.

[grelland]

Just a short note to say that after changing my setup according to your recommondations, I felt like I was driving a completely new car :)

I now use Losi shocks, and the car behaved beatutifully, and now I can only blame my driving skills for ending up just ouside the posium last night.

But the car felt extremely planted and stable, especially over the bumpy sections. I even convinced my racing friend here to convert his B4, so that's how good it was :)

Thanks again guys.

Roy

[captain kirk]

hi

I run my x5 squared at dms model car club which is a very tight high grip track (carpet)(running yellow mini pins), its also completly flat only 2 or 3 jumps with only 1 slippy corner and a few bot dots any ideas on setup wood be great thanks

[captain kirk]

any one ????

[Big E]

This is how I have been running my car recently outdoors and should be a reasonable start point.

I know the red front spring may seem strange but it is actually pretty easy on the steering with it.

However for indoors maybe the following would help as well if the car is not so good with this set up:

Harder springs front and rear, maybe a silver or green front and a pink/red rear.
Move the shocks out on the wishbones, limit the droop a little.
Front and rear roll bars.

Although this is not a carpet setup I'm sure you can get it somewhere near with this and the above notes.

E.

[Body Paint]

That is very close to how I run my car on a similar tight carpet track.

A couple of changes, pretty much what E says.

green front spring middle hole on wishbone,
pink rear spring, outer hole on xxxcr rear wishbone
diff in the front
front and rear anti roll bar

I'm not a fan of E's soft front springs, I find that the front end seems to wash out as the front drops all the way to the deck in fast corners. Maybe it's just that E and Tom are better at crisis management than I am, but red springs front springs are not for me.

[rcracer]

Have any of you guys who have run there x5's on th RHR track sussed out any sort of starting set up ?
Neil..

[matdodd]

I dont think any of the team have run there yet :eh?:

[captain kirk]

cheers ellis and craig well be giving it a go to morrow

[rcracer]

I dont think any of the team have run there yet :eh?:

Wasnt sure if Tom or Dan had done any testing :eh?:

[matdodd]

Id say go for the setup E has posted above.
Thats close to Toms base setup so should give you a good starting point!

[rcracer]

Ok thanks Mat

[super__dan]

Wasnt sure if Tom or Dan had done any testing :eh?:

Afraid not

[Cockerill]

Wasnt sure if Tom or Dan had done any testing :eh?:

I've had a couple of runs there after work days, and I've been running a setup very similar to what E posted, just with the std steering (I plan on trying the E-Speed one again this weekend), std height front link and 40wt oil in the front.

This is what I'll start with at the regional.

[grelland]

Grelland, the dirt-track set-up is far different from the U.K grass-astro set-up. Different springs, oil & pistons, camber links, even the amount of weight we are running. Check http://www.2wdrc.com/tech/SetupSheets.htm for at least 5 set-ups from 2009 from Kinwald, Griffin, Sinclair, Sava, and Galan.

The first four are all U.S. dirt track set-ups, I think Eduardo's is for dirt with astro on the jumps.

A few weeks back, I had some questions on my X6-setup, and as I reported back, the car behaved very well after the suggested changes.

Now, last week, we ran a club race again, and the dirt surface is very hard, with som loose gravel/dust on top, and with the next race coming up this Thursday, and no rain on the weather forecast, I expect the conditions to be very similar.

My problem last week, was that the rear grip is really good (using ProLine Bow-ties), and the car feels very planted and stable, but in the tight corners, I understeer quite a bit. I am using the stock rear wing with almost no guerney, and a ProLine front "wing".

What would be the best option in order to improve the steering particularily INTO the corner, so that I dont have to use my brakes to get around the tightest ones? Softer front springs? (I run Losi orange at the moment)