Bmax4 or DEX410R

[captainlip]

post your thoughts and comments...

[blitzboy]

driven both mate and the b max is a stable car but is nt as a gressive as the durango, the durango is a great car but would recomend you look at the kyosho fs 2 buddy as i ve said i ve drivenn both but found the kyosho is a perfect match between ther two mate

[captainlip]

The FS2 is £100 over my limit atm.

[simoncrabb]

I'm loving the 410R. Though, I've not driven a BMAX...

The 'rango doesn't have to be aggressive, thicker diff oils helps calm it down a lot.

Oh look, I have a 410R in stock, please buy it :thumbsup:

http://rclazy.com/shop/car-kits/team-durango-dex410r-kit-td102003/

[sosidge]

All I will say is that before buying a B-MAX, check that you can get spares for it...

Same would go for any car that you intend to race.

[captainlip]

In my clubs bmax are used by a few, but there are a couple of durangos

[GRIFF55]

Belsten is selling a new bmax cheap on here as he runs Tamiyas!!

[captainlip]

Ok here as it stand

Bmax pros -

Strong, good club following in my area, lush big bores

Cons -
Lots of plastic, lack of spares

Dex410r pros -

Build quality looks superb, good spares,

Cons -

Expensive upgrades to the 410, are there better cars out there?

[peetbee]

Why is lots of plastic a con on the BMax?

[captainlip]

Weaker, id rather have a metal or carbon chassis than plastic

[Whiskers]

I've never seen a B-Max break have you? Lazers brake all the time at Goshen!

[mattb]

thats because youve never seen a bmax go round goshen fast enough:woot: and i bet youve not seen my fs break!!! lol

[peetbee]

I don't believe the bmax chassis is any weaker than the others, what makes you say that?

[mattb]

I don't believe the bmax chassis is any weaker than the others, what makes you say that?just because all the bmax drivers at bury seam to snap them in 2 mate!!

[Si Coe]

Matt - I've not broken a Bmax, and Johnny hasn't broken a Bmax either. And I'm using the same X12 5.5t you are, but without the driving skills.
The only person who has broken a Bmax is Jony Nitro, he broke it doing long jump records and we won't discuss how often he broke his Lazer!

Phil - JE stock Bmax spares, plus I bring a complete spare car and most of a third in spares to every meeting. JE also now do Durango - so spares for both is pretty similar.

Plastic in a way makes for a stronger car, it flexes a little on hard impacts rather than snapping. Think about those nice alloy towers you got - didn't last long did they?
The problem with the plastic on the Bmax (or Chippy tray as its known) is that it looks cheap. The Lazer has just as much, but it has a duller appearance that looks more 'carbon' like making the car seem more bling than the Bmax.

[mattb]

The dull effect on the lazers is because they are carbon chassis etc:p

[Benjy1]

I am new to all this and was steered in the direction of the B-max so cant speak for the other cars but love my B-max. I am not the best driver and all I have broken is a couple of wishbones. :thumbsup:

[arransmith27]

I had a B-Max and have to say it was the best handling 4WD i've ever owned (i've been racing for over 20 years on and off).

I really would let the plastic put you off, they are more than strong enough.

[Si Coe]

The dull effect on the lazers is because they are carbon chassis etc:p


AH! That explains why they snap so easily. As a B4 owner you should know that the carbon (graphite) FT parts are much more fragile than the regular plastic parts. To the extent that B4.1 FT's don't have any carbon in the anymore. Nobody bothered with the stuff!

[captainlip]

i agree when im replacing parts on the b4 im not putting carbon back on its craaaaap! the standard has withheld in lager impacts where the carbon would snap

[RogerM]

I feel I have to back up Matt here.

My ZX5-FS is built from a conversion kit on a ZX5-SP, back at the end of 2008.

Breakages on it in all that time are a couple of front towers (all big accidents, normally involving another car at speed) and 1 rear wishbone. The ZX5-FS is as tuff as they come!

As for the poll I can't comment as I'm so happy with the Kyosho cars I've not felt the need to try anything else

[blue_pinky]

Difference with carbon/plastic composite parts is they are stiffer...at the cost of being slightly more brittle.

If a solid, stiff car is what your after then carbon parts are better. But I think that a lot of team drivers have decided that the little bit of extra flex the plain plastic parts give is an advantage in certain circumstances.

The plain plastic parts do bend a little more and deform slightly before they break, whereas the carbon composite parts will take a marginally bigger hit without deforming at all, but break straight away rather than bending a little first...which in a small number of cases might be the difference between finishing a race or not...particularly for the less gifted driver who crashes a little more often!!!

The wonders of material science! :thumbsup:

[captainlip]

close poll!

still very unsure hear good an bad things about every buggy im looking at.

bmaxx is nice but id want big bores. thats another £120

lazer is £100 over budget

durango hasnt really been raved about since i showed my interest

b44 id rather move away from TA spent so much money with them :(

[JonyNitro]

close poll!

still very unsure hear good an bad things about every buggy im looking at.

bmaxx is nice but id want big bores. thats another £120

lazer is £100 over budget

durango hasnt really been raved about since i showed my interest

b44 id rather move away from TA spent so much money with them :(

(bmaxx is nice but id want big bores. thats another £120)
No they are not £60 from Bonzia Hobby

[captainlip]

front and rear? the site i saw before it was £60 at each end :woot:

[JonyNitro]

want a link

[captainlip]

http://www.m-k-racing.com/product_info.php?products_id=7925&osCsid=25b12375aa01620012d07e2cae987b23


and fronts

http://www.m-k-racing.com/product_info.php?products_id=7926

[JonyNitro]

You buy all your B max stuff from this site because its half the price in no fees
but site is down,not in the uk
http://banzaihobby.com/index.php?main_page=down_for_maintenance

[captainlip]

kk ill have a look, is that the same for the kits? :lol:

[JonyNitro]

when I had my b max thats where i bought all my spares

[captainlip]

ok thanks!

is this right or am i looking at the wrong car?

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/BMAX4.html

[JonyNitro]

yes wrong car I had the Factory B-Max

[traffman]

I owned the Bmax before owning a B44 then onto a full spec Durango.

I felt the Bmax was a forgiving car and smooth , the Durango is certainly point and aggressive and suits a harder driving style , i prefer the Durango as the quality and finish is on another level.

[Si Coe]

yes wrong car I had the Factory B-Max

However, you are looking at the right car to buy. The FT is very nice with all the fancy alloy, but in truth the Big Bore are what counts.

Alistair Sharp runs a basic Bmax with Big Bores and it works as well as the FT - but at a fraction of the cost.
You'd need:
Base Bmax (£180) - might as well get the plastic shock version as you aren't keeping them anyway
Big Bores (could also try the Ansmann/Team C ones - ask Stu)
Rear anti-roll bar kit.

You can add the alloy stuff later if you want - the motor mounts nice, not sure what the point of the steering bits are though.

By the next meeting I'll have the FT and Champ set much the same, both with 6.5t motors etc. You can try both and see what the difference is for yourself. The FT is nicer, but not worth the massive amount extra for......

[Swalls]

I've only ever had the Bmax but love the thing. There are faster cars thats for sure, over a lap a 'Rango is quicker, but the Yoke is so easy to drive, forgiving and tough that it just makes for a brilliant race car. I've driven a mates 'Rango and I liked the feel of it (even though he hates it) but over 5 mins and in a race situation I'd always want my Bmax.

With the 'Rango you'd prolly want some of the upgrade bits like sus mounts straight away to make it tough enough which pushes the price. Sayin' that though the Factory Bmax isn't exactly cheap lol.

As someone else said check out Belsten's car for sale, although I think its just a champ pack car, so alloy shocks but not BIG BORES. And its all about the BIG BORES after all :)

[captainlip]

ok can somebody explain the levels of the bmax4 as ive now seen one at £180, 230 and 420?? i only thought there were 2.

[Si Coe]

Ok. There are actually 4 levels, but the '09 is largely replaced by the FT

Firstly you've got your Bmax4. Thats the £180 car. Plastic shocks, no blue alloy, no anti-roll bar.

Then you've got the Champ pack. Thats the exact same car as above, but thrown into the box is another bag containing alloy shocks, a smaller spur and the Anti roll bar. Thats the £230 version

Next up is the '09 version. This has the alloy shocks, plus most of the blue alloy bits. These go for around £350

Finally you get the Factory Team at £420 with all the alloy and the big bores.

[captainlip]

gaaaaaaaawd i cant decide the bmax would be nice but id have to spend mega ££££ to get it where id be happpy with it.

the durango looks solid with metal geared diffs unlike bmax.

no matter what i go for i have to replace my new lipos i just shelled out on for saddles :mad:

[HarlowS]

Does the Durango not support Saddles ?? Im sure it does as you get both styles of battery brace.

[Mike Parker]

Thought I'd cast my vote :)

I would say that the Rango 410r does not really need the optional alloy, the only thing which has been commented on in the Rango thread has been the plastic pivot blocks but all the same it's very robust & has gained really good results as it is without forking out £££, on the whole it's really good value for money...

Little knowledge on the Bmax as I've never run one.

Both run saddles so no issues there :)

[mark christopher]

gaaaaaaaawd i cant decide the bmax would be nice but id have to spend mega ££££ to get it where id be happpy with it.

the durango looks solid with metal geared diffs unlike bmax.

no matter what i go for i have to replace my new lipos i just shelled out on. For saddles :mad:

Does the Durango not support Saddles ?? Im sure it does as you get both styles of battery brace.


think he means he has sticks and would have to buy saddles

[HarlowS]

Ahh ok, misread it then.

Just order the Durango and start off 2011 with a smile on your face :thumbsup:

[Big G]

Just order the Durango and start off 2011 with a smile on your face :thumbsup:

exactly what i'm about to do. just filling up my paypal so the Mrs doesn't notice the bank balance change :wub

[captainlip]

Yes i mean i have sticks!

The bmax does look really nice but as you say mega buck need to be spent on the alloy an big bores, until then i wouldnt be happy with it, plus when i saw the plastic diffs was a bit turned off,

On a plus note bmax does have a good following in our club with about 6 people running them!

As for the durango je spares have hinted of spares support at local clubs, plus love the look and love the metal gears etc etc, as for upgrades, although also expensive i wouldnt be in such a rush to get them as i would be with the bmax

Alot say you need to be aggressive with the rango, but with every car you learn to drive it to get the bes out of it.

[Battle_axe]

i would honestly say take a look at the ansmann x4pro+the big bores

i know its easy for me to say being a sponcered driver however take a look at one and if your near me (bicester) take a go with mine and you will be suprised

[captainlip]

tbh I wouldnt consider the ansmann, thanks for the offer though. :thumbsup:

[mattb]

if your thinking bmax you should look at the ansmann as they are vertualy the same car but with different badges

[captainlip]

wasnt aware they were identical, tbh im stil swaying towards the 401r

[mattb]

wasnt aware they were identical, tbh im stil swaying towards the 401rwho said identical???

[captainlip]

who said identical???

ok virtually the same car :D

[mark christopher]

any reason you have not considerd the B44?

[captainlip]

any reason you have not considerd the B44?

as ive ran a b4 for a while and spent a fortune with TA, so fancy a new brand to go with.

[mattb]

I suggested that to him very good car i say b44 or lazer fs!!!!

[captainlip]

i dont doubt that the b44 is a great car, i just want something different to play with.

[Si Coe]

Battleaxe - He races at Bury with Stu, so can try his X4-Pro. But thanks for the offer.
The X4-Pro is a mega good choice for that reason - its what Stu runs. In fact, Stu is Mr Ansmann when it comes to development etc. Why are there so many Bmaxes at Bury - cos Stu used to run them (my FT was his) so he's the man for setup tips etc.
The Blizzard going round at Bury looks interesting. Its basically a cheaper X4-Pro, but takes stick packs. For the price of a 410r you could have one of those, kitted with all the nice bits off the X4 + Ansmann big bores, and still use your sticks.

Also taking sticks is the Cat SXII - which is a nice indoor car, but never seems to run that well at Goshen. That basic version is pretty cheap, but there are sooo many upgrades and options its mental.
Then there is the Tamiya DB01R. Not a common sight, but Andy who raced with us until just before you joined used one and could hang with Matts Lazer running it. Its also stupidly tough as well.

[Spencer Mulcahy]

Rossendale models do Durango spares as well I see your in Manchester so not to far for you.:thumbsup:

[captainlip]

now the b4 is up for sale I really need to make a decision :D

i keep getting tempted by the rango no matter what, this isnt for defo as ive just missed out on a b44 with all spares cheap :(

tbh im not dead set on anything if a bmax/b44 etc come up cheap on the forums ill buy it, but id rather build a kit.

[Jnunu1]

Hi

My 2 penneth - 'rango as it looks nicer!!:woot:

Shallow, I know.

See you on the 8th at RR? Will you have the new car by then or is it a chrissy present?

[captainlip]

not sure yet as ive just stripped my b4, and its on ebay for 3 days, (check FS section) once I have funds in paypal i will purchase the 4wd, then build it hopefully in time, but inbetween all this i have a newborn to care for. :thumbsup:

[Jnunu1]

Nice one - last time I saw you, i think you were still expecting!

Remember, sleep is for wimps!

:thumbsup:

[JonyNitro]

Ah at last I can feel the Stress going, With my newly purchased FS-2

[captainlip]

last night destroyed me :D

[JonyNitro]

you have lost me??

[Jnunu1]

last night destroyed me :D
Whilst not wishing to turn this into a parenting forum, I found that getting them on the bottle asap gets them sleeping through by 3 months.

Not a very "pc" point of view (i.e. breast is best) but ffs, sleep for all is as important;)

[captainlip]

you have lost me??

yes :D

[Si Coe]

Pah! Who says you can't do racing and parenting? I take my little lad swimming Sunday mornings before heading off racing!

Jony - Getting an FS2 won't help you! After all, that FT was reliable for Stu, and is reliable for me. After I completely rebuilt it from whatever you did to it!

Phil - get whatever you like as they are all good. Different cars just seem to suit different people. My first Bmax was acquired by swapping a XX4 with Little Chris - Chris prefers the XX4 to the Bmax, I prefer the Bmax to the XX4. Only way to find out for sure is to get something......

[captainlip]

Phil - get whatever you like as they are all good. Different cars just seem to suit different people. My first Bmax was acquired by swapping a XX4 with Little Chris - Chris prefers the XX4 to the Bmax, I prefer the Bmax to the XX4. Only way to find out for sure is to get something......

I will when ive sold my stuff i put on ebay, have a nosey in the FS section if you want it :) sooner it sells sooner i can get something, least i know ill make b finals at least from now on. ill be happy with most 4wd, so long as its robust and competative

[Whiskers]

If you get the rango you will have to let me have a go :p as i'm looking at getting one for the start of the outdoor season and most people that I have seen running them use stick radios which I can't use!

[mattJT]

Hi there,

Having gone through exactly the same change from 2wd to 4wd dilemma as you in recent days, even down to our b4.1 listings being back to back in the FS lol.

I'd recommend trawling the FS pages - I did that last week and ended up finding a b44 (granted no spares) with rudebits lipo trays, boxed, manual and overall v good condition for £100 posted.

Spose for me the B44 is very affordable, spares are readily available and having had the b4 and b4.1, know that the brand is a good one and the cars work well for me.

At the end of the day the b44 sits nicely within my price range, could have always looked to the potentially better more expensive car, alas, there's always going to be a better expensive car............which is always just out of your reach

[captainlip]

Decision made and is now on his way to collect my new kit :D

[mattJT]

my bets that you come back with a durango in your hands :)

[ryanlownie]

Yep I'll bet it's a Durango too ;)

[captainlip]

Yep I'll bet it's a Durango too ;)

Just stolen this from je spares :D

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/PHILFTO/8bd9f83b.jpg

[mattJT]

:thumbsup: nice, of course you'll have to change your signature thingy now

[mattb]

nice one mate were going to have every brand of top 4wd at bury soon:thumbsup:

[dave-p]

I WONDER HOW LONG IT WILL BE BEFORE ITS IN THE FOR SALE THREAD OR EBAY LIKE MANY BEFORE IT?. :woot:

[mattb]

Lol, dave when you going to come to bury indoors its right up your street starts at 12 done for 4.30ish 5 heats and a final???

[JonyNitro]

Nice one like the look of the Durango, but you need to get the front Ali hingepin with your kit,Be warned

[captainlip]

I WONDER HOW LONG IT WILL BE BEFORE ITS IN THE FOR SALE THREAD OR EBAY LIKE MANY BEFORE IT?. :woot:

Not this one! Going to run this for a long time now, and eventually upgrade to some of the bling 410 parts!

Ali front hinge pin? What problems are there?

[captainlip]

nice one mate were going to have every brand of top 4wd at bury soon:thumbsup:

Cheers matt! Couldnt afford a lazer and wanted something different than a bmax though both looked nice!

Only problem is need some saddles now! Who still sells trackpower dark series saddles? Thanks

[dave-p]

Not this one! Going to run this for a long time now, and eventually upgrade to some of the bling 410 parts!

Ali front hinge pin? What problems are there?


HA HA, I WISH I HAD TEN QUID FOR EVERY TIME I HAVE HEARD THAT ON (ME INCLUDED), WE WILL SEE.

AYUP MATTY I WILL TRY IN THE NEXT FEW WEEKS MATEY WE ARE UP TO THE NUTS IN SNOW HERE!:woot:.

[mattb]

Cheers matt! Couldnt afford a lazer and wanted something different than a bmax though both looked nice!

Only problem is need some saddles now! Who still sells trackpower dark series saddles? Thanksje spares good price to!!

[mattJT]

Just had a check and Je spares don't appear to have them in stock, in fact, looking on google no one in the uk seems to have them??

So the next part of this thread becomes which lipo saddle pack and why?

[JonyNitro]

What lipo's cells fit? Orion,TP, do the intellect fit?

[captainlip]

Just had a check and Je spares don't appear to have them in stock, in fact, looking on google no one in the uk seems to have them??

So the next part of this thread becomes which lipo saddle pack and why?

HAHA yes it could be! tbh I really want to settle with dark series if i can locate some :(

spoke with je spares today and they got the last of them :thumbdown:

[mattJT]

Thought about getting second hand ones? ooplers are always selling some, I just picked up 2 trakpower saddle packs and a dark series saddle pack for £45 posted :) off of the fs.....has to trawl to find em tho

[captainlip]

Thought about getting second hand ones? ooplers are always selling some, I just picked up 2 trakpower saddle packs and a dark series saddle pack for £45 posted :) off of the fs.....has to trawl to find em tho


just found some new ones delievered from the states for £55 :thumbsup:

[mattJT]

all's good, as long as you don't get shafted on customs tho, mrs bought from states once and mr customs left a fee for her :(

[captainlip]

not had that happen yet.

[mattJT]

Likewise when I buy from HK, so cool, dark series - meet the durango :thumbsup:

[Si Coe]

You will on Lipos. They tend to come in a lot of packaging, and most US shops are pretty honest on the cost. Less than £18 and you don't get hit.

What about Vampire Racing 4400mAh 40C's (http://www.dms-racing.com/fruzat/qaxabast.asp?manufacturer=Vampire%20Racing&product=VR1012&PageURL=fruzat/tupraphe.asp?manufacturer=Vampire%20Racing) from DMS. They are £63, but UK sourced so you can have them in days. And Vampires are very good cells too.

[captainlip]

You will on Lipos. They tend to come in a lot of packaging, and most US shops are pretty honest on the cost. Less than £18 and you don't get hit.

What about Vampire Racing 4400mAh 40C's (http://www.dms-racing.com/fruzat/qaxabast.asp?manufacturer=Vampire%20Racing&product=VR1012&PageURL=fruzat/tupraphe.asp?manufacturer=Vampire%20Racing) from DMS. They are £63, but UK sourced so you can have them in days. And Vampires are very good cells too.

too late :lol: already ordered and paid for the dark series, i loved them so much in the b4! i dont mind waiting, ive still got to get the thing built yet! (this weekend) then i need tyres also, not to mention get my shell sprayed somewhere.... :eh?:

whats this front ali hinge they are talking about replacing?

[mattJT]

Would imagine the same as the b4.1 one, just to reinforce the front arms and shock tower ?!

[Si Coe]

If you are ready to roll and the Lipos haven't turned up yet - which at this time of year is possible, I've got 3 sets of Trakpower 3200's I don't use anymore you can borrow. They aren't great cells, but better than not running......

[Ian F]

The front wishbone hanger is a weak point, you need TD330004, TD330006 and 330037, have a look at the 410 instructions on the web site as the shims are different when you use the alloy braces.

Hope it helps
Ian

[captainlip]

If you are ready to roll and the Lipos haven't turned up yet - which at this time of year is possible, I've got 3 sets of Trakpower 3200's I don't use anymore you can borrow. They aren't great cells, but better than not running......


thanks Si!

Is there anything different about charging saddles? do you charge them individually? :eh?:

baisically now i need tyres and foams - not sure on sizes
re solder the esc (again) for correct lengh wires to lipos
paint shell and wing from someone.

thats about it.

[Si Coe]

Charging saddles is much the same as charging sticks. You might need to get a centre balance lead (the extra wire that joins the two 'halves' of the pack) but its nothing to worry about.

Rear wheels are the same as the B4.1 so if you haven't flogged your good sets yet, best not to. Fronts are standard front hex fitment.
Your esc shouldn't need resoldering as the wires are if anything a little on the long side.

Rog and Little Chris do shells.

[captainlip]

got the rims, just need tyres and inserts, not sure which to get, are there different sizes?

so to charge the lipos you keep the wire in the middle and still charge it as a 2c lipo rather that charging one at a time?

[Si Coe]

Rears are as per the B4.1 in every way. Fronts you need 4wd fronts ('medium') instead of 2wd fronts ('narrow'). Usual stuff - yellow minispikes, yellow minipins, Ballistic Buggy green spikes for wet.

Yes - you charge a saddle pack as a 2S stick pack, not individually. You could charge them that way, but they wouldn't be balanced.

[captainlip]

can you link me tyres? its all i need and foam, got the rims already

[Whiskers]

http://www.jespares.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7192&category_id=1180

http://www.jespares.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7193&category_id=1180

http://www.jespares.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7199&category_id=1212

http://www.jespares.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7200&category_id=1212

:thumbsup:

[captainlip]

Baisically just need tyres and foams now.... :D

having a shell painted by jon miller but will take up to 4 weeks! going to look the shizz though :thumbsup:

[captainlip]

http://www.jespares.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7192&category_id=1180

http://www.jespares.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7193&category_id=1180

http://www.jespares.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7199&category_id=1212

http://www.jespares.com/electric-models?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7200&category_id=1212

:thumbsup:


super wiskers! out of stock though :thumbdown:

[dave-p]

Baisically just need tyres and foams now.... :D

having a shell painted by jon miller but will take up to 4 weeks! going to look the shizz though :thumbsup:

mike parker only lives in wakefield and he turns nice shells out in one week, you could have it running three weeks early.

[Whiskers]

super wiskers! out of stock though :thumbdown:

At least you know what sort you need now. Just try other shops, you've got the part numbers.

[captainlip]

At least you know what sort you need now. Just try other shops, you've got the part numbers.


sorted now! bought them all of ebay! £20....sorted.

just the shell now, and actually start to build it :lol:

[Whiskers]

Are you still going to be running your speed passion gear in your Rango?

[captainlip]

yeah will be 7.5t. really enjoy using them, so smooth the power delivery.

[Whiskers]

yeah will be 7.5t. really enjoy using them, so smooth the power delivery.

Would you recommend them then? I'm thinking about getting all speed passion stuff but a 6.5T motor and the GT2.1 esc.

[captainlip]

Would you recommend them then? I'm thinking about getting all speed passion stuff but a 6.5T motor and the GT2.1 esc.

defo :thumbsup:

[captainlip]

im not sure wether to get a custom job which the design if found looks awesome! but its £40 and ive already spent alot this month already.

or just spend £8 on pearl white and spray like that for now! :eh?:

[mattJT]

i'd spray and decal, save the money for parts etc....good for short term fix :thumbsup:

[Jnunu1]

Just catching up on the thread Phil - you bought it - well done!

Will it be ready for the 8th at RR? Or will you need to wait for the shell to come back?

I have just ordered a new shell for mine and was considering getting it done pro - but i think i need to get round the track in one piece before i can do that!

John

[Jnunu1]

Just catching up on the thread Phil - you bought it - well done!

Will it be ready for the 8th at RR? Or will you need to wait for the shell to come back?

I have just ordered a new shell for mine and was considering getting it done pro - but i think i need to get round the track in one piece before i can do that!

John

Hi

Just saw your last post on the paint job - personally theres no way i could wait!

Locally there is Chris Ridgeway (he races at RR) who paints - he may be able to get something done quickly. I will pm you him details.

John

[captainlip]

not sure it will be ready for RR as ive ordered some saddles which will have to wait to arrive from usa.

the spray myself would be a quick fix, but for a prefessional job it cost me £60 at a later date for a shell and spray, if it looks like i can race RR i may just spray it pearl white and decal it up. :thumbsup:

[Si Coe]

Or just trim it and run it nude (oh er) so you can paint it later. Dave can't complain - he ran his Cat like that for about 6 months!
Chris Ridgeway (Little Chris) will happily do your shell for you, he can do fancy and he can do fast. He needs the money! Just make sure you check his spellings if you ask for words -

As I said, if you want to run RR or Bury I can lend you cells. They'll work fine with a 7,5t motor.

[captainlip]

building has commenced, after an expensive visit to RR, i got some nice tools :thumbsup: its getting built as best as possible.

[captainlip]

6 hours later with a pizza break and im still building!

bought the wrong white paint though typical :thumbdown:

oh and i have 1 blister so far! thank god i bough a set of tools

[captainlip]

9 hours later building must cease! Will be on here with the issues i have in the morning

[captainlip]

need a bit of help, I have fitted my electrics back in the rango, shortened esc leads and soldered them back on, and lengthened the lipo leads.

now its all back in its going backwards :(:eh?: leads are all in correct positions and tripple checked it, reverse is not selected by mistake and not sure what it could be.

[mattb]

have you put your diffs in the right way round??

[Battle_axe]

turn the difs 180 degrees

[mattb]

turn the difs 180 degreeswhat gas mark is that??? lol

[captainlip]

thanks will give this a go! didnt realise this was a cause! learn something everyday!

second issue is one of the diffs is really noisey! :( got it out now and topped it up with the correct level of flid and still the same, i think the noise is coming from where the driveshaft from the spur goes into the diff housing, those two gears seem very noisy.....

[hide]

need a bit of help, I have fitted my electrics back in the rango, shortened esc leads and soldered them back on, and lengthened the lipo leads.

now its all back in its going backwards :(:eh?: leads are all in correct positions and tripple checked it, reverse is not selected by mistake and not sure what it could be.

Diffs in backwards?

[mattb]

thanks will give this a go! didnt realise this was a cause! learn something everyday!

second issue is one of the diffs is really noisey! :( got it out now and topped it up with the correct level of flid and still the same, i think the noise is coming from where the driveshaft from the spur goes into the diff housing, those two gears seem very noisy.....i think they are a noisey car mate because of the metal gears maybe you need to shim the gears properly??

[captainlip]

Diffs in backwards?


same thing? :eh?:


surely it would be smooth no matter what direction, when i turn it in my hand either way you can hear it rubbing/grinding/meshing

[captainlip]

i think they are a noisey car mate because of the metal gears

I mean really noisey, the front is nice and smooth the rear like a tractor. :woot:

[ryanlownie]

The diffs will need bedding in, all that metal to metal contact is gonna be noisy!

[captainlip]

The diffs will need bedding in, all that metal to metal contact is gonna be noisy!

ive popped a bit of black grease in there and all that does is thicken it up, still the noise, i dont get how the front is bob on, and the back is click click click click....

[mattb]

The diffs will need bedding in, all that metal to metal contact is gonna be noisy!ry why dont you lend him some of those pink ear muffs you and stu wear in the shop when its cold to deaden the noise a bit for him

[carlin]

ry why dont you lend him some of those pink ear muffs you and stu wear in the shop when its cold to deaden the noise a bit for him

I love it lol.........Nice one Matt :p

[mattb]

I love it lol.........Nice one Matt :pits the norm at je spares rob in the summer its pink skirts so i try to stay away!!!

[captainlip]

well the shell is having its last few sprays to finish it off, got two final questions for today :D

1. turn buckels strong to get on, but seem to come off REALLY easily ??? :bored:

2. the pin in the middle that holds the spur and cover down, i cannot for the life of me get it on, have spent a good 20 mins over last couple of days and cannot get it through! it wont go through the last bit to clip in :bored:

[ryanlownie]

That pin went on first time for me when I built a DEX410, but after that it just became a pain in the arse!

I used a reamer on the holes that the pin goes through, the reamer will even work on the alloy and it helps guide it through that bit easier....

[captainlip]

ive just take the masks off my shell and the windows have a mist effect from all the sticky stuff, :mad: why is this! it happened on my jconcepts b4 shell and im a bit pieved about it, how can i get it off safely so the windows are clear?

[mattb]

ive just take the masks off my shell and the windows have a mist effect from all the sticky stuff, :mad: why is this! it happened on my jconcepts b4 shell and im a bit pieved about it, how can i get it off safely so the windows are clear?its because your putting to much paint on mate,get it of with car polish auto glym or something

[captainlip]

its because your putting to much paint on mate,get it of with car polish auto glym or something


ta will give it a go, its had 3 coats of imperial white and 2 coats of spa silver to back it.

with the electrics fitted....just....i have just found out the wires foul the shell so need to seriously look at these cable. soldering iron out again lol

[captainlip]

GOD DAM WIRES! were talking literally MM left in there, and is to tight the shell doesnt sit straight! Ill try upload pics on my phone.

just waiting on lipos and tyres and inserts.

[captainlip]

A quick pick to show how close all the electrics are, im bit concerned about the aerial and on off switch and the long sensor lead, im struggling to get the shell on properly with all the wires

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc157/PHILFTO/7b6bdc70.jpg

[ryanlownie]

That switch definitely needs moving, too risky leaving it there, a side impact could easily turn it off.

If you are struggling for electric placement ideas, have a look at the Durango section of the forum. There's tons of photos of how people wire theirs up, there should be a few with Speed Passion gear in.

[captainlip]

yeah I was looking at moving the switch thats an easy fix, as for fitting it all in its go a long capacitor on it which alot of people dont seem to be using. ive looked in there and ive spent ages fitting electrics in and re soldered the wires 3 times for best fit and this seems the only way I can get it all in.