TLR 22 dif probs

[highlander]

had a test run in the week with my 22 ... all is good apart from after running not even five mins the diff has gone from super smooth to feeling like a bag af spanners ( rough to feel but still loose and working fine ) just dont feel great anyone else found this... tried a re grease but it feels just the same (looks like ceramic balls and new plates needed) dohh

[reg]

i stripped mine because it was the same,what i found was when you put the two diff halfs together,with the center gear and the balls in but no thrust bearing thing,it was super smooth even when you push them together as hard as you can,when you put the screw in and do it up it goes all crunchy:confused:

[Spencer Mulcahy]

When you build the diff make sure you put shit loads of black grease on the thrust race, you dont need to put much clear grease on the diff balls you just want to fill the holes where they sit. Thats how I do it anyway and my diffs are always smooth.

[andys]

Yep, same thing here.
Anyone know what the kit balls are made from - cheap steel ?

[tomtom]

Same here, first run on table nice and smooth. First run got crunchy and slip.
Rebuild and then no more smoothness.
Order a rebuilt kit, will see later but opened to suggestions.

[racer x 1]

not an owner yet, but id suggest carbide balls and new diff rings (sanded of course).

[Rich D]

RCLazy.com do ceramic diff balls for these cars, myself and a couple of my mates built ours with ceramic from new.

[highlander]

RCLazy.com do ceramic diff balls for these cars, myself and a couple of my mates built ours with ceramic from new.

so rich with the ceramics you havnt had this prob then.....

[Rich D]

so rich with the ceramics you havnt had this prob then.....


In truth bud i havent even ran my 22 yet but i build all my cars with ceramic balls from new to prevent this exact issue. Saves aggro later on for the sake of 15 quid. Not had any issues with the diffs with my 511, tourers or Cougar by using the following build method.......

I use Associated black grease on the thrust race and Schumacher or MuchMore difflube on the balls and plates. The Losi stuff is probably ok but i stick to what i know. On the backs of the plates i use a small amount of Tamiya hard friction damper grease to stop the plates from spinning on the outdrives.

[steveproracing]

Mine was like this!! Steel balls I presume!!
I had a pack of ae carbide balls lying around so rebuilt with those!!
However ae only supply 12. So I used 2 of the steel balls. 1 @12 o'clock the other at 6. This can clean the track and allow for a really long lasting smooth diff!! It seems to have done the trick for me as I now have a smooth diff that I can put a lot more tension on!!
I noticed that with the diff set with the crunchy balls it was quite loose causing the car to diff out!! I now have the diff set much tighterto stop this. However I have not been able to get track time to confirm at present!

[reg]

it does seem odd then they would go to all that trouble of grinding the diff rings flat,then give you crap balls that will probably knacker them,or will the ball be that soft that the diff rings will be ok to use again?

[cr1tch]

these are by far the best ceramicdiff ball i have ever used in the 15 years of racing and ive race alot of classes (1/12, touring cars,buggies 10th and 8th Mardave) dont buy white ceramic balls.

clicky
http://www.acerracing.com/ball_bearings/3_32_Ceramic_Silicon_Nitride_Balls-774-65.html :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Free Shipping....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsu p::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsu p::thumbsup:

[pugboy]

Have people's diffs that have given up been run in first? Mine seemed tight but still slipping but then after running in now seems smooth with not too much slip...I haven't raced it yet though and it's a whole different game to the bench. Should I expect it to go 5hite after 5 mins of racing then?

The diff balls are interchangeable with old Losi tungsten carbide balls I presume, as they were 3/32 and I think the 22 ones are too...I have always found my xx4 diffs stay smooth for ages. What about the diff gear and idlers, are they different from the CR cause of the metric bearings?

[Lowie]

these are by far the best ceramicdiff ball i have ever used in the 15 years of racing and ive race alot of classes (1/12, touring cars,buggies 10th and 8th Mardave) dont buy white ceramic balls.

clicky
http://www.acerracing.com/ball_bearings/3_32_Ceramic_Silicon_Nitride_Balls-774-65.html :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Free Shipping....:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsu p::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsu p::thumbsup:

and what size will fit the Losi-diff? The 3/32"?

[sparrow.2]

and what size will fit the Losi-diff? The 3/32"?

yup!

[simoncrabb]

Yep, we're doing a Losi 22 ceramic ball kit, it seems very popular.

We sell 14 x 3/32" for the diff + 6 x 5/64" for the thrust for £14 free postage.

http://rclazy.com/shop/lazyballs/lazy-balls-tlr-losi-22-ceramic-diff-balls/

[highlander]

Have people's diffs that have given up been run in first? Mine seemed tight but still slipping but then after running in now seems smooth with not too much slip...I haven't raced it yet though and it's a whole different game to the bench. Should I expect it to go 5hite after 5 mins of racing then?

The diff balls are interchangeable with old Losi tungsten carbide balls I presume, as they were 3/32 and I think the 22 ones are too...I have always found my xx4 diffs stay smooth for ages. What about the diff gear and idlers, are they different from the CR cause of the metric bearings?

yes mate if mine was anything to go by ... get sum answer rc ceramic balls in there from the start and save your diff rings ( pete at answer rc has a set of 14 balls to suite the TLR 22)

[Bagman]

Bit of a basic question this but what is the best/easiest way to run in a diff?

[Belsten]

I built mine with rc ceramic balls from new, diff is still super smooth after a night of running :thumbsup:

[steveproracing]

Hi folks.
If u havin trouble with the diff screw/ nut the ae b4 ones fit perfectly if u use both!! Works a treat!!!

[frogger]

Oh crapper, just felt my diff after running at Taplow and it not only feels but even sounds like a bag of spanners. Here we come ceramic balls! :thumbsup:

[The Hobbymaster]

My diff is shot after one run :-( I spent a long time putting it together, black grease, spot on adjustment etc..........I'm going to pull it tomorrow and see what needs replacing. apart from the diff its a sweet buggy and I'm really happy with it.
cheers Ian

[frogger]

It's the diff balls that go real quickly, seems like they are made out of cheese. I had some ceramic balls from RCLazy but didn't have spare diff rings just yet so I just flipped mine over, sanded them nicely and rebuilt the diff with the ceramic balls. It is now smooth as butter. Let's hope it stays that way a bit longer.

[reg]

what grade sand paper are you using on the diff rings,
thanks

[stegger]

what grade sand paper are you using on the diff rings,
thanks


http://rcevilempire.com/2009/03/how-to-build-a-winning-diff-with-jesse-stark/

[Legacy555]

what grade sand paper are you using on the diff rings,
thanks

I'd use 3000 grit paper but make sure to use some cutting fluid on it- or spray oil if you don't have any.

[dodgydiy]

dont know if anyone else uses this on their rings, but i use fine valve seating paste and have done for years

[The Hobbymaster]

It's the diff balls that go real quickly, seems like they are made out of cheese. I had some ceramic balls from RCLazy but didn't have spare diff rings just yet so I just flipped mine over, sanded them nicely and rebuilt the diff with the ceramic balls. It is now smooth as butter. Let's hope it stays that way a bit longer.

I didn't think of turning the diff rings over LOL great thinking! I'll order some new ceramic's today and see how we go from there! I'm running far to hot a motor at the moment ( 3.5 turn Novak) so any shortcomings in the diff will, and have shown themselves. Think I need to order a 7.5 asap!! Cheers Ian

[slow bob]

I have also found the plastic nut holder the main diff bolt goes through rounds out letting the nut spin. I thought I had rounded out the hex head at first ...

its only little problems and i am still realy realy happy with the 22 for the money its the best car on the market :thumbsup:

[learnerdriver]

there should be an aluminium diffnut holder hopup appearing at shops , hopefully this week :thumbsup:

I have also found the plastic nut holder the main diff bolt goes through rounds out letting the nut spin. I thought I had rounded out the hex head at first ...

its only little problems and i am still realy realy happy with the 22 for the money its the best car on the market :thumbsup:

[Delves]

there should be an aluminium diffnut holder hopup appearing at shops , hopefully this week :thumbsup:

I'm assuming you have seen this on TLRACING.COM... hate to say it but it says due late July so afraid we will all have to wait for this hop up item.

[steveproracing]

As a fix for the dodgy nut holder u have several solutions that work
1. Put the nut in the holder then drip superglue in the nut end and let it set before rebuilding diff
2 use a tamiya nut and diff holder. (they are an exact fit!)

3. Use an associated diff screw and 1 piece nut/holder. This is also a perfect fit. The thread is not the same as losi which is why u need the screw as well.
The screw is a little longer so u get a more progressive adjustment range. However it is not too long that it impinges any driveshft travel in the outdrives

Number 3 IMO is the best fix. And a permanent one that is much cheaper than paying £10-15 for an alloy nut holder!!

[Darren Boyle]

I'm assuming you have seen this on TLRACING.COM... hate to say it but it says due late July so afraid we will all have to wait for this hop up item.

To be fair Chris there are still some items showing as May/June etc that we have here already, so some may comethrough quicker than expected....

Get your US friends to get the website up to date... ;)

[Delves]

To be fair Chris there are still some items showing as May/June etc that we have here already, so some may comethrough quicker than expected....

Get your US friends to get the website up to date... ;)

Very true fella :) Well here's to hoping that all the hop up items come through soon then a :thumbsup:

[reg]

To be fair Chris there are still some items showing as May/June etc that we have here already, so some may comethrough quicker than expected....

Get your US friends to get the website up to date... ;)


you cant tell us than and not tell us what they are :woot:

[Darren Boyle]

Things like the brass weight kit that was not meant to come until next month which is already here. We have listed today on our website in our "Preview" section all of the new forthcoming parts from TLR for the Twenty Two, there are LOTS of new bits on the way soon.......

[reg]

Things like the brass weight kit that was not meant to come until next month which is already here. We have listed today on our website in our "Preview" section all of the new forthcoming parts from TLR for the Twenty Two, there are LOTS of new bits on the way soon.......


:thumbsup:............your car will be the blingyst(if there is such a word) on the track

[sly]

After replacingthe spring, nut and bolt for a set out from a b4, mine has had 4 packs through it and all is great.
The problem is the spring not being ground square at the ends, which make it slip then tight and causes the movement that it doesn't like, and crushes the steel balls.

[pugboy]

After replacingthe spring, nut and bolt for a set out from a b4, mine has had 4 packs through it and all is great.
The problem is the spring not being ground square at the ends, which make it slip then tight and causes the movement that it doesn't like, and crushes the steel balls.

Si

Are you still on the standard diff and thrust balls then? Ran mine at Southport Sunday and all was good out on track but the diff does feel a bit rough..

Cheers

[budfish]

I've got ceramic diff balls for TLR 22 for sale in the sale section on here will have the thrust balls on Tuesday if that helps any of you!!

Buds

[Pip Squeak]

Looks like Ive wasted my money buying this car:thumbdown:

[millser]

Looks like Ive wasted my money buying this car:thumbdown:

HAHAHAHAHAHA:thumbsup:

[Chris56]

Looks like Ive wasted my money buying this car:thumbdown:

The car itself is great, only the diff is its Achilles heel.

If you haven't built the car yet, it might be worth getting some ceramic balls for the diff before you get to that bit

[slow bob]

i think wasted your money is abit of an overreaction the only problem on the entire car is with the diff and its not exactly expensive or hard to fix :eh?:

I still think for the cash its the best 2wd out there .:woot:

[lynx75]

As a fix for the dodgy nut holder u have several solutions that work
1. Put the nut in the holder then drip superglue in the nut end and let it set before rebuilding diff
2 use a tamiya nut and diff holder. (they are an exact fit!)

3. Use an associated diff screw and 1 piece nut/holder. This is also a perfect fit. The thread is not the same as losi which is why u need the screw as well.
The screw is a little longer so u get a more progressive adjustment range. However it is not too long that it impinges any driveshft travel in the outdrives

Number 3 IMO is the best fix. And a permanent one that is much cheaper than paying £10-15 for an alloy nut holder!!

Thank you for that.

Could you let me know the part code for the tamiya nut and diff holder, please?

Thanks.

[kinggareth]

I have also found the plastic nut holder the main diff bolt goes through rounds out letting the nut spin. I thought I had rounded out the hex head at first ...


I've had this happen and have spent 10 minutes trying to get the screw back out so that i can replace the nut and nut holder but just can't get any purchase on the nut to stop it spinning. How have you guys got your diff back apart - because I don't want to be spending out on on new outdrives just because of a stupid nut holder!

[slow bob]

if you have a small flat head screwdriver you can force it down the side of the diff nut this will stop it spinning enough to get the screw out ..

[sly]

Si

Are you still on the standard diff and thrust balls then? Ran mine at Southport Sunday and all was good out on track but the diff does feel a bit rough..

Cheers

I have put all ceramic balls in and glues the rings to the outdrive to try and stop them from spining.
Garden test is ok but the true test is on our track on Sunday.:thumbsup:

[pugboy]

I have put all ceramic balls in and glues the rings to the outdrive to try and stop them from spining.
Garden test is ok but the true test is on our track on Sunday.:thumbsup:

I'll hope mine stays ok for the regional but then I think I'll have to go down the ceramic route as it isn't gonna get any better.

regarding gluing rings to outdrives, I don't know why they did away with the old Losi system with the flat on the inside of the diff ring and matching flat on outdrive, much better IMO.

[Delves]

Ive just rebuilt my diff after destroying it at the weekend. Things that I did differently;

1) I used Tamiya Hard Damper grease on the back of the diff plates to stop the plate from slipping (I always used this grease when building my TC Tamiya diffs to stop the plates slipping on the diff halves... got this tip of Hupo when he was driving for Tam a few years back).

2) I have used a whole world of black grease on the thrust, and then again a load of clear grease in the diff.

3) Ran the diff in at low speed (for around 5-8 mins) and slowly tightened it up till it was as tight

I have kept everything standard, so no ceramic balls! But after all that the diff feels good on the bench, but the test will be after the first practice on Sunday. Just thought I would share this and hope the info comes in handy... will report back after sunday to let you guys know if the diff held up better than before :)

[slow bob]

So do we think this a flaw in the quality and as such should we all get a free set of the upgraded balls from the shop we puchased the kit from ??

i know the same happened with the cougar gearbox ect and we all got a free upgrade from shuey ..

[Spencer Mulcahy]

Not to bothered about the diff balls it's the nut that is pissing me off I have gone through three now so I have ordered the associated ones I hope that sorts it. Other than the diff the car is ace.

[Legacy555]

Ceramic balls and Associated Black Grease have been necessary in the Losi cars since the XX. I wouldn't get too worried about it if you never noticed the problem in the older cars.

I personally prefered the keyed diff rings in the XX. I copied the traxxas TRX-1 build and glued mine down for years. Recently I've reverted to running a file around the outdrive and diff ring - seems to work fine.

[coleman758]

Not to bothered about the diff balls it's the nut that is pissing me off I have gone through three now so I have ordered the associated ones I hope that sorts it. Other than the diff the car is ace.

Make sure you get the bolt also, as the AE nuts are imperial :thumbsup: (Correct me if i'm wrong!)

[Muggydude]

So is the spring the problem too? or will new balls, the ae nut/screw, and sand rings do the trick?

What is a better greaser to put under the rings on the outdrives?

AE Black Grease
AE Clear Grease
BFAST Clear Grease
TLR Black Grease (from the kit)
TLR Clear Grease (from the kit)

And out of those which do you guys think is the best stuff to use while building the diff.

[chris_dono]

I took my diff out and used ceramic balls this time round, seems to be ncie and free regardless of how tight I set it now :)

One quick thing though, is there a trick to getting access to the diff without taking the whole rear end apart ?

[ianhaye]

One quick thing though, is there a trick to getting access to the diff without taking the whole rear end apart ?

yep if you pop one of the ball cups off on the rear link that alows you to move the wheel back and driveshaft out to give you access to the allen key to adjust the diff, just rem witch side you put the allenkey side as you cant do it from the nut side ;-)

[bigred5765]

Not to bothered about the diff balls it's the nut that is pissing me off I have gone through three now so I have ordered the associated ones I hope that sorts it. Other than the diff the car is ace.

Spence Ive built a few now not spun a single nut, may be you've got a cocker hand are just ripping them apart lol,:p
no i would just glue it in with super glue, thats all i did,and not had one complaint yet lol tempting fate yeah I'm sure

[reg]

i found it better if you crush the spring before you fit it and just run the bolt through the nut before you put it in the diff:thumbsup:

[chris_dono]

yep if you pop one of the ball cups off on the rear link that alows you to move the wheel back and driveshaft out to give you access to the allen key to adjust the diff, just rem witch side you put the allenkey side as you cant do it from the nut side ;-)

sorry, me not being clear there hehe

I meant to get the diff out for a rebuild :)

[smitty]

hello mate unfortunately you have to take the back end to bits to get the gear box out it is the only way .

[cr1tch]

sorry, me not being clear there hehe

I meant to get the diff out for a rebuild :)

mine is pritty easy being rear motor only 6 screws, only took me 7 mins to strip, re build diff (with ceramic balls) and then re build diff housing into car. As some of the guys at southport found out saying that i would never have the car build for my race.

[Spencer Mulcahy]

Spence Ive built a few now not spun a single nut, may be you've got a cocker hand are just ripping them apart lol,:p
no i would just glue it in with super glue, thats all i did,and not had one complaint yet lol tempting fate yeah I'm sure

Hi Carl I have tried the superglue it stops it from spinning but the nut will strip if you do it to tight. I have put the ae one in now alot better.

[stegger]

Hi Carl I have tried the superglue it stops it from spinning but the nut will strip if you do it to tight. I have put the ae one in now alot better.

Spencer, are you using the B4 bolt, spring and the one piece T nut or just the T nut and bolt ?
:)

[Spencer Mulcahy]

I am using the bolt and t nut not the spring. Not sure if I should use the spring as well but it feels better now and the setting of the diff is better as you are not frightened of stripping the nut.

[stegger]

I am using the bolt and t nut not the spring. Not sure if I should use the spring as well but it feels better now and the setting of the diff is better as you are not frightened of stripping the nut.

Cheers dude :thumbsup:

[steveproracing]

I used the ae spring aswell. If u compare the ae spring with the tlr one u will notice that the tlr one goes coilbound very quickly. The ae spring gives a much more progressive adjustment range to the diff!!

[Delves]

Ive just rebuilt my diff after destroying it at the weekend. Things that I did differently;

1) I used Tamiya Hard Damper grease on the back of the diff plates to stop the plate from slipping (I always used this grease when building my TC Tamiya diffs to stop the plates slipping on the diff halves... got this tip of Hupo when he was driving for Tam a few years back).

2) I have used a whole world of black grease on the thrust, and then again a load of clear grease in the diff.

3) Ran the diff in at low speed (for around 5-8 mins) and slowly tightened it up till it was as tight

I have kept everything standard, so no ceramic balls! But after all that the diff feels good on the bench, but the test will be after the first practice on Sunday. Just thought I would share this and hope the info comes in handy... will report back after sunday to let you guys know if the diff held up better than before :)

As I said I would report back on this... the diff held up and remained smooth throughout the day. A definite improvement on the previous week where the diff had gritted up after 1 run. Only thing I would say if that the diff feels tight in action rather than free like those running with the ceramic balls. But for those that aren't going the ceramic ball route this worked to good effect :)

[kinggareth]

I am using the bolt and t nut not the spring. Not sure if I should use the spring as well but it feels better now and the setting of the diff is better as you are not frightened of stripping the nut.

I've used the ae bolt and screw but when tightening the screw down I firstly shattered one of the thrust bearing washers, then after I'd replaced that the screw snapped as i tightened it!!

I swear I'm never going to get to drive this car!!

I'm guessing that I'm going too tight, but the destructions did say tighten right down then loosen - and the screw was still turning.

[ianjoyner]

I'm guessing that I'm going too tight, but the destructions did say tighten right down then loosen - and the screw was still turning.

Yes I'm not sure the manual is very clear there, I don't know if it just means tighten until the lugs on the diff nut holder get to the end of the slot, but even that is probably a bit tight. I don't know why you would want to tighten it beyond where it won't easily slip.

I've rebuilt my completely standard diff twice now, I had to glue the nut in the holder, other than that it has worked okay, but it does start to feel crunchy soon after running it, even if it is free and doesn't slip. I got about 4 meetings out of it first time before it got very crunchy. A friend's built his standard but with ceramic balls and it felt smoother than mine ever did, so I'll try some of those, if it's smoother in the first place, it will probably last longer.

[jampat2004]

I've used the ae bolt and screw but when tightening the screw down I firstly shattered one of the thrust bearing washers, then after I'd replaced that the screw snapped as i tightened it!!

I swear I'm never going to get to drive this car!!

I'm guessing that I'm going too tight, but the destructions did say tighten right down then loosen - and the screw was still turning.
hi
i knew about these probs with the diff just before i built my 22 as a friend of mine had probs with his.
the way i did mine was to get the diff bolt and the diff nut run the nut up and down the bolt twice,this makes a smooth thread in the nyloc nut and stops you stripping the plastic nut carrier.
next get your diff spring and compress it a few times with a pair of pliers,carry on and build the diff run the diff bolt up till you feel some resistance then being gentle and feeling how tight you go you will feel that the spring has compressed ,back off 1/4 of a turn and your diff should be good.
this is how i built mine first time with no issues,if your having to replace your broken kit parts buy yourself a ceramic diff balls and thrust ball kit,the kit balls are poor quality and the diff gets notchy after just one run.hope this helps :thumbsup:

[Wacker 2]

I built mine as per kit to start and I had issues too...

I had read on here that the nut turned easily in its plastic housing and so when I built it up I used a drop of super glue to glue the nut in before assembling and I am pleased to say that I have had no issues what so ever with that.

After running mine it felt really rough after 1 run using the standard balls and thrustrace... when I stripped it down the diff plates looked a mess but the thrust plates didn't look too bad so I think the main issues is the diff balls and not the thrust balls.

Saying that I did rebuild it with Vampire ceramic diff balls, brand new diff rings and ceramic thrust balls from RcLazy and brand new thrust plates.... After running it all day at the regional at Oswestry on Sunday, 'The Zohan' would say it felt "Silky Smooth"!!!

I havent experienced any problems with the nut stripping but I may look at getting the AE diff nut, screw and spring and install them as I know they are strong... trying to prevent any problem before they happen.

Very happy with the diff now - ceramic is the way forward :thumbsup:

[Muggydude]

Just some tips I learned from Dustin Evans the other day when he helped me build my diff (we share the same home track!:thumbsup:)

Use AE Clear and Black Grease
The stock rings are presanded, the best you will find in any kit.
Ceramic Thrust Bearings with some quality carbide main diff balls is the way to go. The stock diff balls can have problems with quality. I'm using BFAST ones and they are excellent quality.
Make sure you break the diff in properly! And DO NOT let the diff slip. It likes to be run tight
You don't need too much clear grease on the diff balls.
A little clear grease on the bottom of the rings helps keep them from slipping.

[lynx75]

Just some tips I learned from Dustin Evans the other day when he helped me build my diff (we share the same home track!:thumbsup:)

Use AE Clear and Black Grease
The stock rings are presanded, the best you will find in any kit.
Ceramic Thrust Bearings with some quality carbide main diff balls is the way to go. The stock diff balls can have problems with quality. I'm using BFAST ones and they are excellent quality.
Make sure you break the diff in properly! And DO NOT let the diff slip. It likes to be run tight
You don't need too much clear grease on the diff balls.
A little clear grease on the bottom of the rings helps keep them from slipping.

Thanks for sharing this.

I would like to receive a confirmation.
In the 22 manual at page 30 the diff screw must be keep on the left side of the car (if we look the car from the rear).

Is it correct, isn't it? Could you confirm it please?

because the B4 keep the screw on the right side of the car.

Thanks,
Marco.

[Wacker 2]

From what I remember you have the diff screw on the motor side... so if ur running mid motor and you look at the car from the front, the diff screw will be on the left hand side.... but if you're building it as rear motor then the diff screw will be on the right hand side.

The fact that you can use the diff in the same direction with the diff screw in either side, would suggest to me that it doesn't really matter which way round you put it.

I reckon they suggest you having the diff screw on the motor side in each configeration so that it is easier to get to when you wanna adjust it... clipping off ball studs on the spur gear / gear cover side is a always a pain in the backside as there's less room!

I'm sticking with the manual... no problems so far :thumbsup:

[ianjoyner]

From what I remember you have the diff screw on the motor side... so if ur running mid motor and you look at the car from the front, the diff screw will be on the left hand side.... but if you're building it as rear motor then the diff screw will be on the right hand side.

Yep, that's what the manual says.

[lynx75]

Here below the screen shot of the 22's manual.

Its seems the adjustable screw is on the left of the car (if you look the car from the rear).

BTW, the adjustable screw is not oriented to the slipper side then

Is it correct? did you test it?

thanks

[Chopster]

Here below the screen shot of the 22's manual.

Its seems the adjustable screw is on the left of the car (if you look the car from the rear).

BTW, the adjustable screw is not oriented to the slipper side then

Is it correct? did you test it?

thanks

Yep, in the rear motor config.. (1 idler in the box)

[Gnarly Old Dog]

I'm not sure it really matters which side. After all, you can't have a diff loosen itself when fitted one way but not tighten itself when fitted the other - can you?

If it did loosen or tighten, I would suspect something is wrong in the diff assembly - probably with with the thrust race as in theory, the screw head should not be affected by the rotation of whichever outdrive cup it resides in.

I tend to fit mine so that the screw hex head is on the side which makes it easiest to access for adjustment. In the mid car, this is (for me) with the hex screw head on the right.

For the rear car, I would be tempted to build it with the screw hex head on the left side - purely because the spur gear cover is on the opposite side so I imagine access would be easier on the left (for the rear motor).

[Neil78]

Would like to know people's thoughts on wether or not to grease the out drives before fitting the diff rings.The manual says to do so, some people say not to put any on and clean both surfaces and others seem to glue there's on.Would like to know the correct method as i'm about to rebuild my diff with new ceramic balls.

[mrspeedy]

I used some really sticky Tamiya grease to stick the diff rings to the outdrives as someone suggested and it works well, no slip and butter smooth diffs :thumbsup:

[Bagman]

I used a very small amount of the kit clear grease and found this worked well.

[Muggydude]

^ what Dustin Evans does/suggested.

[Delves]

Would like to know people's thoughts on wether or not to grease the out drives before fitting the diff rings.The manual says to do so, some people say not to put any on and clean both surfaces and others seem to glue there's on.Would like to know the correct method as i'm about to rebuild my diff with new ceramic balls.

Sorry this is a little late, but definitely grease the outdrive as this will help to stop the plate spinning on the diff halves when under load.

[Lowie]

sticky Tamiya Grease here

[Neil78]

Thanks for your reply's most people say to grease them. But some cars come with hex shaped diff plates and out drives which physically cannot slip as they are locked in, based on this would it not be better to glue the plates to the out drives to eliminate slip altogether.

[mrspeedy]

Yes it would, but then you can't flip them over at a later date and use the other side ...

[Nik the name]

I was told the Associated Gear Diff would fit into the gearbox of the 22.
Does anybody know if it's true?

[Matt Trimmings]

I was told the Associated Gear Diff would fit into the gearbox of the 22.
Does anybody know if it's true?
Negative

[ianjoyner]

I've rebuilt mine now with B-Fast carbide balls and done 12 runs in dusty conditions and the diff still feels fine. Everything except the balls is stock, so that confirms for me that the stock balls were at fault somehow, but the rest of the diff is okay.

[russmini]

Well mines now a few meetings old and 2 full days worth of testing and the Diff is still as sweet as the day i built it, over a month now i think.

It is Completely Standard, but i took my time building it and used the greases i always use and made sure it was all correct and right before i put it in and then used it.

:thumbsup:

[Chris56]

I changed the balls for the Answer RC ceramic ones and, and the nut for a tamiya one. The thrust races are still standard. I've done 2 indoor club nights plus East Trax over the weekend and it has held well - no need for adjustment

[andys]

I've rebuilt mine now with B-Fast carbide balls and done 12 runs in dusty conditions and the diff still feels fine. Everything except the balls is stock, so that confirms for me that the stock balls were at fault somehow, but the rest of the diff is okay.

Same story here, built standard diff to perfection, set slipper at 1st indoor run, after 2nd indoor meetings, felt like a bag of spanners.

New 'lazy' ball set installed and diff is fine.

Kit balls are crap - end of.

[till]

hey guys,
I just want to give you another possebility to try and play around with!
The AE geardiff fits in with a little simming =) I could´t try it yet, but 2 of my club mates did and it runs very well !!

have fun with trying and let me know the results :p

Till

[Ferret]

That is odd. I thought about it but Losi diff gears have 51 teeth and the AE ones 52.
So I assumed that the mashing between the diff gear and the idler would be too tight.

[Nik the name]

Two guys at my local racetrack are also running the AE Gear Diffs.
A bit of shimming and they fit perfectly :)

[jaydits]

just put ceramic balls in it and its perfect
have raced 2 day,s on astro and stil feel super smooth

[Martyn (Bomber)]

As a fix for the dodgy nut holder u have several solutions that work
1. Put the nut in the holder then drip superglue in the nut end and let it set before rebuilding diff
2 use a tamiya nut and diff holder. (they are an exact fit!)

3. Use an associated diff screw and 1 piece nut/holder. This is also a perfect fit. The thread is not the same as losi which is why u need the screw as well.
The screw is a little longer so u get a more progressive adjustment range. However it is not too long that it impinges any driveshft travel in the outdrives

Number 3 IMO is the best fix. And a permanent one that is much cheaper than paying £10-15 for an alloy nut holder!!

I have just done this with the associated diff rebuild kit and it works perfectly :thumbsup: