Share your best B4.1 tips!

[andjoh]

So, Share your best B4.1 tips with us :D

[ian h]

So, Share your best B4.1 tips with us :D

Convert it to something mid motored.:woot::woot:

[nicVEGAchildJR]

BUY A VEGA!!!!!:thumbsup:

[Dudders]

Convert it to something mid motored.:woot::woot:

Depends on surface to be honest. My B4.1 is dialed on grass.

I'd love to see a TOP driver run two cars back to back, one rear and the other mid motor and compare the times :confused:

[GRIFF55]

Get yourself some weights in there. AE ballast weight for the rear and rudebits under lipo and under servo weight;)
Rich Lowe put his in the 'A' at rhr, so see if he has his setup somewhere too look at too.

[Chrislong]

Put Factory team Carbon rear wishbones on it, the kit ones are wibbly-wobbly.

Glue the servo saver, or put on a fixed alloy steering set. I opted for the latter after breaking glued servo savers.

[Wraggy]

BUY A VEGA!!!!!:thumbsup:
:yawn::yawn::yawn:

[Timee80]

I don't think that richard lowe runs with much weight in the car griff. I'm sure he's a beleiver in running light chassis. I maybe wrong tho

[Richard Lowe]

I'll get my RHR setup posted in the setups section soon, I've actually started running a fair bit of weight in the car recently as an experiment - still not sure just yet :p

Usually I run the Trishbits front bulkhead (~40g) + brace (~7g) and antisquat/toe block (~28g) everywhere. At RHR I also had a Rudebits 72g under servo weight + 66g lipo weight.

As Chris has mentioned the carbon rear arms are a must on the B4.1, the new plastic is a bit too floppy there IMO. I've tried both back to back, the carbon arms just make everything better in general - more grip, more consistent and much better through bumps :)

[Steven Forster]

Put Factory team Carbon rear wishbones on it, the kit ones are wibbly-wobbly.

Glue the servo saver, or put on a fixed alloy steering set. I opted for the latter after breaking glued servo savers.

What is the reason for gluing the servo saver.........:confused::confused::confused:

cheers :)

[/tobys]

stops it unloading when cornering (which gives a vague steering feel).

[Steven Forster]

stops it unloading when cornering (which gives a vague steering feel).

will that not stop the servo saver from working :confused:

cheers :)

[/tobys]

The parts that are v-grooved (and held together under pressure by the spring and nut) are glued together so they become a solid piece.

[MattADH]

will that not stop the servo saver from working :confused:

cheers :)

Yes it does stop the servo saver from working. TBH, I have never felt the need to do this but I do crank it up so its as tight as possible...

[flipside]

the carbon arms just make everything better in general - more grip, more consistent and much better through bumps :)

Hi richard!

I agree that they are floppy, but I found they give a massive amount of rear end grip. I swapped them for stiffer ones to get back some more steering into the car :eh?: (astro track)

Was even thinking of using the floppy arms on dirt tracks.

Did you ever try the difference between inboard and outboard toe-in?

[uijui]

In Finland IFMAR warmup, all the A-final cars were back motored. Even Losis, no cougars there. Cavalieri was fast as hell.

[uijui]

I think that fastest mid-motored was Jose (JQ), but he is just sick fast :woot:

[Lonestar]

I'll get my RHR setup posted in the setups section soon, I've actually started running a fair bit of weight in the car recently as an experiment - still not sure just yet :p

Usually I run the Trishbits front bulkhead (~40g) + brace (~7g) and antisquat/toe block (~28g) everywhere. At RHR I also had a Rudebits 72g under servo weight + 66g lipo weight.

As Chris has mentioned the carbon rear arms are a must on the B4.1, the new plastic is a bit too floppy there IMO. I've tried both back to back, the carbon arms just make everything better in general - more grip, more consistent and much better through bumps :)

Richard

you've just ruined my hopes of getting someone to finally get a "light" setup to work...

Paul

[Bastos]

From my own experiences...a 2WD need to be a little bit heavy to be a great car, on every tracks.
The "light" weight setups from the Team Associated were, I think, a bad experience for Associated ( not so bad but...there is something wrong ).
1600 gr is a minimum for me.( or for common driver like me ) :)

[flipside]

I agree, there is no disadvantage at all to a heavier car. I does everything better: more grip, more stability, better in bumps, better in the air,...

1620-1650 is ideal I think

[Eimer]

What shock o-rings do you use? I use the blue ones from MIP, but now they dont sale them any more. Are there any options to the standard orange Asso o-rings, which keep the shock fresh for a longer time?

[wayboarder]

Kyosho clear X-o-rings.

[Richard Lowe]

I use Nor-Tech 'Whities' in all my shocks :)

[smokes]

can I glue up the servo saver and leave the spring I have striped the thread when i was rebuilding it...

Also how how you clean the cars when stripping them down, I am using mountian bike cleaner is this okay?

[Martijn]

I just unscrew everything, and just wash the plastic parts with water and soap...

I saw there are some new parts from Associated??
part number: 9873 and 7495

Anyone tried them already, and will this make a big difference?