RB5 SP2 VEGA SETUP

[reg]

Hi,as the car has been out for a while could someone let me know a good starting point,a good all round setup,would the std sp2 setup that comes with the rear kit be ok to get used to the car,
thanks
Mark

[spenner]

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/teamxtreme/SetupSheetsVegaElite.html

Take your pick....

[reg]

Hi spenner,i found this one of yours from a while back,how did you find this one were are you at now

Front
32.5wt Oil (losi)
Piston 2c
Orange spring #55
Shock mounted outside hole on wishbone
Middle on Tower
Short Track (Washer on the inside of front axles)
Inner link position - middle with 2 washers
Outer link - long
Pivot block spacers - None
Kick up - 25 degree


Rear
27.5wt oil (Losi)
Piston 3a
Blue Spring #68
New Inside hole on wishbone (drilled one hole in from original postion)
Outside hole on revised tower.
Wheelbase - long in the dry, short in wet or when track is loose.
Camber link inner - lower, outer hole (short)
Camber link hub - Inner (short)
1 Degree Alloy hubs, 2mm washer under ballstud.
Roll bar - none

Tyres - Dry: Schu Staggers front, Yellow mini spikes rear
Wet: Schu Green Minis, Ballistic Buggy Green Spikes
Inserts - Answer RC Medium all round

Rudebits under speedo weight - 92g
If track is bumpy i add the Rudebits under lipo 72g
Wing - Vega low profile
Vega steering link

[spenner]

For a general setup that will be good for you... I still use that on 95% of the tracks i race on.

[reg]

For a general setup that will be good for you... I still use that on 95% of the tracks i race on.


thanks:thumbsup:

[reg]

Hi, was just wondering what the std rear toe is with running the plastic hingpin holders that come with the sp2 kit,iv got the one that says rf2 on it,what is the std anti squat iv got no shims under the hingepin holders,there also seems to be not much droop on the rear,do you run different shock bottoms,id usualy just undo the the shock shaft but there isnt alot to play with to keep it strong,also on the vega kit,in the bag with the motor mount the are 2 plastic shims,what are they for,thanks

[reg]

:eh?:

[tomtom]

I'm building mine right now, got to figure out what to do.

The two small shims are here for the layshaft. I've not shimed it yet but you could need one or two, keep a little slop, no binding.

I'm very pleased with the car material and design, even the shell didn't look that bad, kind of like it.

[reg]

I'm building mine right now, got to figure out what to do.

The two small shims are here for the layshaft. I've not shimed it yet but you could need one or two, keep a little slop, no binding.

I'm very pleased with the car material and design, even the shell didn't look that bad, kind of like it.


im not to sure the shims are for the lay saft,i would exspect them to be metal as the plasic would wear on the spinning part of eather the bearing or the shaft itself,i dont think they will last inside and wouldnt want them getting mashed up,i think they might be for the motor on the motor mount,
i keep asking on here because the more info that is available the more chance of the average joe(me)will get the most of this car just by looking on here,

[AndrewCaunt]

Hi, was just wondering what the std rear toe is with running the plastic hingpin holders that come with the sp2 kit,iv got the one that says rf2 on it,what is the std anti squat iv got no shims under the hingepin holders,there also seems to be not much droop on the rear,do you run different shock bottoms,id usualy just undo the the shock shaft but there isnt alot to play with to keep it strong,also on the vega kit,in the bag with the motor mount the are 2 plastic shims,what are they for,thanks

You have to use the long tops there are long and short ones in the kit the SP2 type are the ones you need.The nylon shims i beleive they are not used in gear box.I think they are for the studs thet go in to hold bulk head to stop them coming loose.I used thread lock.Hope this helps.

[tomtom]

im not to sure the shims are for the lay saft,i would exspect them to be metal as the plasic would wear on the spinning part of eather the bearing or the shaft itself,i dont think they will last inside and wouldnt want them getting mashed up,i think they might be for the motor on the motor mount,
i keep asking on here because the more info that is available the more chance of the average joe(me)will get the most of this car just by looking on here,


Well, that was Kevin Lee answer :

The Shims are to shim the layshaft. Make sure you leave a little end float though so it doesn't bind.

[reg]

Well, that was Kevin Lee answer :

The Shims are to shim the layshaft. Make sure you leave a little end float though so it doesn't bind.


:woot:.....i supose if anyone should know:thumbsup:......were abouts do they go

[reg]

Hi, was just wondering what the std rear toe is with running the plastic hingpin holders that come with the sp2 kit,iv got the one that says rf2 on it,what is the std anti squat iv got no shims under the hingepin holders,there also seems to be not much droop on the rear,do you run different shock bottoms,id usualy just undo the the shock shaft but there isnt alot to play with to keep it strong,also on the vega kit,in the bag with the motor mount the are 2 plastic shims,what are they for,thanks


anyone:confused:

[chris brown]

The plastic shims are for putting on your transmitter sticks to make them taller.

[reg]

The plastic shims are for putting on your transmitter sticks to make them taller.


thats ok then i dont need them as i use a steer wheel:lol:
just a quick pic of the droop or lack of it




http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=666&pictureid=4170

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=666&pictureid=4171

[Rebelrc]

Move shocks in on the wishbone and in on tower... Hey presto ... Droop. Just like on all Rc cars lol
The team guys are adding an extra hole inner on the rear wishbone.
Hope this helps

[RudeTony]

Rebec is correct as always :)

[Dave Dodd]

thats ok then i dont need them as i use a steer wheel:lol:
just a quick pic of the droop or lack of it




http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=666&pictureid=4170

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=666&pictureid=4171

very nice, especially like the shock tower lots of adjust-ability :thumbsup:

[Adam F]

From my experience, its best to put washers either side of your rear inner camber link balls as the multi drilled section is very thin in between the holes.

[reg]

Move shocks in on the wishbone and in on tower... Hey presto ... Droop. Just like on all Rc cars lol


:woot:.........could someone pop a pic up,just interested to see how far away from the two holes it is,as i have the sp2 rear arms and wondered if it goes next to the other two holes or on the flat part of the arm,
also i would like to know what the toe in and anti squat is,
do the team run the longer rear shock bodys that come with the sp rather than the shorted ones that come with the sp2


From my experience, its best to put washers either side of your rear inner camber link balls as the multi drilled section is very thin in between the holes.

thanks,i did notice that were it was drilled out there is alot of the carbon missing,

[Mars]

Hi, just ordered a Vega/RB5 kit this week!
I want to race it indoor on carpet/gym floor track with Schu minipins.
Any tips?
Thanks

[RudeTony]

Hi yah
I would be starting with the following

Front
40w Oil Losi
Piston 3A - Silver Spring - It will feel stiff
Shock mounted outside hole on wishbone and middle on the tower
On your front link have 2 mm washer under the inner side and mount on middle hole and the outer link on long position
Kick up - 30 degree


Rear
30w Losi
Piston 3a with a Cobalt Spring
Inside hole on wishbone and outside hole on tower.
Long wheelbase is normal for me but if twisty then short.
Put your camber link inner on the lower outer hole of the tower with it at the longest on the hub - go upper row of holes on tower if you need more side bite
0 deg rear habs

Under speedo weight - 92g and this never comes out of mine!
Under Lipo weight should be adjusted subject to what type of track.
If there are little jumps, rumble strips etc that upset a normal car then run under lipo 74g

Schumacher Staggers up front - old type with no foam
Schumacher pins on the rear

Good luck and let us know how you got on.
If you are same venue as me then come to see me.

[Mars]

Hi Tony,

thank you very much for all this precious informations!
Rudebits weight ordered.

[RudeTony]

Hi yah all
I run Big Bore shocks on my 2wd for the first time yesterday indoors on carpet with jumps and slippery sections.
With a variation of different pistons on the way for testing I run very close to my normal set up as listed below but with this combination of oils and pistons.
The result was really good but unfortunately got beat by Darren Bloomfield in the final (he is good though!!) LOL


Front - Big Bore
Piston standard 5 hole - New Super Hard Orange
40w Oil Losi
Shock mounted outside hole on wishbone and middle on the tower
3 mm washer under the inner side of link - middle hole
Outerr link on long position
Kick up - 30 degree


Rear - Big Bore
Piston 5 hole drilled to 1.4 with a Yellow Spring
30w Losi
Drilled additional very inside hole on wishbone and one in from the outside on the tower.
Short wheelbase
Camber link inner on the lower outer hole of the tower with it at the longest on the hub
0 deg rear habs

Under speedo weight - 92g and this never comes out of mine!
Under Lipo weight should be adjusted subject to what type of track.
If there are little jumps, rumble strips etc that upset a normal car then run under lipo 74g

Ride height at 20mm

Schumacher Staggers up front - old type with no foam
Schumacher pins on the rear

[nottmboy]

tony
are the spings used the kit ones or are they option ones?
cheers andy

[InsideLineModels]

The front orange springs are definitely option springs. Not sure what rear spring come with the kit. We'll find out next week I suppose!

[RudeTony]

Hi yah Andy, Kevin is correct the front springs are the NEW ones, part no. K.XGS006,
The rears did came with the shocks if I recal but unforunately there is no way we can know what the new kits come with.
I have emails Japan but not even sure they will give us an accurate answer - sorry we will have to wait like Kevin said - not long now :)

[nottmboy]

hi
there seems to be plenty of info regarding the under speedo and under battery weight but nothing regarding the servo weight is it not used?
or under what circumstances would it be used?
cheers andy

[RudeTony]

hi
there seems to be plenty of info regarding the under speedo and under battery weight but nothing regarding the servo weight is it not used?
or under what circumstances would it be used?
cheers andy

Hi Andy
I use it if there are jumps that I want the nose to come down quicker or if the car pushes out of the corner. On some tracks where tracks are really high and the nose comes up it is helpful then too.
Hope this helps you

[Adam F]

My current setup.. (Very close to Matt O's old setup)

Currently lacking mid corner on carpet..

Front
35wt Oil (losi)
Piston 2c
Orange spring #55
Outside hole on wishbone
Middle on Tower
Wide Track
Inner link position - middle with 2 washers
Outer link - long
Pivot block spacers - None
Kick up - 30 degree


Rear
27.5wt oil (Losi)
Piston 3a
Blue Spring #68
New Inside hole on wishbone (drilled one hole in from original postion)
3rd hole out on tower
Wheelbase - short on hub, short inner
Camber link inner - lower, outer hole
Camber link hub - (1 deg alloy hub) inner hole (shortest-alloy)
Roll bar - none

-1 Degree camber all round.

Tyres - Yellow Mini pins rear and staggers front (old style, no foam)
Inserts - medium

Rudebits under speedo weight - 92g
Rudebits under lipo weight - 62g
Rudebits under servo weight 28g?
Wing - Team Xtreme med downforce
Vega steering links

[Chalkie]

You could have asked me tuesday if you wanted, but you could try these changes

0 or 0.5 deg rear hubs, no need for that much toe in on high grip carpet
Take the under lipo weight out
Move the rear shocks to the middle hole on the wishbone
Maybe try minipins on the front with the outer rows cut off

[Adam F]

Cheers James,

Had bigger problems on Tuesday. (transponder wasn't counting)

Have tried 0, but just freed the rear a bit, but didnt change the steering..

The pins only lasted one clubby at the new silverstone track and were completely bald! Thought I would try and make the staggers work cos I'm cheap..

[InsideLineModels]

Agree with chalkie, I use 0 degrees most of the time. Also agree with the lipo weight as it tends to slow the reaction down. It's good for bumpy tracks though.

Moving the shocks out on the rear wishbone will help keep the car flatter but you will lose turn-in.

Other things to try are:

Raising the inner front ballstud. I tend to run 3 or 4mm on high grip. This will gives more mid and exit, and will chill the car out a little going in.

Try long wheelbase... Short is great for low grip, but I find the rear gets locked in too much on high grip.

Remove some anti squat, I'm currently running a 1mm Spacer under the rear pivot brace.

Make sure you're not running the car too low. I tend to run at driveshafts level (or just under), even indoors.

Also try, short neck ballstuds on your steering Ackerman link. It helps get more lock. I noticed the WC kit comes with them now.

And.... try without the under steering weight as that will slow the reaction down too. Most of the time I run with either 45 or 90 under the speedo. Quite often just 45g

Hope that helps

[Chalkie]

Yeah it's pretty hard on tyres and cells, i managed to take 2400mah out of a set of cells in one round.

Two other things worth trying are 25 deg caster and as a last resort narrow front track width.

[deepdale11]

what does the kickup do and when should you run 25 and when should you run 30 degree?

[Chalkie]

Also try, short neck ballstuds on your steering Ackerman link. It helps get more lock. I noticed the WC kit comes with them now.


That will give less ackerman similar to the vega steering arms correct?

[Chalkie]

what does the kickup do and when should you run 25 and when should you run 30 degree?

25 deg should give more steering on the way in to the corner and 30 deg should give more steering on the way out, but like most things it's not always that simple.

[InsideLineModels]

That will give less ackerman similar to the vega steering arms correct?

It actually gives slightly less ackerman, but it allows the inner wheel to lock out more, and so you get more overall lock because it's not limiting the outer wheel too. I find that with a longer ballstud, the inner and outer stud, and the steering arm pin get in line too early before its fully locked out. You can check if this is happening by steering full lock on the transmitter, and seeing if there is play in the inner wheel.

Not sure that makes sense but hope it does..:)

[InsideLineModels]

Just to check another thing Adam. You say you are in the shortest link on the hub. Do you have any spacers under there?

[Chalkie]

It actually gives slightly less ackerman, but it allows the inner wheel to lock out more, and so you get more overall lock because it's not limiting the outer wheel too. I find that with a longer ballstud, the inner and outer stud, and the steering arm pin get in line too early before its fully locked out. You can check if this is happening by steering full lock on the transmitter, and seeing if there is play in the inner wheel.

Not sure that makes sense but hope it does..:)

If you mean that your get more lock on the outside wheel before the steering knuckle hits the C hub on the inside wheel then that makes sense.

[InsideLineModels]

No, what I'm trying to say is the the steering lock is limited by the fact that that inner wheel steering knuckle can't hit the c hub with a long ball joint on. Everything becomes in line before that can happen.

[tomtom]

I learn a lot with this car, on setups and by driving it as consistent as possible.

Matt really help a lot, so friendly and helpfull I instantly been found of UK RC racers and people like Kevin and the whole Oople community didn't change any of that.

Run a lot with Matt setup, turn well, very stable and secure. The car is amazing.
No underlipo weight, too smooth and a bit lazy. No under servo weight as it bring a bit of nose diving I didn't like on small double whoops. 92g esc weight always.
Long wheelbase helps, as well as 0 hubs (very high grip bumpy). 0.5 was way too much on high grip for sure, it locks the rear way too much

Setup like that front and rear weights are in balance somewhat. Jumps perfectly flat. Either adding front, rear or both weights or adjust wheelbase really transfer easily on front/rear traction balance

Think it was it. Shut up and play your guitar like Zappa said.

Read Tony's post, start with a silver spring and got less steering overall but a more agressive feel entering the turn. Need braking on twisty parts but better overall. More stable on the front so I could attack more. Definetly an upgrade over my previous setup, Steering arms mod might help that but I guess the good setup is in between too much steering and not enough, and practice make me think a car with not enough is always faster, you can always use the off power steering or brake.

With 3B and silver/cobalt springs, it's almost perfect. Up to a point, corner speed is just too much and it tend to grip roll (but I'm not a good driver :bored:), will try black springs rear to resolve that but there is still a huge margin for setup improvement.

Next to come WC parts, big bores and long chassis. One thing for sure you won't think about any other car available when you got that one and for a long time never will.

[Chalkie]

No, what I'm trying to say is the the steering lock is limited by the fact that that inner wheel steering knuckle can't hit the c hub with a long ball joint on. Everything becomes in line before that can happen.

Right I understand now.

[RudeTony]

Agree with everything said to help you and in addition I would change from the rear blue spring to the cobalt spring.
The stiffer rear spring will alow the rear to come round quicker and also jack up quicker to transfer the weight forward for steering and not collapse on power to give it back to the rear.
Like Kev siad get 0 deg rear hubs on - No need to lock the rear in so much with more tow in.
I personally run even more anti-squat than Kev (LOL I didn't know) to no rear spacer and that makes the car turn even more mid corner.
Saying all that everyone has to remember that we all drive differently and it's ALWAYS worth trying the advice and learning your car :)

[gainsy]

Racing a friends rb5 vega at stotfold on sunday :D
Any tips for a good starting point guys?
It has standard shocks on not big bores

[InsideLineModels]

Is it Richard's?

If it is I think he may have my setup on there.

It looks like its going to be wet though so change the following:

Short wheelbase and add some weight to the rear ether side of the motor (I run 20g rudebits prototypes each side). Make sure rear driveshafts are level.

3b pistons all round with 25wt rear, 35 front - losi oil

Try yellow rear springs or even black if you have them.

[Adam F]

Just to check another thing Adam. You say you are in the shortest link on the hub. Do you have any spacers under there?

No, I don't have any spacers on the rear.

Will try all this stuff next week, just want to get it as sorted as possible for the MK GP...

[gainsy]

Hi Kev
Yes it's Richards car, he's using his new lazer on sunday
Will ask him to make the changes so it's ready to go
Thanks for the advice :thumbsup:

[Skye]

Hi Kev, just picking up on your message to Stu.... The last time I ran the vega in the wet I made the changes to your set up as advised but still really struggled for rear traction.i turned the ESC right down and was as light as possible on the throttle but the car was still like a ballet dancer. What weight would you advise round Stotfold in the wet? As standard I have the full ESC, servo and speedo weights in but feel like it needs weight adding to the rear. There isn't anywhere much to add weight further back than the lipo on the vega chassis though is there?

[InsideLineModels]

Hi Kev, just picking up on your message to Stu.... The last time I ran the vega in the wet I made the changes to your set up as advised but still really struggled for rear traction.i turned the ESC right down and was as light as possible on the throttle but the car was still like a ballet dancer. What weight would you advise round Stotfold in the wet? As standard I have the full ESC, servo and speedo weights in but feel like it needs weight adding to the rear. There isn't anywhere much to add weight further back than the lipo on the vega chassis though is there?

Definatley take the servo weight out and if you can, possibly, remove the speedo weight if you still can't get on the power. You can add weight in the pockets either side of the motor. I have 40 g in total there. Aslo if you have a half size lipo weight, you can run it under the lipo at the back. I quite often run one there.

Have you drilled the extra hole in the rear wishbone? Standing the shock up on the wishbone and tower will help.

How many washers do you have under the front innner ballstud? in the wet you should be on 1 or 2mm and in the dry i generally run 3 or 4mm.

Make sure it's not too low on ride height.... driveshafts level

I may be there tomorrow afternoon... but i'm just about to leave for a stag do, so we'll see...

[InsideLineModels]

No, I don't have any spacers on the rear.

Will try all this stuff next week, just want to get it as sorted as possible for the MK GP...

Raising that will give less side bite going in.. I pretty much always run 2mm under there

[The Chef]

My Vega seems nose heavy in the air, I'm running under speedo weight and under lipo weight, no under servo weight, any ideas?:cry:

[Adam F]

If you run drag brake it will dive loads, mine is great over the bumps as I'm normally on the throttle.

Kev will try the 2mm under the rear too..

[The Chef]

I didn't even think of that. As i'm off throttle on take off the brake pulls the nose down, genius. I'm such a moron:bored:. I'll take off the drag brake. Thank you.:D

[tomtom]

Remove drag brake really help me to have a flat car while jumping.

Tony, I run without any shim under the rear block, in what circumstances did you add anti squat ? Didn't try that one.

[The Chef]

I've just put Tony's set up on mine and removed my drag brake and I'll go from there

[SimonW]

I have a 150g St/St 3mm plate under my Lipos as i usually race on dirt and grass and my car is really easy to drive, when the grip is there (astro) it understeers out of corners so i change to a 1.5mm plate @ 75g with harder rear springs and the back starts to loosen and the whole car livens up. I would like to get the longer chassis though as it can turn up it's own arse, kinda like the old cat when it first came out in SWB.

[gainsy]

Anyone know the internal gear ratio of the gearbox?

Many thanks Kev for your help on sunday, much appreciated :D

[tomtom]

FDR 2.6

[gainsy]

Thanks tomtom :thumbsup:

[Al3xis007]

Many thanks Kev for your help on sunday, much appreciated :D

yeah thanks kev, those black springs gave me that edge over you lol, awesome race with you me spener and paul :thumbsup:

[InsideLineModels]

It certainly was an entertaining final :)

Nice signature by the way!

[The Chef]

Just Got back from Shrcc, The BEST the Car has ever been with no drag brake, and near as damm it Uncle Tony T's set up Qualified 3 Overall (I've Never done that) behind Springer and Kev Brunstall and finished 3 over all. Amazing a couple of tweeks and remove drag brake and it is a different car:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[The Chef]

Thank you to Big Tony "E" for his advice and friendly help as always at taplow last night.

What front caster does everybody on the RB5 Vega front hubs how many degrees?

[Dudders]

Just Got back from Shrcc, The BEST the Car has ever been with no drag brake, and near as damm it Uncle Tony T's set up Qualified 3 Overall (I've Never done that) behind Springer and Kev Brunstall and finished 3 over all. Amazing a couple of tweeks and remove drag brake and it is a different car:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

You drove superbly!

[The Chef]

Thank you. I felt so good. Q'd 7th in the B at Taplow Friday:wub See how it goes at The GP. How will Practice work there?

[RudeTony]

What front caster does everybody on the RB5 Vega front hubs how many degrees?

The bulkhead can be turned round to give 25 or 30 deg. Run 30 mate.

Put a Blue rear spring on for MK GP as it's slightly less grip than Taplow - see me in the morning!

Practice there will be in heat order - not open practice

[The Chef]

Thank you Tony. I'm going to go back to my Farnham set up. Looking forward to it though. Need to find some pit buddies for banter. I assume the Watts are going:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Will there be catering or do I need to dig out the Noddy lunch box?

[Dudders]

Kristian

There will be food and drink on site.

N

[The Chef]

Cool thank you.

Tony I was referring to the hub castor on the RB not the bulk head configuration.:thumbsup:

[RudeTony]

Cool thank you.

Tony I was referring to the hub castor on the RB not the bulk head configuration.:thumbsup:


LOL - So was I mate - the hubs are 0 deg but when the bulkhead changes so does the angle of the front hubs :)

[The Chef]

LOL - So was I mate - the hubs are 0 deg but when the bulkhead changes so does the angle of the front hubs :)

Cool thanks you.

[Chalkie]

How do the different speedo weights affect the car? I've always ran the 92g but I was wondering if the 45g one would make the car feel more agile at the expense of a little power on steering? Basicly I would like the car to be a bit more responsive when running it indoors.

[stall4king]

Agree with chalkie, I use 0 degrees most of the time. Also agree with the lipo weight as it tends to slow the reaction down. It's good for bumpy tracks though.

Moving the shocks out on the rear wishbone will help keep the car flatter but you will lose turn-in.

Other things to try are:

Raising the inner front ballstud. I tend to run 3 or 4mm on high grip. This will gives more mid and exit, and will chill the car out a little going in.

Try long wheelbase... Short is great for low grip, but I find the rear gets locked in too much on high grip.

Remove some anti squat, I'm currently running a 1mm Spacer under the rear pivot brace.

Make sure you're not running the car too low. I tend to run at driveshafts level (or just under), even indoors.

Also try, short neck ballstuds on your steering Ackerman link. It helps get more lock. I noticed the WC kit comes with them now.

And.... try without the under steering weight as that will slow the reaction down too. Most of the time I run with either 45 or 90 under the speedo. Quite often just 45g

Hope that helps


I thought that if the car was lacking mid-corner, especially on high grip carpet, that you would tend to run more anti-squat? At Worksop indoors i have done the opposite to help the car keep traction on the slippy surface....at the expense, i feel, of some mid-corner steering.

What anti-squat setting seems to be most common on the Vega? I am not currently running the Vega steering link mod...would more anti-squat help the car rotate better?

Cheers :)

[mikeyscott]

I believe more anti squat will help the car rotate better.

My current thoughts at present are whether to try the WC front end or leave it as standard SP2

Also planning on trying non WC tower and other aspects.

Just need to get a decent setup for Off Road Wars next then roll on outdoor season! :)

[Hobie]

I am building my Vega long chassis conversion kit but I have a problem with my gearbox that I couldn't fix yet… The silver aluminium upper part which is linked to the slipper is blocking the whole process. Without it, everything works smoothly but with it, it is just impossible. It is even worse with the black aluminum part, then the gearbox is fully blocked and nothing moves anymore. Given there is no manual, can somebody help me ? Thanks in advance

Bruno

[tomtom]

You got PM Bruno !:woot:

[Mars]

Hi,

I am building my Vega kit with RB5SP2 parts and i have questions.

what is the best rear end set up for the Vega kit long RB5:
- wide (RF2) rear suspension holder or the short one?
- UM 521 or UM 521.1 rear arms?
- UM 519 or UM 519.2 rear hubs?

It 's for racing on indoor carpet track.
Thanks for your help.

[tomtom]

Wide suspension blocks

Either 521 or 521.1 will work. Check the WC rear arms part number, these got more material around inside hinge pins.

I would advise on 0 alloy rear hubs.

[RudeTony]

Bruno
Check the bearing goes ALL the way inside the motor mount.
Sometimes the anodizing builds up and the bearing does not go all the way inside.
If this is the case then just clear it inside the housing with some fine sand paper and it will be fine.

[Hobie]

Thanks Tony for the feedback. I had exactly the same from Tomtom yesterday. I will go for this.
Bruno

[Mars]

Thanks Tomtom,

I will start with wide blocks, UM521 arms, UM519.2 hubs and Tony set up listed on post #22.

[SimonW]

Front:
Shox= Middle/top, Outer Bottom, 75#Lime green spring, 3B 35wt(losi).
C-link= Bulkhead/inner +2mm, Hub/inner
30Deg kick up no spacer
low height ball stud no washer on steering bellcrank and short wheelbase on hub(IMPORTANT)

Rear:
Shox=Middle/top, inner/bottom (not the drilled inner if you've done it) 55#mustard spring, 3B 27.5wt(losi)
C-Link= Tower-upper innermost, Hub/innermost on Alloy block +2mm (0deg toe hub)
2 bump anti-squat shim under RR block(wide track) and use narrow track RF block this makes for 4deg inboard toe.

Tyres= Cut staggers/slim and minispikes rear in yellow
Wing= LMR mounted high
SP V3 7.5 @ 26/78
150g of weight in the lipo tray( i use 3mm st/steel plate cut to fit snug)

This set up has stopped me from selling mine as i was tempted to change.
Any questions just ask.