View Full Version : Monochrome aerosol jobs post yours!
RC944
12-07-2011, 06:38 AM
Wondering if anyone has had any succes spraying their own shells with a one or two colour scheme using just aerosol based paints?
I want to try my hand at some simple one or two colour shells as I'm too scared to bash around in the shell that Jon did for me!
I've seen some single solid colour jobs and with the correct finish and some decals they look retty good just wondering what the best technique is without having to buy too much pro gear.
eyeayen
12-07-2011, 06:56 AM
Draw it out, get the design firm in your head, work out what will work and what won't ( like small details... ) and then just do it, the drawing will give a good idea but you won't know until you try it on a shell. It is real helpful to have a clear picture of what you're doing though !
Jamie.T
12-07-2011, 07:09 AM
Here's one i did last year using Tamiya masking tape and Halfords aerosol cans. Just mark on the outside your design, then cut inside and spray.
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x43/fgsuperstore/DSCF1560.jpg
RC944
12-07-2011, 07:43 AM
Loving the crisp black lines!
U1timate PigDog
12-07-2011, 05:39 PM
You can do allsorts of nice paint jobs using spray cans your imagination is the limit, the tricky bit is not hammering onto much paint so you cant see the rest of the design and obviously shadows would be a touch tricky :D.
I used to measure the size of the area i was painting, draw the design out on card and cut out as a stencils, laydown some wide masking tape (ovelap if neede be) on a cutting board, draw around the stencil.
but it is also more costly to buy loads of cans at £5 ish per can, I would normally do 3 colour max with cans. 2 main colours and a dividing colour.
Good luck
eyeayen
12-07-2011, 07:30 PM
Just go the whole hog and buy an airbrush, you know you want to, go on, just one try you won't get addicted, none of the rest of us have :lol:
I do all mine using rattle cans. Tamiya white and gunmetal and fastrax chrome :thumbsup:
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/mark_dyson/29072010266.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/mark_dyson/trf201-01.jpg
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/mark_dyson/SharkLWB02.jpg
RC944
13-07-2011, 08:39 AM
my gosh mark that is sublime
RC944
13-07-2011, 08:40 AM
if i dont have film on the outside of the shell do i need to liquid mask it to prevent overspray. what markers do i used to ensure i can get it off!
Jamie.T
13-07-2011, 08:42 AM
If you dont have film for the outside, just use cling-film. As for markers, i just use a small black felt tip pen.
RC944
13-07-2011, 09:31 AM
cheers and to mask windows etc does tape leave clean enough finish or liquid mask better
to be honest im not going to take this up big time but want to do 2 or 3 of my own but not have to fork out wedge on pro stuff
U1timate PigDog
13-07-2011, 04:41 PM
Masking tape is ok but it doesn't leave no where near as crisp and clean lines as liquid mask.
my gosh mark that is sublime
Thanks :).
I use Tamiya masking tape for straight edges and Parma uncut vinyl mask sheet (PAR10799) for curved ones and to cover large areas I use Copydex.
For anyone that doesn't know, Copydex is a liquid latex fabric adheasive that you brush on and it dries clear(ish). Ive not seen anyone else use Copydex apart from me but its great for covering large areas and the outside of shells that don't have protection film. The only problem is you cant cut it easily so its best to use masking tape for the edges then just fill inbeteen. When you need to remove it it comes off in one neat sheet with no resedue, and its cheap :thumbsup:
http://www.rcplanet.com/v/vspfiles/templates/rcplanet/images/clear1x1.gif
if you dont want to use liquid mask, try 3m fine line tape, its what we use on full size stuff for lining out stripe work, masking tape the paint tends to seep under the edges, unless you cut it with a sharp blade
eyeayen
13-07-2011, 08:05 PM
The Tamiya masking tape is super cool though, from Japan and the best I've ever used. 3mm Fine line tape is okay for bigger stuff but you can't get the curves on these little shells so I use much thinner paper tape, I think they sell it down to 1mm in size so ideal for getting stupidly thin lines :D I get it from here (http://www.jammydog.com/micro_masking_tape.htm) You won't get a super crisp line with it, liquid mask is still the best stuff for that. Tamiya tape should see you well though, I've seen painters cover whole crash helmets in that stuff and draw on it and then cut the design out.
jonmiller
13-07-2011, 08:22 PM
depending on time and skill/ application/job in hand etc etc..... liquid mask you can be a bit more brutal with paint thicknis application whereas tape you need to layer more gradually.
The first (and only one) I've ever done:
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o276/thegreatonereturns/TeamAssociatedRC10B447.jpg
Tamiya rattle cans and liquid mask.
jonmiller
13-07-2011, 08:24 PM
more simple designs are stupidly sped p by tape etc though.
so all in all, depends on the job in hand and whether for you or others etc
jonmiller
13-07-2011, 08:25 PM
sorry, keyboard acting up....
or is it the buckfast???
beckybean66
14-07-2011, 11:29 AM
this is my last rattle can paint job, fair does its not a 2 color paint job but i was happy with it.
:D
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/retardedcamel/truck2.jpg
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n147/retardedcamel/truck.jpg
QuackingPlums
14-07-2011, 12:30 PM
I sprayed this shell (http://bajageeksuk.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/p7140158.jpg) using only rattle cans (linky cos it's HUGE, sorry).
The orange swish, lettering and the bonnet logo were printed onto the back of waxed paper (the backing stuff for that clear book covering you get from 'smiths is perfect), masking tape applied to the waxy side, then cut out using just scissors. The black/silver fade was sprayed first, then the masks removed and the detail filled in layer by layer after. I still have most of the can of light blue left over from tinting the corners of the sunglasses... :lol:
I've since gone crazy on an airbrush setup and paints from Jon, so I will probably never go back to my large collection of rattle cans!
EDIT: attached a lower res version
RC944
15-07-2011, 10:42 AM
blimey a lot to take in but i think im getting the picture
so in terms of gear if i get the following i can do a simple 2 colour scheme cost effectively for a couple of shells
- paints by tamiya
- masking tape and paper tape for fine lines
- copydex for larger areas
Some time and patience and well ventilated area and preferably some kind of enclosure
Cardnim
15-07-2011, 11:15 AM
Ventilation?
Pfff, we dont need no stinkin ventil..... *cough cough*
:wtf::wtf::wtf:......:bored::bored::bored:........ :yawn:
r.i.p. Cardnim :lol:
QuackingPlums
15-07-2011, 01:08 PM
Some time and patience and well ventilated area and preferably some kind of enclosure
I used to just do mine out in the garden over the lawn. Yeah it leaves paint stains all over the grass but it grows out dunnit? :woot:
RC944
15-07-2011, 02:03 PM
and green grass is boring anyway!
Homerjhandley
15-07-2011, 02:16 PM
check out http://mardaveforums.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=131 for more shots
http://www.mardaveforums.com/Pics/tigra/Img_3555.jpg
straightforward to do and if you can get the lines sharp with no bleed, even better!
teamorsum96
15-07-2011, 03:19 PM
there you go, the cow will eat the green green grass lol
blimey a lot to take in but i think im getting the picture
so in terms of gear if i get the following i can do a simple 2 colour scheme cost effectively for a couple of shells
- paints by tamiya
- masking tape and paper tape for fine lines
- copydex for larger areas
Some time and patience and well ventilated area and preferably some kind of enclosure
:thumbsup: You should be onto a winner. I would advise that you test the copydex on a part of the shell that won't show just to make sure it doesn't react. I've never had any sort of problem even when left on for ages but its always best to check :)
RC944
15-07-2011, 10:15 PM
mark i hope your designs are not copyrighted if you know what i mean!
mark i hope your designs are not copyrighted if you know what i mean!
I might have to look into that :p
Projectzip
20-07-2011, 04:24 PM
This was painted in 30 minutes.
the wing was done after.
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/252894_10150640076500367_730075366_19197940_385544 5_n.jpg
RC944
20-07-2011, 04:45 PM
30 min!!!
julianb
20-07-2011, 04:53 PM
That long? ;-)
grimidol
20-07-2011, 05:38 PM
Nice work
grimidol
20-07-2011, 05:39 PM
Here are 2 i did i got a £12 airbrush. Over time i order paints of Jon that way it doesnt seem to cost alot.
Just need to get my lines bette and take more time doing then as i normally only take 1-2 hours .....the mini was really hard to do as you cannt get a knife in there so easy.
http://imgur.com/JDz6i
cutting edge
21-07-2011, 05:12 PM
Some times a single colour can stand out and become your signature like mine has ! Its a lot better when its moving all chrome , like a mirror been running this colour for a few years now .........
Better Pic at the top of my website www.car69.me.uk (http://www.car69.me.uk) and my simple guide to spraying a single colour shell , in the projects section i think it is .....
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q134/james-bond-oo7/DSC03208.jpg
Projectzip
26-07-2011, 09:44 AM
I ran a chrome touring car for one of the Rug Racer rounds.
As it was indoors my eyes all went to pot after a couple of races as it passed under the lights it kept flickering.
I went back to a normal coloured shell soon after :cry:
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/6528/p1030330i.jpg
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/5972/img0893x.jpg
RC944
27-07-2011, 06:54 AM
So after lots of deliberation I have decided to go for a single colour inverse stealth look on my modded b3. The plan is to have a white shell and black wheels. The blue hop ups and yellow turnbuckles I hope will liven it up. I've got some monochrome decals so hopefully the whole things works and I get the desired effect. Ill RIT dye my new white wheels black. Can those in the know see I this approach works for the shell:
+ wash shell with warm water
+ once dry liquid mask or cling film outside as no protective film
+ liquid mask or vinyl mask windows (which leaves cleaner line?)
+ apply 3mm low tack masking tape around windows if I want to create border around windows in darker colour but will this leave clean line or liable to bleed. Not sure I can get super straight and consistent lines with liquid mask
+ apply initial coat thinly so to help increase paint adhesion
+ apply 2 more coats
+ remove masking around window
+ paint window border
+ apply final white coat to all
+ remove window vinyl mask
+ once dry score shell trim line and snap or tear
+ ream out holes
+ apply decals
+ admire work
+ assemble car
+ drive the nuts off it and break stuff and crack shell
+ repeat above but with increasing complexity
+etc
gainsy
27-07-2011, 07:40 AM
I would use liquid mask to cut the border around the windows, the finished result will be much better this way
Don't be scared of the liquid mask, you can always cut up a old 2/3 litre coke bottle, wash it, stick some mask on & practice your cutting on that, use a new decent scalpal & you will soon get it right
I used to have no confidence in liquid mask but as soon as i started using liquid mask from RCS i haven't looked back, just follow the guide on Jon's website
http://www.rcsgraphicworx.com/
If you put this stuff on properly you wont get any paint bleed & your new shell will look great :)
If your putting mask on the outside as well, draw your window lines on the outside, then you have a line to follow when cutting
RC944
27-07-2011, 07:55 AM
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/6528/p1030330i.jpg
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/5972/img0893x.jpg
amazing how killer simple designs can look! good stuff
RC944
27-07-2011, 07:56 AM
I would use liquid mask to cut the border around the windows, the finished result will be much better this way
Don't be scared of the liquid mask, you can always cut up a old 2/3 litre coke bottle, wash it, stick some mask on & practice your cutting on that, use a new decent scalpal & you will soon get it right
I used to have no confidence in liquid mask but as soon as i started using liquid mask from RCS i haven't looked back, just follow the guide on Jon's website
http://www.rcsgraphicworx.com/
If you put this stuff on properly you wont get any paint bleed & your new shell will look great :)
If your putting mask on the outside as well, draw your window lines on the outside, then you have a line to follow when cutting
ok then LM it is! i have a product made by humbrol - will that be any good? does it need to be applied in one coat only?
gainsy
27-07-2011, 09:14 AM
Never used that stuff before
RCS mask i use 3 coats, i brush it on, then stimple it with a sponge like on the website, this will give you a even finish, usually i stick it in the airing cupboard between coats to dry & normally i would leave the last coat to dry overnight
eyeayen
27-07-2011, 09:43 AM
I've not used that humbrol stuff for years, it was horrible and lumpy last time I did. I'd use the RCS stuff, top quality product ! Also you need a few coats and I doubt they'll be enough in the humbrol bottle. Paint the whole shell with it, then cut out the area's you want to paint, cut all of them out, then in order of darkest colour first go from dark to light spraying in between, you should be fine then ;)
RC944
27-07-2011, 03:32 PM
you guys are making me spend cash... right ive ordered the rcs LM so now ill get on with it!
Projectzip
27-07-2011, 04:18 PM
Ive just got an FTW Vane Shell for my 22 so ill be having a tinker with the rattlers again!
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/basstarlet/c07eeb4f.jpg
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/basstarlet/?action=view¤t=375eecfd.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/basstarlet/SV400142.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/basstarlet/SV400143.jpg
2 colors and silver line tape (parma i tink)
lochness42
27-07-2011, 09:51 PM
ok then LM it is! i have a product made by humbrol - will that be any good? does it need to be applied in one coat only?
Stay away from humbrol LM. I hated it for that short while I tried to work with it. Same for Vallejo LM.
RCSGraphicWorx LM is on the other hand absolutely awesome.
RC944
28-07-2011, 07:56 AM
yep hear you loud and clear... its sat on a shelf while i wait for my rcs stuff to come through
come on mr miller get packing!
Projectzip
28-07-2011, 11:06 AM
Got my FTW Vane shell halfway through painting.
the vents on the side are sprayed on the outside to give them a Matt finish.
Yellow to follow after more masking to protect the white.
Couldnt decide which way round I was doing it when I first masked it up lol.
Then Chrome window surrounds
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281444_10150725108360367_730075366_19937637_372255 4_n.jpg
RC944
01-08-2011, 09:10 AM
so after much buying of stuff i never knew existed i turned my hand to my shell
ultimately it turned out ok for first effort but keen to see what you folk think... what ill do differently next time
- put 3 rather than 2 coats of LM on the outside
- use thinner marker for marking out the design
- use scissors where possible rather than knife
- use tape for window surrounds not LM
- do finer job of masking so i dont need to use decals to disguise!
i used tamiya rattlers and the RCS LM. i had an xacto to swann morton number 3. the xacto blades appear sharper in my view but i like the way the blade fixes into the number 3 handle
im definitely hooked and next up will be a shell for the b3's stablemate an xx4 WE
thanks everyone on here for helping out with the advice and pls do give me any feedback but note that i will not be buying a compressor (yet!)
eyeayen
01-08-2011, 09:38 AM
For your first attempt there's nothing wrong with that. And going around the track it will look fine !
When you're using thinners based paint ( Aerosol ) you need to put the liquid mask on a bit thicker. For scalpel blades I use No11 as you can see the tips better than the 10A's.
Projectzip
04-08-2011, 04:14 PM
Finally snapped a shot of my 22 Vane shell
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/281441_10150734900700367_730075366_20066156_412123 5_n.jpg
gainsy
04-08-2011, 08:39 PM
so after much buying of stuff i never knew existed i turned my hand to my shell
ultimately it turned out ok for first effort but keen to see what you folk think... what ill do differently next time
- put 3 rather than 2 coats of LM on the outside
- use thinner marker for marking out the design
- use scissors where possible rather than knife
- use tape for window surrounds not LM
- do finer job of masking so i dont need to use decals to disguise!
i used tamiya rattlers and the RCS LM. i had an xacto to swann morton number 3. the xacto blades appear sharper in my view but i like the way the blade fixes into the number 3 handle
im definitely hooked and next up will be a shell for the b3's stablemate an xx4 WE
thanks everyone on here for helping out with the advice and pls do give me any feedback but note that i will not be buying a compressor (yet!)
Nice work mate for your first shell
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
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