DIRT

[racingdwarf]

Right, had a look through the setup sections and there seems very few people running on dirt tracks, we now have a dirt track at our club, and starting to look for setups, our track is very loose and low grip, ran the loose loam setup from the TLR site..it was pants:lol:, and I have seen a couple of posts that have said the same. so there must be other people in the world that run 22's on dirt, have you found some good setups?????care to share;)

I have nothing to post at the min,:blush: (yep, it's that bad)

[rcjunky]

go to www.rctech.net (http://www.rctech.net) and ask in the 22 section under electric on road, the TLR guys will help you our (Matt Chambers, Frank Root etc) among everyone else, most people run theres on dirt on that forum.

[Razer]

Right, had a look through the setup sections and there seems very few people running on dirt tracks, we now have a dirt track at our club, and starting to look for setups, our track is very loose and low grip, ran the loose loam setup from the TLR site..it was pants:lol:, and I have seen a couple of posts that have said the same. so there must be other people in the world that run 22's on dirt, have you found some good setups?????care to share;)

I have nothing to post at the min,:blush: (yep, it's that bad)

Try Otto Ausfelts setup from the Petit site, it is very good on loose tracks. I am running on a slippery indoor clay track now, and testing new things all the time. The 22 is fast on it, it just always feels "floaty" and loose, and I'm trying to make it feel more safe. I'll try to post some of my experimenting here now and then;-)

[antonio_cadiz]

hello!
sorryfor my english

in this set up of otto ausfelt 2011 Swedish cup Trelleborg

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptwentytwo/22_OttoAusfelt_Trelleberg201109/index.html

wha is in front suspension

shock limiter 1 mm + internal spring. 1,5 compressed???????

thanks

[Razer]

hello!
sorryfor my english

in this set up of otto ausfelt 2011 Swedish cup Trelleborg

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/losi/setuptwentytwo/22_OttoAusfelt_Trelleberg201109/index.html

wha is in front suspension

shock limiter 1 mm + internal spring. 1,5 compressed???????

thanks


I have no clue, so I built the shocks stock. I would guess it's a short spring from a ballpoint pen or something, but I'll ask Otto for an explanation! :)

[magnus]

I also felt the car to be a bit floaty as you say. I tried everything untill I changed to Dustins Reedy setup and got rid of it. The biggest differense was the shorter rear link. It made it a lot better and easier to drive. Give it a try and see what you think.

[Razer]

I also felt the car to be a bit floaty as you say. I tried everything untill I changed to Dustins Reedy setup and got rid of it. The biggest differense was the shorter rear link. It made it a lot better and easier to drive. Give it a try and see what you think.

I run the rear link as per the worlds setup, in the 1-D hole, really liked that more than the B. It's still slippy, but that's mainly the track.

[racingdwarf]

Great replys, all seem to say the same as I am finding a bit loose/floaty. I find the back end of the car looses traction exiting the corner very suddenly, no matter how gentle you are and how soft you have the ESC etc set up

[jkclifford]

Add rear toe in and anti squat to plant the back.

[racingdwarf]

Add rear toe in and anti squat to plant the back.

Yep running that at the min:thumbsup: but 1deg anti squat tried more, didn't work for me

[Razer]

Add rear toe in and anti squat to plant the back.

actually, that didn't work for me. Adding toe makes it wander round more, and in turns you have two wheels working hard against eachother, making it feel unstable. I went down to three degree toe as per the worlds setup, that felt a lot smoother. It just seemed to calm the rear end down, so even though it was loose, it didn't feel that much out of control.

I have read that Matt Chambers have started running 3 degrees of antisquat in stead of 2.5, I'll try that tomorrow. It will lower my off power traction though, in theory, so I'll have to see...

The explanation from Otto is that the spring gives you a warning about when you should stop pushing. I'll have to try it out:)

[ottoswe]

The explanation from Otto is that the spring gives you a warning about when you should stop pushing. I'll have to try it out:)
Oh YEAH!! run 1-2mm limiter or put 3mm and inside hole on front wishbone just to try it...

white springs in the rear.. and motor as far forward as possible..

my car was perfect when grips was low.. but for highgrip it was abit twitchy.

still the best 2wd ever

[ottoswe]

Add rear toe in and anti squat to plant the back.

no way.. i would say the opposite.. 3degree and as litte antisquat as possible.

[kayce]

no way.. i would say the opposite.. 3degree and as litte antisquat as possible.

That's pretty much dead-azz opposite to what the TLR team drivers over in the States have said.

[Razer]

Oh YEAH!! run 1-2mm limiter or put 3mm and inside hole on front wishbone just to try it...

white springs in the rear.. and motor as far forward as possible..

my car was perfect when grips was low.. but for highgrip it was abit twitchy.

still the best 2wd ever

So, yesterday I built my shocks with cut bladders, 55 pistons, 27.5 wt up front, 25 rear, and an internal spring in the front shocks. I used the front springs off a Micro Highroller that I cut in half. The wire is 0.25mm, and they were 1.5mm tall when compressed, about 3.5mm free.

Since this is quite far off the other shocks I've ran with bladders, 56 piston and 20 wt rear, I can't really tell if the springs made the difference, but the car was dialled:)

[pugboy]

Would the springs from the xx4 do the trick? Think I have some of them in my box somewhere.. And what effect does cutting the bladders have?

Cheers

[Razer]

Would the springs from the xx4 do the trick? Think I have some of them in my box somewhere.. And what effect does cutting the bladders have?

Cheers

Never seen them, but probably:P The car felt really good, but if it was because of the springs, I don't know. I'm gonna build an identical set of shocks without them and test.

Also the los-b1600 spring kit gives you more options:)

Cutting the bladders gives you less to no rebound effect, and the car feels more "dead" and calm on landings.

[pugboy]

Do you remove the bladders or just slice a hole in them? I am not entirely sure about doing this as I will have to put my hand in my pocket if I need to replace them!:cry:

:thumbsup:

[Mugenextreme]

Pugboy check this out,

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2011/07/tlr-22-shock-tips.html

[kayce]

Do you remove the bladders or just slice a hole in them? I am not entirely sure about doing this as I will have to put my hand in my pocket if I need to replace them!:cry:

:thumbsup:

Just cut them out, using scissors, leaving yourself with just o-rings that are at the top of the bladders. If you're worried, the bladders are inexpensive. If it's that much of a reach putting your "hand in your pocket" perhaps you should find a new hobby. ;) :lol:

[jcb]

Would the springs from the xx4 do the trick? Think I have some of them in my box somewhere.. And what effect does cutting the bladders have?

Cheers


I would have thought the XX4 springs will be a touch small diameter and bind on the shafts rather than compress freely!

Found the easiest way to cut the bladders was to fold them in half and cut along the edge of the ring that sits on the shock body. Found they kept the car more settled on a bumpy rutted track, and were good for bad landings from jumps.



On the subject of grip I always found less anti squat gave the feeling of a more consistent level of grip, as there is less weight transfer. But equally doesn't square the car up so well when applying the power.

[ottoswe]

That's pretty much dead-azz opposite to what the TLR team drivers over in the States have said.


are you gonna be racing it in the states or in europe?


try it for your self and see what happends

[Razer]

are you gonna be racing it in the states or in europe?


try it for your self and see what happends

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Razer]

Plain old theory tells me more antisquat gives more onpower grip, but less offpower grip, and less antisquat the opposite. That's about what every setup guide will tell you...

Either way, it's all about finding the balance. More antisquat in slippery conditions don't help shit when you already spun midturn:thumbsup:

[kayce]

Plain old theory tells me more antisquat gives more onpower grip, but less offpower grip, and less antisquat the opposite. That's about what every setup guide will tell you...


That's all I'm saying, I was thinking the other fellow might have been an Aussie and trying to say things worked opposite south of the equator (kinda like the toilet bowl swirls different). :woot:

[Razer]

So, this sunday was dedicated to only testing some antisquat. I've been running 3 degrees, so I took it down to 1 degree. First turn felt great, I could really push it going into the turn, but on my way out where I needed to punch it for a jump - SPIN!

I think that on a track where you come fast coasting through sections and carry a lot of speed onto every jump, little antisquat is the way to go.

On my local track were all the jumps require me to be early on the throttle, more antisquat is better. I have to be a bit more cautious into the turns, but the gain is huge.

So there you have it. It's not just about low grip/high grip, but also low speed/high speed tracks...

[grelland]

So Martin, are you running mid- or rear engine?

[Razer]

So Martin, are you running mid- or rear engine?

Rear. Even on astro;-) I'll post my setup here later. You running the 22?

[grelland]

nope, but a vega mid-motor b4, and wanted to see if I could "steal" some good ideas from you :)

[Razer]

nope, but a vega mid-motor b4, and wanted to see if I could "steal" some good ideas from you :)

The vega could probably be made working okey, but with the lack of grip you'd be far better off with a standard B4, especially since you don't carry speed onto any of the jumps... Even if you manage all the jumps, I doubt that you can punch it to gain distance and speed when needed.

What I would try though, is getting the motor as far back as possible, as much in axis with the rear wheels as you can, and also a bunch of antisquat. Since the midmotors usually are more stable on corner entry, you can sacrifice some of that grip in making the car go forwards.

Even if you get that done, I think it will be a big compromise. But I'd love to see it in action though!!! :-)

[grelland]

Thanks for the input, I will see whether I end up mid- or rear-engined, then... Judging by my driving skills, I think rear-engine might be the way to go, however; thats a bit boring ;)

[Razer]

Thanks for the input, I will see whether I end up mid- or rear-engined, then... Judging by my driving skills, I think rear-engine might be the way to go, however; thats a bit boring ;)

Hey, our fullsize cars are rear-engined, remember?

[pugboy]

Hey, our fullsize cars are rear-engined, remember?

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=skoda+estelle+rapid+coupe+136&hl=en&sa=X&gbv=2&biw=1063&bih=843&tbm=isch&tbnid=sCbNdMMgyGl3GM:&imgrefurl=http://www.classiceuropeancarclub.com/eastern-a3.htm&docid=sBFlfhrvCJbGFM&imgurl=http://www.classiceuropeancarclub.com/Skoda_Rapid_136.jpg&w=800&h=600&ei=VUipTuKfJous-gbSme3MDw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=104&vpy=314&dur=3760&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=84&ty=81&sig=113465419754300303084&page=1&tbnh=157&tbnw=190&start=0&ndsp=17&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:0

? :thumbsup:

[kayce]

nope, but a vega mid-motor b4, and wanted to see if I could "steal" some good ideas from you :)

:bored: I thought this was a LOSI thread? :rolleyes:

[Razer]

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=skoda+estelle+rapid+coupe+136&hl=en&sa=X&gbv=2&biw=1063&bih=843&tbm=isch&tbnid=sCbNdMMgyGl3GM:&imgrefurl=http://www.classiceuropeancarclub.com/eastern-a3.htm&docid=sBFlfhrvCJbGFM&imgurl=http://www.classiceuropeancarclub.com/Skoda_Rapid_136.jpg&w=800&h=600&ei=VUipTuKfJous-gbSme3MDw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=104&vpy=314&dur=3760&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=84&ty=81&sig=113465419754300303084&page=1&tbnh=157&tbnw=190&start=0&ndsp=17&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:0

? :thumbsup:

Well, not quite:lol:

This one's mine:

[Razer]

:bored: I thought this was a LOSI thread? :rolleyes:

Yup, so let's quit the offtopicing boys!

[pugboy]

Well, not quite:lol:

This one's mine:

She's a beauty! :thumbsup:

anyway, have you posted your latest Losi 22 set up yet?:D

[Razer]

She's a beauty! :thumbsup:

anyway, have you posted your latest Losi 22 set up yet?:D

Thanks! Her name is Savannah:P

Here's my latest setup. It's dialled. There's always room for improvement, but I'm not sure what to improve on this one, on my track.

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6233/6286320961_80ca4cdd38_b.jpg

[Razer]

And as I posted that, I know what I want to change.

I want a 75 spur or smaller, so I can have the motor more forwards. Also, going from an 8,5 to a 9,5 made a huge impact on the driveability, and still had more than enough power:)

[Razer]

And as I posted that, I know what I want to change.

I want a 75 spur or smaller, so I can have the motor more forwards. Also, going from an 8,5 to a 9,5 made a huge impact on the driveability, and still had more than enough power:)

I also forgot, I'm running the +0,75mm hexes...

[racingdwarf]

I am going to give the HRC rear blocks a go, they do seem to make the car rotate less

[Gnarly Old Dog]

I am going to give the HRC rear blocks a go, they do seem to make the car rotate less

Way to go Dave:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I've been running HRC all year - didn't like the LRC block when we tested it because it would dump and rotate when loaded in a fast sweeper.

The HRC block makes the car feel less locked in on corner entry but it seems to grip at that level more consistently throughout the turn so you don't get a nasty surprise later on.
The LRC feels more locked in to begin with but for me, I was consistently faster with the HRC block.

[Razer]

I'd be a bit of a sceptic to using it on gravel, but won't know if it works unless you try.

It keeps the rear from rolling, and adds more lateral force to the tires, which isn't really what you want on slippery surfaces. LRC gives you more roll, and more vertical force down on the tire, which could give you more grip. But then again, coming from touring car racing, I've seen this go both ways, so please do try!

And as Gnarly says, it keeps more consistently! On midmotor I've been running HRC mostly, but with the rear motor, LRC seems to be they way to go. But it depends a lot on grip levels and bumps. On a bumpy track, HRC is a no go for me. But that is my experience from Astroturf, on clay I've only used LRC.

But then again, a good thing for rear grip? 15-20 grams of weight placed on top of the gearbox, just behind the shocktower. I used a mid weight kit, and cut it to fit there. Also that then becomes the perfect place to tape your power cap:)