View Full Version : Difference between B4 Team and Factory Team
c0sie
24-02-2008, 01:06 PM
Whats the difference between the Team and Factory Team B4 kits?
Is it worth the Ģ50 difference between both kits?
What bits of the FT do you NEED to have...I just wonder if buying a Team would be a better option??
Thanks as always :)
Southwell
24-02-2008, 01:17 PM
Front ally brace is the main thing. I would go FT for the shocks as well.
You get full graphite excluding chassis, lightweight outdrives, better shock shafts and some other bits i can't think of. For the bit extra it's definately worth it.
c0sie
24-02-2008, 01:19 PM
:) Thanks for that champ, just what I wanted to know :)
markwilliamson2001
24-02-2008, 01:31 PM
Yeah I would do as Southwell says. You get the ally brace, servo saver spring, threaded shocks, servo mounts and threaded front axles, which I personally think are a major improvement over the kit items.
M.
mattym0310
24-02-2008, 06:38 PM
i thinkk the threaded axles are a lot weaker so i use standard ones. they also have a ballraced steering assembly :thumbsup:
just to add a FT kit is definately worth the price difference
josh_smaxx
24-02-2008, 06:41 PM
I much prefer the threaded axles but they are weak, i snapped one today after landing slightly sideways, superglued it back in though and its all good :thumbsup:
c0sie
24-02-2008, 07:10 PM
Thanks for all your help fellas!
Does anyone have a part number for the non threaded axles at all?
Thanks
martboy21
24-02-2008, 07:41 PM
i disagree with treaded axels,ive not once had problem,also i feel they hold the wheel on better than the plastic nuts with the rs...
i guess its matter of opinion, if they snap then i will post here again ranting!!! ;) ;)
josh_smaxx
24-02-2008, 07:44 PM
They do hold the wheel on alot better but i have snapped i think 4 now, the normal ones are stronger but i done like the plastic nuts.
Southwell
24-02-2008, 07:44 PM
Ive snapped one before so i just keep a couple spare. I'd get some spare screws though, losi ones are longer than the ae ones and i haven't had a problem with them, not sure on the part # though.
martboy21
24-02-2008, 07:44 PM
part no AS9613 for standard ones
c0sie
25-02-2008, 09:21 AM
Thanks for all the help chaps :)
Gonna get the FT kit, 30' castor blocks, blue front springs, 6.5L, and some lead for the back end lol :)
c0sie
25-02-2008, 09:48 AM
Lads,
Whats the difference between the trailing and inline axles??
Thanks :)
Chris Doughty
25-02-2008, 09:51 AM
use trailing all the time, its not something I have played with, neither have I seen it being used to win anything.
don't concern yourself with it.
I think it just makes the car super twitchy.
c0sie
25-02-2008, 09:54 AM
Cheers matey :)
Richard Lowe
25-02-2008, 09:58 AM
use trailing all the time, its not something I have played with, neither have I seen it being used to win anything.
2005 Supercup? (http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/supercup2005/) :p
Chris Doughty
25-02-2008, 10:51 AM
use trailing all the time, its not something I have played with, neither have I seen it being used to win anything.
don't concern yourself with it.
I think it just makes the car super twitchy.
I am not denying it can win, but re-read my post quoted for your convinience
Richard Lowe
25-02-2008, 11:06 AM
Hehe fair enough Chris :)
I use the inlines on my B4 pretty much all the time, I find they make the front end much more positive and consistent. It does react quicker but it only feels to me like removing a washer from the front inner camberlink ballstud.
Chris Doughty
25-02-2008, 11:07 AM
I have not had enough time to test them, so I just take the easy option and use whatever Neil uses :D
c0sie
25-02-2008, 11:17 AM
What exactly is the difference though? As far as the actual axle is concerned? They both just look like straight bits of metal to me???
Chris Doughty
25-02-2008, 11:22 AM
where the steering 'pivots' the in-line axle is the same distance front/back as this pin.
the trailing axle is further back than this pivot.
to use the in-line axles you also have to have the in-line axle steering arms as well.
Southwell
25-02-2008, 11:23 AM
From rc10b4
Itīs for the use with the optional inline axles. As these axles are further to the front, in line with the kingpin, hence the name, the thick black spacer is then to be put in front of the caster block to retain the same wheelbase. Itīs similar to what is explained in picture 5 on page 3 in the manual, as the ball ends have also to be moved in case of use of inline axles.
So always make sure the spacers are behind the caster blocks with the standard trailing axles, otherwise the whole steering geometry would be "bent".
The inline axles change the steering character, steering will be much more direct. The kitīs trailing axles are used almost all the time.
c0sie
25-02-2008, 11:27 AM
Thanks again lads :)
flipside
25-05-2008, 05:44 PM
Front ally brace is the main thing. I would go FT for the shocks as well.
You get full graphite excluding chassis, lightweight outdrives, better shock shafts and some other bits i can't think of. For the bit extra it's definately worth it.
isn't the factory team with graphite chassis then? i'm looking for a B4 too, but want the plastic chassis.
Switching froml losi to asso, what parts do you recommend when buying a B4? Spares, options, springs, etc...
thanks for any info!
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