I'm not here to bash the Losi system, but you cannot compare it to the Tekin. The losi is NOT a competition system and is certainly not as reliable as the Tekin. Funny thing, the Losi CAN reverse as my mate found out one day, putting his car down for the start of a run and his car went backwards... It went forwards the round before... There are also a lot of issues with the lead free solder, issues that have been solved by Tekin and are one of the reasons the RS is a quality product.

hey you should have asked me I was there. I've been running 189 in fully sensored and 5° of boost, redline 5.5 on box timing and it was ballistic, 18.4s lap in 4WD final...

I believe randy meant to run in dual mode set at 80 and hae the motor's physical timing at 20°.

Check: DCM is right.

I run my 5.5 in a Bj4we using 80 on the TA, dual mode. I set the motor timing at 20 on the endbell as I feel it works better there. It has NO timing effect at all once the esc is in dual mode which is in the first few inches of travel.

I have now a Tekin RS Pro but also bought a R1.
Will the R1 be able to handle a Castle Creations 5700kV-motor (which also is sensorless) that I still have lying around?

I should think not, as the R1 has a motor limit of 5T brushless
and the Tekin 5T sensorless motors are rated only at 3700 kV ... but then I have some doubts as you Tekin-guys already told earlier that motors can not always be compared by their kV-rate.

it depends on it's turn rating (which CC don't provide), you could try, and just keep checking the temps. What were you thinking of running it in dude?

in a Pred X11

I think you could possibly be pushing it's limits. No harm in trying a couple of laps at a time, and seeing what the temps are like?

well, I guess I could, ... but I am considering workable solutions ... not something where I have to be causious all the time.
SO I learn from this that this combination "could possibly work" ... but there is a big chance the Tekin R1 will not be able to handle the basic, most used CC motor.

well, it all depends on the turn rating of the motor, as Kv is a mix of how many turns and rotor diameter. The Tekins have lower KV rating as the rotor diameter is significantly bigger on the Redline Sensorless to the Redline.

well, I guess it's maybe wurth a try. If I ever find the time to test it out, I'll post my findings here.

thanks, thats a great help indeed. Just make sure you keep an eye on the temp ok, and if you can, fit a small fan in there to blow air over the solder posts.

Otherwise, it will make a great 2wd ESC.

yup, I'm now thinking about using it as ESC in my Tamiya M03-Swift.
I actually made a mistake and ordered the R1 where I needed a backup-ESC for my RS Pro and wanted to order the RS.
I must have done something wrong (wrong click + didn't notice my error) because I got the R1.

Well worst that can happen is that the speedo will thermal.

true

so won't harm to try. Good tip

We shoud be able to handle that load as long as you gear it correctly. I would make sure that it can get some air flow. Run two caps will also help esc temps.

I've run our 448 motor which is a 4T on the R1 in a wheeler. If anything it should thermal on you.

I generally say as soon as you go 4wd and low turn mods like say a 6.5 it's time for a Pro.

just bought a Hotwire but haven't used it yet.
Is there a location, page on the teamTekin-site where one can download typical setups? Or notes on how to set up under different track-circumstances?

not as yet, but if you need some pointers, just ask.

ok, great thx :)
Is it ok to ask here or do I better relocate to the Tekin-forum?

well, there are a few Euopean based drivers on here, or you can ask directly at Tekin too.

well, I will be participating next weekend on the Belgian E.I.R. (Euro Indoor Race), Indoor 1/8 and 1/10 electro off-road.
It will be a track made with all new astroturf (so i guess tons of grip) and huge jumps, whoops, table ...
My car is a Pred and is equipped with an RS Pro and LRP 6.5 BL-motor.
But I'm rather inexperienced so I would like to start with a non-critical car, smooth on the throttle, ... and maybe later put a bit more juice into it if I can handle it better.
I plan to drive on safe at first, as "to win you have to finish first" ... but I will focus more on the finishing part :D

Should i play with lower settings on the Current Limit, Timing Advance, Throttle Profile?

Also, I understand Drag Brake and Push Control are opposite settings. The first applying brake when the throttle is in neutral while the second applies extra throttle. Why and when would you use those ... and by curiosity ... is itpossible to use both at the same time and why would you?

thx in adavance :)

right, a good starting point for general racing on the RS Pro with a 6.5

NW - 10
TP - 3
Lm - 90
Timing - 80
DB - 10
PC - 0

You would use a little drag brake on a sintered mod motor, a lot more on a bonded rotor mod motor. You would use push control on the stock ans super stock motors, to keep the speed up during the corner.

Ask Kev Lee at what he gears his 6.5 in his Pred.

same question but for a 7.5 in an X6 please ;-)

Thanks !

only thing I would change, would be the limitir and timing, I might drop them both down 5% and go from there. If traction is plenty, go up a little.

I run 22/72 on a 6.5 in the Pred. My speedo setting are very similar to DCMs just i use TP4 and have LM Off.

Very impressed with the reliability of the Tekin ESC on the EBOR24 car.

Over the 24hr period it was accidentally shorted out across the motor wires on two occasions (smoke & sparks), it just carried on going without problems.

The electrics, like the car, did not miss a beat for the full duration.

What car and Motor were you running, Stu?

Ask 'em here , ask 'em there, ask 'em anywhere!

Seriously, posting them here is just fine. Along with DCM I'm confident we can work out any of your problems or questions.

So just ask!:D

was a pred x11-08 with a tekin rs pro and a tekin redline 10.5. geared on 23/72, with the long run times we were aiming at we had a tp of 1 and a timing of 40. ran the full 24 hours without an issue other than when we shorted it across the prop twice and even then it didnt miss a beat;)

as for setups i will help you with yours at belgium m8 and we will tune it through the meeting to what you want. i have a hot wire and all the software you will need :thumbsup:

ok, we'll get into the hotwire-setting-upping with a Duvel in our hand then.

Hotwire and Apple Mac
 

I have the RS Pro, just running it without the hotwire.

Is the hotwire software PC only. I have a Mac so most software is not written for Mac. I want to use this hotwire as I will be stepping up my motor soon.

Would look at the Tekin website, but it wont load up right now.

Cheers

Get a copy of Parallels mate, for Mac, well worth it.

You can then use any PC-only software.

HTH
Mark

it is written for Windows based systems, as it uses the .Net framework, I believe.

I'm no expert but I know that the Linux-community is making (or has made) a .net-alike envirement.
And as the latest Mac-OS has been based on UNIX, maybe there could be made a Mac-version of the Tekin-soft .. or made able to run the Tekin-soft on a Mac-os

Yeah, someone mentioned parallels for another issue with using non mac software that came with my camcorder. It looks like the only option until apple bring out the iEsc for RC Cars.

Do I need to get a Windows OS as well as the Parallels?

Cheers

TIMING IN DUAL MODE
 

I hope someone that knows can help me with this.
I want to run a 5.5 in dual mode with a timing advance of 0deg.
On the RS pro I have read that in sensored mode the timing is endell timing + 'secret' 15deg so to keep timing the same when the RS Pro switches to sensorless mode does timing on the hotwire need to be set at 50?
So motor runs 0deg+15deg in sensored then 15deg(50 on hotwire) in sensorless to keep it the same?
Hope this make sense and someone knows! TA

what are you trying to acheive Sam?

You don't wanna run anything less than 70% anyway mate in dual mode. Mine's set to 100, even though I run in sensored only.

I think i know what you are asking but i'm not sure why you want to do that? Its not a bad thing to have different timing at a different stage in the motors rev range. If you want grunt off the line low timing will help that, but if you want it to rev higher at the end of the straight the high timing on the sensorless mode will help.

I think Randy may be able to confirm your figures above but i think they are right.

As Fabs said you want you dual mode timing up higher than 50%, i run 80% (standard timing on motor) and never change it now.

What i want to do is just keep the timing the same but run in dual mode. I am just trying to understand the relationship between the timing setting of the two modes.
Im running a LRP 5.5 X12 with 0deg recommended timing and im happy with the speed and motor temps but want to run dual instead of sensored only. Thanks for the quick response guys!