Team Tekin Q&A
 

Hey Guys,

Randy Pike from Tekin. I'm here to help answer any technical questions you may have about our products.

As you know we have some of the Predator guys using the Tekin RS Pro and Redline motors in their cars.

If you have any questions, please ask away!

well, let's start then :)

I do have a Tekin R1 Pro, but it is actually mounted in my onroad Tamiya 416.
In my Predator I have a MambaMax and CC 5700KV motor actually, but I was already considering a switch.

Which motor would do great in the Pred ... for driving on large dust tracks, or on grass?
Would a 6.5 BL-motor be sufficient or suted?

Great,

On the large dusty track the 6.5 would be my first choice. It's got loads of power and is easy to drive smooth on the bottom end. It can be adjusted to gave a huge top end as well when coupled with the RS. For the Pred and any other 4wd offroad car running mods I recomend the Pro versions either R1 or RS Pro.

If you have the R1 Pro and want to use a sensroless motor my choice would be the 362 or the 448. The 448 being my first choice.

I should be getting a Pred myself to run here soon so I'll have a lot more input for you.

for grass tracks, the 362 is definately the one to go for, the 448 is a little softer, so may not be aggressive enough on the grass.

Hey Randy, welcome to the world of oople!!

Hi Randy,

I haven't done much background research, so apologies if this is a 'dumb' question - but can I hook up the R1 (Pro) speedo to my Mamba Max 5700kv motor (sensorless)? Can I hook the speedo up to my laptop for altering settings etc.?

Great looking products BTW.

Cheers

Al

Hey Randy, great thread, I will make this a sticky and thanks for your support.

and if I had the choice ... should I choose a sensored or a sensorless Tekin BL-motor?
(As the R1 Pro can run both and budget being the only argument)

I would go for the 5.5 as you can always turn the power down a little, whereas the 6.5 can, on a big track in 4wd, feel a little lacking. If you turn the limiter down on the ESC, it softens up the power delivery on the 5.5 for dirt, plus you can go to a softer throttle profile too.

Alfonzo, yes, you can hook up any brushless motor to the R1Pro and the RS, the major difference is, the RS can use the Sensor harness. Yes, if you have the hotwire, you can connect the R1 to your laptop, update the firmware, have much finer adjustments to the different adjustments too.

I'm still a little confused. So can the Pro run sensored motors, or just the RS? Is the Pro better spec? (in terms of resistance, etc). I want the option to run both sensored and sensorless if possible.

the RS and R1 can run both sensored and sensorless motors.

The RS has the sensor wire port

The Pro versions of both have lower resistance and can take a much hotter motor, the non-Pro version are good to about a 5.5

The R1 Pro will run sensored and sensorless motors, you just don't hook up the sensor wires (on a sensored motor) as there's no where to plug them in because you don't need it.

I run my R1 Pro with a Novak 5.5R with no problems at all once you're running the latest firmware which can be uploaded by anyone with a Hotwire, may already be installed if it was a recent purchase....

Mart

the previous posts are kinda confusing to me:
doesn't the R1??
I have a R1 and I do hook up a sensored BL motor with the sensor cable.

Also, may I repeat my question?
Is there a reason to choose Sensored over sensorless in terms of performance with the Tekin-esc and -motors?

I'm still a tad confused because I'm being a plank. And how much are these Hotwire things? Do they come with the speedo?

No, the RS has the sensor port, the R1 doesn't.

Sensored gives a little better feel at the lower end with mod motors, and with 'spec' motors, makes them faster.

Sensorless is very good with mod motors.

the RS can run as a sensorless or sensored speedo.

the R1 can only run as sensorless

i havent personally run the r1 but from my understanding a sensored motor wil be smother from a standing start whilst a sensorless will be smoother and more efficient once up and running, the rs pro uses the best of both by starting as a sensored and switching over to a sensorless once up and running and also will switch totally to sensorless if it finds a problem with the sensor lead or sensors at all so that you will finish your run rather than having the car stop for no reason, im currently using the rs pro and am finding it one of the most drivable speedo's i have used, the hot wire also really helps as you can download software changes easily and have finer adjusment on the speedo as well
:thumbsup:

the hot wires are about 35 quid (ish) or were when i got mine and unfortunatly dont come with the speedo, good thing is that they work with all tekin speedos as they simply connect to the reciever wire so they are a buy once and use with every tekin you buy from now on ;), also if you have a laptop it makes it a lot easier to adjust your speedo track side using the sliders rather than counting lights like on other makes :thumbsup:

The Hot wire is dead easy to use, and really helps you fine tune the Speedo to the track and to get the best out of the motors your chose to run

well, I do run a sensored BL motor with myTekin ESC so I must be mistaken. It must be a RS then, and not a R1.

Lowie, DCM and the others are right. If there's a sensored port on the esc it's the RS.

If you have the RS you can run both sensored and sensorless motors. The fact that was also stated corretly was that with the RS you have the ability to choose between Sensored only drive OR Dual mode which is a sensored start and sensorless operation afterwards.

My personal current ride is a BJ4WE with either the Tekin Redline 6.5 or the 5.5 depending on traction. When setup properly I'd put our 6.5 up agains most others 5.5s. The Hotwire gives us an advantage over the others with easy tuning, updating your software, and soon user programable/storable throttle profiles.

When we make an improvement, you only need to download the FREE software, not a new esc.

Jimmy, thanks for making it a sticky it's much appreciated. Hit me up when you get time: Rpike@teamtekin.com


Sorry for the delayed response guys I had the wrong email listed.

yup .. a real benefit of the Hotwire (currently unrivalled by any other competitor) is the ability to download new RS software when Tekin releases it (1st by downloading on to your notebook) onto your RS. this means new functions, customisations, etc .. it's like a firmware update, but doing it yourself.

but the ONE big thing i like about my RS is that it allows you to start and complete a race even with a faulty or missing sensor lead! it switches to the hybrid mode. woooo ...

friend of mine had a 5.5 and 6.5 BL motor that couldn't run on either his GTB or Sphere. they were as good as paperweights, really.
tried them in the RS and they were as good as new.

also, no fan or heatsinks, small footprint, small capacitor, easy trackside adjustment....

Yes, I'm loving the lack of fans, heatsinks and all. So I know I could go do this research myself but seeing as this thread is alive and well - Which is the 'better' model? the Pro or the RS?

Randy,

R1 Pro (uncensored) with Orion 7.5BL on LiPo's

problem is from standing start the motor won't spin up/lazy unless I'm real easy on the throttle :confused: When she's up and running all is OK.

Motor has standard timing and is geared 24/81.

Any suggestions?

reduce your neutral width to between 12 and 15 on the hotwire, ramp your brakes to 100% and reduce on the transmitter, dial in about 5-10 of drag brake, this helps the ESC know where the rotor is at all times.

Have you also checked to see if there is a newer firmware with your hotwire?

Got 180 installed.
HW says no new updates.

I'll try the above

have you tried downloading the software off the website, let me just check what mine shows.

uninstalled and reinstalled using website zip file

erm ... and what about CastleCreations Castle Link?
AFAIK, this does exactly the same:
setting up the ESC through pc or laptop, uploading new functions when available.

anyway, back on Tekin-topic

RS Pro

got this in 4wd with 5.5bl on 17/87 and NiMH

what settings would you suggest for indoors?

Sensored only
max 30' timing, that includes any advance on the motor and hotwire, 15' is optimal
Limiter 90
TP3
Neatral width, 16
Brake full

OK, the "soft start" you're reffering to is related to the 180 software. 183 has a much harder launch. The site doesn't have it so shoot me an email and I'll hook you up with it.

For the 5.5 I'd start out something like this:

NW 10
BS 85
TP 3
Timing at 80
Dual Mode
Motor timing around 20(even though it's only there for the start)

The other settings are personal pref.

've been doing some homework :) : reading on the Tekin-site.

a higher kV means more rpms, so a Tekin sensored 3.5 is much more powerfull then the sensorless 3?
Do I understand this correctly?

also another question:
On this info-page (http://www.teamtekin.com/blmotors.html#redlines) I could see data about the kV-performance of the Sensorless motors ... but not these same kV-data about the sensored motors.
Why is that?
Shouldn't it be much easier to compare the perfomance when these data from all motors are available?

it isn't as simple as what turn it is, there is the material of the magnets, the diamter of the rotor and the airgap, these all go along at define the RPM of the motor, but might not actualy show the 'power' of the motor, it is never as simple as that.

The sensorless motors can be geared pretty high, whereas the sensored motors need a much smaller pinion to achieve the same 'performance'. If that makes sense.

ok, but then, if a sensored BL motor can be run sensored AND sensorless, when driving with the RS Pro-ESC, having the advantages of both in the Dual mode ... why should one choose a sensorless motor where you can not have these advantages?

the sensored and sensorless motors from Tekin are, two different motors, and have totally different characteristics, so that makes them uncomparable, if that makes sense.

On the RS, if you are running a sensored motor, with the harness plugged in, you can run in dual mode, senored and sensorless. If you are running a sensorless motor, you can only run in sensorless mode.

Wow a sensible post about practical application of brushless motors. Nicely written response :thumbsup:

As for sensorless off-road I agree with what's said above. The 448 is perfect for indoors.

... ok then but you are not making it any easier for me if I want to choose between a sensored and a sensorless combo

must be me, but this seems to have a very high DUH-factor to it :)


Maybe it must be my lack of english-understanding but I still haven't understood when I should choose a sensored and when a sensorless solution.
I'll study some more on the net tomorrow.

it really isn't a simple answer, as what you need is down to how you like your power.

If you like it soft at the bottom end, senorless, if you like it full of punch, get sensored.

As for ESC, if you are not sure, get the RS Pro, as then you can use ALL the motors.

i stand corrected :)