Bmax4 or DEX410R
 

post your thoughts and comments...

driven both mate and the b max is a stable car but is nt as a gressive as the durango, the durango is a great car but would recomend you look at the kyosho fs 2 buddy as i ve said i ve drivenn both but found the kyosho is a perfect match between ther two mate

The FS2 is £100 over my limit atm.

I'm loving the 410R. Though, I've not driven a BMAX...

The 'rango doesn't have to be aggressive, thicker diff oils helps calm it down a lot.

Oh look, I have a 410R in stock, please buy it :thumbsup:

http://rclazy.com/shop/car-kits/team...-kit-td102003/

All I will say is that before buying a B-MAX, check that you can get spares for it...

Same would go for any car that you intend to race.

In my clubs bmax are used by a few, but there are a couple of durangos

Belsten is selling a new bmax cheap on here as he runs Tamiyas!!

Ok here as it stand

Bmax pros -

Strong, good club following in my area, lush big bores

Cons -
Lots of plastic, lack of spares

Dex410r pros -

Build quality looks superb, good spares,

Cons -

Expensive upgrades to the 410, are there better cars out there?

Why is lots of plastic a con on the BMax?

Weaker, id rather have a metal or carbon chassis than plastic

I've never seen a B-Max break have you? Lazers brake all the time at Goshen!

thats because youve never seen a bmax go round goshen fast enough:woot: and i bet youve not seen my fs break!!! lol

I don't believe the bmax chassis is any weaker than the others, what makes you say that?

just because all the bmax drivers at bury seam to snap them in 2 mate!!

Matt - I've not broken a Bmax, and Johnny hasn't broken a Bmax either. And I'm using the same X12 5.5t you are, but without the driving skills.
The only person who has broken a Bmax is Jony Nitro, he broke it doing long jump records and we won't discuss how often he broke his Lazer!

Phil - JE stock Bmax spares, plus I bring a complete spare car and most of a third in spares to every meeting. JE also now do Durango - so spares for both is pretty similar.

Plastic in a way makes for a stronger car, it flexes a little on hard impacts rather than snapping. Think about those nice alloy towers you got - didn't last long did they?
The problem with the plastic on the Bmax (or Chippy tray as its known) is that it looks cheap. The Lazer has just as much, but it has a duller appearance that looks more 'carbon' like making the car seem more bling than the Bmax.

The dull effect on the lazers is because they are carbon chassis etc:p

I am new to all this and was steered in the direction of the B-max so cant speak for the other cars but love my B-max. I am not the best driver and all I have broken is a couple of wishbones. :thumbsup:

I had a B-Max and have to say it was the best handling 4WD i've ever owned (i've been racing for over 20 years on and off).

I really would let the plastic put you off, they are more than strong enough.

AH! That explains why they snap so easily. As a B4 owner you should know that the carbon (graphite) FT parts are much more fragile than the regular plastic parts. To the extent that B4.1 FT's don't have any carbon in the anymore. Nobody bothered with the stuff!

i agree when im replacing parts on the b4 im not putting carbon back on its craaaaap! the standard has withheld in lager impacts where the carbon would snap

I feel I have to back up Matt here.

My ZX5-FS is built from a conversion kit on a ZX5-SP, back at the end of 2008.

Breakages on it in all that time are a couple of front towers (all big accidents, normally involving another car at speed) and 1 rear wishbone. The ZX5-FS is as tuff as they come!

As for the poll I can't comment as I'm so happy with the Kyosho cars I've not felt the need to try anything else

Difference with carbon/plastic composite parts is they are stiffer...at the cost of being slightly more brittle.

If a solid, stiff car is what your after then carbon parts are better. But I think that a lot of team drivers have decided that the little bit of extra flex the plain plastic parts give is an advantage in certain circumstances.

The plain plastic parts do bend a little more and deform slightly before they break, whereas the carbon composite parts will take a marginally bigger hit without deforming at all, but break straight away rather than bending a little first...which in a small number of cases might be the difference between finishing a race or not...particularly for the less gifted driver who crashes a little more often!!!

The wonders of material science! :thumbsup:

close poll!

still very unsure hear good an bad things about every buggy im looking at.

bmaxx is nice but id want big bores. thats another £120

lazer is £100 over budget

durango hasnt really been raved about since i showed my interest

b44 id rather move away from TA spent so much money with them :(

(bmaxx is nice but id want big bores. thats another £120)
No they are not £60 from Bonzia Hobby

front and rear? the site i saw before it was £60 at each end :woot:

want a link

http://www.m-k-racing.com/product_in...d07e2cae987b23


and fronts

http://www.m-k-racing.com/product_in...oducts_id=7926

You buy all your B max stuff from this site because its half the price in no fees
but site is down,not in the uk
http://banzaihobby.com/index.php?mai...or_maintenance

kk ill have a look, is that the same for the kits? :lol:

when I had my b max thats where i bought all my spares

ok thanks!

is this right or am i looking at the wrong car?

http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/BMAX4.html

yes wrong car I had the Factory B-Max

I owned the Bmax before owning a B44 then onto a full spec Durango.

I felt the Bmax was a forgiving car and smooth , the Durango is certainly point and aggressive and suits a harder driving style , i prefer the Durango as the quality and finish is on another level.

However, you are looking at the right car to buy. The FT is very nice with all the fancy alloy, but in truth the Big Bore are what counts.

Alistair Sharp runs a basic Bmax with Big Bores and it works as well as the FT - but at a fraction of the cost.
You'd need:
Base Bmax (£180) - might as well get the plastic shock version as you aren't keeping them anyway
Big Bores (could also try the Ansmann/Team C ones - ask Stu)
Rear anti-roll bar kit.

You can add the alloy stuff later if you want - the motor mounts nice, not sure what the point of the steering bits are though.

By the next meeting I'll have the FT and Champ set much the same, both with 6.5t motors etc. You can try both and see what the difference is for yourself. The FT is nicer, but not worth the massive amount extra for......

I've only ever had the Bmax but love the thing. There are faster cars thats for sure, over a lap a 'Rango is quicker, but the Yoke is so easy to drive, forgiving and tough that it just makes for a brilliant race car. I've driven a mates 'Rango and I liked the feel of it (even though he hates it) but over 5 mins and in a race situation I'd always want my Bmax.

With the 'Rango you'd prolly want some of the upgrade bits like sus mounts straight away to make it tough enough which pushes the price. Sayin' that though the Factory Bmax isn't exactly cheap lol.

As someone else said check out Belsten's car for sale, although I think its just a champ pack car, so alloy shocks but not BIG BORES. And its all about the BIG BORES after all :)

ok can somebody explain the levels of the bmax4 as ive now seen one at £180, 230 and 420?? i only thought there were 2.

Ok. There are actually 4 levels, but the '09 is largely replaced by the FT

Firstly you've got your Bmax4. Thats the £180 car. Plastic shocks, no blue alloy, no anti-roll bar.

Then you've got the Champ pack. Thats the exact same car as above, but thrown into the box is another bag containing alloy shocks, a smaller spur and the Anti roll bar. Thats the £230 version

Next up is the '09 version. This has the alloy shocks, plus most of the blue alloy bits. These go for around £350

Finally you get the Factory Team at £420 with all the alloy and the big bores.

gaaaaaaaawd i cant decide the bmax would be nice but id have to spend mega ££££ to get it where id be happpy with it.

the durango looks solid with metal geared diffs unlike bmax.

no matter what i go for i have to replace my new lipos i just shelled out on for saddles :mad:

Does the Durango not support Saddles ?? Im sure it does as you get both styles of battery brace.

Thought I'd cast my vote :)

I would say that the Rango 410r does not really need the optional alloy, the only thing which has been commented on in the Rango thread has been the plastic pivot blocks but all the same it's very robust & has gained really good results as it is without forking out £££, on the whole it's really good value for money...

Little knowledge on the Bmax as I've never run one.

Both run saddles so no issues there :)