Build Questions
 

In Bag A (the CVD's), what size hex driver do I need for the little grub screws!?

I can't get my calipers in to check, and neither my imperial or metric drivers go small enough to get them in?

It is .005"

That small, or 0.05"? I've tried the 0.05" and can't get it to fit, 0.005" may explain!

Actually I am guessing you mean't 0.05, I've looked at a couple of shop sites and can;t find any wrenches smaller than that.

Which means either my grub screws are the wrong size, or the driver I bought is!?

They are definately 0.05, make sure the grub screw hex hasn't burred over

good luck

Sorry dave, yes .05":bored:

Think its the brand new driver I have bought, when I look at it it is wider at the tip than lower down the shaft!

Next question, putting the ball studs for the camber link on the rear shock tower, the instructions just mention the stud and a nut on te other side, but it loks like it might pull out of the carbon in an accident, should I use the 2 spare (there are 4 in the bag, 2 for use on the shock screws) spacers for this or has no-one found a problem with them?

I havent broken that dave, but i dont see any harm in putting an extra washer on the stud size, i wouldnt put the nut on though as this will move the link backwards and angle it, not sure what it will do but i think a straight link is better.

A washer would provide the same anyway as the stud acts the same as a nut.

Ok, bear with me on this one all, I'm sure its a really stupid question but I have never had dampers before which are filled from the bottom and not the top, so I am not sure how to make sure they are air free?

With others I use you pump the piston up and down before topping off the oil, but presumably I can't do that with these, so do I just brim them before screwing the bottom assembly on?

Push the shock shaft all the way into the cartridge so that the balljoint is at the cartridge. Then plop the extended shaft and piston into the shock body and push it all the way in slowly (ooooer :thumbsup:) Then screw the cartridge into the body slowly and wipe off the excess oil. On Losi shocks you fill the body up to the bottom of the threads before letting the piston sink in.

That does the trick for me and the Aero shocks work pretty much the same.

Pretty much!

• Fill the body up to just above the first thread inside
• put the cartridge in and tighten until a couple of threads are left.
• push the shock shaft in slowly to the bottom (and let the shock bleed oil)
• finally nip up the cartridge
• check the balljoint can bottom on the cartridge... if it doesn't loosen the cartdridge and bleed a little more oil.

Hope that helps

Great Thanks guys, I like the idea of this way of doing the shocks (plus love the fact that the bottom part is prebuilt) as hopefully one piece will make the top less likely to break!

If they have will I need to file out the hex?

Do any other makes use 0.05" grub screws of the same type by the way, I normally like to get spares for little bits like that?

you can have a go but they are so small you may struggle. I'm not sure why your driver doesn't fit, i've never had a problem with them. sometimes they are a little tight but thats a good thing as they are so small you want a good fit.

They are the same size as used in any car that uses MIP CVDs (associated, losi etc) but Aero will have bits like that available now, if not very soon.

Finally got the cvd's together by literally pushing a second 0.05" tool onto the grub screws :mad:. However, one of them spat my tool out first time I tried it and by then the thread lock had been on about 10 mins, anyone know how quickly it stops being effective, I don't want to lose a pin!?

Also, what are the cvd's made of? Had to really push on them to get the tool in the screw, worried I may have bent them?

If that sounds a stupid question my Tam tourer has aluminium driveshafts, and they bend all the time!!


Finally, for replacements, anyone reckon "ASC7381 CVD Rebuild Kit:T3,T4,TC4" will do the trick? If so I can get some from Losi parts house!? In fact does anyone know if these parts are the same for the cvd and axle too as on the T3?

I look for the manual of the Aero A-one...
Someone have this?

maxoo20@hotmail.com

thanks !!

Hi Maxoo,

I can't get to mine till the weekend, but can scan it in then and send it?

I think titanium, thought I read it somewhere

perfect !!!

big thanks !!!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Is there any way of getting air into the esc/motor?

I'm not sure of the rules, would airholes on the top of the sidepods be ok?