oOple.com Forums - Losi xxx4 g+ tips/mods

Hello,

In this topic you can find almost everything you want to know about Losi xxx4 G+.

This is an old model, so parts may be a problem. If you own a car, you know that the front diff cover, carriers and front pivots have a higher probability of breakage.

So, is better to talk now about a way to make this car a little durable. For each part mention above is a solution for improvement. For the diff cover are a couple of mods that can be done to increase the durability. First, you have to cut the from bumper post to the level of pivot block. Then drill two 2.4mm holes (for 3mm metric screw) in the center of each rectangle shape. After this, a little mod is needed to the front bumper, also a very rare part to find, as shown in the pictures. You have to cut the post that holds the bumper and make two 3mm holes above them in order to fit the 2.4mm on the diff cover. Insert two 3x10mm screws and done this part.

http://i.imgur.com/Ierrv4z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mcE9Ong.jpg

A little more meticulous mod is needed in order to increase the durability as shown in the picture below. You need to make two aluminum or carbon fiber pieces with two holes each. The dimensions doesn’t really care, you just should have a good amount of material left near the hole. You place them with the front diff cover mount on the chassis and sign for next step. You take a 2.4mm drill bit (for 3mm metric screw) and drill all four holes, two in the chassis and two in the diff cover. Finally, you need four 3x5mm screws to hold them in place.

http://i.imgur.com/bEo7yOT.jpg

With this mods the front diff cover is more durable and the energy of a front impact will be distribute better.
For the pivot the best option is getting the aluminum ones, rare parts, but is the only way.

Also for carriers the best way to improve durability is having the aluminum ones. But, you can do something cheap and with big effect. Take a peace of carbon fiber and glue it with CA tire glue in the parts. I do not have any picture with this done to the carriers, but I have done on spindles.

http://i.imgur.com/JypfKfZ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tQZGztv.jpg

Another important mod on this car is a front chassis brace. But, this can’t be done without using a CNC rooter or a laser one. I make mine using 4mm steel.

http://i.imgur.com/31rguWJ.jpg

For a more durable front end of the car you need the newer version of arms, those with an "X" shape.

Also, due to the lack of parts, I make my own towers.

Now, let’s talk a little about a steering mod. Many people start making a mod in steering, but all of them implies to cut in the front part of the chassis for more room of the steering parts. This will help breakage and it is not what we want. I tried to make something that uses just the room we have…and came up with this.

http://i.imgur.com/s1hX71L.jpg

Turn upside down the chassis, hold in place the steering posts brace and make those new two holes. Turn the chassis back and using a dremel but the excess material so that the steering post can be placed in the new hole. Use a countersink bit on the bottom of the chassis for more professional look.

http://i.imgur.com/WstodRp.jpg

Place the body posts, secure with the screws and add little JB weld for more strength. Now I need to find a solution for holding new parts on the steering posts and came up with this idea: two thrust bearings.

http://i.imgur.com/xyA1t4q.jpg

Looks good and it is strong enough. Complete the mod using a brace which connects together each side.
If this mod is not done properly, your car will have more steer in one side compared to the other, so make sure all the parts needed are milled as well as possible.

If you have problems with rear hubs, I find out that STRC rear hubs for Losi XXX SCB will fit the XXX4 without any modification. So aluminum rear hubs are easy to find.

http://i.imgur.com/QJ88xOV.jpg

Rear steel CVDs are still an easy target, you can get them from several hobby stores. The problem is the front ones. Steel front CVDs are rare, but aluminum ones are still available on eBay. You can use the aluminum ones for a long time if you drill another two holes when old ones increase the wear. Also, there is another alternative, the “new” Losi LCD. But, from what I’ve heard those are not as durable as the steel CVDs.

You can upgrade, if did not done already, the front differential to steel outputs like rear one. You need some parts that may be hard to find, that little aluminum cylinder, but the outputs are still available for the XXX-T truck.
If you rebuild the differentials, I would recommend you to install on both front and rear the 41T pulley, it is stronger than 42T stock pulley. The tensioner can compensate the extra length due to pulleys change with no problem. When you place the differentials in the car, make sure both of them have the adjustable screw head on the left driver side.

Make sure the slipper is loose enough so the differential can work properly without slipping them.
Don’t forget those two washers on the slipper post assembly!, without them you slipper will rub the tensioner arm.

http://i.imgur.com/ntabxMg.jpg
In this picture you can see that there is a little gap between the slipper assembly and tensioner arm.

If you have the old model of tensioner role keep it, the newer one, with a kind of groove is not so good. If you can get the HD tensioner, do it, is the best.
For the rear pivots I use a CNC to drill a larger hole and insert some bushes like in front.

http://i.imgur.com/cZVMZJU.jpg

I will try to find the aluminum motor clamp to complete my list of upgrades, can't find on a decent price:(

Also, what I forgot to mention about the front durability upgrade is adding some carbon fiber inside the front diff cover on the edge of bottom holes.

http://i.imgur.com/qDqAWfp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/rT2akKt.jpg

On the thrust bearing side is a very small shim, I need some extras because the old ones got some wear and became concave :( So...the result using the lathe.

http://i.imgur.com/8fnjj10.jpg

I read and find out that Schumacher carriers, part no SCHU3316, fits XXX4. Those carriers are stronger than the original plastic ones.

I receive a pair of rear MIPs and a rebuild kit in order to rebuild both front and rear CVDs. I find out that MIP has three types of rear CVDs. First, without capture ring, second I believe with threaded capture ring and third with a groove holding the capture ring.

http://i.imgur.com/MGCuTjM.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MGCuTjM.jpg

Because of the rebuild kit that uses capture ring and the front steel CVDs I have are first type, I need to use some glue to hold that ring.

http://i.imgur.com/uJOEJB5.jpg
I also remove the vinyl material from CVDs.

http://i.imgur.com/PJpxtt0.jpg

Shocks need also a rebuild, I have new O-rings and shafts, but enough for now.

And some fresh paint on towers and steering parts.

http://imgur.com/a/Kh6HD

Since now I ran a blocked slipper, but for indoor racing is quite a problem, too much stress on the ball diffs.
Now, I have a new slipper assembly, new pads and new spur gear. I assembled them without a shim in order to get more threads on the nut. A little thread lock maybe required, but I will try first without.

http://i.imgur.com/ImMhGPY.jpg

The Invader body does not have room enough for some motors. So, I cut a little from the body and add some lexan to protect from dust a little.

http://i.imgur.com/KWGY3Um.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1i5xQ5z.jpg