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GTB setups
What are you 'good' guys running your GTB's at, with regards to ESC settings? (2WD and 4WD)
Ive seen afew people say that they run zero drag brake in 4WD, ive heard some people say they set their TX's to 150% brake, bind the ESC and then turn the TX down...loads of things. |
Set your EPA to 100% (or 150 on a KO) and setup your speedo as per instructions for end points and defaults. Then assuming you are running a sintered Novak motor I STRONGLY advise you change nothing except the drag brake setting (orange AND blue light together, 2nd setting in the sequence). For this I suggest 1 flash (none) in 4wd and 2 flashes (almost none) in 2wd.
Any buggering about more that this is likely to detract from performance, the only thing I would consider doing is dialling in a little negative throttle curve (10% say). |
So the 150% trick is ONLY for the KO then? Thats ok, im running a Spektrum TX.
Do you find that running less drag brakes is a universal thing amongst many racers Dan or your own personal preference? I shall try it on Friday though, thanks :) |
As long as your EPA is high enough to achieve a decent resolution of throttle postions from the stick, then as long as you don't change your EPA settings AFTER you've setup the speedo to the handset it doesn't make any difference. I don't quite understand how/why KO go to 150%, as to me whatever the max is should be called 100%.
Less drag brakes is universal (on sintered rotors) I think except for Craig Harris who seems to run more, but I personally don't know anyone who prefers this. It was once suggested to me that shaft drive cars might need 2 flashes in 4wd due to less coast down drag over a belt car, not sure whether is actually holds any water. For me the stock drag brake is/was more drag brake that a brushed motor, hence I reduced it on both my cars so it felt just like a brushed motor. I preferred it on 100% stock setting when running a bonded rotor. Also if you're running Spektrum, re-bind them after setting your speedo up, so that it defaults to the correct neutral point (safe) so when you turn your tranny off it just sits there in safe mode, as by setting up the tranny to the speedo might have moved the points from when you originally bound the tranny to the receiver (does this make sense?). |
It does, and thanks for all your help so far :)
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See me on friday mate if you need help!
M. |
Mark - if you see my B4 fire off into the wall at the end of the straight, you can safely assume that I wasnt used to zero drag brakes :)
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cough, B4 = 2wd = 2 flash of drag brake = some drag brake ;)
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would you go to 3 flashes in a b4 dan with a bonded motor:confused:
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I do the same as Dan, 2 flash 2wd and 1 flash 4wd for drag brake.
I also set the end points at maximum brake, but then I turn down the maximum on the transmitter to around 60-70% as on the track I don't want to lock the wheels. Max brake is more than I need. I have never run bonded, so id suggest setting same as above and trying it. Afterall its only a 2second job to dial in more drag brake.. :thumbsup: |
I found that standard drag was fine with a bonded rotor. (I think that is 4 flashes), but as soon as I put a sintered rotor in it was very noticable in 2wd how bad the handling was, as the car just pivoted lots mid corner. Quite okay indoors on high grip, but a handful at high speed outside.
Do as Dan says and run 2 flashes in 2wd. |
The reason I did the 150% brake thing was to get more useable brakes. With the GTB and KO combination I had too much initial brake. From what I have seen on my sons Spektrum DX3R seems to have very subtle brakes so you probably won't have the same issue.
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I must admit to turning the overall brake strength down on low grip tracks becaue the overall strength is too high. This is the knob on the top left of a KO. The EPA is still set to 150 but is temp turned down by the knob.
I've never felt the initial brake is too much, they come in very smoothly I think, but you can turn this down on the speedo, you can't effect initial brake on the tranny as far as i'm aware. |
I am after more brakes in 2wd, but i feel this has something to do with the bonded rotor, the brakes just feel very soft.:confused:
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Default profile is 4 flashes.
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Ive got my tx set to 18% brake and its just about right.
Such a difference lol |
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I've re-set a few peoples speedos when they've had issues and usually this is because they've chased a problem that wasn't really there (in terms of speedo setup, maybe a car problem). So when they've fixed the real issue, the change of settings has adversly effected things. Once we've done a reset and turned the brakes down again they've all been really happy. Lee - it's easy for me to say this but there is no occasion I'd chose to run a bonded rotor. However when I did I found the default 4 flashes OK. The strength and feel of the brakes is no where near as good as a sintered rotor. Frogger - On mine if I went at speed to just putting a little brake on it slows down very gradually, the only exception being in the wet you need to be more carefull. However what you've done is esentially turned the max brake down to 66% and set it to be as smooth as possible, if that works for you then that's cool. C0sie - 18%, when the ogiginal setup was on 150%? so that means you are only using approx 12% of the maximum braking? If so I'm surprised you can even feel that. Again each to their own but your GTB/motor combo must have freakishly strong brakes |
Nah Cris is an animal, he just slams on the breaks, so needs it set soft to handle it. i am sure he will turn it up again on Friday Dan! LOL:p:D
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