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stampede vxlboy 10-09-2009 10:02 PM

madrat
 
diff problem coming loose half way through a run can anybody help plz

bigred5765 10-09-2009 10:25 PM

which side is the diff screw on as you look at the car from behind?

jim76 10-09-2009 10:27 PM

yeah, check the diff is in the right way round. Also maybe replace the lock nut incase the nylon is worn. Or thread lock it a tiny bit

Dazzler 10-09-2009 10:38 PM

+1 for big red's suggestion (Diff in the wrong way round) but also check that the thrust race under the screw head is assembled correctly and is free moving to allow the diff screw to rotate freely in the LH outdrive.

stampede vxlboy 10-09-2009 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim76 (Post 285239)
yeah, check the diff is in the right way round. Also maybe replace the lock nut incase the nylon is worn. Or thread lock it a tiny bit

diff the right way around i put so thread lock on it but did not take the screw on to do it just put some over the nut a tighten . but i will take the screw out and the nut out and try and thread lock it again my b4 will be here some :thumbsup:

stampede vxlboy 11-09-2009 12:00 AM

diff good but comes loose all the times after about 10 times :woot:

peetbee 11-09-2009 06:37 AM

If the threadlock isn't working, it's time to change the nut for a new one, as previously mentioned the nylon is no longer gripping the screw.

super__dan 11-09-2009 06:41 AM

You're sure it's not the slipper clutch slipping? Does it sound like a bark or a whineing noise?

stampede vxlboy 11-09-2009 08:17 AM

yes it does sound like that :thumbsup:

rc_dan 11-09-2009 09:38 AM

tighten your slipper, a half a trun see if it stops, back it of a bit if u feel its too much

stampede vxlboy 11-09-2009 09:53 AM

its the diff and slipper make like a thrusting nosie and a high winding nosie and the car driving crap :thumbdown: all my other car are shot on but the just cant get it right at all what shocks do used on the madrat rat have you got any metal bits for sale that you got off gibins you got loads of spare parts i was going to buy it you bet me by 10 second

stampede vxlboy 11-09-2009 09:55 AM

its full tighten up anjd i have turned it back half of a full turn

jim76 11-09-2009 10:24 AM

also thighten the diff up very tight. I had to tighten mine until i physically couldn;t turn the screw any more in order for the slipper to function before the diff.

Must say though, the diff is probably the smoothest of any car i have owned. I expected the diff balls to be cheese, but it is smoother than my old B4.

stampede vxlboy 11-09-2009 10:52 AM

i have done that in the past and put some thread lock down the drive cups to nut . but will take the screw out and do it right this time ,and how should the slipper be set up???? as the car is all over the place and driving crap

jim76 11-09-2009 11:02 AM

use a new nylock nut in the diff. Add a bit of threadlock to the screw to be safe and rebuild as per manual. tighten the diff right up until it is VERY hard to tighten the screw any more.

rebuild the car. Start with the slipper fairly loose and tighten a quarter turn each time until the slipper only whines for a few feet under hard acceleration (on a high grip surface). This will help prevent the car wheelying too much (asuming you have some lead in the front!)

stampede vxlboy 11-09-2009 11:08 AM

what size is the nut ? what that from been full tighten?. do i have to take the diff out of the gearbox ?????

jim76 11-09-2009 11:30 AM

check the manual for nut size, i'm guessing standard M3 nut off the top of my head.

I would advise taking the diff out of the car and rebuilding it from scratch. probably turn over the diff plates if it has been slipping and they are badly grooved.

DCM 11-09-2009 11:40 AM

Diff screw should be on the left hand side (motor side), and the nut on the right hand side (slipper side), nut is a 2.5m nyloc.

stampede vxlboy 11-09-2009 11:50 AM

which is the diff plate ? thanks i am trying everywere to get a nut cant get 1

DCM 11-09-2009 11:53 AM

order a tamiya diff nut, same thing.


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