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-   -   X6 - Front wheels binding at full lock (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57051)

/tobys 08-11-2010 12:58 PM

X6 - Front wheels binding at full lock
 
Hi guys

Noticed this at the weekend (only 2nd run out). When running regular width front wheels and with the camber link in position B, the wheel rubs on the ball cup to the extent that the wheel stop spinning. So far, I've countered this by reducing the steering throw on my radio but this doesn't seem the best answer as I'm decreasing my steering lock. It doesn't happen with narrow wheels (staggered ribs).

I have the axle height set low (washers at top) and running the "kit" trailing axles in the forward position.

Any thoughts/comments? Thanks!

wes j. 08-11-2010 01:08 PM

Judging by the way it was going at Broxtowe yesterday it didn't appear to be slowing you down :thumbsup:.

Robbiejuk 08-11-2010 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by /tobys (Post 430771)
Hi guys

Noticed this at the weekend (only 2nd run out). When running regular width front wheels and with the camber link in position B, the wheel rubs on the ball cup to the extent that the wheel stop spinning. So far, I've countered this by reducing the steering throw on my radio but this doesn't seem the best answer as I'm decreasing my steering lock. It doesn't happen with narrow wheels (staggered ribs).

I have the axle height set low (washers at top) and running the "kit" trailing axles in the forward position.

Any thoughts/comments? Thanks!

I have never had this? You have got thing in the right hole, I.e. the ball is on the ackermann link is in the kit position and on the steering arm? What about the spacer on the wishbone is that as kit?

I do remember that you used to move the wishbone spacer to suit which axle type you had, one was for trailing and one was for the inline axle. I also remember it was recommended to move the ball stud on the sterring arm if you changed the ackermann position.

I am sure you have got them in the right place Toby but you never know :)

MRD 08-11-2010 05:00 PM

Mine does this under full droop but not that bad that the wheel stops, it just rubs. There are two different heights of ball stud, black (short) and silver (Tall). Make sure you have the black ones on the C Hub :).

/tobys 08-11-2010 11:06 PM

Thanks for your input guys!

Having re-checked, everything is built correctly. I am using the Lunsford ballstuds and JC ballcups, as per the EC kit, and I believe that the ballstuds are all the same height throughout the kit... The Lunsford items do appear to stand off more than those on my old B4, when compared side by side.

FWIW, it's the outside wheel that's rubbing on the ballend. Maybe it's just the extremes of the suspension travel (as MRD suggests)? It seems less of an issue when the wishbone are parallel, for example.

Big E 09-11-2010 08:01 AM

I have some very small marks on my turnbuckles but that can only happen at full drop (which we run a lot off) and full lock and even then there is no way it is actually effecting the spinning of the wheel to the point it's going to cause any issue.

I actually think most of it has come from crashes when it all just flex's a little.

One thing to note as well is I never had this when I ran Losi ends as they are a little smaller in diameter.

But it's never really worried me. If you wanted to stop it you could fit a short neck ball joint.

E.

/tobys 09-11-2010 09:13 AM

Thanks E!

Thinking about it a bit more, I think you are right; the effect of the "rubbing" will be quite minimal when the car is in motion.

welsh wizad 13-11-2010 09:37 AM

x6
 
u could put spacers in the shocks to shorten shocks and reduce droop


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