vega b4.1 build Qs
 

Just built up my b4.1 conversion today, im just no sure about a few bits, I had already read about the rear wishbones turn and dremel clearance for the outdrives.

I also found i had to shim the layshaft slightly on the spur gear side to stop end float and to give clearance between the gear and housing

the last thing was that i shamfered the ae toe in block on the rear slightly so it gave the motor full movement

Not big problems just wanted some reasurence that it what others have done .

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/9...ab4mods001.jpg
By andypearson at 2011-05-14
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8413/vegab4mods005.jpg
By andypearson at 2011-05-14
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/9...ab4mods004.jpg
By andypearson at 2011-05-14
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/2...ab4mods009.jpg
By andypearson at 2011-05-14


Cheers

Andy - I run the Kyosho but yes that is what you do on the AE version.
I will try and get Dave Burton to post his set up as his car is awesome - nearly as good as mine - LOL

Hi Andy, Yes your 100% correct mate, Dremel the wish bones to clear the diff out drives and put a 45 deg chamfer on rear hinge pin block to clear motor. I built my one on Friday and took pics of the mods to help other Vega owners, I will post them up shortly.

Hope you enjoy the car :thumbsup:

Here is a pic of wish bone, only takes about 30 sec to do this with dremel and clears out drives as on the Vega you swith the arms round so the shocks bolt to the rear:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...dling/vega.jpg

Also you need to take a 45deg angle off the top of the rear hinge pin brace, again a quick easy job, this just allows more movement for the motor.

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...ng/vega004.jpg

I also had to do the 45deg on the rear hinge pin brace, but I was not sure whether this part is identical on my b4 and the b4.1, but now we have that confirmed :)

Cheers for the help lads, i have added some pics now to show what i did. The pics show two shims but i had to try a few different amounts / thicknesses to get it right.

anyone experiencing loose bearings to box?

how about the diff, have people put a load of shims to remove the slack? (wider bearing offset than b4.1)

I am right that dremeling the wishbones makes them weaker?

NOT IF YOU DO IT RIGHT

As per the pictures in this thread, you are taking material from the centre of the wishbone so you still have the meaty ends of the wishbone go through the hinge pin. So far the lads at my club with the Vega B4's have had no issues with rear arms breaking.

One thing I may try is X6 sq rear arms to see what effect this has on the car.

What's the proper way to mount a shell on Vega? Standard Asso screw in the front, and Velcro in the back?

Good question that ... The height of the shell at the back needs to be set by something because of the spur gear.

Going on your roof could easily push the shell down and cause it to rub.

I wondered about using some of those spare holes on the shock tower to mount something to help keep the shell up.

The height of the rear of the shell on all the Vegas is set by the shock tower mounts on the gearbox. The shell has a flat area for this. I think most people just use Velcro to hold the shell on.

I know what you mean, but they're sloping, so for me that's not quite good enough.

I want a solid flat surface, at the right height.

Can you take a photo? The bit the rear of the shell should sit on is flat. unless the rear of your shell has been cut too short. My shell sits on there without any issue.

Usually, yes! ... But I've lent my car to a pal so he can reference it (mainly regarding the dremelling!) while he builds his.

Edit: you can see mine here http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...8&postcount=93.... And now I've had a look I know what you mean, and yes, maybe I have cut the shell a tad too short, but I did nevertheless cut it on the moulded lines.

Does anybody have a template for window masks?