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Not a team driver.
Have put a few hours on both kf2 (carbon chassis mostly ) and KC ( mostly carbon chassis pos 2 motor but have done some back to back runs with KC in pos3 - with metal chassis for latter).
Not exactly the best driver tbh but started 4 months ago so learning on the way. Running at SHRCCC / DMS / EPR and once at Stotfold (in the dry the pos2 KC is actually really nice at Stotfold).
Pros for KC particularly
Shorter / tuneable front wheel base options on KC are nice.
Revised front wishbone for KC good also - feels better back to back KF2 vs KC.
Easy options for moving rear suspension front and rear mount on KC also a bit easier vs KF.
Front wing option for KC.
Diff height change possible for KC. Plays a bit against the option Alu rear hub carrier with the brass insert but it's there.
Negatives:
Ball diff in the KC is brass outdrive. It's a bit softer and wears faster vs the version on the KF.
Battery height option LCG works well for more motor forward. But it's a bit odd for the motor rear options. The weight feels more rear loaded. Have tried LCG and standard shorties on Pos3 back to back and definitely more predictable with standard shorty battery (weight around 200g balanced for LCG with brass Wright below lipo).
KD with LCG was pretty hard to drive with the amount of rear bias which was less severe when switching to standard shorty for the KD.
The plastic or carbon bits on both which people tend to change out - front bulkhead and steering link. Maybe rear link holder. Those bits and pieces add up and you end up close to a yz2 price which has more alu parts in the kit from the off.
Some parts such as carbon chassis and conversion kit have taken a long time to come available.
Most guys if they have the KC have been running it in position 4 from what I've seen at those tracks. It copes pretty well with wet astro - As such the KD does seem to be overkill unless you are really running on very slippery terrain or dirt. Worth noting also that the KD is noticeably slower on acceleration and the gearing options more narrow vs the KC.
Getting at the diff on the KD is poor vs KC which is pretty much done with 6 top access screws (4 top bulkhead and 2 for the belt tensioner).
Personally I wouldn't go for the KF2 now unless picking up a bargain 2nd hand (sub 100£ now). KC is good option if you can stretch it.
Do be wary of aerosol painting the kc / kd shell. A few people (me included) have cracking on the shells. So keep the rear mount and consider velcro to try and avoid cracks. And paint brush the shell if you can.
Rider on all this is that fast guys are fast no matter what they drive. Go for what gets your interest / what will not make you feel like something is holding you back half way thru the season.
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