TLR 22 dif probs

[smitty]

hello mate unfortunately you have to take the back end to bits to get the gear box out it is the only way .

[cr1tch]

Originally Posted by chris_dono

sorry, me not being clear there hehe

I meant to get the diff out for a rebuild

mine is pritty easy being rear motor only 6 screws, only took me 7 mins to strip, re build diff (with ceramic balls) and then re build diff housing into car. As some of the guys at southport found out saying that i would never have the car build for my race.

[Spencer Mulcahy]

Originally Posted by bigred5765

Spence Ive built a few now not spun a single nut, may be you've got a cocker hand are just ripping them apart lol,
no i would just glue it in with super glue, thats all i did,and not had one complaint yet lol tempting fate yeah I'm sure

Hi Carl I have tried the superglue it stops it from spinning but the nut will strip if you do it to tight. I have put the ae one in now alot better.

[stegger]

Originally Posted by Spencer Mulcahy

Hi Carl I have tried the superglue it stops it from spinning but the nut will strip if you do it to tight. I have put the ae one in now alot better.

Spencer, are you using the B4 bolt, spring and the one piece T nut or just the T nut and bolt ?

[Spencer Mulcahy]

I am using the bolt and t nut not the spring. Not sure if I should use the spring as well but it feels better now and the setting of the diff is better as you are not frightened of stripping the nut.

[stegger]

Originally Posted by Spencer Mulcahy

I am using the bolt and t nut not the spring. Not sure if I should use the spring as well but it feels better now and the setting of the diff is better as you are not frightened of stripping the nut.

Cheers dude

[steveproracing]

I used the ae spring aswell. If u compare the ae spring with the tlr one u will notice that the tlr one goes coilbound very quickly. The ae spring gives a much more progressive adjustment range to the diff!!

[Delves]

Originally Posted by Delves

Ive just rebuilt my diff after destroying it at the weekend. Things that I did differently;

1) I used Tamiya Hard Damper grease on the back of the diff plates to stop the plate from slipping (I always used this grease when building my TC Tamiya diffs to stop the plates slipping on the diff halves... got this tip of Hupo when he was driving for Tam a few years back).

2) I have used a whole world of black grease on the thrust, and then again a load of clear grease in the diff.

3) Ran the diff in at low speed (for around 5-8 mins) and slowly tightened it up till it was as tight

I have kept everything standard, so no ceramic balls! But after all that the diff feels good on the bench, but the test will be after the first practice on Sunday. Just thought I would share this and hope the info comes in handy... will report back after sunday to let you guys know if the diff held up better than before

As I said I would report back on this... the diff held up and remained smooth throughout the day. A definite improvement on the previous week where the diff had gritted up after 1 run. Only thing I would say if that the diff feels tight in action rather than free like those running with the ceramic balls. But for those that aren't going the ceramic ball route this worked to good effect

[kinggareth]

Originally Posted by Spencer Mulcahy

I am using the bolt and t nut not the spring. Not sure if I should use the spring as well but it feels better now and the setting of the diff is better as you are not frightened of stripping the nut.

I've used the ae bolt and screw but when tightening the screw down I firstly shattered one of the thrust bearing washers, then after I'd replaced that the screw snapped as i tightened it!!

I swear I'm never going to get to drive this car!!

I'm guessing that I'm going too tight, but the destructions did say tighten right down then loosen - and the screw was still turning.

[ianjoyner]

Originally Posted by kinggareth

I'm guessing that I'm going too tight, but the destructions did say tighten right down then loosen - and the screw was still turning.

Yes I'm not sure the manual is very clear there, I don't know if it just means tighten until the lugs on the diff nut holder get to the end of the slot, but even that is probably a bit tight. I don't know why you would want to tighten it beyond where it won't easily slip.

I've rebuilt my completely standard diff twice now, I had to glue the nut in the holder, other than that it has worked okay, but it does start to feel crunchy soon after running it, even if it is free and doesn't slip. I got about 4 meetings out of it first time before it got very crunchy. A friend's built his standard but with ceramic balls and it felt smoother than mine ever did, so I'll try some of those, if it's smoother in the first place, it will probably last longer.

[jampat2004]

Originally Posted by kinggareth

I've used the ae bolt and screw but when tightening the screw down I firstly shattered one of the thrust bearing washers, then after I'd replaced that the screw snapped as i tightened it!!

I swear I'm never going to get to drive this car!!

I'm guessing that I'm going too tight, but the destructions did say tighten right down then loosen - and the screw was still turning.

hi
i knew about these probs with the diff just before i built my 22 as a friend of mine had probs with his.
the way i did mine was to get the diff bolt and the diff nut run the nut up and down the bolt twice,this makes a smooth thread in the nyloc nut and stops you stripping the plastic nut carrier.
next get your diff spring and compress it a few times with a pair of pliers,carry on and build the diff run the diff bolt up till you feel some resistance then being gentle and feeling how tight you go you will feel that the spring has compressed ,back off 1/4 of a turn and your diff should be good.
this is how i built mine first time with no issues,if your having to replace your broken kit parts buy yourself a ceramic diff balls and thrust ball kit,the kit balls are poor quality and the diff gets notchy after just one run.hope this helps

[Wacker 2]

I built mine as per kit to start and I had issues too...

I had read on here that the nut turned easily in its plastic housing and so when I built it up I used a drop of super glue to glue the nut in before assembling and I am pleased to say that I have had no issues what so ever with that.

After running mine it felt really rough after 1 run using the standard balls and thrustrace... when I stripped it down the diff plates looked a mess but the thrust plates didn't look too bad so I think the main issues is the diff balls and not the thrust balls.

Saying that I did rebuild it with Vampire ceramic diff balls, brand new diff rings and ceramic thrust balls from RcLazy and brand new thrust plates.... After running it all day at the regional at Oswestry on Sunday, 'The Zohan' would say it felt "Silky Smooth"!!!

I havent experienced any problems with the nut stripping but I may look at getting the AE diff nut, screw and spring and install them as I know they are strong... trying to prevent any problem before they happen.

Very happy with the diff now - ceramic is the way forward

[Muggydude]

Just some tips I learned from Dustin Evans the other day when he helped me build my diff (we share the same home track!)

Use AE Clear and Black Grease
The stock rings are presanded, the best you will find in any kit.
Ceramic Thrust Bearings with some quality carbide main diff balls is the way to go. The stock diff balls can have problems with quality. I'm using BFAST ones and they are excellent quality.
Make sure you break the diff in properly! And DO NOT let the diff slip. It likes to be run tight
You don't need too much clear grease on the diff balls.
A little clear grease on the bottom of the rings helps keep them from slipping.

[lynx75]

Originally Posted by Muggydude

Just some tips I learned from Dustin Evans the other day when he helped me build my diff (we share the same home track!)

Use AE Clear and Black Grease
The stock rings are presanded, the best you will find in any kit.
Ceramic Thrust Bearings with some quality carbide main diff balls is the way to go. The stock diff balls can have problems with quality. I'm using BFAST ones and they are excellent quality.
Make sure you break the diff in properly! And DO NOT let the diff slip. It likes to be run tight
You don't need too much clear grease on the diff balls.
A little clear grease on the bottom of the rings helps keep them from slipping.

Thanks for sharing this.

I would like to receive a confirmation.
In the 22 manual at page 30 the diff screw must be keep on the left side of the car (if we look the car from the rear).

Is it correct, isn't it? Could you confirm it please?

because the B4 keep the screw on the right side of the car.

Thanks,
Marco.

[Wacker 2]

From what I remember you have the diff screw on the motor side... so if ur running mid motor and you look at the car from the front, the diff screw will be on the left hand side.... but if you're building it as rear motor then the diff screw will be on the right hand side.

The fact that you can use the diff in the same direction with the diff screw in either side, would suggest to me that it doesn't really matter which way round you put it.

I reckon they suggest you having the diff screw on the motor side in each configeration so that it is easier to get to when you wanna adjust it... clipping off ball studs on the spur gear / gear cover side is a always a pain in the backside as there's less room!

I'm sticking with the manual... no problems so far

[ianjoyner]

Originally Posted by Wacker 2

From what I remember you have the diff screw on the motor side... so if ur running mid motor and you look at the car from the front, the diff screw will be on the left hand side.... but if you're building it as rear motor then the diff screw will be on the right hand side.

Yep, that's what the manual says.

[lynx75]

Here below the screen shot of the 22's manual.

Its seems the adjustable screw is on the left of the car (if you look the car from the rear).

BTW, the adjustable screw is not oriented to the slipper side then

Is it correct? did you test it?

thanks

[Chopster]

Originally Posted by lynx75

Here below the screen shot of the 22's manual.

Its seems the adjustable screw is on the left of the car (if you look the car from the rear).

BTW, the adjustable screw is not oriented to the slipper side then

Is it correct? did you test it?

thanks

Yep, in the rear motor config.. (1 idler in the box)

[Gnarly Old Dog]

I'm not sure it really matters which side. After all, you can't have a diff loosen itself when fitted one way but not tighten itself when fitted the other - can you?

If it did loosen or tighten, I would suspect something is wrong in the diff assembly - probably with with the thrust race as in theory, the screw head should not be affected by the rotation of whichever outdrive cup it resides in.

I tend to fit mine so that the screw hex head is on the side which makes it easiest to access for adjustment. In the mid car, this is (for me) with the hex screw head on the right.

For the rear car, I would be tempted to build it with the screw hex head on the left side - purely because the spur gear cover is on the opposite side so I imagine access would be easier on the left (for the rear motor).

[Neil78]

Would like to know people's thoughts on wether or not to grease the out drives before fitting the diff rings.The manual says to do so, some people say not to put any on and clean both surfaces and others seem to glue there's on.Would like to know the correct method as i'm about to rebuild my diff with new ceramic balls.