ESC to Motor Connectivity

[Bizz]

Hey guys and gals, question on how people connect their ESC to the motor.....currently mine is soldered which I understand is best for reducing power loss etc but can be a complete pain when I'm taking the gearbox out of my DEX210!

I'm running a motor which is way beyond my means right now anyway and my TX is set at 85% endpoints to try and limit the amount of spare parts I have to order after a club night so I don't mind adding a little resistance in between the ESC & motor if it helps car serviceability.

Just wondering which connectors people are using between the two, used to be deans when i raced in the late 90's but with three cables I imagine there's a better way now?

Ta much in advance

[i4n]

I've always soldered mine, but I don't mind getting the soldering iron out so it's no bother for me.

I've seen some people use 4mm tubes and bullets in the past (just make sure you use heatshrink around the outside of them as insulation). I've also just noticed that Hobbyking do connectors designed for the job as well:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...airs_bag_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...le_1_set_.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...le_2_set_.html

[Suzukitudor]

Buy a speed passion motor.

Approx £30 - they are designed to use tube connectors, changability between motors easy peasy. Get a 10.5 not too quick good motor to start with. Apex models do Speed Passion for a good cost.

[SlowOne]

Those plus are just the ticket. Don't be fooled by the 'power loss' argument.

Many moons ago RC Car Action did a proper test of plugs v wire. Almost anything with gold-plated surfaces, or the mighty Deans connectors, have a resistance equal to, or better than, the same length of wire. You'll lose nothing to a soldered connection. Go for it!

[beale]

http://www.giantshark.co.uk/product/...ors-x-10-pairs

I use these to swap motors for different classes

[mattr]

I do the same, 3,5 or 4 mm bullets/tubes in line, wrapped with heat shrink tube (one piece per joint).
Means there's no way for the connector to come undone during normal use/crashing. No chance of a short either.

It's good to do while you are in a swapping motors/settings/spurs/pinions/diffs phase.

Just need a scalpel/craft knife to split the heat shrink before swapping motors.

If the motor isn't likely to come out for a good while i.e. you have finished tweaking your set up, and it's fairly stable, I just change to soldered connections.

[Aire valley]

+1 for the 3.5mm gold connectors..(as per Giantshark above) never had any problems... Easy for motor changes, gearbox removal etc..