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#1
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New Soldering Iron and Solder REQUIRED PLEASE HELP?
I am in the market for a new Soldering Iron and some good quality solder? Can any soldering superstars recommend some decent yet affordable kit for me?
Currently using a Draper 40w iron and the standard solder that came with it, I have watched every tutorial on the web and been shown by some electronic whizz’s the correct way but still my soldering looks grey and not very shiny. Some jobs just seem impossible. I watched one video on YouTube of a guy soldering wires to the posts on a TEKIN RX8 speedo (same as mine) and he put the iron on the post and the solder was flowing within a second drops the wire in and bobs your fathers brother......... but mine I can hold it there 3 or 4 sec and nowt happens and I am constantly conscious of overheating speedos whilst soldering. I am sure it’s not just me as I manage just fine with connectors etc where I can allow more time for the heat to get through, just the more tricky jobs like ESC posts? All help much appreciated
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www.TeamKirk.co.uk | http://www.rprcdistribution.com | TEKNO SCT410.3 | SCHUMACHER KF2 | http://www.racing-cars.com/ |
#2
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Hi,
This is what I use: (Had it for the last 10+ years.) http://www.amazon.co.uk/Antex-660TC-.../dp/B003LYE1ES Temperature controlled so you can leave it on all day. Cheap and good range of replacement tips available. MiCk B. :-)
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http://www.dublinmodelracing.com/ (Off-road racing in Dublin) http://www.p-dubracing.co.uk (Stocking: 8Racing / AVID / GHEA / Xpert Racing / Factory R/C / Alton Design Innovations) http://www.msdmodels.ie/ (Trackside and on-line RC supplies.) |
#3
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You need decent silver solder for motors and ESC I use this stuff, expensive but brilliant.
Soldering irons need to be able to keep the joint supplied with heat so higher power is better typically. Soldering stations have decent power supplies that can control the heat well and I use one for small scale electronics. For RC racing I have an amazing gas powered iron which is rated at 125W but is controllable and has interchangable bits and can be converted to a hot air gun for heat shrink tubing. This is the kit I have, it is great value and has soldered 1/8th scale electrics. The make - Portasol - is the daddy of gas irons and they OEM for Snap On, Antex and a few other brands as well. ebay link All that and it is portable and can travel to the track with you! |
#4
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Thanks for the suggestions chaps, I like the portability of a gas one, another friend of mine has just suggested one from Maplins that I can get tomorrow so may just run with that!!
What solder are people using as im sure half the trouble ive had has been with crap solder??
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www.TeamKirk.co.uk | http://www.rprcdistribution.com | TEKNO SCT410.3 | SCHUMACHER KF2 | http://www.racing-cars.com/ |
#5
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The one I linked to, click on the word "this"
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#6
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Make sure it has enough power, Maplin stuff can be a bit cheap and cheerful. Your 40W Draper is a capable iron and you are struggling with that. Do not be tempted to go cheap again or you will have the same issues.
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#7
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I got the .aplun presision gold? (Black one) it's nit been defeated yet in motor and Speedo rewiring.
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MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD |
#8
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I use a 40w Draper and it does the job just fine. 40w should be enough for most things.
You want to make sure you're using 60/40 lead solder and that you tin the solder head properly else it wont be hot enough. I assume the solder head isnt all black? thats an indication its been too hot previously and may need to be replaced. Youtube some guides on how to tin, makes a world of difference. |
#9
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Quote:
The iron isnt a maplins own one, is an Pro Iroda Solder Pro 70 Gas Iron A mate recommended it as he used one for work every day for 4yrs, 125watt does seem a bit overkill really and will surely eat gas. Besides Id rather support a retail store as opposed to an online wherever I can
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www.TeamKirk.co.uk | http://www.rprcdistribution.com | TEKNO SCT410.3 | SCHUMACHER KF2 | http://www.racing-cars.com/ |
#10
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i've got a solder pro 70 its great easily do speedos or motors used it on cells too in the past only down side it the tips don't last that long, and you can't get just the big chisel tip on its own
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#11
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Justin I've got the pro iroda too, it's my second one. The first one was leaking gas and flames too , although it was 7 years old and a well used freebie if you need a bit of solder I've got a big roll you can have some off it, although can't remember what the mix is
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#12
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Quote:
I would recommend the 120 over the 70 as you can always turn 120w down but not 70w up |
#13
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Search ebay etc and try to get hold of leaded solder, it makes jobs so much easier regardless of the soldering iron used......for lead free solder you idealy should have a soldering iron of 80w or more as the melting point is a lot higher and it also has a "dryness" about the way it works....leaded solder will melt at lower points and has a much better flow to the way it works and the iron wattage can be a lot lower, around 45w will be fine
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#14
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This is the same as what I have in the workshop
bought 2nd hand over 25 years ago and still going strong As for solder I have been having a great deal of success with this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Advanced-X...item20df39332f |
#15
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So as I suspected, a fair amount of the success in this game is in the solder as much as the iron from what you chaps have said.
Opted for the Iroda 120watt and some silver solder!! Hopefully it should be a little better with better kit from the off Many thanks for all your help chaps, much appreciated
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www.TeamKirk.co.uk | http://www.rprcdistribution.com | TEKNO SCT410.3 | SCHUMACHER KF2 | http://www.racing-cars.com/ |
#16
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Cool, good luck, you have all the gear now
Have a practice first to get a feel for it. Try soldering some chunky wire to big connectors before trying a speedo. Loads of decent soldering vids on youtube. |
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