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Old 25-04-2011
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Default Ansmann X2Pro XL

Just to let everyone know, I have fitted a Macnum chassis to my X2, what a difference that has made to the car, in fact 15mm difference, it drives really well, very stable and balanced, had a practice with it on Saturday, with a few set up changes to make it handle just that bit better it felt really good to the point that the 2 guys with me on Saturday are F2 drivers (Dean Gibbs and Jon Seals) I managed to keep within shouting distance of them, usually they are that much faster they are are in a different league to me, I was wondering of anyone else has tried this, raced it on Sunday at Coventry against a few decent drivers, overall ended up 2nd in the B final, but in qualifiying I managed to get a 8th and 9th in round with lap times not far off the top runners, I think the best time was a 15 in 310, should have had a 16 lapper but didnt quite happen, you know how its is, I think it was the driver more than the car, the car needs more run time to get used to the longer chassis but overall I feel its a better set up than standard, a lot easier to drive, easier to push hard into corners, flows a lot better over bumps, checked it against a Losi 22 and its the same length, for the cost its a well worth upgrade to get a car that already handles really well and is even more competitive than standard. anyones thoughts one this subject will be more than welcome.
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Old 25-04-2011
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Almost tried out my madrat with a macnum chassis myself. I got sent the wrong one after an accident, the shell didnt cover the front properly. I honestly thought about racing it, but my sense of injustice at being sent a wrong part made me change it back.

If I recall, there was more space to add weight in the front, but a spacer in the battery compartment is needed so all the faffing around played a part in my decision too.
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Old 25-04-2011
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Yeah, what shell did you use?
I also thought that the x2 t piece is loads bigger than the width of the recess on the back of the macnum chassis?
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Old 25-04-2011
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I used a normal body, just trimmed it a bit longer with a shorter nose, then I remembered I had Tamiya trf201 body in the draw, needed a bit of dremel work but otherwise fits really well, pretty Cool body as well, I will take some pics soon.
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Old 25-04-2011
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This is not the mid motor car, that's the X2C, this is the X2 rear motor, the chassis uses the same T-bar on the truck as the buggy.
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Old 25-04-2011
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You use big bores? what surfaces is your track. I´m planning to do this mod
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Old 25-04-2011
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Coventry have a grass track that we used on Sunday, I use Losi shocks on both my cars.
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Old 25-04-2011
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I've wondered why 2wd cars are the length they are (wheelbase of B4 and its derivatives are around 280mm) when the BRCA handbook states they can be 460mm long (iirc). I presumed it was the best compromise of agility v stability. Mind you, the B4 was designed for much tamer powerplants than what we have now...

This conversion is similar to fitting a T4 chassis to a B4 - I wonder if that would work as well?
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Old 26-04-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConceptRacing View Post
Coventry have a grass track that we used on Sunday, I use Losi shocks on both my cars.
Can you post your setup for grass with the long chassis?

Thank you
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Old 26-04-2011
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I'm sure it would work on a B4 just as well, I was very surprised to feel how well it went, I was expecting it to have loads of under steer and just not work as well, I think I turned the steer rate up on my radio by a couple of percent, couple of small changes to the car, it felt a lot better than standard and so much easier to drive fast. As for set up I am not posting anything up yet as it will change again soon depending where I am racing and still trying to find out what seems to work best for the car.
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Old 26-04-2011
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Eric, I take it with the longer chassis it still falls within the BRCA rules for racing??
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Old 26-04-2011
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Hi Lee, I checked it with a brca box that coventry had in race control, as far as i know its only the width that is checked and not length, weight is fine, I cant see any problems with that seeing as its the same lenght as the Losi22.
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Old 26-04-2011
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Cheers Eric,

Do you have a part number for the chassis please? Might build one up out of the spares I have in my box

Will you be pulling any shells to fit the longer chassis??

How does the longer chassis rear motor compare to the mid motor buggy?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ConceptRacing View Post
Hi Lee, I checked it with a brca box that coventry had in race control, as far as i know its only the width that is checked and not length, weight is fine, I cant see any problems with that seeing as its the same lenght as the Losi22.
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Old 26-04-2011
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Hi Lee, I am looking at extending a mould to make it fit a X2 XL but at the moment it isnt a major problem using a normal body so im not sure yet if I will do the mould conversion at this moment,
To be totally honest I think I prefer the rear motor car than the mid motor but then I havent tried the mid motor on grass yet, waiting for a speedo to arrive so I can have both cars ready to race, when I have that I will know more, I only used the mid motor for indoor meetings over the winter, its had very little outdoor running apart from a couple of meetings at Coventry and Kiddiminster on a low grip surface in wet conditions so there really isnt a comparison yet, on a personal level I still prefer the way a rear motor car runs and drives, more to do with racing 12th in the past more than anything I feel, might sound a load of rubbish but its something I can relate to with this type of chassis, just suits my way of driving, hopefully I will be proven wrong when I can test them side by side.
part number for a macnum chassis is 125000409
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Old 26-04-2011
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Tanks for the part number Eric

I hear what your saying mate, I sold my X-Pro as I felt that the mid motor Monkey suited more my driving style! But like you I've yet to race the mid motor out doors or in anger!!
I wonder what my CORE SCT would handle like with shorter arms on it as I think the chassis for the CORE is even longer????
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Old 26-04-2011
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Well I suppose thats another chassis I could try, I also believe the other smaller short course has an even longer chassis than the macnum but I could be wrong, using the CoreSCT you could almost turn it into a desert buggy like the Kyosho DB, thats a full size SC chassis with buggy styling, I actually really like that but I couldnt see me being allowed to race that with the SC trucks as it handle even better than the trucks and would run rings round them.
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Old 26-04-2011
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The part number for the long chassis is 125000532. I ordered the chassis with the number 125000409 hoping it is the long chassis, but it was the standard chassis used on the X2.
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Old 26-04-2011
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Forget it, you are not so fast as like it with the standard short one, easy to handle - thats right, but not fast enough in hair pin corners

Try to use shims in front, that helps a lot

Andreas
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Old 26-04-2011
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That's the part number the sales rep gave me, he has been known to get it wrong at times, the car had plenty of steering for the couple of hair pins we had laid out on the track, tried shims under the front camber links but didn't like it, I presume that's what you meant, hopefully the astro track at coventry will ready for use again soon, so should be able to do some more testing soon.
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Old 27-04-2011
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Hey Eric, I'm glad you've tried this mod

Note for all those keen to do this you need the longer battery strap as well. You can use the standard body it looks a little funny at the front like a tall guy waring short pants but it works well and you can just cut a new body a little longer and its perfect!!

My starting setup is;
Front
Outside on arm and middle on the tower. Losi 35wt oil with purple (soft) spring or the kit black.
Short front camber link so inside on the bulkhead and the castor block with a 1mm spacer under the ballstud (Bulkhead).

Rear
Inside on arm middle on tower. Losi 30wt oil with red (medium) spring or kit black.
Medium camber link so inside/top on the bulkhead and the middle of the rear hub (Alum upgrade) with a 2mm spacer under the ballstud. If using the kit plastic rear hub then outside and top is similar.

I have the battery in the middle so even spacers either side of battery, I run the wing in the high position on the tower.
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