Go Back   oOple.com Forums > Car Talk > KYOSHO

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 13-02-2007
joffacn's Avatar
joffacn joffacn is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 51
Default "Must have" parts and "nice to have" parts?

Hi
This would need some work but ...
Could there be a list of the parts (and part numbers ) for the parts that should be installed from the start when building.
This would be a HUGE help when buying a Kit and getting all the bits together. Save time and a heap in shipping costs.

Must Have:
Diff balls
Thrust Balls
Shock towers
Shock seals
...
Nice to have:
?
Essential Spares:
Diff gears?
?

I guess this type of list is the same for most buggies. They all need some mods which are found by the drivers in the months after a model is released.

MAYBE it could be a Sticky in each buggy thread.

Thanks Jeff
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 13-02-2007
sosidge's Avatar
sosidge sosidge is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,774
Default

Get hold of a hex screw kit before building the car, it makes it a lot easier. Phillips are OK but don't stand up to repeated disassembly.

Other than that the car runs pretty well from the box.

The only spares I have broken (excluding freak big crashes) are front shock towers and the non-updated tower mounts. Probably worth having some knuckles and arms as well.

Nice options... well, pretty much everything on the list if money is no option!

Last edited by sosidge; 13-02-2007 at 01:43 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 13-02-2007
Balders's Avatar
Balders Balders is online now
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 675
Send a message via MSN to Balders Send a message via Skype™ to Balders
Default

An Absolute must for the ZX5 is the Kyosho Alum. Front Suspension Holder KYOLAW31.
Without this you'll be going through front bulkheads like they are going out of fashion.....

Also the Titanium screw kit from Speedtech is a great idea, saves stripping those phillips head screws, plus its lighter..

As for spares to have in the pitbox its always handy to have a spare KYOLA210 which is the front bulkhead set and a spare pair of suspension arms just in case.

The only other thing I've broken is the chassis, but that was due to me running out of talent, running a silly speed brushless motor and hitting a wall straight on..

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/traveltax
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']The idea of tracking every vehicle at all times is sinister and wrong. Road pricing is already here with the high level of taxation on fuel. The more you travel - the more tax you pay.[/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']It will be an unfair tax on those who live apart from families and poorer people who will not be able to afford the high monthly costs.[/FONT]
[FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Please Mr Blair - forget about road pricing and concentrate on improving our roads to reduce congestion.[/FONT]
__________________

Mike Baldwin - Caldicot
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 13-02-2007
jim76 jim76 is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ruislip
Posts: 2,890
Default

10 degree front hubs are pretty advisable, i find these improve the handling no end. worth getting a few sets and some spare king pins, as i have broken a couple and you can never find the king pin!

atomic carbon top deck and towers are nice but not a must.
the screws and diff balls are the main thing to replace from the word go, along with the alloy front brace.
associated blue turnbuckles are also a nice addition and are the same lengths.
__________________
4wd - X4TE
2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!)

Ansmann Racing UK


RIP - MicroTech Racing

Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 13-02-2007
bert digler's Avatar
bert digler bert digler is offline
Mad Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: 500yds from matty simpson
Posts: 1,608
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim76 View Post
10 degree front hubs are pretty advisable, i find these improve the handling no end. worth getting a few sets and some spare king pins, as i have broken a couple and you can never find the king pin!

atomic carbon top deck and towers are nice but not a must.
the screws and diff balls are the main thing to replace from the word go, along with the alloy front brace.
associated blue turnbuckles are also a nice addition and are the same lengths.
i run a plastic front shock tower plus a carbon its a big plus and everything else the lads have said is bang on
__________________
who knows who cares
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 15-02-2007
SimonW SimonW is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 673
Default

I'm going to build up a plastic diff for the front, got some out-drive savers to fit as well gonna glue them in place and slap it in. Thats gonna save on rotating mass in the front end about 30g i estimate
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 16-02-2007
tty_wai tty_wai is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 12
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SimonW View Post
I'm going to build up a plastic diff for the front, got some out-drive savers to fit as well gonna glue them in place and slap it in. Thats gonna save on rotating mass in the front end about 30g i estimate
so that will be a custom make front spool????
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 16-02-2007
WheelNut's Avatar
WheelNut WheelNut is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Grande Prairie, AB, Canada
Posts: 36
Default

Are the stock diff balls really that bad? I haven't been able to run my buggy much, so I haven't been able to see for myself, but the Carbide diff balls in my B4 seem to have lasted a very very long time. The Kyosho diff balls are of a lower grade than the AE carbides though correct?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 16-02-2007
jim76 jim76 is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ruislip
Posts: 2,890
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WheelNut View Post
Are the stock diff balls really that bad? I haven't been able to run my buggy much, so I haven't been able to see for myself, but the Carbide diff balls in my B4 seem to have lasted a very very long time. The Kyosho diff balls are of a lower grade than the AE carbides though correct?
yes, the kyosho kit balls are a bit ropey. put AE balls in, or if you can stretch to it, some ceramics. also in the thrust race!
__________________
4wd - X4TE
2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!)

Ansmann Racing UK


RIP - MicroTech Racing

Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 23-02-2007
omen1975 omen1975 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 72
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim76 View Post
10 degree front hubs are pretty advisable, i find these improve the handling no end. worth getting a few sets and some spare king pins, as i have broken a couple and you can never find the king pin!

atomic carbon top deck and towers are nice but not a must.
the screws and diff balls are the main thing to replace from the word go, along with the alloy front brace.
associated blue turnbuckles are also a nice addition and are the same lengths.
I have had the same problem, keeping them king pins in seems impossible and when you loose one while racing its hard to know until you finally break the C hub from an akward landing. Been holding off on buying alloy knuckles as I cant seem to find them at a reasonable price, best price I've seen posted to Australia is $45 US (ouch). If only tamiya ones fitted

Omen1975
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 23-02-2007
jim76 jim76 is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ruislip
Posts: 2,890
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by omen1975 View Post
I have had the same problem, keeping them king pins in seems impossible and when you loose one while racing its hard to know until you finally break the C hub from an akward landing. Been holding off on buying alloy knuckles as I cant seem to find them at a reasonable price, best price I've seen posted to Australia is $45 US (ouch). If only tamiya ones fitted

Omen1975
i don't have any problem with the king pins falling out, it's only on a collision that breaks the hubs that they ping out never to be found!

the easy solution is not to hit things!
__________________
4wd - X4TE
2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!)

Ansmann Racing UK


RIP - MicroTech Racing

Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 23-02-2007
clunk's Avatar
clunk clunk is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: stoke-on-trent
Posts: 134
Default

i've been running mine for nearly 12 months,all outdoors,and have only broken the rear pin holder (a30).alloy knuckes and stuff ? have not tried ordering any,as i've not broken any yet !!! but have found these in the states at under $30 !! www.rckenon.com
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 24-02-2007
omen1975 omen1975 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 72
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by clunk View Post
i've been running mine for nearly 12 months,all outdoors,and have only broken the rear pin holder (a30).alloy knuckes and stuff ? have not tried ordering any,as i've not broken any yet !!! but have found these in the states at under $30 !! www.rckenon.com
Yeah I know $29US for knuckles, $30US for 7 deg C hubs plus $17US postage, I dunno about you but that seems a little pricey, they must deliver them in person too
Buy the way I have never broken rear pin holder

My Mods over last 8 months are:

KMRC chassis kit
Tony's screws
Lunsfords turnbuckles
Carbon works shock towers (found to be very strong)
B4 81T spur and slipper pads
B4 diff gears (pinion dilled to 5mm)
Asarashi undertray
Silicone nitride diff and thrust balls
Kyosho special suspension arm bushings
Alloy front brace
10 degree hubs
Badhorsie shock socks
LAW34 kit (to be fitted)

Omen1975
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 24-02-2007
clunk's Avatar
clunk clunk is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: stoke-on-trent
Posts: 134
Default

nice mods m8. the alloy stuff is a bit expensive,unless you break lots of them. ive been running the atomic ion kit,and really like it.def run 10degree blocks,and ive got some longer shock shafts on(about 4mm longer on front i think).also run the rear wheelbase as short as i can (think its my driving style !!!) and have done two meetings with the azarashi shell and wings,i cant say enough good things about this shell and wings ,they are a bit pricy,but work fantasticaly well and loads of room inside compared to the normal shell,and look different too !!!
am looking forward to racing this season.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 25-02-2007
Scouser's Avatar
Scouser Scouser is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 668
Send a message via ICQ to Scouser
Default

Any pics of your car with the Arazashi shell? Haven't seen one fitted to the car yet.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 25-02-2007
clunk's Avatar
clunk clunk is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: stoke-on-trent
Posts: 134
Default

IMG_0209.jpg
going to b spraying a new 1 soon for this season.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 30-03-2007
stik stik is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fermanagh
Posts: 36
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jim76 View Post
yes, the kyosho kit balls are a bit ropey. put AE balls in, or if you can stretch to it, some ceramics. also in the thrust race!
Im looking at putting in new AE diff balls in my zx5, also intend on changing thrust balls as well, will the AE thrust balls fit ok even though they are a fraction bigger (AE - 1/12.8, Kyosho - 1/16) or are balls from a different manufacturer required?
__________________
cars:
Schumacher Cat K1 Aero, Hobao Hyper SS-E

http://www.cloghervalleymcc.co.uk

Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 30-03-2007
jim76 jim76 is offline
*SuPeRsTaR mEmBeR*
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: ruislip
Posts: 2,890
Default

your probably better to get the correct size. i know microtech or modeltech (can never remember which) sell individual ceramic balls for about 80p for the small size and about £1 per diff ball. well worth the upgrade.
__________________
4wd - X4TE
2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!)

Ansmann Racing UK


RIP - MicroTech Racing

Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 30-03-2007
stik stik is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fermanagh
Posts: 36
Default

Thanks, looking into them at mo, its http://www.microtechracing.com//prod...ame=DIFF+BALLS

How well do the ceramic diff balls stand up against the likes of the AE balls in terms of durability, ive been running the zx5 now for about 5 or more weeks and the standard diff balls are starting to show their weakness, so hope to get them changed in the next week or two, which would be better??

Thanks
__________________
cars:
Schumacher Cat K1 Aero, Hobao Hyper SS-E

http://www.cloghervalleymcc.co.uk

Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 30-03-2007
pro4nut pro4nut is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: London
Posts: 540
Default

The AE are made of high carbon steel of a good quality, somewhat better than the zx5 ones.

Ceramic is a winner though as it is harder and they are 'more round' (really!!) So they last longer and the diff action is smoother. The diffs in my pred are of the ceramic ball type and have never been rebuilt since i got it (it was one of the first 50 or so that were sent out) I am sure that Jim would confirm how smooth they are.
You would be better served paying out for ceramics once rather than metal once or twice a season.

Also check the prices for the hpi ceramic diff balls for the pro4, they will work as well

Last edited by pro4nut; 30-03-2007 at 06:38 PM. Reason: oops
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 12:45 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
oOple.com