|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
"Must have" parts and "nice to have" parts?
Hi
This would need some work but ... Could there be a list of the parts (and part numbers ) for the parts that should be installed from the start when building. This would be a HUGE help when buying a Kit and getting all the bits together. Save time and a heap in shipping costs. Must Have: Diff balls Thrust Balls Shock towers Shock seals ... Nice to have: ? Essential Spares: Diff gears? ? I guess this type of list is the same for most buggies. They all need some mods which are found by the drivers in the months after a model is released. MAYBE it could be a Sticky in each buggy thread. Thanks Jeff |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Get hold of a hex screw kit before building the car, it makes it a lot easier. Phillips are OK but don't stand up to repeated disassembly.
Other than that the car runs pretty well from the box. The only spares I have broken (excluding freak big crashes) are front shock towers and the non-updated tower mounts. Probably worth having some knuckles and arms as well. Nice options... well, pretty much everything on the list if money is no option! Last edited by sosidge; 13-02-2007 at 01:43 PM. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
An Absolute must for the ZX5 is the Kyosho Alum. Front Suspension Holder KYOLAW31.
Without this you'll be going through front bulkheads like they are going out of fashion..... Also the Titanium screw kit from Speedtech is a great idea, saves stripping those phillips head screws, plus its lighter.. As for spares to have in the pitbox its always handy to have a spare KYOLA210 which is the front bulkhead set and a spare pair of suspension arms just in case. The only other thing I've broken is the chassis, but that was due to me running out of talent, running a silly speed brushless motor and hitting a wall straight on.. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/traveltax [FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']The idea of tracking every vehicle at all times is sinister and wrong. Road pricing is already here with the high level of taxation on fuel. The more you travel - the more tax you pay.[/FONT] [FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']It will be an unfair tax on those who live apart from families and poorer people who will not be able to afford the high monthly costs.[/FONT] [FONT='Verdana','sans-serif']Please Mr Blair - forget about road pricing and concentrate on improving our roads to reduce congestion.[/FONT]
__________________
Mike Baldwin - Caldicot |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
10 degree front hubs are pretty advisable, i find these improve the handling no end. worth getting a few sets and some spare king pins, as i have broken a couple and you can never find the king pin!
atomic carbon top deck and towers are nice but not a must. the screws and diff balls are the main thing to replace from the word go, along with the alloy front brace. associated blue turnbuckles are also a nice addition and are the same lengths.
__________________
4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
who knows who cares |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I'm going to build up a plastic diff for the front, got some out-drive savers to fit as well gonna glue them in place and slap it in. Thats gonna save on rotating mass in the front end about 30g i estimate
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
so that will be a custom make front spool????
|
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Are the stock diff balls really that bad? I haven't been able to run my buggy much, so I haven't been able to see for myself, but the Carbide diff balls in my B4 seem to have lasted a very very long time. The Kyosho diff balls are of a lower grade than the AE carbides though correct?
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Omen1975 |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
the easy solution is not to hit things!
__________________
4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
i've been running mine for nearly 12 months,all outdoors,and have only broken the rear pin holder (a30).alloy knuckes and stuff ? have not tried ordering any,as i've not broken any yet !!! but have found these in the states at under $30 !! www.rckenon.com
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Buy the way I have never broken rear pin holder My Mods over last 8 months are: KMRC chassis kit Tony's screws Lunsfords turnbuckles Carbon works shock towers (found to be very strong) B4 81T spur and slipper pads B4 diff gears (pinion dilled to 5mm) Asarashi undertray Silicone nitride diff and thrust balls Kyosho special suspension arm bushings Alloy front brace 10 degree hubs Badhorsie shock socks LAW34 kit (to be fitted) Omen1975 |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
nice mods m8. the alloy stuff is a bit expensive,unless you break lots of them. ive been running the atomic ion kit,and really like it.def run 10degree blocks,and ive got some longer shock shafts on(about 4mm longer on front i think).also run the rear wheelbase as short as i can (think its my driving style !!!) and have done two meetings with the azarashi shell and wings,i cant say enough good things about this shell and wings ,they are a bit pricy,but work fantasticaly well and loads of room inside compared to the normal shell,and look different too !!!
am looking forward to racing this season. |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Any pics of your car with the Arazashi shell? Haven't seen one fitted to the car yet.
|
#16
|
||||
|
||||
IMG_0209.jpg
going to b spraying a new 1 soon for this season. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#18
|
|||
|
|||
your probably better to get the correct size. i know microtech or modeltech (can never remember which) sell individual ceramic balls for about 80p for the small size and about £1 per diff ball. well worth the upgrade.
__________________
4wd - X4TE 2wd - X2C (Mad Rat passed down to son!) Ansmann Racing UK RIP - MicroTech Racing Trader Feedback |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks, looking into them at mo, its http://www.microtechracing.com//prod...ame=DIFF+BALLS
How well do the ceramic diff balls stand up against the likes of the AE balls in terms of durability, ive been running the zx5 now for about 5 or more weeks and the standard diff balls are starting to show their weakness, so hope to get them changed in the next week or two, which would be better?? Thanks |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
The AE are made of high carbon steel of a good quality, somewhat better than the zx5 ones.
Ceramic is a winner though as it is harder and they are 'more round' (really!!) So they last longer and the diff action is smoother. The diffs in my pred are of the ceramic ball type and have never been rebuilt since i got it (it was one of the first 50 or so that were sent out) I am sure that Jim would confirm how smooth they are. You would be better served paying out for ceramics once rather than metal once or twice a season. Also check the prices for the hpi ceramic diff balls for the pro4, they will work as well Last edited by pro4nut; 30-03-2007 at 06:38 PM. Reason: oops |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|