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  #1  
Old 12-06-2012
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Default turnbuckles...

Does anyone else get frustrated by the turnbuckles popping off all the time when you are trying to adjust them...

Is there a fix for this issue? I'm sure I can't be the only one this happens too...

J
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Old 12-06-2012
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for 410 ae bell studs and the long rpm ball cups
for 210 ae sc10 ball studs and cups and hobao turnbuckles
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Old 12-06-2012
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There's a helpful guide on the durago site

Slightly ream the ballcups and lightly grease the thread on the turnbuckles and you shouldnt have any more problems
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Old 12-06-2012
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All you need to do is put an Allen key that fits the ball stud in either end of the cup then adjust as much as you wish, they never pop off when you do this
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Old 12-06-2012
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after building them following this guide its helped stop them popping off.

although it's good to stop you crashing.
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Old 13-06-2012
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I've just converted a car from standard to HD ballcups and tried running a dribble of graphite lube (its actually lock lubricant) into each cup before i threaded the turnbuckle in.
It was possible to run the turnbuckle all the way into the new cup (and cut the thread) just using fingers. The one or two i tested were easy to adjust, no popping off at all. Now the carrier has evaporated/dried, they still adjust fine (no popping), but no longer adjustable by hand! Need a turnbuckle spanner. (as it should do)

For the ones i finally ended up fitting to the car, I also heated the HD cups up (hot water) before i popped them on, they were easier to fit, and once cooled, a much tighter fit than the ones i tried doing with the cups at room temperature. At least, they are significantly harder to pop off.

I'm actually running another car with the Associated/RPM mod. as well.
Will see how the "all the tweaks" car compares to the "give up and use someone else's parts" car, once i've had a chance to them both.
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Old 13-06-2012
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i had this problem on my tlr22 so changed to rose joints.
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Old 13-06-2012
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Thanks chaps

I'll do some mods to the cups next time I take em apart...

Mattr... The graphite lube you mention, is it branded ?

J
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Old 13-06-2012
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No brand that i can remember, but even if it was, its a Swedish brand so won't help you much.......

But it looks like this.

Should be able to get something like it from any DIY store....... well, in theory.
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Old 13-06-2012
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Does that say imbersil at the top LOL

http://www.maplin.co.uk/graphite-lock-lubricant-444745
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Old 13-06-2012
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Didn't pop anything, either the HD or the RPMs. Despite having some bumps....... and managing to snap the rear bulkhead
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Old 04-07-2012
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Finally given up on the Durango ball cups and balls. I've tried ALL the tricks, everything on here, everything on the TD site, a few i thought up on my own. Always end up popping off.

So a switch to the Associated TiNi balls w/RPM long shank cups is in progress.
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Old 04-07-2012
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can't say I had much problem at all with mine after a few adjustments. if they do pop just poke something through them to hold it still
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Old 04-07-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big G View Post
can't say I had much problem at all with mine after a few adjustments. if they do pop just poke something through them to hold it still
Nah, its the landings that do it, adjustment is fine (since adding the lubricant). Even a vigorous bouncy turn has popped one off.

Can't really drive around with a dozen 2.5mm allen keys sticking out of the various joints........
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  #15  
Old 04-07-2012
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Ive not had many problems with mine up until last friday at a club meet, had three different ones pop on the same corner.

Did I see correctly somewhere that Team Durango updated their ball cups with a smaller hole to solve the problem?
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  #16  
Old 04-07-2012
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AFAIK there are standards and HD's, which are the upgrade.
I was running HD's on everything, and they still pop So i swapped to an alternative, that doesn't pop, at all. (So far)

There is a list on here for the RPM/Team Associated update for the 410, and i've worked out parts for the parallel 210 update.

Edit:- Had the 410 parts list on my email, and this works.......

Parts needed:
RPM73392 RPM Long Shank Rod Ends (1 pack = 12 pieces, better get 2 packs)
ASC31288 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x5, Short (1 pack)
ASC31289 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x8, Short (2 packs)
ASC31292 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x8,Long (2 packs)
ASC31290 Ti Nitride Ballstuds M3x10, Short (1 pack)

The fitment would be:
Front Caster Link Outer 5mm Short
Front Caster Link Inner (on Tower) 10mm Short with M3 nylock nut
Steering link outer 8mm Long with M3 nylock nut
Steering link inner 8mm Short with M3 nylock nut Rear link outer 8mm Long with M3 nylock nut
Rear link inner 8mm Short with M3 nylock nut
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