Tamiya TRF503 announced with picture

[Chris]

1560 g ready to run

[Chris]

plastic caster blocks are 10 degrees

[SiR_Dave]

Originally Posted by Chris

plastic caster blocks are 10 degrees

Somebody better update TRF UK then because in the comparison they are calling them 12*

Oh well thanks for the update

[SiR_Dave]

Originally Posted by Chris

1560 g ready to run

That's seriously light there

What do you have to get it there...

[patez]

I saw the picture of the uprights and thought: "Obviously there's less caster on the plastic one"

[SiR_Dave]

Man you guys have good calibrated eyes

[Chris]

Originally Posted by SiR_Dave

That's seriously light there

What do you have to get it there...

• Schumacher mini spikes (yellow)
• Titanium turnbuckles
• PL body

[Aussie Top Force]

Originally Posted by qatmix

Must resist the buy it now button!!! That car looks fantastic.. I really want one, but I just cant justify it.

I know the feeling! My 502 is working fantastic at the moment but..........

[Toon]

Has anyone found any setup sheets for the 503 available, or care to share their own setup?

I tried to find info on the setup used by Lee Martin at last years offroad worlds, but I could only find a series of photos of the 511/503 prototype he used, but some basic setup info can still be taken from the photos - http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/...ico2013092629/.

I was really looking for guidance on shock oil/springs, and gear diff oil weight. Having never used a gear diff in a buggy before, I am just guessing at the diff oil weight from looking at setups for XRay/Schumacher buggies, but that seems to be anywhere from 3000 to 20,000!

[tyreman]

Have a look on Lee's website lmracing.co.uk as he used that car at the euros as well

[patez]

Lookin at the Lee's pictures, it seems the building instructions are the same for atleast the shock tower/arm positions and the rear sway bar... I just used the included oil for rear diff, and 10000 for front diff.. Going to test it out next saturday..

Building it from the manual.. there's certainly some thought in the setup there, its not just "put everything in the middle position". Only thing i'm bit concerned about, is the amount of limiters in the rear for bumpy or big jump track.. 501 had a tendency for grip rolling also. Considering that, maybe 4wd doesn't need that much of travel in the back.

Need to drive it first

[Toon]

Originally Posted by tyreman

Have a look on Lee's website lmracing.co.uk as he used that car at the euros as well

Found his website at http://l-m-racing.co.uk, but unfortunately the only setup sheets on there are for Yokomo and Mugen, there doesn't seem to be anything Tamiya related anymore (not surprising really as he isn't sponsored by them anymore).

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by patez

I saw the picture of the uprights and thought: "Obviously there's less caster on the plastic one"

I think I wrote that page and I even think that's my hand....and whilst it was a long time ago I am fairly sure the original 501 had 10 degree plastic hubs but the DB01 onwards were 12 degree's....

I also never noticed a difference in handling switching from the 511/502 std item to the alloy one, but with my driving that's no proof!

There's some elusive 10 degree alloy ones somewhere out there too though...

[tyreman]

Originally Posted by Toon

Found his website at http://l-m-racing.co.uk, but unfortunately the only setup sheets on there are for Yokomo and Mugen, there doesn't seem to be anything Tamiya related anymore (not surprising really as he isn't sponsored by them anymore).

Try petitrc.com on the setup pages

[SiR_Dave]

Originally Posted by DaveG28

I think I wrote that page and I even think that's my hand....and whilst it was a long time ago I am fairly sure the original 501 had 10 degree plastic hubs but the DB01 onwards were 12 degree's....

I also never noticed a difference in handling switching from the 511/502 std item to the alloy one, but with my driving that's no proof!

There's some elusive 10 degree alloy ones somewhere out there too though...

Thanks for the info Dave I knew I wasn't going crazy

[JLZ78]

I've just collected my kit today. What pinions are you guys running for 5.5 turns?

[pugs]

Originally Posted by JLZ78

I've just collected my kit today. What pinions are you guys running for 5.5 turns?

Try 18 t

[SiR_Dave]

Any of you guys at have our kits... Have you had a chance to run it yet and if so how do you like it..?

[patez]

I just drove few packs. The track was concrete with carpet jumps. First impression was that the rear was very slippery. So i took out the sway bar (because i haven't used it on my 501 either). Then it it was something like i thought how the car would handle with all the little differences over 501/511.. Gear diffs are of course quite different from the ball diffs.. After a few laps I noticed how consistent they are. So i was able to sweep nicely through a slippery but hispeed corner. The length of the car makes it easier too.

The included setup is propably made for higrip, I'm going to take out the limiters from rear and maybe try sway bar without the limiters. The weights in the rear were definitely needed for low grip. 1k in the rear diff and 10k in the front is propably quite extreme diff setting. But its easy to turn in and lots of steering out of the corner. With the gear diffs and extended chassis its quite easy to get hang of it. Its also easy to understand why people prefer so different diff oil weights. Many setups work and you just adapt to the way the car handles..

I managed to pop one ballstud out of the rear hub. I might switch to the almuminum ones. A longer ballstud screw might work also if i drill it through the hub. (Actually i might try this modification first)

Also i used the short motor screws as instructred in the manual. They were too short and my motor was loose after a few laps. And the other screw had stripped some aluminum from the motor. So i switched a bit longer screws. (I suppose most motors would work with about same length).

I feel there's work to do with the setup. But as it is now, its already faster and more _consistent_ than my old 501. 501 was had a little push but with other setups it was hard to drive smoothly out of the corners... Now with 503 i have more steering but its still easier to drive..

[SiR_Dave]

Thanks for the info
So the rear hubs seem to be the week point.. Your the 3rd person I have heard thesis from..
It seems like a good starting point for the gear diff oil is 3000 in the rear and 7000 in the front..