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#1
05-08-2011
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Prepping shells
So whenever I've done this before I've been working in a bodyshop and had everything to my disposal. Now, about to start again
 at home, in my garage, I've sold all my old gear and was just wondering...I know people say they don't bother but I've always lightly scuffed the inside of the shell I'm doing to give the paint a key to stick to with a used piece of scotch brite or something. Does anyone else do this or am I just being to precious about it and wasting my time ? 
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#3
06-08-2011
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I just wash them with washing up liquid and water. Have never scuffed them.
But...I guess it never hurts if you wish to.
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#4
06-08-2011
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Eyup Ian
 I stick to scouring with a coarse wire wool, just be cautious when it comes to chrome though as the effect will diminish if the area which is to be painted with chrome is scoured. Mike P.
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#5
06-08-2011
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Same as Jon, I don't bother. A good wash with warm soapy water does the trick.
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#6
06-08-2011
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Cheers guys. Thanks for the heads up. I think for my own piece of mind I'll carry on doing it. I don't really like chrome ( I know I'm in the minority here ! ) but I figured it would do that. When I used to prep a normal crash helmet I'd use 800 wet n dry, then when it was finished I'd flat the lacquer with 2000 before polish. If I was prepping a helmet for Chroming, the people that did it specified it was prepped with 2000... Bit of a difference. I always had problems with it and that's why I guess I don't like it. I have bought some off Jon though to back candies with on a new Creme Egg job.
Anyway, I've derailed me own thread here  any other thoughts on scuffing greatly appreciated. Thanks for your input though chaps
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#7
06-08-2011
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Never scuffed, it dulls the finish down a little, as long as you was with fairy liquid and rinse with piping hot water, then liquid mask right on top straight after drying, never had an issue.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#8
06-08-2011
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What about cleaning with lighter fluid ? Does anyone use that ? If you're taking some masking off both sides do you ever inadvertently stick your thumb on an unpainted area ? Lighter fluid is so pure, get any little greasy finger prints off.
I think I'll give the no scuff method a try, it must save so much time ! Although I'm not convinced yet.
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#9
06-08-2011
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Funny enough no, I usually wash with warm water and rinse with cold ( I find that the body gets too flimsy applying hot water and I reckon that it would go slightly out of shape if it was kept at a high temperature too long), and when removing the mask I use tweezers to peel up the edges. seems to work a treat.
can't wait to see your finished work
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#10
06-08-2011
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I always use hot soapy and rinse. How ever the other day I painted a kit B44.1 shell. Preped as normal dried (bone dry) Masked and painted it, as I always do. Finished it, went up stairs, made coffee, returned and the paint was lifting I dont mean a little 90% of the shell lifted clean off. So I soaked it in warm water for an hour put it in the dishwasher on hot, as I had nothing to lose at this point. Cleaned the shell perfectly and repeated the whole process. No problem at all the second time.
Whats with that?
__________________
Trader Feedback Here.
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#11
06-08-2011
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I think it depends on both paint type and shell make.
Solvent based paints seem to self etch. I find that if I don't scuff certain makes of shell the paint doesn't stick so well. I usually scuff (600 ish) wash, then wipe out with meths.
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#12
06-08-2011
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I've found the solvent ones come off usually but the rubbery waterbased stuff that I hate sticks like the proverbial to a blanket
600... as in wet and dry, struth that's quite aggressive. I was just going to use scotch brite.
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#13
06-08-2011
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Fair point, it is quite aggressive but I only use a small piece and it looses its 'teeth' quickly .... I reckon scotch brite may be a better idea ... may give it a go myself.
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#14
06-08-2011
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I found the red scotch bright most effective when I was doing the custom painting, the grey was too scratchy. However they bought a special one out for plastics, Copper / gold coloured. It was next to useless on clear coat but idea for shells... unfortunately I sold it all when I sold the rest of my gear so now I'll have to buy a new pack which even if I was this full time would last me about 30 years...
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#15
06-08-2011
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red is coarser than the grey though
 RCS Body Prep is ready...just waiting launch from XF. Helps eliminate static and surface residue etc providing stress free painting, fades, blends etc. Been using it for the last week or two...can I swear? F###ing love it. Works great!!! Miracle grow...jog on!
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#17
07-08-2011
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Quote:
Quote:
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#18
08-08-2011
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What about fine finishing pads from you local automotive paint supplies?
__________________
Trader Feedback Here.
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#19
09-08-2011
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Quote:
It was the residue of soap that made everything flake off, and or flake when you have a crash. Its acting like a release agent.
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