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  #4881  
Old 17-12-2014
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Guys buy the Radio Control Car Racer January edition as ive been give the star letter and youll never guess what pictures it shows
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Last edited by Welshy40; 21-12-2014 at 02:01 PM.
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  #4882  
Old 21-12-2014
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Is anyone good at 3D drawings as ive got an idea on how to resolve the knuckle arms as ive had enough of losing king pins, costing me making the A finals. If yes can you do a drawing of the knuckle arms?
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  #4883  
Old 21-12-2014
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why don't you try adding a small amount of plumbers ptfe tape around the thread, it may help to stop the king pin coming loose.....or a small srew like associated use to stop the hinge pins falling out of the w/bones, you won't be able to tighten the screw but it will stop the king pin from falling out at least.

im using teamline hubs with the 3racing zx5 knuckles, when i cut the kingpin peg/boss down for it to fit into the 'c' hub i made sure it was a snug fit ( think it was .8mm i machined off ) so the shoulder of the king pin can lock up against the knuckle tight, as the shoulder of the kingpin is longer then the width of the bearing it will still turn free as it should. Never had a problem with this always tight when i check.
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  #4884  
Old 21-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob m View Post
why don't you try adding a small amount of plumbers ptfe tape around the thread, it may help to stop the king pin coming loose.....or a small srew like associated use to stop the hinge pins falling out of the w/bones, you won't be able to tighten the screw but it will stop the king pin from falling out at least.

im using teamline hubs with the 3racing zx5 knuckles, when i cut the kingpin peg/boss down for it to fit into the 'c' hub i made sure it was a snug fit ( think it was .8mm i machined off ) so the shoulder of the king pin can lock up against the knuckle tight, as the shoulder of the kingpin is longer then the width of the bearing it will still turn free as it should. Never had a problem with this always tight when i check.
Problem I have is i dont have a machinist close by and do use a teamline hub so would use those knuckles if I could machine down. Issue is my cars stupidly fast so if it starts coming lose its gone, vibration comes into effect as soon as it comes loose.

Ive got an idea on doing a 3d print but with a thread lock nut size hole within the knuckle to fit a thin threadlocked nut in to guarantee it staying in. This is causing me major problems at the moment and need a resolve quickly.
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  #4885  
Old 22-12-2014
alcyon alcyon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welshy40 View Post
Problem I have is i dont have a machinist close by and do use a teamline hub so would use those knuckles if I could machine down. Issue is my cars stupidly fast so if it starts coming lose its gone, vibration comes into effect as soon as it comes loose.

Ive got an idea on doing a 3d print but with a thread lock nut size hole within the knuckle to fit a thin threadlocked nut in to guarantee it staying in. This is causing me major problems at the moment and need a resolve quickly.
I have designed a arm set that is direct fit on ZX-5 C hubs and knuckles. The C hubs are pretty tough if you keep both screws of the knuckles in. Good thing about the ZX-5 knuckles compared to OT-16 is it is 22mm high opposed to 19mm, which means more area to grab, and it uses M3 screw with a bushing at the bottom, which wont come loose and is smooth.
You also have an option to use 3racing alloy knuckles.
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  #4886  
Old 22-12-2014
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Ive already tested this design and used the zxs proto castor blocks (the exact same as the zx5) and ot16 with washers underneath and above and found the hub wasnt in the right position for my style of driving but did suit others, i found it felt a bit off plus if the knuckle was too high / low it also caused me steering issues on high grip surfaces. I like more steering than most and to some is twitch city, I like the back end loose (with grip) and almost all the grip on the front end so due to this need zero bump steer (this makes the car more neutral on high speed cornering) and a 7.5 degree hub which only teamline made. The bearings also made a big difference with the steering.

I'd like to cut away the inerds top and bottom of the threaded sections on the knuckle and do a hex section instead of a circular design and hope a hex nut (a slim one with threadlock) will fit in without the uj joint hitting it. Ive seen this idea used somewhere before but cant quite work out where, maybe tamiya. How slim can i make the plastic before it cant hold the stress?

Of course if it can be done via 3d printing then great and thats another item that will resolve the king pins coming out permanently. One day i will get around to building that diff.
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Last edited by Welshy40; 22-12-2014 at 08:34 AM.
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  #4887  
Old 22-12-2014
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ive tried this idea myself last year when i was having the same problem. The broblem i had with this idea was getting in the knuckle to open the hole up to fit a lock nut, then as you said james finding a lock nut to fit and not hit the uj. also didn't like how much material was left for the lock nut to tighten against, to thin in my opinion. i tried this with plastic knuckkes.

If you want, send some 3racing zx5 knuckles up to me in the new year and i can machine then for you the same as mine. ive had no problems and am running a 6.5t brushless system so up to date on speed.
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  #4888  
Old 22-12-2014
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Maybe its obvious and not the answer but what sort of threadlock are you using, the solution may be as simple as to use something more robust
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  #4889  
Old 22-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob m View Post
ive tried this idea myself last year when i was having the same problem. The broblem i had with this idea was getting in the knuckle to open the hole up to fit a lock nut, then as you said james finding a lock nut to fit and not hit the uj. also didn't like how much material was left for the lock nut to tighten against, to thin in my opinion. i tried this with plastic knuckkes.

If you want, send some 3racing zx5 knuckles up to me in the new year and i can machine then for you the same as mine. ive had no problems and am running a 6.5t brushless system so up to date on speed.
Will do, thanks.
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  #4890  
Old 22-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKS_TRD View Post
Maybe its obvious and not the answer but what sort of threadlock are you using, the solution may be as simple as to use something more robust
I use Associated as its the best ive used to date. Problem is as someone said the other day that its a ballistic missle with a 4.5 in which is where I need to be and should be making the A but this is causing me a big headache, and my issue happens with a slight loosening it vibrates loose quickly. Ive tried all threadlock and glues, plus used screws, spacers instead of king pins but to no avail. Ive now got down to two issues left to resolve and this being my most problematic issue and is driving me crazy.
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Last edited by Welshy40; 22-12-2014 at 06:05 PM.
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  #4891  
Old 22-12-2014
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One other option is a 3mm Stud, sleeve, and a nyloc nut on top of that, studs will always hold more tension than bolts or nuts

Are you having more issues with the plastic knuckle arms than the alloy ones?

You may find the 3Racing knuckles better than the Kyosho because they are machined rather than cast from what I can see
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  #4892  
Old 22-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HKS_TRD View Post
One other option is a 3mm Stud, sleeve, and a nyloc nut on top of that, studs will always hold more tension than bolts or nuts

Are you having more issues with the plastic knuckle arms than the alloy ones?

You may find the 3Racing knuckles better than the Kyosho because they are machined rather than cast from what I can see
Im finding cast ones seem to last longer than the plastic but agree as they are cast the thread doesnt last for long. The plastic seems to flex so the king pin vibrates out, so much trial and error and still no solution.

Im looking at the rpm knuckles and if we could use the same principle but with the inner knuckle section being a washer sunk sized area then it could be dropped in but question is can it be deeper to accomodate a flat head or countersunk screw so a lock nut can be used ontop or underneath the hubs?

Mmm im now contimplating seeing if i can countersink the inner section somehow and just put a countersunk screw through. That way it will miss the uj and with the correct length screw would mean once the nyloc nuts fitted it wont come off.

Maybe a 3d version and that may actaully do it. Still prefer alloy and will test the 3racing ones.
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Last edited by Welshy40; 22-12-2014 at 11:20 PM.
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  #4893  
Old 23-12-2014
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as far as I know, 3D prints are still not as strong because of the material. PLA is too soft and ABS can still strip.
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  #4894  
Old 23-12-2014
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if the 3racing hubs didn't work another idea was drilling and tapping/threading the king pin holes M4, this would recycle all my stripped knuckles and with using a 4mm bolt it would fit in the bearing in the c hubs without a collr and a lot more area for a stronger load on the thread.
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  #4895  
Old 23-12-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rob m View Post
if the 3racing hubs didn't work another idea was drilling and tapping/threading the king pin holes M4, this would recycle all my stripped knuckles and with using a 4mm bolt it would fit in the bearing in the c hubs without a collr and a lot more area for a stronger load on the thread.
Think i will try this will my damaged ones over Christmas seeing as i wont have much to do and see how it goes. Thanks
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Designer of the Lazer ZXRS
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  #4896  
Old 01-01-2015
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To all who have a passon for Lazers happy new year guys. My resolution is to, well I hope to finally put to bed all the gremlins ive had recently and aim to be a real pain in the ar#e to all the new cars out there, my pit bi#ch for some of these events next winter series will be a top 20 UK racer so should make a difference.

Id like to thank Rama aka Alcyon, Fibrelyte, Kamtec, Racer mag, Niclear RC aka Dave Belsten and Answer Rc for all their support plus a big thanks to everyone else here who have helped me get to where I am now. I never thought so many people would have as much passion for these buggies as I do and aim to keep racing at the highest level for the next 20 years. Iso watch out as i aim to be in your neighbourhood within ten years.
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Designer of the Lazer ZXRS

Last edited by Welshy40; 01-01-2015 at 12:40 AM.
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  #4897  
Old 01-01-2015
Lowry Lowry is offline
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Default Rough value of used LAW 12

Hi,

I just restored a Lazer ZX-R Mk II (short Motor plate, front and rear shock stay with 6 holes).

I also got a slightly used complete LAW 12 set (Hyper Clutch).

Can anybody give me a rough hint of what this LAW 12 is worth? Does not have to be an exact number, just is it more in the 10 € area or more in the 40 € area?

Thanks and happy new year to everyone

Ralf
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  #4898  
Old 01-01-2015
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You can still buy the hyper clutch brand new from some countries for under or up to £50 so unsure on what youd want for it. I need it specifically for one part so what would you be after £25 which includes p&p?
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  #4899  
Old 02-01-2015
Lowry Lowry is offline
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Default Front knuckles with M4 thread

Hi Welshy,
thanks for the hint with the LAW-12. I checked ebay in US and UK but did not know that it is still available. Anyway, I got now a good indication and will soon post it for sale.

Regarding the front knuckles:
I agree that using M4 threads with Pins could help. I can imagine the regular Pins becoming loose because of the friction between the hexagonal-head of the pin and the C-Hub.
Now if you use "just" Pins (no hexagonal top area) there should be less friction between pin and c-hub. Hence less danger of the pin becoming loose.

Attached some pics of what I tried some years ago to re-use my front knuckles with stripped down M3-threads.

When cutting the M4 thread in the knuckles I would recommend not to use all three "cutters"/ "drillers". If you only use the first and the second one of a set-of-three then the Pins will have more friction in the thread.

Just my 2 Cents

Cheers

Ralf
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File Type: jpg Lazer M4 front knuckle.JPG (391.1 KB, 21 views)
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  #4900  
Old 02-01-2015
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Default knuckles

im glad that works then, never got round to trying it, i was thinking of using the m4 screws that are used for fastening the top deck down with.
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