Kyosho RB6 thread

[Shimmy]

What springs are people using?

Just having a look around, the AE springs look to be decent value.
I'd love to stick with the K brand stuff but at $22 a pair vs $25 a set, it's a bit hard to justify.

The Losi one's looked alright too.

Schumacher looks like they have a smaller spring cup and is more expensive (but still cheaper than Kyosho).

Not a fan of Durango quality but their springs should be alright.

Then theres the Avid's.

[bigred5765]

we have always ran losi

[Shimmy]

Cool, the "low frequency" sets?

Just had a look on a couple of spring charts, the losi's hardest is about the kyosho's softest.

So in the real world are the Kyosho's all hard springs?

[bigred5765]

that's not right shimmy in fact theres very little between them, what made you think that losi hardest was kyosho's softest?
http://imageshack.us/a/img856/765/3tgf.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img856/765/3tgf.jpg

[Shimmy]

Oh ok,

I was going by http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/BigBorevsSmallBore/Chart.pdf

The rears are slightly heavier but the fronts seem a quite a bit heavier.

Comparing to the numbers on the Amain website of the spring sets.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1451_1784/products_id/259976/n/Team-Losi-Racing-Low-Frequency-Front-Spring-Set-4-pair
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_25_1451_1784/products_id/259977/n/Team-Losi-Racing-Low-Frequency-Rear-Spring-Set-5-pair

But then Losi claim .05 lbs difference between their springs, and the chart you posted suggests much larger differences.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111137

[bigred5765]

the last list you posted is a link to is small bore
and yes losi springs are 0.5lb or less between and your mixing up fronts and rears heres the list for bb shocks

[rc boy]

The ones on A main hobbies arnt the standard big bore springs they are the low frequency set brought out to get softer springs if i remember correctly

[Shimmy]

The ones on A main hobbies arnt the standard big bore springs they are the low frequency set brought out to get softer springs if i remember correctly

Ah, ok.
So any other hobbyshop have the normal ones?

Also, I have got my RB6 now and just got home from racing it.
I must say I am quite happy with it.
Was way undergeared (31/76 in 17.5 blinky, have 66t on the way) but was keen to get it out on the track.
Felt very consistent and easy to manage and I didn't even fiddle with anything (same setup as the person I bought it off had on it).

Also, whats with the plastic shim bit that goes between the pivot block and chassis? (front).
And the clip that goes around the outdrive after the gearbox has been assembled?

[adam_u]

The plastic shim is a roll centre adjustment I think, and the white clip is a cover to stop any crap going into the thrust race.

To adjust diff all you need to do is pop that little cover off (just rotate it round don't remove completely) then stick a slim pokey device of your choosing through the hole and diff screw and turn the opposite wheel to your liking :thumbsup:

[rc boy]

Ah, ok.
So any other hobbyshop have the normal ones ?

I would assume so just ask at the shop for std bigbore springs or just look at the spring weights online

Cheers matty

[Shimmy]

Cool, thanks fellas.

So the plastic shim would have a similar effect to raising the inner ball stud (I'm assuming slightly different as the angle of the arms would be different, not just the camber link)?

Awesome, thats a nice way to adjust the diff, no more poping a ball cup and getting in there with a screw driver.
Mine doesn't have the clip in place though.
I'm assuming most probably run without them anyway, can imagine it could be a pain to get on and off.


Hmm, I had a look on a couple of other sites, could not find any other Losi 22 springs, only the low frequency ones.

Does anyone run the Avid ones?
Look good and being bare steel is kinda good (no coating to change their rates etc...) but seems their steps between springs are quite large.

[rc boy]

http://www.jemodels.com/electric-models?page=shop.browse&category_id=1340

If you go half way down the springs are all there that you need with rates

[Shimmy]

Hey fellas, couple more questions...

My RB6 has a lot of play in the arms so I'm swapping them over for the new spares that came with it.

But I noticed that the spare front arms are shorter than what was originally on it.
Hate to bring the topic up again but are the RB6 fronts longer or shorter?

Is it a wise idea to use alluminium spacers with the alluminium hubs?


Edit:
I ended up drilling a small hole in each rear arm, to put a grub screw in to hold the hinge pin (as the new arms didn't make much difference), mainly out of curiosity.
One side seemed a little better but the other didnt really change at all.
I'm assuming the slop is in the hangers, not the arms.
I'll have to get the Exotec hangers soon.

[Neil Skull]

Wishbone choice is big! often people use some old ones from RB5 or even Lazer simply as that's what they had in the box as a spare.

To Make it easy keep to the standard arms for the RB6 they work very well, We have new Aluminium Hangers in stock now and all the big shops should have by now!

This is a list of all the new options parts that just arrived.
K.UMW704-0REAR HUB CARRIER V2 RB5/RB6/ZX5/RT/SC (0) ALU-GUN METAL
K.UMW704-02REAR ALU HUB CARRIER BEARING COLLAR SET
K.UMW704-05REAR HUB CARRIER V2 RB5/RB6/ZX5/RT/SC (0.5) ALU-GUN METAL
K.UMW705SUSPENSION HOLDER RB6 (RF) ALUMINIUM - GUN METAL
K.UMW705-01SUSPENSION BUSH SET FOR UMW705
K.UMW706SUSPENSION HOLDER RB6 (RR-RWD) ALUMINIUM - GUN METAL
K.UMW707SUSPENSION HOLDER RB6 (RR-MID) ALUMINIUM - GUN METAL
K.UMW708REAR STABILIZER SET RB6 (MID)
K.UMW708-01STABILIZER LINK SET RB6 MID (UMW708)
K.UMW708-02P.O.M FLANGE BALL 5.8MM (4)
K.UMW708-11ANTI-ROLL BAR (1.1) RB6 MID - PINK
K.UMW708-12ANTI-ROLL BAR (1.2) RB6 MID - RED
K.UMW708-13ANTI-ROLL BAR (1.3) RB6 MID - ORANGE
K.UMW708-14ANTI-ROLL BAR (1.4) RB6 MID - YELLOW

[Neil Skull]

Coming soon the Chassis protector Sheets.
UMW709 Price TBC! we guess approx. £11-£16

[Shimmy]

How much slop do these usually have?
Trying to figure out if mine is worn but cant see it or if they usually have a bit of slop.

[Kurtje]

Hello

I've got a question about the electronics for the RB6 buggy.
Does the Speed Passion Reventon Pro fits when it's build mid motor and used with saddles? The esc comes just in front of the motor.

The most setups I see is with the R10 Pro from Orion just in front of the motor.

Do you need to use a fan on these ESC on the RB6? Because from what I see there is very little space...

[paulj]

Hello

I've got a question about the electronics for the RB6 buggy.
Does the Speed Passion Reventon Pro fits when it's build mid motor and used with saddles? The esc comes just in front of the motor.

The most setups I see is with the R10 Pro from Orion just in front of the motor.

Do you need to use a fan on these ESC on the RB6? Because from what I see there is very little space...

I can't tell you for sure about the fit of the Reventon Pro in the RB6 with saddles as I've never used saddles in my own RB6 - shorty LiPo all the way for me.

The footprint of the R10 and Reventon are very close so it 'should' fit but may need a little work with a dremel.

As for a fan I've seen people have thermal cut out problems on high grip tracks with 7.5T and lower motors in 2wd as with anything the smoother you are the more chance you have of not needing the fan. What surface are you racing on?

[Kurtje]

Mistake :)

[Andywoods]

I use a reventon pro in my rb6 it fits ok with saddles in the fwd position

[Kurtje]

Thank you! Do you have any pics?

[matt76]

Just needs tyres, fitted with Tekin rs pro :thumbsup:

[PaulRotheram]

Thought I'd put this up seeing as I've joined the club...


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/paulrotheram/969395_10153100117750065_1546575426_n_zpse9f0c3fb. jpg

[Shimmy]

Well I just fitted the new Kyo hangers with the adjustable inserts and am really glad I bought them.

Excellent fitting and zero slop.
And to think I was going to buy the Exotec ones (just before Kyo anounced these ones), so glad I got these, and not to mention much cheaper by the time you take into account the adjustability of them.

Also got an Exotex Alloy diff nut to fit, will get around to it eventually.

[danmurphy]

Can anyone tell me which kyosho small bore dampers are suitable for the rb6? Are w5194v for the front and w5196v for the rear correct? I noticed there's a 38mm set and a 42mm set for the rear?

[InsideLineModels]

Can anyone tell me which kyosho small bore dampers are suitable for the rb6? Are w5194v for the front and w5196v for the rear correct? I noticed there's a 38mm set and a 42mm set for the rear?

5196 and 5194 are correct for any of the latest zx5, rb5 and rb6 cars. The other option is 5195 but these were the longer rear versions used on older models.

Kev

[danmurphy]

Thanks :thumbsup:

[paulj]

Hi Kev, have you tested the rear ARB with the stock RB6 gullwing arms yet? How does it differ from using the flat RB5 rear arms?

Cheers, Paul

[InsideLineModels]

Hi Kev, have you tested the rear ARB with the stock RB6 gullwing arms yet? How does it differ from using the flat RB5 rear arms?

Cheers, Paul

Hi Paul,

No, not yet. I've tried it with the RB5/ZX5 rear arms outside and found it kept the rear too flat. I think it could be good on smooth high grip indoor tracks, but again, I haven't had chance to try it yet.

I think it will have a beneficial effect if you are running the RB6 arms to stop them collapsing, but on the RB5 arms, the car stays much flatter anyway.

Sorry, I can't help much more at the moment.

Kev

[Chris-S]

Shorty fitted:
http://imageshack.us/a/img109/650/28c3.jpg

[Oops]

Shorty ready too :thumbsup:
http://img4.hostingpics.net/pics/56758920130917092359RichtoneHDR.jpg

[Hans Wynants]

hello Guy's , i can finnaly post some pics of my RB-6 , just finished today.

http://www.mijnalbum.be/Foto-SDLCQEZX.jpg

http://www.mijnalbum.be/Foto-PUXTLK4I.jpg

http://www.mijnalbum.be/Foto-4LK6NNGF.jpg


grts Hans from Belgium

[Chris-S]

Rudebits lipo tray fitted, have moved the receiver to the back and fitted a full size servo. Found the low profile orion I was using felt a bit vague when the grip came up, full size servo is much better.

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/9407/u8rc.jpg

[Kurtje]

My RB6 is finally finished :)

Got the Yaiba MM upgrades and the Exotek alu diff nut and shock posts.
Also got the Rudebits shorty lipo tray.
Hope to test him very soon!

https://scontent-a-cdg.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/1380090_10202235791760598_455134711_n.jpg

[Ross]

Guys I'm looking at selling my DB1 and getting the RB6. What upgrades are required, ie the Ali front or rear bulk head, Ali steering posts, what's a must have when building it.

Cheers
Ross

[Chris-S]

Guys I'm looking at selling my DB1 and getting the RB6. What upgrades are required, ie the Ali front or rear bulk head, Ali steering posts, what's a must have when building it.

Cheers
Ross

-Ali steering rack (some have been ok with the plastic one, others havent)
-Losi ball studs for the front (TLR6024) and rear (TLR6023) bulkheads, this stops the threads being pulled out.
-If you are running shorty lipo's, the Rudebits tray makes fitting the electrics a bit easier and stops the battery floating about.


For Silverstone and outdoors, I would recommend the straight rear wishbones. You can use the RB6 outer hingepin with 2 2mm spacers at either end.

PM me your email address and I will send across my Silverstone setup.

[RogerM]

PM me an e-mail address and I'll send you a killer outdoor / all condition (other than Silverstone's MEGA grip) astro setup too.

The Losi ball studs are one way of doing it but using the longer Kyosho ball studs works just as well.

Make sure you put M3x5mm grub screws in all the unsued camber link holes to make those parts bullet proof.

I think most people who have tried 4x1.3mm shock pistons have kept them in, make a great improvement to the cars balance of grip. Can either block/melt a hole closed in the stock pistons (as I and Chris have done respectively) or brill some fresh from Kyosho blanks / fit AVID or GHEA straight pistons. DON'T GO TAPPERED IN THE RB6!!

Car is super strong and once dialed in to you needs very little tinkering to make it good everywhere.

No idea why some people are struggling for rear end traction, guessing it has to be a setup issue as people running my setup make very very little changes soaking wet to high grip dry.

If you want to buy any aluminium hing pin holders go for the later ones that have the inserts, if you can only aford one make it the forward one as that is the most useful for tuning.

Enjoy :D

[danmurphy]

Why not tapered pistons Roger? I haven't tried them but am currently on small bores which I like since the piston return feels faster and the car more agile.

[Ross]

-Ali steering rack (some have been ok with the plastic one, others havent)
-Losi ball studs for the front (TLR6024) and rear (TLR6023) bulkheads, this stops the threads being pulled out.
-If you are running shorty lipo's, the Rudebits tray makes fitting the electrics a bit easier and stops the battery floating about.


For Silverstone and outdoors, I would recommend the straight rear wishbones. You can use the RB6 outer hingepin with 2 2mm spacers at either end.

PM me your email address and I will send across my Silverstone setup.

PM me an e-mail address and I'll send you a killer outdoor / all condition (other than Silverstone's MEGA grip) astro setup too.

The Losi ball studs are one way of doing it but using the longer Kyosho ball studs works just as well.

Make sure you put M3x5mm grub screws in all the unsued camber link holes to make those parts bullet proof.

I think most people who have tried 4x1.3mm shock pistons have kept them in, make a great improvement to the cars balance of grip. Can either block/melt a hole closed in the stock pistons (as I and Chris have done respectively) or brill some fresh from Kyosho blanks / fit AVID or GHEA straight pistons. DON'T GO TAPPERED IN THE RB6!!

Car is super strong and once dialed in to you needs very little tinkering to make it good everywhere.

No idea why some people are struggling for rear end traction, guessing it has to be a setup issue as people running my setup make very very little changes soaking wet to high grip dry.

If you want to buy any aluminium hing pin holders go for the later ones that have the inserts, if you can only aford one make it the forward one as that is the most useful for tuning.

Enjoy :D


Thanks guys, I'm liking the look of that, I don't need all the options, just the steering rack :).

Do kyosho do there own version or is the exotec the one to get.

[InsideLineModels]

Thanks guys, I'm liking the look of that, I don't need all the options, just the steering rack :).

Do kyosho do there own version or is the exotec the one to get.

UMW701 for the kyosho version Ross :)

[Ross]

UMW701 for the kyosho version Ross :)

Thanks Kev :thumbsup:

[bigt]

Or save a tenner an get the yaiba one from your favourite lhs

[RogerM]

Why not tapered pistons Roger? I haven't tried them but am currently on small bores which I like since the piston return feels faster and the car more agile.

The simple answer is that the RB6 is already so reactive that IMHO the last thing it needs is encouraging to react even faster.

Only place where I personally think that I might get a benefit out of the small bores is Silverstone on their freakishly high grip surface, I can't bring myself to go for a complete set of shocks to use only 6 or so times a year so I'm happy to stick with the big bores.

Everywhere else I actively disliked the car on the small bores, any (very) slight decrease in laptime was negated many times over by the errors that crept in, quite often found I had to get back out of the throttle on the small bores as the car was unstable.
I can't get the car to generate such balanced grip in the wet with the small bores either, the big bores really seem to tame the weight transfer and make the car more predictable (probably why Kyosho specify them)

Possibly a combination of my driving style and the fact that I've done so much testing with big bores now (26 different pistons in my pit box) but I honestly believe that for all but the "superstars" like Kev the kit big bores with a change to 4x1.3 pistons will be faster over the 5mins.

Hope that explaination helps

[danmurphy]

Ok thanks Roger :)

I'm also looking to try the gear diff in the RB6. Can anyone tell me which parts I need for this? Is it the SC Gear diff?

[bigt]

I got my gear diff from tsr on fleabay I asked nicely and it was marked $15gift

[danmurphy]

I got my gear diff from tsr on fleabay I asked nicely and it was marked $15gift

:thumbsup:

[Oops]

Side pods mod :
http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/445153rb6sidepods.jpg

[Andyp]

Side pods mod :
http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/445153rb6sidepods.jpg

Is this for cosmetic purpose ? ... It looks quiet tidy

Or is it to stiffen the side pods up? ... It seem asif it would hardly work as you have cut quiet large cut outs out for the switch and caps.

[Oops]

it's just cosmetic and it's the first try. I have to adjust few things.

it's 0.7mm lexan sheet with carbon sticker ... not enough to make the pods stiffer.

the first idea was to hide the switch and capacitor wires.

[losichris]

Why not tapered pistons Roger? I haven't tried them but am currently on small bores which I like since the piston return feels faster and the car more agile.

Could you tell me what piston/spring combo your using for the small bores?

[danmurphy]

Could you tell me what piston/spring combo your using for the small bores?

I'm using 3b pistons all round with silver front springs 500cst oil, yellow rear springs and 300cst. I also run it 50cst lighter all round in lower grip conditions.

[losichris]

I'm using 3b pistons all round with silver front springs 500cst oil, yellow rear springs and 300cst. I also run it 50cst lighter all round in lower grip conditions.

Thanks

[RogerM]

I personally don't run small bores anywhere now, just don't like how the car feels on them at all.

[Gavin Collingwood]

Chris don't bother with small bore. Big bores are superb

[tomtom]

Try them at least, with flat arms, especially good on carpet.

[RudeTony]

Gents - small bore shocks are quicker and proven by the clock many times over.
The big difference is the reaction time.
Now at the top level of racing this may be needed and at lower levels it can be argued that big bores are safer therefore a cleaner run....safer is slower though!!

Everyone has different styles of driving and therefore I suggest you all try both rather than just listening to me, him or anyone else
3b all round with silver spring front and yellow or dark yellow rear
Inside on front wishbone front and rear
550 Kyosho oil front with 300 Kyosho oil rear
Dialled!!

:)

[Kyosho]

Hi
I purchased the Rb6 second hand last year and left it in the box till last sunday! (house move etc)

I broke the wing on Sunday and Im not impressed with the previous spray job, what shells and wings are everyone currently using please?

I also saw alot of yaiba bits on some is that necessary?



Thankyou Richy

[bigt]

The penguins shells are great for mid motor and the car feels looser on high grip with a jc finnisher on waiting on trying a silencer and the r1 wings from rudebits are good hth

[RogerM]

+1 on the Penguin shell, goes right back to the tower and makes for a slightly less aggressive car than the kit shell.

[Kyosho]

Thankyou! One penguine shell ordered:thumbsup:

[Ross]

Has any one used one of the Proline phantom shells for the RB6. I was wondering what the fit was like as the same shell fits the Tamiya as we'll.

Also what the idea of the fin on the rear.

[Andyp]

I'm not sure they are available over here yet, I see CML have them listed but I haven seen them pop up in any of the usuall shops yet.

I got one of the tamiya shells for my rb6 and the fit is good so I guess the proline shell should be ok

I guess the fin would be some sort of aerodynamic aid, maybe to make it more stable in the air????

[Ross]

I'm not sure they are available over here yet, I see CML have them listed but I haven seen them pop up in any of the usuall shops yet.

I got one of the tamiya shells for my rb6 and the fit is good so I guess the proline shell should be ok

I guess the fin would be some sort of aerodynamic aid, maybe to make it more stable in the air????

I see that CML list them but didn't try to buy one. I was looking at the Tamiya she'll, I quite like it I may go with that if Proline isn't available.

[bomber]

Elliot boots runs one however that doesn't mean there available to everyone atm

[NitroArgi]

They are available alright...just received two for next season

[Andyp]

They are available alright...just received two for next season

From the UK? I see A main had them, they are also on EBay but I wasn't in that much of a hurry to have to get one from overseas...

[NitroArgi]

No not from UK...I am located in Greece and I ask a rc store here to get me a couple of those.

I think they got them from Hoeco, Hupo's company in Austria, which is also a main Proline dealer

[Oops]

Hi Gents,

Got my Avid 4x1.3 pistons today.
I'm looking for a carpet setup with shorty and kit rear arms for RB6 please.

thanks a lot :thumbsup:

[Oops]

Hi Gents,

Got my Avid 4x1.3 pistons today.
I'm looking for a carpet setup with shorty and kit rear arms for RB6 please.

thanks a lot :thumbsup:

Found an high grip astro track setup.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setuprb6/RB6_ChrisSlevin_Silverstone201310.pdf

Not for carpet track but i will try it

[RogerM]

Put the straight arms on mate, well worth doing!

[Gayo]

I second that Oops, use the flat arms. I can give you a set if you don't have any, PM me mate!

[Oops]

Thanks a lot for replies !

I know flat arms are really better on high grip, but tbh each time i want to order a set i don't know what is the good reference to take :)

Gayo, thanks mate, i'll drop you an MP

[tomtom]

Gayo's car was awesome on Sunday, flat wishbones for sure Julien.

You can use any sets besides the first RB5 ones, only the front are different between SP, SP2 and WC (um521/um566 if I'm right).

You'll need short ballcups on shocks ends too.

[InsideLineModels]

Just to help these are the part numbers you can use to get the correct flat rear wishbones for the RB6 (you will need 2 packs)

UM566 (RB5 Worlds)
UM521-1 (RB5 SP2?)
LA272 (Lazer ZX5 SP2)

Hope this helps
Kev

[Oops]

thank you :thumbsup:
that's clear for me now !

[Kurtje]

Sorry for the strange question but why do you need 2 packs of these arms?
Are there any changes needed to install them?

[sime46]

2 packs needed because you only get 1 rear in each pack. Shock ball end needs to be a shorter one from what I read. Gonna test fit some on mine today.

[RogerM]

Sorry for the strange question but why do you need 2 packs of these arms?
Are there any changes needed to install them?

Yes, you need 2 packs as stated as it is 1 front and 1 rear arm per pack. If you run the Lazer as a 4wd get 2 x LA272 as you can use the front arms on that.
Otherwise I'd suggest going for UM521 (not UM521-1 as that only has the 1 shock mounting hole on the non-loop side) as this gives you a pair of RB5 front wishbones which I have used on the RB6 in combination with the relevant front hinge pin mount (sorry can't remember the number as so long since I bought one), this can calm some of the agression out of the RB6 which is helpful in some situations.

Mods to fit:- yes, you either have to use the RB5 outer hinge pins along with the little M2.6 screws to capture them OR you can do what most do and drill / ream the smaller hole out to 3mm and use the RB6 hunge pins with 2mm of plastic washers either side between the wishbone edge and the nuts.
Additionally you will need to use 2x1mm spacers for wheelbase adjustment (come with the arms) and obviously remove the 2mm spacer from in front of the wishbone on the inner hinge pin.

Mounting them:- choices as can go on either way around BUT most people put them on so the loop is rear facing as this gives the best wheelbase range (the other way is 3.5mm different). If you do this then need to mount the shock eyelet OUTSIDE the loop with another eyelet ball / spacers inside the loop, this will need a longer screw of course.

The EXTRA hole :- a lot of people drill another hole 4mm inside the existing inner one, this gives a more upright shock that really helps the car on our high grip tracks. this extra hole is "just" inside the loop, you may need to choose you spacers for inside the loop carefully or reduce their size a little.
If you do drill this EXTRA hole then please make sure that you put a screw through the original outer hole in the wishbone along with another eyelet ball/spacer to strength the wishbone as drilling the extra hole does stress the part a little higher.

Shock eyelets :- as a rule of thumb use the kit "LONG" eyelets with the kit arms, "Medium" eyelets when using the 2 standard holes in the straight wishbones and "short" eyelets when using the drilled EXTRA hole.

With the big bores try either kit pistons / 400cst oil / red spring on the inside hole or if using the EXTRA hole a Losi Pink spring with 350cst oil is a good place to start. Even better try a 4x1.3 piston with 50cst lower oil grade.
With small bores I believe most run the 3B piston and similar oils to stated above with either a dark yellow or yellow spring respectively.

Hope that gives you all you need to know.

[Kurtje]

wow thank you very much for the information!!!

[NitroArgi]

Hi Roger,

Do you happen to have a photo of the 521 rear arms fitted with the extra hole?

[danmurphy]

Does anyone know if the chassis protective tape (UMW709) comes precut for the screw holes?

[PaulRotheram]

Not going all feminine are you Dan?! or as I like to say.. all Gaz Hill.

[danmurphy]

Not going all feminine are you Dan?! or as I like to say.. all Gaz Hill.

Ha! Just want to keep my new chassis like new ;-)

[Kyosho]

Does anyone know if the chassis protective tape (UMW709) comes precut for the screw holes?


My friend made me some carbon fibre ones with holes in.
they look great too only £7.50 inc postage I was well chuffed.

[danmurphy]

My friend made me some carbon fibre ones with holes in.
they look great too only £7.50 inc postage I was well chuffed.

Are they still available?

[Kurtje]

Can you guys give me some hints to gain some more steering?
On our indoor carpet track I need some more steering at higher speeds...

[PaulRotheram]

Longer wheelbase will give more steering at higher speeds.

More washers on the front inside camber link for more mid and exit steering - you will loose some initial steering doing this though.

Swap the spindle washers on the front end to lower it, this will give more overall steering.


Posting your base setup will help others to help you more accurately though.

[RichyUK]

Swap the spindle washers on the front end to lower it, this will give more overall steering .

Do you mean dropping the hub within the c hub by putting the thicker washer on top?

[PaulRotheram]

Yep, apologies, should of explained it better!

[Kurtje]

Thank you very much!

I've got +- the base setup from Roger Mills on it.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setuprb6/RB6_RogerMills_BaseAstrotrufSetup2012.pdf

So lowering the front axle height will give more overall steering?

[PaulRotheram]

Yeah, but this may also make the car a little snatchy, any of the above ive suggested will help.

Looking at that setup both washers are on the bottom, so even moving to the next setting up would help.
Which would be 1mm on the bottom, .5mm on the top..

Then after that .5mm on the bottom and 1mm on the top for further steering,

Then both washers on the top for uber steering.

[Kurtje]

Thank you very much Paul!
I'll gonna try that on Friday!

Yes both washers are on the bottem now.

I've already shortened the front link (hub/bulkhead) and used the outside hole (bulkhead) but this had not much effect.

I'll post the results after Friday over here!

[PaulRotheram]

A shorter front link will make the car roll less and more reactive initially, which wont give more overall steering, using the middle link will give more overall, with the side effect of the front end rolling and diving more. Its a preference of what you wish to put up with :)

[Kurtje]

Thank you Paul!

[RichyUK]

Yep, apologies, should of explained it better!

cheers, i'll give that a try (not that im struggling for steering, but good to try things :) )

[Kurtje]

Today was testday with the RB6 :)

Followed the advice from Paul and the steering was very good!!!
Thank you!

[PaulRotheram]

Glad it worked out for you!! :thumbsup:

[Kyosho]

Hi
What motors and gears is everyone using please?

[Ross]

Hi
What motors and gears is everyone using please?

I'm using the kit spur,24T pinion and an 8.5 motor at Silverstone.

[cornishboy176]

10.5t Kit spur and 29 pinion
7.5t Kit spur and 26/27 pinion

[RogerM]

26/27 with Orion 7.5 most places, occassionally 28/29 with 8.5 or 24/25 with 6.5

[SimonW]

24 on an SP, V3 plenty of throttle feel if boost and angle right on ESC and very fast

[Kyosho]

Thanks guys, ive currently got the 7.5 motor but a 21pinion but feel it lacks punch.

[RogerM]

In the imortal words of Glyn Ward of BRM fame "gear et tup lad" ;)

[Rcnoob]

21t on a flux 6.5t stock spur, seems perfect to me good punch delivered smoothly, also very quiet XD

[Neil Skull]

Gearing really depends on the track and the ESC settings.
If you run without loads of boost and turbo then we normally run a bigger pinion.
a 6.5 using a 21 pinion will give a different feel to 7.5. If i was using 6.5 i would likley go smaller on pinion.
The only way to be sure is to make sure you always have in your box range of pinions and try them for the track and motor you are running.
I normally start on 23 pinion for most models and go from there.

[RudeTony]

Gearing really depends on the track and the ESC settings.
If you run without loads of boost and turbo then we normally run a bigger pinion.
a 6.5 using a 21 pinion will give a different feel to 7.5. If i was using 6.5 i would likley go smaller on pinion.
The only way to be sure is to make sure you always have in your box range of pinions and try them for the track and motor you are running.
I normally start on 23 pinion for most models and go from there.

You are under geared Neil - Roger is very close to what it should be or lets say what I run! - LOL :)
With ALL Orion equipment - 6.5 = 24/25 - 7.5 = 27/28 - 8.5 = 29/30 but with ALL Orion Lipos etc- anything else might be different

[Kyosho]

Thanks guys I have ordered a 26 and 27 pinion:thumbsup:

[cornishboy176]

If you can't beat them, Join them http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t413/polly176/F072295C-C67E-4B06-9D34-16349548ED6F.jpg
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t413/polly176/C15A77B0-B912-4134-B1CF-95D119FF492D.jpg

[PaulRotheram]

You are under geared Neil - Roger is very close to what it should be or lets say what I run! - LOL :)
With ALL Orion equipment - 6.5 = 24/25 - 7.5 = 27/28 - 8.5 = 29/30 but with ALL Orion Lipos etc- anything else might be different

It definitely is different, last week i thermalled out, the first time its ever happened to me using the above gearing advice.

I run full LRP equipment and it runs better on lower gearing.

Using an LRP Flow, LRP x20 7.5 and LRP shorties, ive found 22/76 to be an ideal ratio

LRP motors are very powerful, so maybe the orions need gearing up to get more out of them?

[PaulRotheram]

If you can't beat them, Join them http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t413/polly176/F072295C-C67E-4B06-9D34-16349548ED6F.jpg
http://i1058.photobucket.com/albums/t413/polly176/C15A77B0-B912-4134-B1CF-95D119FF492D.jpg

Nice install.

You could turn the ESC around and shorten the wires.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/paulrotheram/1546177_10153644844695065_1209195119_n_zps6b69296a .jpg

[NitroArgi]

Hello guys...

Quick question....the wider the rear of the RB6 is the better can soak up bumps and jumps right? The narrow car is more prone to unsettle in bumps/landings etc...right?

[cornishboy176]

Nice install.

You could turn the ESC around and shorten the wires.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/paulrotheram/1546177_10153644844695065_1209195119_n_zps6b69296a .jpg

I did look at that but the wires are going the wrong way round between motor and esc and would be twisted (A B C),I know, I'm fussy,

[RogerM]

Hello guys...

Quick question....the wider the rear of the RB6 is the better can soak up bumps and jumps right? The narrow car is more prone to unsettle in bumps/landings etc...right?

Won't make much difference to that, it's all about how it positions the roll centre. If your sliding the rear around a lot then the wider will be more stable and less likely to bite when it recovers grip though.

[NitroArgi]

Hey Roger...

My problem is not traction at all. Our new carpet layout has a part of the track that I have to work on. It is right after a 180 right turn that I hit some bumps the car gets really upset and as soon as the wheels hit the ground I meet another single jump that send me to a wall ride.

The car is fast there but not safe and I tried to give some more pack in the rear, changed to fewer holes but it was more or less the same. Try some weight in the rear as well but again the difference was minimum.

Maybe the C/C in combo is too narrow and I was thinking if I ake the rear end wider mayber it will help the car calm down faster before hiting the single :confused:

[Karting]

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/samdimelow/rc%20car/6AD94EF4-E0A8-49DD-86C3-61F11EE17B73_zpsigxaktsw.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/user/samdimelow/media/rc%20car/6AD94EF4-E0A8-49DD-86C3-61F11EE17B73_zpsigxaktsw.jpg.html)

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d106/samdimelow/rc%20car/8887FDB2-EBEA-4CB2-97A2-5D0ED4E68A3B_zpsrwrf4zid.jpg (http://s34.photobucket.com/user/samdimelow/media/rc%20car/8887FDB2-EBEA-4CB2-97A2-5D0ED4E68A3B_zpsrwrf4zid.jpg.html)

[slow coach]

what battery layout seems to be best for low grip tracks

[Kyosho]

What springs are people using for the big bores please, prefereably for astro and carpet

[kriske]

What springs are people using for the big bores please, prefereably for astro and carpet


Kyosho: BB Shock Springs (Front/Super Hard/Orange)

BB Shock Springs (Rear/Soft/Pink)
BB Shock Springs (Rear/Medium Soft/White)
BB Shock Springs (Rear/Medium/Gold)

[RogerM]

Normally run X-gear yellow on the front and with the flal arms X-gear red (kit) on the original inside hole or Losi Pink in an extra drilled hole inside the inside most standard hole at the standard spacing.

In very slippery conditions I might go to X-gear gold / Losi Yellow rear springs respectively, going too soft on the springs actually robs the car of grip as the load is absorbed by the suspension rather than pushing the tires into the surface.

[mrroy76]

Hi im building a new RB6 for the 2014 season and with new type of electronics VIPER i couldnt get it like i had last year with orion. VIPER esc is a bit higher. I also ran sadle packs last year, but now im going for the shorty.

I also going for a lot of EXOTEK bling so we will see how those works. (im still waiting for shock caps, spring adjusters and steering rack)

Has anyone else tried a battery setup like i am doing now? I have seen some similar bur with the battery all the way back and the esc in front.

I dont think it will make any balancing problems. The only thing that im worried about is that i cant get it all the way down to the chassi plate. Its about 2-3 mm clearing under it. So if this will impact the balance sideways is unknown due to little higher center of mass. But at the positive side it will have more mass wider then before so we will see if this is better against traction rolls.

[mrroy76]

Bling :)

[Muttlee]

Hi all
I'm looking for a breakdown of parts needed to convert an RB6 to an RB5 rear arms? What is everyone doing for high grip tracks?

Cheers
Lee:thumbsup:

[Neil Skull]

Hi im building a new RB6 for the 2014 season and with new type of electronics VIPER i couldnt get it like i had last year with orion. VIPER esc is a bit higher. I also ran sadle packs last year, but now im going for the shorty.

I also going for a lot of EXOTEK bling so we will see how those works. (im still waiting for shock caps, spring adjusters and steering rack)

Has anyone else tried a battery setup like i am doing now? I have seen some similar bur with the battery all the way back and the esc in front.

I dont think it will make any balancing problems. The only thing that im worried about is that i cant get it all the way down to the chassi plate. Its about 2-3 mm clearing under it. So if this will impact the balance sideways is unknown due to little higher center of mass. But at the positive side it will have more mass wider then before so we will see if this is better against traction rolls.

I have not seen it with the shorty more in the middle before, let us know how it goes!

[Neil Skull]

Hi all
I'm looking for a breakdown of parts needed to convert an RB6 to an RB5 rear arms? What is everyone doing for high grip tracks?

Cheers
Lee:thumbsup:

Hi Lee,
UM521-1 is all you need the RB5 wishbones. you will need 2 as its a set!
many drivers use this set up on high grip.

[danmurphy]

Hi Lee,
UM521-1 is all you need the RB5 wishbones. you will need 2 as its a set!
many drivers use this set up on high grip.

Doesn't UM521-1 only have the one mounting hole for the shocks? I have UM566 which has two holes on both sides of the arm. Again you need to order x2.
You will also need to either ream out the ends to fit the stock outer hinge pin or use these...

http://insidelineracing.co.uk/new-pr...51ca4c-details

You'll need 2 small button head screws same as the ones that hold the pins in the front wishbones, not sure on the size or part number for these though.

[RogerM]

I normally prefer to use the UM521/UM566/LA272 rear arms as they have the two holes in, normally drill another hole inside the inner most standard hole at the same spacing.

If you search for posts by me I did a full guid on fitting all the various arm combinations in response to a similar quesiton.

[Muttlee]

Thanks folks!! I'll give this a try then. Cheers :)

[Muttlee]

Hi all.
just received the rb5 wishbones. And noticed that um566 don't have any holes for the sway bar ? Or Will that not be needed now! Thanks again. :-)

[RogerM]

Not seen anybody run the straight arms with the sway bar kit on RB6, doesn't mean some haven't tried of course.

[RudeTony]

Not seen anybody run the straight arms with the sway bar kit on RB6, doesn't mean some haven't tried of course.

Roger Roger Roger - LOL

[ahhseeten]

I've never found any info anywhere WHY the flat rb5 rear arms are better on high grip?... What exact scientific fact causes the benefit? What do they do differently that can't be achieved by setup alterations to the standard arms car?

[Chris Elworthy]

Good point there Mark,

From what I've read the flat arm allows the car to rotate flatter around the corner so in effect faster. I've tried the flat arms but have permanently gone back to the gullwings as I feel finding a good setup when the grip is low to be far far easier plus you have far more wheelbase adjustment that you don't get with the flat arms.

In high grip I add the roll bars and it seems to give a very similar feeling to the flat arms. At the end of the day all the flat arm is doing is limiting roll that can be achieved in other ways.


...just my opinion of course



Chris

[Gayo]

I've never found any info anywhere WHY the flat rb5 rear arms are better on high grip?... What exact scientific fact causes the benefit? What do they do differently that can't be achieved by setup alterations to the standard arms car?

I am not an engineer but as the shock attaches to the arm in a place lower than a straight arm, it changes the rate of compression of the shock. Instead of a linear compression, you get something like a soft, neutral point at the beginning of compression (shock extended). A bit like running laydown shocks.

That's what I believe anyway :bored:

[Oops]

My Redworkshop RB6 CF conversion kit.
This is the 2014 version with the new lipo brace.

http://img15.hostingpics.net/pics/91330220140325212512.jpg

[cornishboy176]

Ran my RB6 outdoors for the first time at the weekend, I was suffering with it nose diving off the jumps, I had to correct it by blipping the throttle in mid air but it unsettled the car when landing, am I right in thinking if I lengthen the front shocks slightly that will help??? Or any help would be appreciated

Thanks

[Neil Skull]

Ran my RB6 outdoors for the first time at the weekend, I was suffering with it nose diving off the jumps, I had to correct it by blipping the throttle in mid air but it unsettled the car when landing, am I right in thinking if I lengthen the front shocks slightly that will help??? Or any help would be appreciated

Thanks

Many things to look at like where the weight distribution is, have you got drag brake set on ESC? The easiest fix is Softer rear springs or harder fronts to give better balance for jumping.

[cornishboy176]

Many things to look at like where the weight distribution is, have you got drag brake set on ESC? The easiest fix is Softer rear springs or harder fronts to give better balance for jumping.

Rudebits shorty conversion,speedo in front of motor,dumpy servo and I have got 10% drag brake on, X gear pink rear 27.5wt and X gear orange front 40wt

[Mowen208fly]

Rudebits shorty conversion,speedo in front of motor,dumpy servo and I have got 10% drag brake on, X gear pink rear 27.5wt and X gear orange front 40wt

And you are from Cornwall :lol:

[cornishboy176]

And you are from Cornwall :lol:

Sssshhhhh!! I didn't want anyone to know that!!!!

[Neil Skull]

Try it without drag brake!
Springs seem ok to me!

[RogerM]

Drag brake is almost certainly the issue however your rear springs are very soft and if it's old fashioned wooden jumps you could find the rear of the chassis is bottoming out as it crosses the edge of the ramp kicking the back end up in the air.
Can also happen if ride height is too low.

Try taking the drag brake off first, then play with springs and ride heights.

[cornishboy176]

Drag brake is almost certainly the issue however your rear springs are very soft and if it's old fashioned wooden jumps you could find the rear of the chassis is bottoming out as it crosses the edge of the ramp kicking the back end up in the air.
Can also happen if ride height is too low.

Try taking the drag brake off first, then play with springs and ride heights.

Ideal, thanks I will try that, maybe x gear gold springs or going up to 30wt rear instead of 27.5, ride height is 20mm all round

[MHeadling]

Quick question, do AE big bore pistons fit in the kyosho BB shocks??

[discothesnake]

Hi Mark, the kyosho pistons are thicker than AE ones and wouldn't be a good fit on on the shaft. As far as I know, it's only kyosho pistons that fit. You can buy blank pistons tho if you are wanting to make
your own.

Dave

[Gayo]

They fit but you have to use a thin washer (0.1 or 0.2) to stop any play.

[MHeadling]

Thanks for the info guys, I'll get some more kyosho ones on order but needed to use the AE ones to get me by till the shops re open

[Chris-S]

Losi ones are a direct fit ;)

[MHeadling]

I'v got a gear diff with my RB6, it's going great with the ball diff in it at the mo

Do many people run the gear diff in the RB6??

Any good starting points on oil?

[Gayo]

I tried 3000, 5000, now I have 10 000 on our high-grip astro carpet. I like the planted feel of the thicker oil, really smooth. I didn't tried any harder oil yet, will do it soon.

[MHeadling]

Thanks for the info Gayo, I normal diff oil ok in these diffs (stays in the diff!) or is better to go for a grease??

[bigt]

It'll stay in for one meet for me I use putoline racing grease most feels about 5k but lasts months

[Gayo]

Disclaimer: I am not engineer so you may find some BS on the text below:lol:

I think that you miss something when using grease on a gear diff. Oil gets kinda stiffer as the diff works harder and friction increases (this is what gives pack to the shocks), but grease stays more or less the same. You get too much diffing out and you get a bad handling car with grease on the diff, as well as too thin of an oil.

Another issue is that the Kyosho gear diff is not very well made. I have two of them and they leak like crazy! So I used some some black gasket sealant and the leaking is gone. Not very handy but Id' rather mess with sealant than get oil everywhere on the gear box but on the diff itself.:)

Edit: I didn't knew there were CST rated greases. I was only commenting on "normal" greases such as graphite grease.

[discostu]

mark

stick to the ball diff it is proving faster at our club just put a good set of balls and good diff grease in built it with care and attection to detail and it will last pretty well

stu

[MHeadling]

Thanks again for the feedback, when I did take a look at the diff I did think it looked a bit rtr.

I was thinking the cst rated kyosho diff greases may work in this diff.

Well my ball diff is brand new now with ceramic balls etc so will leave it in the car :)

[discostu]

Thanks again for the feedback, when I did take a look at the diff I did think it looked a bit rtr.

I was thinking the cst rated kyosho diff greases may work in this diff.

Well my ball diff is brand new now with ceramic balls etc so will leave it in the car :)

Good call buddy

it doesnt matter too much k domination is about to end at marritime lol

[Andywoods]

Hi just wondering if anyone has tried shortys and saddles back to back in wet slippy conditions and which were best?

[RogerM]

Andy, the answer is I have yes but it's not as simple a question as that. It's about how the shorty is used too.

In the dry shorty in a RudeBits tray, no extra weight on smooth tracks, 34g under the shorty if bumpy. Car is more agile and direct than with saddles, far nicer to drive.

In the wet saddles would be better due to the weight being slightly further off the centre line and thus creating more roll which helps generate grip. You have to remember the saddles cases are empty at the last 5mm or so of each end so to get the same balance side-side you need to run them with the terminals on opposite sides to each other.

Now having said all that I don't have saddles any more and don't intend to get any more either.
This means in the wet I have to mimic their effect so to do this I use the 23g RudeBits side weights on the RudeBits tray with the weights in the rear position. I also add a 2nd 34g weight under the cells if really slippery. This makes the car feel even better than with saddles as not only is the balance side-side spot on the overall weight is slightly up and the weight bias is slightly more rearward.

I'll normally run the car identical in the wet to the dry other than resetting ride heights +1mm both ends and removing 1-2mm from under the inner ball studs front and rear.

Final point is if you want the absolute best in slippery conditions the lightweight chassis is of benefit I'm told, yet to try one myself but definitely will be getting one soon.

[danmurphy]

Is there a longer cvd bone available that will fit the rb6? With a wider rear track, the drive pin sits right at the end of the diff outdrives.

[RogerM]

65.5mm bone is the longest available from Kyosho.

Why do you want to run the rear of the car at it's widest? I normally run it slightly narrower than kit to aid rear traction.

[RogerM]

Quite a few people lately have been asking me for my base setup on the RB6 so here it is.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setuprb6/RB6_RogerMills_Kidderminster201405/setup.pdf​

[RogerM]

A fair few people have been asking for my latest RB6 setup recently. Sorry it has taken a while to post it up but I wanted to be 100% sure it was both faster and easier to drive than the previous one people liked.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setuprb6/RB6_RogerMills_Kidderminster201408/

Hope that helps

[Stu Dixon]

What's the best position for the front and rear camber links ? running at Bury, its astro, bumpy and very high grip ?

Cheers :thumbsup:

[danmurphy]

What's the best position for the front and rear camber links ? running at Bury, its astro, bumpy and very high grip ?

Cheers :thumbsup:

Stu, I would try Roger's setup first and go from there. I ran the car similar to Roger's last setup and it made it alot easier to drive. The biggest changes I made were the ackerman adjustments, moving the lipo forward and using a slighty firmer front spring.

[Stu Dixon]

Stu, I would try Roger's setup first and go from there. I ran the car similar to Roger's last setup and it made it alot easier to drive. The biggest changes I made were the ackerman adjustments, moving the lipo forward and using a slighty firmer front spring.

Dan,
I have printed Roger's sutup off and am going to use it only thing is I can tell what holes the ball studs are in ? Don't know if it's just me being a bit dumb ! That's why I was asking if they are run long or short etc ?
Cheers
Stu

[danmurphy]

Dan,
I have printed Roger's sutup off and am going to use it only thing is I can tell what holes the ball studs are in ? Don't know if it's just me being a bit dumb ! That's why I was asking if they are run long or short etc ?
Cheers
Stu

Hole 3 on the front is the outer hole on the bulkhead. On the rear, Hole 3 is the second from the outside on the alloy hubs. If you have the plastic Type-B hubs, it is the outside hole. Inside hole on the rear bulkhead.

[RogerM]

Stu, getting used to the many options on the RB6 setup sheet can take a little time but trust me, it's not a complicated car to set up :)

Always happy to help any way I can and I can assure you that latest setup will be a good place to start as confirmed by several drivers of different abilities who have tried it now. Most important thing is to use ALL of the setup as even the seemingly insignificant things can be really important!

If it doesn't work for you then please let me know and I'll do my best to help tune it to suit you. I'd ask you to think about how the car feels through the corner, entry/mid and exit separately as that will help me help you tune.

Hope you enjoy it :)

[InsideLineModels]

What's the best position for the front and rear camber links ? running at Bury, its astro, bumpy and very high grip ?

Cheers :thumbsup:

Hi Stu, if you're at Bury this weekend and need a hand pop over and say hi. I may not run the RB6 anymore, but i have a lot of experience with it and would be happy to help.

Cheers
Kev

[Stu Dixon]

Hi Stu, if you're at Bury this weekend and need a hand pop over and say hi. I may not run the RB6 anymore, but i have a lot of experience with it and would be happy to help.

Cheers
Kev

Ok cheers Kev.

[HOTSHOT III]

As title really, was thinking of trying a gear diff at TORCH on Sunday if the weather stays fine.

Can anyone recommend a decent starting point for oil weight etc.? This will be the 1st time i've used a gear diff in any 1/10th car so would appreciate any help:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Pinder]

What is the rb6 like compared to the Schumacher KF on high bite carpet?

[RogerM]

The RB6 rotates very freely compared to many of the other conventional mid motor cars so works really well on high grip surfaces.

Forward motor cars drive very differently from a conventional mid so it is very hard to compare them directly. A forward motor car should be quicker on high grip stuff BUT that depends on the drivers ability to adapt their driving style to get the best out of it.

RB6 is a great all round car

[Dazzieboy]

I drove my newly acquired RB6 for the 1st time on carpet last weekend. It had a far from ideal setup for carpet (pink front springs) and was diffing up a lot out of corners but what i was amazed about was how direct the steering was. I could hit an apex relatively easily. In the end i was a lap down on a KF but as stated above I think the RB6 will be a better allrounder.

[Pinder]

Thanks for your answers, can you tell me what spur gear comes with the kit?

[Dazzieboy]

I believe it is a 76T spur, I have seen a 69T available on ebay and the 78T from the ZX5 would also fit. RW racing also do a range I think

[MHeadling]

I've got the adjustable Kyosho rear hinge pin holders, what would be a good setting for indoor carpet racing?

I've had a read on rctech and D in front and rear seems to be what they are using on dirt

[RogerM]

The simplified answer is;
narrow (i.e. both Din) best for low grip
wide (i.e. both Dout) best for high grip

I typically run my RB6 Cout both so that I can easily change between 3deg, 2.5 (Bout rear) and 3.5 (Dout rear) toe in settings. Any more than ±0.5deg toe change and I'll do it at the hubs.

Hope that helps

[MHeadling]

Thanks Roger! :thumbsup:

[rowley]

B-out everywhere, Mark!

[RudeTony]

I'm not sure I agree with B out everywhere - sorry

[RogerM]

I'm with Tony on this, it is a VERY useful tuning aid that once you have your head around can make a significant difference to the overall "feel" of the car.

[RudeTony]

So long as everyone knows who is who then its OK - LOL

[slow coach]

A fair few people have been asking for my latest RB6 setup recently. Sorry it has taken a while to post it up but I wanted to be 100% sure it was both faster and easier to drive than the previous one people liked.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setuprb6/RB6_RogerMills_Kidderminster201408/

Hope that helps

Whats the advantage with the 2 hole drilled pistons ??

[RogerM]

For me the rear end was packing up a little to much on rough tracks with the 2x1.6 pistons and 300cst oil that my previous starting setup used. Also in some situations the car benefits from squatting a little more under acceleration when looking for greater traction.

Going to the 2x1.7 pistons with 350cst oil improves the car in both aspects, tried larger flow area in the pistons (both bigger holes and different number of holes) however I've found 2x1.7 to be a great all round piston.

As an aside I've found the car more sensitive to antisquat adjustments since going to the 2x1.7 pistons than either 2x1.6 or 4x1.35 that I've previously run.

Hope that helps

[slow coach]

Thanks Roger for the input what was the difference compared to the kit psitons

[RogerM]

I find that the 2 hole pistons allow you to run the car a little softer on static damping so that he weight can transfer around the car a bit more freely. The 2 hole pistons pack up earlier so still control the big hits and landings well with a softer overall feel on the bench and low load situations.

I used to swear by 4 hole pistons in the RB5 & RB6 cars but seems I missed a trick, probably by virtue of doing the majority of my piston trials using tapered pistons.

[noreturn]

Couple of questions:

What associated springs do most people run?
White/white?


Also what does reversing the ackerman link do?

[RogerM]

If I run AE springs it is usually red or yellow fronts with grey rears in the 3rd (drilled) inner hole on the rear wishbones.

Reversing the ackerman link makes the car slightly less aggressive, good for calming the car when the grip levels make her a little twitchy.
TBH I run it reversed all the time but generally have ~1.25mm of spacing behind the ball stud so it's actually in the stock position (the difference between the two is 1.25mm)

[leeboy44]

sorry if this question has ben asked before but i cant seem to find it :blush:

do any of you guys run gear diff on carpet? what oil do you use?

many thanks

[MHeadling]

Yes seems a popular option but depends on driving style/track, if it's all carpet/astro then go for the gear diff, if it's a mix of wood/carpet I would go for the ball diff

3k is a good starting point, to stop my one leaking I put some hermatite sealant on each side of the gasket (degrease all parts first before adding the sealant) and this seemed to do the trick

[Fozzy1989]

Hi guys hoping someone can help me out with a set up for carpet and gym floor tinkered and tried quite a few different things but can't seem to get it right.

Cheers
Chris

[Strykerca]

Hello fellow RC'ers. This is my first kit after playing around with a Traxxas 4x4.

My question is regarding the mounting of the shocks (upper fr and rear) I do not like the fact that they provide plastic 3 mm nuts and a plastic shock ball.It feels too loose and sloppy. Can you get replacement nuts and balls that are better.

I enjoyed building the kit, however the directions and parts bags were a mess. Some parts were in multiple bags for the same step. Kinda confusing. I ended up putting all the screws in a pile and measuring them as I went.

Still need to purchase electronics, motor, ESC, servo Etc. Hopefully I can get some advice as I move along

Thanks Guys (and Gals)

[InsideLineModels]

You can use any M3 lock nut on the shock mount locations.

We do a range of alloy and stainless nuts if it helps. Take a look here

http://insidelineracing.co.uk/inside-line-shop/screws-nuts-spacers-etc/nuts

Kev

[Strykerca]

You can use any M3 lock nut on the shock mount locations.

We do a range of alloy and stainless nuts if it helps. Take a look here

http://insidelineracing.co.uk/inside-line-shop/screws-nuts-spacers-etc/nuts

Kev
Thanks for the link. Can you get specific aluminum shock ball and nut in kit, maybe anodized?

[InsideLineModels]

yep, Exotec do these:
http://insidelineracing.co.uk/inside-line-shop/search?keyword=ex1272&limitstart=0&option=com_virtuemart&view=category

[RogerM]

Hi guys hoping someone can help me out with a set up for carpet and gym floor tinkered and tried quite a few different things but can't seem to get it right.

Cheers
Chris

I run the latest setup I've got on Petit RC for astro indoors and the car is really nice.

Only modification I would do if the grip was really low on the gym floor was to drop the inside rear ball studs to 0mm spacing.

Hope that helps.

[Fozzy1989]

I run the latest setup I've got on Petit RC for astro indoors and the car is really nice.

Only modification I would do if the grip was really low on the gym floor was to drop the inside rear ball studs to 0mm spacing.

Hope that helps.
Is this your latest one Roger? http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setuprb6/RB6_RogerMills_Kidderminster201408/

Cheers
Chris

[RogerM]

Is this your latest one Roger? http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setuprb6/RB6_RogerMills_Kidderminster201408/

Cheers
Chris

Yes mate, that is the one.

One thing I forgot to mention was that increasing the front shock length by 1.5mm really helps transfer weight front to rear in lower grip conditions too.

[Fozzy1989]

Yes mate, that is the one.

One thing I forgot to mention was that increasing the front shock length by 1.5mm really helps transfer weight front to rear in lower grip conditions too.
Cheers mate, just a couple of questions on the set up if you don't mind?

I've noticed that you are using the RB5 rear arms what difference/advantage have you seen to using the kit ones?

I've seen that you are also using the shortest ball stud link on the front of the buggy. One of the things I've noticed when running the car is how much steering it creates so have found I've tried to dial it out. Is this cancelled out by reversing the steering rack because this is one thing I haven't tried yet?

Cheers
Chris

[RogerM]

The RB5 (flat) arms keep the car flatter through corners and help reduce the mid corner pivot / tucking in of the nose that the RB6 has naturally. As a rule of thumb I run the flat arms everywhere but if I've got enough mid corner rear end but am struggling a little to keep it's nose in then will go back to the stock RB6 rear arms.

As with everything like this it is personal preference / driving style. I know plenty of people who prefer the stock RB6 arms.

My advice is to try them both back-back and see which works best for you.

Reversing the steering rack makes the car feel a little smoother on initial turn in through to about 50% lock.

I often run with the rack reversed but 1.25mm or so of spacing behind the ball stud on the rack to put it back to the stock setting, doing this means it's only seconds work to calm the car down by removing the spacers or equally to put a little more in if I want the car to be more reactive to initial steering inputs.

HTH

[Fozzy1989]

The RB5 (flat) arms keep the car flatter through corners and help reduce the mid corner pivot / tucking in of the nose that the RB6 has naturally. As a rule of thumb I run the flat arms everywhere but if I've got enough mid corner rear end but am struggling a little to keep it's nose in then will go back to the stock RB6 rear arms.

As with everything like this it is personal preference / driving style. I know plenty of people who prefer the stock RB6 arms.

My advice is to try them both back-back and see which works best for you.

Reversing the steering rack makes the car feel a little smoother on initial turn in through to about 50% lock.

I often run with the rack reversed but 1.25mm or so of spacing behind the ball stud on the rack to put it back to the stock setting, doing this means it's only seconds work to calm the car down by removing the spacers or equally to put a little more in if I want the car to be more reactive to initial steering inputs.

HTH
Cheers for that Roger, will certainly be trying a few bits out for the next indoor meetings. Reversing the steering rack sounds on its own like it could probably solve a lot of my set up issues. I will look to pick up some flat rear arms to try out too. I'm interested to also try your set up on the astro when I go back outdoors and do a back to back against my DB2.

Cheers again
Chris

[Fozzy1989]

Hi Roger

Quick question on the set up. Managed to get some flat RB5 arms which side are you drilling the extra hole, loop or flat and I'm guessing shocks on the back?

Cheers
Chris

[RogerM]

Loop side, shocks on the back/outside of loop.

Remember to put a spare ball or spacers in the loop to prevent it from being crushed.

[MHeadling]

I've ordered some X gear red rear springs but if they don't arrive before race night what AE rear spring is closest to X gear red??

[jamesscott32]

Can some please give me part number or pics of the parts needed to change from shorty to saddles?
Just got roller that is set up for shorties an has some spares but can't understand how I change to saddles an don't think I have all the parts needed

[Neil Skull]

Have a look at manual Here, http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/buggy/pdf/30068-T03_ULTIMA_RB6_IM.pdf
Its mostly same parts.

[RogerM]

Shouldn't need any additional parts unless your car currently has an aftermarket lipo tray in place like the rudebits one.

Been a long time since I have seen an RB6 running saddles but my memory is that the car was excellent in that configuration in lower grip conditions.

[BaStI]

Hi guys,

Does anyone else has a Problem with to much "Play" of the steering? My recently builded new rb6 has a lots of play.


Thanks
Basti

[Duncan]

Hi
Mine is the same and is fine, I use the Schelle steering rack and this works very well and does remove a bit of the play.
:thumbsup: