Tamiya 201 XMW Kit

[xfactor]

Hi Guys,

Is there any news/updates on the new Tamiya 201XMW kit to its release etc..

Thanks..

[kentech]

Actually it will be called the TRF201XMW... ;)

http://data9.blog.de/media/668/7756668_b1e10a6261_o.jpeg

[Roel]

TRF201X Mid W.....?

[xfactor]

Im guessing W = Worlds ? any price or dates yet for release. Cant wait for this......:D

[Nissemon]

It has arrived in Scandinavia: http://www.tamiyaracing.dk/?p=1431

[SiR_Dave]

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Some more new pic's:woot:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/250/42277/header_42277.jpg
http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/250/42277/gallery_42277_02.jpg
http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/250/42277/gallery_42277_03.jpg
http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/250/42277/gallery_42277_04.jpg
http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/250/42277/gallery_42277_05.jpg

[xfactor]

:woot: is there a price for this yet.

[SiR_Dave]

Street price in Japan is right around 45000 Yen.. should be a little bit cheaper from some of the Hong Kong shops once they get there hands on them :thumbsup:

[xfactor]

Hi Sir Dave,

Do you know when Hong Kong shops are likely to get them.

Thank you.

[SiR_Dave]

No to sure yet... but if we look at when the TRF503 was being sold at some of the shops over in Hong Kong... it would be a safe bet that it might be a week or a few days before the official release date in Japan ...Maybe 26th~31st of May if we are lucky... :woot:

[xfactor]

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

[Origineelreclamebord]

I wonder how much flex the chassis will have :lol: That said, design-wise the car seems to tick all boxes for an up to date car out of the box and I can imagine this car has lots of potential.

[SiR_Dave]

Instructions are now up:woot::thumbsup:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/42277ml.pdf

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Great that they included hard hex ball connectors and both gear and ball diffs. :)

[xfactor]

It looks stunning and the changes made in all the rite places. I wished Tamiya would have changed the layshaft to a complete layshaft rather than a seperate idler gear and shaft again.

[SiR_Dave]

I sent a e-mail to EXOTEK today to see if they could make a solid alloy upper shaft like they have on the B4/B5 and RB5/RB6...
just waiting to see what they say:woot::thumbsup::eh?:

[SiR_Dave]

Looks like Tamiya forgot to tell us about a updated TRF201XR kit:eh?::confused:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/images/product/250/42167XR/header_42167XR.JPG

[xfactor]

Sir Dave,

Is this a new separate kit in rear motor. If so is it longer than the XR kit that came out last year.

[Aussie Top Force]

Good to see they released two new kits. The XR looks no different than the conversion kit. Good that you can now buy it as a complete kit. Not sure if I'll get the XMW? I couldn't get the XM working as well as a rear motor car on my home track, so for the expense its probably not worth it for the rare event I might attend that has a sugared track.

[Roel]

Sir Dave,

Is this a new separate kit in rear motor. If so is it longer than the XR kit that came out last year.

It does not look any longer.
The plastic sidepods are still too long for the alu chassis as is the case with the conversion XR and XM

[xfactor]

Are these out yet in Denmark/ Sweden. If so what model shops are selling the 201 xmw any help would be really appreciated guys/girls.

Thank you.

[SiR_Dave]

Been looking for a shop that sells them... so far no luck:cry:.. if you find out post up:woot::thumbsup:

[D-StyleNZL]

Wonder if the New XR gearcase can fit the Gear diff?

Im still to run my current XM for the year, but at end of last year with arms forward it handled the best ive ever had from the 201.

Expensive time to be a Tamiya owner. Pitty they dont make alot of each Kit cause they may be sold out soon and be such a drama trying to find one (eg: TRF511)

[SiR_Dave]

Looks like we might have a few options for Top shafts here it things go well:woot::thumbsup:

[Nissemon]

Are these out yet in Denmark/ Sweden. If so what model shops are selling the 201 xmw any help would be really appreciated guys/girls.

Thank you.

I picked mine up yesterday so yes they are here. But all of them have been preordered and sold as I understand it. You could try to contact following shops if there is any left:

www.prorc.se
www.tcmodel.dk
www.superhobby.dk

Neither shop has them listed on their page yet and beware that you will pay atleast 650 us dollars for it.

[Roel]

Wonder if the New XR gearcase can fit the Gear diff?

Don't think so,on the pictures Dave posted earlier it looked like it includes the normal plastic parts from the 201x.

Neither shop has them listed on their page yet and beware that you will pay atleast 650 us dollars for it.

That is a hefty pricetag... 200 more then the 503....:confused:

[Nissemon]

You cant compare EU prices with HK. This is the main reason TRF kits are shipped to EU one month before released in asia as otherwise no one would buy them here. Same goes for Canada. It will be around 400-450 usd when available in HK.

[Jamesk]

Wow big money, think I'll stick to my XM conversion kit which seems good value for money now. All joking aside I have been impressed with my 201xm I'm finding the package is very quick and easer to drive now I've got the tyre compounds tested and found a good base set up.

I have found the car responds to BB whites well on the rear on astro as the softer Schumacher yellows and whites slide more under braking in to hairpins.

jK

[SiR_Dave]

I picked mine up yesterday so yes they are here. But all of them have been preordered and sold as I understand it. You could try to contact following shops if there is any left:

www.prorc.se (http://www.prorc.se)
www.tcmodel.dk (http://www.tcmodel.dk)
www.superhobby.dk (http://www.superhobby.dk)

Neither shop has them listed on their page yet and beware that you will pay atleast 650 us dollars for it.

650$....:eh?: I'll wait until Hong Kong or Japan gets there stock in.. it should be about 450$ in Japan ... and 400~450$ from Hong Kong once they get there pricing up...:)

[xfactor]

With you on this Dave.................... Come on RCmart...........:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

OK... how many of you guys would be interested in a Fully hardened Alloy top shaft for the TRF201 that would allow the use of a M4 lock nut like the B5 top shaft.. and be able to use a AVID Racing style slipper ( since our upper shaft on the 201 is a few mm short ) Might be a way for us to drop a few grams off the Transmission vice just using the TRF alloy top gear:woot::)
There is also a slipper eliminator for you guys that might run 17.5 class as well:thumbsup:

More to follow...;)

[trf14]

Dave, interested:-) for sure.
Look what I made... Not sure on the effect but re-applying what the other manufacturing guys are doing. :thumbsup:The yokomo arm and hub fit perfect ( except washer needed on bulkhead/arm connect...
Cheers

[SiR_Dave]

Good info on the Arms working... the B5 front arms and c-hubs work as well and have the same lower spacing as the the Tamiya front arms.. they look a little stronger as well:)

[SiR_Dave]

Anyone wanting to get some Cut Gears for 17.5 might want to contact this guy :)
http://www.shop.cbscustomrc.com/
Have a few sets of gears getting worked on now :woot::thumbsup:

[Nissemon]

Some impressions from my XMW build.

* Dont mix up the 5mm shim used in the ball diff with the one used on the layshaft. I went for the geardiff and didnt pay attention and ended up with a tight gearbox.

* Plastic gears are supplied for the gear diff but the cross is metal. I dont trust plastic diff gears in a offroad car and got metal ones (54428) instead. The o-rings are also the crappy black ones, fitted Kyosho red in mine.

* As always with Tamiya cars crappy diff balls are supplied but the diff plates are improved alloy ones. Go for tungsten carbide balls instead (54226) and an Avid/Casper 2.6mm thrust bearing.

* The left rear camber link sits awfully close the gear cover and will limit the use of all but the rear holes on rear hubs. This will mainly affect those that wants use alu hubs. (Carbon plastic is preferred anyway).

* Wing mounts are the weak ones from the 201. But holes are drilled for the more durable 501/511/503 mounts (51271) aswell.

* Slipper pads -> switch to AE yellows as always.

* Gearing options are very limited for mod motors. The upper motor mount screw hits the spur gear when going below 22T pinion.

* Front bulkhead is plastic. The 201/Vega has always needed weight in the nose before so fitted weight block (54439) to mine.

* Orient the flat part of the front battery posts towards the rear so you might actually have a chance to get the saddle pack in.

* If built per instruction rear shocks will end up with an extreme amount of drop. I put 2 mm in mine to start with for a 21 mm rideheight. Also put a o-ring on the shock shaft to limit uptravel and prevent driveshaft from hitting the outdrive.

A heads up for those who wants to get titanium screws for the car, rcmart has a sale on Tamiya TRF 201 Titanium Screw Set:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-84126-titanium-screw-p-31878.html?cPath=595_744_1468 20$ shipped.

[SiR_Dave]

OK ... got a bit of info for you guys that are trying to purchase this kit from somewhere over in Asia... Tamiya is taking orders for the kits from most of the shops during the Shizuoka hobby show.. so that means that the Japan shops will be able to get them out quicker than the Hong Kong shops this time.. unlike when the TRF503 was released..:yawn:

So far Pro Shop Futaba & CHAMP have returned e-mails... it looks like Champ has the best price so far about 500$ shipped EMS.. Futaba is about 580$ shipped EMS:bored:

[kentech]

... :)

[SiR_Dave]

:wub

[Roel]

:wub

Can I make a guess who now has one?... :)

[SiR_Dave]

Yep:thumbsup:

[xfactor]

Just pre-ordered mine from the boys at RCmada :D. They are taking pre-orders if anyone is interested.........Cant wait for this :thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Did they give you a price and a shipping date..?:confused:

[guinness]

Some impressions from my XMW build.

* Dont mix up the 5mm shim used in the ball diff with the one used on the layshaft. I went for the geardiff and didnt pay attention and ended up with a tight gearbox.

* Plastic gears are supplied for the gear diff but the cross is metal. I dont trust plastic diff gears in a offroad car and got metal ones (54428) instead. The o-rings are also the crappy black ones, fitted Kyosho red in mine.

* As always with Tamiya cars crappy diff balls are supplied but the diff plates are improved alloy ones. Go for tungsten carbide balls instead (54226) and an Avid/Casper 2.6mm thrust bearing.

* The left rear camber link sits awfully close the gear cover and will limit the use of all but the rear holes on rear hubs. This will mainly affect those that wants use alu hubs. (Carbon plastic is preferred anyway).

* Wing mounts are the weak ones from the 201. But holes are drilled for the more durable 501/511/503 mounts (51271) aswell.

* Slipper pads -> switch to AE yellows as always.

* Gearing options are very limited for mod motors. The upper motor mount screw hits the spur gear when going below 22T pinion.

* Front bulkhead is plastic. The 201/Vega has always needed weight in the nose before so fitted weight block (54439) to mine.

* Orient the flat part of the front battery posts towards the rear so you might actually have a chance to get the saddle pack in.

* If built per instruction rear shocks will end up with an extreme amount of drop. I put 2 mm in mine to start with for a 21 mm rideheight. Also put a o-ring on the shock shaft to limit uptravel and prevent driveshaft from hitting the outdrive.

A heads up for those who wants to get titanium screws for the car, rcmart has a sale on Tamiya TRF 201 Titanium Screw Set:
http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-84126-titanium-screw-p-31878.html?cPath=595_744_1468 20$ shipped.
Gosh ...all those impression don't seems to be that good:eh?:

[SiR_Dave]

Small issues... Nothing that is a big issue in my eyes.... No kit is 100% perfect regardless of price....:yawn::wub

[xfactor]

Did they give you a price and a shipping date..?:confused:

Hi Sir-Dave,

Expect it to be 2-3 weeks..............:thumbsup: But this was the cheapest I found shipped to uk.....;)

[SiR_Dave]

Nice!!:woot:

should have mine in about 3~4 days:p:drool::woot:

[xfactor]

:woot: nice.....

[SiR_Dave]

Just going to leave this here for you Tamiya spring users:thumbsup:

2wd Front: 54507
Hard springs x2 (.61 spring rate) =3.48
Medium springs x2 (.56 spring rate) =3.19
Soft springs x2 (.52 spring rate) = 2.96


4wd Front: 54506
Hard springs x2 (.76 spring rate) =4.33
Medium springs x2 (.70 spring rate) =3.99
Soft springs x2 (.64 spring rate) =3.65


2/4wd Rear: 54508
Hard springs x2 (.43 spring rate) =2.45
Medium springs x2 (.40 spring rate) =2.28
Soft springs x2 (.37 spring rate) =2.11

Multiply the above by 5.71 to get your lbs. equivalent

[SiR_Dave]

Still waiting on a few parts...like the kit ...:rolleyes::cry::bored: ..( stuck in damn customs for week now! )..but look what works on the front of the car.. B5 front arms... most of you knew that the B5 knuckles work but I thought why not try out the Arms too... :wub:woot::thumbsup:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0753_zps181ae1a5.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0753_zps181ae1a5.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0754_zps72dc5828.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0754_zps72dc5828.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0755_zps3405eb56.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0755_zps3405eb56.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0757_zps4f3a568a.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0757_zps4f3a568a.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0758_zps64da2581.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0758_zps64da2581.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0762_zps7f87d919.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0762_zps7f87d919.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0763_zps058e3e7b.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0763_zps058e3e7b.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0765_zpsafc0145d.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0765_zpsafc0145d.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Just a little bit of weight reduction on the Gear Diff:).. weights less than the standard ball diff by 5 grams:woot:... will post of the Cut gears and light weight stuff for the Ball diff as well next week...:thumbsup:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0760_zpsf37ca29e.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0760_zpsf37ca29e.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Couple of top shafts to reduce some of the unwanted weight from the TRF201 transmission:D

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0767_zpsf4e1697d.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0767_zpsf4e1697d.jpg.html)

[Toon]

Stellamodels in Hong Kong have the TRF201XMW kit listed as being in stock on 29th May, at $408 plus shipping.

http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/42277-trf201xmw-chassis-p-8244.html

:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Nice:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Stellamodels in Hong Kong have the TRF201XMW kit listed as being in stock on 29th May, at $408 plus shipping.

http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/42277-trf201xmw-chassis-p-8244.html

:thumbsup:

They just lowered the price to 398$:eh?::wub:woot::thumbsup:

[xfactor]

On ebay now 260 + 29 shipping to uk. Now thats awesome :thumbsup:

[Origineelreclamebord]

I can't find it, but that is an attractive price! :) 400USD buys you two more driven wheels in most cases. I'd be interested to switch back to a 201 in the long term, but at the MSRP and rates I'm hearing so far I have to make a deal with the devil, sell some limbs or hope I find an oil field in my backyard :lol:

[Toon]

On ebay now 260 + 29 shipping to uk. Now thats awesome :thumbsup:

I can't find it, but that is an attractive price! :) 400USD buys you two more driven wheels in most cases. I'd be interested to switch back to a 201 in the long term, but at the MSRP and rates I'm hearing so far I have to make a deal with the devil, sell some limbs or hope I find an oil field in my backyard :lol:

That's £260, not $260 I'm afraid Origineelreclamebord!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-42277-1-10-RC-2WD-Off-Road-Racer-Buggy-TRF201-XMW-Chassis-Kit-Limited-Car-/351080779373?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item51be0b8e6d

In the UK at least, £260 (~$400) is roughly the same price as a few other race spec 2WD buggies, such as the Schumacher KF, XRay XB4-2WD, or Yokomo B-MAX2MRF. There are cheaper buggies like the Associated and Losi, but I certainly don't think the TRF201XMW is overpriced considering the spec out of the box.

[xfactor]

Sorry guys should of put this is uk pounds :blush: just got over excited !!!!!

[Origineelreclamebord]

I guess I'll check my backyard first for some black gold before I resort to the more drastic measures to get a new TRF :p That, and/or... be patient - Yikes! :lol:

[SiR_Dave]

Should have my kit today or tomorrow:drool::woot::woot::woot::thumbsup:

[Jamesk]

At that price I'm very tempted to get on but as I've got the mark one XM, I'm not sure I'd be able to get permission from the boss (wife). Would be intersting to compare the two as I've been pleased with the XM so far.

jK

[SiR_Dave]

Kit showed up today !!! :)
I'll post up some pics later today ...

[SiR_Dave]

:woot:So it begins:thumbsup:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0768_zpsfcf15503.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0768_zpsfcf15503.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0769_zpsc1934efe.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0769_zpsc1934efe.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0770_zpsd536b12d.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0770_zpsd536b12d.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Some build progress:drool:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0779_zpsbb8a872f.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0779_zpsbb8a872f.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

It took a while but I finally was able to find a full alloy top shaft that fits with a little bit of work :D It's 6grams lighter than the oem top shaft with the alloy gear and you don't have to worry about the o-ring or pin coming out anymore:yawn:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0778_zps682e01c2.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0778_zps682e01c2.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Also was able to get a Schelle Nova Slipper (Same as AVID TRIAD ) to work as well:thumbsup: and it fits under the OEM gear cover:woot:

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0771_zpsede6a689.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0771_zpsede6a689.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0772_zps3bda75ce.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0772_zps3bda75ce.jpg.html)

[jph]

Looking really good Dave, is the Schelle Nova Slipper that much better than the stock Tamiya assembly?

Any idea if the gear diff will fit in the original XM conversion gearbox?

[SiR_Dave]

The Schelle Nova slipper works great on my Centro C4.2 and I lived it better than the V2 slipper... plus it has a much better tuning window for slip and weighs a bit less to close to 1 gram over the standard v2 two pad slipper :)

Now as for the gear diff in the original XM.. the TA06( TRF201 ) gear diff is too wide and will not work.. but with a little bit of work you can get a Kyosho one to work:blush:

[D-StyleNZL]

What alloy diff shaft did you use?
That slipper setup is that for a B44?


Also, could you post ar pic once you done of the angle of the rear shocks once connected to the arms?

I could never get the rear arms forward working on my XM due to the angle of the shocks.

Also is there any idea on how many of these kits (and even the TRF503) that tamiya has made?

[SiR_Dave]

What alloy diff shaft did you use?
That slipper setup is that for a B44??

The alloy diff outdrives on the gear diff are ones from the TRF417 you will need to get 2 of them since they come with a long and a short one.. you will need 2 short sides :)

the Slipper is from a B4/B5/B44....


Also, could you post a pic once you done of the angle of the rear shocks once connected to the arms?

I could never get the rear arms forward working on my XM due to the angle of the shocks.

Also is there any idea on how many of these kits (and even the TRF503) that tamiya has made?

The shock angle is better from what I have seen on my buddy's XM.. looks like the fixed the angle issue.. I'll post a pic later today once I am finished:thumbsup:


Now for the Kits on how many they have made.. I would have to take a guess... say 2000-3000 kits...:confused:

[SiR_Dave]

OK...

Here is a breakdown of the Gearbox with all of the lite weight parts installed..:woot:
MIP Puck system installed as well just by using MIP diff I was able to shed almost 20g!!!:thumbsup:and about 8g per CVD as well..


Needless to say this gearbox's drive train is going to be very light:drool:
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0780_zps57383a3d.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0780_zps57383a3d.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0784_zps4d8fa2f6.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0784_zps4d8fa2f6.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0785_zpsb8723efb.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0785_zpsb8723efb.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0786_zps7e81aeb5.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0786_zps7e81aeb5.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0787_zpsa857bed4.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0787_zpsa857bed4.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0788_zpsd975fb8d.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0788_zpsd975fb8d.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0790_zpsbb30b2be.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0790_zpsbb30b2be.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0791_zps97c3d3a1.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0791_zps97c3d3a1.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/772493c6-13dc-49e7-b672-b3e2ade1c92a_zps9035a084.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/772493c6-13dc-49e7-b672-b3e2ade1c92a_zps9035a084.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0793_zpsc8f1ef2d.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0793_zpsc8f1ef2d.jpg.html)

[Aussie Top Force]

I have to say Sir_Dave your build threads are great! You build a high spec car every time! any full chassis pictures of the XMW?

[SiR_Dave]

I will have some finished pic's tomorrow once all of the electronics and some other small stuff is done:)

[Origineelreclamebord]

Which Pucks system are you using that fits? :)

[SiR_Dave]

I'll have a list of parts up once I finish... for the gear box of all the items I used and which items need to be modified slightly:)

[SiR_Dave]

OK all finished building it... Pretty lite weight considering the XM conversion kit was a bit on the heavy side.. looks like Tamiya found a few ways to shed some weight...... well so did I as well :woot::D

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0795_zps988208db.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0795_zps988208db.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0796_zps8f8b333c.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0796_zps8f8b333c.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0798_zps27a9ae0c.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0798_zps27a9ae0c.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0799_zps32b5b470.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0799_zps32b5b470.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0800_zps8ca4dccb.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0800_zps8ca4dccb.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0801_zpsaaf73ee3.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0801_zpsaaf73ee3.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0802_zpsf0d4a1b5.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0802_zpsf0d4a1b5.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0804_zpscf6afe2f.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0804_zpscf6afe2f.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0805_zps927013c4.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0805_zps927013c4.jpg.html)

[Origineelreclamebord]

I've heard the B5 is pretty light too... maybe your Assomiya front end is lighter? :p

All kidding aside, have you weighed both cars without tires too? Tires can make a lot of difference, I recall a fellow club member weighed his Astro tires (Schumi Cut Stagger front w/o insert, Schumi MiniSpike 2 rear) at 180g, whereas his clay tires (ProLine 4-rib front, Proline Caliber rear) at 235g. And then you're not even taking into account the debry and sand that might accumulate in the inserts after some use.

Oh, and before I forget... Neat build and electronics setup! :)

[muratti]

Wow! May i ask who is this guy with that amazing paint skills? Are the special washers on the top of the damper mountings from Tamiya?

[Toon]

Wow! May i ask who is this guy with that amazing paint skills? Are the special washers on the top of the damper mountings from Tamiya?

They are Tamiya part #53873 (RC Setting Spacer Set - Carbon Damper Stay TA05)

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/tamiya-hop-up-parts-72000/rc-setting-spacer-set-53873

:thumbsup:

[Aussie Top Force]

Very nice completed car!:thumbsup:

A lot can be said for a neat wiring job!. Makes the chassis look like a purposeful race machine! Do you cut and re-solder your servo wires?

[SiR_Dave]

Wow! May i ask who is this guy with that amazing paint skills?

Right here... LUCK is the man... rather cheap too ships world wide:thumbsup:

http://www.shopufo.com/

[SiR_Dave]

Very nice completed car!:thumbsup:

A lot can be said for a neat wiring job!. Makes the chassis look like a purposeful race machine! Do you cut and re-solder your servo wires?

Thanks... :)

Yes I do re-solder all of my servo leads ;)

[SiR_Dave]

OK... here is the breakdown of part #'s for the Light weight gear box and Avid/ Schelle slipper mod.
Tamiya lightweight idler shaft 54344 x2
AVID Alloy RB6 top shaft AV1020-TOP-KYO ( needs to be modified 2,5mm on shaft side and 2mm gear side )
MIP 17.5 Puck System B4.2 13140 ( You will need to use B4 diffgears )
MIP CVD Rear Axle RB6 12142 x2
MIP CVD 12mm Keyed Hex Adapter RB6 12144 x2
or
AVID Kyosho HD Long Rear Axle AV1041-CONV ( slight modification needed..easy to do )
or
MIP CVD Rear axle TLR 22 2.0 14119
AVID TRIAD or Schelle NOVA slipper of your choice and they both fit under the OEM gear cover:)

[Chris]

rear toe-in is 3.5 degrees?

[SiR_Dave]

Standard toe on the xmw is 3*

[Chris]

Standard toe on the xmw is 3*

Sure?

Because normally the XA block is 3.5 degrees.

[SiR_Dave]

Sure?

Because normally the XA block is 3.5 degrees.


Yep... 100.2% positive;)
Measured it out on my set up station... 3.0* each side:) also the new XA block is very different than the normal XA block..

I'll post up a picture later for you:)

[xfactor]

Thats what I thought. The XA is 3.5 and the XB is 4.0........ mmmm.

Mine should be here in 5 days and counting..........:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

The current XB and XA blocks will not fit the XMW... also the XA block that comes with the XMW is .5mm shorter than the old XA block.. so it works out pretty much what I measured on my set up station..

This is a good read as well..;)
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201X_AntiSquat/

[The Doktor]

Ready for testing tomorrow night

http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n475/leemcguire74/stuff/1re_zps64874d7f.jpg

http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n475/leemcguire74/stuff/2re_zps50d9385a.jpg

[jph]

Anybody have a good starting setup for high grip carpet - I'm more used to touring cars on tarmac so i'm struggling a bit

Thanks :)

[SiR_Dave]

Ready for testing tomorrow night

http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n475/leemcguire74/stuff/1re_zps64874d7f.jpg

http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n475/leemcguire74/stuff/2re_zps50d9385a.jpg


Looking good!!:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Anybody have a good starting setup for high grip carpet - I'm more used to touring cars on tarmac so i'm struggling a bit

Thanks :)

37.5 Oil up front with a 1.6 piston Blue 4wd front spring, 1mm limiter.
32.5 Oil in the rear with a 1.7 piston Blue 2/4wd rear spring, 1mm limiter.

20mm front ride height
20mm rear ride height

Kit setting on the rear hub and shock tower
One shock hole in on the front tower from the kit setting and .5mm shim under the shock tower ball stud.

Gear diff with 2000w oil


This should be a pretty good starting point:)

[jph]

37.5 Oil up front with a 1.6 piston Blue 4wd front spring, 1mm limiter.
32.5 Oil in the rear with a 1.7 piston Blue 2/4wd rear spring, 1mm limiter.

20mm front ride height
20mm rear ride height

Kit setting on the rear hub and shock tower
One shock hole in on the front tower from the kit setting and .5mm shim under the shock tower ball stud.

Gear diff with 2000w oil


This should be a pretty good starting point:)

Thanks SiR_Dave, your help is much appreciated. :thumbsup:

What about the basic settings such as toe & camber?

Note i'm running a xm converted 201 rather than the xmw but I guess the 2 cars are similar enough that your setup will be a good starting point for the old car too?

[Chris]

Anybody have a good starting setup for high grip carpet - I'm more used to touring cars on tarmac so i'm struggling a bit

Thanks :)

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201XM_ChrisVanDerHagen_MIO20131201/

I changed after this race the rear damper piston to 1.6 with 350 oil to reduce pack.

[jph]

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201XM_ChrisVanDerHagen_MIO20131201/

I changed after this race the rear damper piston to 1.6 with 350 oil to reduce the pack.

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your reply, coincidentally I looked on Petit RC this morning just after my last post and printed your setup sheet out wondering to myself why I hadn't looked on there earlier.

Thanks for the update on the rear shock settings :D

[SiR_Dave]

Finally got the TRF201 Cut Gears back for testing:)

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0818_zpscf47ffa6.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0818_zpscf47ffa6.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0811_zpsf0ccc543.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0811_zpsf0ccc543.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0808_zpsdec0313e.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0808_zpsdec0313e.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0810_zps39ec5b81.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0810_zps39ec5b81.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0809_zpsbe406749.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0809_zpsbe406749.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0816_zpsfca8bcf2.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0816_zpsfca8bcf2.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0817_zps8097bd6b.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0817_zps8097bd6b.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Scanned a copy of the new setting sheet... maybe Arn0 can get a editable PDF file done up for us soon... since I have sent it to him to work his magic on it:D

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/SCANEDTRF201xmwsettingsheet_zpsd5729f1c.jpeg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/SCANEDTRF201xmwsettingsheet_zpsd5729f1c.jpeg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Arn0 Hooked it up:D


http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201XMW_EditableSetupSheet.pdf

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Hi guys,

Will be posting updates and new products on facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/tstarracingproducts

Chassis protectors for 503 and 201 XMW are now in stock.

[SiR_Dave]

Hi guys,

Will be posting updates and new products on facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/tstarracingproducts

Chassis protectors for 503 and 201 XMW are now in stock.

Simply bad ass!!!:thumbsup:

Sent you a PM as well Fredrik:woot:

[taomo]

About the TRF201 Alum Rear Upright 0º, 0.5º or 1º, what is the best choice for the 201XMW?

Best regards

[xfactor]

Hi all,

Just thought I would post pics of my MAN BEAST 201 XMW. All ready for testing Saturday on grass............:D Some very nice little changes made to this kit over the Standard TRF 201 kit.

Click pictures to enlarge.......:D

[andoiwebb]

Very nice, but I can see a couple of blue bits you're missing. Hope you get them soon :( :( :( :(

[SiR_Dave]

About the TRF201 Alum Rear Upright 0º, 0.5º or 1º, what is the best choice for the 201XMW?

Best regards

0º:thumbsup:

[SiR_Dave]

Looking very good there... let us know how you like it once you get it out on the track..
I have about 20 pack though mine and it keeps getting better and better every outting:wub

Hi all,

Just thought I would post pics of my MAN BEAST 201 XMW. All ready for testing Saturday on grass............:D Some very nice little changes made to this kit over the Standard TRF 201 kit.

Click pictures to enlarge.......:D

[taomo]

0º:thumbsup:

Thanks Dave! :)

[Roel]

About the TRF201 Alum Rear Upright 0º, 0.5º or 1º, what is the best choice for the 201XMW?

Best regards

The "best choice" depends on what surface you are running and what you want from the car.

More rear toe-in makes the rear of the car more stable, and wanting to go in a straight line.

If you drive on astro, you probably don't need more rear toe-in since the back won't break out easily anyway, if you drive on a slippery/dusty track it can help to put some more toe-in on.

[Aussie Top Force]

In respect of the rear hubs, another option is to swap the 0.5 hubs and you get 0.25 degrees, i.e. run left on right and right on left. This worked well on my standard 201, with standard 3 degree front suspension hanger.

Note I run on loose clay track.

On my XR/XM I have 0 degree aluminium hubs but use the XA front suspension hanger, which I believe is standard on XMW.

[xfactor]

Looking very good there... let us know how you like it once you get it out on the track..
I have about 20 pack though mine and it keeps getting better and better every outting:wub

Will do Dave.

Having owned the Tamiya 201 Gen2 and Gen3 Vegas, it will be a good benchmark. But already looking at the XMW you can see a lot of likenesses to both Gen2 and Gen3 so should be very good.........;)

[taomo]

Thanks for the comments! The 201XMW will be used in astro tracks and sugared clay tracks basically.

Best regards

[guinness]

Guys wondering if the dex210 front C hubs would fit on front arms. Ideas? What front wheels dish are u guy using?

[Rossi_14]

Guys wondering if the dex210 front C hubs would fit on front arms. Ideas? What front wheels dish are u guy using?

The DEX210 uses 3mm C-Hub axles and Tamiya 2.6mm ones. If you can make inserts for the Durango with 2.6mm the width of the Tamiya wishbone is big enough to fit the C-Hub.

Hope that helps.

[Rossi_14]

Hello,

finished my car build today and hoping to test the car this weekend.

Bodyshell will be the Kit body but proline shell will be ordered soon.

[SiR_Dave]

:woot::wub

[lcpvcce]

Looks great Mark....................:thumbsup::thumbsup:

[lcpvcce]

Hi all,

Just thought I would post pics of my MAN BEAST 201 XMW. All ready for testing Saturday on grass............:D Some very nice little changes made to this kit over the Standard TRF 201 kit.

Click pictures to enlarge.......:D

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Aussie Top Force]

Hello,

finished my car build today and hoping to test the car this weekend.

Bodyshell will be the Kit body but proline shell will be ordered soon.

Nice studio photos! The want factor just scaled up a bit!:woot:

[micholix]

Could someone please tell me, how thick the aluminium chassis of the 210XMW is?


Thx in advance!

[Roel]

Could someone please tell me, how thick the aluminium chassis of the 210XMW is?


Thx in advance!

3 mm

[micholix]

3 mm

Thanks, for the fast answer!:thumbsup:

Edit: it looks much thicker on the close up pics!?

[SiR_Dave]

3.1mm give or take .2mm:D

[micholix]

3.1mm give or take .2mm:D

:lol::D

[SiR_Dave]

Here is a good starting point for you guys that run on Astroturf:)

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201XMW_SatoshiMaezumi_201406/setupen.jpg

[SiR_Dave]

Just got Fredrik's Chassis protector for the 201xmw.. and the fitment is second to none!!! :thumbsup:... Now to test it out tomorrow:woot::)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0844_zpsa18728e4.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0844_zpsa18728e4.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0846_zps9b8bdaa4.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0846_zps9b8bdaa4.jpg.html)
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa24/DOHC_SiR/DSC_0842_zpscb348eba.jpg (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/DOHC_SiR/media/DSC_0842_zpscb348eba.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

So far 3 practice days on Fredrik's chassis protectors and they are holding up like new!! Very Durable!!:woot::wub

[guinness]

whats the advantage in using the B5 knuckles on the front ???is only the C hub part of the B5 or the upright to?thanx
some more questions

1.......whats the part number for front arms?? 51414 says the manual but i think there is a mistake. Are the same arm that are fitted on the 503?do both cars share the same front and rear arms?

2.....if i buy a front spare shock tower comes with a unusable rear tower,right ??what part number for rear carbon one?

3.....can i use the rear 12mm ally wheels hex hubs like the one on the 503 on the rear ??whats the part number?

4....front wheels hubs ......do they only take tamiya wheels?how about using other brands wheels?

thanx

[SiR_Dave]

whats the advantage in using the B5 knuckles on the front ???is only the C hub part of the B5 or the upright to?thanx
some more questions

1.......whats the part number for front arms?? 51414 says the manual but i think there is a mistake. Are the same arm that are fitted on the 503?do both cars share the same front and rear arms?

2.....if i buy a front spare shock tower comes with a unusable rear tower,right ??what part number for rear carbon one?

3.....can i use the rear 12mm ally wheels hex hubs like the one on the 503 on the rear ??whats the part number?

4....front wheels hubs ......do they only take tamiya wheels?how about using other brands wheels?

thanx

I use the B5 complete front end for durability/tune ability.... and the 12mm hex front wheel is nice too:D

1) Standard front arm that comes with the XMW is 51411 and it uses the DB01 standard rear arm 51313

2) Yes you have to get the towers as a set:thumbdown:.. the XMW rear shock tower is part #3404036

3) Yes you can use the TRF503 rear hex.. the part # is 9804801

4) Yes they only take Tamiya wheels... but Tamiya makes an option so that you can use B4 front bearing wheels as well... but it's much easier to convert the front end to the B5 or RB6 hex conversion..:yawn:

[guinness]

Thanx for the in infos ,any chances you could provide the parts number for the B5 front end please?
The hubs 9804801 are only avaible on tamiya USA??? Any other alternative? Thanx

[Chris]

The hubs 9804801 are only avaible on tamiya USA??? Any other alternative? Thanx

http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?incl=9&sfirma=alle&sbest=9804801+&mth3=sinfo

[sosidge]

Just finishing off my build. Hit a small snag with the electronics fitment.

Will I regret grinding off the extra holes at the front of the side guards, just behind the servo? Can't see any use for them in the kit but is there an option to use them for something? Grinding will give me precious extra millimetres of space...

The other thing is that "square" LiPo packs don't fit well. Firstly, they won't drop in place because of the rear brace being in the way. Secondly, the battery strap obscures the plugs and you would have to remove quite a lot of material to access them. So this pack will have to go back and be replaced by a pair of saddles - I was trying to avoid having extra wires in the car but it hasn't worked out!

At least the wires from the ESC are the same length as for my old B4, should make swapping over to the "spare" car a bit easier.

[guinness]

How about turning the lipo around ...with connection at the back ??

[sosidge]

Makes no difference.

[SiR_Dave]

The other thing is that "square" LiPo packs don't fit well. Firstly, they won't drop in place because of the rear brace being in the way. Secondly, the battery strap obscures the plugs and you would have to remove quite a lot of material to access them. So this pack will have to go back and be replaced by a pair of saddles - I was trying to avoid having extra wires in the car but it hasn't worked out!


There is a way around this when using the square pack .. of you replace the rear posts that hold the carbon suppor in the back with Tamiya part# 19804306, they are a little bit thinner in Diameter and they allow the Square pack to be installed and you also do not have to use as many spacers as well... it offers about 2.5mm more clearance for the battery to be installed.

I'll take a picture later so show the difference..:)

[sosidge]

What about the holes on the side guards, is it safe to grind them away?

[guinness]

SiR_Dave are this the right B5 axle to use 91406 ?!??
what about the bearings, do the bearings coming with the kit fit the b5 hubs?
THANX

PS : rant.......wtf with tamiya when they create problems were there should be not ???? Who ever disigned the battery holder didn't realise that using short lipos or saddle packs for that matter would create a problem ? I noticed that peoples do shave away some of the cf from the battery holder around the connection????.....rant finished��

[SiR_Dave]

What about the holes on the side guards, is it safe to grind them away?
Why would you need to do that.. is there fitment issues with the square pack:eh?:..?

[sosidge]

Why would you need to do that.. is there fitment issues with the square pack:eh?:..?

More space for the speedo and receiver.

[SiR_Dave]

SiR_Dave are this the right B5 axle to use 91406 ?!??
what about the bearings, do the bearings coming with the kit fit the b5 hubs?
THANX


You need to following AE parts to make the front hubs work

91400
91402
91406
91398
91394

[SiR_Dave]

More space for the speedo and receiver.

What Speedo and reciever..? There should be pleanty of room unless you have some older equipment...also are you talking about the two little front tabs that done have a hole for screwing it into the chasis... if thats the case go for it and cut them..:)

[ralphee]

Guys would anyone have any starter points for a high grip carpet set up?

Bests.....lee

[SiR_Dave]

Guys would anyone have any starter points for a high grip carpet set up?

Bests.....lee

I'd be willing to bet that that one I posted above from Satoshi would work pretty well since it was a Astroturf/ Carpet mix that that set up is from:)

[ralphee]

Ill give it a go then Dave thanks buddy, first time out in 2wd, and i bagged Marks awesome car, so im dying to get it on the track now!

Lee

[sosidge]

Don't rule out the kit setup either, I just raced mine for the first time tonight on an indoors multi-surface track and although I had very low expectations of the kit setup, assuming it was for dirt, it was actually REALLY nice to drive. No grabbiness, no tippiness, just very settled and smooth. Perhaps a smidge of mid-corner understeer, all I did during the night was lean the front shocks in one hole and increase the punch on my speed controller. And the shocks make the jump landings butter...

This is with Minipins on the rear and LP cut staggers on the front. 21mm ride height. Gear diff.

I'm going to try the Satoshi setup in the near future, it is VERY different from kit so it will be interesting to see what it is like.

[patez]

Don't rule out the kit setup either, I just raced mine for the first time tonight on an indoors multi-surface track and although I had very low expectations of the kit setup, assuming it was for dirt, it was actually REALLY nice to drive. No grabbiness, no tippiness, just very settled and smooth. Perhaps a smidge of mid-corner understeer, all I did during the night was lean the front shocks in one hole and increase the punch on my speed controller. And the shocks make the jump landings butter...

This is with Minipins on the rear and LP cut staggers on the front. 21mm ride height. Gear diff.

I'm going to try the Satoshi setup in the near future, it is VERY different from kit so it will be interesting to see what it is like.


This is what i found out too. I was racing on a medium-highgrip national race on clay. The car was very smooth and easy to drive, also when the clay started to dry out. Only trouble was a bit of understeer and rear bottoming out on steep jumps. So i changed the rear piston from 1.7 to 1.6 and jumping was just right after that.

I also drove a few laps at the dusty home track and its incredible how well this handles on low grip too!

[ralphee]

Thanks both, ill try that, not running it for another week as I'm away, but ill start at the beginning. Ok being a pedantic/OCD fool, spare chassis (i cover every avenue lol) I'm betting along with the side guards they can only be had in the XM kit or XR conversion set? Thing is, the conversion set is close to the price of a full XM kit, would it be a part i could keep just in case i bend one or break a side guard? Or does that sound like overkill? I only ask due to the subject matter being of a limited factory run.
Im kinda throwing everything at this car now haha.

lee

[Kimo]

Ordered mine this this week in HK. Hope it gets here next week.
Already got a new HW (blue) V3.1 and a HW V10 6.5t here to fit in when it gets here.
Sold my Xray XB4 2wd for it, as i ve Always been a T-fan. I used to have a TRF201XM/XR but sold it as there werent any gear diffs for it that time.

[sosidge]

Thanks both, ill try that, not running it for another week as I'm away, but ill start at the beginning. Ok being a pedantic/OCD fool, spare chassis (i cover every avenue lol) I'm betting along with the side guards they can only be had in the XM kit or XR conversion set? Thing is, the conversion set is close to the price of a full XM kit, would it be a part i could keep just in case i bend one or break a side guard? Or does that sound like overkill? I only ask due to the subject matter being of a limited factory run.
Im kinda throwing everything at this car now haha.

lee

The xm/xr chassis not the same as the xmw so don't waste you time and money sourcing one

[Aussie Top Force]

Thanks both, ill try that, not running it for another week as I'm away, but ill start at the beginning. Ok being a pedantic/OCD fool, spare chassis (i cover every avenue lol) I'm betting along with the side guards they can only be had in the XM kit or XR conversion set? Thing is, the conversion set is close to the price of a full XM kit, would it be a part i could keep just in case i bend one or break a side guard? Or does that sound like overkill? I only ask due to the subject matter being of a limited factory run.
Im kinda throwing everything at this car now haha.

lee

Stellamodels is releasing spares, including chassis for the 503 now, so hopefully, same sort of spares will be released for the XMW, XR/XM platforms. Whilst the chassis are different there are many common parts. Pitty there isn't an XR kit, as mine is great on tracks not so suited to mid motor cars. It was interesting watching the recent Euros and seeing the rear motor cars getting some attention again!

[ralphee]

Guys thanks for the replies, didnt realise the plates were different MW kit, duh lol, ill hold out for Stella, could be a safe bet seeing as 503 gear is now being listed!

Bests.....lee

[sosidge]

If you contact one of the Japan based stores they might be able to get the spare for you since it has an 8-digit number.

[ralphee]

Do you have said number buddy? Im away this week, would like to get a message to them in the meantime though!

Bests....lee

[sosidge]

Not to hand but it is in the manual.

[Juicy74]

Hi guys,
I am considering getting the 201xmw and have afew questions I was hoping you guys can help me with.

1. What is plastic quality like?

2. How much slop is there on the joining parts (I have a B5 and there is quite abit of slop, although less than the B4 series. I also have a Schumacher SV2 and there is very very little slop and plastic quality and durability is stunning)

3. Does the car run better on saddles or shorties?

4. You had to pay ridiculous amounts of money for some basic tuning on the Schumacher cars, unlike AE where many of these tuning options were available in the kit. What is Tamiya like?

5. Any issues with the turnbuckles? I hear they can come loose and the camber settings change.

Thanks in advance, fellas. Its a really expensive buggy and I wanna be sure I'm not going to regret the decision. I'm really happy with my Schumacher SV2 and the AE B5 but the 201xmw is too sexy to pass.

[discostu]

I wouldn't bother if you have a b5 get a b5m and the additional grub screws to take the slop out of the hubs etc.

At least you will be able to get parts for the AE cars and they won't randomly discontinue the car unlike Tamiya.

This is my opinion it's up to you

[Aussie Top Force]

Hi guys,
I am considering getting the 201xmw and have afew questions I was hoping you guys can help me with.

1. What is plastic quality like?

2. How much slop is there on the joining parts (I have a B5 and there is quite abit of slop, although less than the B4 series. I also have a Schumacher SV2 and there is very very little slop and plastic quality and durability is stunning)

3. Does the car run better on saddles or shorties?

4. You had to pay ridiculous amounts of money for some basic tuning on the Schumacher cars, unlike AE where many of these tuning options were available in the kit. What is Tamiya like?

5. Any issues with the turnbuckles? I hear they can come loose and the camber settings change.

Thanks in advance, fellas. Its a really expensive buggy and I wanna be sure I'm not going to regret the decision. I'm really happy with my Schumacher SV2 and the AE B5 but the 201xmw is too sexy to pass.

I don't have an XMW, but I have an XR/XM, currently running XR due to our track conditions, but essentially the same car other than a few differences. The quality is great, everything fits where it is supposed to and slop is minimal, nothing a shim or two wouldn't fix.

The XMW comes fairly high specced so you don't need to buy lots of up grades, maybe the spring set and aluminium rear hubs? You can check prices at Stella models and RC Mart against AE parts. Good thing is many AE parts from B5M will fit the XMW - see earlier in this thread. A big warning in respect of the Titanium Screw set for the 201 - the button heads are a bit soft, I turned stripped two screw heads this weekend rebuilding my car - had to use the dremel to cut the head to fit a flat head screw driver. This was due to thread lock, which is required to hold screws in aluminium posts and parts, otherwise they come lose too easily! I nearly lost the front suspension hanger (in the rear of the car) once as the screws loosened after a few runs! The standard screws are stronger. The only other gripe, minor though, is the shock bleed screw o-ring seal. It does it's best not to seat behind the screw to create a seal, it tends to bulge out. Nevertheless, my shocks aren't leaking!

In respect of the XR/XM, saddles work great. In respect of the XMW, Lee Martin used Saddles to take second at the worlds last year. However a lighter shorty might be best if you are running 17.5 class.

In the end if you want the car go for it! It may not offer any more performance though from what your B5M delivers.

[Juicy74]

Thanks for the replies guys. I am confident its a good car and will perform well but I think this one might just be a used once in awhile on carpet and spend most of its time sitting pretty on the shelf while I abuse the sv2 and b5m.:D

[patez]

B5M and XMW are in my eyes quite similar.. If you really look what was changed from AE centro to b5m.. Its much more like the cars which won (RB6) and came second (XMW) in the worlds.. Altought XMW is mid motor the weight bias is quite rearmotorish.. Also did you watch the Euros a week or two ago? 3 finns in the A main we're driving b5m, and the track was very low grip.. And it was the first time any of those guys got in to the a-main.

What I really like about the "new coming" of the midmotor is that XMW is very consistent for me, no matter the overall grip..Its more like a 4wd, you don't need to change everything when the grip changes a bit.. Just pick the right front tires..

Soo we've seen quite impressive results with the b5m aswell as XMW.. Its a pity that so few drive tamiya.. For me I havent had any trouble finding parts for my tamiyas. Majority of the parts are used in other kits too like 501/503/Durga/TA-06/F103 etc.. If tamiya discontinues something. Its usually easy to get the parts for years. Also they don't change plastics very often.. And the quality if of course top notch so why change them..

The new turnbuckles aren't as tough as the blue ones in the old 201 IMHO.. I have snapped a few.. Altought there's no trouble of bending or the threads coming of...

And yes, the XMW is quite well tuned up.. Maybe use better turnbuckles if you really want to spend some more money to it..:lol:

[guinness]

I wouldn't bother if you have a b5 get a b5m and the additional grub screws to take the slop out of the hubs etc.

At least you will be able to get parts for the AE cars and they won't randomly discontinue the car unlike Tamiya.

This is my opinion it's up to you
can you tell me the release date of the original 201 and when was discontinued ?just curious lol:eh?:

[sosidge]

OK, so having just spent HOURS putting the Satoshi astro/carpet setup on my car, a few things don't add up, mainly to do with shock length and ride height. The one that I don't have any way of achieving is the low ride height, and looking at the pics from the RCWORLD magazine it looks like he is using some black (possibly plastic) shock bottoms - any idea what they may be from?

[SiR_Dave]

From what I can tell he has two spring set ups...
front the pictures the springs are X-Gear Reds ( front and rear.. or whatever is close to a Tamiya Blue and the shock bottoms are more than likely Kyosho or AE )

Also since the springs are X-Gear.. and they are shorter.. this is how he can get the low ride height... unlike the Tamiya springs which limit you to about 22mm ride height depending on the battery that you use :bored:;)

[sosidge]

Thanks, that would explain it!

[Juicy74]

So with the B5 front conversion I can use B5 wheels... but can I just use jcon hex adapters for the rear n use B5 rear wheels too?

[SiR_Dave]

Thanks, that would explain it!

No problem

Let us know how the set up works out for you:)

[sosidge]

Well, I've run the setup once on a bumpy grass track and it wasn't up to much, hooking in the slow corners and very unsettled over the bumps. Dropped the rear oil to #300 (#400 with 1.6mm pistons seems way over damped) and moved the shock to the inner hole in the wishbone (which gives more droop and a softer wheel rate) and the car was a lot better.

I'll give the Satoshi setup another go at the indoor venue but to be honest I don't think I'll stick with it, the shock positions don't suit the Tamiya springs.

[Kimo]

Here's my TRF201XMW.
What parts do i need to order for a 12mm hex conversion at the back/front? And can u use the RB6 alu exotek wing mounts on this one?

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/538/ty9afy.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/eyty9afyj)

[guinness]

Wtf ...plastic????http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140801_193457_zpsxhfcq1jk.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140801_193457_zpsxhfcq1jk.jpg.html)

[xfactor]

Yes plastic diff gears. I changed my gears to the tamiya metal gears and also fitted the uprated tamiya orange/red orings as well.

[guinness]

Help ...I putted together the gear box but once I screw the motor plate the gears becomes a bit stiffer ???? What I'm doing wrong ?

[xfactor]

When building diff, there are 2 shims. 1 for the diff and 1 for the layshaft. These can be mixed up easy. Check you have correct shim on layshaft and that you havent put wrong one on.

[guinness]

The gear diff as no play ,I have not apply any shim to it !

[xfactor]

The shim is for the ball diff. This goes in between the 2 bearings when building the ball diff.

Ok you are using gear diff but you may have the wrong shim on layshaft which is allowing the gears to jamm up when you tighten the gearbox together. Just check you have used correct shim on the layshaft.

[guinness]

You are spot on ,thanx ,it was the wrong shim !
Stay in standby just in case lmao

[xfactor]

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[Origineelreclamebord]

Wtf ...plastic????

Don't underestimate the strength of plastic. With the right type and quality of plastic and a good mesh they will hold out just fine. Just try them to see if Tamiya did their homework, because the plastic parts have plenty of benefits over their metal counterparts.

[Kimo]

Were plastic gears in Xray xb4 also and they were super smooth
I dont mind plastic gears at all. Hope these are as good as them.

[guinness]

I'm fitting the rear ally hex's, I assume this way is not the right way is it lol
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140802_111332_zps69rm6bnj.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140802_111332_zps69rm6bnj.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

With the spacing of the rear Tamiya 503 hex's you will need to put a 1.5mm spacer on the inside vice on the outside like in the picture:)

I used part #19804372 for the correct spacing;)
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product/9804372.jpg

[guinness]

Inside between the two bearings ???

[ralphee]

Woohoo, just got back off holiday to find my Turnigy Lipo shorties fit a treat, gonna get this thing running now!
Just a Q, ive some sneaky leaking dampers, car was built by a demon builder, so im sure all is good on seals, anybody still use green slime etc to cure this! Oh, and, i love this car haha!

Lee

[SiR_Dave]

Inside between the two bearings ???

No put the spacer on the axel 1st then the bearing... I'll take a picture for you later to show you what I mean:)

[Rossi_14]

Hello guinness,
regarding your concerns about plastic gears.
here is a picture of mine after 25 battery use with a 8.5t on astro and grass.
i will put them back in and see how long they will last.

[ralphee]

They still look pristine!

Lee

[Nissemon]

Woohoo, just got back off holiday to find my Turnigy Lipo shorties fit a treat, gonna get this thing running now!
Just a Q, ive some sneaky leaking dampers, car was built by a demon builder, so im sure all is good on seals, anybody still use green slime etc to cure this! Oh, and, i love this car haha!

Lee

I had the same problem with the blue o-rings even with green slime. They leak badly already on the bench. No good as it will be impossible to get consistent rebound so threw them out immediately. Fitted kyosho red x-rings to mine as that is what I have used on TRF shocks before with great success. I have read good things about AE FT x-rings aswell so that might be worth a try if it is hard to find kyosho.

[ralphee]

Hmm, mine has the Kyosho Xrings fitted too buddy, i need to strip them and take a look methinks, see what the skinny is. Rears are the worst, just slowly seaps down while on the bench.

lee

[ralphee]

Meanwhile though, i finished my install, man i can't wait to run this!

lee
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/ralphee/20140803_123156_zps432c3985.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ralphee/media/20140803_123156_zps432c3985.jpg.html)

[ralphee]

Just ordered some TRF 50 durometer seals, see how they fair, im reading good things!

Lee

[SiR_Dave]

Just ordered some TRF 50 durometer seals, see how they fair, im reading good things!

Lee

Those are quite good... I use one 50 durometer on on the bottom and one x-ring on the top..... Also add an additional .1mm shim to what the instructions call for when building the shocks and I have yet to have an issue with the TRF damper leaking:D

[ralphee]

Thanks Dave, ill give that a go buddy! Lads Stella are now listing XMW parts too, i just ordered a lower deck and side rails, you never know i guess!

Bests.....lee

[sosidge]

Have to say that my shocks are built exactly as kit and don't leak at all. No green slime either, just shock oil on the seal as I build.

Most leaking issues are caused by having too much oil (or not enough air) in the shocks.

[patez]

The new kit orings have worked for me aswell. Altought i needed to build fresh shocks a few times. The o-rings might not be seated properly on new set. So I fill the shock full and close the air screw too. Then i press the shaft down firmly so i get hydrolock and see that it doesnt leak or suck air. After that make your rebound setting, remove extra oil, air bubbles etc. And throw away that airscrew o-ring. It doesn't hold in its place. :thumbsup:

[guinness]

What's the rear kick up with or without the 1mm spacer?
How about this spur gear cover?? Were to buy it? Thanxhttp://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/dex201/TRF201XMW/_20140805_065229_zpszb0cetyt.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/dex201/TRF201XMW/_20140805_065229_zpszb0cetyt.jpg.html)

[Origineelreclamebord]

Gear cover is DIY work with a body reamer, so you can make a nice pattern yourself :)

[guinness]

how about the rear anti squat?

[guinness]

First run was on sunday ,the car handled nicely with just the build stock setup ,straggling around the corners ...moved rear shocks up one hole on top and middle at bottom, front top went down one hole and car got better then only to realise at the end of the day that the servo saver was not tight enough lol,
Car was glued on the astro and won the B final, looking forward to the next meeting to see if the servo saver is now OK and will post a setup sheet .http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140803_115009_zpswsbpeqn0.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140803_115009_zpswsbpeqn0.jpg.html)

[guinness]

With the spacing of the rear Tamiya 503 hex's you will need to put a 1.5mm spacer on the inside vice on the outside like in the picture:)

I used part #19804372 for the correct spacing;)
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product/9804372.jpg

just a update......it was easier ....faster..cheaper to get the non tamiya brand and they fit good
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140808_235200_zpsdjwhp9t_edit_1407543185654_ zpscogig7ke.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140808_235200_zpsdjwhp9t_edit_1407543185654_ zpscogig7ke.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Great,:)
So I take it it worked out for you then:cry:

[ralphee]

Guys, Dave, can any of you give me a base idea on anti squat for carpet? Running kit settings on high bite, do you think i need any anti squat at all?

Bests.....Lee

[guinness]

If the track doesn't have a lot of bumpy bits 1 deg antisquat will be good plus you will gain more front steering.
I still have not find out what is the stock antisquat with the 1mm spacer as for manual,do u ?

[guinness]

Great,:)
So I take it it worked out for you then:cry:

Yes ,I'm sure that Im gone gain more steering now that the rear is not that wide anymore lol ,well I don't think 1mm was making any difference lol:lol:

[ralphee]

If the track doesn't have a lot of bumpy bits 1 deg antisquat will be good plus you will gain more front steering.
I still have not find out what is the stock antisquat with the 1mm spacer as for manual,do u ?

Its carpet with a few small ply jumps, just a couple at the moment, so the emphasis would be for a smooth high grip track, so maybe, start at 0 and work my way up?

lee

[guinness]

Sound that 0 would be a good start,let us know wile you going up how the car behave on the track...take some notes :lol::)

[guinness]

OK I managed to find the info I was looking for ,it seams that the antisquat as per manual build is 3.5 and you can go as lower as 2
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201X_AntiSquat/

[SiR_Dave]

I think that your understanding that link wrong..(maybe)
They are talking about the amount of toe that you are going to get once you add or remove shims .... Basically for the deg of anti squat it's per portioned via the mm size. But the XMW has a slightly different height front XA block... It's about .25mm shorter than the standard XA block.... So stock on the XMW should be around 1.75°~2° anti squat with the 2mm shm and subtract 1° per mm shim you take out.. And also as that link shows that your toe in will be less by about .5° Per mm as well:).... Well that was at least the way it was described to me before...
If the XM/XR/XMW has that amount of anti squat built into it that's just crazy compared to other buggies :lol:

[guinness]

The toe is changed by using the XA XB 3.0 block ,the spacers don't effect the toe at all .
The way I see it is

if I want to have 1 of antisquat would be like this :
J5 without spacer and J1 upside down with 1mm spacer under = 1

[sosidge]

I've taken some (very) rough measurements. Standard build gives 3deg of anti-squat. Each mm you take away from the front block takes away 1.5deg, so for zero antisquat run no spacer.

You also have the 1mm spacer under the rear block, you could put it on top to gain another 1.5 degress of anti-squat.

[guinness]

I've taken some (very) rough measurements. Standard build gives 3deg of anti-squat. Each mm you take away from the front block takes away 1.5deg, so for zero antisquat run no spacer.

You also have the 1mm spacer under the rear block, you could put it on top to gain another 1.5 degress of anti-squat.

So every 1mm spacer is 1.5deg.....
If tamiya was a real flesh and blood person I would want to strangle him lol

[SiR_Dave]

Good info to know..:thumbsup:

[guinness]

From tamiya USA driver ......
Antisquat:
With the 2mm spacer the car has 3deg
Without the 2mm the car has 1deg ,the block has a 1mm build in .
That's sorted lol


Now what bodyshells options for this car ???

[SiR_Dave]

Nice so without the spacer we have 1° anti squat.. Makes seance now:)

Now for body options ....
Proline Phantom RB6/201
JCONCEPTS Finisher for the RB6
Sweep Muzzle for RB6
JConcepts Silencer for RB6

[sosidge]

....

[xfactor]

Steve Haskins on here and haskins2004 on Ebay has just made a new shell for the 201xmw/rb6. Picture shows fitted to 201 xmw and Ive seen this shell. Looks very nice indeed.........;) just as another option for you all lads.

[patez]

Looks very nice. Had to order one right away. :thumbsup:

[ralphee]

Well first meet with the car, its beautiful, very stable, but, sods law, my ESC is causing my servo to glitch every time i pass through the neutral gate, its not servo etc etc, all this has been replaced, its this blooming HW V2.1, so off i go to buy another speedo, dangit, again, car is awesome, even in my hands, it felt really nice.

lee

[guinness]

Well first meet with the car, its beautiful, very stable, but, sods law, my ESC is causing my servo to glitch every time i pass through the neutral gate, its not servo etc etc, all this has been replaced, its this blooming HW V2.1, so off i go to buy another speedo, dangit, again, car is awesome, even in my hands, it felt really nice.

lee

Try a power cap before waisting money on a new ESC

[ralphee]

Tried it buddy, gotta be honest, i think power caps are complete bollocks, just ordered a blue V3.1, its all it can be, everything else has been swapped out, and my install is sound!

Lee

[Kimo]

Anyone interested in a nearly new TRF201XMW? Only driven 1 day on my local track. Using gear diff, ball diff build but not used. 3 Sets of wheels with it, with 1 set decent and 1 set new tires on it.
Some extra parts going with it, as arms, spur...

[guinness]

££££££??????

[Kimo]

And all spring sets included also.
320€. Will send across Europe, costs
For the buyer.

[guinness]

Guys ...I been trying to find a set of ally wheel hex that are not made by tamiya (impossible to find easily) that would fit the rear shaft ,any of you are currently have a set that fits?any links ? Do u selling it ?
Thanx

[Nissemon]

I'm using Proline AE B4 front hexes in the rear on my xmw. Used AE FT rollpins with a little piece of shrink wrap where it goes through the wheel axle and an additional 0.4mm spacer next to the existing 1mm spacer. Ends up being 0.2mm wider per side than plastic Losi hexes.

[guinness]

ok i went down to the hobby shop i went through all the hexs they had and i find a match.....Associated B4 rear hex ...they clamp with a bit of dremmel work SORTED

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m91/meguinness/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140826_133638_zps812ynfkt.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/user/meguinness/media/dex201/TRF201XMW/IMG_20140826_133638_zps812ynfkt.jpg.html)

[SiR_Dave]

Looks like if your going to use the rear clamping hex from the B4... it might be a little wide to where it might not allow for enough of the nut to lock down:eh?:..? have you tried the front ones yet.?? from the B4:cry:

[guinness]

I filed most of the lip at the back of the hex and enlarge slightly the gap for the pin, they fit good.
I believe that using the front thinner hex's will allow the wheel rim to touch the bearing and the hub?

[SiR_Dave]

Nice:thumbsup:

[DarkHawk]

What batteries fit trf201xmw chassis?

[guinness]

Saddle packs ....or full pack if using a low profile servo.😀

[guinness]

Are this supposed to remove the slop at the top of the shocks ???looking at the prices they must be gold plated

[Roel]

What batteries fit trf201xmw chassis?

Shortys, saddles or sticks all fit.

It is made for saddles tho, there are no further holes in the chassis to move the battery brace posts or to fit a battery stop like the conversion XM has.

So if you want to fit a shorty or stick you might have to drill holes to fit something to stop the lipo moving around.

[Roel]

Are this supposed to remove the slop at the top of the shocks ???looking at the prices they must be gold plated

They do on the small bore shocks.

In my experience, those, combined with the alu shock caps on the big bores only wears things out faster.

[guinness]

Shortys, saddles or sticks all fit.

It is made for saddles tho, there are no further holes in the chassis to move the battery brace posts or to fit a battery stop like the conversion XM has.

So if you want to fit a shorty or stick you might have to drill holes to fit something to stop the lipo moving around.

Using shorty is a problem because the battery holder it covers the + - connectors, but a full lipo size is OK it doesn't move mate.

[guinness]

They do on the small bore shocks.

In my experience, those, combined with the alu shock caps on the big bores only wears things out faster.

Yes I can see your point of view ,maybe some heat shrink around the the bushing to remove play ??

[D-StyleNZL]

Yes I can see your point of view ,maybe some heat shrink around the the bushing to remove play ??


Thats all I do at the moment.

Thou, Ive been playing around with some AE bushes...

[guinness]

Thats all I do at the moment.

Thou, Ive been playing around with some AE bushes...
Done the same today but no luck

[Juicy74]

How bad is the play on the shocks?

[SiR_Dave]

How bad is the play on the shocks?

Not enough to loose and sleep over :lol:

[Juicy74]

Not enough to loose and sleep over :lol:

Thank god...

[Juicy74]

I filed most of the lip at the back of the hex and enlarge slightly the gap for the pin, they fit good.
I believe that using the front thinner hex's will allow the wheel rim to touch the bearing and the hub?

Will the B5 hexes fit using the same process?

[Kimo]

Still for sale, nearly new XMW with spares and 2 AB bodies.

300€.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/745/TwrMwn.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/kpTwrMwnj)

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/538/ty9afy.jpg (http://imageshack.com/f/eyty9afyj)

[patez]

Here's my XMW with new body. (haskins2004 in ebay). Sorry about the car being a bit dirty. Fits nicely, altought it takes time to cut it properly because there are no guides in the body.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16237957/trf/xmw1.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16237957/trf/xmw2.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/16237957/trf/xmw3.jpg

[SiR_Dave]

Interesting shape on that body:)

[guinness]

Patez It seems u been belly up a few times lol,the rear towers have been beaten hard lol

[patez]

Belly up and wet clay. It really sticks. But i can't remember breaking the towers neither on the XR or this new XMW _outdoor_. :thumbsup:

[guinness]

BTW are u guys using different shocks pistons then stock one ?I find that no matter what springs I use the shocks feels very springy compared to other buggies.
I'm using 38 and 32 shock oil.

[Aussie Top Force]

BTW are u guys using different shocks pistons then stock one ?I find that no matter what springs I use the shocks feels very springy compared to other buggies.
I'm using 38 and 32 shock oil.

Springy? On or off the car? And what springs do you use?

I have big bores on XR/XM and 502X. I have found that I only need 32WT with black spring in front and 30 in rear with blue spring on the XR/XM medium bite clay track. If it was sugared I'd run XM with yellow springs rear. The car would be over damped with thicker oil. BTW 1.6 pistons all round.

I also use 5440 saddle packs, which would be heavier than a shorty pack.

[patez]

I would suggest 1.6 pistons too. It also jumps better and doesnt bottom out as easily. Kit springs have worked for me. Oils are rouggly the same as David suggests. Somehow the smaller piston hole seems to work better in most conditions (vice thicker oil).

[Fredrik Emilsson]

Very nice looking buggy! :)
It´s supposed to look like you race it!;)

Have you guys had any issues with the turnbuckles?

A friend of mine have broken 3.

I´ve had no such problems on my 503 or 201 even after some pretty hard crashes.

[Nordstrom]

Who sells the 201xm in eu. Dosent seem to find a shop.

[Fredrik Emilsson]

In sweden you have prorc.se