Team Tekin Q&A

[stumpiey]

Hi

does anyone know the kv rating of the 13.5 so i can work out weather to go up or down with my gearing

cheers

[ianjoyner]

You can simply change reverse strenght and increase it's power. Same goes for decreasing the brake strength.

Timing does affect the speed slightly but not as much as you'd think.

Thanks I think I found the main problem. I've been running in the Fwd/Rev-no-delay motor type, when I tried going back to Fwd/Rev-delay the brakes were much smoother. So it's as though when the reverse delay is turned off you never really get brakes, it just goes straight into reverse, even when you moving forwards? Is this supposed to happen?

I only seemed to have smooth brakes in the reverse delay mode?

[Randy p]

Yes that's exactly what will happen, instant reverse.

You should have good smooth brakes in forward only also.

[markwilliamson2001]

Hi,

I have a Tekin RS, with a Losi 8.5 Motor, in a RC10B4. I am looking for a starting point on the settings, when running indoors on carpet. I am running 81/25 gearing. I do not have a hotwire, and am a little confused by the lights system at present. Does it go: 1, 1&2, 2, 2&3 etc etc, or is this completely wrong?

Things I really need to know are:

Drag Brake (DB)
Brake Strength (BS)
Neutral Width (NW)
Current Limiter (LM)

Also, what would I change things to if the track was a little slippery (e.g. Worksop etc)?

Thanks,

[Lowie]

I installed the new software (v203) on a laptop and have problems with the ADVANCED-button not functioning.
(the extra menu does not fold/slide open)
Anyone advice?

[DCM]

I had that problem the first time I ran it, the second time it worked fine.

[chris_dono]

hey guys, anyone running an X12 10.5 on 203 in 2wd ? Care to share a starting point ?

I know for 6.5 and below it's more a case of dual mode, but wanted to have a play with 10.5 and see what that's like.

I've started out with
start rpm: 5000 (near as i can get it)
end rpm: 25000
turbo: off
boost: 30

geared at 83/20

[DCM]

drop your start rpm to around 2500 and the end RPM to about 12000 and use a little boost.

[Lowie]

does a motor-ESC-combo run more efficient when running sensored compared to sensorless or dualmode? I.e. will it run cooler?


And why running dualmode in the first place? I run dualmode when running offroad (where i do not need all the tinkering with ESC-setups) as I thought it would be safer as we run the risk of having a sensorwire-contats being disturbed by mod, dirt ...

[chris_dono]

drop your start rpm to around 2500 and the end RPM to about 12000 and use a little boost.

thanks, will change it tonight :)

[DCM]

it stops the motor feeling a little flat in the mid range, plus run the motor timing at 0' to get torque for initial spool up.

[DCM]

does a motor-ESC-combo run more efficient when running sensored compared to sensorless or dualmode? I.e. will it run cooler?


And why running dualmode in the first place? I run dualmode when running offroad (where i do not need all the tinkering with ESC-setups) as I thought it would be safer as we run the risk of having a sensorwire-contats being disturbed by mod, dirt ...

if you run in sensored, and you lose your sensor wire, the esc reverts to sensorless, same in Dual Drive. Sensored can give you a lot more RPM, it will run a little cooler but the motor becomes harder to gear, and if you get the settings wrong, in sensored, you will have a screaming mod motor!!

[Lowie]

if you run in sensored, and you lose your sensor wire, the esc reverts to sensorless, same in Dual Drive. Sensored can give you a lot more RPM, it will run a little cooler but the motor becomes harder to gear, and if you get the settings wrong, in sensored, you will have a screaming mod motor!!

Aha, thx ... but then, what is the purpose, advantage of dualmode?? Just to make it easier on the gearing-choice?

[DCM]

Dual Mode makes the mod motors (6.5, 5.5) a lot easier to drive.

[chris_dono]

drop your start rpm to around 2500 and the end RPM to about 12000 and use a little boost.

Worked a charm thanks :) was quicker than some 6.5's out there today at the petit race :) Ended up going to 40 boost for the final to see if it made a difference, but not much in the end, think 30 is good enough tbh. motor never got hotter than 35C all day


Going to run it tomorrow in 4WD with a 9t Delta (about a 5.0) on dual mode (80 timing) and see how it gets on with that.

[Lowie]

Dual Mode makes the mod motors (6.5, 5.5) a lot easier to drive.and why is that?

sorry if I have all these questions but I still was not able to understand all the different new parameters that the v203 software offers.
boost, turbo, start rpm, end rpm ...

what does start at this start rpm?
Is "end rpm" the maximum rpm the motor will do?
What is the difference between boost and turbo?

[DCM]

OK, let me explain what the 'Advanced' settings do, which only work in 'sensored' mode.

When you select 'Sensored' you have two sliders in the main window, being 'Timing Boost' and Turbo. Timing Boost is the amount of timing that gets added to the motor over an RPM range. Turbo will only come in, after a set delay when you have hit full throttle.

Start and End RPM, defines the RPM range in which you want the Timing Boost added onto the motor, so if you only have a small RPM range between 'Start' and 'End', will mean the amount of timing boost, that you have selected, will come in hard, making your motor feel aggressive. If you raise the End RPM up, you are increasing the RPM range that the timing boost comes in, making the motor feel smoother.

Timing Ramp and Turbo Delay, are all to do with full throttle Timing Adjustment. If you sent Turbo to 10' on the slider, set the timing delay to .5 and timing ramp to 1, that will mean, that when you hit full throttle, the esc will wait 0.5 sec and then will start adding on 10' of timing, with Ramp 1 being the softest setting.

If you were to set Turbo at 10', delay to .2 and timing ramp to 3, that will give you a timing increase of 10', after 0.2 sec of full throttle, and bring it in 3 times faster than at ramp 1 setting.

Obviously, gearing is different, depending on these settings, but it makes a big difference also.

I hope that makes things a lot clearer, but if you need any clarification, no problem, I will try to explain it better.

[Lowie]

thx DCM :)

Timing Boost is the amount of timing that gets added to the motor over an RPM rangenow ... about Timing boost. What does the added timing do exactly. What does it change or in what way will the motor react differently.


I think one of the things that make it not so clear to me, is maybe that with timing, once the timing as in time is meant (a difference in time) .. and maybe on other occasions the timing of the motor: changing the position of the spools or magnets in a motor, in a degree of an angle.
Or am i completely wrong here?

[edit]
I just remember this.
When I drove in our local Tamiya-cup, we had two types of motors that we could use, a red 23T and a blue 23T-tamiya motor (brushed). The blue one had good torque (=acceleration, power ... am I correct?) and the red one had less torque but went higher in revs, and thus able to achieve higher top speed.
I think it had to do with a difference in brushes, and thus a difference in how the juice (electricity) was send to the spools.
Does a change in timing provoce the engine to have lots of Torque at low rpm (revs) .. and change it's characteristics so that it has a higher max rpm also, thus giving the benefits of both.

[mark79]

As i understand it the esc adds more timing later so you can get the benefits of a decent low end torque from having your motor physically set to o degree. You just dial in how it comes in and when using the sliders?

[carborush]

The Futba radios must have the throttle channel reversed. Make sure that ANY abs function is turned off completely. You can turn it back on after you've calibrated.


hi
i have just bought a RS pro esc
when calibrating with my futaba 3vcs (with spektrum module) the forward is reverse and reverse is forward like described above
solved it by reversing the throttle channel on the transmitter
but : is this normal ? it feels odd ? am I doing something wrong ?
is there no other way of reversing the throttle in the esc ?

[Randy p]

Motor Timing: Launch

Motor timing is an absolute. It’s effective throughout the entire range of the cars speed. This is the adjustment that should be made for the first few feet of car travel.


Timing Boost: Acceleration

The ideal start/end rpm for boost will depend on the platform/chassis being used along with track size and motor wind. The size of the range will also affect how the car pulls. A narrow rpm range will effectively produce a faster rate of boost vs. a wide range will have a slower rate of boost:

1000rpm start / 6000 end with 50 timing boost will provide 10 degrees of boost per 1000 rpm vs.
1000rpm start / 11000 end with 50 timing boost will provide 5 degrees of boost per 1000 rpm.

Spec Motors:

So far pan cars are using between 1,000 and 7,000 on most tracks. This is due to not having a gearbox and being direct drive.

TC’s are showing a useable range of 2,000 to 13,000 on most tracks. This is due to having a reduction gear box.

Offroad spec is showing a range from 5,000 to 20,000 is ideal on most tracks.

Turbo Timing: Top speed

Turbo Delay: This is the time that must expire at wide open throttle to engage turbo. This is NOT dependant on RPM’s in any way. Ideally this should be NO lower than .2 and in all likelyhood will be set at .4 or more. Tracks that have straights less than 80ft will likely NOT need turbo.

Turbo Ramp Rate: This is the literal ramp rate of whatever your turbo timing is set. So:

A turbo setting of 20 will give you the following reaction:
1.0 Ramp rate = 20 degrees in 1 second applied
2.0 Ramp rate = 20 degrees in .5 seconds applied
3.0 Ramp rate = 20 degrees in .30 seconds applied

So if you run timing it will just change the total applied, not the speed at which it’s applied.

[chris_dono]

hi
i have just bought a RS pro esc
when calibrating with my futaba 3vcs (with spektrum module) the forward is reverse and reverse is forward like described above
solved it by reversing the throttle channel on the transmitter
but : is this normal ? it feels odd ? am I doing something wrong ?
is there no other way of reversing the throttle in the esc ?


no, that's normal. Futaba throttle channel has to be reversed.

[rob84]

Hi, i had a few problems today, can anyone help. Running a cat sx indoor on a 83/24 with an rs esc and 7.5 vortex sensored. had problems with losing throtle for a couple of seconds then coming back on and off again, only really started after around 2 and half minutes in to the race.
Could some one give me a starting set up for the speedo if poss.
Cheers Rob

[DCM]

are you using spektrum?

[rob84]

no mate using futaba 3gr fs

[DCM]

what cells you running?

[rob84]

5000mah 20c orion platinum

[DCM]

make sure, initially, that you got the lipo cut off set right, what radio are you running?

[rob84]

running futaba 40mhz radio, im pretty sure it was somthink to do with the setup of the speedo i changed it from dual mode to sensored and this calmed it down slightly but the motor is still getting hot.

[DCM]

how many lights are you getting on, with the temp indicator?

[rob84]

not sure as i only found out about the temp meter a few hours ago. what should i look for? do i just pull it in when it starts to do it and check? cheers

[HarlowS]

Yes, as soon as you have finished racing pull it in and see how many lights flash, if your getting 4 or less then your fine, 5 is ok too, 6 your close to the limit.

[rob84]

cheers if it is that, is it worth me down gearing it slightly? Or is there anythink i can do to the settings that would stop it. cheers

[DCM]

are you running the RS or RS Pro?

[HarlowS]

You really shouldnt be struggling after 2/3 mins. What version firmware are you running ?? Can you list your speedo setup ?? Are you setting it with hotwrire i presume ?

[rob84]

running the rs, couldnt post the set up a a guy at the club did it for me he put his setup on it. but he runs 2wd. he said he updated it to the latest firmwear. could that be the problem?

[DCM]

right, you may be hitting the thermal limit of the RS, you need to look at running a fan over the solder posts.

[rob84]

i have heat shrink around the posts could that be problem?

[DCM]

it won't help, as they are the heatsinks, but a 7,5 is going to push the limits, get the heatshrink off, and a fan running over the posts, maybe running in sensored will help it run a little cooler.

[rob84]

cheers, would it help if i adjust any of the settings with the hotwire?

[DCM]

yes, you would need the hotwire to get into sensored mode.

[mark79]

Is the capacitor fitted? is it on the right way round?

The reason i ask is i run a Speed Passion capacitor (4 in a row one) and it runs way cooler. So i'm thinking the opposite could be the problem.

Or not :confused:

[rob84]

a guy a the club has a laptop i can use, could you give a setup that i could try nxt week? capacitor is defo on and the right way. cheers

[Randy p]

Try running dual mod with the Timing Advance at 90 to start out. Make sure you're running V203 software.

You also MUST run the cap on the esc. Remove the shrink wrap on the solder posts too. Those are our "heatsinks."

[Lowie]

had the same issue but it turned out to be the on/off-switch that began to malfunction, as little and simple as it is !?!

[Randy p]

Well the switch is easy to replace as long as there is some leads left. Just bend the tab and push it out of the housing...

[burgie]

Can someone please offer a settings suggestion for running the tekin in a pred x11 with a 5.5 motor please?

I have software version 203 installed at the moment. If possible, I would like suggestions for sensored and dual mode please.

On top of that lot, can somebody please explain the benefits of timing advance? If I run no timing advance is that better than running max timing advance? Will either damage the motor?

There are sooooo many variables in this it seems almost impossible to get right!

[mikeyscott]

Just got a v3 6.5 Speed Passion in the car and ran it for the first time last Sunday on a damp astro turf track.

Now I'm finding it's got stupid amounts of punch. Therefore change:

Timing?
Current Limit?
Throttle Profile?

At the moment I've reduced the timing and tempted to change the throttle profile to a less aggressive map. I'm on a standard map at the mo.

[DCM]

change the physical timing on the motor, the lower the motor timing, the more punch, you could also change the profile from 3 to 2, to make it a little more controllable, also, current limit will help, I never run any more than 95, often at 90.

[DCM]

Can someone please offer a settings suggestion for running the tekin in a pred x11 with a 5.5 motor please?

I have software version 203 installed at the moment. If possible, I would like suggestions for sensored and dual mode please.

On top of that lot, can somebody please explain the benefits of timing advance? If I run no timing advance is that better than running max timing advance? Will either damage the motor?

There are sooooo many variables in this it seems almost impossible to get right!

5.5 in off-road, I would not suggest you go down the route of sensored unless you really REALLY need to.

Gearing, as Kev, he runs that car.

Setup, Dual mode

Timing 80
profile 3
limiter 90
neutral width 8

[mikeyscott]

change the physical timing on the motor, the lower the motor timing, the more punch, you could also change the profile from 3 to 2, to make it a little more controllable, also, current limit will help, I never run any more than 95, often at 90.

I have changed the current limit to 80 at the moment and timing to 50.

I'll be going to throttle profile 2 too.

I don't think my new 40C LIPOs are helping either..

[DCM]

unfortunately, the new software creates more power, so you may have to go down a turn on the motor, lol.... bummer huh!!

[mikeyscott]

unfortunately, the new software creates more power, so you may have to go down a turn on the motor, lol.... bummer huh!!

You are joking :(

Just sold my 7.5 that I had in the Cat SX as I won a 6.5 at Petit RC

Time to loose more timing then!

Changing my gearing too to 83 / 23 to loose some of the kick

[DCM]

Can you adjust the timing on your motor?

[mikeyscott]

Can you adjust the timing on your motor?

I think so, I'll have to check the destructions.

Going to order a Speed Passion v3 8.5 for the Cougar SV which will also be running a tekin RS Pro and Nosram 40C LIPOs

[DCM]

if you can adjust the timing, increase it, as it will reduce the initial torque, and running in dual mode, it won't affect the timing.

[mikeyscott]

if you can adjust the timing, increase it, as it will reduce the initial torque, and running in dual mode, it won't affect the timing.

Oh, more timing ok. I'll look at that. I think they come with some as standard out of the factory.

[DCM]

most do, but if you want to reduce the torque, increase timing, if you want more, reduce the timing on the motor.

[BagofSkill]

Can anyone help on setup and maybe gearing for an 8.5 (LRP X11) at the Pro-Line Dirt Arena.

Track is this one (9:30 in): http://vimeo.com/8422272

Cheers,
Chris.

[DCM]

use the above dual mode setup, but not to sure on the gearing.

[burgie]

5.5 in off-road, I would not suggest you go down the route of sensored unless you really REALLY need to.


Why is that? I would have thought sensored is the way to go as it is a sensored motor?

What does running in sensored actually do then?

Sorry to ask daft questions, but I can't find the information on the web to explain what all the different settings achieve, unless you can point me in the right direction.

Many thanks

[DCM]

in dual mode, you use the motors sensor for the initial drive and pick up, the RS then switches over to sensorless, this is more efficient way of driving. If you run in Sensored, you will gain more RPM but it will also make it a lot more aggressive to

[b4pete]

Hello, any setup for a durango, with rs pro, stock spur, 7.5 V3.0 speed passion motor.

cheers

i have a hotwire

[DCM]

to be honest guys, a base setting is as I posted above, it only gets fiddly when you run in sensored only mode.

[b4pete]

5.5 in off-road, I would not suggest you go down the route of sensored unless you really REALLY need to.

Gearing, as Kev, he runs that car.

Setup, Dual mode

Timing 80
profile 3
limiter 90
neutral width 8
This one?

[DCM]

thats the one!!

[Randy p]

There are a lot of setups here also:

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/ESCsetups/index.html

[b4pete]

There isnt many for 4wd buggies on 5.5-7.5 motors tho that I can see

[carborush]

conserning the esc setup sheets :
what does "vegas" mean ? is that the upgrade for the esc firmeware ?

another question
if you run the esc in 'forward only/brake" mode as opposed to "forw/brake/reverse",
will there be any diffrence in the forward channel ?
or does it just simply remove reverse ?

[DCM]

vegas was a special version of v200, but we are now on v203, even better.

Yes, it just removes the reverse.

[Randy p]

My 6.5 setup is on there. It's a 6.5

[b4pete]

My 6.5 setup is on there. It's a 6.5
Cant see it under 4WD Off road?

[carborush]

when i use a brushed engine
the setting for brushed-forward-reverse-delay apears to be setting n5 on the esc
but the manual says it is supposed to be n6
n6 is the forward/reverse setting
it appears to be the other way around...
normal ?

[Randy p]

Which esc are you using?

[carborush]

the RS pro

[Randy p]

One reverse has a delay, one is instant reverse.

[carborush]

I know that
manual says n5 = instant reverse
n6 = reverse delay
it seems that in reality 5 = reverse delay and 6 = instant reverse

no biggy : it works anyway... , but just wanted to check...

[magnus]

For a 2wd with tekins RL 7.5 would I consider running in sensored or just stick to dual mode. Would it run cooler? there's really no problem now in dual mode just that I feel it to be a bit slow. I have the vegas 203 version. If I would use sensored, where do I start in the setup?

[DCM]

What is your current setup, esc and motor please.

[magnus]

I'm almost sure it's the one recomended for 5.5 turn. timing 80 limiter 85 I think. With the RS not pro and tekin 7.5t

[DCM]

can you gear up a little? and turn the motor physical timing down to 0' to get the acceleration back?

[magnus]

Well I guess I could. I was just interested in the sensored mode as I saw most setups on the tekin site uses that mode. Can you physically adjust the timing on the tekin motor? It looks fixed or?...:bored: It's really working fine, it's just that I wanted to know if I could make it even faster.

[DCM]

It is adjustable, three endbell screws, loosen, then turn it to increase or decrease timing, if you not touched it, you should be set at 12'

Sensored would give you a lot more RPM and make it more aggressive.

[jatkp]

This might sound like a strange question to ask but is RS Pro packaging made from blister pack - the stuff you you have to cut open? Or is it re sealable. Reason being is that I like to keep all my packaging in order in case I want to sell it on? Thanks.

[DCM]

If I remember right, it comes in a box.

[BagofSkill]

Yep, it comes in a folded plastic box as DCM says, so it is re-sealable........ wierdo! :p

[Chequered Flag Racing]

for those that don't visit other forums Trevor Coult from C.A.R.S. (http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/) has written a Beginners Guide Setup for the ESC & Hotwire (http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?p=188)

also see these downloads by Mark Brown (http://rcfaq.weebly.com/tekin-rs--hotwire.html)

[jatkp]

Yep, it comes in a folded plastic box as DCM says, so it is re-sealable........ wierdo! :p

Ah Eccellentai. Thanks Bagsofskil and DCM.:thumbsup:

[bumrar]

Ignore- question answered by a mate!

[Bungleaio]

Hi can anyone recomend settings for the RS pro and redline 6.5 in my durango, I've got the 203 software.

I think I'm running something around this:

Dual mode
Timing 80
profile 3
limiter 90
neutral width 8

Also what should the timing be on the motor? I took it apart to make sure it was clean and oiled and I can't remember what timing was set at. It was at the default setting but I can't find anywhere that states what that is.

[DCM]

default setting is 12', if you want a little more grunt, then turn it down to 0', then you can afford to gear it up just a little.

Settings are about right to be honest

[HarlowS]

In my Durango im running the below. Seems pretty good now

Drag Brake 0
Current Limiter 90
Timing 70
Neutral 20
Profile was 3, now gone to 2 as the car has more initial grunt than B44 i used to run.



Hi can anyone recomend settings for the RS pro and redline 6.5 in my durango, I've got the 203 software.

I think I'm running something around this:

Dual mode
Timing 80
profile 3
limiter 90
neutral width 8

Also what should the timing be on the motor? I took it apart to make sure it was clean and oiled and I can't remember what timing was set at. It was at the default setting but I can't find anywhere that states what that is.

[Bungleaio]

Nice one cheers guys. To be honest it felt good but was a bit lacking down the straight at worksop. I'll have a check to make sure I've got the timing right.

[discostu]

hey chaps

on sunday i had a problem with my rs pro it has previously been fault less basicly whay was hapening it would shut down momentarly then start again its definetly the esc as initaly i thought it was the spectrum but i changed that to std 40mhz and problem was still there. what would happen you would start the race and on about lap 4 it would loose all power to both throttle and steering just for a split second then it would come back on it would do this randomly from then on. imo the esc was rather warm for the amount of time on the track (2 leds) but warm to touch i know its not the motor (x12 13.5) causing the problems as once i changed the esc i set the 5th Q time and won leg 1 in the A and finished 3rd overal. has anybody got any ideas.

stu

(running SW 203 with no boost sensord mode)

[DCM]

try swapping out the cap.

2 led's is nice and cool.

[discostu]

no its not the cap cut it off still does it.

stu

[DCM]

might want to email support@teamtekin.com and they be able to help you more, I have not seen that problem myself, or even ask over on the Tekin forum.

I assume you checked all your connections?

[discostu]

yeah all connections checked im just in the proses of reloading the software to see if this cure problem it is intresting ive got it on the bench ive powerd it up its flashing led 1&2 and 6&7 which is wrong motor selected but software tells me its is correct and led in mode tell me its correct.:confused:

[Randy p]

If you're getting led's 12 67 and you're hooked it up to a known good brushless motor it may need to be serviced.

Make sure you're on MT 1.

[Lowie]

Hello all.
I have some great news ... and a question :D

good news:
A local racer, with plenty of talent, asked me some time ag, if I did not had some advice for him. He was looking for a low-cost ESC ... but with rather good specs for his stockracing.
I explained him about Tekin and a long story in short, he bought himself an RS Pro ... and recently bought a second one :D
He was positivly amazed, as was I, about the performance that the 203-version of the soft was delivering.

In the mean while, His performances .. and that of my car, have amazed more then one pilot.
Only today I overheared more then One driver saying they defenitly needed a Tekin-ESC too, for their 17.5 and 10.5-class touring racing.

I have responded to a lot of questions, showed the ESC, the setup-buttons, the Hotwire, the software on my laptop ... and it really has made a difference.


Actually, as we speak, my two RS Pro's are installed in two Tamiya TA05IFS v2-cars that me and two friends will be racing in an endurance race:
8 hour's of non-stop driving, all cars free, EFRA-body, Limited tyres-choice and obligatory Nosram 17.5-brushless motor.

We did some testing today (that's where we were astonishing the other teams :D) ... and the car went well. WIth a little fan on the motor, we had a temp of 45°C on the motor and 38°C on the ESC.

Now my question:
we drive a Tamiya TA05-car, Tekin RS Pro, Nosram 17.5 -motor, ratio of 4,5, on a rather small, bendy carpet-track, medium grip and with a One-way in stead of our usual spool because of the bendyness of the track and the fact that we don't need to use the breaks.

Could someone give advice on the setup of our ESC, so that we get an optimal ratio on speed / driving-time / less heat on the ESC.

ATM I have it on throttle Profile 3, voltage cutoff 2, sensored, delay 0.2, boost timing 45 and turbo boost 8 ...

[mikeyscott]

Tempted to try the drag brakes on the Tekin, any recommended starting points?

[DCM]

Hello all.
I have some great news ... and a question :D

good news:
A local racer, with plenty of talent, asked me some time ag, if I did not had some advice for him. He was looking for a low-cost ESC ... but with rather good specs for his stockracing.
I explained him about Tekin and a long story in short, he bought himself an RS Pro ... and recently bought a second one :D
He was positivly amazed, as was I, about the performance that the 203-version of the soft was delivering.

In the mean while, His performances .. and that of my car, have amazed more then one pilot.
Only today I overheared more then One driver saying they defenitly needed a Tekin-ESC too, for their 17.5 and 10.5-class touring racing.

I have responded to a lot of questions, showed the ESC, the setup-buttons, the Hotwire, the software on my laptop ... and it really has made a difference.


Actually, as we speak, my two RS Pro's are installed in two Tamiya TA05IFS v2-cars that me and two friends will be racing in an endurance race:
8 hour's of non-stop driving, all cars free, EFRA-body, Limited tyres-choice and obligatory Nosram 17.5-brushless motor.

We did some testing today (that's where we were astonishing the other teams :D) ... and the car went well. WIth a little fan on the motor, we had a temp of 45°C on the motor and 38°C on the ESC.

Now my question:
we drive a Tamiya TA05-car, Tekin RS Pro, Nosram 17.5 -motor, ratio of 4,5, on a rather small, bendy carpet-track, medium grip and with a One-way in stead of our usual spool because of the bendyness of the track and the fact that we don't need to use the breaks.

Could someone give advice on the setup of our ESC, so that we get an optimal ratio on speed / driving-time / less heat on the ESC.

ATM I have it on throttle Profile 3, voltage cutoff 2, sensored, delay 0.2, boost timing 45 and turbo boost 8 ...

if you want efficiency I would turn the boost down a bit and turn the Turbo up, run the End RPM about 4500 and the start at 1500 which will make it nice and smooth (drop the end RPM to liven it up).

But your about in the ball park. Also, run the front belt slightly looser than the rear on the TA05.

[DCM]

Tempted to try the drag brakes on the Tekin, any recommended starting points?

car, motor and esc setting already Mike

[mikeyscott]

car, motor and esc setting already Mike

Tekin RS Pro in both cars

Associated B4
Speed Passion 8.5
Settings if I remember correctly
dual mode
db - 0
brake 80
limit 80
timiing around 80 mark
tp -3

Schumacher Cat SX
Speed Passion 6.5
dual mode
db -0
timiing around 80 mark
tp - 3
brake 70
limit 85

Both cars using Nosram 5300 40C lipos

Will be racing at Eden Park next weekend

[DCM]

I would only run arounf 5-10% drag brake on the 2wd, none on the 4wd.

[mikeyscott]

I would only run arounf 5-10% drag brake on the 2wd, none on the 4wd.

Ok thanks, will give the 2WD a go.

[Lowie]

if you want efficiency I would turn the boost down a bit and turn the Turbo up, run the End RPM about 4500 and the start at 1500 which will make it nice and smooth (drop the end RPM to liven it up).
do I understand this correctly, as in ..
dropping end rpm will make the car have a shorter range stretched, so will calm it down ...
but with turbo up, once it will reach the end rpm, the power will kick in (when you need it at the straight.

But your about in the ball park. Also, run the front belt slightly looser than the rear on the TA05.
Why loosening the front belt?

and erm .. THX a lot DCM (any first name? :)

and as for the rest of my story: Tekin can be asured, Tekin sales will go up in the next months over here in belgium.
Only pitty is I can not find a local dealer. (My local shop, MCM racing; only has the sensorless Tekin-ESC's in it's range)

bye and thx

Ludo

[DCM]

the RPM range dictates over what RPM range that the timing boost comes in, so a shorter rev range will mean the timing advance will come in faster, so by upping the end RPM will soften the motor a little, dropping it makes it more aggressive.

The TA05 has equal length belts, and under acceleration, the rear belt takes the greater loading, so you have to run that a little tight, but the front can run a little loose.

Steve

[carborush]

is there a way to save/Load your custom settings in the rspro computer interface ?
when switching the esc to other cars and engines this could be very handy, not having to memorise each setting and having to set it manually each time around...

[DCM]

This is on the 'to do list' at Tekin, they have been spending their time perfecting the drive software on the ESC's, but I know this is in the pipeline. In the meantime, there are setup sheets in pdf format you can download and save.

[carnage]

Hi Tekin experts
I'm looking at getting a new rotor for my 17.5 redline (stock off road is big in Austraalia)
it'll be for my db01r and was wondering what the difference between the TT2272 12.5mm (stock legal) and the TT2276 12.5mm hi-torque rotors is.
which would be best for 17.5T, 4WD in Oz?
is the TT2276 going to be submitted for ROAR approval?
thanks in advance
Steve

[DCM]

I am not to sure on the difference in rotor, be better to ask that on Tekins own forum

[Randy p]

The 12.5 torque rotor will not be ROAR approved because the internal shaft diameter is not within spec. Hence the reason it will not be submitted.

It does however help with wheeler classes so check the local rules for conformance.

[carnage]

The 12.5 torque rotor will not be ROAR approved because the internal shaft diameter is not within spec. Hence the reason it will not be submitted.

It does however help with wheeler classes so check the local rules for conformance.
Thanks Randy
Tekin is Tops

[sebus]

hello i am french ,sorry for my bad english.
i would like to know what are de difference between motor wound delta or Y ?
what are the avantage or benefit for motor delta and for Y ?
thanks, seb

[DCM]

I can't remember which is which, but one produces more power for the same wind, than the other.

[Randy p]

Delta's are wound in a different manner than Wye's. If you're comparing two identical winds say 5T the delta will have more power.

Currently most sensored 1/10 motors are wye wound. In general also wye's respond to timing adjustments much better than the deltas.

[sebus]

thanks for explain ,seb

[Swiss]

I have just installed my new Tekin SC and Motors, and even bench testing can notice the smoothness of them. The Vegas software is easy to use. Top Marks Tekin! All I can say if you are in any doubt, BUY THEM!

Looking forward to getting them on the track this weekend.

P

[DCM]

Swiss, are you using V200 Vega Edition or the full V203?

[Swiss]

203 Version.

[DCM]

aye, it is sweet, plus ESC temps are down with using it!!

[Swiss]

Used my new Tekin set up in the 2wd at the weekend. Very impressed, very smooth looking forward to using in the dry.

Paul Timberlake

[InsideLineModels]

Glad you liked them Paul, you looked like you adapted well to them.... pretty good setup you were running i heard ;)

Good luck at the national this weekend with your new kit! :)

[Swiss]

Yeh, you can wish me good luck in person when I am pitting next to you in the tent :) Might show you my nice new shiny battery connectors!

[Matt_N]

Just fitted my RS Pro into my Mi4, is my set-up ok? Running a Nosram Pure Stock 13.5 with the 4 dot insert (-20 degrees) and SMC 5200mah 50C lipos. Geared 30/118, giving an FDR of 7.0799

V203 software
Drag Brake: 100
Reverse: Off
Brake strength: 75
Neutral:10
Throttle profile: 4
Push control: Off
Timing boost: 50
Turbo boost:10
Turbo delay: 1.7
Sensored mode
Start RPM: 2928
End RPM: 13500
Turbo ramp: 3.0

Track is 30x16 carpet.

Cheers
Matt

[Randy p]

You're overtimed buy quite a bit in wheeler. Try running somewhere around 40 boost. Your turbo will likley NEVER get activated with a 1.7 second delay. And to be honest , you really shouldn't need it in offroad.

Also in offroad your start and end rpm's should be more like 5k start and 22k end.

Also do you really like 100% drag brake?

[madonrc]

im waiting for my tekin rs pro to arrive which will be fitted into my Mi4LP touring car for use on tarmac with a 10.5 and 13.5 sometimes. When it arrives does it come with a disc or do i have to down load the program from the tinternet if so what program.
After its installed what would be a good starting point, setting wise and am i right in saying that due to the turbo you run the ratio higher ie instead of say 5 overall you run it at 6 for example

[BagofSkill]

Matt_N,

I'd start with less timing in the motor, I run 0deg, and maybe a bit less boost timing for safety until you get to know it otherwise you're risking a cooed motor. Maybe go up a bit on turbo, say 20, so you get a proper shove down the straight. Delay should be about 0.2 or 0.3, it needs to be set so that it doesn't kick in on the infield, just on the staright, so you want the minimum value that allows that. And get rid of the drag brake, 0%! It isn't necessary and will just add heat which will mean you can't run the drive setup as aggressive.

HTH,
Chris.

[BagofSkill]

Madon,

the hotwire come with a disk but as ever, the shipping disks for software are well behind the currently available firmware developments. You can download the latest version from the Tekin website, just look for the Vegas 203 icons.

Starting setup will depend on the circuit you're on, but I always think it's better to start conservative to avoid melting motors. Only thing is start with a turbo of 15 or more otherwise you can struggle to notice it which means you won't gear appropriately.

HTH,
Chris.

[DCM]

Download the software from Tekins site HERE (http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire/vegas/index.html)

Setup for 10.5 on Rubber tyres

Brake Strength 100
Neutral Width 8
Throttle Profile 3
Timming boost 30-40
Turbo Boost 10-20
Motor Timing 0

strongly recomend you keep total timing (motor+boost+turbo) to max 50'

if you have a tight infield, run the lower timing boost, open infield, run a higher boost.

Set esc to run in Sensored mode

Advanced settings

End RPM of 6000
Start RPM 3500-4000
Delay .2
Turbo Ramp 3

FDR about 8:1

This is a setup for a large indoor carpet track running the Redline 10.5

[madonrc]

Thanks for your replies. I will be running it at Bedworth if anyone has ever ran there system there

[Matt_N]

Matt_N,

I'd start with less timing in the motor, I run 0deg, Maybe go up a bit on turbo, say 20, so you get a proper shove down the straight. Delay should be about 0.2 or 0.3, it needs to be set so that it doesn't kick in on the infield, just on the staright, so you want the minimum value that allows that. And get rid of the drag brake, 0%!

Thanks for the help Chris :thumbsup: But I can't run any less timing on the motor, minus 20 is the lowest the Nosram pure's can go.

You're overtimed buy quite a bit in wheeler. Try running somewhere around 40 boost. Your turbo will likley NEVER get activated with a 1.7 second delay. And to be honest , you really shouldn't need it in offroad.

Also in offroad your start and end rpm's should be more like 5k start and 22k end.


Thanks also for the help Randy :thumbsup: But I'm running it in a touring car. I will turn the turbo delay down a bit then as per your recommendations. What would you recommend for the start and end rpm's?

Cheers
Matt

[DCM]

Matt, what track you running on, is it indoor/outdoor?

[Matt_N]

Indoor on carpet, 30x16. Not sure whether to use the Tekin now, just put new software on my Xerun and it feels majorly fast

Matt

[stox217]

What set up should i be looking at a hotbodies cyclone runnning 2s lipo and a gm 17.5 geared on 40/66 (outdoors bedworth) no timing on the motor (built in timimg tho)
Cheers

[DCM]

how much timing is there on the motor if it is built in?

[stox217]

30 degree's I believe

[DCM]

then if you run to much timing, your gonna cook your motor, I have not had any experience of a GM motor, so I would suggest you ask over on Tekins support forum maybe, or even look on Tekins site at their setup sheets.

[stox217]

okay cool il run less timing boost to start

[DCM]

try with none at first, and if you run good in the infield, use the Turbo only, if it lacks a little in the infield, add some boost too.

[Bungleaio]

Is the hotwire iPhone app still in testing or has it been canned now?

[DCM]

I haven't heard anything as yet.

[InsideLineModels]

Just to let you guys know, we now have RS pros and RS speedos back in stock after the last batch sold out very quickly.

We've also had a few enquiries about Hotwires; these are on their way and should be here early next week.

We also have a range of motors and accessroies in stock.

if anyone needs anything at the EPR national this weekend come and find me. :)

Cheers
Kev

[Cooper]

I'm looking for a RS setup for 2wd buggy's from a UK driver, all the setups on the website are pretty american with pussymotors.

I'm still running 1year old firmware at the moment and planning to update it this weekend before the Oople race. (SP v3 7.5 motor)
Thanks !

[InsideLineModels]

Hi Cooper,

I Have a setup for my 2wd with a 6.5 and I've used the same setup for 7.5

dual mode
BS 100% (then limit if needed on transmitter)
DB 10%
NW 8
TP 4
MT 1
LM 90%
Timing 80%

I gear my 6.5 on 24/78 (x6) and would go 2 pinions higher for a 7.5

Good luck :)

Kev

[Northy]

Any Tekin Team drivers going to the oOple Invernational? :confused:

G

[InsideLineModels]

I couldn't make this as i have a wedding to atttend, not sure about any of the others.

[Cooper]

Hi Cooper,

I Have a setup for my 2wd with a 6.5 and I've used the same setup for 7.5

dual mode
BS 100% (then limit if needed on transmitter)
DB 10%
NW 8
TP 4
MT 1
LM 90%
Timing 80%

I gear my 6.5 on 24/78 (x6) and would go 2 pinions higher for a 7.5

Good luck :)

Kev


Thanks Kev,
I hope I can translate al those letters to actual meaning words when I put a setupsheet or the software next to it.

edit: found it, thanks: what with al that boost and turbo thingies? just put them out I guess :)

[InsideLineModels]

what with al that boost and turbo thingies? just put them out I guess :)

Those functions are only active in sensored mode, make sure you are in dual mode. I think you'll only need to go to the advanced area to check or change your software version. I'm running V203... i forgot to mention that before.

[Gayo]

All Tekin users should download and closely read this :

http://rcfaq.weebly.com/uploads/1/6/4/4/1644516/using_tekin_rs_with_hotwire_v200_vegas.doc
:thumbsup:

[Cooper]

my RS can't find the 'brake' when setting it up..

what could be the problem? tried the trim already

[Northy]

Have you tried servo reversing the throttle? Some makes of speedo expect it only one way round.

G

[DCM]

my RS can't find the 'brake' when setting it up..

what could be the problem? tried the trim already

Ensure your EPA is at 100% and that you haven't got your brake turned down on your radio....

[Randy p]

If you're using a Futaba radio you must reverse the throttle channle. Also make very sure your abs is off for calibration.

[losi madness]

do 27mhz work ok on the rx8 sytem and does it work with spektrum dx2 and acoms 2.4ghz cheers

[Randy p]

Yes it should work fine with any typical surface radio system.

[Cooper]

it's the schumacher 'code' and it's on neutral for the moment, I have ATL (don't have a clue what it is) on 50%, it was like that after reset.

all the other stuff is on 100%.

will try reverse and ATL :-)

[Cooper]

fixed, why do they call it ATL, it's BRAKE

[DCM]

ATL- Adjustable Thottle Limit lol.... glad it's sorted!!

[wouldrichest]

well, let's start then :)

I do have a Tekin R1 Pro, but it is actually mounted in my onroad Tamiya 416.
In my Predator I have a MambaMax and CC 5700KV motor actually, but I was already considering a switch.

Which motor would do great in the Pred ... for driving on large dust tracks, or on grass?
Would a 6.5 BL-motor be sufficient or suted?
for grass tracks, the 362 is definately the one to go for, the 448 is a little softer, so may not be aggressive enough on the grass.

[jaank]

The guy who sold me my tekin rs pro told me that he used it on 17.5R motor and stock soft. Im going to use it with a 6,5R motor. He told me that i have to flash a new software. Do i really have to do it or can i just factory reset it?


And, where i could get a rs pro case. My rs pro case has a rs letters.
If i would like to sell it.. well, you know it yourself http://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif

[magnus]

I updated my RS to the new 2.08 version. However I still run my 7.5t in my losi xxx. Where do I start with the timing/setup and how do I gear it? I see that Randy's running a 9.5t that's probably would be suitable. I run on a dirttrack that's quite slippery with a 20m straightway.

Now that it should run ever cooler, do you think it will work in my xx4. (it's not the PRO version):cry:

[DCM]

running the non-pro in 4wd is always risky with heat and loading.

Start with using Timing Profile C1 and set

Dual Mode
Timing - 80
leave the timing bandwidth the same

And set it as we always have.

You have the option then of setting C2 to a sensored only, try Randy's setup there.

[Chequered Flag Racing]

208 is available via the Tekin website

[magnus]

It sais that Randy runs it in dual mode, is that a missprint? Well, I'll take a trip to my track and find out.

running the non-pro in 4wd is always risky with heat and loading.

Start with using Timing Profile C1 and set

Dual Mode
Timing - 80
leave the timing bandwidth the same

And set it as we always have.

You have the option then of setting C2 to a sensored only, try Randy's setup there.

[Randy p]

No, not a misprint. IT's a super smooth setup that works most of the time. Try it and if you need more of something post up and we'll help you make the right adjustments.

[Buggy Driver]

Randy,

I have upgraded my RS Pro to 208 and the car drives well so far, but since the upgrade the speedo´s LEDs are blinking now and then, like when the signal is lost or you´ve reached full brake. Just for a second, then it blinks normally for a few seconds, then completely again, normally, completely and so on. I haven´t had that with 203. I recalibrated, reinstalled and even resetted, but nothing helped. Any ideas?

And are older versions, 203 in particular, still available? I wanted to downgrade to be sure the car would work, but it wasn´t available via the new Hotwire software, just 208.

[InsideLineModels]

Is it all the lights blinking or just one? The speedo has always blinked since the first software release. It's the realtime temperature display. The more lights the hotter the speedo. When you switch it on from cold it should only have 1 light blinking every few seconds.

Hope that helps?

[DCM]

I think I have seen that issue you had had, and it doesn't cause a problem, mine cleared once I did some fiddling/playing on the hotwire.

[Buggy Driver]

No, it´s not the temperature indicator, but inbetween indicating temperature all LEDs lighting up at once.

I hope that it will just disappear, too, although I´ve already been fiddling around with the Hotwire quite a bit.

Do you know where to get older software like 203? Just in case the speedo won´t work properly with the new software. So far it´s fine, though.

[HarlowS]

I had a simialr issue with 203 and it cleared after another downgrade and upgrade. Put 208 on my speedo and also had the same issue, although it did clear after a few weeks by itself. Although i wouldnt worry too much as it didnt affect the operation of the speedo in anyway :)

[BagofSkill]

If you click on the advanced tab you can scroll trough and choose different versions (including every firmware since release)

[HarlowS]

Unless your running 208 ;)

If you click on the advanced tab you can scroll trough and choose different versions (including every firmware since release)

[InsideLineModels]

No, it´s not the temperature indicator, but inbetween indicating temperature all LEDs lighting up at once.

I hope that it will just disappear, too, although I´ve already been fiddling around with the Hotwire quite a bit.

Do you know where to get older software like 203? Just in case the speedo won´t work properly with the new software. So far it´s fine, though.

If you do want to try the older software again i have it stored somewhere i'm sure. If you email us at sales@insidelineracing.co.uk i'll send it to you.

Cheers
Kev

[HarlowS]

Who da man...... Kev's da man................... :thumbsup:

If you do want to try the older software again i have it stored somewhere i'm sure. If you email us at sales@insidelineracing.co.uk i'll send it to you.

Cheers
Kev

[SlowOne]

Tekin - Randy Pike - are strongly advising NOT to go back to 203 on a speedo that has been flashed to 208. They say it can cause the speedo to mis-behave, and the only cure is to return it to Tekin. We have been warned!!

[Randy p]

What I said was to not load 203 and 208 on the same computer. You can go back to 203 if you wanted to. The "issue" comes from making adjustments with the wrong hotwire.

208 Hotwire is NOT compatible with a 203 equipped esc, and visa versa.

[macke]

Randy,

I have upgraded my RS Pro to 208 and the car drives well so far, but since the upgrade the speedo´s LEDs are blinking now and then, like when the signal is lost or you´ve reached full brake. Just for a second, then it blinks normally for a few seconds, then completely again, normally, completely and so on. I haven´t had that with 203. I recalibrated, reinstalled and even resetted, but nothing helped. Any ideas?

And are older versions, 203 in particular, still available? I wanted to downgrade to be sure the car would work, but it wasn´t available via the new Hotwire software, just 208.
That is exactly the same problem as I'm having with the RX8 and the 208 firmware. When in neutral the LED are blinking: all - all - all - NW - all - all - all - NW and so on. When giving throttle or brake the flashing goes away, it does only appear when in neutral. Upgraded to firmware 208 from 198.

[samd]

I have a couple of questions if anyone can help

Rs pro in ddrive mode, uses motor sensors fir the first few feet, then runs sensorless, so why doesn't the team drivers run 0deg timing on the motor for max torque, I think on Randys setups he mostly has the motor on 12 deg

With motor sensors having a bit if early read, what sensorless timing setting matches motor timing setting, is timing advance 50 on sensorless mode the same as sensored 15deg on motor or 0deg?

Hope this makes sense

Sam

[DCM]

DOH.... senial moment

[losi madness]

is that the same for bashing ? with the rx8 sytem 2250kv

[samd]

Thanks for the answer , I think I need to reword the question.

I'm only referring to duel drive mode

If the motor sensors are only used for a couple of feet from standing, then disregarded why isn't 0deg motor timing used for max torque from a standing start as this timing setting isn't used at any other speed?

A setting of 50 sensorless timing is 15deg, is this exactly the same as 15deg on the motors sensors (redline) or is there a slight difference , ie do you need to have a higher or lower setting for sensorless timing to get the same advance as the equivalent sensored setting

Hope this makes more sense!!

Ta sam

[DCM]

And another

[Buggy Driver]

Hotwire and speedo are both equipped with the lastest software.
Done a complete race now: even though it´s still blinking randomly, no problems occured, just as DCM had presumed.

So, it seems there´s no need to go back to 203, as the temperature was lower and brakes just plain better with 208. But thanks Kev, I´ll drop you a line if the old software is needed nevertheless.

Randy,

I had a different problem recently: during a race the car stopped a few times and just sounded bad. In the next moment it went on without a problem. Some other driver told me it could be the sensor wire came undone just a little bit, as this had happened to him before, although with no Tekin. The next race the car drove fine again, but a few days ago it had some heavy hesitation from a standstill. After changing the motor I saw that one single lead of the sensor wire had come loose. Changed the cable and it was fine again.

So, the RS can drive with and without a sensor wire, but it seems that it can get problems when the cable isn´t completely off, like just one single lead off.
Maybe this is something which could be looked into, that the RS handles an even just slightly faulty sensor wire like it´s completely off to avoid being unable to drive on. Actually, my motor was strangely cooked when it had these heavy starting problems with the faulty cable (the speedo remained cool).

[samd]

OK, right, whatever you set the motor to, the RS uses it to read the initial drive (sensored), when it then cuts over to sensorless, as you already have a pred-determined timing, then whatever you add on in sensorless, is added on to the motor timing.

So, if you set
Motor 12'
RS 50% (+15')

then at max throttle, you will have motor + RS, so 12 + 15' = 27' total.

Are you sure about this??

[DCM]

I am just checking with an engineer, if it isn't, then it is old age affecting my brain

[DCM]

I had it wrong, the motor timing is irrelevant when the RS switches from Sensored to Sensorless in Dual Drive mode.

[samd]

Thanks for checking pal, didnt think it sounded right.

[DCM]

I have emailed the man who designed it to confirm, and will post up his reply here..... Think the paint fumes are eating away my little grey cells. Saying that, I am sure there isn't a 'definite' zero, like a set point, I believe the point does move. But will let you know what the boss says.

[Randy p]

The deal with dual mode is that we get out of the sensored portion so quickly the timing is negated for the most part. I list mine at 12 since it's where the motors are defaulted out of the box.

In dual mode motor timing is NOT part of the equation. 50 in dual mode is 15 degrees,period.

DCM, wear a mask! LOL

[samd]

Thanks guys!

[DCM]

DCM, wear a mask! LOL

Randy, I am not THAT ugly :thumbsup: close though!!!

[andygray]

Hi Randy,

I have a strange intermittent problem with my Tekin RX8 speed controller. Occasionally (usually after a lot of high speeds) the controller seems to crash or something. It often happens whilst I am full on the throttle, which is not a good time to lose control of your car. When this happens, all power to the servo and radio receiver is cut/lost. Also, all the lights flash rapidly on the rx8 speed controller. It will remain like this for about 20 or 30 seconds, and then come back to life. If I start driving straight away, it will often cut out again within the next 5-30 seconds or so. But usually if I leave it for a few minutes, it will be fine for good after that.

Someone from Tekin told me that the rx8 speed controllers flash all the lights when they lose connectivity between the esc and radio. So, this is obvious because all power to the radio has been cut. The question is why? Can you think of anything in the esc that would cause it to stop powering the radio?

At first, I thought it might be the thermal cutout, since I was racing it at a track and the esc fan had lost a few blades, but I've now replaced the fan, and it still does this cutout, even when the esc is running cool.

I've got a lipo battery tester/meter on the battery testing for any dead cells, and there are none on the battery, they are all good. When the esc seems to lose power to the radio like this, the lipo battery meter doesn't show any problems with the battery.

Oh, by the way the radio is a Spektrum DX2S with an SR33001 receiver, which also has a thermal probe going to the motor which tells me on the transmitter the motor temperature. It is about 2 months old.

Any ideas as to what might be going on?

Any ideas on some tests I could do?

Thanks.

- Andy

[DCM]

If you are losing the receiver, it is possible that the receiver is shutting down/failsafe?

[HarlowS]

I had a similar problem with an RS Pro, after swapping nearly everything it was found to be the Spektrum module in my KO. I had 2 different sets do this on me so i went back to 40mhz and all has been fine since.

Im not saying that this is your problem but certainly worth keeping in mind as you try everything in the car itself.

[Randy p]

I agree with where the guys are going. I'd wager it's the spektrum system. IF we're still showing all led's flashing than we're not getting a signal, the rx will still have power.

We run power caps in our receivers to help prevent THIS exact issue. Spektrum even makes one of their own. Try this first.

How many servos are you using? Which ones? What type of car is this in? Battery you're using?

[madonrc]

purchased a tekin RS pro. Good no probs, fast, doing well with it, won a chamionship, all though found the brakes weak. Updated to the new system 2008 from 2003. Not as fast as the changes were not explained in english, only in computer , technical terms. Tried to go back to 2003 find the option had gone . Not happy. Found someone who had the 2003 system on there computer so went back to it. All happy again. Went to race on a Wed evening turned it on Nothing. No lights, but power was going through it as the servo was working. Boxed it up sent it off to the shop where i purchased it. 4/5 day pass by nothing. So i call them to find out they had not checked there mail box. 2 days later i phone back again to be told that they do not know what to do as RC disco have not sorted out with tekin the return policy and if i pay £15 they would replace it. But it would take a week. If not the shop would return it to me , i would then post it to USA (tekin) and have to wait for a answer. WHAT A JOKE. nearly 2 week's to get no where with a championship round on Sunday with no ESC. I feel we are being ripped off with stupid prices, ie almost £200 (when they must cost peanuts to make because when a new product comes out they almost half the price of a old product) and then not getting the support. This is not just a moan at Tekin its most distributors. The best service i have had is from schumacher. why can't they all be like that.

why dont rcdisco know what to do ??????

[andygray]

Hi guys. Hmm, yes, I'm starting to think the receiver also. But that is so strange.

As I say, it's a spektrum DX2S receiver, but I don't know of any protection cut-outs that the receiver coudl have that would cause it to shutdown.

The car is a HPI Vorza Flux, I am only using 1 servo, a HPI SF-5 which is stock in the vorza. Yes, more I think about it the more I suspect the receiver.

Well, off to Spektrum to see if they can help me I guess.

- Andy

[DCM]

purchased a tekin RS pro. Good no probs, fast, doing well with it, won a chamionship, all though found the brakes weak. Updated to the new system 2008 from 2003. Not as fast as the changes were not explained in english, only in computer , technical terms. Tried to go back to 2003 find the option had gone . Not happy. Found someone who had the 2003 system on there computer so went back to it. All happy again. Went to race on a Wed evening turned it on Nothing. No lights, but power was going through it as the servo was working. Boxed it up sent it off to the shop where i purchased it. 4/5 day pass by nothing. So i call them to find out they had not checked there mail box. 2 days later i phone back again to be told that they do not know what to do as RC disco have not sorted out with tekin the return policy and if i pay £15 they would replace it. But it would take a week. If not the shop would return it to me , i would then post it to USA (tekin) and have to wait for a answer. WHAT A JOKE. nearly 2 week's to get no where with a championship round on Sunday with no ESC. I feel we are being ripped off with stupid prices, ie almost £200 (when they must cost peanuts to make because when a new product comes out they almost half the price of a old product) and then not getting the support. This is not just a moan at Tekin its most distributors. The best service i have had is from schumacher. why can't they all be like that.

why dont rcdisco know what to do ??????

Right, lets deal with a few things here...

RCDisco have not long started distributing Tekin products, so it will take time to work out faults etc.

If you ever have a serious issue with a Tekin product, your first port of call should be the Tekin Site (www.teamtekin.com), then their forum, and if you still can't find the answer, you email support[at]teamtekin[dot]com

Re the firmware update, I am not sure if going back from 208 to 203 is advisable. It sounds like you have had an issue with back stepping the firmware, I would suggest that you go back to v208, do a factory reset, then recalibrate the esc to your radio (ensuring that you have your brakes and throttle epa set to 100%). Then the starting point for your esc setup should be exactly the same as v203.

As for cost, these are not cheap items to design or build, and to be fair, ESC prices haven't actually risen much in monetary terms over the past 20 years, a good esc in the early 90's was still £150 and they were not a patch on what we have now.

[DCM]

Hi guys. Hmm, yes, I'm starting to think the receiver also. But that is so strange.

As I say, it's a spektrum DX2S receiver, but I don't know of any protection cut-outs that the receiver coudl have that would cause it to shutdown.

The car is a HPI Vorza Flux, I am only using 1 servo, a HPI SF-5 which is stock in the vorza. Yes, more I think about it the more I suspect the receiver.

Well, off to Spektrum to see if they can help me I guess.

- Andy

Whats your exact setup?

Spektrum is very sensitive to voltage.

[andygray]

Oh, by the way, does the RX8 have a linear or switching BEC?

[DCM]

I have no idea....

[Randy p]

Switching.

[Randy p]

purchased a tekin RS pro. Good no probs, fast, doing well with it, won a chamionship, all though found the brakes weak. Updated to the new system 2008 from 2003. Not as fast as the changes were not explained in english, only in computer , technical terms. Tried to go back to 2003 find the option had gone . Not happy. Found someone who had the 2003 system on there computer so went back to it. All happy again. Went to race on a Wed evening turned it on Nothing. No lights, but power was going through it as the servo was working. Boxed it up sent it off to the shop where i purchased it. 4/5 day pass by nothing. So i call them to find out they had not checked there mail box. 2 days later i phone back again to be told that they do not know what to do as RC disco have not sorted out with tekin the return policy and if i pay £15 they would replace it. But it would take a week. If not the shop would return it to me , i would then post it to USA (tekin) and have to wait for a answer. WHAT A JOKE. nearly 2 week's to get no where with a championship round on Sunday with no ESC. I feel we are being ripped off with stupid prices, ie almost £200 (when they must cost peanuts to make because when a new product comes out they almost half the price of a old product) and then not getting the support. This is not just a moan at Tekin its most distributors. The best service i have had is from schumacher. why can't they all be like that.

why dont rcdisco know what to do ??????

Your unit is likely fine. You cannot make adjustments with a 203 hotwire to a speedo with 208 installed. You simply need to "update" the esc with 203 software and it should come back to life.

This is why we take all the old software away from you, to help prevent this issue.

[Randy p]

Randy,

I had a different problem recently: during a race the car stopped a few times and just sounded bad. In the next moment it went on without a problem. Some other driver told me it could be the sensor wire came undone just a little bit, as this had happened to him before, although with no Tekin. The next race the car drove fine again, but a few days ago it had some heavy hesitation from a standstill. After changing the motor I saw that one single lead of the sensor wire had come loose. Changed the cable and it was fine again.

So, the RS can drive with and without a sensor wire, but it seems that it can get problems when the cable isn´t completely off, like just one single lead off.
Maybe this is something which could be looked into, that the RS handles an even just slightly faulty sensor wire like it´s completely off to avoid being unable to drive on. Actually, my motor was strangely cooked when it had these heavy starting problems with the faulty cable (the speedo remained cool).

It would depend on the which wire. We can run without a sensor lead. But we will ALWAYS try to use sensors if we can. So you most likely got stuttering because we were trying to use them because we say 2 out of 3 for example.

[samd]

This is with the latest 208 Vegas


Can anyone tell me what sensorless timing setting the rs will use if set on TP 1-5 without a sensor cable?

[andygray]

Whats your exact setup?

Spektrum is very sensitive to voltage.

My exact setup is:
HPI Vorza Flux
Tekin RX8 Speedy
Spektrum SR3300T receiver
Spektrum DX2S controller
2200kv brushless motor (the stock one that comes with the vorza)
1 servo: HPI SF-5 high torque metal gear servo
Battery: Vemon Li-POWER series 18.5v 3800mah 5s1p 35C hardcase battery pack with Deans connector

I have had a battery tester plugged in at the time that the receiver cut out and the battery was fine. Each cell had plenty of volts (eg 3.8 volts), and were within 0.05 volts of each other.

It would be interesting to see what voltage was coming down the line between the esc and receiver, but that's a little harder to do.

Any other ideas?

Thanks for the thoughts so far! no response from Spektrum as of yet....

- Andy

[DCM]

I would still say it is a Spektrum issue rather than an ESC issue. You need to run their power cap in one of the spare receiver slots.

If the receiver gets a voltage spike or drop, then it shuts down.

[DCM]

This is with the latest 208 Vegas


Can anyone tell me what sensorless timing setting the rs will use if set on TP 1-5 without a sensor cable?

email Randy for a quicker answer on that one.

[Randy p]

This is with the latest 208 Vegas


Can anyone tell me what sensorless timing setting the rs will use if set on TP 1-5 without a sensor cable?

80 is the default setting, 24 degrees of timing.

[samd]

Cheers

[andygray]

I would still say it is a Spektrum issue rather than an ESC issue. You need to run their power cap in one of the spare receiver slots.

If the receiver gets a voltage spike or drop, then it shuts down.

Hmm, I think you are right. I have talked to Spektrum, and also to the guys at my LHS and they suspect something similar. I am arranging to get one installed as soon as I get my RX8 controller back from Tekin.

Thanks for the great advice!

- Andy

[andygray]

My RX8 esc has just died on the weekend :-( I am sending it to Tekin support under warranty (RA #11352), so hopefully they will repair/replace the unit.

Apparently, some older RX8 models had a flaw in the casing that caused the control boards to sometimes flex which in turn can cause failures such as the receiver losing power, and possible also failures like what has just happened to me where the entire ESC just plain died.

Randy, thanks for making your support great, and for monitoring this forum. Hopefully I'll get the RX8 controller back quickly so I can use my car again :-)

- Andy Gray
(from Australia)

[Randy p]

We'll take care of it Andy. We're on top of our service as always. Sorry to hear about your issue.

[offroadrc]

Why should i buy a tekin rx8 and not the MMM or ezrun?

i need a new esc and this time i want the quarantie that i have a good one.

[HarlowS]

You should buy a Tekin because you want race proven design, designed and tested updateable firmware, excellent support, a speedo that doesnt fry when it gets hot !!!! and finally to be ahead of the rest :D

Or you could buy one of the other brands and regret it, then end up buying a Tekin when yours fails. ;)

Why should i buy a tekin rx8 and not the MMM or ezrun?

i need a new esc and this time i want the quarantie that i have a good one.

[offroadrc]

You should buy a Tekin because you want race proven design, designed and tested updateable firmware, excellent support, a speedo that doesnt fry when it gets hot !!!! and finally to be ahead of the rest :D

Or you could buy one of the other brands and regret it, then end up buying a Tekin when yours fails. ;)


i allready had everything, novak, mgmcompro, mmm, ezrun, hobbyking 150.
now i realy want a good system that won't let me down.

[HarlowS]

...... now if you had only tried Tekin first....... :D

[discostu]

hey chaps

can anybody tell me where do i send my rs pro to be repaired in the uk.

stu rand

[DCM]

RC Disco is the distributor in the UK, I am not sure if they have a repair facility as yet though, contact them is best http://www.rcdisco.com/contact.php

[samd]

Hi I have a strange problem with the RS and sensorless motors.
Using Vegas 208, running a sensorless tekin redline I have zero brakes and I mean zero
I have done all the usual, reset speedo, checked end points etc, all with no luck.

In a final desperate attempt I thought it could be something to do with the totaly sensorless running, so I plugged in a sensored motor into the sensor slot, with the sensorless motor still wired into the car, turned on the rs, waited for the confirmation beep and unplugged the sensor harness. I have not reved the car, which has the sensorless motor in, or moved the rotor in the sensored motor before unplugging the sensor cable.
Now the car has loads of brakes

Turn off the rs and on again, no brakes, tried the above again, brakes work

Is this a 208 issue? Does the rs need to see a sensor for the brakes to work sensorless after?

I tried these with the sensored motor in and the same thing happens. If I turn on the rs with the sensor cable unplugged I have no brakes

Can someone else running 208 with a couple of minutes to spare just unplug their sensor cable, turn the rs on and see if the brakes work?

Thanks Sam

[DCM]

Sam, could you email this direct to Tekin (support[at]teamtekin[dot]com) as I have never seen this.

[DCM]

Yes I get the same, tried it on a 13.5 on v208.

[discostu]

RC Disco is the distributor in the UK, I am not sure if they have a repair facility as yet though, contact them is best http://www.rcdisco.com/contact.php


yeah thats what i thought i emailed them with my queery and no reply not even a reply saying we dont do that.:thumbdown::thumbdown:

[samd]

Yes I get the same, tried it on a 13.5 on v208.

Thanks for trying it DCM, ive run sensorless motors on my old rs, i think i was on 1.98? no problems then

At least i know i dont have a duff speedo, i will send them an email.

Do you know if i can downgrade my rs to a lower firmware version, i have read this can bust the rs once upgraded to 208, but im not sure:confused:

Thanks for the help :D

[DCM]

if you email Tekins support, they even have a live 'help' chat facility now on their website, go through that. If you bought it in the UK, you may wish to phone RC Disco direct?

[DCM]

Thanks for trying it DCM, ive run sensorless motors on my old rs, i think i was on 1.98? no problems then

At least i know i dont have a duff speedo, i will send them an email.

Do you know if i can downgrade my rs to a lower firmware version, i have read this can bust the rs once upgraded to 208, but im not sure:confused:

Thanks for the help :D

you have to reinstall v203 hotwire on your computer, but you can't downgrade with the hotwire having v208 on it. It is a pain, but there are big differences in the way the RS is controlled on each hotwire.

[discostu]

if you email Tekins support, they even have a live 'help' chat facility now on their website, go through that. If you bought it in the UK, you may wish to phone RC Disco direct?


i bought it second hand when they first came out it well out of warrenty just wanna get it fixed without it costing a fortune.

[DCM]

then you need to contact Tekin direct, get a repair number, and send it in, it isn't expensive sending it over.

[Randy p]

If you have no brakes in 208 you've either got your brake strength down or 0. Or you likely didn't get a proper radio/esc calibration.

When full brakes are applied ALL led's must be lit AND flashing!

[samd]

Randy, please read my above post re what is happening, if the rs with 208 is turned on without a sensor cable connected it has no brakes, with a sensor cable connected it has full brakes.
Brakes are set at 100% on esc and transmitter, full brake lights showing on the rs.
The only way I can get brakes to work with a sensorless motor is to turn the rs on with a sensored motor plugged into the sensor port then remove it after the rs has made it's confirmation beep.
Please try this on your own rs with 208, remove the sensor cable, turn it on, do you have brakes?

When I say no brakes I mean zero brakes not just weak brakes

[HarlowS]

Just out of interest have you tried re calibrating without the sensor lead in and the sensorless motor wired up ??? Just plucking at straws as i have never heard of this either.

[samd]

I recalibrated twice, I think once with the sensorless only and once with the sensored just in the sensor port, I will try again tonight to make sure. Are you running an rs/208? Care to try turning yours on with the sensor cable unplugged and see if your brakes work?

Thanks sam

[HarlowS]

will have a try later for you

[samd]

Thanks pal

[lgbzone]

Hi

I'm looking for a system to power my 1/8 rallyX buggy, i race on large outdoor tracks and very rarely bash if at all, i'm looking to replace a couple of castle MMM 2200 systems.

A bit of background info; my gearing is 15 pinion and 48 spur, i essentially use 6S batteries, primarily because i have lots of matched 3S batteries, i do have a couple of 2S to make 4S but they just don't have the top end speed i need. i know it's bad practice but my current setup with 6S is too fast (top speed), so i limit the throttle travel on the transmitter, and also apply some 'punch control' in the MMM esc to control the power.

What i want to do is re-asses the situation and get a good setup going forwards, i'd like to use tekin RX8 and motors with appropriate batteries, my current thinking is; RX8 with 1900 motor and 5S batteries, i think when compared to my current setup this would lower the top speed slightly, so i limit the throttle less, and probably lower the power slightly so i don't need too much punch control equivalent, however i'm hoping this would still be a really powerful system, but more controllable. I'd rather have too much speed/power than not enough, i'd really appreciate some thoughts on this.

Questions;
1. Which would be the best racing motor for a 1/8 buggy, but still have have jaw dropping speed and power if desired.
2. Where can i get the tekin systems from in the uk, i know rcdisco are the importers but they don't have them in stock.
3. Why does the RX8 only have a 4 month warranty, the normal for items is 12 months, so if i built something i would want to warranty it for 12 months at least. i would only lower the warranty if i thought my product was incapable of lasting 12 months, this makes me think that tekin don't have a lot of faith in their product.

Many thanks
Lee

[DCM]

Hi Lee, Fusionhobbies may have some, and all Tekin products only have a 120 day warranty. If you check out the Team Setups page at Tekins website, they should show what motors they are using with different LiPo setups.

[lgbzone]

Thanks DCM for the reply, I'll check the websites out.

Lee

[Randy p]

Standard warranty on most eletronics is 120 days. That being said we stand behind all of our products.

For running 6s the 1400 motor is the right motor for the application. Speed will likely only be limited to gearing and room.

[lgbzone]

Thanks guys.

DCM; i looked at the setup sheets but it doesn't really give me the info i'm after, gives info on setting the esc when using a battery/motor combo, but i'm trying to decide which motor. but thanks it's a good resource.

Randy; which motor would be best for 5S and which for 4S, i have seen the chart on the website, but would appreciate some real world feedback from a user, i can see by the setup sheets, you have pretty much used every motor in the range. also if you could only have one motor, which would you choose? and which voltage of batteries would you use with it (large outdoor tracks).

Which voltage is best to run from an electrical point of view, i.e. efficiency, temperature etc. i've read conflicting reports on the internet whereby some say using 6S generates less heat than 4S and vice versa.

Many thanks

[Randy p]

In general I suggest 1900 for 4s and 1700 for 5s. I have been running 1700 on 4s in a buggy though and feel it's more than enough for 90% of tracks...

[TrevCoult]

My Beginners guide to using the RS with Vegas 208

http://www.carsrcracing.co.uk/?p=244

12th scale based but explains all the functions so it should hopefully be useful to everyone running an RS.

Trev

[gaffer]

Hi hope someone can help me please, just got a rs pro second hande from on this forum and on the second night of using it at a club meet indoors the brakes have stopped working. The speedo lights up as it should, used hotwire to check settings all ok, changed sensor wire still the same. Any advice please.

Cheers

[Randy p]

If you see the led's ramp up while braking something is off either in the esc or radio calibration.

When brakes are on fully ALL led's will light up and flash!

Perorm a radio calibration, recheck.

[gaffer]

Hi Randy thanks for the reply, done the calibration with trany, all lights light up but no stoppage. Gutted.

Whats the next stage?

Cheers

stuart

[Randy p]

My first thought is that your brake strength is turned down/off. What software is in the speedo?

During full brake all led's must LIGHT UP AND FLASH. Do yours flash?

[DCM]

Hi Randy thanks for the reply, done the calibration with trany, all lights light up but no stoppage. Gutted.

Whats the next stage?

Cheers

stuart

Post your complete Hotwire setup, including software version and your radio EPA to please.

[gaffer]

Hi Randy and DCM thanks for the reply.

1st of all yes the lights all light up and flash under braking.

Settings on hotwire

brushless forward only with brake
voltage cutoff 2s
drive mode dual drive version 208
motor direction normal
throttle profile 3
current limit off
drag brake 3
brake strength 100
rev speed 100
neutral width minimum
push control off

epa all set to 100%

Hope this helps and cheers for the help. Not that clever when it comes to electrics so be gentle.

Stuart

[Randy p]

Make VERY sure your ABS is turned off. If it is please "reset" the model in the radio you're using. I've seen Futaba's lose brake function and this will cure it.